Finishing Formulas

Some woodworkers keep a tight lid on their recipes, but we pour it all out.

ome say that finishing can be the stain’s penetration. Because a “ruination of a nicely built these stains depend on soaking Spiece of furniture.” Well, to into the wood to obtain the best build that piece you have to study results, sanding too fine should the different techniques and have be avoided. I hope that’s music access to good plans. Plans and to your ears because most of us procedures are now shared openly complain about sanding. by most woodworkers. But when What’s important is to remove it comes to finishing, some of all imperfections, so while you the best woodworkers slip into don’t need to go past #180 grit, a secret back room and never let you do need to sand effectively to their exact procedures see the gain the upper hand. I use a ran- light of day. dom-orbit sander and begin with How are you supposed to #120 grit, if necessary, and move become a better finisher if you are through the #150 and #180 grits, not shown the techniques and for- followed up by hand sanding with mulas? That’s why we are “blowing #180 grit, making sure to move in the doors off” this little-shared the wood’s grain direction. Also, but highly important aspect of use sandpaper to knock off any woodworking. This article is an sharp edges on the project because all-access pass to the finishing these will show wear first. methods I’ve used for a number of projects from my books and A Homemade Wipe-on magazine articles. Finish for a Clear Topcoat Once the sanding is complete Sand Less Than You Think we can move on. Some projects All finishing starts with the sand- require that you add only a pro- ing, and I think that many of us tective clear topcoat. I have used sand more than necessary. Once the commercial products that you move to a paper that’s finer are available for a wipe-on finish, than #180 grit, you begin to close but I keep returning to my own the wood pores, which will affect mixture. Why? It’s cheap and easy

by Glen D. Huey Comments or questions? Contact Glen at 513-531-2690 ext. 1293 or [email protected]. Photo by Al Parrish

70 Popular Woodworking Month 2007 to make with ingredients from a of the dyes to fading in sunlight. volume low pressure (HVLP) spray the drawer will hinder the sliding hardware store. The alcohol-soluble dye dries system, or spray gun of some type, of the drawer and not allow any My mixture is one-third tur- too fast, leading to the possibil- to apply the dye. HVLP systems naturally occurring patina. Use pentine, one-third spar varnish ity of lapping marks. And the are reasonably priced and will the edge of the dovetails as your (a marine finish) and one-third oil-soluble dyes can cause sev- make your finishing a snap. cut-off point for staining. boiled linseed oil (sometimes eral problems, including choos- You can apply dye with a brush With the stain applied to a abbreviated as BLO). Make sure ing a compatible topcoat as well (in fact you should stain any draw- drawer front, set the first drawer it’s boiled – not raw – linseed oil. as combustion concerns. ers with a brush) but to stain an aside and start staining the next. I mix enough in a batch for about The mixing of the dye is a very entire piece with a brush is more As you set aside the second drawer, 11⁄2 applications to my piece. scientific procedure. Simply mix difficult. If you plan to brush your apply another coat of color to the The turpentine thins the mix- one ounce of powder to four cups finishes I would keep the projects first drawer. This method allows ture, which allows it to seep into of water. Most manufacturers rec- on the small side. the drawer fronts to obtain the wood pores. As the oil/varnish ommend mixing in that ratio, or The staining begins with same depth of color that the case dries, the first coat acts to bridge making the stain twice as strong any drawers in your project. Use will achieve during the process between the pores. Successive by mixing two ounces of stain into a foam brush to apply the stain of spraying. applications then allow the finish the same amount of water. In my in an even coat. Only stain the As for the carcase or any proj- to build. Keep the surface of your experience, there is no reason to drawer fronts. Don’t stain any part ect that has no drawers, spray the work wet for five minutes before mix the stronger solution. of the actual drawer box. Staining dye onto your piece until it drips wiping away any excess. If your tap water is high in and finishing the interior parts of from the project and the piece is After the first coat, you need any one chemical, such as lime, to allow the mixture to thicken use bottled water to reduce any The most effec- before wiping the excess. Look for chances of the chemicals affecting tive way to apply the consistency of honey. Once the stain’s color. But generally, I the stain to a the mixture dries to that consis- use plain tap water. That’s it! drawer front tency, wipe away any excess before Heat the water until it’s sim- without getting it dries completely. Create more mering (you should see small bub- the interior of the mixture as needed for the next bles rising from the bottom of the drawer covered coat. But at this stage add only pan). Place the powder into an is to use a foam brush. equal parts of the varnish and oil, opaque container; I use an empty leave out the turpentine. You don’t orange juice jug to minimize the need to have any soaking into the reaction to sunlight. Then add the grain at this point. water when it reaches tempera- Also, there is no need to ture. Replace the lid tightly and sand the surface between coats shake the mixture. Do this care- provided you have wiped all the fully. Pay attention to the lid. I’ve excess off your work. The beauty had one loosen as I began to shake of this oil/varnish blend is that if – not a pretty sight. Some instruc- you missed wiping an area, you just tions say it’s necessary to strain need to go back and sand that spot the stain prior to use, but I’ve not before applying another coat. It is found that to be necessary. a forgiving topcoat. Apply three Won’t the water-based stain coats to your work to build up the raise the wood’s grain when you finish; a fourth coat will enhance apply it? Yes, the grain of your piece the sheen. will raise – so you need to trick the wood into believing that this has Dying to Add Color already happened before you apply If I need to first color the piece, the solution. Use a water-soaked I use Moser’s aniline dye (avail- sponge or cloth to wet the entire able from woodworker.com). Ani- project, then allow it to dry and line dyes are soluble in water, oil lightly sand with #180 grit, knock- or alcohol. I use water-based dye ing down the raised grain. because it’s easy to mix and to In applying the dye my rule is Any case can be stained with a high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) system. clean up. In addition, the water- to saturate the project. This is why Flood the surface when applying stain. Let the stain soak into the wood in soluble dyes are the most resistant I recommend you purchase a high order to get the best results.

