The ANZAC Experience in Malta

Home , Hamrun, Mtarfa, Santa Venera

their personal battles are buried. The ANZAC Tours may be followed in one of two ways: circu- larly, ending where they begin, or in a linear fash- experience in Malta ion. The walking man (_) and car (%) pictograms denote travel directions on foot or by The ANZAC experience in Malta is a set of four car, whilst the reading man (R) indicates infor- self-guided tours to the principal sites associated mation about the locale and provides historical with the personnel of the Australian and New insights. A map is recommended for car tours, Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) during, mainly, the otherwise one is not necessary. First World War. The tours also highlight points of interest on the These tours will show you where wounded An- islands – places where recovering servicemen zacs where hospitalised, convalesced, were enter- and off duty personnel may have visited, and so tained, and the locations where those who lost can you.

Tour 4 - Departure building was Modern Maltese the Istituto grammar dictates Santa Venera, Balzan, Ta’ Tecnico Vin- that two consecu- Qali, Mtarfa, Ghajn Tuffieha, cenzo Bugeia, tive vowels be sep- Mellieha Bay and Marfa Point built in 1912 to arated by the train orphaned letter j. In 1903 Mode: Linear, by car children in in- what became Ham- Start: Bugeja Institute at 469 dustrial crafts. run Hospital was Triq Il-Kbira San Guzepp, Santa “Though the Istituto Vin- Venera splendidly built cenzo Bugeia, Distance: 31.2kms and tiled today it is the Duration: approx 3hrs, exclud- throughout, Bugeja Institute. ing palace garden and museum much engineer As always, there visits work was nec- are exceptions to essary, as the rule. The starting point is the Bugeja there were few Moreover, before Institute on Triq Il-Kbira San sanitary con- English became an Guzepp (35°53’22”N, veniences official language 14°28’34”E). Parking in this owing to its in Malta, Italian area may prove somewhat normal use”, was the country’s tricky; then again it is not really Mirabelli Terence writes Dr second language. necessary to stop here as you Hamrun was a first class hospital on a “hot George Bruce can only see the façade of the and dusty car track” two miles from Floriana in his history of military hospitals in Malta1. “Baths, sinks, ward annexes, a hot water sys- former Hamrun Hospital. tem, a kitchen with lift to din- 1 Bugeja Institute R 2.76kms With the need for hospital ing-room, and electric lighting 2 San Anton Palace beds ever increasing by mid- had hastily to be provided. 5.45kms spring of 1915, the authorities Eventually, when all the work 3 Malta Aviation Museum looked at suitable buildings that was complete, a first class hos- 760m could be requisitioned and con- pital, though small, was pro- 4 Imtarfa Military Cemetery verted into hospitals. One such duced”. 2.12kms

5 Kullegg San Nikola 10.8kms 6 Ghajn Tuffieha 1.81kms 7 Church of St Joseph, Manikata 5.02kms 8 Mellieha Bay 2.47kms See page 2 for map of northern area 9 Marfa Point Background map - Apple Inc map - Apple Background

