MORGAN STANLEY V. LVMH/2 BARNEYS in BLACK/2 Women’Swwd Wear Daily • the Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • March 4, 2003 Vol

ROUND 2: MORGAN STANLEY V. LVMH/2 BARNEYS IN BLACK/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • March 4, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 44 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Go Gently MILAN — There’s plenty to be said for pretty, graceful clothes, and Giorgio Armani stated it eloquently in the notably feminine fall collection that he showed on Monday. The focus was on short lengths, in the form of minis and shorts, along with abbreviated jackets, and a palette that ran to black, white and gray. Here, his little fluted skirt, soft camisole and bold coat. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 7.

Pinching Pennies: Designer Runways Take Budget Route

By Robert Murphy PARIS — If you end up sitting on a raw wooden bench during the European shows, it could be an artistic statement by the designer -- or more likely it’s a sign of the times. It’s chic to be fashionably frugal these days. As the international fashion pack winds down their stay in the gray of Milan and continues the Continental fashion season in Paris, stories abound about cutting back on fashion IANNONI

G spectacles that can easily run NNI A See The Big, Page12 IOV G

Y B PHOTO 2 2003 4, LVMH, Morgan Stanley Spar in Court WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Robert Murphy before they present a defense. there was no obligation on Represented in Paris by the Morgan Stanley to file its de- MARCH

, PARIS — The second install- law firm Gide Loyrette Nouel, fense today.” GENERAL ment of the courtroom battle Morgan Stanley requested She added, “The court agreed Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Ferré and Ferragamo were among the top collections here pitting luxury giant LVMH LVMH be required to produce today that Morgan Stanley’s ap- 4 as Milan runways cruised on. against American investment evidence that the bank suspect- plication should be heard.” It’s chic to be fashionably frugal. While fashion spectacles still can run over TUESDAY , bank Morgan Stanley ended ed LVMH has sheltered from the A source familiar with the 1 $500,000, the days of extravagant spending are more or less on the wane. D Monday in procedural bickering court. It also requested that case said LVMH was concealing W as each party blamed the other LVMH be forced to explain the its hand and hoping to lead the LVMH and Morgan Stanley ended their court day Monday in procedural W of tactical posturing. relevance to the case of docu- bank into a legal minefield. 2 bickering as each party blamed the other of tactical posturing. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis ments on a 1,900-page CD-ROM. The source cited three recent Barneys New York reported estimated results for the fiscal year ended Feb. Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury Paris’ Jeantet Associes law articles in the French press in 1 showed improvement in both the top and bottom lines. group, launched its $100 million firm represents LVMH. which LVMH sources hinted the 2 bias and conflict of interest suit When the meeting recessed, group possessed undisclosed ev- EYE: Finding one’s place…A “Pick Up” for the fashion crowd…Call him against Morgan Stanley last year. the wrangling moved outside idence to bolster its case. 9 Karl the Piano Man…Who wants to live forever? In it, LVMH assembled 41 the courtroom, as the legal “Morgan Stanley can’t defend Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 pieces of evidence it claims will teams convened impromptu itself if LVMH doesn’t play its To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is prove the bank’s chief luxury ana- press briefings. cards straight,” said the source. lyst, Claire Kent, intentionally un- “Morgan Stanley is throwing “It has to know what it’s up [email protected], using the individual's name. derrated LVMH stock to make its up smoke screens,” complained against.” SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. arch rival Gucci, which is advised Georges Terrier, LVMH’s chief The source likened LVMH’s All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; by the bank, appear attractive. legal counsel. “They’re nitpick- 1,900-page CD-ROM to the outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. The battle began in Paris’ ing over procedure without ad- equivalent of a mind-boggling Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional commercial court in January as dressing the core of the case. It maze with little relevance to the Friday issue in February, April, May, June, August, September, October and December, and one Saturday edition in evidence and other documents shows they’re in a weak posi- case. The source added that the January, April, August and November, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. were exchanged in a brief ses- tion. They are buying time.” documents had perplexed WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. sion. A judge had set Monday as A Morgan Stanley spokes- Morgan Stanley’s lawyers. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, the date for Morgan Stanley to woman countered by saying that, Meanwhile, LVMH responded including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 respond to the allegations. “Today’s hearing was one of a to Morgan Stanley’s demand for Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. But, in an equally expedient, number of procedural hearings. further explanation and evi- Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 closed-door session, Morgan There was no mention by the dence in a short document it Printed in the U.S.A. Stanley’s lawyer’s asked that two court of the defense. Despite handed the bank’s legal team two All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. procedural aspects be addressed LVMH’s claim to the contrary, Continued on page 8 For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com Barneys Looking Better in Tough Times In Brief By David Moin Total sales of $383 million, A CHALLENGING DISCUSSION: The Council of Fashion versus $371.2 million in 2001. Designers of America and Gen Art are teaming up to host their NEW YORK — Barneys New While some of the gains were first panel discussion on March 25, called “The Future of Fashion: York may be in a quiet period to be expected in light of the A Panel Discussion on the Challenges Facing Young Designers due to a $90 million private sharp declines right after the Today.” The panel, which includes designers Narciso Rodriguez placement for senior secured terrorist attacks on Sept. 11, and Rebecca Taylor, attorney Elizabeth Pearce, Julie Gilhart from notes, but the store actually has 2001, Barneys has been cutting Barneys New York and Vogue’s Sally Singer, will be moderated by something to crow about. costs, watching expenses and Bridget Foley, vice president and executive editor of W and WWD. On Monday, the luxury spe- renovating much of its selling The event will take place at the Graduate Center of the City cialty chain reported estimated space to increase productivity University of New York at 365 Fifth Avenue at 7 p.m. results for the fiscal year ended in best-selling, higher-margin Feb. 1 showing improvement in categories, such as shoes, acces- LIZ TEAMS WITH LIFETIME: In partnership with Lifetime TV’s both the top and bottom lines, sories, private label and con- annual campaign to stop violence against women, being held this despite plummeting consumer temporary sportswear. It’s also week, Liz Claiborne Inc. has created a specially designed scarf and confidence and the harsh envi- been managing inventories bet- tie being delivered to political leaders and advocates, including all ronment throughout retailing. ter, and last year negotiated members of Congress, through Friday. During this week, Liz Among the highlights in the more favorable rents. Claiborne is encouraging these influentials to wear the scarf or tie preliminary report: The yearend results were as a symbol of unity of men and women working together to stop vi- Net income of $7.5 million, contained in documents filed olence against women. Paul Charron, chairman and chief execu- compared with a $15.2 million with the Securities and tive officer of Claiborne, is set to attend a White House roundtable loss the year before. Exchange Commission due to Barneys’ chairman and ceo Howard session Wednesday to discuss the issue of violence against women. Operating earnings dou- the private placement. Final au- Socol is leading the store’s rebound. bled to $29.7 million, from $14.5 dited figures should be released HARTMARX DATE SET: Hartmarx Corp. expects to file its an- million the year before. in about four or five weeks. cupancy costs, came to $154.3 nual report within two weeks, as required by federal regulatory Comparable-store sales Selling, general and adminis- million last year. Cash on hand security rules. The company said last month it would delay filing gains of 2.9 percent. trative expenses, including oc- came to $4.5 million. The com- its report for the year ended Nov. 30 because of accounting irreg- pany also showed capital expen- ularities in its women’s wholesale operating unit, International ditures of $11.4 million, involv- Women’s Apparel. IWA, which represents 4 percent of the coming renovations. Interest and fi- pany’s consolidated sales, accounts for 50 percent of the firm’s nancing, net of interest income, women’s apparel group. Its women’s business includes Austin came to $11.2 million. Reed and Barrie Pace. The company still expects positive pretax Funds from the private place- earnings for 2002 before a $4.2 million pretax charge associated ment, in the form of $90 million in with the refinancing of high-cost debt. senior notes due 2008, will be used to cover debt, roughly $75 POLO’S DONE DEAL: Polo Ralph Lauren on Friday completed million that comes due in 2004, as a series of transactions that increases its direct management of TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. well as deferred lease obligations. its Japanese business. For $70 million, funded through Polo’s TIGER TRIMMING, INC. Barneys officials were not available cash, Polo now holds a 50 percent interest in its 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 able to comment on the results Japanese master licenses and an 18 percent equity interest in (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 due to the private placement, yet the company that holds the sublicenses for Polo’s men’s, the positive results should help women’s and Polo Jeans businesses in Japan. The transactions email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com Continued on page 10 are expected to be accretive to earnings in fiscal 2004.

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2003 Giorgio Armani Giorgio Fendi Fendi 4, Armani MARCH , TUESDAY WWD,

Fendi Fendi

Giorgio Armani Grace Notes, Titian Shin Giorgio Armani: Call him Gentle Giorgio…because the cable. And if some overwrought patterned hose got a girlish passion and style? fall collection Giorgio Armani showed on Monday was tad distracting, the clothes still looked good. Armani Lagerfeld called the Fendi collection he showed on a soft, easy affair, minus the celebrity bells and went to town with short, shapely jackets in everything Monday “Neo-Renaissance.” He said after the show whistles that so often reverberate at his shows. Rather from lace to tweeds, and put them with those runway- that he had been inspired by armor, “but made than his typical high-wattage lineup that fills an entire only shorts and countless real-life skirts. weightless” for modernity, and by the rich colors of front-row section, this time the star power was In Armani’s hands, of course, feminine would never Titian paintings with shine, shine, shine. Nevertheless, delivered lightly, as Kevin Kline and Rebecca Romijn- cross the line over to prissy. Thus, he worked mostly in the collection had at least one bi-color, thigh-high boot Stamos kept relative low profiles, at least until she hit black, white and grays. And he kept patterns strong, not planted firmly in that cartoon world of Sixties’ Space the runway to close the show. only in graphic stripes, but in white-on-black florals Age — a connection Lagerfeld managed to make minus If the notion of a celebrity stroll seems odd to that took on a bravura when enlarged and abstracted. the Hanna-Barbera effect. At least most of the time. audience veterans, Romijn-Stamos’ made a certain At night, Armani steered clear of the lavishness that As for the sainted Joan — Renaissance, Middle Ages point, done up as she was in frothy curls atop her is his hallmark. Instead, he maintained his short motif, — potato, potahto! This is fashion, not a history test. Armani dazzle, because this was one of the most focusing on lovely, sturdy laces in dresses and separates Lagerfeld translated armor motifs into strong, graceful feminine collections the designer has ever done. If his that looked almost casual. And he worked in an au graphics that he wove throughout the collection, program notes overstated reality when claiming that courant “Chicago” shimmy dress or two. But then, no distinguishing his take on the omnipresent Sixties’ here, “fashion assumes a new form and shape,” Armani one seizes the Hollywood moment like Armani. theme. His dresses — schoolgirl-crisp shapes cut lean did indeed come down firmly on the side of graceful, and short, detailed with those armor-like insets and pretty clothes. As at Emporio Armani, he focused on the Fendi: What do Barbarella and Joan of Arc have in streeted-up with bold, colorful zippers. But only a legs, with lots of shorts and his version of mini, a length common? Each was instructed by a higher being to schoolgirl with a naughty streak would dare step out in that by current standards is quite polite — too short for save the world as she knew it, and each got suited in those dangerous boots. Lagerfeld loves them with almost most of his clients to wear, but proper enough to ward some pretty nifty togs while on assignment. What more everything; so much, in fact, that they inspired a whole off eye rolling should they catch the fashion show on would Karl Lagerfeld need to link two such icons of new take on the three-piece suit: a jacket, HotPants and

ACHARD DELPHINE AND MAESTRI VIDE DA IANNONI, G NNI A IOV G Y B 5 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 PHOTOS , .” . Chirac and ) was slated Pat Cleveland Another major Martin Margiela Jacques Amanda Harlech Kevin Kline Anna Van Ravenstein Anna Van , who splashed in the Natalia Vodianova Rebecca Romijn– Stamos on the catwalk relieved to be back in her street who clothes. Her proud mother, stood up to watch her every step, The 13-year-old’s modeling The 13-year-old’s with career is taking off quickly, agents already lined up in Milan, But her first Paris and New York. exit had some tense moments. “My backpack slipped!” Van Ravenstein said backstage, FULL CLEVELAND: model is in Milan’s midst. model is in Milan’s Eighties cover girl was at Fendi Monday morning to witness the runway debut of her daughter, is still missing in action, and was easily coaxed to Italy for the Guy Trebay . Two also got wet. And the audience fared not could be first on the block — and there’s on the Fashion and water do not mix. The Fendi Emilia Fox Rumors are surfacing once again that Prada is Anna Wintour Rebecca Romijn- Armani went to bed an ] Helmut Lang Meanwhile, Meanwhile, Also attending his first Armani show, Also attending his first Armani show, t Cleveland and her Fashion Scoops Fashion Giorgio Pa Anna. daughter, CUT IT SHORT, REBECCA: CUT IT SHORT, nights ago, Stamos woke actress and on Monday a phone up a model. “I got asking me call this morning whether I would accompany [ to meet the designer today, since Armani is costuming him for to meet the designer today, his next film, “De-Lovely”, in which he plays Cole Porter. I didn’t see anything in the show I would “Unfortunately, Kline deadpanned. “I tend towards the conservative. I wear,” think Cole Porter was a little flashier than I am.” runway today. I was just runway today. supposed to be a guest at the shows, but it was like ‘Welcome to Milano’ — here Glad I I am on the runway. could be of service. I’d done some modeling before, but never for Armani,” she said with a laugh backstage after she The dresses the show. finale wore during the show’s — black on the runway and red on the video backdrop that had been taped earlier until Armani got a glimpse of — were originally floor-length, the dresses. Just like Romijn-Stamos’ legs. “So he chopped that. And then he put the fabric around my shoulders like a shawl.” Romijn-Stamos, who will star in the upcoming “X- Men 2”, is headed for Paris after Milan. “Who knows, maybe I’ll get an invitation from (French president day from England, where she starts shooting “Henry VIII” She came only to and stars as Jane Seymour. on Monday, see the Armani show and confessed she’d stay longer if she could. “I’d be quite happy to live the rest of my life here,” said the actress, who just finished making the Italian film “Prendimi l’anima.” But I don’t speak a word of Italian — and I’d have to live off nothing but coffee.” PRADA PLAY?: coming under increasing pressure to sell some assets and reduce its debt. The company has already confirmed plans to sell off some $216 million worth of real estate in Italy — and one or two fashion labels might be next to go. Sources say hand: apparently at least one suitor waiting for Helmut’s cash-rich Diesel, which only last year added debt has been to its growing stable. Although Prada’s shrinking, it was still $832 million at the end of 2002. A rejected talk of a sale. “Selling Prada spokesman, however, Helmut Lang is not on the agenda. We’re opening up a store Spiga.” at the end of the month on Via Jil Sander SANDER CHATTER: has yet to announce her plans, now that the non-compete clause with Prada Group, which owns her trademark, has expired. But companies seeking design help are taking Sources in Milan said Sander was notice of her availability. recently contacted by Richemont SA. Could the group be seeking help for its Dunhill brand, which makes ready-to- wear? Richemont declined to comment. was in her glory plunging into the backstage fracas. “Here we so tribal, isn’t it?” go, into the crush,” she said. “It’s WORLD: WATER with a narrow trough of water on each side, proved a runway, hazard during show rehearsals on Sunday. an experienced horseback rider who knows a thing or two about water hazards, confessed that she failed to miss that one. But she set a trend. Models Mariacarla Boscono better — among those tiptoeing into the puddle was The reporter Times New York direction of Ferré Gianfranco Ferré The best looks in Ferré’s fall collection were built to fall collection were The best looks in Ferré’s The rest of the collection ventured far and wide, maintaining — and maximizing — a dramatic edge. And himself may be the serious, solemn sort, while Ferré the drastic daring of his creations — perhaps uninten- tionally — stirs up fun. suit the most elegant motorcycle mama the world may never have seen. Classic motorcycle jackets zipped this way and that at the neck to create a regal portrait collar of the sort Queen Elizabeth I might have favored had she ever hit the road astride a hog. Of course, these also came intensified, cut in gold leather or croc and decorated with swags of chain and a smattering of brooches to add a little bit of pomp. Vrrrrooom. which al- chic classics, covering ground from Ferré’s to fresh-looking ways boast a slightly sinister flair, pieces that took inspiration from, if not the street, then The designer has been studying young the dance floor. it seems. He cut pants baggy and planted people lately, a couple of big back pockets on a satin ballskirt. While never gives always pay off, Ferré his striving doesn’t up, and he never gives in to complacency. You’ve got to hand it to the man. He’s You’ve But the shine didn’t stop there, as Lagerfeld But the shine didn’t metallicized shearlings and furs to dazzling effect. Some pieces heralded a return to voluptuous proportions in width if not length, while he kept others sleek and sportif, even including a quilted parka. And once again, special effects, working the he played with those Fendi fur in all sorts of ways. Some resembled velvet, some a feathers, some seemed to sprout wild tufts of fur, boasting backstage. He described process that had Karl them as “furs made like implants — what men get done they’re using mink.” Cosmetic with their hair — except surgery on a coat — leave it to Lagerfeld. Gianfranco Ferré: boots, all in nude leather, matched to the model’s skin boots, all in nude leather, tone. More often, he went for color over monotone, his or high-gloss satin girls all aglow in metallic HotPants leggings that gave a nod to the tacky side of the Eighties. is still tin- been at it for 24 years, and Gianfranco Ferré sen- kering with his fashion formula like a St. Martin’s experiment takes Each season, his never-ending ior. woman to new places, always the fashionable Ferré anco Ferré Gianfranco