popularwoodworking.com 71 totally saturated. You want to see not have any to wipe away, you pooling on the flat surfaces. Once did not saturate the piece! you have given it a good soaking, Now the warning – a fresh, wet let it sit for five minutes and wipe stain looks great. In a few hours, away any excess stain. If you do after the stain has dried com- pletely, you may feel the piece is ruined because of the dull, lacklus- ter appearence. It’s not. My heart Supplies stopped when I first saw this hap- All three of Glen’s books are pen. Worry not – the next coat of available at a discount to finish, be it linseed oil or sealer, members of WoodWorker’s will renew that great look. Book Club (woodworkersbook- Glue stains or spots have a club.com or 386-246-3404), tendency to show up during the from Popular Woodworking Books (fwbookstore.com, click staining. You have two choices to on “woodworking” or 800- fix this problem. First, as you are applying the stain, you can grab A coat of boiled linseed oil is a great way to add depth to your finish. Make 448-0915) or from your local sure it is boiled (not raw) linseed oil. The raw will not dry properly. bookstore. your sandpaper or sander, remove • “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” the spots immediately and con- (#70533; Popular Woodwork- tinue to stain. But if you didn’t To apply, simply brush the oil manner. They are a fire hazard. ing Books) notice the glue problem prior to onto the project and allow it to Using the BLO dictates the • “Building Fine Furniture” the stain drying, don’t try to sand soak for five minutes before wip- next step. Because lacquers do not (#70593; Popular Woodwork- or touch-up the area until you have ing away the excess. The more it adhere well to oil products (unless ing Books) applied a sealer coat over the dye. soaks in, the more of an effect will given weeks to cure completely) it • “Glen Huey’s Illustrated Guide Trying to stain before the sealer be seen after you have the finish is necessary to seal the piece with to Building Period Furniture” will result in a large halo around complete. Allow the oil to dry at something that will. Shellac is the (#70722; Popular Woodwork- the trouble spot because the sur- least 24 to 36 hours. answer in my shop. ing Books) rounding area will also stain. If you don’t apply the BLO In reading the various recipes Woodworker’s Supply With the sealer applied you there is no adverse reaction or given for the finishes of the book 800-645-9292 or can sand the problem spot, then negative look to the piece, so it is projects in “I Do It My Way” (page woodworker.com stain again to bring the area to a your choice. Make sure that you 74), you’ll notice that shellac is • Moser’s Aniline Dye matching color. The sealer pre- dispose of all oily rags in a proper used for a sealer coat and/or for Woodcraft Supply vents any staining of the area sur- 800-535-4482 or rounding that which was sanded woodcraft.com down to the bare wood. • Behlen Wool-Lube Allow the newly stained piece Blonde shellac, garnet shellac to dry thoroughly, then lightly Mohawk Finishing Products hand sand using #400-grit paper 800-545-0047 or to knock down any raised grain mohawk-finishing.com that didn’t get the hint in the wet- • glaze ting process. This is a step that can Sherwin-Williams present a problem. If you sand too 800-524-5979 or much you will sand through the sherwin-williams.com stain. So don’t be aggressive. • Sherwin-Williams lacquer and lacquer sanding sealer Give Your Finish Depth Olde Century Colors What’s next after the stain? That 800-222-3092 or depends on the hardwood selected oldecenturycolors.com for the project. If you are build- • Olde Century Colors paints ing with a figured hardwood you Rockler should add a coat of boiled linseed 800-279-4441 or rockler.com oil. This will soak into the figured Whether you are using it as a sealing coat or a topcoat, shellac is best when • Briwax grain and reflect the light, which sprayed. The resulting surface will be smooth and make sanding for addi- adds depth to the piece. tional coats of finish much easier to complete.

