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U"N(;OLN UNlVERS1TY UBRAR1 S;'\N-rE:(~:t:~urf)'. ~~.Z.

MOUNT PEEL STATION 1856-1982

A HISTORICAL STUDY OF THE DEVELOPMENT OF A HIGH-COUNTRY RUN IN CANTERBURY, NEW ZEALAND.

Gillian Wilson B. Hort. CONTENTS

PART I: 6. Shel ter 7. Access roads PART I (A) 8. Technology INTRODUCTION AND LOCATION 9. Buildings 10. Weeds and pests 11. Runholders' attitudes PART I (B) PART II (C) NATURAL ELEMENTS INFLUENCING THE LANDSCAPE SUMMARY 1. Cl imate 2. Geology PART III: THE MOUNT PEEL STATION HOMESTEAD 3. Topography 4. Soil s 5. The natural vegetation of Mount Peel 1. Site selection criteria 2. The homesteads of Mount Peel Station PART I (C) 3. The Church of the Holy Innocents THE POLYNESIAN INFLUENCE ON THE 4. The homestead garden NATURAL LANDSCAPE PART IV: A PHOTOGRAPHIC SURVEY PART II: STATION DEVELOPMENT AND AGRICULTURAL PRACTICES AFFECTING THE LANDSCAPE APPENDIX PART II (A) EARLY STATION HISTORY BIBLIOGRAPHY PART II (B) AGRICULTURAL PRACTICES AFFECTING THE APPEARANCE OF THE LANDSCAPE 1. Burning and pasture development 2. Field sizes and methods of enclosure 3. Livestock 4. Crops 5. Forestry PARTI(a)

Introduction and Location 1 MOUNT PEEL STATION 1982 boundary line

SCALE I :b~3bO PEEL FORtST KEY PARk.. Xl[: Ranca;lalo. Gorse ~ """" River \:errace.~ ::>- 'S-\reQ.M8 = 1'18:1. ~ou.c-.ck-y l;re.,

2 Mount Peel Station is located in South of the homestead area specifically, inclu­ Canterbury, in the Rangitata River valley, ding the Church of the Holy Innocents, the about 6.5km from Peel Forest Park and about homestead itself and its gardens. 60km from Timaru, the nearest city. It In Part IV there is a small section of occupies the sunny, north easterly slopes photographs from some of the Acland family of the range of hills about Mount Peel, albums. Where possible, some of the land­ from the Rangitata River up to a level of scape photographs have been taken from about 1600m. similar angles to illustrate the change Mount Peel Station is one of the few large which has taken place over the last 100 stations in New Zealand to have remained years or so. under the ownership of the same family. It Throughout the history of Mount Peel Station was established in 1856 by J.B.A. Acland different practices have helped to create and C.G. Tripp, and since this date it has the agricultural landscape present today, been controlled by four generations of the and which, as part of the whole rural land­ Acl and family. scape, is so important to the increasing The size of the station has changed dra­ urban populations as a visual resource. matically during this time; at one time covering about 100,000 hectares, under joint ownership with Acland and Tripp. The sta­ tion today is only a fraction this size, occupying about 8,000 hectares and to be further divided in the future, with nearly half of this going to the Waikari Hills run. It will, however, still be in the family as the Waikari Hills run is managed by Mark Acland, the brother of John Acland who manages Mount Peel Station at present. (Refer to MAP 2) This dissertation looks at the history of Mount Peel Station and especially at the historical development of the agricultural landscape. Part I looks at the natural history of the Nount Peel region, while, Part II concentrates on the factors which have been instrumental in the development of the visible landscape in the area. Part III then goes on to discuss the development

3 2 MOUNT PEEL STATIO proposed boundary

SC.Al-E I: b;S'5bO KEY

lOt Ro~;l:al:.o. GO ....

4 5 Climate

In the diaries of J.B.A. Ac . , re is are the dryest months, during which less freguent reference to the 'nor'westers' a than 10 percent of the rainfall occurs. 'sou'westers', the two winds i t Mount Peel Station, therefore, generally considerable discomfort to set experiences warm, wet summers and cold, They are, perhaps, the most i dry winters. climatic influence on Mount Peel Sta The other form of precipitation on the The northwesterly wind, originall station is snow, which falls in varying thought to be from hot, dry Austra ia, amounts on different areas. The homestead is a Fohn wind created by the air stream is 305m above sealevel where it is common losing its moisture as it ses over to get about two'filll s of. snow, of abou~ Plains. Dl,Ie .Hslack sture, 75-100mm; e'ach year. Any snow rarely lles the wind is' and dry and often around roY"more than a'day' or so but there strong. does appear to be a trend for a good fall Th; s wi~d'wa$ ,also i.nd; rectly i t of snow of about 450-600mm every ten years to the res:idel1ts. at Mount Peel or so. it wasobservedtha,~ the qui cklj rose, to' 'f;loodd th is wi nd- occurred,.'\,-j \- obviously due ~o ,the ea's.e extra wa.tero,'ver the fdv,er,~ ca tchlTlen't in 'the Southern The southwes'te'rh is the sta predominant wind and often fo northwesterly. It is is brings most of the annual rainfall l105mm. t Peel Station's warmest mon s are January and February, and July are the coldest. The wettest man s are December a January, during these two 20 percent of the rain falls. July

land Papers, Cante i vers i brary

7 PHOTOGRAPH 1: The Rangitata River showing the steep north bank and the prominant series of river terraces. Ge~ogy

The Southern Alps and their associ places, the morraines, are still visible foothills, which abut the ry ains, today. Other signs of glacial action are the dominant landscape features in within the Rangitata area are, the lUI Mount Peel district. shaped valleys with their flat floors and steep ridges, also hanging valleys and Mount Peel Station covers a consider­ truncated spurs. able portion of the geological r­ mations in the area, from ver terraces The ridge above and to the west of the to alpine areas. Mount Peel homestead is the lip in front of In the beginning, sand, silt the glacier that occupied the mountain was washed in large quanti es valleys in the Rangitata district, up to and troughs of the ocean bed. Gra beyond Mesopotamia and Erewhon. faulting and folding processes The Rangitata River is the main snow fed a great range of alps ch, river in the Mount Peel area and in the past cyclic course of nature, were wo it has deposited large amounts of alluvium, upon by erosive forces, eventually re­ contributing to the formation of the plains. joining the sea bed. Its flood waters gradually cut the narrow Rangitata Gorge and dumped the gravel down­ e Southern Alps we see today are stream on the plains, where the gorge widened res t of a second similar 0 and water flow decreased. As the glaciers are, in their turn, being sl continued to retreat, the river lost alot of is erosion has resulted in its bedload and began cutting into the mation of the Canterbury Plains as we alluvial deposits to create the present, know them. prominent series of river terraces. ing the history of the present ran of alps there has occurred cyclic of glaciation with warmer intergl periods. There have been at least of these cyclic periods, the last one occurring about 14000 years ago. To­ gether, their action, has fa the present landscape of the district. The intense cold associated of glaciation caused rocks to and shattered by frost action, being carried along the deepeni valleys and their eventual s

9 3 MOUNT PEEL STATION location of topographical & cr.oss-sections

S (ALE I :63360 KEY Cro'Ss- :::sec'hoils \j~\ands

bownlonds

T ~rro.ce and lowlQ8\ds = 1'1'32 'Boundary I ;ne u: Ral\~;lo.lo. Gor~e Road

1'Tm" \(;'IIer terraces -:r- ';)-treams

10 Topography

The topography of Mount Peel Sta is These categories, and their relationships variable, covering the rela ve to soil and vegetation, are illustrated hills in the Mount Peel range, to in the following cross-sections, which the river terraces and the Rangitata river have been chosen to show the range of bed in the valley oar. Most of the topography throughout the station. land, however, may be classed as hi country and downlands, rolling ridges and spurs. The tussocky lower slopes of afford good pasturage, and are stay of the station as a co Although the valley oar is all riverbed, its alluvial ats are capable of yielding good crops of nter feed. It is possible to divide into three topographical areas i relate strongly to the geology of area, and which also influence soils found on the station. 11 sec- tion on soils has been categori es. The first area is the hig hill coun ich is to be found a the 760m contour. It s rac steeper hill slopes and deeper gullies. The second area is the lan 460m and 760m, and it contains are more rolling in nature slopes. Soil cover is deeper tation more varied, forest a in many of the gullies. irdly, there is the 1 a and ter­ race areas of the station. These incl the more gently sloping and le land as well as the Rangitata ver

11 FIG. 1: TOPOGRAPHICAL CROSS-SECTIONS OF MOUNT PEEL STATION TO SHOW THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN TOPOGRAPHY, SOILS, VEGETATION PATTERNS AND LAND USE.

A

I .• «««. I •• _::._:._:._. ,<::':'!--....---~""'t."-:: .. ;.:~ .. «.«...... -~~,:>., .. •• :...... : ••:: •• :...... : ••: •••••••••: .. : .. :... : ••• :.. : •••• :.. : ... w* : ... . ~ ••••• : •••••• : ••: •••••••••: ••••••••• : ••••••••• w- i~~I;'.~;(f!::"f:ff!:!!:!!i!ffi!!:ff:!!!:!!:!!if!!:!fffff:::!~ >~:~: ":-?t:.~;: i::::·::::::·::·:::; !i;j~.:::::.::.::::::.:: ::::, '-.(- . :~f~ .: •• ::.::.::~~~:: ••::.::.:: •• ::.::•• :.. ,a\U1ACt AHO ~~: ~·:.·:.·· .. ·.. · ..• ·.. ·:.· ... ·:.·:.·:•. ·:.·:.. ::.·I " ;:.. ':.:: •• ::.: .,*.:.* •• ::. ::.:: .:::.: :.:: •• ::.::. :: •• ::, LOW\.ANDS L.______------.~.~:~.~·~:~·~·~·~:~:_·~:~:.·~·~:_:~·~:~:~·~·~·~··~·~:~·L·~:~:.. ~.~:_.~.~:_:~.~:~:.• ~.~:~.~.~:~:~.~:~.~ ______--J ~a~~AL ~ 1~3l~

NATNE. \lE.(i,£.1~TtON

12 B

~ tl UI ~0 :> C} 02 ~ <~ ~ '= ~ ~ ~ T£R.R.bCf. AND \ , LowUNre.

SOIL£.

