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Turtle Power Seek Inspiration from a Patient and Persevering Creature on North Dakota’S Maah Daah Hey Trail

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Turtle Power Seek Inspiration from a Patient and Persevering Creature on North Dakota’S Maah Daah Hey Trail great escapes by Jennifer chesak » photos by mike calabro The author crests a butte in the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. turtle power Seek inSpiration from a patiEnt and pErsevEring crEaturE on north dakota’S maah daah Hey trail mblazoned on wooden posts that mark 97 miles of bentonite single- terminus about 15 miles south of Wat- track winding through western North Dakota is a pictogram of a turtle, ford City—it loosely follows the ropey a symbol of the Mandan Indians. The turtle represents determination, Little Missouri River, traversing Theodore E steadfastness, fortitude and longevity—all moral fibers you’ll hope for Roosevelt National Park along the way. as your muscle fibers tackle a land that’s not described as hilly or mountain- President Roosevelt, who came to the area ous—it’s just called “bad.” in 1883 and later ranched there, described the parched, warped terra firma best: “The Completed in 1999, the Maah Daah Hey type of clay), flashes of brick-red scoria Bad Lands grade all the way from those that Trail (pronounced exactly how it looks) and coarse, tall prairie grasses. It crests are almost rolling in character to those that zags through the Badlands. It cuts switch- the tops of sun-scorched ridges, reveal- are so fantastically broken in form and so back-style up the sides of mammoth ing vistas of fire-colored canyons. From bizarre in color as to seem hardly properly buttes, covered with white bentonite (a its trailhead in Medora—to its northern to belong to this earth.” Trailrunnermag.com december 2010 14 great escapes saddle Up ■> HaPPy TRails. Enjoy stunning views on a guided trail ride. Call Medora Riding Stables at 1-800 MEDORA-1. ■> Ready To Ride. Want a horse with suspension? The Maah Daah Hey and its connecting side trails are top notch for adrenaline-pumping two-wheeled adven- tures. Rent from Dakota Cyclery, www. dakotacyclery.com. ■> Cowboy legeNds. Prefer to stay out of the saddle? Check out the region’s history at the North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame in Medora. ■> Cowboy CouTuRe. Dress up your saddle at Medora’s Corner Corral, End of the Trail, Ticket Junction and Joe Ferris General Store. epic journey; generals and warriors fought bloody battles on this ground; and, mil- lions of years ago, dinosaurs once called the contorted hills home. The area’s his- tory is thicker than the heady scent of sagebrush, and a run over the land will channel your inner warrior. Draw from the patience and steadfast spirit of the turtle—yet hopefully move a bit faster than the shelled creature—and take on the ultimate distance. Do so in one extremely adventurous day or split it up into shorter jaunts. While motor vehicles are not allowed on the Maah Daah Hey and most of it is very re- mote, several points intersect with roads, so meeting up with a support crew is possible. Four campgrounds between the trail- head and the terminus feature potable water from May to December, but the campgrounds are 18 or more miles apart, so carry plenty of fuel and fluids to cover the distances between. The hot, dry des- ert climate can sneak up on you. ultra Warrior Be aware of the forecast, as rainfall can Maah Daah Hey, a Mandan Indian phrase, create flash floods and impossible mud. means “an area that has or will be around Plus, once the bentonite gets wet, it turns SW_TrailRunner_Nov_LL.pdf 1 9/14/10 10:54 AM for a long time.” Back in Roosevelt’s day— in to a cement-like material that will glob and long before then—the trail consisted onto your trail shoes until you’re essen- of broken sections of footpath used by tially running on bricks. Native Americans, hunters and fur trap- The path has gained popularity with pers who had settled in or were passing mountain bikers and equestrians, but for through the region. Thanks to the U.S. much of your journey, you’ll likely be the Forest Service’s endeavors over three de- lone ranger save for the wildlife you may cades, the trail became the nation’s lon- meet. Buffalo, mountain lions, coyotes, gest continuous singletrack. Now it has mule deer, bighorn sheep, elk and prairie grown. Expansion efforts extended the dogs consider the Badlands good living. trail 45 miles south of Medora and was Running competition might be a pack of completed this fall. wild horses. Don’t let them distract