The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 1 Renamed Hamrun Hospital, it June – “every bed being filled in other 11 beds were added. was equipped with 106 beds and less than an hour”, reports Dr The Rev Albert MacKinnon2 received its first patients on 10 Bruce. A short while later an- was also passionate about Ham- run Hospital. He writes that it was “two miles farther out” from Floriana, on a “hot dusty car track” yet “well worth the annoyance of getting there. It must be a delight to a doctor’s heart. “It recalls to mind the story of a bride”, writes the Rev MacK- innon. “She was being congratu- lated by her friends, and they all used the same adjective about her husband calling him a model man. In her curiosity to learn the exact meaning of the word she consulted a dictionary and discovered that model was a ‘small imitation of the real ar- ticle’. “Hamrun is small, but a model. Of course, it is quite new, and, therefore, might be expected to have all the latest improve- ments. It exhales an atmosphere of up-to-dateness. Here all eye cases are being sent”. Clearly, not all eye cases were brought here. One patient was Captain Clement Atlee of the 6th South Lancashire Regiment, during 1 Bugeja Institute the Second World War he was 2.76kms Winston Churchill’s deputy and 2 San Anton Palace from 1945 to 1951 was prime 5.45kms minister of the United Kingdom. 3 Malta Aviation Museum 760m In August 1915 he had collapsed 4 Imtarfa Military Cemetery from dysentery on the beach at 2.12kms Suvla Bay, where he had landed 5 Kullegg San Nikola with his unit. He was evacuated 10.8kms unconscious to the hospital ship 6 Ghajn Tuffieha Devanah, which was bound for 1.81kms England. However, he recovered 7 Church of St Joseph, at sea and “protesting at being Manikata taken away, insisted on being 5.02kms landed at Malta”. Atlee was 8 Mellieha Bay brought to Hamrun Hospital 2.47kms 9 Marfa Point and discharged in November, he then returned to Suvla “and was the last but one to leave at the final evacuation on 20 De- cember”3. At first Hamrun Hospital came

See page 1 for map of southern area Background map - Apple Inc map - Apple Background

The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 2 under the aegis of the British Red Cross Society, which paid for its maintenance “and provided drugs and dressings”. The Number 1 Mediterranean Nurs- ing Unit, a voluntary body of ladies, provided nurses whilst an officer of the Royal Army Medical Corps (RAMC) was in charge. “The hospital was a success from the very beginning and, later in November 1915, was entirely converted into an officers’ hospital with 80 beds, for which it was eminently suitable”, Dr Bruce reports. In the same month Hamrun came entirely under the military authorities.

It was closed on 5 July 1917. Mirabelli Terence Today the Istituto Tecnico Vin- As a rest home for nurses, San Anton Palace must have been popular with all ranks of cenzo Bugeia houses several servicemen; and moonlight trysts a regular occurrence government departments that deal with social welfare. Meanwhile, the arches you see dens, the only way to reach the servicemen needed a rest home, opposite the former Hamrun palace. and San Anton Palace was con- Hospital are the Wignacourt R In early 1916, the palace that verted into one. In January Aqueduct. Built between 1610 had once been the seat of 1916 it became a rest home for and 1614 it carried drinking Malta’s National Assembly, be- 60 nurses from the military water from springs in Rabat came a rest home. hospitals and from the Royal and Dingli to Valletta. More The French knight Antoine de Naval Hospital Bighi. “It pro- than 15 kilometres long, the Paule built San Anton as a hunt- vided the over worked nurses aqueduct ran mostly under- ing lodge, albeit a rather large with a well deserved and much ground. Inaugurated on 21 one, before becoming Grand needed respite”. April 1615, it remained in use Master of the Order of St John “The restful atmosphere of San until the early 20th Century. It in 1623. He named it Sainte An- Anton was appreciated by the is named after Alof de Wigna- toine in honour of his patron nursing staff, many of whom court, the Grand Master of the saint, Anthony of Padua. were thoroughly run down, Order of St John who financed The lodge was large and could after the exhausting work of the its building. accommodate guests plus a size- past seven or eight months”, re- % The next stop is San Anton able domestic retinue that in- ports Dr Bruce. Palace, official residence of cluded cooks, food tasters, San Anton must have been a Malta’s presidents pantry boys, torch bearers, wig magnet for recovering young (35°53’39”N, 14°26’59”E), just makers, a clock winder, physi- Anzacs, and it is not implausible under three kilometres from cians, as well as a baker to to believe some romancing and the Bugeja Institute. make black bread for de Paule’s kissing and…may have taken Take the second exit at the hunting dogs. place in the more private parts roundabout, at the end of Triq Successive grand masters used of the garden. Il-Kbira San Guzepp, and drive San Anton as a country resi- No doubt these same service- up Triq Notabile. The aqueduct dence, embellishing and enlarg- men must have been disap- is now on your right; along the ing it over time. In the 19th pointed when the home was way you’ll pass the brewery. At Century it became the residence closed on 19 March 1916. the second set of traffic lights, of British governors and in _ Enjoy the garden, and then turn right for Rabat – sign- 1974 the official residence of walk past the palace’s front posted as ‘ir-Rabat’. Malta’s president. door and down the arched corri- And at the next set of traffic The gardens of San Anton, dor to Triq Sant Antnin. Across lights (the Citroen dealer is on open to the public since 1882, the road is the President’s your left), take the slip road on are laid out in a formal manner Kitchen Garden that forms part the right and turn right into and boast a wide variety of ex- of the palace grounds. This gar- Vjal de Paule. You are now in otic plants, shrubs and trees. den continues to serve its origi- Balzan. Park somewhere close At the end of 1915 it was felt nal purpose of providing fresh to the Corinthia Palace Hotel that the nurses caring for the vegetables, fruits and herbs for and head for San Anton Gar- thousands of sick and wounded residents of San Anton Palace. The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 3 cannot take a right but must units operated from here during continue to the roundabout a WWII; additionally, RAAF few hundred metres along – you squadrons provided air support cannot miss it, there’s a statue for the Allied invasion of Italy in of a back-to-back semi-naked 1943. couple. Do a 180-degree and Ta’ Qali airfield, meantime, was turn left at the lights into Vjal l- built before the outbreak of the Istadium Nazzjonali. You are Second World War on the bed of now at Ta’ Qali, Malta’s first an ancient lake, it had four run- civil aerodrome. ways and was used by civil air- About three hundred metres lines. Its customers included