13 TERP.ACE. A.NI) LOWlANOS

14 1..-_I.(o._\'w_U_I"'_o.__ '!O_i_\~ ___ "_..w_IJ\_f\U_;_'!,_o_;_l1l>---l1..-.. ______1<4__ "'_.D-_hv. __ ~_i_~ ____ ---,) ~\L!>

~~~'-TF~~~----~~~~~~~~---.------.~----~~~n N~W~ VI:.GE.TAT I 01'1

15 4 MOUNT PEEL STATIO soils

$CAI..E. I: 63360 KEY

D Ral\'il°,'o.to. G«~e.~ 1f'T'71' \Z;'Je.!'" terro.c.~ ~ Ske.o.("I\'S .::.=. IQ'i1 ~~ \;~ i(rs 1<.0.\ koufo. ~G'\~ H \-\un..... u. -:.oi\~ I(G lZo.k.o..hu "to',\-:, Hlt I\ororo.\o. ~\~ fl\o.y I{t~ 'So,\~ ~o.;I'Nl"-.o.£°'l'i 'i!.O;\e

16 Soils

Mount Peel soils are related The following soil types will be dis­ topography of the area and the uence cussed under these three categories, as of climate (Refer to FIG. 2) it influences the uses to which the land may be divided into three categories can be put and, therefore, the present according to topography:- landscape at Mount Peel Station. A more detailed chart of various aspects, (A) Mountain soils relating to these soil types and their (B) Downs soils use, may be referred to in the appendix. (c) Terrace and bottom 1and soil s

FIG 2 BROAD RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN SOIL GROUPS AND CLIt1ATE/TOPOGRAPHY

UPLANDS

OS high country ye 11 ow broWn increasing earths precipitation intergrades RIVER TERRJ.l.CES decreasing yellow grey temperature earths intergrades recent soils ) J-\L TnUDE

is diagram is a very broad on Mount Peel Station fall, and climate and to help explain the relations ips the topography. Not all of the soil types men­ soil groups, into ich the soil tioned will fit exactly into this pattern.

17 (A) MOUNTAIN SOILS fores , as 1 as f c;rmi ng, though the conversion extensive areas, from These soils are to be found above 450m and tuss grassland into more intensively fall into two soil groups; high country grazed pastures, may res t in hydrologi­ yellow brown earths and lowland yellow cal lems in the lowland due to excess brown earths. Mountain soils on the station present cover of tussock also fall into two basic soil types, asso­ grassland and introduced grass species ciated with the above soil groups. These • any existing forest are: Kaikoura steepland and hill soils, d be conserved for soil pro- and Hurunui steepland and hill soils. Kaikoura steepland and Kaikoura hill Burning results in a predominance of soils of the upland and high country some areas have been invaded yellow brown earths . All of these soils These soils have formed on greywacke d well to topdressing and rock and loess, possibly under forest cover. By the time the European set­ tlers arrived the vegetation cover on (B) these soils was mainly tall tussock soils are, in general, the deeper. grassland. The development of these le soils found on the lower rol- grasslands, by burning and grazing, has 11s. In altitudinal terms they are opened the soil surface to frost, result­ ow the mountain soils and so are ing in erosion problems. ite as exposed to climatic extremes~ In the interests of soil conservation 1y long periods of severe winter these areas, as far as possible, should be withdrawn from pasture production and Y of the Kakahu put under protective tree planting, which and. as such. they belong to may be of use for timber production at yellow grey earths to yellow lower elevations. s intergrade. Hurunui steepland and Hurunui hill soils Kaka a Kakahu hill sons, yellow grey of the lowland yellow brown earths to yen~o~w~b~r=o·~w~n~e-ar~t~h~s~irn~t-e-r~g-r~a·de~--~~ Formed mostly on deep slope deposits, These intergrade soils are formed on a these soils are mostly of a stony silt loess of varying thickness, and loan texture. Some of the Hurunui hill y a silt loam texture. The hill soils have been formed under broadleaved in s series have shallower pro- scrub and forest. and on steeper sites there may be Hurunui soils are suited to exotic outcrops.

18 The natural nutrient status is low the Formed on greywacke all uvi um, they are productive capacity of Kaka soils can be generally silt loam in texture, though some considerably improved by topdressi may be shallow or stony. Mayfield soils are They are well suited to exotic fores mainly deep with good moisture retention and are, therefore, suitable for more (C) TERRACE AND BOTTOM LAND SOILS intensive mixed farming. Though the growing season may be too short for some crops, The soils of the terraces these soils do provide a good base for are variable in their depth, pasture production. texture and moisture di There is a risk of wind erosion under They belong to two soil grou 1s cultivation. and associated yellow stony soils. The soil types in these Hororata soils, associated yellow brown areas are: Waimakariri shallow 1 s , shallow and stony soils Mayfield soils and Hororata s 1s. These are well drained soils, found on the Because of the relationship terrace lands and fans. They are suited to to the flatter topography, the dryland farming which occurs on this their inherent nutrient status, area of the station. more commonly used for 9 supplementary crops Some of the soils may be bouldery and limit­ soil types. ing to cultivation but they are well suited to forestry, as an alternative to supple­ Waimakariri shallow soils of the mentary crops. Another limitation to their soils group use is that they may sometimes suffer from short, seasonal droughts. Variable in texture and are mainly stony. They There is a risk of wind erosion under cult­ on greywacke gravels wi a ivation; as a result shelter may be desi­ of loess or fine alluvium. rable to protect these soils. As they are free drain; occasional seasonal droughts, less productive and more suited to i dryland farming. Mayfield soils, recent soils yellow grey and yellow brown earths intergrade These soils are found on low terraces, and are a more strongly leac i

19 FIG. 3: THE NATURAL VEGETATION PATTERNS OF MOUNT PEEL

1700m _ 1 pi ne and ant communi es

1300m _---::ti~~-_ -1300m SUNNY, NORTH FACING Subalpine TaJ h tllssock I • SOUTH FACING SLOPE scrub _- ,§"rasslanCl--_ ' SLOPE .- -- 1000 .------1 Hebe bux; f"Oli a- m i,Coprosma parvifl .",."..,.."...,." I ""_ .."....,. "'-----...... L ,,"" ",...... _ , ' -~,,' ""< -- .- - ...... -- ' ~ (...;..~ ,)------Short tussock,-- --...... -- _-r'l' - ,", grass11 an d -- ' -";;/ ,"

LQwland Podocarpus/broadleaf forest shrubland (broadleaf trees dominant) River terrace slopes i RIVER \ Podocarpus/broadleaf forest TERRACE (~ dacrydiodes dominant) swamp forest in wet patches

20 Vegetation of Mount Peel

The broad features of the vegetation to areas where the climate was favourable to terns at Mount Peel are due to its growth and survival. The different interactions between, topog species would again advance, according to soils and the glacial periods. their tolerances, when the glaciers went into Topography and climate, regard to a phase of retreat, thereby recolonising the establishment of the vegetation cover, are newly uncovered land. A succession of dif­ closely related. As the alti increases ferent plant communities would then develop, temperature drops and rainfall increases according to the environmental conditions. accordingly. The aspect of a pa ar The last glacial period has influenced the area also influences its croclimate, sequence of successional vegetation in the e.g. a sunny, north facing slope a Mount Peel region. This successional sequ­ warm microclimate and will s ence may be described in three stages:- different type of vegetation to a s shouth facing slope. Varying 1 Glacial conditions: with the retreat of patterns are, therefore, found the ice, fell field vegetation colonised topographical areas due to di the newly disturbed soils and this grad­ macroclimate and microclimate. ually developed into tussock grassland on the exposed slopes, with beech forest on Topography and climate also affect the sheltered ones. to be found in an area. Shallow. developed soils, th a lower natu 2. Moist climatic period: due to the in­ rient status are found at crease in the moisture available for fferent plant species are plant growth, podocarp forest developed, growth under different envi whilst the beech forest was replaced on tions, including differences in all but the more exposed slopes and As a result vegetation patterns knolls. related to the soil patterns 3. Modified steppe conditions: the podo­ area. In this way the patterns carp forest was able to persist due to visible landscape develop. the favourable rainfall but the beech tion patterns often being the e ex- forest diminished under pressure. pression of the underlying aspects of the land. Patches of vegetation dating from earlier (Refer to FIG. 3) times are scattered through the present communities. These illustrate the changes The cyclic glacial periods in vegetation related to changes in climate, red throughout the natural much like the above successional sequence. Mount Peel region, have also i They show that plants and vegetation pat­ vegetation patterns. Whenever terns adjust and form successional communi­ were advancing the vegetation ties according to changes in the environ-

21 mente The following examples are of some (For a full list of rare plants refer to a plant communities which developed under an paper H.H. lan, 1926, pp. 87-88) earlier climatic regime; they remain today, only in those areas with a microclimate similar to the original climate in which forest is associated with they became established. reater rainfall and may be e.g. Oracophyllum and Hebe shrubland: the forest found at Peel found in subalpine, snowgrass It has two basic associ a- vegetation. ons, one on the terrace lands and one on the hill slopes. Hoheria lyallii low forest: found in stream valleys. lands is forest is dom­ high canopy of Podocarpus Nothofagus cliffortiodes: dacrydi • under ich are well devel­ remnants of mountain beech forest. oped Podocarpus spicatus and Podocarpus totara. Swamp forest may occassionally Today there are seven broad zones of vege­ devel near the bases of steep slopes tation in the Mount Peel area. These will are streams. be discussed under the following categories: hill slopes the podocarps, other (A) Mixed podocarp/broadleaf forest P. ra, become less common and the (B) Beech forest eaf trees dominate the vegetation, amongst Grisellinia littoral is, (C) Shrublands Pittosporum spp., Metrosideros lucida and (0) Grasslands Fuchsia excorticata are common. It rises to about 600m in the gullies. (E) Fell field and herb field forest in the Mount Peel (F) Subalpine and alpine communities region suffered from heavy milling soon (G) River bed communities. after s ement and the successional is type of forest, after The general pattern of thes categories is characteristic features: illustrated in figure 1) of alien plant species, The Mount Peel region also contains a num­ y berried types. ber of rare plants, such as Gleicheria circinata var hecistophylla and Olearia 2) d 9 of certain smaller haastii, in various plant communities from shrubs, the herb and fell fields to forest, scrub e.g. stotellia serrata and tussock grassland. Fuchsia excorticata

22 Wintera colorata are Coprosma parviflora and Discaria Carpodetus serra tum toumatou, to the montane shrubland on Uncinia spp. and Carex spp. are especi ly the coarse debris, near streams at attractive to cattle, as are certain about 600m, where Olearia nummulari­ shrubs, e.g. Schefflera digitata, Neopanax folia and Coprosmapropingua are arboreum, but where the cattle do not dominant. The subalpine scrub found etrate the original forest species are on the debris slopes at about lOOOm, able to establish and the forest resses has Coprosma parviflora and C. to something like its orig; tion. propingua as the dominant species, with large open mats of C. ramulosa between. Where ridges broaden out at ends, near the terrace lands, the 2) Hebe buxifolia - Coprosma parviflora stream sides move upwards. re scrub chief development of tree ferns, This group occurs on the shaded slopes large number of smaller ferns un between 700-1000m and is sometimes developed from the subalpine scrub (B) BEECH FOREST described above. At one time this type is forest type ;s isolated of scrub was more extensive but it has podocarp/broadleaf forest occurs been reduced by fire. higher elevations. It is felt is 3) Leptospermum shrubland a remnant from a previous cli as it closely resembles the climax In a succession from grassland this CanterburyR s eastern mountain type of shrubland may develop into Leptospermum thicket or open shrubland (C) SHRUB LANDS after fire. Both L. scoparium and l. Shrubland communities in the area ericoides invade the burnt areas, with from very open communities to Dracophyllum invading the shadier ets and scrub but the majori slopes. highly modified by fire grazi L. scoporium may also form an associ­ sures, with many being reduced ation with Exocarpus bidwillii on areas. broken, rocky outcrops, at the higher The shrublands in the limits of the short tussock grassland. region may be classified i n This association may be open or closed. groups: 4) Dracophyllum shrubland 1) River terrace and debris sh There are three types of this group of This group covers shrubland. D. longifolium thicket land, where the domi exists up to about 900m, where it is

23 replaced by D. uniflorum shrubland on spectabilis scattered Chionochloa the rocky buttresses and steep slopes. rigida or C. rubra. On the exposed slopes of Middle Peel s is a recently modified community there exists the third type, D. a large adventive flora, especial- rosmarinifolium dwarf shrubland, in 1 grasses. more or less extensive patches in the fell field and intergrading with it. 2) loa rigida grassland community 5) Cassin;a open shrubland is grassl community has tall over- la tussocks in between, with grass This association is indigenous induced litter a shade tolerant, native spe­ after burning, with Cassinia fulvida introduced herbs underneath. and C. vauvilliersii occurring in marked amounts, to form an open shrub­ 3) .:::::.::...:...::.::.:..::..::...:...:....::..::.o-=.a rubra grassl and land. of grassland is to be found The forest, at its upper margin, blends the wet depressions and on either into tall tussock grassland by way aspects. Together with of a narrow zone, or, into one of the rass and induced short tussock previously described shrublands. On cer­ , it forms a mosaic on the tain broad ridges, the mixed forest is terraces glacial moraines. succeeded by a rather extensive plant In s tuations red tussock grassland association in which Senecio elaeagnifo­ merges into Schoenus parviflorus and final­ lius is dominant, with a few other shrubs. ly Carex secta, dominated by swamp commun­ (D) GRASSLANDS ities where Cortaderia richard;; may also nent. Both short and tall tussock grassland are well developed at Mount Peel. The dis­ tussock grassland is common to about tribution of exotic plants ;s of impor­ it merges into, and is replaced tance, with regard to this zone of vege­ tussock grassland forming a broad tation, because of its economic signifi­ 700-1300m. Above this it cance. fell and herb field. Apart from the subalpine Ch;onochloa There is a fference between the grass~ rigida grassland, all other grassland 1 communi es found on sunny and shady communities have developed either within slopes. Those communities on the sunny the last 1000 or 100 years. The major slopes to be more open than those on communities may be recognised by the the slopes. On isolated and windy dominant species. slopes low tussock grassland may extend up to ,1 e on the steep shady 1) Festuca novae zelandiae and Celmisia slopes 1 tussock grassland may descend

24 to 300m. The composition communities: grassland found in any situation 9 Danthonia setifolia varies in accordance changes in slope Agrostis subulata and aspect. Poa colensoi The larger streams found in s- COlobanthus acisularis land have their banks covered Exocarpus bidwillii forest, e.g. Lynn Stream, le Dracophyllum rosmarinifolium the smaller streams this is Hebe cheesemani; thin, shrubby margin. RaOUlia eximia Leucogenes grandiceps (E) FELL AND HERB FIELDS Celmisia incana The fell fields in the (G) RIVERBED COMMUNITIES extend from the upper 1i 1 The Rangitata riverbed is characteristic tussock grassland to the of the large Canterbury rivers, with a Herb fields, in their true braided river channel containing swift only developed to a 1i ted streams, bordered by large boulders and There are several distinct flood plains, and backed by steep terraces. ations and intergrades Natural successions from the riverbed field. consist of: e.g. Celmisia lyallii associ on 1) open communities of Raoulia spp. Celmisia viscosa associ on and Epilobium spp. Poa colensoi association 2) Discaria toumatou shrubland The herb fields are nated lyallii with many of the fell 3) Coprosma shrubland, or low tussock also being abundant. s grassland. ty is characterised Gorse and broom have formed extensive nature and the variety introduced communities, becoming quite a abundance of its herbs. weed problem. They have become natura­ infrequent and streamsides are lised communities, covering large por­ in ants than those in the fell tions of the riverbed and spreading into the surrounding grazing land. SUBALPINE AND ALPINE COMMUNITIES These are found on the higher about 1700m, and near the peaks mountains in the Peel following plants are common in

25 ( )

