Monday onwards although this did not Alpine Meet deter several parties having excellent Ailefroide, mountaineering and rock climbing days as the reports will reveal. Dauphine We had as guests ofthe Club, brought July / August 1996 by Tim Bateman, Jennie AlIen of the Rugby MC and Pete Hardy of the Hinchley MC. They were assets to Compiled by John Devenport from the party both on the mountain and contributions supplied by members socially back in camp. It is only when and guests recounting their you are sharing a rope with much experiences on the meet. younger people, on what for the writer are serious mountains do you realise that Anno Domini is catching up with The President's Overview you. by Derek Bush As a first visit to an Alps meet I was somewhat apprehensive. Would I The Club last visited Ailefroide in cope in the huts and the early starts? 1991. In John Devenports excellent 3.30 am was never my best time of introduction to that meet report he day, never mind thinking about described in detail the location, the donning plastic boots, gaiters, camp site, the maps and guide books climbing harness, head torches and all required and even the weather! I have the other paraphernalia of the no intention of plagiarising John's 'modem' climber. Did I cope? You report and will merely remind readers had better ask my companions but I that Ailefroide lies at the head of the can only say my holiday would have Gyronde {Vallouise} Valley at a been far more traumatic and therefore height of 1500m. much less enjoyable without the help, For some of us towing caravans, the assistance and cajoling of all my most exciting, perhaps I should say companions young and old alike. terrifying part of the whole holiday I thank them sincerely. was the ascent {and decent} by road from L'Argentiere, This is ignoring the one way tunnel systems which still seem to be operating on the east side Maps and guide books ofthe Lautaret pass! It is hoped that The most useful map was Cartes IGN next years Alps meet is more caravan 3436ET ' and Pelvoux' which friendly. Older members will scoff covered the whole of the Pare and say the Club is becoming too soft. National des Ecrins at a scale of I am sure there is scope for an article, 1:25,000. Walking and ski-touring humorous or otherwise, in a routes, together with the refuges were subsequent bulletin. clearly marked. The only other variation to the 1991 The Alpine Club Guide 'Ecrins Massif account was of course the weather. - Selected Climbs', though not giving 1991 seemed to be better. The first all of the routes, was more than week or our 1996 meet was excellent adequate for the mountaineering needs but mixed weather arrived the second during the meet.

The YRC Bulletin 61 Summer 1997 The attendees but Mark and Alister kept a look out for any improvements in the weather. The following members and guests After a slight improvement in sampled the delights ofthis part ofthe conditions we departed from the hut French Alps for all or part ofthe meet: at approximately six 0 clock. Jennie Allen The peak provided a varied route, Dennis Annstrong initially over moraine leading to a Joan Annstrong snowy col. The col enabled me to put TimBateman on my strap-on crampons, for the first DerekBush time, in extremely windy conditions ­ John Devenport it was almost inevitable that they Marcia Godden would come off on descent. The Mike Godden second part ofthe ascent was in cloud, Pete Hardy over a forty five degree snow slope. Katrina Holt This was an excellent experience, MarkPryor although traffic on the slope was bad, Alister Renton from those people who had begun an Q~llton early descent. At the second col we Neil Renton removed our rucksacks for a fifty Arthur Salmon metre rock climb, which Alister Graham Salmon + Sally impressively led. The final part of the David Smith peak was a scramble over rocky Elspeth Smith terrain before a second snow slope Frank Wilkinson leading to the summit cairn. The view from the 3663m peak was poor but the pleasure of reaching the top subdued this disappointment. Montagne des Agneaux The descent was, for me, surprisingly rapid - although the clear in the by Neil Renton weather was untimely - giving a view This mountain was to be the first peak of the exposed abseil. Arrival back at ofthe Alpine Meet and my first major the hut saw better weather and snow peak. The first Sunday of the enabled a dry walk down to the car meet trip saw the departure ofAlister, park - where David and myself saw a Alex and Mark, Jenny, Tim and Pete, marmot which, according to David, and finally David, Derek and myself: had been tamed at the circus! The for the hut. The two mountain was a thoroughly enjoyable hour walk to the hut gave us all day out that gave me the desire to fabulous views ofMount. Pelvoux and have a go at the Barre des Ecrins. Ailefroide Upon arrival at the hut we booked in, A bivouac in the Ecrins finding the small self catering room. Dinner lived up to the usual standard ­ by Pete Hardy all appreciating David's culinary It was hard work ascending the expertise. Everybody rose at four to winding path from Pre De Madame find horrendous weather conditions ­ Carle toward the Glacier Blanc. Each the majority headed off back to bed, ofus was hampered by the 401b. pack