you Meriwether Lewis and William Clark from keeping an eye out for rattlesnakes Client: Smartwool passed2010 overImage Printthis Ads treacherous area on their and prickly-pear cactus. Also, buffalo can Pub: Trail Runner PS LL Nov Trailrunnermag.com may 2007 16 Date: 09.13.10 3.25” x 2.5” AD: JR SW_TrailRunner_PS_UR.pdf 1 9/14/10 10:54 AM charge at more than 30 mph, so keep chock full of regional culture—especially your distance. if you’re in the mood for some expert yo- Those not familiar with North Dakota deling. You’ll receive a free ticket for win- often consider it a flat, treeless, wind- ning your age group in the event. Client: Smartwool 2010 Image Print Ads swept and desolate region of the high This year marked the third race. Pub: Trail Runner PS UR Nov plains. Much of the eastern part of the Charles Black, 24, whose birthday gift to Date: 09.13.10 state is indeed flat, but the western slice himself was winning the 10K with a time 3.25” x 2.5” resembles mountains mangled by a ma- of 43:27:39, says, “It was easy for the first AD: JR chete. The elevation on the Maah Daah couple of miles. Then you get to those Hey varies from 2000 to 2700 feet. switchbacks, and it just feels like you’re A few longer climbs will ramp up your putzin’ along.” A recent graduate of the heart rate, but most are on the short side, University of North Dakota, Black works CloCkwise fRom lefT: plus plummeting canyon drops and flat as a Biological Technician in the north Andrea Grubb punches up the last incline for a dashes through wooded coulees offer a unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. strong 5K finish; David Wakefield holds off the bulk of the 10K pack; bentonite- and scoria- break from quad-busting hauls up buttes. He enjoys runs in the Badlands because covered bluffs provide the backdrop for the These switch-ups make the trail fun and the diverse terrain constantly challenges Badlands Trail Run. manageable at varying distances. him. “After the switchbacks, it was all “There’s a fair amount of evenness,” says downhill for a while,” he adds, “but then David Wakefield of Weyburn, Saskatch- we came back up and around the corner ewan, Canada. “You get a good feel for ev- and, oh, the wind!” erything, and the scenery couldn’t be bet- Andrea Grubb, 34, placed second in ter.” Wakefield fell in love with the Maah her age group for the 5K—missing first Daah Hey after visiting Medora on a road place by a mere three seconds. She was trip and returned to run the annual race. enamored with the painted canyons, twisted rocks and wildflowers she spied racing the hey out on the course. “It was tougher than The Badlands Trail Run takes place in late I thought,” she says, “but the trail and summer and includes an out-and-back 5K views are so inspiring.” and 10K. The race starts and ends at the A fan of escaping capital city crowds—if Burning Hills Amphitheater, the site of you can call Bismarck crowded—Denise the famed Medora musical. The variety Weeks, 45, often piles her two girls in the show plays every summer evening and is car in favor of camping, running and hik- 17 october 2010 Trailrunnermag.com SW_TrailRunner_Nov_Horz.pdf 1 9/14/10 10:53 AM Client: Smartwool 2010 Image Print Ads Pub: Trail Runner Nov Date: 09.13.10 8” x 1.5” AD: JR ing in the Badlands. She grabs post-run historical log-cabin-style shops and busi- in North Dakota,” she adds with a laugh. grub at Medora’s Pitchfork Fondue or the nesses provide the perfect backdrop for Whether you come for the race or to Chuckwagon Buffet, not to mention tastes impromptu shootout reenactments on the seek solitude out in the backcountry, af- of the ice cream and fudge found in the streets of the old cattle town. ter running with the turtle on the Maah boardwalk-lined shops. Medora has been Weeks earned first place in her age divi- Daah Hey, you’ll remember its mettle. preserved and restored to its Wild West sion in the 5K and says even though the You’ll remember how it challenged you roots, with original buildings from the town was full of tourists for the event, to have the courage to charge up yet an- late 1800s. The newly renovated Rough “We spread out during the race. When I other dusty incline, and when you’re out Rider’s Hotel, for example, first opened as was coming up to pass someone they just on your next run, perhaps in a less epic lodging in 1884 as the Metropolitan. Many moved to the side. But everyone’s so nice spot, you’ll channel its patience and de- termination again to power on. Racers brace for a mighty ascent of Maah Daah Hey switch- backs on the out-and-back course near Medora.
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