27 The evidence found in the lan Today the theory of the arrival of Maoris in Europeans first arrived, s ges New Zealand with the 'great fleet' is consid­ Canterbury Plains were once well ered to be somewhat of a myth and that acci­ and not the grassy ains 11 dental arrivals are more probable. Two that was evident at settlement. different types of culture developed in the evidence lies in the charred 1 1s two islands of New Zealand. The South Island which were found on the was probably less densely vegetated, and not the forest remnants in undergoing the same volcanic activity as the highcountry, borderi the North Island, so it was more densely popula­ forest patches were still s ted by the new Polynesian inhabitants - the ains themselves these were moa hunters. This race relied on hunting for Banks! Peninsula was, ifor most rt their food and their main prey was the large covered with dense forest containing moa, plus its smaller relatives. some fine timber.h2 The moa hunters used fire widely and whether A paragraph from J.B.A. andis note the fires that destroyed the forests were describes the charred remains t must intentional or accidental can only be spec­ once have been a great forest:- ulated upon. The first fire may have been accidental, and under the northwesterly 'There is another curious conditions experienced today it is easy to about the Canterbury Plains, see how destructive it could have been. entire absence of ti exceptions. is is more Once the results of fire became apparent because from the great amount it may have become a useful tool to the charred wood lying about natives. It removed the scrub and spiny have probably at one time vegetation which made cross country travel nearly covered and it is di difficult, as well as being useful in now to say it has been driving the moas from the forests as they but most probably by became fewer in number and harder to hunt. Speculation continues today as to The landscape must have changed markedly forests were destroyed it is during this period but the moa hunter was postulated that it was the result ge also destroying his main food supply and its in climate and the burni habitat. He gradually became more reliant the polynesians. on the food sources found around the coast, shellfish, fish etc; with excursions into 2 J.B.A. Acland1s notebook, the inland part of the island to hunt the Acland Papers, Canterbury few remaining moas. In the North Island Library a different culture was developing, based 3 1 d on horticulture; this eventually spread

29 south until the moa hunter became integrated into the new lifestyle. The native popu­ lation then became concentrated in the north where the climate was more favourable. At the time of European settlement the eastern part of the South Island, and the plains in particular, had changed consider­ ably. Forests had disappeared, and along with the change in habitat there had been a loss of about 40, or more, native bird species. It was a new landscape which greeted the settlers compared with that which had greeted the first polynesians. How much of this is directly attributable to the moa hunters is debatable because, as stated before, it is felt that the forest was already declining due to subtle climatic changes from damp conditions to a warmer, drier climate. The moa hunter probably just helped the change to occur in a shorter period of time. liThe plains though generally quite desolate are at times quite beautiful. In spring parts are perfectly white with the blossoms of dwarf manuka and other parts yellow with what is called wild onion ... I J.B.A. Acland 4

4 Acland1s notebook, dated 1854: Acland Papers, Canterbury University Library.

30 31 ( )

•

33 J.B.A. Acland, along th C.G. became sidered a quick trip, the two arrived in the founders of Mount Peel Station. Lyttleton. arrived in Lyttleton, New Zea 5th January, 1855, four years In order to gain practical experience in first four ships. farming, they decided to take up cadetships with the local farmers. Tripp paid £25 to John Barton Arundel and was in work as a cadet with M.J. Burke of Halswell Killerton, Somerset, in 1823. and Opihi River, near Timaru, Meanwhile educated at Harrow and Chri Acland paid £30 to work with H.J. Tancred where he took a Bachelor of of Malvern Hills Station. They also found honours in maths, in 1845. time to travel around Canterbury, taking and was called to the Bar, any opportunity to watch, and assist in the for a while before becoming interested in various activities required in sheep farm­ the colony of New Zealand; after ng ing. Charles George Tripp. During March they had their first opportu­ The two young men, and was 31 nity to visit South Canterbury. Travelling Tripp 28, decided to try their in with Burke to his Opihi Station, Acland and the new country but they had to Tripp contemplated the hills beyond the considerable family opposition. forest, and its suitability for raising finally made an agreement sheep. When enquiring about these hills he could come provided that they were told that only wild pigs inhabited enter into any serious business the country; Tripp then surmised that where for at least one year. He was also pigs could live so could sheep. From then on to return to England for a isit at Acland and Tripp decided to explore the of the second year. likely hills, and this they did in the fol­ Before commencing their lowing spring. Tripp consulted th J.R. Though Acland1s year, before entering busi­ been the English agent for ness deals, had not yet expired and so he settlement, as well as tal could not buy land, he was able to apply for George Grey and Bishop Sel a license to a Ipastoral run as this did not booked passages on the ' commit him to anything but the possible loss cost of £85 each. They of the [10 fee. The license was not effec­ they would require for the tive for three months, and the run was then was needed for life in the new required to be stocked within six months or le Acland took £2,000 capital, the fee would be forefeit. took goods which he planned to sell, on arrival in New Zealand, to raise s ital. The two men felt an increasing urgency to After a voyage of 87 days, was con- make such an application because most of the

35 land on the Canterbury Plains had already east branch of that river been occupied, and the hill country was under so as to include the country in the increasing pressure from prospective land the south of Peel Forest, on owners. They were sure that if they did not west higher range of the mountains act soon they would not be able to get a in a northerly direction from reasonable amount of land with which to begin ,7 their own sheep run. me that the first suggestion On the 30th July, 1855, Acland lodged an between Acland and Tripp application at the Christchurch Land Office for a run which was about 80 miles south September, 1855, to ex­ west of Christchurch and about 40 miles from travelling part.of the the sea, in the fork of the Ran~itata.5 then planning to travel This license did not become operative until of the Rangitata River, October and he then had until April to make his final decision. Tripp had already forks and then up the so applied for a run in the same locality, nei­ their previous travels around ther were discouraged by the fact that they were well aware of their had not yet seen the land, or that it had,not were therefore well equipped. even been surveyed. stage on is trip, they experi­ ical Canterbury 'nor'wester' > The descriptions of the properties were as 'sou'wester', and their follows: - Peel was a snowy one. J.B.A. Acland - '57,500 acres. Bounded the Rangitata River they found on the north by the snowy mountains on steep and managed to get the east by the base of Mount Peel and ver via a steep, stony gully, the mountains extending ·therefrom in a site the present Mount Peel northerly direction and the Rangitata, trip to this point, across on the south by the runs of Messrs Plains, must have been very Jollie and Cox, and on the west by the the ains were a feature­ snowy mountains.·6 and it was easy for people ut well marked tracks to C.G. Tripp - '57,500 acres. Bounded on the north by the snowy range, in the east by the Rangitata to the forks, t Peel country wild and terrace lands had impassable 5Acland ' s diary,Acland Papers, Canterbury ravines and deep gullies. University Library 6Anderson, C.T., 1942/43: Acland Papers, 7 , C.T., 1942/43: Acland Papers, Canterbury University Library versity Li brary

36 The natural matagouri scrub as well as being fairly centrally situated made travelling difficult for on the run. horses, but Acland and Tri burning as they went. On this trip the men also found a route a­ The first of the fires that the men lit round the Rangitata Gorge and then explored on their land, was very destructive. It further up the valley, reaching as far as could be seen from 98 kilometres Mesopotamia Flat. Again they burned and Acland was said to have tten s sowed.grass seed as they went, the matagouri, that night by the light it cast, over 2 sometlmes as tall as four metres, and the metres away.As the earth cooled spear-grass burning readily. clover seed in the ashes. It was es By the 20 October their supplies were low that they burned approximately and they returned to Russell's at Gawlor hectares on is trip. Downs. While they had been away the weather Though they had to return on, had been wet and the neighbouring stations Acland and Tripp had seen had experienced a snowfall which had missed land to be assured of its the Rangitata Valley. This fact highlight­ fertile, it had a plenti ed the climatic suitability of the area for and there was a supply a sheep run as it held the promise of good Forest. winters. On their return to Christchurch 1 Acland began to get politically involved in fresh run applications based on r new the Canterbury province and he was a strong knowledge. supporter for the appointment of a Bishop. - He also undertook work collecting informat­ Between their first and se t ion for a census held on 13 January, 1856. Peel, Acland and Tripp harves of self sown wheat from the site By early March, Acland and Tripp were again own as the Government Rail exploring their run country. On this trip Addington. They also t sheep they met Abner Clough who was to become a ew to stocking the runs they h long standing and valuable employee at for. Mount Peel Station. By this time the grass and clover they had By 2 October, 1855, they were b sown on the earlier trips was growing well and on this day they reached a and there was plenty of sheep feed. They they could see clearly i now set about exploring the north bank of Valley but further progress was prevented by the Rangitata River and discovered lakes the Rangitata Gorge. They so stone Acland and Tripp. They also burnt and over Sunday chosing a site for the homeste ; it sowed this new country, reaching as far as was important at there was ose by, the confluence of the Havelock and Clyde

37 Rivers in the Rangitata headwaters. the ains at this time was because there were no local land­ Acland and Tripp returned to Christchurch travellers used to head towards on the 28th May and again ammended their 11 or mountain, or other applications for runs. On the 1st April features in the landscape. Trav­ new land regulations were to be enforced ly formed tracks which. in and as the two men wished to hold their the basis for our roads runs under the old regulations; they had ch still head toward the same to complete their arrangements for posses­ feature. sion before this date. In a letter, dated 28 March, 1856, Acland describes the extent pp used to travel ahead of the of their holding to his family:- 1 they found some recognisable and then they would light a signal 'We have taken out the moderate others to follow. quantity of 115,000 acres between us, about 180 square miles .... The there a lack of landmarks on two runs have been taken out in 4 there was also a lack of such a way that we shall be able a result, considerable time was to have only one home station at ng trying to catch the first and stock both runs from ichmade up their team. 8 that point.· reached the Rakaia River it was By the end of April the livestock they had low and so locks were able to drag bought, to stock the runs, consisted of across but by the time they rea­ 140 lambs (6-12 months old), and 230 tata River it was in flood and ewe lambs (4-12 months old). They had also lers had to wait for a week before bought 96 hectares of land at 10 shillings e. They finally crossed the per 0.4 hectare on the west bank of the 8th May, 1856 and reached the Rangitata river, north of Peel Forest. were to erect the first use. The partnership between Acland and Tripp was now established, and dates from April 1856, the site had been cleared and with the partnership deed agreed on at commenced. [2,000 per partner. They purchased more and Sharp left Mount peel on the stock, bullocks and stores and employed a to return to Christchurch to col­ shepherd, Robert Smith, and with Sharp as a stock, th which to establish the cadet, they left on the 26th April 1856 to drove them back to Mount Peel and truly establish their station. days crossing the Rangitata 8Acland Papers, Canterbury University Library. e y establishment of the run there were a number of problems, n presented problems to the bolO new sheep one being the unpredictable nature farmers. Rangitata River. In the summer 1856/57 the river rose higher and ooded longer Eventually things began to run more smoothly than other years which meant re and the foundations for a successful high times when supplies were short. country sheep run were completed. By 1858 vegetable garden was establis , a new house was under construction and a fresh fruit and vegetables was es second, with farm buildings, was planned. significant. There was a punt for navigating the cros­ sing of the Rangitata River, as well as, At this time Acland and Tri stockyards, wool shed, and a good vegetable tely wi the land office, garden. time when they applied for extensions to the stocking deadline. enabl The Forest had been recognised as a the two men to acquire more 1 Valuable resource and both men gave a not quite adjoining, allowi great deal of thought as to the best fertile area of Mount Peel itself method of logging. Proffessional sawyers left out of any applications. were employed. was stocking the extensive area In March, 1857, Acland had left Mount Peel they now controlled; they Station and sailed for England, as he had extension to the stocki promised his father. While he was away he 1) the amount of rough ground not gave a lecture on sheep farming in New burned and developed Zealand; in it he offered encouragement to 2) the diseased sheep on nei any man who wished:- runs and the possibility 'to improve his condition by finding ating their own ocks if and making for himself a new home in outer parts of the runs. a new land, and as a true colonist, 3) that if delayed until stmas, s be prepared to cast his lot in with ing would be completed it would be the fortunes of his country, be that easier to swim the sheep across what they may.' 9 Rangitata River. On his return to Mount Peel, in January Other problems were to devel 1859, he found Tripp married to one of the lack of fencing, res ted in mus ng daughters of Bishop Harper, and the station: problems and difficulty in control lin lambing times. Shearing was a 'considerably improved, a small lack of protection from the weatherboard house with 6 rooms well as a lack of labour. 9Acland's Lecture, 1858: Acland Papers, the transportation of wool to Canterbury University Library.

39 and a verandah where Mr and Mrs Tripp lived. The original old hut and whare were given up to me for my bachelor establish­ ment. ,10 Later on, in 1862, the partnership finally disolved due to:- 'our positions now being so much altered from the bachelor state in which we had been when we started that we mutually agreed that we had better disolve and divide our runs which we accordingly did. '11 Acland took possession of Mount Peel Station and Tripp took over Orari Gorge Station.

10 Acl and Papers, Canterbury Un; vers i ty Li brary.

11 Ibi d.

40 (

41 ---...... JIiOI!Io and Pasture Development

A BURNING can only be done with a permit obtained The extent to which Acland and red from the South Canterbury Catchment Board. Mount Peel country has already men on- It is only used to clear scrubland, espec­ ed. Such a practice was necessary in the ially matagouri as the sheep have diffi­ early establishment of the station in order culty in getting through the vegetation, to improve the grazing. By ing, and only in places where it does not accumulated mass of rough vegeta on was adversely affect the soil and natural removed, encouraging renewed tussock vegetation. which was more palatable to stoc It exotic also enabled the establishment B THE PATTERN OF LAND DEVELOPMENT clovers and grasses ich were sown i the ashes. There appears to be a pattern in the way Early burning was done indiscri various parts of Mount Peel Station have necessity dictated. There was no been developed. The first land to be as to the effects on vegetation, developed was on the higher terraces, ldlife and it was some time mainly th1)se with Kakahu soils. Develop­ burning became a practiced art, ment has since moved further towards the when weather and soil condi river and along the front of the station, optimal. Tripp advised bu from west to east. under favourable weather This pattern can be followed on the soil was then damp. accompanying map, the numbered paddocks Burning on the station was having their development traced in the landscape in terms of the foll owing 1i st. forest and the change in vegetation on the station. It removed Paddock Date of development and and the speargrass, as well as. number type of development the nature of the tussock species. 17(a) First developed about 1880. effect of the oversowing, the Recent developments saw it landscape would also change, refenced in 1950, probably not greener than the rusty along the old boundary lines. ral tussock cover. It was ploughed again in 1958. On the more susceptible, gher slopes eros­ 13 In 1954 this 30 hectare area ion problems also began to appear, was divided into 4 paddocks. these are of 1; e significance on actual run as it exists A Broken in from the native coun- try in 1964 it was sown in Burning. as a management practice pasture in 1966. There has