Malta Tourism Authority Tourism Malta along you’ll reach the intersec- Air France and Ala Littoria, the South of Rabat and in the heart of Bus- tion in the photograph below, Italian national airline that op- kett, Malta’s only ‘forest’, stands take the second exit from left erated during the fascist Verdala Castle. (follow the sign for Valletta regime. Built by Grand Master Hugues Glass); eventually you will also When Italy entered the war in Loubenx de Verdalle in 1586 on the see signs for the Aviation Mu- June 1940 obstacles were posi- site of a hunting lodge once owned by seum, follow them. tioned around the airfield to Jean Parisot de Valette, it was embel- prevent airborne landings. And lished over the years by successive on 8 November the airport be- grand masters. came RAF Station Ta’ Qali, later During the French occupation - from anglicised to Ta Kali. As an op- 1798 to 1800 - it was used as a mili- erational station, it was heavily tary prison and then abandoned until bombed during the war. the mid-19th Century, when the One of the oldest Australian British restored it as the official sum- squadrons, Number 3, formed at mer residence of the governors of The Malta Aviation Museum Point Cook, Victoria, on 19 Sep- Malta. Since 1987 it has been the offi- showcases a rebuilt WWII-era tember 1916, flew its Kitty- cial summer residence of Malta’s pres- Spitfire and a Hawker Hurri- hawks from Zuara in Libya to idents. cane; a Douglas DC3 said to Ta’ Qali on 9 July 1943 (its In December 1915, meanwhile, have been used during the ground party had arrived at St Verdala Castle was converted into a Berlin airlift and later by the Paul’s Bay five days earlier). convalescent home for 30 officers. It CIA plus a number of jet fight- This RAAF squadron was in im- was only used for five months and was ers, aircraft engines, uniforms mediate action covering the Al- closed in April 1916. and aviation memorabilia. Re- lied landings in Sicily4. cently inaugurated is a display Number 3 Squadron’s record of to mark the centenary of avia- 25,663 operational flight hours Today, the garden is divided tion in Malta. The museum is and 217 enemy aircraft shot into two – a children’s recre- worth a visit. down made it the highest-scor- ational area that includes a few R Ta’ Qali has nothing to do ing RAAF fighter squadron of animals such as ponies, deer, with the First World War, but a WWII. Today, Number 3 is sta- sheep, an emu and an herb and number of Australians and New tioned at Williamtown, New rose garden. There’s also a Zealanders attached to RAF South Wales, and flies McDon- rather pleasant coffee shop. After some sustenance, the former RAF base of Ta’ Qali is our next stop (35°53’37”N, 14°24’59”E). % Resume your journey towards Rabat. Go back to Triq l- Imdina, that becomes Triq il-Belt Valletta, that later becomes Triq in-Nutar Zarb, that morphs into Triq iz-Zaghfran – it changes names at every hamlet you drive through, but it is the main road to Rabat. On a road map it’s designated the N7. You will eventually see signs for the national stadium and for