72 Popular Woodworking April 2007 a topcoat finish depending on use #0000 steel wool and Behlen’s the finish formula. In either case Wool-Lube to rub out the piece. you apply the shellac in the same Mix the Wool-Lube with water to manner. thin it a bit and rub the piece with Spray the shellac mixed to the steel wool dipped in the lube. a 11⁄2# cut. As a sealing coat, a A lot of elbow grease is needed single coat of shellac is all that’s for this method and sometimes needed. Sand the dried shellac getting into the small crevices with a sanding pad for any flat sur- and around mouldings is a task, faces and an abrasive pad for any but the results will be an antiqued mouldings. Using a sanding pad hand-rubbed appearance. reduces finger-friction heat so the If you’re hoping for a way to finish doesn’t gum up in the pad; reduce that sheen without the the results are great. time and effort of hand rubbing An old look for paint begins with a small amount of sawdust in the paint and If you didn’t add a coat of boiled – look to dull-rubbed effect lac- the mixture applied to the project. Work in small areas to keep the process linseed oil you have a choice to quer. One coat over the sanded from getting away from you as it dries. make about the sealer. You can use shellac and the result is a hand- shellac, as we have discussed, or rubbed sheen without all the extra another option is lacquer sanding hand work. sealer, which is also sprayed over If you are finishing the proj- the stained piece. ect with a lacquer topcoat, apply The sanding sealer builds a three or four coats over the sealer, nice coating that powders well allowing each coat to dry before as you sand and leaves a smooth moving forward. surface for your topcoats. For most furniture, Sherwin- Sand the sealer just as you Williams Dull-rubbed Effect would the shellac; then you’re lacquer is the best choice (few ready for the topcoat. Either Sherwin-Williams retailers carry Use a wet cloth to wipe away paint in areas as the paint begins to dry. Try to method of sealing will work fine, it, but they can order it for you). best simulate wear areas based on antique originals. but don’t use the lacquer product For tabletops and other pieces that if you ultimately plan to finish the will see heavy use I would choose a piece with shellac. pre-catalyzed lacquer. The appli- cation of each is the same. How About a Topcoat? The spraying of lacquer is In order to obtain an antique straightforward – an HVLP sys- appearance for your furniture there tem is highly recommended. Pay are two choices when selecting a attention to the application and topcoat. Either finish the project keep any runs or sags out of the with shellac or apply a few coats picture as these will need to be of lacquer. removed after the surface is com- If you are completing the proj- pletely dry. ect with shellac you should spray two coats over the sealer coat of Or There’s Paint shellac, allowing each to dry com- To apply an antique paint finish pletely, before sanding. Next, add to pieces such as the New York/ an additional two coats of shellac. Canadian Stepback cupboard pic- If you are overzealous, which is easy to do, and clear too much paint from the A total of four topcoats will have tured on page 77, the first step is piece, simply go back and add additional paint to help bring the look back to what you want. the proper build. to go through the staining process Shellac has quite a sheen as described above. On top of the when applied to a project. You stain add two coats of shellac. I Use an Olde Century Colors original container, and add a small need to reduce the sheen for a have tried a single coat without (oldecenturycolors.com) or an amount of fine sawdust to the liq- more antique appearance and to good results. Sand the shellac acrylic latex paint for this pro- uid. This may seem odd but there inhibit showing any slight imper- thoroughly before beginning to cess. Pour paint into a can. You’ll is a method to this madness. As fections in your finish. To do this paint your surfaces. want to separate some from the you spread the paint onto your