Gianfr

ine and Biker Chic Biker and ine h 6 Milan Collections 2003 4, MARCH ,

TUESDAY Milan in Motion Salvatore Ferragamo: In his second season at Ferragamo, Graeme Black shifted his ethno interest from exotic tropical climes to St. Petersburg, Salvatore Ferragamo WWD, according to his program notes. This was not, however, a Cossack romp. In fact, it wasn’t a romp of any sort. Unfortunately, Black took a wrong turn somewhere on the bumpy road between those two destinations, losing many in his audience along the way. While interesting pieces were scattered throughout, the collection itself was overcooked. What worked for fall included Black’s less-strained looks, a sexy polo top paired with a dotted flyaway skirt, a silver astrakhan jacket and silver satin miniskirt as well as simple but luxe items like a striped fur jacket with dramatically belled sleeves or a croc jacket worn with a chiffon miniskirt. But other pieces — pants made from spliced bands of croc, a full-length, cherry red fur cape — buckled and broke under the weight of too many ideas. Just who the Ferragamos are hoping to seduce with the house’s wares is still in question, and so is whether Black can lure her to the cash register.

Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli: Roberto Cavalli’s muse is a whole lot of woman. Last season, she showed off her hyper-feminine side, and, while she may seem delicate at times, deep down, she’s a turbo-charged vixen. For fall, she’s dropped the damsel act and is set to star alongside Vin Diesel in his next techno-thriller, armed only with a wardrobe flashy — and sexy — enough to disarm any red-blooded opponent. To suit up this most fashionable action heroine: slick minidresses short enough to make a Bond girl blush, stirrup pants, thigh-high boots and a skintight leather jumpsuit à la NASCAR, complete with a “Goddess” patch on the back. But for this special agent, going undercover is not an option, because no one will ever lose sight of this chick, especially when she’s dressed in paillette-covered neon brights. In fact, this season, a black bolero sparkling like a slick stretch of asphalt and worn over a purple satin corset and sequined blue jeans is as discreet as it gets. There was plenty of daywear — at least for those who begin their days after dark — and for the live wire on her way to Las Vegas, or Hollywood, Cavalli also showed scores of evening gowns, variously plunging, slit or followed by trains. These were simply outra- geous. It takes a certain kind of girl, however curvy and adventurous, to commit to spending a night in a silvered suede gown with a Harley-type eagle spreading its wings across her back. At the Just Cavalli show on Saturday night, however, the clothes suggested a different kind of commit- ment — the kind of committed where they come and take you away, ha-ha. Clownish clothes and camouflage are not so funny at a 10 p.m. show, however. While some items were fun, including cute parkas, army jackets and silly knits, Cavalli’s riotous combinations could make Just Cavalli Roberto Bootsy Collins look conservative. It was all a blur. Cavalli

Jil Sander: Where to begin? Maybe that was Milan Vukmirovic’s question, too, as he set out to design the Jil Sander collection this season. His successes at the house have come in fits and starts. Season after season, his strengths and weaknesses have been dutifully noted, and yet Vukmirovic hasn’t really knocked anyone’s socks off — ever. This show began promisingly enough, with a patent leather motorcycle jacket over thin-as-a-pin black pants and a fuzzy sweater paired with a double-tiered skirt in sparkling black plaid. Then came a fur jacket trimmed in patent with a black miniskirt. Not bad, not bad at all. But, as it has happened time and again, Vukmirovic did his best, and the collection got away from him. Though relaying the results of his efforts is a heavy task, truth be told, the clothes looked neither luxurious nor new. Dip-dyed sweaters were droopy and dull. A rock T-shirt finale played off of a trend that was finito seasons ago. The list could go on, but why linger? Those editors and retailers who need to find something to love about Vukmirovic’s rock ’n’ roll-inspired collection will. But as Jil Sander herself well proved, luxury is never about needing. It’s fueled by beauty, whimsy and infatuation.

Brioni: Sixties. Eighties. Everyone seems to be spinning those decades in Milan this season, and designer Fabio Piras is no excep- tion. He was working the theme at Brioni in silhouettes he describes as “sporty but eccentric, almost kitsch.” That translates into slender coats and suits in patchwork patterns, plaids and even a shiny her- ringbone; lots of padded shoulders, and, for that touch of luxury, chinchilla collars on coats. In just three seasons, Piras seems to have developed a following for his style. Umberto Angeloni, chairman of the company, said, “We’ve seen a constant progress in numbers with this line, as it evolved from a haberdashery look to one that’s more Salvatore feminine and trends-oriented.” Ferragamo 7 WWD,

Roberto Jil Sander Jil Sander Cavalli Fashion Scoops TUESDAY ,

A LA MODE: Despite the luxury chill, France’s fashion MARCH magazine market is getting warm. Several Condé Nast France employees have been conscripted to start working

on a secret project: the launch of French Glamour. Condé 4, Nast France president Didier Suberbielle had no comment, 2003 saying only, “We are looking at several things.” If Glamour does make it to the newsstand, it will have lots of company. Axel Springer and Prisma Press have women’s fashion titles in development in France. And Britain’s Emap is also said to be considering a women’s project, already owning the men’s title FHM.

MAKING MIU-SIC: Is Miuccia Prada adding music promoter to her list of duties? Not quite, but word has it Prada is plotting a series of music and arts events in Paris under the banner “Miu Miu Presents.” Sources said the first event, featuring up-and-coming DJs and video artists, is set for March 20 at the Miu Miu flagship.

INN OR OUT?: Speculation continues to surface about the fate of Giorgio Armani’s Via Manzoni megastore, which opened in 2000. One scenario making the rounds in Milan has Armani gutting the store to make way for a hotel. But an Armani spokesman quashed that theory: “The store is doing very well, but we’re looking at the possibility of turning the top floors into a hotel,” he said.

BRULE+FERRE: What do you get when you pair Tyler Brulé with Gianfranco Ferré? Well, more than just rhyming verse. Brulé, founder of Wallpaper and the driving force behind the creative consultancy Wink, is creating the packaging and store design for Ferré’s new men’s and women’s clothing line that will launch this summer at the Milan men’s shows. As reported, the line will be called Ferré, and will replace the designer’s diffusion lines, including GFF and Gianfranco Ferré Studio. “We’ve been working together since December. Our collaboration grew out of a graphic design project we did for Ferré,” said Brulé who, arrived in Milan on Monday. Meanwhile, Ferré and his new owner, IT Holding, have been busy indeed. As part of their effort to relaunch the brand, they’ve re-furbished the Via Sant’Andrea store and put a spa — a mosaic oasis overlooking a private garden — on the ground floor. Services include hot stones for the feet and hands, facials, mud treatments and massage. After the facial, head upstairs and check out the 5,400- square-foot store with its red carpet, pearly white leather ottomans and briar wood display cases.

NO JOY FOR RUFFO: Ruffo and Joy Yaffe, the brand’s p.r. and talent scout, have parted ways. Yaffe, who joined Ruffo six years ago, headhunted young designers for the Ruffo Research line — an experimental collection created by a different designer every year. As reported, Ruffo Research was suspended in January due to market conditions. The latest designer to take on Ruffo Research was the Belgian designer Haider Ackermann. “I’ll be at Haider’s Paris show later this week and want him to have as much success as all the other designers,” said Yaffe, referring to the likes of Sophia Kokosalaki, Vèronique Branquinho and Raf Simons.

PROFESSOR ADROVER: He’s not getting an honorary degree, but perpetually struggling designer Miguel Adrover on Friday will open “Primavera de Comunicacio 2003,” a conference on the state of art and design that takes place in Majorca and is sponsored by the government of the Balearic Islands. Adrover was born in Majorca. The other Balearic islands are Menorca, Cabrera, Ibiza and Formentera. BriBrionioni Primavera de Comunicacio is attended by students of major art and design schools throughout Spain. Adrover will discuss the challenges facing the industry and his strategy to relaunch his clothing line in a presentation entitled, “What benefit can fashion have to contemporary society?” The designer has lately been A Turn to the Write beating the drum for wear-now deliveries and fashion that’s relevant to today’s lifestyles. Hopefully, he won’t hen Rebecca Moses first began her quest to create a talk himself out of a career.

leather goods and lifestyle collection for Pineider last sea- ANDA Wson, she drew parallels between the art of writing and the PERSONAL APPEARANCE: John Pomerantz, chairman of the MIR art of living. Now she’s having some fun with those equations. Leslie Fay Co., has returned to work on a part-time basis.

“I wanted to look at it in a satirical way — people who live to “I was in today. I’m working two hours a day. I don’t have URICIO MA write,” she said. So each room of Pineider’s Via Manzoni shop A leopard-pattern desk set and leather albums. much to do,” said Pomerantz. features a different scene of mannequins, dressed in paper He was struck by a car in Mamaroneck, N.Y., on Jan. AND clothing — from a French maid jotting down a list of her house- their children how to write and that not everything should be 31, while crossing Old Boston Post Road on his way to an

hold duties to the socialite penning thank-you notes to a pair of done on a computer,” she said. acupuncturist appointment. He dislocated his shoulder, MAESTRI romance novelists pondering the plot of their next masterpiece. Moses has also revisited some of Pineider’s classic, timeless broke three ribs and his hip, and fractured his tibia, knee VIDE

These characters set the mood for the store, which is pieces — the tri-bag, a buffalo-skin carryall, and a fun series of and right thumb. DA packed with such household items as leather-capped wicker- totes with envelope-shaped pockets — and reworked them in “I’m on a cane. I have a brace on my leg and a splint basket stools, handstitched keepsake boxes and buffalo-horn fresh colors such as white, turquoise and reddish-brown. The on my finger. My left arm is still strapped to my body,” he IANNONI, picture frames. One room seems to best sum up Moses’ vision designer interjected a bit of funk here and there, too, as in a said Monday. G NNI of blending the literary into every aspect of life — the corner leopard-print desk set. Pomerantz said it’s still too soon to start physical A IOV

dedicated to gifts suitable for children just discovering the joys In addition to the firm’s own boutiques, the collection is therapy and added that he really isn’t too productive at G

Y of reading and writing. “It’s important for mothers to teach also sold at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. work: “I sit there and listen. I can’t use the computer.” B PHOTOS 8 2003 4, Versace Expanding in China MARCH , A look at A Chinese Versace bestseller. stores in TUESDAY Beijing, and Shanghai WD,

W (inset).

By Luisa Zargani strongest in the world and lections account for 60 percent extremely fast-paced,” he said. of total sales. “We are edging MILAN — Versace is looking at Column B. Daniele Balestrazzi, chief towards a 50-50 share.” After planting stores in key Chinese cities of financial officer, added that At the end of March and in Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong, the house is now Hong Kong’s handover to May, Versace Collection bou- expanding in secondary cities with an aggressive plan China did not hamper the tiques will open in Harbin, for growth in the world’s most populous nation. expansion of the city. under a distribution agreement Lured by China’s economic potential, over the past “Actually, we saw a stronger with Joyce, and Weng Szuù, year, the company bought back its Chinese franchise, set- development and a shift in con- respectively. In Guangzhou, Versace ting up Givi Hong Kong; renovated its existing stores in sumer nationality, with more and Versus boutiques will open in the the style of Milan’s Montenapoleone model, and has reg- Chinese from the mainland who fall, when, as a sign of the importance of istered a 10 percent increase in sales there. replaced the traditional Japanese cus- this market, Donatella Versace plans to This year, Versace is focused on a retailing strategy tomers,” said Balestrazzi. There are six visit China. aimed at such cities as Harbin and Weng Szuù this spring Versace and two Versus boutiques in Hong Kong. In Hong Kong, the company completely renovat- and Guangzhou in the fall. Over the next three years, the The company’s bold colors and patterns and strong ed the Versace Pacific Place boutique last fall. company plans to open eight additional locations for fashion statements generate strong brand awareness “This is an extremely successful boutique, and we fin- Versace and 16 for Versus and Versace Jeans Couture in in China. According to Far Eastern Economic Review ished the month of January 35 percent ahead of sales China. In addition to setting up a press office and show- magazine, in 2001, Versace ranked first in brand plans,” said Santo Versace. In January, the house opened rooms in Beijing to control the brand’s alignment there, awareness in Shanghai, followed by Alfred Dunhill, a boutique in Shanghai. In that city, there are two other Versace has increased its advertising budget by 20 per- and second in a survey entitled “Labels I want to buy,” signature line boutiques that were renovated last sum- cent for the year in the area. after Dunhill. mer as well as a Versus boutique. Last fall, the company “China has the potential to become even more Among bestsellers are Gothic DV items. “This line is also doubled the size of the Beijing Palace Hotel bou- important than Japan, in terms of sheer numbers, with very successful, [especially] the brights — the Chinese tique and opened a Versace Collection store in Shenzen. 10 percent of the Chinese population adding up to more love colors and patterns,” said Versace. Watches and While China accounts for about 6 percent of compa- of the total Japanese population,” said Santo Versace, fine jewelry are also high on the list of bestsellers. ny’s roughly $500 million in overall sales, or about $30 chief executive officer, in an interview last Thursday, Among the accessories, Versace said that a “rainbow million, Versace said he projects a 20 percent increase before prepping for the fall show, which will be held buckle” handbag decorated with colorful watch straps in sales there. here today. for spring sold “extremely well.” Versace also said the craftsmanship and manufactur- Versace attributed the growing importance of China Balestrazzi said the company has an average 80 per- ing capabilities in China are more qualified than one to a political and religious stability and the people’s cent sell-through and that “women are very up-to-date” might expect, ranging from microprocessors to aero- hard-working ways and passion for business. in China, especially in Shanghai and Beijing. “It is no space production plants. “We don’t produce anything “We opened our first store in Hong Kong back in 1980 longer a male-oriented society, and a large portion of there yet, but we are considering it,” he said. “The qual- and realized that the Chinese are commercially the women work today,” he said. Sales of the men’s wear col- ity of sportswear is high.”