Tuc YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 1997 we shouldered under the hot afternoon What a lucky stroke! We were clearly sun. Every step an agony, the Refuge not the first to spot the sites potential. Du Glacier Blanc seemed to take an There were already stone shelters eternity to reach. We had travelled this erected for the siting of two bivi bags way before, yet we each still revelled (Alister and I) and there was ample in the fantastic views afforded us; room for Jennie and Tim to erect the its summit partly tent they had carried up between them. obscured by cloud with the Glacier des This was a site made in heaven; flat Violettes draped over its northern (relatively), free of stone fall or flank; L' Ailefroide massif clearly avalanche danger, close to a supply of visible showing its East summit, scene clean snow (for drinks) and even with of our earlier adventures closest to us. a supply ofwood. (There were about a Ifhard labour was the price to pay for dozen small planks of wood scattered all ofthis, then it was surely worth it. over the platform, some partly buried in snow). Quickly realising the We stopped off at the refuge and each potential, and ignoring the rule about of us paid 16 Francs for a can of cold open fires, we built a small fire over pop and we sat in the sun watching which to cook. Choughs gliding in the mountain air for a while. We resumed our journey; The fire was fantastic. We melted the upwards over the moraine heaps above snow I had dug from deep in the snow the refuge at first, and then onto the field and prepared drinks. We cooked glacier itself This late in the season the usual dehydrated meal (rice and there was no problem with deep layers curry or something similar) and used of snow hiding crevasses, and so we rocks warmed by the fireside to fend did not rope up. We travell..cd along off the night chill. We were in great the northern edge of the glacier, spirits, taking photographs aplenty. We avoiding impressively contorted were amazed at 9pm to see two parties crevasses as we did so. It was descending the north face ofthe Barre approaching 7pm by the time we des ECl1nS. The first was quite fast, but reached the point at which Mark, the second was desperately slow. We Derek and Neil would depart for the watched them descend as far as the col Refuge Des Ecrins. By now the des ECl1nS, but failing light caused us Glacier was mostly in shadow as the to lose sight. We could only assume sun dropped low behind the they had bivouacked high on the surrounding peaks. glacier or that they were descending to We carried on along the glacier for a la Berarde (rather them than us!). short distance, and could already see It was close to 10pm by the time we one party bivouacking on the ice turned in; I slept in my thermals, my ahead. Tim suggested we did likewise, fleece, my four season bag and a but I said we might be wiser Goretex bivi bag. The muffled sound investigating the rock spur above us. I of running water kept me awake for a let Tim go ahead of me - his energy while, the I imagination running wild, seemed boundless even now - whilst but after about an hour I managed to Jennie and Alister waited on the ice get to sleep. below. I was almost up with Tim when 3.30 am next morning and I was he shouted his enthusiastic approval to awake to my alarm. I donned my the rest ofus. contact lens, grateful that I did not drop it onto my bivi bag which was

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 1997 covered in a thick layer of frost. I I slept very well that night after sprang promptly out of 'bed'. The spending a little while looking at the valley below was full of cloud but at stars and spotting the passing 3,300m we were cloud free. Ten satellites. It was soon morning and the minutes later as Tiro. emerged from his weather was initiallygood. We walked tent we were enshrouded in the cloud down to the path to meet the others from the valley. Another ten minutes from the hut. and it had receded again - a reminder We made good progress up the path of how quickly things can change in but there was a large number of the mountains. parties on it. The whole team was It took about an hour to melt snow for doing fine - Neil and Mark had not drinks, to eat a fiugal breakfast and to before scaled a 4000m peak but they get roped up. As we descended had no problems, After a while cloud towards the glacier Blanc the Barre started to form over the summit and it des Ecrins was free ofcloud and hopes was not long until we could see no were high. further than the end of our noses!!! The weather gradually got worse and it started to snow!! We finally anived at the col where you turn left for the real summit and right for the dome. Dome des Ecrins We at first turned left but soon turned by Mister Renton back as the route was very unclear and the weather was getting worse. We After successfully completing decided it was unwise to travel much Montagne des Agneaux and Ailefroide higher and as such we visited the we decided that we were ready to go dome and descended as quickly as for the big one. Ecrins is the largest possible. peak in the area and as such it had to be done. Once back down onto the glacier Neil, Derek and Mark moved off down The party included Neil, Mark, Jennie, while I headed back to the bivi site to Tim, Pete , Derek and myself We collect my gear. It was still snowing backtracked up the path to the Glacier and moral was quite low! ! Blanc hut passing the large number of tourists who were giving our massive I moved of down the glacier and rucksacks very funny looks - due to bumped into Tim, Jennie and Pete so I the plan of bivi-ing I was carrying dulywaited for them as I did not fancy about 17.5 kg. walking down by myself! ! Once at the hut the President treated Quite quickly the snow turned to rain. the team to a well earned can ofcoke. Before we knew it we were at the I will not tell you how much the drinks Glacier Blanc. From then on the path cost!!! Once refreshed we headed on was never ending! ! what was now the glacier. The going The trip was an excellent experience was quite easy but the size ofthe pack and not to be missed. It was a shame made it difficult. Once near the hut the to have missed the real top but it will party split in two. The more wealthy be there another year. members stayed in the hut, having all meals provided, while the rest of us had a rather nice bivi.