43 Paddock Date of development and Number type of development been no further development in F is area is so of the this area. stream and development began in 1967. Development was to B This country was broken in, in take 5-7 years. The area had 1970 and sown down into grass never been cultivated before in 1972. due to boulders. c Development in this area has followed a similar pattern~ being developed from top to bottom. 1951 Top paddock - it had not been ploughed earlier due to a lack of access. Ploughed again in 1966. 1962 middle area developed. 1964 area on the other side of the road developed. IFI = forestry. IG 1 = gorse covered land to be developed for forestry. 17(b) Ploughed in the late 1880's and 10 1890 1 s. These paddocks were 11 again ploughed in 1949. D This river terrace is a better area for development but it was not developed until 1954. The area across the road was devel­ oped in 1964. E This area was not developed until 1973 because of a gorse problem.

44 KEY ~ush scrub O fOl"'e:e.+ * hOf1)e~e.ad JD[IIt ("0 ac! ------f ef\ce. \ ;('\e.5

45 6 MOUNT' PEEL STATION a guide to field size shape

KEY

0., 101'"

* hOI"'l€51eod nx. road

----- Pence \II"\€S

46 -_ and Methods of Enclosure

(A) Field Sizes have been subsequently reduced for better When Mount Peel Station was first ished management. As an example, one paddock in the only fences were those i keep the lower tussock country has been divided livestock out and so the area, a into nine smaller, more productive ones since large part of the Canterbu ns, was just 1960. one large paddock. Similar dissection has occurred on the lower Field sizes have decreased terrace lands, for similar reasons. The opment of the station, due to 1 soils on these parts of the station have ment and the subsequent increase in evolved from different parent material and vity. Different areas are more tend to be more fertile. Due to their loc­ development and as a result ation on the comparatively flat land, they sizes vary within these areas. are most suited to development for more intensive use. As a result the changes in In the upland hill country field sizes has been marked, for example, of the present day are si lar since 1960 one paddock has been divided into the past. As the soil cover is it 20 smaller ones. is unable to support large amounts of tation for browsing a mals. a Subdivision means that the higher producti­ the tops of the hills remained vity can be better utilised, increasing the the rest of the area is poor g efficiency of the land available. It has limited production potent; increased in the later period of station development because methods available to Development of these areas would not only be increase production, have improved with difficult in terms of labour cost, it improvements in technology. These improve­ may also upset the delicate soil lib urn. ments will be discussed in more detail later Exposure of the soil surface to taction under the heading 'technology.' may lead to erosion problems. and areas of the station are suitable for dev- elopment to increase pasture ction. (B) Methods of enclosure The soils in these areas have deeper p les and are able to withstand higher levels of Fields require fencing and the increase grass production, and subsequent in the numbers of fields created a need for pressures. In most aces the 1 is more easily constructed and durable fencing. rolling and less steep, so i It has already been stated that there were problems are not as serious, few fences within the Canterbury province. be agravated by bad management. This was due to two reasons: As a result development in (1) there was a limited number of stock, area has been widespread and in the early years it was there-

47 fore, easier to keep stock out than to c vegetation anted on it, as it keep it in. marked contrast with the nat­ {2} there was a lack of timber for the vegetation of the hill country. post and rail fences which were be remembered is that this constructed at the time. osure was away from the usual station and therefore it was Wire fencing was not introduced into the significant for the most part. Canterbury agricultural landscape until about 1862. The situation was the same at after the station was prop­ Mount Peel, with timber having to be logged that wire fencing was and carted to where it was required for s form of enclosure is almost fencing. parent, the only part which is intrusive being the posts because The other type of enclosure used in the ear­ lines or patterns in the landscape. ly development of the station was a ditch These lines are also emphasised when they and bank type of system, with the bank being separate fferent land uses, such as, crops planted with gorse, broom or some other re, or, exotic pasture from semi- equivalent. There are still remains of this 'wall I along the upper parts of the station today. practice of bulldozing fence n emphasises the fencelines, dis- Before fencing could be established over 11 country and creating discor­ substantial areas, the need for fencing aro­ in the organic landscape. It and the homestead and stock yards had to be , a necessary practice which pre­ satisfied. The advent of post and wire stock from getting under any large fencing meant that more fencing could be the bottom wire and irregular achieved in less time and so land develop­ ment could increase in accordance with the patterns of land subdivision discussed ear­ ldozed fencelines are visi e lier. the gher ter­ areas also con­ Over time fences have reduced in their vis­ fencing and so ual dominance in the landscape. The timber on the landscape is magnified by fence was a dominant type of construction, to elevation, and by the being about 1.25m in height and constructed fence lines. of heavy posts and deep rails. The ditch and bank type of fencing would (c) Field Shape also have been highly intrusive, though not necessarily discordant within the landscape. Fence lines so determine field shape which Its most dominant feature would have been so result in sually disturbing

48 elements in the natural, roll; This is especially significant bouring fields contain different 1 uses, field shape thereby being emphasised different colours. Again, because suitability of the soils and , the majority of the conflict is downlands, terraces and 1 ands. On Mount Peel Station many of have outer edges which relate to ridges. As a result the shapes may be more organic and therefore less dominant in the landscape. can this to the field shapes Canterbury Plains which from natural, topographic 1i from the limitations of climate; as a they are predominantly square.

Field size and shape are 011 map 6 , which shows the station.

49 Livestock

Livestock are extremely important Sheep were able to run over wide expanses Peel Station as they are the rna; of land, being watched over by a shepherd the farm as a high country run. who herded them down to the riverbed when­ In his notebook, dated 1854~2J.B.A. ever there was a possibility of fire. mentions that stock in New Zeal Sometimes the sheep were penned, or yarded, varying prices, and he also by night, especially when there was a risk trends he had observed in sheep of them catching the dreaded disease 'scab'. farming in Canterbury. He records As the flocks increased in size they would cattle were being run on 1 be split, each new mob being placed under that sheep were doing best on the charge of a shepherd on another part try, especially the low hills of the station. Mount Peel Station, fol­ These observations show that was lowing a similar development process, was looking carefully at agriculture in not fully stocked for years. Canterbury; they were also to In 1912, about 20,835 hectares of Mount very relevant with regard to es is Peel Station were resumed by the government ment of the Mount Peel run. for closed settlement. As a result, 25,830 Sheep have always sheep were sold in order to maintain stock­ livestock carried ing levels appropriate to the amount of When it was first established land available. Acland in 1857, they ran 1 In 1858 the numbers had increased Other livestock on the station, in the early and by 1859 to 3363 sheep. It years, were bullocks, horses and mules; to build up stock numbers, used primarily for transport and as beasts until after the nter of 1867 of burden. These animals indirectly affec­ began to put sheep on the back ted the early landscape at Mount Peel be­ Peel run. cause of their requirements. They were able to move along small rough tracks which were Early management of sheep in determined by the physical nature Qf the to put them on the runs and land; the visible effect being tracks which keep them there; the lack of sympathised with the natural landscape. ing already been mentioned. They also required additional feed and so mustered once a year for shea oats were grown on the terraces near the ping' only began 'scab l was s homestead. These fields would have contras­ through Canterbu ,after the i ted with the natural tussock landscape, and of infected sheep from the the oat stacks would have introduced new 12J.B.A. Acland's Notebook, forms. Acland Papers, Canterbury Today bullocks and mules, and to a large Li brary. 51 extent horses, have disappeared from the terms of time, effort and the station; only 'productive' livestock remains. better land resources, is The stock numbers for 1982 are: e higher returns gained livestock. cattle 835 sheep 10,200 to ch livestock can uti- deer 370 on the station relates to landscape patterns already The cattle and sheep are grazed over most The ands have shallower, of Mount Peel Station, while the deer are a reduced carrying contained by tall fencing on the flat. ands, terracelands and are more productive and have The way in which the livestock are used on y been subdivided, and the pas­ the station is in response to the landscape , to make the management of patterns and the tolerances of the different these areas livestock more efficient. livestock types, as well as some management is respect livestock also help to aspects. The 1 ivestocks , use of the land ne landscape patterns, as the dif­ is, therefore, a product of landscape are defined by fencelines patterns. a use management policies. Increased Sheep and cattle are able to utilise the of the lower areas results in grazing available on the upland parts of the a landscape pattern to that found station, without any intensive management i y grazed uplands. or supervls1on. Although the deer could however, the development and also do well in these areas they are con­ better pastures, since the fined to the terrace areas because of the established, has increased the more intensive management they require as cti ty and carrying capacity domestic livestock~ areas on Mount Peel Station. The fencing required to confine deer is taller and more expensive to construct; costs for equivalent fencing on the upper hil1s1opes would increase markedly, as well as being more difficult to construct. Concentrating the deer on the more produc­ tive soils also means that they are able to be more intensively grazed, allowing a reduction in paddock area per deer, as well as on accompanied reduction in the amount of fencing. The extra management expenses

52 Crops

The account books for Mount Peel Station 13 better crops and so we find the soil types indicate that the major crops grown in the most cultived are: Kakahu soils, Horotane early years were potatoes and oats. Potatoes soils and r·1ayfield soils. These soils, were, presumably~ a staple food occupying land with a gradient suitable for workers on the station, while cultivation, are found mainly on the easy for the horses. According to rolling downlands and the river flats and Mr John Acland, oats were no 1 terraces near the homestead area. by the 1920's as horses no 1 a major contribution to the farm In the earlier years those soils which were on relatively flat land, and which had fewer Crops were part of the early 1 stones, were used. Looking at the basic ment at Mount Peel. land was i pattern of land development, there appears ploughed and sown in potatoes, to be a correlation with soil type, the about three successive wheat earlier crops bei ng grown on Kakahu soil s. being finally sown in clover grasses. Recent technological advances have produced machinery capable of developing the more Crops are also used in the difficult soils, such as, the Waimakariri inative i land today, turnips shallow soil s . used as a first stage crop The resultant visual effect of crops in the ure grasses are sown. Mount Peel landscape is due to the contrasts Those crops grown today are in colour. Bright green crops, such as nter feed crops, for the turnips and cale, are visually significant station. Turnips and cale are in the relatively natural landscape of the There is no set rotation pattern Mount Peel region. This contrast is gen­ on which the crops are grown, erally emphasised by field shape, straight may be ploughed only once in lines forming the line of demarcation betwe­ en two land uses. The areas of land used to crops relate closely to As the pattern of development tends to be soil patterns. Topography poses irregular the visual result on the landscape limitations to the type of 1 is an irregular patchwork effect. This is worked, machinery can only be especially noticeable where the development under about a 22 percent gradi is occurring in an elevated position, on a ch have a higher nutrient north facing hillslope. better water retention 11 UAccount books for Mount Peel Station contained in the Acland Papers, manuscript collection, Canterbury iversi brary.

53 PHOTOGRAPH 2: The visual effect of crop­ ping in the grassland landscape at Mount Peel Station. This area is located at the bottom of the downlands. An important feature is the shape of the field, the dividing gully providing a comparison be­ tween natural lines in the landscape and straight fencelines.

1 i

.. ,

,.

PHOTOGRAPH 3: The vi sual effect of fores tr"l"­ in the Mount Peel landscape. The straight lines of this block of forestry (Mothering Paddock, refer to MAP 7) are emphasised by the contrasts in colour. Its elevated position in the landscape increases the visual impact. Also note the way in which the access road dissects the hillslope. Forestry

Forestry is an alternative, 1 farm 2) the slope of the land crop which is used to get a 3) the soil type from poor quality, diffi t to manage, land. There are a number ots plan­ Where 'brown top' was the existing vegeta­ ted at Mount Peel Station, the earliest tion cover, the trees were planted without having been planted in the y 1950's preparation, but gorse covered land was and covering 0.5 hectares. sprayed and burned before planting. Ter­ race land was ripped before planting in t10unt Peel Station and most cases. ots, run combined, have 14 fore Forestry has been used on those areas of most of them situated tata the station which would be difficult to Gorge Road (Refer to total hectares; develop for pasture management. Though it area covered by the is often planted in gorse covered areas, the trees varyi in 1anted it is not seen as a control for gorse. In to almost mature. Pinus ra ata the easier gullies gorse will be cleared predominant tree species with lots and Pinus radiata established, but this consisting of Pseudotsuga ---- only occurs where there is no apparent Mount Peel Station, as defi regeneration of natural bush. , has proposed new boundary s on At present there is little diversity in the 37.1 hectares of forestry, all radiata, and only one tree species used, but there are future mature. The woodlots are plantings of Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga slopes and terraces, mos menziesii) planned. Though it takes longer poorer agricultural soils to mature it usually yields timber of areas. higher value. The growth rate of the trees is average to ~he shape of plantings and their integration above average for South , probab- lnto the Mount Peel landscape is very important. Plantings at present tend to ly due to the soils be; relative y fert~ ile and there being a reasonable rainfall follow fencelines and as a result have over the summer months. Trees on 11 straight edges which are not integrated country tend to grow faster those on into the landscape. the terraces, except where are on the Mr John "Acland, at present running Mount drier slopes exposed to northwesterly Peel Station, sees farm forestry in the winds. next 20 years, playing an important role in Land preparation before of the developing land cleared of gorse and broom. existing forestry blocks 1) the existing vegetation cover TABLE 1: KEY LOCATION OF THE FORESTRY WOOO­ LOTS PEEL STATION: SUt,1ffJARY OF FORESTRY WOODLOTS AT MOUNT PEEL STATION 1. as ock 2. Woodlot Age Area Species (yrs) (ha) 3. r is block