popularwoodworking.com 73 I Do It My Way; You can Too surface, the granules will be dis- tioned correctly, but I use a prod- I was never taught the process of finishing my furniture projects. My tributed across the piece. uct made especially for glazing: father and I worked through the mysteries surrounding this subject When the paint begins to Mohawk’s heavy-bodied glazing using a trial-and-error approach. I think the outcome of those trials, dry – timing this requires close stain (Mohawk-finishing.com) pictured on selections taken from my books, shows I must be doing something right – and I hope you agree. Follow the recipes and you attention – take a wet cloth and Sand the shellac sealer smooth too can stand back and look proudly at the results. rub the painted areas. The small with #320 grit. Remember: Lac- pieces of dust, as they are rolled quer and oil don’t play well and removed, will reveal the together so use shellac, and place stained surface below. Continue the drawers, if there are any, into to wipe away paint only in the the case. Spray a coat of glaze onto areas where wear would typically the surface. be displayed. As the glaze dries it will turn Don’t go overboard when whitish in color or flash (turn simulating wear. A little can go a from wet to dry in sheen). At long way. And if you remove more that time you need to wipe away paint than you want, simply add the majority of the glaze, leaving paint back onto the surface. This heavy areas in recesses, corners or time don’t use the sawdust. With around mouldings. Don’t worry practice you can develop a talent that you’re wiping away too much. and eye to achieve what appears The glaze will get into the shellac to be an old painted finish. and make those tonal changes. When the surface is dry, after 24 Glaze for Age to 36 hours, apply another coat of Glaze is used to simulate years of shellac to lock in the glaze. age and to even the tonal differ- These processes, when applied ences in your work. The only dif- in proper order, can move you to ference between stain and glaze the next level in finishing your is that the glaze is sandwiched masterpieces. Give them a try and between two layers of finish you’ll not look back to those old whereas stain is applied directly methods any more. And be sure to to the raw wood. Any oil-based share your experiences with your stain can become a glaze if posi- fellow woodworkers. PW Photo by Tim GrondinTim by Photo Massachusetts High Chest From “Glen Huey’s Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture” Mahogany hardwood

1 ■ Spray a coat of Moser’s Dark Antique Sheraton aniline dye.

2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.

3 ■ Spray one coat of blonde shellac.

4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding sponge.

5 ■ Apply a heavy-bodied glaze – Mohawk Van Dyke Brown.

6 ■ Spray three coats of blonde shellac. A heavy-bodied glaze is the best choice to add years of time to your project. 7 ■ Rub out with #0000 steel wool and Behlen Wool-Lube. Any oil-based stain will work, but remember that it needs to be sandwiched between two layers of film finish to be called a glaze. 8 ■ Apply a coat of paste wax.

74 Popular Woodworking April 2007 Shaker Small Chest of Drawers From “Building Fine Furniture” Cherry hardwood

1 ■ Spray a coat of Moser’s Dark Wine Cherry aniline dye.

2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/ dry sandpaper.

3 ■ Spray one coat of Sherwin- Williams Lacquer Sanding Sealer (T60F64).

4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sand- ing sponge.

5 ■ Spray three coats of Sherwin-Williams Dull- rubbed Effect Lacquer (T70F63). Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo

Chippendale Entertainment Center From “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” Flame or curly birch hardwood

■

Photo by Tim GrondinTim by Photo 1 Spray a coat of Moser’s Golden Amber Maple ani- Pennsylvania line dye.