the Malta Aviation Museum; Retro Courtesy Bay both will indicate a right turn at A Curtiss P40 Kittihawk of 3 Squadron at Ta’ Qali in July 1943. The unit provided air cover the traffic lights. However, you during the landings in Sicily. This was the highest scoring Australian fighter squadron of WWII The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 4 Number 78 Wing performed), a crafts village makes the headlines in housed in the former military 1952. (Centre) the buildings, a motocross track, a ‘obligatory’ group children’s petting zoo, a vine- photo in front of Wing yard and winery, a pet sanctu- HQ, a pair of linked ary (on the site where 78 Nissen huts at Ta’ Qali. Wing’s headquarters was) and (Bottom) the ground the US embassy. crews of 78 Wing ready Yet Ta’ Qali continues to fulfil to leave Malta in 1954 its original role as an airfield. However, the only aircraft that take off from a greatly short- Williamtown in ened runway are radio-con- May 1952 com- trolled models. prising two % Do a U-turn, go back to the T-

Courtesy Bay Retro Courtesy Bay fighter junction and turn right. You are squadrons, 75 now heading to Mtarfa and the and 76 flying David Bruce Royal Naval Hospi- Vampire FB9s. tal (35°53’23”N, 14°23’45”E). Their role was to You should be able to see the supplement the town’s clock tower at your 1 o’- RAF’s presence clock. The bastions on the hill- in the Mediter- top at your 11 o’clock are ranean and Mdina’s. counter the So- Along the way, you’ll pass the viet Union’s in- Mtarfa Military Cemetery fluence in the where two Gallipoli veterans Middle East. The are buried, one Australian and Wing’s advance one New Zealander – 19-year- party arrived in old Sapper Frank Henry Vick- Malta on 9 July ers, who died of his wounds on 1952 – nine 31 May 1915. Vickers was a years to the day driver in 1 Field Company, New after Number 3 Zealand Engineers.

Courtesy Bay Retro Courtesy Bay Squadron had At the roundabout, some 30 landed here. metres along, take the third It was first sta- exit; at the next roundabout, tioned at Hal take the second exit into Triq il- Far, in the Kavalier Vincenzo Bonello. Stay south-east of the on this road, driving past a tele- island, and then com tower, which becomes Triq transferred to San David. You will eventually Ta’ Qali on 9 reach a wide, open space with June 1953. parking bays on your right and In August 1953 a bevy of rubbish skips next to a 14 Squadron gate, photographed below. Park RNZAF, joined here. 78 Wing at Ta’ Qali as part of a

Courtesy Bay Retro Courtesy Bay joint Common- nell Douglas F/A-18 Hornets. wealth air force. The New The squadron is expected to Zealanders, along with the Aus- convert to Lockheed Martin tralians, left Malta in May 1954 F35 fighters in 2020. for Cyprus4. After the war Ta’ Qali was The airfield was handed over to transferred to the Royal Navy’s the Maltese government in Fleet Air Arm on 1 April 1945 1963 and was subsequently as HMS Goldfinch, but was re- closed in April 1968. Nowadays turned to the RAF on 9 June it is a recreational area; there’s 1953. a national park with an am- Now begin a couple of interest- phitheatre (where the likes of ing coincidences. 78 Wing Status Quo, Deep Purple, Demis RAAF was formed at Roussos and Bonnie Tyler have The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 5 Courtesy Malta Aviation Museum Courtesy Malta Aviation The 42-bed hospital was too small to meet the needs of 1915, four barrack blocks were converted into wards. On 17 May Mtarfa received its first convoy of 221 wounded from the Dardanelles. In the foreground is Mtarfa railway station, now a restaurant