P. radiata 4. xon is block - Chapmans 16 6.3 - Trivetts 13 2.4 5. - Lower Chapmans 12 8.2 6. - Dixons 28 0.5 7. - Snake Gull ey 1 8.6 - Wool shed 3-4 1.4 8. Paddock - Lynn 10 5.5 - Mothering Paddock 11 4.2 Total: 37.1

56 57 PHOTOGRAPH 4: A linear planting of young Eucalyptus sp. and Thuja sp. shelter trees. This planting is along a fenceline on the lower terrace lands. Shelter

Shelter is seen as important stock and Thuja spp. and pasture growth but, until last 20 years, there has been little s ter Chamaecyparis lawsoniana is difficult to planting carried out on the station. establish and not very tolerant of the dry, reason for this remains unexplai exposed conditions. is surprising that this should be Thuja, though a little more tolerant, it is case when the effect of the also difficult to establish and only grows wind, on the north facing slopes, is con­ slowly. sidered. The most successful of the coniferous tree In the early years, shelter was seen species are the pines, Pinus radiata and being more important around the P. ponderosa. These will grow almost any­ and so there are many fine trees where on the station, P. ponderosa seeming­ area of the station. The rest ly hardier and growing well in the dryer must have relied on the shel areas. the lee side of the hills and s pockets of natural bush. There are Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir) does different tree genera now used to well in the more fertile areas, and may also various parts of Mount Peel Sta on. be a valuable source of timber in the future, may be divided into two groups as llows: especially if planted in deep enough blocks. 1) Eucalyptus spp. and Populus nigra The placement of shelter in the Mount Peel 'Italica' (Lombardy poplar). landscape presently follows the fenclines, 2) Coniferous tree species. and is concentrated in thrise areas near the homestead and river terraces. 1. Eucalyptus spp. and Populus nigra 'I ica' Eucalyptus is the main genus used flat river terraces, where they quickly and tolerate the , expo- sed conditions. Lombardy poplar is not used on on very often, though they are seen well in the Peel Forest area. 2. Coniferous tree species There are four predominant genera used shelter on the station. These are: Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, ~ ata and Pinus ponderosa, Pseudotsuga menziesii,

59 Access Routes

In the very early years. travel aro 1863, it was a dray road and had been cut Canterbury was by landmark, compass through the bush by men working from both intuition. Tllismust nave 5een ends. and Tripp~s method of navigation a In 1860 a ferry had been constructed, near ~1ount Peel, as well as Canterbury. Even­ the present site of the Rangitata River tually tracks were worn,accordi to Bridge, and this plus the new road through direction of travel arid the natural 1 Peel Forest, brought Mount Peel closer to form; they probably skirted civilisation. dense scrub thickets, travell; easiest route and in the genera On Mount Peel Station supplies were carried of a prominent landmark. to the out station by mule trains, until more modern means of transport were avail­ When they finally reached the able, or some of the most inaccessible River, they had to find a regions were abandoned. Today, efficiency steep northern bank and then of travel has been achieved by motorised upredictable river. The day transport, but these require larger tracks with the bullocks and stores, to be cut to allow access to different Mount Peel Station, they had parts of the station. stores across on the drays. Some of these access roads dissect the One of the first tracks cut at stat~ landscape, zig-zagging across the hill­ ion was one down the northern face slopes, as dictated by the gradient. river bank; so that easier access to Convenience, rather than aesthetics, has fording place could be gained. been the dominating factor, and so, many known as the 'Longford cross; '3 of them detract from the natural beauty of situated almost opposite the s te the Mount Peel landscape. homestead. It was apparen quite steep, it did allow the dray to be and down the bank face from the punt which had been built in In 1857, Robert Smi and cut a track through the bush to to walk to Peel Forest. Tripp were, however, in no to a proper road through the forest, very isolation being protection a the sheep disease 'scab'. The first through Peel Forest was con

61 Technology

The developments in agricultural techn ogy Some such plants are Trifolium spp. and this century has meant that the agers of Lotus spp. One of the Lotus sp. shows Mount Peel Station have been a to devel­ special promise for application at Mount op larger area of native land, in s rter Peel Station, according to Mr Acland. periods of time. The rate of de opment has increased in all areas of station; with the development of machinery e of cultivating the more difficult s. The improvements in machinery the ap- plication of fertiliser has meant t the production capacity of the i roved pastures has been able to be maintai At present Mount Peel Station receives an annual application of superphos and an application of lime every Those pastures at higher alti des also also been developed, due largely to advent of aerial topdressing. The use of aerial topdressing has increased in recent years the upper pastures have been oversown and fertilised to improve production. , however, the rising costs of fe liser and especially of fuel, has meant feas- isbility of such methods of i land and maintaining production will have to be seriously considered in the reo The use of aerial topdressing on the terrace lands 11, however, be continued to ir higher production capacity. Mr J Acland, presen y managing Station, sees natural methods pasture production as being impo the future. These natural methods ily involve the use of ants to fix their own nitrogen from rand ich also have a low ph os rement.

63 Buildings

It is not intended that the important his­ landscape acting as a symbol of the peo ­ torical buildings be discussed in this ple's faith . section, as they will be covered in detail Overall, the buildings at Mount Peel in Part III. However, the importance of Station have been well integrated into the siting and the colour of the buildings the natural landscape. They have been on Mount Peel Station will be discussed . sited logically in response to the natural As in most farming situations the build­ elements combined with the needs of the ings generally act as focal points, signal ­ people. The colouring of the buildings ling the main working areas. Mount Peel also provides a pleasant contrast to the has a homestead area which includes many natural colouring of the surrounding of the farm buildings and worker's houses; landscape . the clustering of the buildings giving a more satisfactory visual appearance, than would an unrelated scattering of struc­ tures . The colouring of the buildings at Mount Peel is usually harmonious with the col ­ ours of the natural landscape. Brick has been a commonly used building material, its red/brown colouring supplying a plea­ sant contrast to the tawny browns and greens of the countryside. Wooden build­ ings have been stained, or painted, a red/ brown also, with the same visual effect. There is also a unity of colouring between buildings, and this is especially important where several can be seen in anyone view. Siting of the buildings has usually occur­ red so that the structures sit well in the landscape." The homestead was sited in response to the cliamte and the needs of the household. The other buildings have been spaced out on the flat terraces, within the general homestead area. The church has been placed on a knoll PHOTOGRAPH 7: A worker's cottage and overlooking the river terraces and home­ out- buildings nestled beneath a planting of stead area, its elevated position in the mature oaks.

65 PHOTOGRAPH 8: A remnant of natural bush which has been retained in one of the gullies of the middle river terraces. Such gullies help to create a visually integrated landscape with a distinctive character. It is also a functional aspect of the agricultural landscape at Mount Peel as the gullies gullies, if developed, would be difficult to manage manage successfully. Weeds and Pests

(A.) HEEDS On the hillsides gorse is a very striking Many of the plants which have become a feature. It was originally used in con­ weed problem at Mount Peel Station were junction with the ditch and bank type introduced by the unknowing settlers of fence, and this became the seed source for the land. The main ones plauging Mount the gorse thickets which are present today. Peel at present are:- Ulex eur(peus (gorse), Berberis glaucocar a barberry), . ~ubusJruticosus (blac berry, Cytisus scoparius {broom}. In addition to these maln ones there are also, nodding thistle, californian thistle, barley grass, himala­ yan honeysuckle, whistlewood and tutu. Gorse There was said to be no gorse in the Rangitata riverbed prior to 1873, about which time it was planted freely in hedges. By October 1886, it was obviously becoming a problem at Mount Peel Station, as the first reference to gorse grubbing appears in the account books. 13 Today it occupi es large areas of the riverbed, and some hillsides. Gorse is able to establish itself in the silt patches in the riverbed, and when floods occur the bushes trap more silt PHOTOGRAPH 5: A gorse community (Ulex until small mat communities are able to europeus) establishing in the Lynn Stream develop. The plant's vigor, a~tl ; its abil·­ ri verbed. ity to seed profusely over a long season, means that dense communities rapidly estab­ In the past they tried to control this weed lish, smothering other plant communities. . I' by grubbing and burning, but gorse is able '" to remain viable in the soil for many Ri verbed gorse is ab.1e to b~>l)9u '~-2t. back to years; leading to repeated emergence once expose the silt, and with c~~~ful stock management, turf may be developed. establishment has occurred in the paddocks. In 1933 the gorse weevil was liberated in the area and, although it slowed the seed­ 13Mount Peel Station's Account Books: Acland ling rate, it was not wholly successful due Papers, Canterbury University Library. to the coldness of the Mount Peel winters.

67 Today spraying is used to control the gorse than natural succession from beneath manuka in the paddocks. In the poorer areas, after or kanuka scrub~ the gorse has been cleared, forestry is In 1933 the gorse weevil was liberated in planted thereby helping to control the gorse the area but it was not wholly successful through plant competition. due to the coldness of the Mount Peel Above about 550m, gorse becomes less ag­ wi nters. gres s i ve, and the v'j gor and frequency of Barberry bushes is reduced. It is rarely found above 600m. , .' . J li!l I .' , Gorse, if 1eft, can form ' the' ba' s ~h " , for the successive regeneration of native plant species. As gorse often co1onises freshly disturbed soils or abandoned pastures, it soon estab­ lishes a dense cover which inhibits the - establishment of more seedlings. This is' '!". the first successional stage. . With age this cover gradually opens, allow­ ing increased light penetration so that other seedlings may begin the second suc­ cessional stage. The sheltered microclimate within the gorse, and the fertile litter on the ground, provide a suitable environment for native seedlings to establish. The species which do establish will depend on the seed sources in the area. The succession of plants will continue until the natural climax vegetation, possibly similar to the original vegetation cover, has evolved. This succession may be inter­ rupted by fire, which encourages new gorse regeneration from seeds and sometimes existing stems. PHOTOGRAPH 6: A barberry plant (Berberi s It is interesting to note that, the regene­ glaucocarpa) which has become established ration of natural bush from gorse is faster in the Lynn Stream riverbed.

,II In 1859, on October 2nd, J.B.A. and found in mixed communities along the recorded in his diary: riverbed, especially gorse and broom. 'Sowed barberry seed Blackberry It was to be the beginning of a em Blackberry is another aggressive weed but which had to be faced by the successive does not appear to be as common as the generations on Mount Peel Station. others at Mount Peel Station. It appears in early winter, there are llsides to prefer slightly deeper, more fertile 'glow' pink with this aggressive soils; nor is it to be found to the same is also found in the creek and extent in the riverbed areas. There are Many plants grow on steep or some small, dense communities to be found where they are difficult to con around the homestead area. Like gorse, barberry has an excellent def­ It is readily spread by birds but the ense system in its long, s seedlings grow slowly and are controled ch prevent it being attac 6y high grazing pressure; making it more Again the means of control is likely to become established in areas, such and possibly burn, to clear and as fencelines and thickets, where it is land which has been invaded protected when young. Broom (B) PESTS A similar story can be told introduction of broom to t When Acland and Tripp arrived at Mount Peel ion. In February of 1860 J.B.A. Station the main pests were rats, wild dogs records that, he was in Chris ck- and wild pigs. The rats invaded the new ing the seeds of broom, etc .• ~ house, spoiling the stores, and so a food he planned to establish at the store on poles was erected, similar to those built by the Maoris. Wild dogs were few Today broom is especi 1y aggressive on in number and soon exterminated . L~ild pigs, the creek and riverbeds, as 1 as however, were very numerous and it took found at relatively high al tudes. s many years before their numbers were widespread throughout the station, appreciably reduced. quickly and seeding prolificall . Rabbits were of little significance before The above three weed species are about 1886, when on account with the gov­ ernment for rabbit killing first appeared in 14 J. B.A. Acl and IS Di ary, 1859: Acl and Papers, the account book. In 1887 Irabbits l had a Canterbury University Library. separate accounts section, and the cost of 15J.B.A. Acland's Notebook, dated controlling them had increased. Acl and Papers, Canterbury i ves i Libra

69 Costs for pest control;hares, rabbits, pigs etc.~ from the station's accounts books:- 16 1886 £ 9/16/9 1887 £12/6/6 1889/90 [43/7/- After 1892 this amount began to reduce and we can only assume that this was because the pests were being controlled. The pests on the station today do not appear to be very significant. Rabbits are not a problem because the high number of wet days appears to reduce their breeding rate. Mount Peel is lucky in this respect because Mesopotamia, further up the valley, has a serious rabbit problem. Hares are more prevalent than rabbits on the station and deer were, at one time, a problem.

16Mount Peel Station's Account Books: Acland Papers, Canterbury University Library.

70 Runholders' Attitudes

When Acland and Tripp first settl they will not do that, but they may, Peel Station they saw their 1 one and all, make a solid improve­ resource, to be manipulated ment in their condition, acquire a a great and profitable sheep moderate competence, and leave their pioneers in the true sense, children settled on their own free­ of their raw resources. hold land, in a fair way of doing 17 Acland tended to be a realistic well." strong character and on s return This short extract from his lecture in England he told of the opportuni England clearly shows J.B.A. Acland1s by this new country in realistic attitude to Mount Peel Station and what it meant to him; it was intended to provide lir--len go out to the coles him with a means of earning a living, as various reasons:- well as, providing a place, a home, for First. A man may go out hi s chil dren. officially, holding some or It was not only his children that he in­ other government appoi tended to settle, J.B.A. Acland also had Secondly. He may be ideas of creating a small station settle­ search of health or easure, ment on which to settle the farm workers. for scientific purposes. This seems to be reminiscent of the small, Thirdly. He may go self-contained villages he would have known make as much money as in England. years, and return to The influence of England to these early set­ Fourthly. He may be tlers was great. They must certainly have improve his condition missed the gentle English countryside while making for himself a new trying to establish themselves in a barren newland, and, as a true and'somewhat inhospitable, and foreign, prepared to cast slot environment. It was to be expected that they fortunes of s new would try to recreate some of the old land­ what they may. scape they knew in the Mount Peel landscape. In his journal of September 28, 1856, J.B.A. It is to those Acland is quoted as saying: objective in ew offers special advantages, with this object that the persons to I have all 1 17J.B.A. Acland1s Lecture, 1858: Acland go out. Let them not Papers, Canterbury University Library. v;s;onaryi'deas of