Bernard Round Two for LVMH v. Morgan Stanley Arnault Continued from page 2 The judge set April 1 for a decision on the proce- hours before the court convened. dural questions. At that time, another date will be One source said Morgan Stanley’s lawyers had not determined for Morgan Stanley to respond to had enough time to fully digest the document. They LVMH’s accusations. said, however, that LVMH had not denied possessing A source familiar with the case said that after the secret evidence. bank responds to allegations it would launch its own “We’re perplexed by their position,” said LVMH at- counterclaim against LVMH for damage done by the torney Terrier. “They want us to provide more docu- proceedings, as reported. The bank has not disclosed ments. But they didn’t say what documents they want. how much it would seek in damages. They want to complicate the case.” The source reiterated the bank’s intention to fight He continued, “They want us to explain the CD- the action vigorously, underlining that Monday’s pro- ROM, how it pertains to the case. It’s evidence to argue ceedings were neither a sign of fear nor a means to our position. I don’t know how much more explicitly buy time. clear we can be.” A clear calendar for resolution in the case has yet A spokesman for LVMH said the firm remained to emerge, both legal teams admitted. They said it “confident of [its] position. This is a futile attempt to could drag on for months, possibly past summer and gain time.” into fall.

ONS S & Y A STEINW OF TESY COUR PIANO PICTURS; SION AS P OF TESY COUR FOREVER" LIVE " ; GALLERY

MILLER/GEISLER OF TESY COUR UNTITLED" " THWEIN'S OR ; A MITR T ROBER Y B AIT TR OR P THWEIN 9 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 OR has a — Samantha Conti Samantha — Karl Lagerfeld flair for the dramatic. But this time, the designer has really channeled his inner celebrate the 150th Liberace. To anniversary of Steinway & Sons, he designed a piano, even though he “The S.L.ED,” which play. doesn’t stands for Steinway Limited Edition, at Steinway will be unveiled Wednesday “I Hall on the company’s birthday. changed what I did not like in pianos and apparently it’s a big success with them,” says Lagerfeld of his masterpiece, which retails for $85,000. The black lacquered instrument boasts sled-shaped legs and a high red polish inside. Only 150 KL pianos, all featuring his signature, were created. “I am not gifted to play the piano,” he admits, “but I love the sound and listening to it.” It’s no secret that Piano Man From top: video stills of Damien Hirst, Prime Minister Tony Minister Prime Hirst, Damien of stills video top: From stage. on Oasis and guitar, a with Blair It was a shining Director John Dower Though the spotlight is as it began. Oasis’ much- Alas, Dower contends, Britpop ended almost as soon Producer includes “One Day in September,” John Battsek, whose past work trinity of Britpop in there — going to do it unless we got the holy weren’t “We the end of the But once they got started, there was no stopping them. Toward arl Lagerfeld’sarl limited- K piano. Steinway edition LONDON — LONDON but all-too-brief moment in and now it’s British history, a documen- the subject of tary starring the Gallagher brothers, Jarvis Cocker and “Live Damien Hirst. on released here Forever,” the story is of the Monday, Nineties Britpop years, 1994 through 1997, when rockers from working-class homes found a voice after nearly two decades under the thumb of conservative gov- ernments and in the shadow of American culture. traces the music — and class — rivalry between Oasis, formed by the working-class Gallagher brothers, and Blur’s middle-class David Albarn. “I worked on building sites. That funda- mentally makes my soul a lot purer than theirs,” says tongue Noel Gallagher, planted firmly in cheek. On a more serious note, he were born into a adds: “We f****** life of menial f****** jobs. What aspirations did we have? All we had was roll.” rock ’n’ on the homegrown music that sparked the first big chart wars since the days of the Beatles and the Rolling Stones, the 82-minute documentary captures the also period’s Cool Britannia, featuring runway clips of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Stella McCartney Moss —and Kate famous scene of Ewan McGregor’s to mention that not drug-in- Included are interviewsduced antics in “Trainspotting.” with everyone from to British Artists) the Young Damien Hirst (who dishes about his stuffed shark and who discusses Prime campaign director, Party’s the Labour Mandelson MP, Peter Blair’s Blair as rock music fan. Dower examines how party embraced Minister Tony that some of that working- Britpop during its 1996-97 election campaign in the hopes class stardust would rub off. It did — the party won a landslide victory in 1997, and at a cocktail party at 10 there’s even footage of Noel Gallagher chatting with Blair Downing Street. the hit it was sup- 1997 wasn’t awaited “Be Here Now” album released in August and no one was in the posed to be. Princessdays later, Diana was killed a few mood to party. documentary about the 1972 Olympic Games in the Academy Award-winning easy. Munich, said putting the documentary together wasn’t lot of musi- the Gallaghers, Jarvis Cocker and Damon Albarn,” says Battsek. “A they think it like talking about what they did in the past because cians don’t There was a general reluctance to talk.” negates what they’re doing now. film, Noel is asked whether he knew he was making history at the time. His answer is no: “If we’d have sat down and calculated we were going to make history, I certainly would have worn a better outfit and gone to bed a little bit earlier — and tried to keep Liam off the sauce.” Encyclopedic Brittania Encyclopedic —Alison Oneacre —Alison “There’s definitely a sadness in the digitally places herself — the message is clear: a haunting sense of displacement and alienation. work,” the tiny and intense artist admits, as “I’m really she walks through the gallery. attracted to displacement as a subject It resonates with me.” Although she matter. hails from St. Louis’ most prominent family — — late grandmother is Clara Busch her the brewery heiress, now in her mid-thirties, had a tumultuous upbringing. She lost her at Lady Milford-Haven, to cancer mother, nine and bounced between the family’s homes around the country before heading to lived inboarding school at age 12. “We New Beach, lived in Palm for a while. We York has Isaac Watching photographer RomaineWatching stand in the Orthwein Pick Julia Bidermann There’s Orthwein prostrate on a glass dining room table or peering out There’s Orthwein prostrate on a glass dining room table ’s documentary NEW YORK — NEW YORK center of her exhibition, “Presence,” Gallery at the Miller/Geisler has the mirrors. In everydizzying effect of walking through a set of fun house direction, the artist’s eerie images surround her. a chapel or gazing of a television set or scampering across a boulder toward

® “Unzipped,” photographer ollowing in the vein of Mizrahi

“There’s the leather page, the rusted metal page, the mirror page,” says So where does the artist see herself fitting in now? “Nowhere!” she cries out, cracking a rare laugh. “But I feel most at home in New York.” While Orthwein’s work raises questions of identity and what it means to belong, one work raises questions of identity While Orthwein’s Thus, Orthwein has always been fascinated by other people’s homes. For the people’s homes. For Thus, Orthwein has always been fascinated by other Romaine Orthwein at the Miller/Geisler Miller/Geisler the at Orthwein Romaine the from “Untitled” Below: Gallery. 2002. Orthwein, “Looking series, Glass”

Top Top F and filmmaker Bidermann, who met with 80 designers before selecting seven to profile. “The book those interested in owning a copy of “Pick-Up” has a real storyboard feel to it.” For “I’ve got 11 left.” dawdle. Says its creator: — at $800 a pop — don’t captured seven designers in the throes of the creative process in her The “Pick-Up.” photo documentary, tome, produced in a limited edition of 62, will be on display in an installation Thursday through The Sunday at Sterilemind Gallery. series of contents of “Pick-Up,” laid between two slabs of resin, include a Polaroid Pierrot, Rogan People, Indigo Rachel Comey, such designers as Proenza Schouler, at work in their studios, as well as pages crafted by the designers from and Valentine materials they use.

eye Spirit of St.of Spirit Louis has to wonder if her heritage is more burden than blessing. “I think I always felt like a that her four the eccentric one,” she says, adding little bit of an oddball in the family, have followed more traditional paths, entering the business world. “For half-siblings me, it was more about being a creative and theatrical personality.” “Looking Glass” series, she selected affluent residences of friends and family and “Looking Glass” series, she selected affluent residences bedrooms from the snapped their mahogany-paneled living rooms and antique-laden outside looking in — home,” “Never inside the it through a windowpane or doorway. be the kind of environment I grew up she says. “I chose homes that were similar enough to herself separately and in because the work is so personal.” She then photographed by her placement within positioned herself within each picture, building a narrative the home — a mistress or a long lost relative? is she a beloved daughter, then we lived in St. Louis, and we lived in Rhode Island during the summers,” she says. then we lived in St. Louis, and we lived in Rhode Island home anymore, schools for six years, home felt like it wasn’t being at boarding “After either.” out steadily from a portrait that hangs in a bedroom. Though the show, which runs Though the show, out steadily from a portrait that hangs in a bedroom. through March 22, features two series of her work — of the artist “Spirit,” self-portraits of lavish homes in which she at sacred sites, and the “Looking Glass,” photographs 10 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 house saleevents. ware- semiannual two and outlets 12 Chelsea, and SoHo in stores, co-op two operates also chain The Seattle. and Mass., Hill, Chestnut Island, Long Manhasset, in stores smaller three as well as Hills, Beverly and Chicago in Avenue, Madison on flagships operates Barneys goods. designer on focused store fashion luxury a as appeal ket mar- narrow Barneys’ given difficult prove might sale any although case, their help should results latest the and chain the sell to hope 1999, January in bankruptcy of out Barneys bought that funds investment two Management, Harbour Bay and million, puttingfourth-quarternetat$4.6million. $2.9 was income net and million, $10.1 at EBITDA fourth-quarter putting million, $19.6 to came DA EBIT- Nine-month sales. in million $106 about at quarter fourth the put would which million, $277.4 totaling percent, 3.1 increased sales comp months, nine the For figures. full-year the from period nine-month the for results announced previously the subtracting by deduced be could but issued, the companyraisefunds. 2 page from Continued Barneys Sees $7.5M Profit in ’02 ating profits in the apparel seg- apparel the in profits ating top andbottomlinegrowth.” to substantially contribute will cash free our with globally Klein Calvin with grow can we nesses busi- “The Klatsky. said cash,” of Klein, saidKlatsky. Calvin build to use can PVH that funds — cash in million $117 with year the ending ny compa- the in resulted that flow cash strong generate to able was PVH line, bottom better a and sition asthemarketleader. shirt businessmaintaineditspo- outperformed theeconomy.” and market the outperformed has it channel, store department the in Izod and Heusen Van by Led well. exceedingly performed has particular in business wear sports- “Our WWD. told Klatsky Bruce officer executive chief comparison,” earnings positive the drove divisions footwear and apparel the from profits ating York StockExchange trading. New in $12.19 at close to percent, 2 or cents, 24 shares firm’s the up traded and afoot was something sensed investors PVH closed, market the after came report from $325.6millionayearago. million $315.3 to percent 3.2 ed sensus estimateby3cents. con- Street Wall the beat easily way,PVH quarter.Either year prior- the in cents, 14 or million, $4 of profits reported have would PVH goodwill, of impairment the regarding change accounting an for million $13.4 of charge tax after- Excludingan share. a cents 34 or million $9.5 of loss year’s last with compares That share. diluted a cents 20 or million $5.7 of income net reported ufacturer man- footwear and apparel brand Feb. 2,theNewYork-based multi- acquired CalvinKleinbusiness. recently its of expansion global the drive to cash free substantial importantly,more generated haps per- and, quarter fourth the in black the to back swung Corp. sen — YORK NEW Burrows Dan By Klatsky: Cash for Calvin Expansion vnuly te rmr onr, Whippoorwill owners, primary the Eventually, been yet not have alone Fourth-quarter results Meanwhile, increased oper- increased Meanwhile, amount tremendous a is “That efficiencies increased With dress the that added Klatsky oper- and margins “Improved earnings company’s the While retreat- period the for Sales ended months three the For Phillips-VanHeu- acquisition will slightly dilute slightly will acquisition the that cautioned again once sky deal tomargingrowth. great a contributed also which markdowns, clearance of amount the reduce significantly to PVH allowed also year the throughout management inventory Tight ago. year a percent 38.8 from sales of percent 41.9 to points basis 360 expanded margin grow 20percentto$500,000. to income operating allowed control cost and management ry invento- tight segment, footwear the In million. $2.2 to percent 12 of gain income profit erating op- an to led That margins. gross better to contributed which of all selling, full-priced more and operations, sourcing PVH’s of reconfiguration year’s last by spurred costs product lower overall by driven were ment “ top and bottom line growth. line bottom and top to substantially contribute will cash free our with globally Klein Calvin Regarding Calvin Klein, Klat- Klein, Calvin Regarding gross companywide Overall, The businesses we can grow with grow can we businesses The $115 millionto$120million. in kicking revenues censing li- with billion, $1.59 to billion $1.56 of range the in forecast are sales Net $1. to cents 95 of EPS full-fiscal-year 2003 forecasts PVH Klein, Calvin to related cents 50 to 45 aftertax of charges transition and restructuring half billion ayearago. percent to$1.4billionfrom$1.43 been $24.1million,or86cents. have would income net year’s last charges, the Excluding cents. 38 or million $10.7 of ings earn- year’s last with compares That share. diluted a $1.08 or million, $30.4 to percent 185 ing gain- tripled, nearly profits said period. prior-year the with compared million $73 by position debt net its improve to PVH lowed al- management capital working effective more news, sheet butthat’sit.” — it into looking still we’re — tions opera- back-office some in ergies any way. There may be some syn- to integrateitorhomogenizein want don’t We entity. separate a egy forPVH.We willoperateitas strat- growth a is “It said. Klatsky savings,” cost and synergies on based acquisition an not is most part,autonomous. the for remain, will Klein Calvin costs, integration be will there although that added He yond. be- and 2004 in percent 20 to 15 by EPS improve to potential the has business new the said Klatsky However, shareholders. common to available income net reduce will turn, in That, deal. the nance fi- to issued stock preferred on dividends the by affected be will they as share, per earnings 2003 Excluding an expected first- expected an Excluding 1.9 slipped year the for Sales PVH year, fiscal full the For balance positive other In acquisition Klein Calvin “The — Bruce Klatsky ” Raising Raising Net 63.9% PacSun Sales Shine n 01 ad s xetd o grow to expected is and 2001, in percent 38 from up 2002, of end the by sales apparel total of cent per- 45 to rose apparel Female categories. product four of three accessories, and shoes apparel, in sales fueling are customers female noting said, Weaver tive, initia- major a remains business sales productivityin2003. in $400 to $375 generate could unit the noted He businesses. accessories and girls’ its panded ex- also has it and improved substantially has merchandising business.” retail teen the in niche a out carved have Demo and “PacSun call. conference a on investors told executive, chief and man Weaver, Greg chair- business,” girls’ growing a and brands multiple of help the with share week rangeis$10.81to$20.11. 52- Its percent. 0.3 or cents, 6 up $17.77, at shares its with day the ended PacSun but closed, market the after out came bers Num- percent. 49 up Demo and percent 10 up PacSun with cent per- 14.8 increased comps ary positive. slightly were comps men’s while digits, double the in up were girls’ and accessories footwear, PacSun, at category chandising mer- By percent. 15.6 improving sales comparable-store with lion mil- $207.6 over million $265.6 to year-ago period. or 28cents,inthecorresponding million, $14.2 of earnings with compares That expectations. average Street’s Wallof ahead cents 2 Feb.1 ended months three the for shares, diluted a cents 46 or million, $23.2 to cent per- 63.9 rose profits said plates, name- Demo and PacSun the under stores 794 operates which retailer,snowboard and surf even comparable-storesales. and earnings sales, in creases in- double-digit with quarter fourth its conclude to it lowed al- sales of wave strong a that Monday late said California of — YORK NEW By Jennifer Weitzman Growing the company’s girls’ company’s the Growing overall Demo’s Weaver said market gaining are “We Febru- said also retailer The percent 27.9 improved Sales Calif.-based Anaheim, The Pacific Sunwear Pacific comps rose9.7percent. and million $684.8 from lion mil- $846.4 to percent 23.6 rose Sales cents. 56 or million, $27.6 of 2001 in income versus cents, 99 or million, $49.3 to percent the secondhalf,up3to4percent. and better or digits mid-single the in up comps first-half with better,or increase comp cent per- 5 a including $1.19, of share per earnings 2003 forecasting is expanded orrelocated30stores. and stores 73 year,added PacSun Last locations. larger to stores 30 relocate to plan its continue will retailer Calif.-based heim, Ana- The stores. Demo 10 and Outlets PacSun new four stores, PacSun new 61 include will and closings store planned 12 minus stores new 87 from comes number net 75 an- The nounced. originally stores 60 the versus stores new net 75 open to at PacSun andDemostores. business girls’ the of strength the to primarily due planned, than higher is it but percent, 14 of increase year’s last doesn’treach rise The year. this percent 12 by footage square retail its increase Wednesdaywill said it California of Sunwear Pacific retailers, many among plans expansion er slow- and spending teen pressed and Fox. Dickies Globe, include brands Top stores. the into back tomers cus- its drawing month, each stores the is newness creates that diversity brand PacSun’s Gap customer.” a not is that music hip-hop and personalities sports by driven lifestyle a is it and business the driving brands multiple T-shirts,a have we but and jeans selling there out stores many so are “There said. Weaver style,” life- or theme a have to have You there. out stuff put just not throughout thecountry. down is traffic mall when time a at year this rising transaction per sales and transactions both see to fortunate been has ny compa- the month last interview to 50percentorgreaterthisyear. For the year, income rose 80.2 rose year,income Forthe it said PacSun ahead, Looking plans PacSun 2003, fiscal For de- despite reported, As is it believes he said Weaver can- you is line bottom “The telephone a in Weaver said