Tall Case Clock 2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/ From “Glen Huey’s Illustrated Guide dry sandpaper. to Building Period Furniture” 3 ■ Spray one coat of Sherwin- Mahogany hardwood Williams Lacquer Sanding Sealer (T60F64). 1 ■ Spray a coat of Moser’s Dark Wine Cherry aniline dye. 4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sand- ing sponge. 2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. 5 ■ Spray three coats of Sherwin-Williams Dull- 3 ■ Spray one coat of blonde shellac. rubbed Effect Lacquer 4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding (T70F63). sponge.

5 ■ Spray three coats of Sherwin- Williams Dull-rubbed Effect Lacquer (T70F63).

finishing ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ tip ■ Make it a practice, when spraying multiple coats of finish, to change the spray pattern of the nozzle with each coat – one with the fan hori- zontal, then one vertical. This method eliminates lapping lines. Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo

popularwoodworking.com 75 Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo ParrishAl by Photo Slant-lid Desk on Frame Shaker Sewing Desk From “Building Fine Furniture” From “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” Tiger maple hardwood Tiger maple hardwood

1 ■ Spray a coat of Moser’s Golden Amber Maple aniline dye. 1 ■ Spray a coat of Moser’s Golden Amber Maple aniline dye.

2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. 2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.

3 ■ Apply a soaking coat of boiled linseed oil. 3 ■ Apply a soaking coat of boiled linseed oil.

4 ■ Rub with a maroon non-woven abrasive pad. 4 ■ Rub with a maroon non-woven abrasive pad.

5 ■ Spray four coats of blonde shellac. 5 ■ Spray one coat of blonde shellac.

6 ■ Rub-out with #0000 steel wool and Behlen Wool-Lube. 6 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding sponge.

7 ■ Apply a coat of paste wax. 7 ■ Spray three coats of Sherwin-Williams Dull-rubbed Effect Lacquer (T70F63).

Seymour Sideboard From “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” Mahogany, tiger maple and walnut hardwoods

1 ■ Brush on four coats of oil/varnish mixture.

2 ■ Apply a coat of paste wax.

finishing ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ tips ■ Remove small sags or runs in your shellac using a single-edge razor blade. Use the blade as you would a small scraper.

■ Finishing the drawer box (with the exception of the front) will cause problems with operation. Also, future generations will not be able to see any natural patina.

■ Light or clear waxes will effectively remove dark waxes. Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo

76 Popular Woodworking April 2007 New York/Canadian Stepback Cupboard From “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime” Painted pine

1 ■ Stain with Moser’s Golden Amber Maple aniline dye.

2 ■ Sand with #400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.

3 ■ Spray two coats of blonde shellac.

4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding sponge.

5 ■ Apply a coat of acrylic latex paint with a little sawdust added. I used Olde Century Colors in Yankee Blue.

6 ■ Wipe paint to simulate wear.

7 ■ Add a coat of dark brown Briwax.

finishing ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ tips ■ Raw linseed oil will not dry properly. Make sure to use the boiled product.

■ The cut in shellac is the amount of shellac flakes, in weight, that is dissolved into a gallon of denatured alcohol.

■ If you elect to brush the shellac, use a good brush. The better the brush, the better the results. Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo

Massachusetts Blockfront Chest From “Glen Huey’s Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture” Cherry hardwood

1 ■ Stain with Moser’s Dark Wine Cherry aniline dye.

2 ■ Sand with #400-grit sandpaper.

3 ■ Spray one coat of blonde shellac.

4 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding

Photo by Al ParrishAl by Photo sponge. 18th-century Hanging Cupboard 5 ■ Apply a heavy-bodied glaze – Mohawk’s Van Dyke Brown. From “Building Fine Furniture” Walnut hardwood 6 ■ Spray two coats of blonde shellac. 1 ■ Spray four coats of garnet shellac, lightly sanded 7 ■ Sand with a 3M fine sanding between each coat. sponge. 2 ■ Rub out with #0000 steel wool and Behlen Wool- 8 ■ Spray three coats of Sherwin- Lube. Williams Dull-rubbed Effect

■ 3 Apply a coat of paste wax. Lacquer (T70F63). pw GrondinTim by Photo

popularwoodworking.com 77