The YRC Bulletin 64 Summer 1997 From the col, a rocky ridge led A First Alpine Ascent towards the summit in just a few by Katrina Bolt & minutes, where we took a well deselved rest amongst the magnificent John Devenport scenery. Highlight of the panorama It was all rather different to the rolling was the north face of the Barre des countryside of the North Downs in Ecrins, looking absolutely pristine at deepest Kent and even higher than the the head of the valley, covered in a Lakeland Peaks. It was Katrina's first generous coat of new snow, which attempt to climb in the Alps, but we was captured on film, ofcourse. hoped that during the course of our We did not hang around too long, as stay in Ailefroide we'd make an ascent cloud was now starting to swirl ofone ofthe surrounding peaks. around us, and it looked most After a few 'warm up' walks during impressive as it boiled up from the the first few days, we took the plunge south side ofthe Barre des Ecrins. and set off after lunch for the Glacier It was a straightforward descent back Bland Hut. A steady plod brought us to the hut, where we stopped briefly to the glacier snout from where the to rest and eat, then back down to the hut seemed tantalisingly close, campsite, where Katrina partook of although in reality there was still some another fine YRC 'tradition' as way to go. A very heavy shower in Elspeth very kindly greeted us with a the late afternoon kept the hordes bottle ofcold beer each, to celebrate a away, so the hut was surprisingly successful first alpine ascent! quiet, and after a filling meal we retired to the luxury ofa whole row of bunks to ourselves. However, I still East Summit of didn't sleep! L'Ailfroide (3847m) Our intended peak was the Pie de Glacier d'Arsine {3368m}, so we by David Smith were not woken by the hut guardian This being my third visit to the area it­ until 5 am. From the hut, we made becomes increasingly difficult to add our way up the broken ground to the another major peak when others have glacier, where we roped up, strapped their eyes on different ascents. My on crampons and picked up the ice luck was in when a group of us axe, all of which were new decided on L'Ailefroide. The experiences for Katrina. mountain is a particularly complicated Progress along the side of the glacier massif and I am not sure which ofthe was steady, before we cut up to the three summits we were aiming for, but right, initially through rocks, then up a in the end fate took us to the top of broad cwm towards our mountain. the east summit. We made slow but steady progress It is quite a pleasant walk to the new winding our way around short bands Sele hut, about a mile nearer then the of rock, to keep to the snow slopes old one, from our camp site through almost the whole way to the col, with beautifully wooded country following frequent stops to catch our breath in the liver Celise Niere for about seven the rarefied atmosphere. miles. Then the path divided, a zig­ zag track heads offnorthwards to the