A MITR T ROBER Y B HOTO P CAASI S

11 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 — David Moin David — SoHo is the favorite shop- 76 percent of the shoppers Ralph Lauren was voted the Some other findings include: On the retail front, 21 Ironically, Richemont, which LVMH once considered ex- Montblanc’s largest store is In the women’s designer bou- The two most popular ac- be civil,” the guide says. wholesale accounts and beefing up its own retail. In the past 18 months, Martens said, Montblanc pulled its merchandise out of more than 50 percent of the doors where its products were sold in the U.S., but still whole- sales to 67 doors, including Tourneau, Bailey Banks Biddle and Fortunoff ’s. & Montblanc stores in America opened in 2001 North and none were opened in there are 42 freestand- Currently, 2002. ing stores owned by the company, with another seven franchised and 52 shop-in-shops. Aside from the flagship, no other stores are planned for this year. boasts such brands as Cartier, Dunhill and Piaget, penned the Manhattan flagship deal with one of Louis its prime competitors, Hennessy Moët LVMH Vuitton, which holds the master lease for the building, said to run for about 50 years. LVMH is seeking another luxury retailer for the same the building. Furla, Italian handbag and accessories firm, is under consideration, according to sources. panding its Christian Dior store on 57th Street to the but corner, decided to leave Dior alone. currently in Paris on the Cham- ps-Elysées and has 1,700 square feet of retail space. The 57th Street unit will reflect the Paris design by having an open, loft- like contemporary environment with “soothing blue tones” accented by a classic natural-wood setting and matte silver detail- ing. It’s a departure from Mont- blanc’s current black, white and gold boutique design. Jean- Michel Wilmotte will design the new space. The main entrance will be on 57th Street, just east of Dior, but frontage there wrapping around the will be corner, giving Montblanc maxi- mum exposure on both 57th Street and Madison Avenue. favorite designer, favorite followed designer, by Giorgio Armani and Donna Karan. ping neighborhood in the city, followed by the Upper East Side and Greenwich Village. said they were bargain hunters, and 69 percent preferred boutiques over department stores. tique category, The Furstenberg Shop Diane took the Von number-one slot, followed by Chanel, Carolina Christian Dior and Chloe. The Herrera, guide’s store description praises clothing Von Furstenberg’s and its wide age appeal. tivewear stores were Patagonia and Paragon; Vera Wang topped & bridal; Asser Turnball was best in service, and Leather Man and Toys in Babeland scored as the top sex shops. Montblanc has Bloomingdale’s is Ranking second-most-popular Rounding out top 20: Metro- Rated on a scale of zero to 30, Montblanc will take 5,200 Karsten Martens, president “Montblanc is growing in the Montblanc’s existing 500- A number of years ago, the Zagat Rates the Stores the Rates Zagat NEW YORK — “the quintessential New York store” and the city’s most popu- too, lar, according to the new “Zagat Survey of New City York The Shopping,” released Monday. guide rates 2,193 stores based on reviews from 7,176 shoppers. is Century 21, followed by Saks Fifth Avenue, then Bed, Bath & Beyond, Barneys New Macy’s, York, Banana Republic, Berg- dorf Goodman, Anthropologie and Costco Wholesale. Each store is rated for merchandise, presentation, service and prices. politan Museum of Art, ABC Carpet & Home, H&M, Henri Bendel, Kate’s Paperie, Loeh- mann’s, Ann Ann Taylor, Taylor Loft, Tiffany and Gap. with 30 being the best, Barneys, for example, scored a 26 for merchandise but only 19 for service due to its “infamously self-important salespeople, though they’re trying harder to Montblanc Expands Montblanc of one Flagship for N.Y. With deal Moin a David By NEW YORK — inked Manhattan’s chicest retail locations — the northwest corner of Madison and Avenue 57th Street — where it will open its largest store, WWD has learned. square feet across three floors, with 2,500 square feet for retail, probably all on the main level. Montblanc Generally, stores are about 700 square feet, but very productive. and chief executive officer of Montblanc North America, said the company signed a 10-year lease on the site, which is in the heart of Manhattan’s luxury district. He plans to open the flagship in the fall, and explained that the company needs bigger stores to accommodate its expanding product range. Montblanc, a division of the 97-year-old Swiss-based Compagnie Financiere Rich- emont luxury conglomerate, designs, manufactures and retails expensive writing instruments, leather goods, watches, jewelry, eyewear and fragrances. luxury market, something many brands cannot claim during these difficult times,” Martens said. “The core product is still writing instruments, but our biggest growth is coming from men’s leather jewelry, goods and watches.” square-foot unit on Madison between 57th and 58th Streets will close when the flagship opens. Sales per square foot reportedly exceed $4,000, or about $2 million overall. Montblanc hopes to is which triple that volume, to $6 million, flagship, new the in currently vacant and formerly housed a bank. Martens declined to comment on sales. company was mostly wholesale- oriented, but it has recently focused on streamlining to better Jill Scalamandre —Eric Wilson —Eric — Laura Klepacki Laura — with Andrea [Jung, Avon’s chairman] and highly Avon’s accom- plished team,” said Scalamandre. means a lot to “Avon women and it en- of goes beyond the lot beauty a products and — it power is all of encompassing. There lot a is ergy in the company.” It just takes a certain amount of charm to pull off Scaasi was somewhat surprised to learn that No matter. “One of the things I learned when I opened my On the mysterious dressmaker James, Scaasi state a for House, White the to trip first his On On his inspiration: “Every fabric takes its own On young designers today: “I find it astounding But he really impressed the class with a the artist Louise Nevelson, who always com- For And that inaugural gown for Barbara Bush? Don’t The students couldn’t get enough. Nor could “I want one of the men to ask a question,” he Awards show next month. Awards that combination of gall and humility, and Scaasi’s got charm to spare, sizing up the students and engag- then checking to ing them with the tales of his career, see how their expectations compared with his own Fifties. out as a designer in the experience starting half the students at the event were studying to work in merchandising programs rather than be- coming designers. Few students indicated they as dressmakers. wanted to design, let alone business in 1956 was that if you’re a great merchandise manager, people will be scared of you,” said Scaasi, opening a door to the other revela- tions he discovered on his journey from Montreal to Australia as a child, to Paris, where he worked for Paquin, and then to New where York, he was hired by Charles James. said, “he was more than a little nutty,” although he learned many secrets from the designer, such as how to steam a dress over a head form to make it fit properly over the bosom. dinner hosted by Mamie Eisenhower: “It was mind-blowing, not only because it’s so big and beautiful, but because you feel like you are walking into history.” make can’t a shape. bell You dress with chiffon or a dress that moves out of taffeta.” to hear people today saying, ‘I want someone to invest in my company.’ I started with the $2,000 I had saved, and when that was up, I worked harder until I made some more.” tongue-in-cheek tour of some of the famous gowns he designed over the years, the point of which was to remind them of one of the first lessons he learned: If a dress cannot be worn somewhere, then it has no meaning. plained of being cold, he designed a patchwork coat of paisley shawls lined with chinchilla to keep her warm as she constructed her enormous sculp- Barbra tures. Streisand’s For trip to Canada to woo Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau, he designed a white snow-queen ensemble “for making love in he said. received When Elizabeth the Taylor snow,” mo- an award at Lincoln Center, back happiest when she had the shocks of of gray hair at her temples, he made a gown one was of silver and black leaves to match. “This started. him get ments of my life,” Scaasi said. “Can you blame me?” Scaasi, who peppered a few audience members with questions of his own, looking for that spark of enthu- siasm for fashion he knew so well as a young man. No, you. Don’t said, and “You. then found his prey. look around. Did you enjoy this?” ” Before heading up the launch Scalamandre said Monday “It is a great opportunity to ex- through global beauty products,” said Susetka. Additionally, Scalamandre will have a hand advertising campaigns, in Avon’s “to ensure the message is con- sistent with brand-building efforts,” he added. of Prada Beauty four years ago, Scalamandre had held senior marketing positions Revlon, where most recently she with was senior vice president of marketing for Almay. Under Scalamandre, Almay’s retail sales grew 36 percent in 1998. that the power of the Avon brand, the company’s philan- thropic programs and the opportunity to apply her mass and prestige market experience, drove her to the decision. pand my own horizons and to work — Arnold Scaasi Arnold — Avon Avon has hired Here’s a piece of advice about

If you are going to do this do to going are you If “Jill is going to be here to help “Jill Scalamandre succeeds Vir- Jill Scalamandre, general But service aside, a healthy ego is at the heart Now, that’s Now, an awfully diplomatic answer com- But aren’t they difficult, the students asked.“I “If you are going to do this and work on a one- “You have “You to remember what you’re doing is a and work on a one-on-one a on work and you customers, your with basis people. like really to have drive Avon’s drive global Avon’s beauty agenda, which includes a comprehen- sive strategy as well as developing and marketing our break- ginia Pagetti, who had been vice president of product development, but with an expanded role, said Susetka. Pagetti will become vice president of marketing trans- formation in Brazil, a Latin American initiative to link marketing and supply chain efforts. Scalamandre Headed to Avon to Headed Scalamandre NEW YORK — manager of Prada’s beauty arm, Cosmetics International Distrib- ution, is joining Avon April 1 as group vice president of global marketing. She will report to William Susetka, presi- Avon’s dent of global marketing. away Prada Beauty’s senior executive. “ of most designers who have had as long and as successful a career as Scaasi, who, at 71, is active still with his custom design studio and employs a licensing agent, whom he pointed to in the crowd, looking to strike a new ready-to-wear venture. He’s even designing a gold gown for Joan Rivers to wear during her annual Academy be a bit overbearing himself. By his own admis- sion during this hour-long course, Scaasi advised the students never to deal with underlings, but always to go straight to the top if they ahead, want like to he did. get Back in when October, FIT hosted a Scaasi retrospective had of its his career, museum staff up in arms by opening night, when an exasperated watching curator, the designer work the dignitaries as they filed through its re- volving doors, described him as a “ham.” ing from a designer who’s been known at times to think they’re all difficult,” Scaasi said, “but I love it.” think they’re all difficult,” Scaasi on-one basis with your customers, you have to really like people,” Scaasi kind said. of “You’re like a psychiatrist. Within 15 to 20 minutes, a woman you’ve never met before is standing in front of you half-naked.” service,” Arnold Scaasi told a class of 250 Fashion Institute of Technology students last week, an- swering a question about how he handles some of the notoriously demanding women he has dressed over the past 50 years. being a fashion coming designer, from the last expect it. place one might NEW YORK — Scaasi Tells It as He Sees It Sees He as It Tells Scaasi 12 2003 4, The Big Squeeze at Fashion Shows MARCH , TUESDAY WWD,

Over the top at DSquared… …slimmer at Gucci… …and scaled down at Versace couture.

Continued from page one Filip Arickx, who designs AF Vandevorst his wife, An Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti and Trussardi, said the up to $500,000 or more. Sure, there are still designers Vandevorst, and Samsonite also both denied the deci- situation isn’t nearly as dire. He thinks most fashion like John Galliano at Dior, whose extravanganzas reput- sion to skip a runway show was related to money. houses are cutting costs on internal waste like catering, edly cost millions to mount, and Dolce & Gabbana or D- “We felt it was time to do something different,” he while maintaining image-related expenses for shows. Squared, who have tried to revive the era of the super- explained. “We wanted to invite editors to see the film He said his sales in 2002 rose by 25 percent and rev- model by casting Naomi, Linda and Eva this season. But individually to get to know them. Doing another fashion enue in the first three months of this year rose by 15 per- the days of models not getting out of bed for less than show seemed a little impersonal for us now. We wanted cent. Small fashion companies might opt for presenta- $10,000 appear long gone -- at least for the younger pack. to establish human contact. And in the end, the film will tions instead of shows, Di Sarli said, but bigger industry “Everyone’s cutting — or at least being budget-con- cost just about the same money as a show.” players can’t afford to scale back show expenses. scious,” said one major fashion show producer, who spoke As for Samsonite, “The decision to do a presentation “Right now, if anything, they are investing more in on condition of anonymity. “It’s for all houses, big and small, has nothing to do with cutting costs — actually the pres- their image,” he said. and it hits very deep. We’re feeling the pressure. We’re entation at the Diana Majestic Hotel [in Milan] was very Others painted a similar picture. A firm that does being asked to find ways to save money across the board.” complex and cost even more than a show,” said Beppi lighting for some top shows said that it’s “business as With economic troubles compounding and political Fremder, president of Samsonite SpA. “We realized that usual” in Europe. “The houses want to have a good, uncertainty mounting, no one can afford to spend fla- we need time to explain our products — at least three image-enhancing show.” On the other hand, the firm grantly. Examples of cutbacks abound: Versace had thou- minutes per item — and that a 20-minute runway show is noted that fashion houses in New York had been more sands of roses strewn on its couture runway in 2001; last just not enough. Also, it’s harder to show our whole prod- budget conscious and had driven a hard bargain. season it showed 10 dresses in its store. During the men’s uct range, which obviously includes luggage and travel “They’ve been more directly influenced by what’s hap- shows in Paris in January, Yves Saint Laurent also went accessories, on the runway.” pening in the world right now.” for a small showroom affair, rather than rolling out its And while some houses will mount the same extrava- Whatever one believes, it appears that Europe’s big tents. And while Gucci covered its runway in white ganzas they always do, producers assure that suppliers smaller fashion names are tightening their belts the rose petals on Sunday, even its ceo Domenico De Sole will all have been squeezed for the best possible deal, from most. One Paris-based public relations agent said he had admits cost-cutting is his modus operandi these days. the guy who rents lighting equipment to models to hair and been scampering to pinch pennies for his stable of “I’m very guarded right now with budgets,” he told makeup artists. Negotiation is now the name of the game. designers. Among the cost-cutting measures he explored WWD just a few days ago. “I’m being very conservative Some of the changes might go unnoticed. Instead of this season were finding less-expensive venues and and seeing what happens with the war.” velour backdrops or seat cushions, a design house might shaving costs off makeup and models. And it’s not only the designers scaling back. Retailers go for cotton. Makeup artists and hairstylists may be asked “In recent seasons, there were a lot of sponsors that are keeping a tight rein on their travel budgets as well by to forgo having assistants. Or models might be asked to jumped on the fashion wagon,” he continued. “Being part downsizing their teams, shortening their stay in Europe show up one hour before the show instead of three. of a hot designer’s show was a way for them to get press or switching to less-expensive hotels. “It went from, ‘I want this. Let’s have it,’ to, ‘This is as and enhance their image. This season, though, sponsors “We actually are already quite frugal,” said Anne high as we’ll go,’” said the show producer. “The booker haven’t been so forthcoming. They had extra money, but Stordahl, senior vice president and general merchan- for Gisele doesn’t negotiate much, but models who aren’t with the economy in the state it is, they’ve been tightening dise manager at Neiman Marcus. “We always work with superstars are negotiated all the time.” their belts. They don’t have the money to throw around.” tight budgets.” To wit: One top modeling agent, speaking on condition Paris press agents who work with emerging designers A bigger concern for Stordahl this season is the strong of anonymity, said the top models are still generating the point out that they always watch how much they spend euro, which makes European goods more expensive at a bucks. “When a house wants the top girls, they’re willing on shows. time when consumers are increasing price conscious. to spend. It’s become a different story for the less well- “We’re not talking about the mega-productions some “We’re really challenging people [designers] to try and known faces. There’s some negotiating going on there.” of the big houses do,” said one agent, again speaking on hold prices, particularly on like items,” Stordahl said. Marco Macchi, director of Milan’s Riccardo Gay condition of anonymity. “We’re not changing anything, Julie Gilhart, vice president of fashion merchandise agency, which currently manages about 20 girls, said mod- really. To control costs more than we do already would at Barneys, said some of her store’s buyers shortened els’ salaries have been on the decline since the heyday of be close to impossible.” their trips to Europe, but more out of concern for the 1999 and 2000. He estimates that overall salaries have Another agent in Paris expressed similar sentiments. current world situation than out of cost considerations. dropped about 30 to 40 percent from those swinging years. “Let’s just say we’re not spending less than usual. But “Our motto has always been that you’re to come in, do He noted, however, the fashion houses still vie for the we’re not spending more than usual, either.” The agent your stuff and go home,” said Gilhart. “Maybe our cost fresh faces, even if only the big houses have the pointed out that some of the most costly aspects of stag- cuts ame beforehand.” resources to hire the ultrafamous. ing a show include hair, makeup and models. “We can As for the brands, their attention is turning to the lit- “The rest of the companies have budgets that are con- limit costs to about $35,000 for a show,” the agent said. “As tle things. Even if cost is rarely cited as the reason, the tinually shrinking,” he said. “That forces them to use for models, many of my designers get girls to walk their fact is more companies are bypassing the runways this new girls that cost less.” shows for free, or a reduced fee, just because the girl time round. In Paris, Christian Lacroix, Gilles Rosier, “Certainly there are lower budgets,” said a Milan- loves the designer. That type of behavior used to be even Kenzo and AF Vandevorst are skipping the season, while based hair and makeup agency that will do 30 fashion more prevalent. A model like Pat Cleveland used to cry to in Milan, Samsonite and Genny were among those hold- shows there. “When it comes time for [fashion houses] to be in certain shows. But that passion for fashion is fading. ing presentations instead of shows. A Prada spokesman give us their deposit, we discover that they’ve found It’s pure business for most of the girls.” said the Genny move “had nothing to do with cutting some other solution.” — With contributions from Amanda Kaiser and costs. We are repositioning the brand and thought it was Enzo Di Sarli, who runs Milan-based makeup and Luisa Zargani, Milan, more effective to hold a presentation.” hair agency Face to Face, which counts clients such as and Miles Socha, Paris WWD/DNR CEO RETAIL/APPAREL SUMMIT FASHIONING THE FUTURE