The gate is the entrance to the with a small hospital of 42 beds. rived from Egypt, “much to the Kullegg San Nikola, a secondary “On the healthiest site in the is- annoyance of the people in boys school, but until 1978 a land, on the high ground in the Malta”1. To accommodate these naval hospital. However, the centre of Malta”5, the hospital men, four blocks at Mtarfa Bar- ‘hospital’ one sees today is not was expanded at the turn of the racks were evacuated by troops the one wounded and sick An- century and by 1914 had 55 and converted into a temporary zacs would recognise. beds. hospital. This increased the R Mtarfa Barracks was built be- In the third week of March available ‘beddage’ to 355. tween 1891 and 1896 along 1915 500 venereal cases ar- On 8 May Sir Frederick Treves and Colonel Sir Courtauld Thomson, Chief British Red Cross Commissioner for Malta, visited the hospital. Sir Freder- ick suggested the use of a trol- ley for moving patients to and from the operating theatre6. The last VD patients were discharged in early May, and on the 17th Mtarfa “received its first convoy of 221 wounded, followed by 248 the next day and by 147 on the 23rd”1. Until the beginning of summer the majority of patients treated at Mtarfa and most other mili-

Courtesy Bay Retro Courtesy Bay tary hospitals were suffering The clock tower in Mtarfa is an unmistakable landmark. Built in 1895, it kept the from wounds sustained in the time until April 2006. Dardanelles, however from July Because of a shortage of funds to repair it, the town clock became a local election there was a rapid increase of issue. However, volunteers repaired and calibrated the clock in 2008, but because dysentery and enteric cases. its mechanical system dates back to the 1800s it will never be completely accurate. “The wounded were nearly always septic, many badly so, but The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 6 thanks to the protective inocu- Scott’ as he is known among his barrack rooms were converted lation given often on the beach comrades, belongs to the 13th and equipped. By October 1916 under fire, or on the hospital Battalion, A Company of the Mtarfa had 1,853 hospital beds. ship, only a few cases of tetanus Australian Imperial Expedi- This number was maintained or gas gangrene occurred. At tionary Forces. Mr Scotto left until August 1917 when there the field ambulances, the casu- Malta for Australia two years was a slight reduction. Mtarfa alty clearing stations, and dur- ago…and soon after reaching Hospital Mark I was finally ing the several days on board Melbourne was appointed fore- closed in February 1919. the hospital ships, it was not man and interpreter on a large Construction of the buildings possible to do much more than farming estate where many one sees today were begun on 6 perform operations essential for Maltese hands were employed”, January 1915, and were in- saving life, and to apply first aid The Daily Malta Chronicle of 16 tended to replace Valletta Hos- treatment to others”, explains July 1915 reports. pital (now the Mediterranean Dr Bruce. “He turned out a very good set- Conference Centre). However, “The arrival of a convoy there- tler and was looking forward to the war and the immediate need fore meant a period of the hard- still greater successes when the for beds obliged the authorities est work to everyone call of King and Empire which to use the existing hospital. The concerned, until every patient stirred Australia to its depths at new, purpose-built Mtarfa Mili- could be admitted, cleaned up, the outbreak of the war rallied tary Hospital eventually opened bathed, examined, dressed or the manhood of the Common- on 23 June 1920 with 196 beds. operated on when necessary; wealth around the Flag; and Mr but what the wounded men Scotto was among the first to needed most on arrival in hospi- enlist in the Expeditionary tal was a really good sleep, and Force. After being present in it was remarkable how great an several actions in the Dard- improvement the first few days’ anelles he was wounded in the rest in Malta accomplished. arm recently and…brought to “The rush of dysentery and en- Malta, and is now at the Mtarfa teric cases, also wounded com- hospital”, the Chronicle contin- plicated by one or other of these ues. diseases, only increased the al- “We hope”, concludes the ready heavy burdens of the paper, “that the cheering sight staff; for both diseases tax of his native country will soon every energy of the attendants restore him to strength and en- and, in addition, the finest nurs- able him to rejoin his colours”7. ing qualities are required to ob- Scott had enlisted on 4 Septem- tain good results. That a high ber 1914, aged 23, and sailed measure of success was ob- from Sydney on 22 December. tained is proved by the very low He returned to Australia on 17 mortality from these diseases. March 1916. “To cope with the emergency, A month after Scott’s arrival, for it amounted to such, it was on 28 July, 19-year-old Private decided to turn Mtarfa, which Clifton Bluntish of the 5th In- Mirabelli Terence was rapidly expanding to 1,050 fantry Battalion, AIF, was ad- Although dated 1917, this