71 'I hope, if I live, to do my share to natural bush are reproduce England in this southern encouraged to re-establish, hemisphere. '18 ly areas and the steeper At the time he .was bringing fir ,cones' are difficult to manage for from Christchurch to Mount Peel Station in purposes. They could however order to begin his transformation of the c forestry potential and the fact a re bei~ng reta i ned for thei r va 1ue landscape. sh illustrates the present Together Acland and Tripp did begin to trans­ Peel landscape. form the natural Mount Peel landscape. The burning they did has already been discussed • and s family. have an but it must be remembered that, although we conservation to the many differ- would consider it detrimental to the environ­ sessed Mount Peel Station. ment today, it was an act done in ignorance ; its historical values, its of the natural conditions prevailing in this natural values, its economic new land. They were again trying to develop landscape value. While the the land according to the type of agricul­ as an economic, high ture they had known in England, as well as an effort has been made to the little experience they had gained while ral and historical heritage. working as cadets in Canterbury. the protection of natural h, the homestead has also been The forest around the homestead area was the control of a trust board. seen as a valuable resource for timber and protect it from any alterations not as one of the few remaining large areas reduce its significance as an of natural forest on the Canterbury Plains. i1 It wi1l act as a From the time settlement began it was ex­ J.B.A. and and his family. ploited to satisfy the Station's building ers of the Canterbury high requirements; as well as by other nearby years to come. settlements and stations. It was to take many years before the value of the native same me an effort is also being environment, as other than a timber or to return the homestead to something agricultural resource, was to be realised. its gi condition. As a result, ildi has been painted in its origi­ Attitudes have changed however, and the the present Aclands plan areas of natural bush and forest which re­ small brick cottage at the main are protected by the present station g' house, and which presently manager, Mr John Acland. Areas which show office. 18J.B.A. Acland1s Diary, 1856: Acland Papers, some aspects of the station do Canterbury University Library. detract its total potential as an

72 aesthetic agricultural landscape, tude of the Aclands ' is to i appearance of their property on with any agricultural devel also involves retaining some of ent natural characteristics of scape. Other aspects, such as the pl ferent tree species for shelter areas of the farm, and the buildings using colour and landscape, do help in creati farm environment in a visuall landscape. Since the station was first es attitudes of the successive managers, have changed an in their knowledge of the land. have always been concerned scape, the emphasis has changed re- creating part of a familiar ronment in a new land ,to preserving the natu attributes of the Mount Peel 1 its own sake. Development e to continue by co-ordi requirements of agriculture physical framework of the exis peG

73 75 , From the various sections discussed it can be seen that, Mount Peel Station may be divided into three main areas, based upon topography. These are:- (A) uplands (8) downlands (C) lowlands and terrace lands The other patterns of soil type, vegetation cover, and to a degree that of land develop­ ment, can also be seen to correlate with these three areas. The information discussed in the various sections of part I and part II of this dissertation, has been summarised in table From this summary table the various patterns in the Mount Peel landscape can be seen; illustrating that landscape patterns are a product of the physical properties of the land. It has not been my intention to discuss the possibilities for future landscape develop­ ments at Mount Peel Station, but, to give an account of the way in which the patterns and features, present today, have developed. All of the various aspects, which have been discussed, have contributed to the agricul­ tural landscape at Mount Peel Station. In some cases their contribution may not be positive, or enhancing. but they do illus­ trate that there is a need for concern where the development of the land resource is occurring.

n Figure 4: A summary table of the sections discussed, relati 3 main topogra ic areas

PART I (Bf) UPLANDS DOWN LANDS and TERRACE LANDS r _.------+------l-;;OGRAPHY Moderately steep to steep Rolling hills to ains and terraces to with some rocky bluffs and steep topography, lating land. and outcrops. Some narrow some steep llies. rolling ridge crests and 'razorback' ridges. Altitudinal range is above Altitudinal range is range is 1 ess 760m 460-760m I SOILS Yellow brown earths: Yellow grey earths Kaikoura steepland soils brown earths i Kaikoura hill soils Kakahu hill soils low soils Kaikoura soils Kakahu soils Hurunui steepland soils Hurunui hill soils Hurunui soi 1s NATURAL Mostly a mixture of silveri Mostly fescue tus y silver/fescue tussock VEGETATION fescue tussock grassland, 1 and with grassland th patches of with some snow tussock, tussock. matagouri scrub. especially on cold faces. scrub are present There is some sub-alpine is some broadl scrub at higher levels. In in the gull ies. the gullies there is some broadleaflpodocarp forestwith flax and hard fern in the damp areas. A small remnant of beech forest is also present. f10DIFIED The vegetation in this area The natural tussock Little remains of the nat- VEGETATION is the least modified since lands have bee i ural vegetation in these the European settled the with the introduction areas. Exotic grasses area. Broom;s a problem exotic grass s cies. have replaced the tussock in some areas and gorse is Some tussock patches re- grasslands and exotic present but lacks its us­ main but these are in trees and weed species ual agressiveness. and interspersed. N ve have become naturalised. vegetation has been large- Some natural bush rem- 1y removed though nants in the gullies. is a protective atti There are also pockets of towards the remnants. matagouri and cabbage '-----______--''--______I__ ~~_o_r:.~~ __i __s_a ____ p __r_o._b __ l_e_m_" _____.. _----'. __t_r __ e_e_s _o_n the te rra ce faces. 78 Figure 4: A summary e sections discussed, relating each to the 3 main topographic areas

PART II (B) ------+---Dm~NLANDS LOWLANDS and TERRACE LANDS DEVELopr~ENT Began in and Began 1855/56 with Acland Began 1855/56 and was used and Tri firing and Tripp. Besides devel­ mainly for pasture, though the land exotic oping agricultural pastures some oats were grown on the" grass species. they also cultivated the terraces near the homestead. soils in this area because Not suited to intensive they were less stony Better methods of developing development harsh- . the stony land have recently ness of the Further development of this resulted in improved pastures poor e im­ area has occurred with more which are more intensively portance the intensive pasture production used. natul~a 1 as a result of subdivision, and access; oversowin and to dressin . FIELD SIZE Smaller fields and an incre­ Smaller fields, and increased ased number of fencelines number of fencelines e.g. one paddock divided into e.g. one paddock has been nine smaller ones since 1960 divided into twenty smaller ones since 1960. LIVESTOCK Shee and cattle Shee , cattle and deer CROPS Supplementary winter feed Suppl ementary ~"i nter feed cro s. cro s. FORESTRY - presence Present Present - potential Good potential for production Good potential for production forestry, especially forestry; Pinus radiata Pseudotsu a menziesii (Radiata p~in gorse cov­ Douglas Fir), where access ered areas such as those is available for maintenance terraces near the riverbed, and 10 and in ullies. SHELTER BELTS Nil Some Present, especially on the lower terraces, near the homestead.

79

Site Selection Criteria

Acland and Tripp had spent Another important factor in chosing the time travelling around the homestead site was that it should be loc­ high country, during which time ated in a relatively central position to lived in a tent. With this experience they the runs owned by Acland and Tripp. this would have gained a feeling 1 made the travelling distance to all points and the climate, this d have 1 as short as possible. them in their careful choice of a si teo The homestead today stands well sheltered by trees at the base of the low hills. It The northwesterly nd was the has a pleasant view across the river ter­ in selecting a site for the sta races to the Rangitata River and its sculp­ homestead. Mount Peel is in a tured northern bank. corridor along the Rangitata so shelter is of prime importance. site chosen was partly shelte wind by the hills. Today it ered by the many trees. There were, however, other i con- siderations. Tancred had given J.B.A. Acland three important tips ing a site for a homestead:- (1) handiness to water (2) handiness to firewood (3) to be sure to make the ga where cabbage trees thickly, as they only closely on good 1 Mount Peel homestead was ess.ed of these qualities. The water came the nearby creek, and there would never have been any shortage of water Rangitata River nearby. was plenti 1 in the natural bush and scrub ng the area. Cabbage trees were common the garden, and can be clearly seen in homestead photos in the next section. 19Acland, L.G.D: Early Cante

83 Peel Station's Homesteads

When the party comprised of The roofing material for these first houses Mr and Mrs Smith and their was dried toi-toi thatch, as can be seen Ned Sampson, Sharp and, in the photograph. Clough arrived at Mount Peel, While Acland was away in England, between live in a tent. thin a March 1857 and January 1859, Tripp added arrival a site had been another building to Mount Peel Station. It ding of the first house was a small weatherboard house, with a ver­ menced. andah, divided into six rooms. Mr and Mrs The building was asi e Tripp lived in this new house, Acland lived constructed from cabbage tree in the old hut and whare on his return. 22 ich were plentiful in the area. It was Acland was married to Emily Weddell, eldest certainly more substanti daughter of Bishop Harper and sister to the approaching winter frosts. Mrs Tripp, in January 1860. When the part­ lecture he gave in nership between Acland and Tripp dissolvedin it thus:- 1862, it was Mr and Mrs Acland who erected 'The first house i we was the present Mount Peel homestead. run up in about 19 days, 1s Family tradition has it that the design for formed of !cabbage trees! the 'big house! - !Holnicote! - was imported 9 feet high and slightly s from England. John Stacpoole, however, the ground th a rather states that the design was executed in 1864 pitched roof to 1 of a a by Frederick Strouts who was working actively loft for stores over IVl in Canterbury around this time.23 room; the size of the se was 18 feet by 10 feet di ided nto The homestead was constructed, in 1865-66, rooms. ,20 of bricks which had been fired on the drive, A second house was commenced about 275 metres east of the church, by later. This one was made of Ben Ede and John Fitzgerald. All of the hewn planks, from the nea required timber was taken from the bush ing of two rooms, it measu along the sides of the lynn Stream. It was 5.5 metres. A lean-to, then pit sawn by Ryan, Bea, Thorn, Marshall was added to the back and Wyatt. The roof slates came to New Zealand from ~~ales; family tradition states 'more substanti al an the in every way .... '21 according to Tripp in his 1 22 Acl and, Early Exp 1orat; on at the Headwaters He.G. Tripp's Lecture, rs, of the Rangitata River. Canterbury University HStacpoole, Colonial Arch~tecture in N.Z., pl07 21 Ibid

85 that they came as 'ballast in a sailing comfort and enjoy- sh; p. 124 ace, ch was Originally, Holnicote also possessed a small best specimen of their octagonal conservatory, the structure can se that we saw. Mr be clearly seen in photograph It no more command of longer ex;tst, having been blown down in most of them, and the 1940's. make it s home and ly there, has been In 1897 Holnicote was pictured in a book by ld decorate to an Wheeler, the photograph was entitled:- of completeness' ... 'UP COUNTRY HOUSES:- Holnicote, Mount is one of very few Peel, the residence of Hon J.B. Acland. , made on the spot. This charming residence is on the large cottage style Mount Peel estate, Rangitata, and ish or Scotch shooting is very picturesquely situated - the dining some lovely views being in the shed, like one vicinity - forming pleasant points English country for riders and picnics. The gardens around the house are • it still has a sim- beautifully kept, and remind one today. It sits in the very pleasantly of a well ordered the l1s and beyond country residence in the Old see the snow-cropped mountains. Country. 125 ferous trees and oak trees, The home~tead at Mount Peel became well site, marking its position in known in the area; being one of the earliest landscape. 'grand' houses in the South Canterbury re­ It remai ns residence of the Acland gion. It has received many important vis­ family, been handed down through the itors over the years. Lord Lyttleton, when generations. travelling around Canterbury (in the late 1860's early 1870's?), recorded his impres­ sions as follows:- 'Once arrived and the toils of the journey surmounted nothing could 24Typescri pt sheet courtesy of Mr and Mrs Acland, Mount Peel Station. ilips et al., A story of Canterbury 25Photograph in Canterbury Museum Archives. ume II. p. 182

86 9: (1860) The early houses at Mount Peel Station. rtesy of Mr and Mrs Acland.

87 PHOTOGRAPH 10: (185??) Tr; pp IS weatherb From the Tripp collection, A.C. Barker courtesy of the Canterbury Museum.

88 1898) Holnicote, Mount Peel Station. and Mrs Acl and.

89 PHOTOGRAPH 12: The Church of the Holy Innocents at Mount Peel Station.

o of the Holy Innocents

J.B.A. Acland had faithfully of the Holy Innocents after the three worship where ever he happened infant children buried on the hillside: his ideas for the development Emily Dyke Acland, Helen Irvine, and Peel Station he had included Abner Clough. In 1869 J.B.A. Acland also of a church for the famil and became the first lay reader of the church. the surrounding district. March, 1866, he donated approxi Inside the church there are a number of 8 hectares of land to the stained glass windows, which have been Trustees so that his dream could donated by various people since 1889. The realised. following table shows the location of, and the information relating to the six win­ He erected the church hi dows. terrace, overlooking the s flats and homestead area. J.B.A. Acland died in 1904 and is buried stone was laid by his fe, beside the church. Every New Year's Eve, Acland, on the" 14th December, since 1882, it has become the tradition for a member of the Acland family to toll the The plans for the church were a bell and ring in the new year. the Reverend P.L.D. and, cor Broadclyst, Devon and Sub-dean The church grounds also contain many mature Cathedral. They had been trees, a mix of exotic and native species. Ashworth of Exeter, but Emi Acland changed his design be 11 turrets. The church is built of faced from the Rangitata riverbed and was constructed lliam well known for the di of Canterbury Provincial Chambers church. Some quarried stone lime for the mortar, was dray from Mount Somers. inside the church was totara, with some te totara was used for the t'a il s. Bishop Harper, first bishop consecrated the church on the December, 1869. It was

91 TABLE 2: A SUMMARY OF THE STAINED GLASS WINDOWS INSTALLED IN CHURCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENTS, MOUNT PEEL STATI Date position Donor In Memory

1889 north east Micheal Mitton manager of ~1ount Peel for 15 years

1904 south east Emily Weddell her daughter Acland Lucy Alice Dyke Thomson

1908 east J.B.A. Acland's J.B.A. Acland & children E.K. Acland

1917 north east Frederick . his wife: Villebors Emily Dyke Lysaught Lysaught

1929 south west Hugh Thomas their two sons: Dyke and Evelyn Geoffrey & Mary IvJary Acl and

1943 south N.Z. Sheep- H.D. Acland owner's Federation

92 The Homestead Garden