NEW MARKETS. NEW CONSUMERS. NEW THINKING.

To all Retail and Apparel CEOs,

On June 3–5, 2003, Women’s Wear Daily and DNR will host the seventh annual CEO Retail/Apparel Summit: Fashioning the Future: New Markets. New Consumers. New Thinking.

The meeting will be held at the Four Seasons Hotel in Washington, D.C., and will build on the valuable and focused business perspectives gained last November in New York City. As a group and as an industry, we are making the move from the Stock Exchange to Capitol Hill — at the right time and for the right reasons.

Your business growth depends on mastering the new realities of the marketplace — from borderless manufacturing and international branding to receding trade barriers and emerging consumer markets. Your company’s strategy needs to take into consideration the latest intelligence from inside and outside our industry, and from inside and outside our country. This is what our summit will offer.

A Washington location will ensure a turnout of powerful decision makers from the worlds of business, government and finance. These two days of thought leadership, best-practice case studies, business-building ideas and high-powered networking guarantee high takeaway value for small, medium and large companies.

New ideas and focused information move your business forward. See you in Washington.

SAVE THE DATE • JUNE 3–5, 2003

WWD/DNR CEO Retail/Apparel Summit Four Seasons Hotel, Washington, D.C.

Register by calling (212) 630-4779 or e-mailing [email protected] 14 International Fashion Fabric Exhibition 2003 4, MARCH , U.S. Firms Take Global Approach

TUESDAY By Joshua Greene At IFFE, Glantz said he will bring fabrics — which run in NEW YORK — Faced with mount- price from $4 to $25 per yard — WWD, ing competitive pressure, U.S. geared to both spring 2004 and fabric resources have struggled to fall 2003, since some of his cus- evolve, extending their produc- tomers work with retailers that tion reach overseas and develop- buy closer to season. U.S. Silk ing new business strategies. will have about 50 percent of its That evolution will be on dis- spring collection, though Glantz play at next week’s International said he’s constantly adding to it Fashion Fabric Exhibition, where as trends develop it. in addition to offering fabric for “If somebody goes to the fall 2003 and spring 2004, vendors Oscars in April and there is a also plan to pitch themselves as geometric print, we’ll be doing importers and providers of com- geometric prints,” said Glantz. plete apparel packages. “Our customers are both big and The show, which is to run small so we try to cater to both. March 11-13 at the Jacob K. Javits We’re just waiting to pick up on Convention Center on Manh- trends ourselves, we’ve seen a attan’s West Side, will also feature lot of sheer fabrics this spring.” a larger number of foreign ven- Glantz and other fabric vendors. Show manager Amy Bonomi dors said they’ve faced a little in- said that the number of exhibitors Fabric exhibitors preparing for next week’s International crease on the price of some of at IFFE is expected to be evenly Fashion Fabric Exhibition said they have extended their reach their materials as a result of the divided between foreign and do- overseas and are increasingly dabbling in garment production. rising cost of petrochemicals. But mestic companies. vendors said they wouldn’t try to A pavilion of Turkish produc- pass those new costs along, partly ers, called Turquality, will fea- because they are small enough to ture about 40 mills producing You’d better be able to come to your customer and say, absorb and, more importantly, be- fabrics and trims. It was organ- “ cause their customers wouldn’t ized by CNR, a Turkish trade ‘I can give you something domestically or I can source accept them anyway. show organizer and is the latest “There’s nothing across the international trade group to something just like it overseas.’ board where there’s been a have joined the show. Other ” — John Irwin, Malibu Textiles price increase,” said Arnold pavilions are to feature suppli- Kobelt, president of New York- ers from Japan, Taiwan, China ly can be bought for $3.95 in profits be spilt among three par- come to your customer and say, ‘I based converter Nipkow & and South Korea. Taiwan, for example. ties: Malibu, its domestic re- can give you something domesti- Kobelt. “There’s a push for rais- According to show manager While the grouping of laces sources that helped to develop cally or I can source something ing prices from mills, but they’re Amy Bonomi, domestic compa- that Malibu will have on hand at fabric designs and its potential just like it overseas.’” struggling to get it. And getting it nies represent about half of the IFFE is not the company’s own foreign suppliers of those fab- Malibu prices run from as increased when customers are exhibitors at IFFE. designs, Irwin said Malibu is rics. However, Irwin contended low as $1 a yard up to $13. The used to something is difficult. At next week’s show, New looking into producing some of the three-way split would be jus- outsourced products will be There are so many alternatives York-based lace converter its copyrighted designs overseas tified by the much larger rev- priced from around $2.50 a yard to the types of fabrics we use Malibu Textiles Inc. will pre- in the future. enue potential in selling to the up to $5. Even when the price of that it’s risky for a mill because miere a small group of lace the Malibu currently develops pat- major brands that produce ap- a domestically made fabric and they’re afraid we’ll source it company sourced overseas. This terns with its domestic resources, parel overseas. a foreign-made fabric is similar, somewhere else.” is a new step for the company, as so Irwin said he’s still working “This will definitely open up Irwin said other factors can Kobelt said he has noticed it has previously bought all of its out the details with his suppliers avenues,” said Irwin. “Every- drive a customer to opt for the more and more companies in the merchandise from domestic on whether Malibu would be al- body’s got to work new deals. foreign product. When garments textile industry are moving over- lace manufacturers. lowed to produce jointly devel- We’re finding new ways to source are being made in Asia, the seas to source or manufacture Malibu president John Irwin oped fabrics overseas. our product so we can continue to shipping cost and time of send- due to pressure from retailers to said that lace that costs $5.95 Producing the fabrics over- sell product. The big business is ing fabric from the U.S. is a keep prices down. He said if he per yard to produce domestical- seas would likely require that offshore, so you’d better be able to competitive disadvantage, he can’t meet the right price, he will said. He contended that price source overseas to meet the de- isn’t the sole motivator to his mand. The only other choice customers, whom he said will would be to forfeit the order. It pay extra for fashion versus a “We also have to go to China commodity product. and do it at competitive prices,” STRETCHES “To make lace domestically said Kobelt. “But we still bring in and ship it to Asia becomes cost ideas, designs, fabrications, finish- prohibitive,” said Irwin. “And es and techniques. We’re all trying the real majority of the industry to keep our little slice of the pie.” wants their garments cut and Michael Steiner, president of sewn in China. In order to do New York-based print converter that, they have to have re- Michael Miller Fabrics LLC said sources in the Far East.” he’s noticed a price increase in New York-based U.S. Silk cotton fabrics. He said that’s Inc. has also started to work off- probably inconsequential in the shore. It has begun to offer full short term though, since it’s wide- garment packages. To do so, it ly available and increasingly pro- has started working with duced in cheaper labor markets Vietnamese apparel contractors. including China and Pakistan. “Instead of customers in the Returning to IFFE after sit- old days or even just a few years ting out several shows is Ascher ago that would buy 1,000 yards of Studio Inc., a New York-based silk, now they’re saying, ‘Sell me manufacturer. The company is the silk garment,’” said presi- also celebrating its 25th an- dent Elliot Glantz. “We’re defi- niversary. Fabrics from Ascher nitely a fabric company, but we Studio generally run between $4 LA LAME, Leading Manufacturers of Stretch Fabrics have to be in the package game.” and $8 per yard. presents U.S. Silk is currently offering Owner Peter Ascher, who An Innovative New Collection of Knitted and Woven Fabrics garment packages out of often works closely with his cus- and Trims Made in France and the USA Vietnam and has expanded its tomers to develop prints and ability to make harder pieces, fabrics, said he would prefer Delustered Satins • Moldable Polyesters • Microfiber Knits • Crepe Jerseys • Metallic Sheers such as styles with beading. It working a little closer to season. Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossed and Puff Prints on Toulles,Chiffons, Denims, Satins “I think the best ideas devel- Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Sheer Ruffles,Velvets and Rhinestones had started out in garments by making simpler items, like basic op from trends and sitting down Please Contact Glen Schneer,Vice President blouses and dresses. and having coffee with the de- [email protected] • www.lalame.com Since the company began signers,” said Ascher. “If you do selling garments eight months a collection based on what you LALAME,Inc. 250 W. 39th St., New York,NY 10018 • Tel:212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 ago, that business has grown to believe, it may not be in tune Los Angeles: Robert Becker. • Tel: 310.505.5488 • Fax: 310.450.3742 represent about 10 percent of with what the market wants, and sales, Glantz said. then you’re jeopardizing sales.” 15 WWD, TUESDAY Vendors Ponder Quota Watch: Turkish Gambit , Quota’s End at MARCH urkey’s parliament last week voted down a U.S. PRODUCT QUANTITY USED QUOTA LIMIT USAGE TO DATE* Korea Preview Trequest to use that nation as a staging area for a Cotton trousers 389,230 dozen 2.8 million dozen 13.9 percent northern front in the potential war against Iraq, but some 4,

NEW YORK — 2003 The slow Turkish officials are pushing the parliament to reconsider. Pajamas 159,508 dozen 8.1 million dozen 11.9 percent market in the U.S. and prospects for quota-free A multibillion-dollar economic aid package that includes Knit shirts and blouses 924,654 dozen 8.3 million dozen 11.2 percent textile and apparel trade breaks remains up for grabs. business were top topics of Cotton trousers and shorts 712,223 dozen 8.1 million dozen 8.8 percent conversation when a contin- The delay has stranded U.S. ships loaded with military gent of 21 South Korean tex- equipment off the coast of Turkey — the U.S.’s 12th- Duck fabric 4.27 million SME 63.6 million SME 6.7 percent tile manufacturers came to New York last week to show largest supplier of textiles and apparel. In 2002, apparel Cotton coats 31,784 dozen 564,562 dozen 5.6 percent their wares. and textile imports from Turkey rose 22.6 percent to Korea Preview, an exhibi- 1.68 billion square meters equivalent and represented a Dresses 67,051 dozen 1.3 million dozen 5 percent tion of spring-summer 2004 2.8 percent share of the U.S. import market. Here’s a Synthetic spun yarn 168,747 kg 3.4 million kg 5 percent fabrics, ran Feb. 25-26 at the look at how quickly quota is being consumed in Turkey’s New Yorker Hotel on West SOURCE: DONALD FOOTE, DIRECTOR OF THE AGREEMENTS DIVISION AT THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE’S OFFICE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL. 34th Street. apparel and textile categories this year: SME: SQUARE METERS EQUIVALENT. * USAGE TO DATE IS AS OF FEB. 24 Alex Kim, assistant manager of Motionheads Co. Ltd., a Seoul-based maker of polyester and rayon fabrics intended for women’s suits, contended: “The textile business in the U.S. is struggling, but our business is not soft.” He said that in the past three to four years, the company has repositioned itself and changed its marketing approach.As a result, rather than aiming to ship its fabrics directly to U.S. manufacturers, the company now concen- trates on selling to customers that manufacture outside the U.S. It now ships most of its orders to Guatemala and Indonesia, where they are sewn into garments and then "We can shipped on to the U.S. constantly “The textile make new things. business in But we can’t make the U.S. is a new world." struggling, but Kentaro Matsuura, trade relations, our business is born 1980, Japan not soft. ”— Alex Kim, Motionheads Co. Ltd. While South Korea has a well-developed textile industry, its makers have faced intense price competition in recent years. Last year, the nation was the U.S.’s sixth-largest supplier of imported textiles and apparel, as measured in dol- lars, according to U.S. government data. While its shipments were up 46.89 percent on a volume basis, they were off 1.7 percent in value, which is strong evidence of price deflation. Kay Lim, manager of the overseas business at Daegu, South Korea-based Song I Textile Co., said price competition has become a major factor in her business. “It is very hard because Korean product quality is very good, so the prices are high,” she said. The company’s focus has been “keeping the quality high and being as competitive on prices as we can.” "Changing the world doesn’t have to be a big thing. It can be just one small thing." She said her firm looks forward to the dropping of Introducing one small thing. Ingeo™ fibers. Made from annually renewable resources like corn, Ingeo quotas among World Trade helps reduce our negative impact on the Earth. Combining the performance your customers demand Organization nations in 2005 with a feeling perhaps they have been missing. Hope. By reducing man’s negative impact on the planet, because that will allow them Ingeo intends to change what people wear the world over. We welcome partners. Discover all the to lower selling prices. She said that quotas today repre- reasons to be one: www.ingeofibers.com or 1 800 66 INGEO (USA) or +1 989 633 1746 (Worldwide). sent about 10 percent of The world’s first man-made fiber from 100% annually renewable resources. their selling price.

™Trademark of Cargill Dow LLC 15305 Minnetonka Blvd Minnetonka MN 55345 16 International Fashion Fabric Exhibition 2003 4, Impala Industries’ brown, ivory Nipkow & Kobelt’s pink Sequin City’s gray, silver and and red polyester and spandex. polyester and spandex. blue silk, polyester and rayon. MARCH , TUESDAY WWD,

D&N Textiles’ pink and black polyester.

Malibu Textiles’ brown and ivory nylon, rayon The New Hues and Lycra spandex. NEW YORK — This month’s IFFE will offer buyers lots of color in a variety of ways. From punchy prints on crisp cotton and more traditional floral looks colorfully displayed on silk to the more romantic feel of burnouts and laces and knits with a play on texture, exhibitors at the show have all the points covered. And don’t forget about shine, it’s still around for spring 2003, with sequins on silk and touches of metallic in both laces and prints.