The YRC Bulletin 65 Summer 1997 Pelvoux hut, whereas our track skirts members were now well out of sight the Coste de Sialouze moraines to but as soon as we were off the snow what appears to be an impregnable we found then basking in the sunshine. wall 300m high. A spectacular path We had little difficulty retracing our picked its way up the wall with steps as it was well cairned. Back at exposure at places demanding extreme the steep gully we had no problem in care. At some points the path is crossing it without rope as all the hold protected by wire cable covered with seemed to be in our favour in this green plastic garden hose. direction. Over the ridge the final track to the There were threatening clouds in the Refuge Sele soon appeared at 2511m, sky, the younger members having the most modem hut in the Massif It escorted Derek and lover the difficult had good facilities for self cookers bits were very soon out of sight. We unlike the pathetic situation at the took our time, at one point misleading Glacier Bland hut. The temperature in information painted on a rock wall the dortoir was not oppressive, so for caused us some unnecessary ascent. once we all had a reasonable nights The rain came before we reached the sleep. hut where we rejoined our friends, After a brief rest we set off down the All too soon it was 4 am and time to steep wall track to regain the valley. depart, we were the last away and confused by other climbers head We were certainly glad of the torches we followed the wrong lights. protection of the rope on the wet After a map check we changed for the slippery rock. Before we reached the alternative routs. The track took to a valley the rain stopped for the last gap between the snow and a rock wall stage of the expedition. It was a first where a overhang and our rucksacks class climb with much variety in the made the transfer awkward. Good terrain and in the make-up ofthe team rock scrambling followed until we which did much for the enjoyment of came .to a open gully dropping the trip. hundreds of feet steeply below us. It Team: Jenny Allen, Derek Bush, Tim was a potentially dangerous place and Bateman, Pete Hardy, Mark Pryor, a fixed rope was used. Alister Renton and David Smith. The route followed a descending traverse to rocky couloir which is climbed on the lift until a series of Pelvoux South Face snow fields in gained. Relatively steep snow in good condition lead us to the by Mark Pryor 3847m Orientale summit where we With just a few days of the Alpine were lucky to have excellent views Meet left, Tim Bateman and I decided down the . The president to round off an excellent fortnight and the writer were the last to gain the with an ascent of Mont Pelvoux, via summit and had the mountain and its its South Face, pioneered in 1828 by magnificent views to ourselves until AADurand and party. the mist took away the vista. The peak is one of the most majestic The snow condition had deteriorated in the range, at 3946 it is also one of with snow balling up dangerously the highest. We had both been under our crampons. The younger impressed by the sight ofits awesome

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1997 north face, which dominated the With these treacherous snow slopes skyline on previous trips to the Glacier out of the way, we made good Blanc and Ecrins huts. progress, scrambling up greasy, wet rock to the edge of the Sialouze In his book 'Outline sketches in the glacier. Here, we decided to rope up High Alps of Dauphine' T.G.Bonney as we looked at the next part of the described the locals: "The people in route. You have a choice at this point; many parts are stunted, cowardly and either climb the Rochers Rouge, a feeble, and appear to be stupid and great mass of rock which takes you almost cretins". With this in mind, we right up to the Pelvoux Glacier, or decided not to stay in the Pelvoux hut, climb the Coolidge couloir, also to the but to bivouac on a large hog's back Pelvoux Glacier, where the routes of scree about twenty minutes' walk rejoin. Being British, we chose the further on. This also gave us the couloir, first climbed by chance to see where the route went W.A.B.Coolidge with the famous for the following morning. After a Christian Almer father and son quick meal of soup and bread, we combination as guides. Halfway up the were in our bags, staring up at the couloir, I wasn't feeling so patriotic. cloud filled sky. "I want to see the In fact, as I stood bent over my axe stars when I wake up" said Tim, gasping for breath, I was thinking hopefully. We pondered this remark in where Mr Coolidge could shove his our own separate ways as the first stupid couloir. However, we were spots ofrain hit our bivi bags. soon on the top, and it was only short In the morning the weather had not walk along the ridge to Pointe improved, a light drizzle joined us for Puiseux, the summit ofMont Pelvoux. breakfast, and great swathes of mist The weather, meanwhile, had obscured the route ahead. In the hut improved all the way up the mountain. below, nothing stirred, As we drank It had long since stopped raining and our tea, we decided to make an patches of blue had even appeared in attempt on the peak anyway. There the sky. But when we reached the was no way we were going down to summit, it was in cloud. We agreed the campsite without at least giving it that this must be the top, but both of a try, after spending such a wretched us had nagging doubts as we began night out in the open! the descent. Suddenly, the clouds The first part of the route went along parted and all around was clear, so we the left bank ofthe Clot de l' Homme hurried back to the top, just to be glacier, across snow slopes which had sure. There was no need for concern, failed to freeze overnight. her the however, and soon the cameras were difference in our relative experience out for heroic summit poses. showed. Tim striding purposefully The descent was largely uneventful, ahead, a blend of confidence and stopping once to coil the rope, and ability, me blundering along with all of again at the hut to buy a mink. We the attributes of the 19th century were hoping to be greeted with French peasantry mentioned earlier. It fanfares and rapturous applause on wasn't long before I slipped clumsily arrival at the campsite, but the place on the snow and fell. To my surprise I was deserted. Elspeth was there braked well with my axe, text book though, and she rewarded our efforts style, and thus served to boost my with cold bottled beer. confidence for the rest ofthe route.

The YRC Bulletin 67 Summer 1997