Both J.B.A. Acland and s , C.G. 1) Imported from Veitch1s Nursery, Exeter Tripp, were very keen tree anters. The 1861 - List of plants for J.B. Acland barren Canterbury Plains, ich Esq (in a letter dated June 21, 1861?9 stead overlooked, must have been 2 Apricot Moorpark stimulus to the two men to ant trees 2 Peach Noblesse their own land. They began as 3 Pear Chaumantelle 1859, many seeds .and trees be; 1 Cedrus deodara from England, Australia, and a 1 Wellingtonia gigantea (Se~uoiad~ndron America. Many were also reared giganteum) station1s gardens and anted 1 3 Camellias the 1860 s. 2 Azalea hardy The first trees, imported 2 Azalea indica England, were planted in 1859. 2 Magnolia grandiflora been transported to New Zeal an 2 Rhododendron cons icuum cases, and included a Douglas 1 Pyrus japonica now Sorbus japonica) (Pseudotsu a menzies;i) and a 1 ArI5UtU5 sp. Cedar Cedrus deodora). 2 Juniperus spp. English and Swedish 1 Broadl eaf fVlyrtl e (Myrtus sp.) From Sydney came a Radiata ne (P nus 1 Narrow leaf Myrtle radiata) which was also planted in the 1 Wistaria sinensis Mount Peel gardens in 1859. 1 English Yew (Taxusbaccata) Many trees were gradually added to 2 Tamarisk gardens, most coming from a few 1 Whortleberry (?) James Veitch I s nursery in Exeter, 2 Common sheoaks (?) (Casuarina spp.?) nursery in Sydney, Abbott s nurs 15 Roses Christchurch and some from nurseryman in Timaru. 1863 - Seeds also had a gardener and a nu Pinus canariensis ing tree seedlings; this was PTnUS halepensis around 1859, possi y earlier. Pinus muricata The following lists show the Pinus pinea the seeds and trees imported to Pinus insignis (now P. radiata) from tht~ee main sources.27.128 Robinia pseudo-acacia 27 Barnett, The hi story and devel t Tilija vulgoris of tree planting in Cante ry. Eucalyptus spp. 28Gardening papers: Acland Papers, Canterbury 29Letter contained in the gardening papers ;versity Library_ of the Acl and Pape)~s. Canterbury Uni vers i ty Library. A copy is in the appendices. 93 1866 - Trees (?) 2) Shepherd's Nursery, Sydney 1 Ash (Fraxinus excelsior?) 2 Double flowering cherry es coerula (probably Abies concolor) 3 Larch (Larix decidua) =Cr-y-p~tomeria japonica 2 Scotch fir (Pinus sylvestris?) Juniperus ~. 100 Seedlings Libocedrus chilensis 1 Spruce (Picea sp.) Pinus insignis (now Pinus radiata) 6 Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) 1 Thuja lobb~syn. Thuja plicata) (now Picea smithiana) 1869 - Seeds -sm-,"""·t;-;-h-;-i-a na Abies canadensis (now Picea glauca) ....,...... ,,--- bermuda (?) . Ab; es dou 1as ii coerula (probably Abies concolor) Abies excelsa now Picea abies) =-.-- insignis (now Pin~s radiata) .. ' Abies menziesii (now P;cea sitchensis) longifolia (now P,nus roxburghl1) Abies orientalis (now Picea oriental is) =-p,.--.n-u-s sabi ni ana Cedrus atlantica Cephalotaxus sp Cedrus deodara Libocedrus chilensis Chamaecyparis lawsoniana laxus japonica (now Cephalotaxus drupacea Juniperus communis va r fa s t i 9 i a ta ) Juniperus viginiana ucaria cunninghamii Picea pinsapo (now Abies pinsapo) Araucaria bidwillii Pinus benthamiana (now Abies alba) lhuja falcata (?) (probably a variety Pinus jeffrey; {now Pinus ponderOsa var. of Ihuja oriental is) var. jeffrey; Pinus lambertiana 3) is Nursery, Christchurch Pinus tuberculata (now Pinus attenuata) Sequoia sempervirens Oa.te un Taxus baccata _~ pumila (syn sylvestris) Thuja i antea Sorbus terminalis Thuja lobbii syn. Thuja plicata) Thuja occidentalis aria Date unknown ~,--'-- --- aucuparia Picea pectinata (now Abies alba) domestica Pi nus syl vestri s ~,-- inter-media --- latifolia

94 Also contained in the 'garden' file of the Acland Papers}O there is a hand written list of the nursery stock cultivated and sold by Mr French of Timaru, dated 1865. Some of the plants at Mount Peel Station were purchased from this nurseryman but there is no record as to which plants. In his diaries Acland has briefly recorded some of the stages of development in the garden. 31 Some of the earl iest references are to work done in 1859~ when, in January a garden was dug in front of the weather­ board house. In June, 1859, Smith and Tripp planted out some trees from Christ­ church, and in September aOnew flower gar­ den was laid out. Gradually the area was developed from these, tentative, beginnings and the basis of the mature garden of today was planted. These following sequence of photographs is designed to show the development of the g~rdens, and landscape, in the ho~estead area of Mount Peel St~ti~n. The photographs are courtesy of the Canterbury University Library, and are contained in the Acland Papers collection with one courtesy of the Canterbury Museum.

PHOTOGRAPH 13: The Pinus radiata planted by J.B.A. 30Gardening papers; Acland Papers, Acland in 1859. Canterbury University Library. 31J.B.A. Acland's Diaries; Acland Papers, Canterbury University Library.

95 PHOTOGRAPH 14: (1866) Holnicote, sho y after its construct- ion, sits in a landscape which is open pasture on at, much of the natural bush having been cleared the base of the hills. Young trees had been raised from seed and out this time, but the area is still dominated natural bush on the hills1opes.

96 I

15: (taken sometime between 1857-1865). The rst of ea y homestead buildings sit in the lee of the surroun ng hills and are further protected by the patch of natu bush in which they are sited. The weatherboard se ich can be seen in the left of the ra , was the residence of Mr and Mrs Tripp. The other dings are e original cottages and whare.

97 PHOTOGRAPH 16: (1866-1868?) This photog illustrates the way in which Holnicote originally sat in the landscape, sur- rounded by grassland, with a small cleared area. The garden area had been fenced off to protect it stock. The driveway in front of the homestead is s 1 in same position today.

The original cottages can be seen to the left, in a r state of repair; as well as a couple of a onal buildings.

98 ? --~--.--. -- ~ -.- .....T"'f~ ;,·rt::- .--~.-. 1",'.(')..,/ (h",1.ty fV ..z .1 %'1 ~7 u 72

17: ( ) The exotic planted in the garden area are beginning to nate is part of the landscape. Much of the native h has been removed and is no longer an important feature the homestead area. it collection, A.C. Barker photograh, courtesy of the Cante eum.

99 PHOTOGRAPHS 18 and 19: (mid 1890·s) The exo c trees are now quite domin~~t 1n the homestead landscape. r dark colours and strong forms are in marked contrast to the natural landscape with its tussock grassland nat- ural bush, containing rounded forms in shades of olive green. Hedges have replaced the fencelines around the homestead and a well developed roading system can be seen ng the important parts of the homestead area.

100 19

101 The homestead area today is closely sur­ Many records have been kept of the rate of rounded by many mature trees which totally growth of the exotic trees in the Mount dominate the area. The surrounding hillsides Peel gardens. Quite a few are well known are also planted with exotic tree species. as some of the largest trees, of their kind, Some native species do, however, still exist in New Zealand. Table summarises the in parts of the garden, living harmoniously in miscellaneous information to be found in the in the shade of oaks, poplars and many conif- ! Acland Papers and other reports on trees erous tree species. (Refer to PHOTOGRAPH 2.aJ and tree growth. low) . One of the more eye catching plants in the r~ount Pee~ ga~dens is the Lilium giganteum (now Cardlocrlnum). Imported from the Himalayas it has become naturalised beneath the trees. They form a striking feature in December when they carry creamy/white flow­ ers on stalks up to 3 metres tall. Over the years there have been a number of gardeners at Mount Peel Station, since about 1859}2 J. Chapman was the first gardener and he was followed by Edward Barrett. Barrett . had been recommended to Acland by W. Wilson of Christchurch;3an d began his duties as ' gardener at Mount Peel in December 1867. In 1874 W. Smith was the new gardener, stay­ ing at Mount Peel until 1880, and being fol­ lowed by Moloney, ~10ffat, and John Jacob who worked in the gardens from 1900 to 1925. The vegetable garden has remained in its present position at Mount Peel for over 120 years. It was the primary source of fresh vegetables for those who settled the station; until it was established they had to live on what they had brought with them and what 32 Typescri pt ' sheet courtesy of Mr and Mrs PHOTOGRAPH 20: Native plants(Grisellinta Acland, Mount Peel Station littoral is, N~opanax arboreum and large 33Letter of recomnendation contained in the tree ferns) established beneath large gardening papers of the Acland Papers, exotic trees. Canterbury University Library.

102 could be foraged from the bush. Having c Vegetable ma rr ow settled the station in May 1856, they had by c Pumpkin s Christmas of that year been able to grow some potatoes, peas, carrots and turnips, Key : which were much enjoyed for Christmas dinner}4 a sown July 24 , (1856) In his notebook, dated 1854, Acland listed b sown Augu st 18 ,20,21 (1856) the vegetable seeds he had brought from c sown November 2, (1856) England. 35 The following is that list and a d sown Nove mbe r 20 ,21 (1856) key to the dates that the seeds were planted. The tobbaco apparently grew quite well bd Asparagus (Ki 11 erton) when planted out in rows one metre apart. cb Beet (red) It would last two to three. years if cut cb Berberis (Asiatica?) down and covered with 15cm of earth in c Brocal i (white) cb Cauliflower (Ki 11 erton) c Celery (dwa rf white) b Cress (American) c Cress (curled) d Endive (white Batavian) d Endive (green curled) cd Endive (white curled) d Kale ; (Siberi.an) bd Lettuce Cw.bJte cros,s.l d Lettuce (whHe li.licia) cd Lettuce (Victoria) abc Onion (white J bd Parsley (Ki 11 erton) be Spinach Cpri ckly) c Sprouts (Brussel) c Turnip (molJsetail) cd Turnip (Craggs 6 weeks) c Tobacco

34Typescript sheet courtesy of Mr and Mrs Acland, Mount Peel Station 35J .B.A. Acland's Notebook, dated 1854: Acland PHOTOGRAPH 21: Mature oaks, with .l.r.li Papers, Canterbury Uni vers i ty Library. foetidissima underneath , in the eastern area of the homestead garden .

103 TABLE 3 The growth rates of some of the Notable trees in the homestead gardens . NAME ORIGIN YEAR YEAR PLANTED GERMINATED AT MOUNT PEEL APPROXIMATE SIZE : (HEIGHT/GIRTH/SPREAD) m.

1885 1920 1934 1936 1955 1962 1967 1970 1976

Pinus radiata Australia 1856 1859 (18 /3.5/-) (35.4/-/-) 37 /6. 37 /6.4/- 37 /8.3/- 38.5/ /- 17 /3.7/- -/9 /- Sequoia gigantea Devon 1856 1859 12.2/2.4/- 26.8/-/- 32.3/7.5/- 35 /9.2/- 35 /- /- -/10 /- Pseudotsuga menziesii Devon 1855 1859 18.6/ - /- 28.6/-/- 32.3/4.7/- 23.3/2/ 38.4/9.6/- 40.3/9.7/- Larix decidua (nut walk) (? ) (?) (? ) 23.8/-/- 25.2/2/- 25.3/ - /- 29.9/- /- 31. 4/- /- Sequoia gigantea (?) 1862 1864 (Bishop·s Wellingtonia) 37.5/7.6/- 40.2/8.5/-

Quercus robur (Big Oak) Devon (acorn) 1859 ( ?) 18.3/2.7/22.9 Pinus ponderosa Devon ( ?) 1856-70(?) 39 /14/­ 39.3/14 /- Cryptomeria japonica (? ) ( ?) /8.3/­ 28.3/9 /- 28.9/- /- Araucaria araucana Devon 1855 1859 /10.4/­ 18.9/11.3/": Cedrus altantica (? ) (? ) /13.5/- 29.5/5.6/- Cupressus lusitanica ( ? ) ( ?) 28 /13.9/- Cedrus deodara 1859 G. L. 1878: 17 /3.3/- 27 .4/9.4/-

SOURCE: Miscellaneous papers in the gard­ NOTE: Other information from the same source formation in the appendix has not been ening papers of the Acland Papers, Canterbury is a.lso given in the appendix. It is how­ eluded in this chart: and for the same University Library. ever, difficult to assess whether the data reason there may be some disparity in t' is for the same tree, or different ones of chart. the same species. For this reason the in- 1982

105

PHOTOGRAPH 22 : (about 1898) A panoramic ew of the area of Mount Peel Station which borders along e Rangitata River. In the background the steep northern bank of the river can be seen and beyond this are the treeless Canterbury Plains. There are a number of important homestead buildings visible in the foreground. Courtesy of Mr and Acland. 23: (1982) A view across the homestead area and to the northern bank of the Rangitata River. Plains in the distance are now marked with ter belts. A large number of paddocks are terraces and there are also some shelter lished in is area.

109 PHOTGRAPH 24: (1896) I Forest gate and hills' is is the Rangitata Gorge Road leading from Peel Forest to Peel Station, just inside the station1s present eastern boundary_

110 25: (1982) Rangitata Gorge Road. Some of the natural on remains in the paddocks along the side of the road itself is now tar sealed and the linear co is emphasised by the line of telegraph poles. hills to the left are still bush clad as are some of hills in the background of the photograph taken in 1896. Some naturalised clumps of willows are si e to t, near the river.

111 PHOTOGRAPH 26: (1896) I From the forest 1 veri The Rangitata River ;s visble to the le ew yet blocked by willows, as in photog 25.

112 27: (1898) 'The Rangitata riverbed (below Peel rest Park?). Although there are large amounts of natu along the bank, a clump of gorse is si e in le of the photograph.

113 PHOTOGRAPH 28: (1898)IThe Lynn Creek crossing"

114 29: (1982) Lynn Stream crossing. The natural natu h has receeded and exotic weed species now colonise edges of the riverbed. The large boulders have been placed along the riverbed to control the conside ich occurs every time the ri ver

115 PHOTOGRAPH 30: (1982) Looking up the valley of Stream, there ;s natural bush present, especially on shady eastern slopes. On the left hand side colonies gorse are visible on the hillside, as well as a p nant block of forestry. The hole in the middle of is forestry block is a patch of gorse and barberry.

116 31: (1898) Natural bush along the upper reaches am, Peel is visible in the background.

117 PHOTOGRAPH 32: (1898) 'Looking across Burke's at' The hills to the west of the homestead area as seen the lower downlands, with mixed tussock/exotic grassland and wooded gullies.

118 PHOTOGRAPH 34: (1982) The razor-back from Barker's Flat showing the changes PHOTOGRAPH 33: (1898) "Razor- in the texture of the grassland and the reduction in native tree species. r"s The clump of trees from which the original photograph was taken is still in existence on a middle river terrace.

119 PHOTOGRAPH 35: (March 1897) 'Oat stacks in As shown by this photograph the oats were grown river terraces and the resultant oat stacks i new and dominant forms into the landscape. to note is the lack of shelter in the agri scape; by this time the homestead area had of semi-mature trees.

120 .36 : .(1982) The upper terraces and lower down- lands behi homestead area. The natural tussock grassland has replaced by exotic pasture with many new paddocks used for crops. There are still some patches of h in the gullies. Scattered gorse plants are sible on the hillside and another important feature access roads cut into the hillside.

121 PHOTOGRAPH 37: (about 1898) View of the area.

122 PHOTOGRAPH 38: (1898) Mount Peel homestead.

PHOTOGRAPH 39 : (1982) Moun t Peel homestead

123 PHOTOGRAPHS 40- 45: (1898) Mount Peel Station homes and gardens.

124 125 PHOTOGRAPH 42:

126 127 45: PHOTOGRAPH 44L:

128 : (1898) 'View from the stables' This view cape is to the homestead:

129 PHOTOGRAPH 47: (about 1898) 'Station e l is i1 ng no longer exists but it was situated on the hill to the west of the homestead area.

130 PHOTOGRAPH 48: (about 1898) The cottage behind the homestead.

PHOTOGRAPH 49: (1982) The cottage behind the homestead.

131 133 T~e partnership dissolved in 1862 with (1) J.B.A. ACLAND BIOGRAPHY FROM Acland on Mount Peel with 100,000 acres. CANTERBURY MUSEUM BIOGRPHY CARDS. Tripp sold Mount Somers while Acland was in England, the farm being short of cash. AClAND, J.B.A. 1823-1904, S1 son Acland was one of those who hoped to make Si r Thomas Dyke. Born Ki 11 ertan, Somerset, an estate on the model of an English England. manor; with a manor house, chapel and Educated at Harrow and cottages. Others who had the same ambition Oxford - took B.A. wi rna were Richard Bethell, and Charles Reed of in 1845. Westerfield. Started building cottages soon after they took over Mount Peel hoping Studied law and called to the that men would settle down and raise fam­ member of lincolns Inn. He and ilies on the station. House built of Tripp, another W. Comily man, bricks baked on the site by Ben Ede of together in the Royal Stuart at Ashburton and J. Fitzgerald of Arowhenua. lyttleton 4.1.55. lord lyttleton on his tour of Canterbury Worked as a cadet for H.J. at stayed there and approved it. . Malvern Hills. late 1855 he and Tripp set out to look 1869 Church:Brassington, well know for his sheep country. Found all easy work on the Provincial Council Chambers taken and capital of 2,000 each i came 'up' from Christchurch to build it. cient to buy a run which was alrea r- Boulders from the riverbed and carted lime ted. They took up hill country from Mount Somers for mortar. Bishop though they were laughed at and Harper consecrated it 12/12/69. J.B.A. by others they stuck to their i and Emily Acland are buried there. Put their first sheep on Ben In a farm review of South Canterbury, the Sherherds Bush Station until Lyttl eton Times reporter refers to II the ready to receive them. beautiful mansions and grounds of the Hon. J.B. Acland ...... which were an object of In four years they had successful admiration in the days when the coach used for 250,000 acres which incl the upper ferry." Peel, Orari Gorge, Mount Somers a of Hakatere and Mesopotamia Stations. 1865 nominated a member of the Legislative Council and he remained an active member 2700 ~heep by 1858. for 34 years. They explQred the headwaters Elected to Geraldine Roads oard in 1864. Rangitata, Orariand Chairman of Mount Peel Roads Board 1870- 1900.

135 Fellow of Christ1s College. e ng (the second in the Member of Canterbury College Board and of ), Percy Cox and Sarah Harper the Senate of the University of N.Z. same day. Preached regularly at Mount Peel, being Sons: a lay reader. 1863 Died 24/4/1944 Lay member of the Diocesian Synod and was stls College, 1874-81. one of the three lay members of the first , Oxford. general Synod of N.Z. which was held in 02 to Mary Eveline, Wellington 1/3/59 and again in 1868. Per­ of the Rev. Canon St 11 haps his church work meant more to him than any other of his activities. Peel after ton died stchurch, ,Oxford. B.A. Far from being a natural farmer - appeared Somerset. to have very little natural liking or - understand; n9 Of s.tock- a.nd not -a great deal ed 12/2/42 more.of men. A.J. BlakistonSaid he did College, 1880-85, not recognise his head shepherd that he B.A. Barrister had employed for ten years. N.S.W. 1902. chairman of the Canterbury Great tree planter and good with bees. Govenes Another hobby was the turning of wood or vers i ty Sena te ivory. Board .Z. Sheepowners Union Father died in Kil1erton in July 1871, aged tralia to Elizabeth Grace 84. In June 1861 a statue had been erected in his honour, in Northern Hay, a pleasure ground of Exeter. He represented Devonshire Born 1874 Died (?) in Parliament 1812-8 and 1820-23, 1837-57. surgeon, knighted 1933 to Evelyn Mary, daughter Founder member of the Christchurch Club and of Dorchester. for some years had a house and 74 acres at North Canterbury Hospital Opawa. Advertised for sale October 1873. 21 years. 50,000 acres at Mount Peel resumed by the Government for closed settlement in 1912 Peel after Mylton died and 25,830 sheep were sold. Sale organised stchurch, Oxford. Formed by his sone H.D. Acland, prices were good. l~rton, Somerset. Married at St Michaels 17/1/60 to Emily Weddell, eldest daughter of Bishop Harper. 1861