newer Mtarfa beds, entirely into an infectious mitted to Mtarfa hospital from Hospital did not open until 1920 hospital mainly for the dysen- the HS Sicilia with dysentery. tery and enteric group of dis- He recovered and was trans- eases; in addition, infectious ferred to Ghajn Tuffieha Conva- The outbreak of the Second diseases of any other type lescent Camp – the next World War found the hospital brought to Malta or arising in destination on this tour - on 9 precariously located close to Ta’ Malta were isolated in the mar- October. On 13 February 1916 Qali airfield, placing it at risk ried families’ blocks”1. he embarked for Cairo, Egypt, from enemy bombings. On one The only Australian buried at on the hospital ship Simla, but occasion, the operating theatre the Mtarfa Military Cemetery, was admitted to No 1 Australian was hit and the theatre sisters Private Thomas Andrew Beau- Hospital Heliopolis on 19 Febru- seriously injured. doin of the 14th Infantry Battal- ary with appendicitis. In 1941, the hospital took over ion, died of enteric fever on 4 Meanwhile, the expansion at its war role and changed its June 1915. Mtarfa continued; in July ac- name to 90 British General Hos- A more cheerful story is that of commodation was increased to pital. It increased its beds from a Maltese named Joseph Scotto. 1,449 beds, in August 850 more 200 to 2,000 by taking over the Wounded at Gallipoli, he arrived beds were added under canvas whole of the infantry barracks in Malta on 14 June and was on the parade grounds and for for hospital wards, and the transferred to Mtarfa. “‘Joe the next 18 months even more pitching of tented wards on the The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 7 football pitch. 90 BGH reverted back to 600 beds in late 1944. On 1 March 1951 the hospital’s name was changed to The David Bruce Military Hospital (see the sidebar on page 4 of Tour 1). And 11 years later it was transferred to the Royal Navy, when the Royal Army Medical Corps severed its ties with the Maltese 6 islands . Bonnici Walter Courtesy The 235-bed David Bruce Mili- Ghajn Tuffieha Camp could accommodate up to 5,000 men who were nearly fit enough to tary Hospital served the needs return to their units. The camp was closed in 1919 of the British military and naval personnel until its closure in 1978. It is now a school, whilst Mgarr, the N17, you’ll reach an- peace on account of its bathing the barrack blocks that served other Y junction; take the right facilities and cool breezes”5. as wards in WWI have been con- fork for Ghajn Tuffieha. This Fast forward to the summer of verted to government housing. hamlet is Zebbiegh, and located 1915, when the wounded and % The next two points of inter- here are the Skorba Neolithic sick from the Dardanelles re- est were not hospitals, but con- temples (not much left to see). covered and no longer required valescent camps, and both Stay on this road to it’s end – hospitalisation, convalescent overlooked popular beaches – you’ll know you’ve reached it camps and depots were estab- Ghajn Tuffieha (35°55’51”N, when the road angles right and lished. 14°20’46”E) and Mellieha Bay. you’re driving downhill to a T These received officers and Continue down Triq l-Imtarfa junction. men who required no further and on reaching a Y junction, Turn left at the very faded medical attention and who al- take the first road on the left – signpost and drive towards the though not yet fit for duty were the road narrows. At the inter- sea. You’ll soon reach an open likely to become so in a reason- section with the dual carriage- space and car park. On the left ably short time. The patients way, Triq il-Maltin Internati u you’ll see a derelict old building, admitted to these establish- Eziljati, turn left. You are now once a swish hotel. You are now ments had not only to be well on the Mtarfa circular road; at Ghajn Tuffieha. enough to look after them- when you reach the roundabout With Ghajn Tuffieha at your selves, but also be able to con- you were on a while ago, take back, you’ll see a modern hotel tribute to the construction and the third exit. And it’s the first overlooking Golden Bay – once running of the camps6. exit at the next roundabout. known as Military Bay. To the In August 1915 work began on Follow the signs for Mosta and right are the remains of Ghajn converting the military camp at Gozo. Drive down this road, Triq Tuffieha Training Camp. Ghajn Tuffieha, no doubt chosen Buqana, for a couple of kilome- R The Royal Navy acquired because of its “cool breezes and tres until you reach yet another land here in 1902 for the train- bathing facilities”, into a conva- roundabout. Take the first exit ing of Royal Marines, and by lescent hospital for 5,000. marked l-Mgarr. 1910 permanent buildings had As the work began, the Gover- As you drive uphill towards been erected. However, accord- nor General, Field Marshal Lord ing to General William Methuen, ordered a part of the The site of Ghajn Tuffieha Convalescent MacPherson it “had been used camp to be used as a discipli- Camp is now a national park as a summer camp in time of nary compound for those caus- Terence Mirabelli Terence