Pine Crest Fabrics’ red, white and blue Alexander Henry Fabrics’ multicolored cotton. nylon and spandex. Exotic Silks’ multicolored silk.

Ben Tex’s multicolored acrylic, polyester and nylon. T GILBER A DANIEL Y G B IN plin ns UR n •Po waiia AT Satee s •Ha E on ok STYLED F •Cott ge Lo ts W enim inta &Prin NO oy •D rals •V olids ordur ls •Flo nim S H:C opica •De lets HINSEE; RETC s •Tr uroy •Eye C ST veltie •Cord oiles S: No Dyes nts •V RINT :Yarn &Pri EW P ONS Solids N T GEORGE COT nnel CUSTOM DESIGN • PRINTING • DYEING Fla Y INTERNATIONAL SALES AND SHIPPING B 129 WEST 132 STREET • LOS ANGELES • PHONE: 800-877-2066 • FAX: 800-788-5283 NEW YORK SHOWROOM: TEXTILE ARTS MARKETING • 40 WEST 37TH STREET #802 • PHONE: 212-868-9040 HOTOS P 17 Textile & Trade Report WWD, TUESDAY

European Stretch Fabrics’ ,

green, purple, MARCH blue and silver Tactel nylon, polyester and Lycra spandex. The Long Stretch 4, 2003

NEW YORK — Striped fabric will have an added bonus Sarti’s brown linen, nylon and spandex. come next spring: stretch. European mills introduced a variety of stripes in both stretch wovens and knits at last month’s Première Vision in Paris. This, said exhibitors, was in response to buyers who continue to be on the hunt for the look in both bottomweights and shirtings. Many of the offerings were neutral in tone — with lots of brown, khaki and ivory — and featured subtle pinstripe effects, while others had thicker, more vibrantly colored lines, some with metallic touches.

international

Jackytex’s beige, ivory and black fashion fabric linen, rayon and Lycra spandex. exhibition Fashion Starts Here! March 11-13, 2003 • Jacob Javits Convention Center, NYC

DON'T MISS OUR CUTTING EDGE SEMINARS INCLUDING:

TUESDAY, MARCH 11, 2003 2:30pm 11:30pm 9:30am COLOR AND TREND RIGHT ISSUES THE EDUCATION OF FASHION LEGACY: SPRING/SUMMER 2004 FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2004 Timothy M. Gunn, Parsons School of COLOR AND TREND FORECAST Carol Meek, President, Color Portfolio, Inc. Design The American Trend & Color Committee Lisa Mainardi, Director, American 3:30pm 1:30pm Trend & Color Committee THE POWER OF TRENDS SPRING/SUMMER 2004 COLOR & Roseann Forde, Dupont VIA THE INTERNET: HAVING IT TREND PREDICTIONS Paul Pelssers, Paul Pelssers Ltd. Ben Gomes, Vice President of Creative Aiale’s beige, ‘NOW’ AND MAKING IT ‘WOW’ Roseanne Morrison, The Tobé Report Eva Brune, Senior Editor, Fashion Services, OPR/The Style Center black and white Sharon Graubard, ESP Trendlab Snoops, Inc. cotton, polyester Pat Tunsky, The Doneger Group 2:30pm and spandex. 4:30pm DEMYSTIFYING FASHION 10:30am FASHION SALES, MARKETING FORECASTING – CONVERSATION INPRINTS NY SPRING/SUMMER AND MERCHANDISING IN THE AND REFLECTION 2004 FORECAST Neville Bean, Owner, Neville Bean Design Lisa Mainardi, Director, Inprints NY DIGITAL AGE Jennifer Phillips, President, Stylesmart 3:30pm 11:30am ATMOSPHERES - SPRING/SUMMER 2004 WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 SPRING/SUMMER 2004 AND ESSENTIALS FALL/WINTER 2004/05 FABRIC Pat Tunsky, Creative Director, The 9:30am Doneger Group SPRING/SUMMER 2004 – TREND PREVIEW THE TOP TEN TRENDS Ornella Fila, Creative Director, Italtex, SRL David Wolfe, Creative Director, Represented By Hanna Cohen 1:30pm Design Products SPRING/SUMMER 2004 TRENDS, The Doneger Group COLORS AND KEY ITEMS Roseanne Morrison, The Tobé Report 10:30am SPRING/SUMMER 2004: COLORS, FABRICS, SILHOUETTES Britt Bivens, Promostyl

To exhibit call: 888.964.5100 or 917.326.6237 • To attend call: 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792 Visit us online at www.fabricshow.com or email: [email protected]

Produced by Advanstar Communications, Inc. 18 Textiles & Trade 2003 4, MARCH , The Long Stretch TUESDAY WWD,

Tessilgrosso’s khaki and white linen, wool and Lycra spandex. Christina by wimwear S

Reggiani’s brown and beige cotton, nylon and Lycra spandex. SWIMWEAR Toyobo Closing 3 Japanese Mills CASUAL By Tsukasa Furukawa in other Asian countries, Toyobo noted. “The business environment surrounding the TOKYO — Citing continuing competition from Japanese textile industry is changing at a speed INTIMATES other Asian manufacturers and the ongoing far beyond imagination,” said a company state- weakness in the Japanese economy, Toyobo Co. ment. “We must say that unless a further drastic said it plans to close three of its six domestic tex- structural reform is implemented, recovery of ACTIVEWEAR tile mills in June. our country’s spinning and weaving industry The closure of the three mills by Toyobo, one will be in difficulty.” of Japan’s largest textile manufacturers, will re- Toyobo said it was compelled to close the duce its spinning capacity here by 53.7 percent three mills despite the strenuous efforts the HOSIERY and its weaving capacity by 62.5 percent. company has been making since 1990 to restruc- Like many other Japanese textile mills, ture its natural fiber textile business operations, Toyobo, has been moving its production to over- enhance its marketing power and cut produc- seas markets in past decades. After the closings, tion costs. The business environment surrounding the Japanese “textile industry is changing at a speed far beyond imagination. We must say that unless a further drastic structural reform is implemented, recovery of our country’s spinning and weaving industry will be in difficulty. — Toyobo” Co. statement

the Osaka-based company will have two-and-a- The mills to be closed are: half times as much spinning capacity, and six The Komatsujima mill works in Tokushima times as much spinning capacity outside of Prefecture on the southern coast of Shikoku Japan as it has in it. Island, which has 129 workers, 32,256 spindles Imports of cotton textile products to Japan, and 142 looms. which accounted for 87.5 percent of Japanese The Fuchizaki mill works in Kagawa domestic market consumption in 1999, rose to Prefecture on the northern coast of Shikoku, 97.7 percent in the first half of 2002, Toyobo said. which has 39,020 spindles and employs 70 people. Factors leading to the falling demand include The mill works in Miyagi Prefecture north- the continuing drop in personal consumption, east of Tokyo, with 27,696 spindles and 79 work- which stems from the prolonged slump of ers. Japanese business; a continued decline in the Some equipment from closed mills will be percentage of household income devoted to ap- moved overseas, while the remainder will be 125 HARTWELL STREET parel; the depression of prices from increasing scrapped, Toyobo said. A portion of 142 looms will FALL RIVER, MA. 02721 competition from imports arriving from China be moved to the Shokawa mill works in the Japan and other Asian suppliers, and a diminution of Sea coast prefecture of Toyama, Toyobo said. (508) 674.3585 x1386 competitiveness of Japanese products over im- There will be no layoffs, Toyobo said, ex- www.radicispandex.com ported products because of improvement in plaining that employees in closed mills will be product quality and apparel-making techniques relocated to other Toyobo facilities. 19 WWD, TUESDAY Picchi’s multicolored polyester, rayon, acetate and spandex. , MARCH 4, 2003

Schoeller’s ivory nylon and Lycra spandex.

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2003 Katharine

4, Hepburn in “Tea Diversity Rules N.Y. Hotel Shows at Five.” MARCH , By Joshua Greene showroom to house the eveningwear and of a style suite that addressed trends and bridal collections by the end of the featured looks from several vendors. A NEW YORK — The latest round of hotel month in time for bridal market. slicker image for Atelier was also evident

TUESDAY trade shows in New York covered a wide Separates continue to play an impor- in new graphics found on preshow mail- range of apparel categories and price tant role in the eveningwear category and ers, press material and its Web site. points. There were elaborately beaded were on hand at Lady Vivienne and Arend. Overall, trends at these two shows are WWD, gowns in one room and minimal gowns in Meanwhile, daytime looks for MOB and difficult to grasp as many of the design- Pantsuits Take Broadway matte jersey in the next; daytime suits in Ladies Who Lunch were well represented ers consider themselves artists working NEW YORK — Suits have become a stand-in for wool blends next to mother-of-the-bride at Lourdes Chavez and Abigail Kate. with a cloth medium. They don’t try to many women, but a new off-Broadway show, suits in satin, and slinky cocktail dresses Chicago-based resource Mark Heister forecast or chase trends, such as what “Tea at Five,” puts pantsuits in a starring role. hanging with eveningwear separates. — who showed at Designers at the Essex the latest skirt length is or what the next The show is based on the life of Katharine American International Designers at House Feb. 22-27 — is better known for hot color will be. Hepburn, who adopted trousers the way some the Waldorf-Astoria took place Feb. 22-26. his dressy daytime looks, but is venturing Highlights at the show, however, in- women acquire jewelry. Kate Mulgrew of The show is best known for its elaborate into beaded eveningwear separates, ac- cluded a handprinted, lime green satin ki- UPN’s “Star Trek: Voyager” fame breezes eveningwear from designers such as San cording to vice president Linda Heister. mono from East Hampton, N.Y.-based de- through the one-woman show’s first act in a Carlin, Michael Casey, Pesavento and Strong examples of this look include black signer Amy Zerner, Austrian boiled-wool custom-made ivory pantsuit and the second Peter Langner. However, London-based pants at $350 wholesale, a black jacket at coats from Provincetown, Mass.-based de- act in Donna Karan beige pants pared with a newcomer Eavis & Brown gave the show $470 and an oyster beaded jacket at $620. signer Mary Deangelis starting at $169 preppy ensemble. some diversity with her folkloric-type Heister’s bell-sleeved tunic with a wholesale; New York-based Susan Costume designer Jess Goldstein said he gowns and bustiers. Eavis & Brown whole- button shoulder and fancy collar was a Unger’s silk chiffon poncho and fur- drew inspiration from Hepburn’s men’s wear- sales for $225 to $2,000. strong look for day at $390 in a gray cash- trimmed wrap coat at $120 and $760, re- inspired outfits in “Philadelphia Story,” But that didn’t mean the show’s main- mere-wool blend and $450 in the char- spectively, and Harding Design Studio’s “Holiday,” and “Woman of the Year.” stays didn’t still have some tricks up their coal angora-cashmere blend. silk evening jackets. Just as Hepburn worked with wardrobe beaded sleeves. San Carlin’s silk chiffon At Kevan Hall, the designer’s matte Meanwhile the 350 vendors at Nouveau designers at such studios as MGM and RKO paisley gown for $1,365 was an eye-catch- jersey gowns continue to be a staple of Collective — held at the Park Central to soften the men’s wear looks she favored, er and was an example that the design the collection since their entry price at Hotel Feb. 22-25 — took up seven full Goldstein made a point of adding feminine duo knows when to offer some less-con- $550 wholesale is popular among buyers. floors, the hotel mezzanine, as well as the touches like saddle stitching and bell-shaped structed styles. At Atelier and Pacific Designer Collec- ballroom. While the floors were grouped pants legs to Mulgrew’s attire. He also gave Langner strolled further away from his tion, which were held together at the by sector — eveningwear, California her high-heeled, cadet blue Capezio sandals bridal roots by designing more evening Rihga Royal Hotel Feb. 22-24, an in- brands and sportswear, for example — and an ivory straw hat with a heart-shaped separates, such as a Murano-beaded creased marketing push on behalf of which helped to steer buyers in the right brim, reminiscent of the Adrian bridal hat evening jacket for $3,300 wholesale. The Atelier show management attracted sever- direction, the range of merchandise was Hepburn wore in “Philadelphia Story.” red satin strapless gown with beaded whip- al new vendors. wide and not always well edited. “Today that would be like a man wearing a stitch trim was also a hot item at $2,040. Since the show takes place on several “We saw everything and we got a little skirt,” Goldstein said. “But she just did it to be While strapless is tough for this market, floors of the hotel, buyer circulation has bit out of the shows we saw, even though it comfortable.” Langner offered a matching red satin been a problem in the past. To address it was exhausting,” said Marsha Posner, vice Goldstein, who is also costume designer for bolero jacket for the more discreet crowd. Atelier show director Susan Summa put president of JP International Fashion, a the new Broadway show “Take Me Out” and the Langner said he is looking to double the check-in on one floor and the show New York buying office. “However, I wish forthcoming “Enchanted April.” “Tea at Five” his U.S. eveningwear business this year office on another and offered goodie bags some of the shows had a more definitive opens March 9 at the Promenade Theater. — it currently represents about $120,000 to ensure buyers would make it to the viewpoint of what type of stores they — Rosemary Feitelberg and is sold in five stores — by opening a lowest floor. There was also the addition would like to attract.”

WWDThe Magazine WWD The authoritative first look at the collections. The Magazine

MOVERS/SHAMOVERS/SHAKERSKERS Issue Date: April 7

’ King McQueen’ in Paris Close: March 10

Gallianos Bollywood Blowout

’ Billion Dollar’ Babies Cavalli s Feminine Mystique A buying guide and trend report IN THE FLASH read and relied upon by retail decision-makers

Who Said What for the upcoming season, plus the country’s

’ Who Went’ Where most affluent consumers. Bleckners Runway Customized bonus distribution: Neiman Marcus In-Circle customers, Barnes & Noble, select newsstands in New York, San Francisco, Miami, Los Angeles and Chicago, plus the SPRING WWD Specialty Store Network. 2003 AN EVENEVEN DOZDOZENEN The Top Twelve For more information, call Ralph Erardy, Senior Vice President, Group Publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. Collections WWDMediaWorldwide® 21

32 percent, with the value of $218 to 5,700 from about 9,400. Dollar do it, we want to get the bugs out and tower should be ready by the end of WWD, million, down 26 percent. figures are converted from the yen at roll out what works into American 2006. The new luxury hotel, which is — Tsukasa Furukawa current exchange rates. stores, most likely in 2004,” he said. scheduled to bow in mid-2005, will