136 Marri.ed 15/9(85 to Walter Si on, el (2) LETTERS est son: of Rev Arthur ( master of Wanganui College. SOURCE:The original letters are contained in the gardening papers of the Acland Mary Born 1865 Died 1916 papers,Canterbury University library Married to Frederick llebois Harriet Born 1866 ed LETTER: TO J.B.A. ACLAND? Married to Mayor ibald r FROM JAMES VEITCH AND SON Lucy Born 1869 ed 1903 Married to Oliver Scott 1898 DATED: 21 June, 1861 Elizabeth Born 1870 ed IISir on a summarised sheet is a list of plants Married to Charles , a in the case for J.B. Acland Esq. as request­ at Orad Gorge. ed. Emily Rosa Dyke Born 1873 (?) Yours sir, Married to Herbert Bes lliams (signed) James Veitch and Son" (Bangr) J.B . Acland transmitted to s 112 Apricot Moorpark strong character and considerable 2 Peach Noblesse They gave much work to ic 3 Pear Chaumantelle of course their mother was a 1 Cedrus Deodara 1 Wellingtonia gigantea s grandson Jack Acland, son 3 Carnell ias was a member of parliament and a 2 Azalea indica the N.Z. Wool oard and chairman ( 2 Azalea Hardy Sir John Acland, date (?) 2 Magnolias grandiflora 2 Rhododendrons conspicuum Great grandson, John Acland, pres y manages Mount Peel Station. 1 Pyrus japonica 1 Arbutus 2 Juniperus English and Swedish 1 Broadl eaf r,1yrtl e 1 Narrow leaf Myrtle 1 Wistaria sinensis 1 English Yew 2 Tamari sk 1 Whortleberry? 2 Common (sheoaks)? 15 Roses"

137 LETTER: TO J.B.A. ACLAND ~ I have packed the e FROM JAMES VEITCH order. The plants occupy the Fruit Trees are DATED: 18 November, 1864 11 be quite full. of October the plants will ished and I think have a By desire of Mrs Mills I herewith beg to reaching their destination enclose a packet, of Seed of the Lapageric on. IRosea l which I hope will turn out satis­ factory. a selection of the very best Roses~ Rhododendrons, etc. Taking Mrs Mills wished me to send to you some ants are all well ripened Seed of the Deodara and Wel1ingtonia but all e to stand so long a voyage. the seeds of the former that have arrived in this country have turned out useless and etc the Wellingtonia I have been unable to pro­ (si ) James Veitch cure in time and should I succeed in getting it will forward some by a late mail. Hope the enclosed will safely reach you. J.B.A. ACLAND I am Sir JArvJES VEITCH (si gned) James Veitch fl 7 November, 1861 Added note to letter: flNovember,(1861~. Veitch sent 200 Deodara seeds fresh imported ir from India and a small packet of Wel1ington­ your letters from Killerton ia seeds from California. 1I Poudeckam Castle. I regret llerton was not forwarded by we could then have sent off your LETTER: TO MRS MILLS case ants by the midday train today FROM JAMES VEITCH t ng your letter in time we DATED: 16 September could send it by this days evening ( ?) it ought to be in London tomor­ II I duly received your favour of the 29th row and ivered Saturday morning. We had (1) respecting plants and fruit trees for not recei instructions from J.W. New Zealand. addressed the case as you Ms Stephens 90 Bishopsgate. I With the exception of the Fruit Trees, in and shall advise him by this whi ch wi 11 not be ready to pack up for: t having d6ne so it" i~ gone

138 by the South Western Rail to N.Z. Institute of Horticulture to be held tion it being near the docks at in Timaru in February, I have been chosen to We will also write by this Post give the Banks' lecture, and have selected Wansey and I trust the case 11 as my subject liThe History and Development good time, as for the plants be; of Tree Pl anti ng in Canterbury. II established in the case I I am therefore desirous of obtaining of their reaching their desti on in authentic information on the early introduc­ order. I think it will be better to keep tion and planting of exotic trees by those the case closed during the If who pioneered this project. Would you be glass gets broken to sea it so kind as to supply me with information replace any) glass (by a I relative to the dates of introduction of don't think the plants 11 seed or plants of the various trees that on the voyage. have been made use of, together with dates It would be very desirable to and places of planting and the results ob­ placed on the Poop to prevent tained. If there is any information which getting in by which we have 1 you might consider of interest, I would several valuable cases of ants be pleased to receive it also. the cases being quite saturated in As the time between now and the date of enclose as you desire the Bill the lecture is somewhat short, it would be sent last spring and of the case appreciated if you could give this matter warded. For the Box sent to your early attention. year but which was not s pped charge. I trust you 11 have Yours faithfully, easant passage. (signed) M.J. Barnett, I remain Superintendent ll (signed) SOURCE: Contained in a copy of the Journal of the Royal New Zealand Institute LETTER: TO SIR HUGH of Horticulture, July 1946, Volume FROM M.J. BARNETT, 16, No 1, in the cataloged garden of the Christchurch papers of the Acland Papaers, Office of Parks Canterbury University Library. Plantations Department. DATED: 22 , 1 INFOR~1ATION EXTRACTED FROM A LETTER TO SIR JOHN ACLAND IIDear Sir, FROM BANKSIA COTTAGE, 18 RUE BALGUERI, the annual conference AKAROA

139 DATED: 9 March, 1978 (3) TREE

The verandah rose is IBlush Noisette l and has been Canterbury gardens for over 100 at level 9.4 m years. It was originally raised in South Carolina by Phillipe Noisette, who sent 37.36m cuttings to his brother, Louis, in France. imported in 1859 and planted From there it probably reached England and in 1878. the question of its delivery to New Zealand is from Exeter Nurseries ;s speculated upon. hand corner of the Chruchyard) at breast height 1.8 m 39.8 m' 1 of s species recorded! nus ponderosa (in the Churchyeard near the Sitka spruce) breast height O.7m 26.1 11;1 unusual type th a slender, closely­ , tapering to a point at the etely ike the conventional e brush top.!

at breast height 2.4 m 38 m 38 m is a mass of large mal­ from 3 metres above ground level. 1953 one large section of branches fell from it. producing seven cords of wood. Planted in it is one of the oldest trees of this es Zealand and, in terms of 1 content; could be one of the 1 in the world. There is no other

140 P. radiata known to have such a TREE MEASUREMENTS (12.6.62) Anaucaria araucana height (m) girth (m) 1970: diameter at breast 3.7 m height 17 m Sequoia gigantea 'The largest of many such trees in Mount Peel 26.8 6.4 South Canterbury.' Mount Peel (1934) 31 5.5 !lex aquifolium. Drive 25.2 4.7 NE Empson's Copse 24.6 3.1 1970: girth at 0.3m 2.4 m N Drive W 4.6 height 6.7 m N Drive E 3.6 spread .6 m Pinus pinea lari x dec; dua --.. 1970: diameter at breast L3m Mount Peel Church­ height .5 m yard N 24.6 2.3 spread .3 m Mount Peel Church- yard S 2.3 'Planted about 1861, Mount Peel Church­ larger of twb, heavi yard (1934) 25.2 2.4 planted about this Nutwalk 23.7 2.0 Empson's Copse 1.8 Pseudotsuga menziesii Drive 1st gate 1.8 1970: diameter at breast g L8m height .8 m Picea sitchensis Planted 1869. NW Churchyard 24.3 4.0 Picea excelsa SOURCE: Burstall. Histo c nota e trees of New Zealand: rth Cante Churchyard 17.0 1.9 South Canterbury, and Chatam Is1 West of drive (unpublished report). (North gate) 25.8 3.0 Populus nigra 'Italica' SE 33.4 3.0 SE (1934) 34.7 3.6 W 2.9 W (1934) 5.1

141 N 3.0 Seedling Eucalyptus N (1934) 3.6 in brush .4 .33 in 21. 3 3.7 Quercus robur in seedbed 18.2 2.7 30.7 3.3 nutwalk W 2.2 asp. 2.0 Cedrus deodara Wof middle bridle VJa 1 k 17.0 3.3 west 1.9 Pinus insignis 1.5 Planted (1860) 35.3 5.4 (1934) 38.0 6.2 1.6 CUQressus atensis (?) var. IPendula l 12.2 1.9 ing papers, Acland Papers, iversity Library. Cedrus atlantica

E lawn 19.0 2~0 J.B.A. is ary J 20, 1865. Cr'yEtomeria japonica A is made Juniperus goviniana Nutwalk 18.2 1.6 Berberis fortunii Nutwa 1k (1934) 1.8 Pinus coul ted 2.2 CUEressus goveniana old drive gates E 2.1 EucalYEtus gunnii east of group of trees 28.8 4.2 west of group of trees 23.4 3.0

142 'NATURAL CARRYING CAPACITY SOIL NAME PARENT NATIVE SOIL NUTRIENT PRESENT (EWES/ACRE) POTENTIAL RESPONSE TO LIABILITY TO RAINFALL P.ND SOIL GROUP MATERIAL VEGETATION TOPOGRAPHY TYPE STATUS USES PRESENT POTENTIA USES 9ASTURE TOPDRESSING SOIL EROSION p.a. (mm) (A) MOUNTAIN SOILS i KAIKOURA STEEPLAND i Greyvlacke and grey- Snow tussock gras~~Steep to very steep, Crumb/nutty silt :Very Low Very extensive 1:20 ? ~Protection grass­ Severe wind and 1125-187~ (Upland and high countrywacl:e detritus. grassla~d with :mainl~ graded s60P~ loam; very friable: sheep production 'land mainly, with sheet, scree and yellow brown earths) Also localised ac- sub-alplne scrub Ideposlts (27-38 ) . on greywacke rub- and grassland : some very extens i VE­ gully. Vulnerabl cretion of soil in places; small :with rock outcrops ble. protection. sheep and wool to intense Pros t blo~n from neigh- area of beech for~also rocky bluffs; production. action where bare bouring slopes. : est. inarrol-" rolling of vegetation. :ridge crests and Isome I razorback I jri dges wi th crumb­ (+ KAIKOURA HILL SOILS) tling rock. (+ KAIKOURA SOILS) l(lOOO-1675m) i URUNUI STEEPLAND . Greywacke and Fescue/silver tus~Steep with some Medium Very extensi ve to ' 1 Extens i ve to semi -: Very good response: Sheet, part i Cl1- 675-1125 : (Lowland yellow brown :weathered collu- sock grassland moderately steep. ! extensive sheep : extensive sheep to:larly in bush. earths) :viurr.. Some patches with scrub and i(l50-900m) wi th some protec- . and cattle. S+P+L+Mo : of loess. bush. i tive forestry. ! URUNUI HILL Greywacke and grey~ Silver/fescue tus-}'<1oderately steep Nutty,friable on II'Medium Extensive and 1 1~ Semi-extensive Very good response'Sheet and slips. ;675-1125 wacke loess and i sock grassland ~ith some steep blocky, stony, semi-extensive sheep and cattl e. . to: weathered collu- I with patches of :gullies. friable; and mas-, sheep and cattle. S+P+L+Mo vium. ! broadleaved/podo- i(Up to 900m) sive stony on ! I carp forest in i shattered rock. I igullies; someflaxi + HURUNUI SOILS) I and herd fern. I I t .. - --_.. --~---.-- --_ ... DIFFERENCES BETWEE~_SOIL CATEGORIES (A) AND (B) The above mountain soils differ from the following downs soils in that they occupy topographical areas at a higher altitude; areas of steeper, broken topography and they tend to have shallower, stonier profiles. The production capacity of mountain soils compared to downs soils is lower, dnd, therefore, are used only_in an extensiv~I1l~Dn~r,__ __.____ . (8) DOW-N SOILS

IKAKAHU SOILS GreYi'!acke loess and Fescue tussock :Rolling ridges i Silt 1oams . .Low Extens i ve sheep 2 2~ .Semi - in tens i ve Very good response Sheet. ~ 750-1000 (Yellow grey earths ;and greywacke and igrassland. f ( 150-550m) and supplementary sheep, cattle and to: to yellm'/ brown earths igravels. I I feedcrops with supplementary feed S+P+Mo+L intergrade)! I I semi-extensive crops. I I ! sheep and supple­ ! ! I mentary feed crops II

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SOIL CATEGORIES (B) AND (C) The above downs soils differ from the following terrace and bottom land soils in that they occupy the higher, rolling hill slopes and they have deeper topsoils and are less stony. They tend to have a lower nutrient status and so are less productive and, therefo_r~_~_~s_e_? l_.e ss intensiv~)y_. __ _ -1------, ------·--··------·----·-1----- ,C) TERRACE AND 1- I BOTTOM LAND SOILS I I i I 1AYFIELD SOILS Greywacke ISilver tussock Flat to gently Silt loams, some !Hi9h I~Jind when 875-1125 (Recent) Sem~-extensive 'I 2~ 4 ~ntensive sheep an~ alluvium. jgrassland; few undulating shallow or stony. I sheep, cattle, sup-i Fattle, supplement cultivated Iclumps of black (300-450m) l plementary feed I' ary feed crops and i Ibeech forest. crops and cash ~ash crops, and I crops. Some semi-! ~arket gardening. l . I extensive sheep : I I 1 and supplementary I i I ! feed crops. WAIMAKARIRI SHALLOW lGreywacke alluv­ I !Silver/fescue tus­ Flat plains with Sandy loams to 'jlMediUm Extensive sheep 1 2 Extensive sheep !Good response to Wind 500-875 SOILS iium; some fine ilsOCk grassland and some old stream silt loams, shal- to Low (Recent) isandy loess and and supplementary I and cattl e is + P matag6uri scrub. courses; also few low and stony l idune sand. feed crops and I I sand dunes near loams. I cash crops with I flood plains. ! extensive sheep and I (Up to 335m) " cattle. HORORATA SOILS 'Greywacke alluv­ :Fescue tussock ,Flat to undulating M3inly silt loams IMedium !i um. Extensive to semi­ 2 3~ Semi-intensive Very good response I Slight wind 750-1000 [grassland. terraces. ,some stony silt, extensive sheep sheep and cattle, 'to combined applic-/ (180-450m) 'loams or bouldery ~ and supplementary supplementary feed ations of . 'silt loams. !feed crops. crops and cash IS + P + L + Mo I jcrops. . ------.------'------_._-----_._------_...... ~-- I 4BBREVIATIONS: S = superphosphate; P phosphate; L = Lime; M = Molybdenum; kThe information contained in this chart has been summarised from the New Zealand Soils Bulletin (27) SOILS OF THE SOUTH ISLAND. 145 ACLAND, J.B.A. Early explorations on G. Estates the headwaters of the tata H. House plans River. N.Z. Alpine Journal 1(1): I. Histories and reminiscences 1892. 1.1. 1. 3. ACLAND, J.B.A. Sheep farrming in New Zea­ 1.10. land. London, W. Clowes and Sons, Lll. 1965. K. Photographs and art work A copy is held in the rs, K.1. i), ii), iii), v), vi i) Canterbury University K.2. i), ii), iii), iv) N. Miscellaneous ACl.AND, L.D. A brief history of the set- N.1. Gardening papers: trees and gar- tlement of Canterbury. A typescri dens at Mount Peel. annotated copy held in Acland Papers, Canterbury P 1 i c eum. (Access to material from the last 40 years is restri cted. ) ACLAND, L.G.D. The early Canterbury runs. Christchurch, Whitcoulls, 1975. 4th edition. ALLAN, H.H. Vegetation of Mount Peel, Canterbury, N.Z. Part I - The ACLAND PAPERS, manuscri collection. forests and shrublands. Trans. N. Canterbury University brary. N.Z. Inst. 56:37-51, 1926. A.. Family background, es etc. ALLAN, H.H. Vegetation of Mount Peel, B. Canterbury, N.Z. Part II - The B.2. Diaries grasslands and other herbaceous B.2. i)-xvi), xvii). ii), x) communities. Trans. N.Z. Inst. B.3. Letterbooks 57: 73-89, 1926. B.3. xvii) Corres dence B.4. Notebooks ANDERSON, C.T. The explorarion and B.4. i), ii), IV, ix) settlement of the Upper Rangitata B.6. Mi s ce 11 aneous district. Thesis, geography, B.6. i), ii), iii), University of Canterbury, New C. Henry Dyke Acland Zealand. 1942/43. F. Station records F.l. Stat; on di ad es ANDERSON, J.C. Jubilee history of F.l. i), ii), iii), i • vL South Canterbury. Christchurch, F.4. Accounts Whitcombe and Tombs, 1916. F.4. i), ii), ivL v),

147 BARNETT, M.J. The history and devel- KE P.M. From the beginning. Timaru, opment of tree planting in Cant­ maru Herald, 1956. erbury. Royal N.Z. Inst. Hort. 16 (1) :7-10, 1946. , P. Pee 1 Fores t. Ch ri s tchurch. and Survey Dept., for the BURDON, R.M. High country. Whitcombe Forest Park Board, 1972. and Tombs. pp.46-56. G. (to The natural history BURSTALL, S.W. Historic and notable of Canterbury. Reed, 1969. trees of N.Z. : North Canterbury South Canterbury and Chatam High country journey. Reed, Islands. New Zealand Forest 2nd edition. pp. 58-63. Service, Forest Research Inst­ itute, Forest mensuration report N.Z. SOl REAU Soils of the South 22. 1973. Isl N.Z. D.S.I.R. Soils Bureau Bulletin 27, 1968. CUMBERLAND, K.B. Landmarks. Reader1s . Digest Services, 1981. Ill! ,N.C. ;GIBBS, H.S. ;MllLER

GILLESPIE, O.A. South Canterbury - A ILl! N.r.; I ,D. ;GARDNER, W.J. record of settlement. Timaru, (general editors) A history of Timaru· Herald, 1958. Canterbury Volume II - general history 1854-1876 and cultural aspects, 1850- HACKWELL, K. Gorse:A helpful nurse 1950. Christchuch, Whitcombe and Tombs. plant for regenerating native 197L forest. Forest and Bird 13(5):25-28, 1980. PI , R. Ea y South Canterbury runs. HARPER, B. The kettle on the fuchsia. A.H. and A.W. Reed, 1967. 172p. PI , R. Early South Canterbury runs. A.H. and A.W. Reed, 1971. HARTE, G.W. Mount Peel is a hundred. Timaru, Herald Printing Works, 1956. REED, A.i-L The story of Cantebury - 1 ast 83 p. eld settlement. A.H. and A.W. 1949. KEAR, B.S. :GIBBS, H.S. :MILLER, R.B. Soils of the downs and plains, , J. Colonial architecture in N.Z. Canterbury and North Otago. N.Z. A.I-L A.ltJ. Reed, 1976. 224p. D.S.I.R. Soils Bureau Bul1eti~ 1967. 92p.

148 WHEELER & SONS Photograph en Up country houses - nicote, Peel. Canterbury Public Museum. The forest trees on Waikari Hills Stations. Canterbury Forestry Faun (unpublished) TAYLOR, R.L. Weeds of the roadside and waste ground in N.Z. Christchurch, Caxton Press, 1981.

149