Finishing Formulas
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FINISHING FORMULAS Some woodworkers keep a tight lid on their recipes, but we pour it all out. ome say that finishing can be the stain’s penetration. Because a “ruination of a nicely built these stains depend on soaking Spiece of furniture.” Well, to into the wood to obtain the best build that piece you have to study results, sanding too fine should the different techniques and have be avoided. I hope that’s music access to good plans. Plans and to your ears because most of us procedures are now shared openly complain about sanding. by most woodworkers. But when What’s important is to remove it comes to finishing, some of all imperfections, so while you the best woodworkers slip into don’t need to go past #180 grit, a secret back room and never let you do need to sand effectively to their exact procedures see the gain the upper hand. I use a ran- light of day. dom-orbit sander and begin with How are you supposed to #120 grit, if necessary, and move become a better finisher if you are through the #150 and #180 grits, not shown the techniques and for- followed up by hand sanding with mulas? That’s why we are “blowing #180 grit, making sure to move in the doors off” this little-shared the wood’s grain direction. Also, but highly important aspect of use sandpaper to knock off any woodworking. This article is an sharp edges on the project because all-access pass to the finishing these will show wear first. methods I’ve used for a number of projects from my books and A Homemade Wipe-on magazine articles. Finish for a Clear Topcoat Once the sanding is complete Sand Less Than You Think we can move on. Some projects All finishing starts with the sand- require that you add only a pro- ing, and I think that many of us tective clear topcoat. I have used sand more than necessary. Once the commercial products that you move to a paper that’s finer are available for a wipe-on finish, than #180 grit, you begin to close but I keep returning to my own the wood pores, which will affect mixture. Why? It’s cheap and easy by Glen D. Huey Comments or questions? Contact Glen at 513-531-2690 ext. 1293 or [email protected]. Photo by Al Parrish 70 POPULAR WOODWORKING Month 2007 to make with ingredients from a of the dyes to fading in sunlight. volume low pressure (HVLP) spray the drawer will hinder the sliding hardware store. The alcohol-soluble dye dries system, or spray gun of some type, of the drawer and not allow any My mixture is one-third tur- too fast, leading to the possibil- to apply the dye. HVLP systems naturally occurring patina. Use pentine, one-third spar varnish ity of lapping marks. And the are reasonably priced and will the edge of the dovetails as your (a marine finish) and one-third oil-soluble dyes can cause sev- make your finishing a snap. cut-off point for staining. boiled linseed oil (sometimes eral problems, including choos- You can apply dye with a brush With the stain applied to a abbreviated as BLO). Make sure ing a compatible topcoat as well (in fact you should stain any draw- drawer front, set the first drawer it’s boiled – not raw – linseed oil. as combustion concerns. ers with a brush) but to stain an aside and start staining the next. I mix enough in a batch for about The mixing of the dye is a very entire piece with a brush is more As you set aside the second drawer, 11⁄2 applications to my piece. scientific procedure. Simply mix difficult. If you plan to brush your apply another coat of color to the The turpentine thins the mix- one ounce of powder to four cups finishes I would keep the projects first drawer. This method allows ture, which allows it to seep into of water. Most manufacturers rec- on the small side. the drawer fronts to obtain the wood pores. As the oil/varnish ommend mixing in that ratio, or The staining begins with same depth of color that the case dries, the first coat acts to bridge making the stain twice as strong any drawers in your project. Use will achieve during the process between the pores. Successive by mixing two ounces of stain into a foam brush to apply the stain of spraying. applications then allow the finish the same amount of water. In my in an even coat. Only stain the As for the carcase or any proj- to build. Keep the surface of your experience, there is no reason to drawer fronts. Don’t stain any part ect that has no drawers, spray the work wet for five minutes before mix the stronger solution. of the actual drawer box. Staining dye onto your piece until it drips wiping away any excess. If your tap water is high in and finishing the interior parts of from the project and the piece is After the first coat, you need any one chemical, such as lime, to allow the mixture to thicken use bottled water to reduce any The most effec- before wiping the excess. Look for chances of the chemicals affecting tive way to apply the consistency of honey. Once the stain’s color. But generally, I the stain to a the mixture dries to that consis- use plain tap water. That’s it! drawer front tency, wipe away any excess before Heat the water until it’s sim- without getting it dries completely. Create more mering (you should see small bub- the interior of the mixture as needed for the next bles rising from the bottom of the drawer covered coat. But at this stage add only pan). Place the powder into an is to use a foam brush. equal parts of the varnish and oil, opaque container; I use an empty leave out the turpentine. You don’t orange juice jug to minimize the need to have any soaking into the reaction to sunlight. Then add the grain at this point. water when it reaches tempera- Also, there is no need to ture. Replace the lid tightly and sand the surface between coats shake the mixture. Do this care- provided you have wiped all the fully. Pay attention to the lid. I’ve excess off your work. The beauty had one loosen as I began to shake of this oil/varnish blend is that if – not a pretty sight. Some instruc- you missed wiping an area, you just tions say it’s necessary to strain need to go back and sand that spot the stain prior to use, but I’ve not before applying another coat. It is found that to be necessary. a forgiving topcoat. Apply three Won’t the water-based stain coats to your work to build up the raise the wood’s grain when you finish; a fourth coat will enhance apply it? Yes, the grain of your piece the sheen. will raise – so you need to trick the wood into believing that this has Dying to Add Color already happened before you apply If I need to first color the piece, the solution. Use a water-soaked I use Moser’s aniline dye (avail- sponge or cloth to wet the entire able from woodworker.com). Ani- project, then allow it to dry and line dyes are soluble in water, oil lightly sand with #180 grit, knock- or alcohol. I use water-based dye ing down the raised grain. because it’s easy to mix and to In applying the dye my rule is Any case can be stained with a high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) system. clean up. In addition, the water- to saturate the project. This is why Flood the surface when applying stain. Let the stain soak into the wood in soluble dyes are the most resistant I recommend you purchase a high order to get the best results. popularwoodworking.com 71 totally saturated. You want to see not have any to wipe away, you pooling on the flat surfaces. Once did not saturate the piece! you have given it a good soaking, Now the warning – a fresh, wet let it sit for five minutes and wipe stain looks great. In a few hours, away any excess stain. If you do after the stain has dried com- pletely, you may feel the piece is ruined because of the dull, lacklus- ter appearence. It’s not. My heart SUPPLIES stopped when I first saw this hap- All three of Glen’s books are pen. Worry not – the next coat of available at a discount to finish, be it linseed oil or sealer, members of WoodWorker’s will renew that great look. Book Club (woodworkersbook- Glue stains or spots have a club.com or 386-246-3404), tendency to show up during the from Popular Woodworking Books (fwbookstore.com, click staining. You have two choices to on “woodworking” or 800- fix this problem. First, as you are applying the stain, you can grab A coat of boiled linseed oil is a great way to add depth to your finish. Make 448-0915) or from your local sure it is boiled (not raw) linseed oil. The raw will not dry properly. bookstore. your sandpaper or sander, remove • “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” the spots immediately and con- (#70533; Popular Woodwork- tinue to stain. But if you didn’t To apply, simply brush the oil manner.