Mizuho Corporate Bank Ltd. and To help out in Japan, Barron partnered have 118 rooms over about 14 floors TUESDAY STILL EXPANDING: China’s gross Mizuho Asset Trust & Banking Co. with franchiser Link International to and will be called The Landmark domestic product, which grew an said in a statement they will release co-manage the business. Mandarin Oriental. Both Mandarin estimated 7.9 percent in 2002, is Seibu from its debt in the amount of Joie’s global expansion continues Oriental Hotel Group and Hong Kong ,

expected to remain one of the world’s $1.2 billion, while eight other banks in Europe, where it already sells in Land are part of the Jardine group’s MARCH fastest-growing economies this year, will forgive the remainder of debt London. Recently, Joie signed on new holdings. — Constance Haisma-Kwok although at a slightly slower rate. based on a procedure outlined by the European distributors in Spain, Italy, ASIA WATCH According to a study by the Institute Japanese government. Creditors also France, Belgium and Germany. NEW FASHION: There is fashion MORE FROM CHINA: China’s man-made of Developing Economies of Japan approved the selection of Shigeaki — Nola Sarkasian-Miller outside of Tokyo’s Ginza and Aoyama 4, fiber production in 2002 increased External Trade Organization, China’s Wada, currently president of Sogo after all. Shinsaibashi in Osaka is 2003 20.1 percent from the previous year to GDP will grow 7.6 percent in 2003. Department Stores and formerly GROWING LANDMARK: Hong Kong attracting attention as an upcoming 9.91 million metric tons (21.8 billion China’s economic growth last year president of Seibu, to head Seibu as Land, the biggest commercial landlord fashion capital in the western part of pounds), according to the Japan was led by favorable export and president and chairman. in Hong Kong’s Central district, has the country after Comme des Chemical Fibers Association, a investment performance, the institute The reorganization plan calls for announced plans that will see the Garçons opened a unit there in national organization of fiber said, noting that the nation’s inflation the stabilization of Seibu’s financial redevelopment of its most popular January. Its newest store is close to producers. Polyester fiber output rate was estimated to have decreased structure, strengthening of the alliance retail center. The Landmark, home to Louis Vuitton, Gianni Versace, increased 22.8 percent to 7.72 0.4 percent. between Sogo and Seibu, and pretax two high-rise office towers and a low- Salvatore Ferragamo and Cartier in million metric tons (17 billion Elsewhere in Asia, the study profits of $130.8 million on sales of rise annex block, also boasts five the district and Giorgio Armani, pounds), which broke down into 2.95 forecasts GDP growth in South Korea $3.67 billion in fiscal 2007. — T.F. levels of high-end retail space that Dunhill, Max Mara, Hermès, Chanel, million metric tons (6.5 billion in 2003 at 5.5 percent, 0.5 includes such tenants as Gucci, Tiffany and Marc Jacobs are within pounds) for staple, up 23.2 percent, percentage points below 2002’s level; EAST MEETS WEST: The Joie girl is Christian Dior, Valentino, Burberry, walking distance. A Benetton store and 4.77 million metric tons (10.5 in Taiwan, 3.3 percent (versus 3.2 taking on the world and has added Tod’s and Marc Jacobs. The changes also recently opened in the area. billion pounds) for filament, up 22.6 percent last year); Hong Kong, 1.7 retailer to her résumé. Vernon, Calif.- are expected to add more retail space, About 150 people queued up in percent. Production of nylon rose 12.9 percent (versus 1.2 percent); based contemporary label Joie, which, including a purpose-designed front of the red-painted two-story percent to 475,000 tons (1.05 billion Singapore 3.2 percent (versus 2.3 according to sources, is on pace to hit department store, and will include the Comme des Garçons store on pounds), while acrylics moved up 11.3 percent); Indonesia, 3.2 percent $25 million in its second year of addition of a boutique hotel operated opening day. “Merchandise which is percent to 594,000 tons (1.3 billion (versus 3 percent); Thailand, 5 percent sales, will open its first boutique by the Mandarin Oriental. popular among young customers, for pounds), the association reported. (versus 4.6 percent); Malaysia, 5.8 March 15 in Tokyo’s trendy Aoyama Analysts here are lauding the example Junya Watanabe Man Pink, Meanwhile, apparel imports by percent (versus 3.9 percent); the district on Minami-Aoyama street. facelift plans as necessary in a tough is one of the bestsellers we have Japan declined 5 percent in quantity Philippines, 4.2 percent (unchanged Rivaling the pricey Ginza district, the and crowded property market. Hong seen since opening the store,” said in 2002 to 2.98 billion pieces worth at 4.2 percent), and Vietnam, 7 shopping area is home to Comme des Kong Land currently oversees nearly Osamu Kawakubo, managing director $15.7 billion, down 6 percent in percent (versus 6.9 percent). — T.F. Garçons and will boast Prada and five million square feet of office and of the brand. value terms, according to figures Tod’s by the summer. Joie plans to commercial space — much of it Osaka, which has a population of released by the Ministry of Finance in SEIBU’S PLAN: The reconstruction of stock its white store accented with aging, with The Landmark itself built about 2.5 million, “has four major Tokyo. China continued as the nation’s the financially troubled Seibu hanging polished chrome fixtures with in 1980. The recent opening of such shopping areas: Umeda, Abeno, dominant supplier, accounting for an Department Stores took a major step its full collection of denim jeans, silk high-profile towers as the 88-story Nanba and Shinsaibashi,” said 89.4 percent share of total imports. forward last week as creditors cargoes, suede skirts and leather Two International Finance Tower is Kimihiko Kitagawa, chief of the Chinese shipments came to 2.67 approved a reorganization plan jackets. Jewelry, belts and European providing competition to The district development team at Daimaru billion pieces, down 3 percent, valued formulated by the Japanese retailer shoes will round out the mix. Landmark in a sagging economy. Department Store in Shinsaibashi. at $12.7 billion, down 5 percent. Italy and its main bank, Mizuho. The plan In spite of Asia’s economic blues, Hong Kong Land chief executive “Shinsaibashi has just started to form came second with 11.86 million includes debt forgiveness of $1.92 cofounder Sean Barron said the brand Nicholas Sallnow-Smith said that The the luxury brand shopping district.” pieces, down 8 percent, worth $786 billion, the sale of four subsidiaries has a cult following in Japan where Landmark redevelopment is expected — Koji Hirano million, up 5 percent. After Vietnam and liquidation of 10 others, four it’s sold at Barneys Japan and Isetan. to cost around $210 million. Retail Editor’s Note: Asia Watch is a new and South Korea, the U.S. ranked additional store closures and, by fiscal “Opening retail is a very risky space completion is slated for regular feature looking at develop- fifth with 18.55 million pieces, down 2007, a paring down of the workforce proposition in America, so before we between 2004 and 2005; the office ments in the Far East.

Chico’s Gralnick Duo Gets Ready for Pazo

NEW YORK — With 11 months left Helene and on their contract, Chico’s founders Marvin Gralnick Marvin and Helene Gralnick are devoting their time to developing the new Chico’s offshoot, called Pazo, according to Scott Edmonds, president of Chico’s. In an overview of the company Wednesday at the Bear Stearns Retail, Restaurant and Apparel Conference here, Edmonds said Pazo will bow in March, with 10 openings in warmer climates, including Scottsdale, Memphis, Houston, Los Angeles, Atlanta and Boca Raton, Fla., and has formed product and field teams, separate from Chico’s. He described the Pazo merchandise as European-influenced casual, active, career and intimate apparel With the Gralnicks departing styles, with an average item price in about a year, Edmonds suggest- point of $40, though the range is ed there’s a smooth transition at from $14 to $118. The merchan- the company. He noted that Pat dise is geared for 25- to 35-year Murphy, senior vice president olds, whereas Chico’s targets and chief merchandising officer, Baby Boomers, has a median cus- has become “the product person” tomer age of 53 and an average as the Gralnicks wind down their ticket price of $50. Pazo will be involvement with the Chico’s competing head-to-head with chain. But he also said that the Express. Gralnicks aren’t about to disap- Although the company is ex- pear completely. “I don’t foresee panding its reach via Pazo, any time when they won’t have an Edmonds said the $531 million influence,” he said. Chico’s chain still has legs. “We Later, sources at the confer- don’t feel we are running out of ence said Edmonds is the un- room for Chico’s. This is a mon- sung hero at the chain, responsi- strous niche that’s not being ble for successfully managing paid attention to, other than by Chico’s phenomenal growth for department stores.” some time now. Pazo has poten- The Florida-based firm plans tial too, but it will be a couple of a net of 70 to 75 Chico openings seasons before it gets past the this year, and opened 67 stores test phase. last year. — David Moin 22 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up Call: (212)302-0166,Fax:302-0175 Bryant PkDuplex1100,2000,4500FT. WE BUYCLOSEOUTSOFGENERAL BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS MERCHANDISE FOROURSTORES Made toorderonallknits+corduroy Office/Showrm-Great Deals! BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYClistings 20 FtCeilings-GreatWindows/Views CLOSE OUTSU.S.OREXPORTS AND ALSOSTOREINVENTORIES. Allan Gallawa Peter [email protected] Terry -FrenchDazzleMesh We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 3,000 sq.ft.-Sub-lease,$21/ TOP DOLLAR FOR SHOWROOM ANDOFFICESAT: 42 West38thSt.bet.5&6thAve. apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Showrooms &Lofts RETURNS,IR’S OR SoHo-Sublet Penthouse2000FT T:800-996-4469 F:800-540-2784 Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail Closeo ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 Drake Fabrics.718-389-8902 WALT ADAMSINC IMMEDIATE PAYMENTS 212-564-3606 WEBERS 2 1/2yrs.leftonlease. bu CLOSEOUTS FAX: 212-564-3236 TYE DYE y @waltadams.com

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Fax resumewithsalaryrequirementsto: with rate W experience prior and Some writing skills. good communication detail with person dependable, oriented responsible, designer seeks footwear leading for Licensee einr Immed Designers akaayi olcin ihall with possess must collections charge Indiv. stores. & dept. & major analysis factoring back checking, credit rience. Faxore-mailresumeto: tation. PleasehavesomeOrientexpe- sketching toembellishmentpresen- RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 DESIGNER/Daytime Dresse SusieJessil Photoshop 7,Illustrator,10,Sketching DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN ASSISTANT Admin. Asst./Receptionist (Job 1)WovenTops2)Sweaters mn Immed dmin DESIGN DIRECTOR l ersosbefrassigdesign assisting for responsible be ill ith salar bookkeeping, Receivable Accts. ith ho candevelopgroupconcepts,from Designer -Freelance r/xe ut aaycommensu- Salary must. a ord/Excel Accts. Receivable Credit Manager/ ASST. DESIGNER [email protected]

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[email protected] 212-382-3623 516-484-8770 DESIGNER y y (212) 594-7720 y Fax: 212-354-1224 histor @winstonstaffing.com [email protected] Call212-947-3400 SHOWROOM WILL TRAIN 212-751-3336 AS/400 y y at: to: (212) 575-4899 310-559-4519 ut Fabric must. a 212-869-7508 y .com x g e s s / aho upir.T etorclients our meet To European suppliers. top fashion to services management - 2-3yrsexp.inasimilarposition. - Understandingofacctsreceivables. organiza- personal tion, notafraidofadministrativework. and Multitasking - - Italian&French,spokenandwritten. - Customerserviceoriented. their - Collegelevelcommunicationsskills clientele, our agents andourcollectionteam. between Interface 2. VendorRelationshipManager at Experience experience. - Italian&/orFrenchlanguagesaplus. yrs factors aplus. with 3-5 dynamic, - be must college levelcommunicationskills. Individuals - with - Fastpacedenvironment. experienced manager orient- apparel boutiques. service credit customer ed, Organized, - 1. CreditManager growing demandsweseek: W FINANCE omn /x.Pes mi your email Please resume to:[email protected] w/exp. benefits & clients organize Salary commens literate. w/ detail-oriented, computer be interact & Must to hair req’d. Ability & merch. Merchandise jewelry a for w looking costume is co. accessory trendy Jr MERCHANDISER Immed Merchandiser you Sweater talented If Designer, wewanttomeetyou. thinking, level. young a Designer are the established well at join company to opportunity Rate Call (212)643-8090orfax:643-8127(agc *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80-100K Pleas benefits. Fax orE-mailallresumesto: & L.I. salary base Hicksville, Excellent in Located ufacturing. man- and accounts between production to individual organized j & motivated seeks a Manufacturer Headwear Fashion * (JuniorSweaters,topsorSleepwear) *DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER$125K (Mens,Womens&Childrens) *ACCT EXECS...... $65-150K (SupportTopLevelExec) *ADMIN ASSISTANT...... $50-60K (HighendMadisonavenueStore) *STORE MGR...... $60-100K (OpptysinbothMensandWomens) *DIRECTOR OFSALES...... to$125K (ExpwithWovens,KnitsorSweaters) *PRODUCTION...... $25-42K (JuniorInspiredalsoDenimandYM) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-55K (ExpwithNEDGRAPHICSorU4IA*) *CAD DESIGNERS...... $35-70K ToddWa Apparel Staffin literate. Judy*JustMgmt*800-544-5878 GROMWELL GROUP 1)Designers &Assist:Boy-Girl-Jr2)Artists 3)Production Mgrs&Coords4)TechDesigners i u ae em oriaesales Coordinate team. sales our oin Photoshop-Illustrator-Maj AccessoryCo’s Menswear MfgRetail$110K Graphic Designers(3) RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER (Womens SweatersorWal-Martexpa Please faxoremailyourresumeto: Jr. SweaterDesigner i.3ysepi cesr design accessory in exp yrs 3 min. / edn n experience and with printsisaplus. embroidery, beading of work environment. to Knowledge paced able fast a be in de- & of exp. years sign 10 creative of Must min. & team. have design talented to person to a looking add co. sportswear suits & dress, Established Well Vendor Relationship Fax resume:212-944-5127 rvd rdtisrneadA/R and insurance credit provide e (When appl Designer JOBS Boys/girls logos,prints,computer an Please call212-972-9300ore-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Credit Manager& HANDBAGS CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: g E-mail: [email protected] ela@ y Please sendresumeto: Graphic Artistto$60K [email protected] Call212-947-3400 [email protected] jud MERCHANDISER Fax: 720-294-4831 Flexfit (212) 840-7803or 516-932-6260 Manager y y y ing, pleasespecif @justmgt.com g, upoon Ltd.Fax(212)302-1161 g caps.com .... $50-80K y job) +) y d e ) r / / ’ ae.Ms aekoldeo knowledge have Must prodn bet liaison sales. to able & be shd skills, be computerliterate/detailoriented. exp. 2-3yrs have Must delivery. final to oeatn n ucaigapu.Fa plus. resume withsalaryrequirementsto: a purchasing planning, and forecasting in Experience motivated. self strong v possess strategies, merchandising pro- years promotional grams, 5 developing least at experience have ideal should The candidate team. management the compli- ment talented to a professional seeking merchandising is in Virginia, based northern (700+), chain salon Multi-unit Retail Link-Walmart $Open Retail Link-Walmart To $55K Coordinators $75K Managers-Knits salary Production Immed & resume your fax requirements to Pls a Chinese/Bilingual plus. 5 experience. with years coordinator production sweater seeks Manufacturer/Importer Midtown re- salary. w/ resume Fax o quirements to:(212)465-8122 sense and urgency. skills computer specing, communication daily up, w produc- follow in assist tion to ind. seeking oriented detail co., outerwear children’s Busy fast- a in well work computer paced, high-volumeimportdeptreq’d. to and Ability oriented literate. detail details. to be production experience seeking Must yrs all 2-4 company follow-through with outerwear individual Large & knit of w phases all on w up Follow skills computer over- good and someletterofcreditexperience. in shipping, knowledgeable seas communi- skills, good cation have Must motivated highly Manufacturer individual. and & organized Importer seeks paced Fast exp some levels kidswear expnecessary. and all Comp seeks production. co Import kids NJ Maj PROD ASSTS/COORDS problems. background, prod fit specs, resolve Blouse do W and samples, F/T. cut/sew exp. comments to very for ability seeks Importer person Blouse Career pressure. Excellentcommunicationskills. Merchandising Directo SusieJessil Production Coordinato ToddWa PROD’N PATMKR$60 ToddWa PROD’N MGR$45-55K PRODUCTION ASSIST COORDINATOR ASST. Resume AttnRuthNally201-894-1186 PRODUCTION $50-60K PATMKR MENSWEAR$60-75K A.D. FORMANASSOC. FASHION NETWORK201-503-1060/Fax1070 ra n rte klsadb very be and skills written and erbal Production Assistant Production Assistant KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS oesa edr,wgo olwup follow w/good vendors, /overseas & market/overseas better in orking development from production, oven r ucl n fetvl under effectively and quickly ork 450 7thAve.(AGCY)268-6123 Q/C $100K+-&KidsProd’n$50K Wal-Mart/JC Penney.Mustknow PATTERNMAKER PRODUCTION (2) * Wal-martExpertSleepwear resumebox2003@ yahoo.com [email protected] PDS GerberSilhouette2000 Fax resumeto:212-594-3999 Fax resumeto646-435-7411 Fax resumeto:212-768-7725 e-mail [email protected] All vendorProd’nProcess Please e-mailresumesto: PRODUCTION einn n xctn visual executing and designing * EyewearCompanyPro y Relocate Philadelphia y Or faxto212-674-1617 [email protected] Call212-947-3400 [email protected] or212-947-3400 Bi-Lingual Chinese y 703-846-8569 [email protected] Call212-947-3400 201-871-9800 212-398-7647 OPEN$ K r r x f f A onalcto,poesn shipping processing break- allocation, down size purchasing/coordination, uthv salse eibevendor reliable & established have Must fyuaepro okn o growth for looking must. person a are Excel opportunities, pleasefaxresumeto: of you knowledge Comput- If pants. literate, product and er woven offices. outerwear & of including factories knowledge overseas Tcchnical with cation oiiain.A xesv computer extensive skill isimperative,specificallyExcel. An releases/delivery notifications. documents/bank processing, order seeks w purchase manufacturer include Responsibilitie individual. dress detail-oriented Leading npouto,ptenaigand patternmaking production, garment construction. in hav Must candidate seeks w co. manufacturing Major years 4+ trims. & yarn similar experience.Fax: fabric, for base exe- for cuting Responsible seeks Manager. house Sourcing design retail women’s based NY or fashion plus. Previous a experience sary. neces- skills Computer opportunity. growth work productio and multi-task Position & to w able sales environment. be Must paced detail- team. a fast assisting is includes a who work to in organized graduate and motivated seeks oriented, college Manufacturer Sweater recent P.L. Import and Westchester retail great benefits. NYC, key NJ, Long Island.Musthavecar.To$30K& merchandise in col- to stores for grad looking lege Corp. Eyewear Lantis Bilingual- challenge. someone a for required. Chinese/English aplus.Faxresumeto: opportunity abilities seeking technical negotiating Unique Must Strong develop production. product. and to source team of and merchant handle aspects w/ line partner gift all men’s to in and for furnishings goods home soft/hard aggressive manager garments, licensed seeks production company Diverse EXEC ASSTTOPRESIDENT....40-60K SALES ASST/A.E...... 35-80K PLANNERS...... 50-85K FABRIC SOURCING(mens)...... to85K PRODUCTION...... to 55K r&al owr neednl.Grea independently. work to able & er W [email protected] orfaxto SCOURCING MANAGER Production/Import Asst E-mail resume&salaryrequirements SENIOR MERCHANDISER Home fashionexp.FarEastfactories. Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 (201)766-7717. Secaucus,NJhomeoffice. For theseandmanyotherpositionscall: l ne rsue utb emplay- team a be Must pressure. under ell t i 0yaseprec.Communi- experience. years 10 min ith isha Cowart212-730-8432 r npoesmitiec,trim maintainence, process in ork Retail Merchandiser MNS SPORTSWRBUYER...... to180 SPEC TECHNICIAN Sales &Production Has many SHOPPING SPREE Fax resumeto:212-941-0114 or Allen *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 PRODUCTION Temp toPermopportunities:

E-mail: ad aaigErpa sourcing. European managing & to: hrjoblist@ The followingisasample: 212 7042041 Sourcing Mgr.to$130 MANAGER r.patclexperience practical yrs. 3 e "ON THEMARKS" [email protected] "ON THEMARKS" Email resumeto Assistant Permanent, Temporary& 212-643-0593 y @necob a eue Attn resume: Fax , Att:ERIC y ahoo.com 212-869-7508 j .com K n s t 23 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 / / R - . y 213-627-2025 [email protected] y In these days of people in all territories. NOVELTY KNIT TOPS - retail store and/ or campus MODERATE TO BETTER mind w/excellent technical design skills. Please Fax to: 212-944-3652 or sell throughs in majors Seeking ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** book store sales in all territories CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc 2 divisions of Troy Fashions Inc. E-mail: [email protected] Fax resume: 212-575-3838 attn: HR ith intimate apparel contacts at ishes to expand its already solid client Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC Seeking regional - commission sales SALES/MDSR - Private Label/Branded ALL TERRITORIES AVAILABLE 150+ college licences. Track record of regional - commission sales people for LINGERIE SALES REPS PRODUCT SELLS ITSELF! Call: 212-744-2561 or Fax: 212-744-0564 COMMISSION SALES COLLEGIATE JR GIRLS’ SPORTSWEA TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Track record of sell throughs in majors department & specialty stores. skills & senior level Webment Design/Develop- NY based, bilingualtechnical (Mandarin) designer jewelry for FT/PT.ative Very cre- High Volume Knit/Wovenexp Sales Pro in w leading the Orientincl JC Penney seeks NEW OPPTY. selling Catalogers/Retail the nations Accounts, Ladiessearching European for independentw Sales Lingerie Reps Co. is Upscale mfr. of updatedw silk fabric line base. Seekingfor motivated No. SalesCanada. Fax resume to: Calif., Reps Midwest, Southeast & , l y y w In its upcoming TV ad cam- The ads, due to break March That approach goes pretty The campaign will be Diesel’s The ads were filmed in Spain Diesel’s New Ads New Diesel’s Woes Oil Strike NEW YORK — rising gas prices amid increased Mideast tensions, some people might be wondering what to do an oil shortage. in the face of paign, Diesel offers a suggestion: Auto lovers can just push their cars around. It’s a good solution for the environment, if not for the back. 17 and run through mid-April, de- village pict what happens in a tiny of auto enthusiasts that runs out of oil. smoothly until one car goes out of control, smashes into a pole and, improbably, strikes a gusher. The return of oil changes life in the village and irrevocably, according to a Diesel statement, is intended to raise the question of whether technological progress is also good for society. first on TV in three years. There are three versions of the ad, in 30-second, 60-second and 85-second lengths, that are to appear on cable channels including E!, Comedy Central, VH1, MTV and MTV2, as well as during select prime-time network TV shows. by the Dutch ad agency Kessels- Kramer and directed by Johan Kramer. RSON ahoo.com y basics.com y — and Steven ahoo.com y sethi@ 212-764-7245 warned the y , sweeping sls@ Salesperson — Greg Lindsay _ sales@bell SALES - JR’S Lisa Grace SALESPE Please fax your resume to: SALES POSITION SALES ASSOCIATE SALES EXECUTIVE ill only consider applicants with 3 al-Mart, Kohl’s, Target, May, Federated oven fabrics seeks self-motivated ear and outerwear company seeks JCPetc. We offercommission excellent pkg. salary Fax resume and information w/ to: salary 212-398-7647to nbtim or e-mail salesperson. Candidateyrs must experience,skills, have good be 2 communication knowledge highly of organized Microsoftresume Office. w/ and salary E-mail have to [email protected] history in confidence indiv. to sellstores & to specialty specialtyself-motivated, stores. chains, High-energy, dept with desire to grow. [email protected] BELLY BASICS, thematernity leading brand apparel, in organized, is lookingexpand hands-on business. forto Perfect an individual work opportunit closelyinvolved with to in DirectorsMust and all be beselling aspects able ofaccounts. Res. & sal requirements to: strategies business. to develop to creative open ne Established manufacturer ofw high-end Large apparelseeks vertical sales executivesonly. manufacturer - Must heavyW have hitters strong contacts with Dynamic sportswearan company aggressiveNYC seeks showroom. salespersonEmail: mann Fax: for 212-869-5047 or their Growing import juniorizes co that in special- enced bottoms is salesperson.tacts seeking an Mustchains, etc. experi- with have Dep’t con- stores, specialt Leading contemporary leatherw sports- W years or more in contemporaryer or leath- markets,tive compensation no and extensive exceptions.fits bene- package. Competi- requirement Fax to resume 212-840-8155 or and E-mai salary d Christie Hefner Arthur Kretchmer based. , they form a Maxim-ized trinity at benefits & Kaminsky presumably has the added another former Kaminsky’s 212-967-6812 plus. Warm & magazine’s profits would be flat in 2003 magazine’s “due to severance and other costs associated with the transition of editorial jobs from Chicago to New York.” sources close to the magazine. sources and illustrations trademark Playboy’s help date it cartoons (which full-page will largely be to an eternal 1977) instead confined to swept away and high-resolution fiction. And the used for decades to studio cameras will finally be retired shoot Playmates mobile models — in favor of more girls might finally meaning that the limbo of the studio venture out of the world. and into the real mandate from Hef himself after his winning a power struggle with co-editorial supposed mentor, director him aside in a matter of months rather than the intended year. Kretchmer is now on “a permanent vacation” from his duties at the magazine, and has been sunning a himself in Florida, according to only expected to drop source. He’s in on its Chicago offices from time to time as a consultant while Kaminsky runs things from New (Kaminsky could not be York. reached for comment, and Playboy spokeswomen declined comment.) Maxim colleague to his inner circle — new managing editor together with deputy editor Russell the top of the masthead. The top editors and writers still in Chicago will be joining In Playboy them sometime this year. Enterprises’ most recent earnings release, ceo req. to: y Alexei Sales Assistant EVERLAST Fax resume 212-391-2460 and . Condé FABRIC SALES Please forward resumes to: Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, Sears, May WORLDWIDE INC. Great Sales Oppty! ord & E-mail knowledge a must. omen’s novelty better-bridge knit top Boys’ Division Sales FUR SALESPERSON [email protected] or fax: 212-221-3825 ery fast paced environment. Excel, James Sales Mgr./Merchandiser Down Outer/Sportswear [email protected] or fax: 212-239-4261. Leading brandeddetail company orientedorganizational seeks & communication person skills to a with assistadministatrative strong the duties.dle sales Able multiple tasks to team and han- in work well a in daily a friendly environment. Salary, v W 30K plus benefits. W rep for our NYcontacts Showroom! at Must dept have est’ &good specialty communication stores & &skills. organizational have Computer skills a commission negotiable. Send resumes: Fantastic opportunity tochildren’s join wear a manufacturer. reputable Seeking an aggressive, highlypro to motivated join our sales sion, exciting must new have Boysget, present Divi- contactsCo., at or Tar- other majoranalytical, financial retailers. & Mustplus computer have the skills and ability execute to salesExcellent plans. think N.Y.C. growth strategically Fax resume/salar opportunity. Please Minimum 5relationships years with experience. dept.chain stores. Fax resume: 212-840-8511 Strong and specialty Top import/domestic converterstock with large inventorygetic seeks pro experienced tokid’s markets. Team player a must. call ener- on missy, junior, men’s & Upscale furexpand manufacturer distribution. Looking seekingrienced for to expe- salesperson foroperations. showroom and Salary basedtions. Fax resume to: 212-967-5271. on qualifica- co. is looking for an aggressive sales “We’re going much Steven Klein Matt Tyrnauer — Samantha Conti and J.B. is leaving on his staff. ,” said Playboy fashion director Perhaps the most welcome change But Kaminsky has ordered more Nast declined comment. KAMINSKY’S COUP CONTINUES: new regime has begun to Playboy’s in make its mark on the magazine nothing, the April issue, but there’s that compares with the marks so far, that editorial director Kaminsky is an upgrading of the magazine’s have fashion pages, which, as of April, eight been permanently expanded to a new focus on per issue. There’s service and grooming products, and a serious attempt is being made (finally) to lure brand name photographers. “I’d like to use Health, seemed not to be available. seemed not to be Health, situation are close to the But sources in fact, the to say that, now beginning and that, if possible, race is wide open actually prefer to Condé Nast would editor to replace bring in an American “It would be much easier,” Cooper. within Condé Nast. said one source were seconded by Those comments GQ, who said at the sources at British “The overwhelming end of last week: has not been offered feeling is that he the job yet.” Meanwhile, another has possible (but longshot) contender Fair begun to make the rounds: Vanity editor at large Hay Joseph De Acetis. more fashion forward in the photography and getting some big names in these pages.” significant design and photography changes to be made by this summer that were originally supposed to take according to more than a year, Account Executive Dave For consideration, please fax your resume to: Jennifer at (212) 391 4327 Nicole Miller isSales looking for ahandling seasoned Executive department/specialtyto cultivate stores with newaccounts. and maintain existing experience Candidatesstrong must customerand possess service,benefit and incentive package. management follow-up, skills. Excellent Dylan Art Cooper w/ 3-5 : with 7 — Jacob Bernstein When , editor in chief of Men’s 212-764-6912 attn: President of Sales , the editor of British GQ. That But reached by phone late Monday, But reached by phone know Gary “I don’t really even Back to the other Wolf: “That is Fax: 323-589-0342 Please fax resume indicating position of interest to: SALES EXECUTIVE: SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - APPAREL really enjoyable, but he still lives it. I but he really enjoyable, go to lunch you want to mean, would the and at Michael’s every day a just course, he’s Century Club? Of the an employee like columnist, he’s did tell me he’d rest of us. But he Magazine if it York like to buy New block.” ever went on the memory of it all. Wolff had little all. I “I mean, that’s Wolf,” he said. same barely know him, we have the He’s name. Did he write for Wired? right? He not a very good writer, wrote a book? I don’t remember I had having lunch with him. Maybe lunch with him and another person. I think I may have met him a couple lunch of times. He was involved in a don’t with a couple of people, but I really know him. I would not recognize him in a crowd.” a putting you on. That’s hilarious. He’s you brilliant response.” So you mean did have lunch? “Three-to-four weeks the ago, what can I say? I think that’s funniest response I could have myself imagined. I would never present as a close personal friend, but I’ve known him for years, we’ve had a half- dozen conversations. It was just the two of us, we discussed the book at length — and he professed to be a big fan.” BUY AMERICAN: word traveled resigned last Monday, through media circles that the most likely replacement would be Jones opinion was emboldened by the news in the middle of the week that Zinczenko E-mail: [email protected] SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - ACCESSORIES SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - PRIVATE LABEL Sweater/Seamless Mfg Co seeks: Excellent opportunities to join today’s contemporary leader 2 Exciting Positions yrs exp.dept stores Existing & specialtyExcell. salary pkg w/ commission avail. contacts stores a w/ MUST. major NY SHOWROOM/SALES MGR yrs exp. l R Gary Michael New York 212-869-7508 ellowriverinc.com

y [email protected] y

MOPAD FOUNDATION won an ASME last year for won an ASME last ToddWa . His new book “Wired — A . His new book “Wired Fax resume to: 212-695-7548 “He’s a little bit like somebody “He’s ears similar exp. Fax:

y ME TEXTILE STYLIST ith background in womens apparel ith excellent communication skills. TD SWIMWEAR $65K Technical Design Associate who wanted to be a movie producer and wound up a gossip columnist by instead,” the one-f’ed Wolf said is phone. “I actually think his column a gossip smarter than that. It’s column and a parody of a gossip column all rolled into one, but he is I actually called obsessed with power. him a few weeks ago to have lunch with him because I wanted to give him a heads up about the book. I knew getting him to go downtown for lunch would be difficult so I decided He said, ‘Can’t we just have to try. lunch at my club?’ He explained how the Century Club was so exclusive a friend of his got denied entrance. Which was a great source of pleasure kind of a likeable to him. I think he’s shtick, it’s guy and if you get that it’s Magazine’s media columnist Magazine’s Wolff moguls, deconstructing beleaguered has come along to but now someone Wired writer deconstruct him: Wolf Romance,” which will be released tells through Random House in July, the story of Wired Magazine from at struggling as an indie to struggling Condé Nast. The book will feature Wolff, whom Wolf met during the temporary ascent to net former’s moguldom, in a cameo appearance. the (Wolff owned Wolff New Media in mid-Nineties and later wrote the critical success, “Burn Rate,” about the early days of the dot-com bubble.) ONE TO WOLF(F) ANOTHER: 212-302-1856 / office@ TECHNICAL DESIGNE Textile importer seeksw creative stylist NY based women’s designdetail house oriented seeks Tech Designer& with effective clear communicationsponsible for skills. fits Re- fromtion proto and to all produc- specs.overseas Must and have exp. outside4+ with pattern makers. of patternmaking, gradinga must. Fax /E-mail resume to JF at: and computer Established privatelooking label for company highlyw organized is individua prints. Experience inCAD prints, pitching, overseas mill work necessary. work, layouts, repeats, & Qualified candidate mustyears have experience issuing 3uring garments, specs, to fit evaluation meas- and 5 municating com- detailedries. reports to Mustexcellent facto- follow-up be skills. detail Knowledge oriented. with