The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 8 ing trouble in the hospitals. The Each camp was organised to be Scout Association’s official camp was still in its very early as self-supporting as possible. campsite. stages of development and the The staff of the convalescent % Retrace your route to the last rooms had trestles and boards depot included a headquarters intersection, but do not turn but no mattresses. staff with offices for the com- right. About 100 metres along When the first batch of 400 mandant, adjutants, paymaster, take the left fork signposted ‘il- troublemakers arrived on 8 Au- camp quartermaster, sanitary Manikata’, see the photograph gust, they were not too pleased officer and camp sergeant below. to learn that they had to sleep major with a chief clerk and his on a hard surface. The following clerks drawn from the convales- morning they complained to the cents. The camp workers - Governor, who had unwisely cooks, nursing orderlies and visited the detention compound. mess orderlies - were also all se- Through his efforts, however, lected from the convalescents. enough blankets and beds were Each camp had its own veg- transported to the camp the etable garden and a four- evening. hectare plot for the cultivation By the end of the month, mean- of potatoes. The camp also had a time, Ghajn Tuffieha Convales- poultry yard to provide fresh cent Camp had 2,000 beds, eggs. which increased to 3,000 in A number of workshops were September. Three camps were built by the convalescents, formed initially with a central under the supervision of a con- headquarters. The Royal Engi- valescing officer of the Royal neers provided kitchens, ablu- Engineers. Printing and tailor- tion rooms and the necessary ing workshops were built. Items sanitary conveniences. produced at the workshops Drive across the Pwales Valley, were sold to the Malta’s most fertile, and up the public and any hill towards the village of money raised Manikata. Follow the signs for was added to Mellieha. When you reach Triq the welfare il-Mejjiesa, turn right and then fund. take the second left, into Triq il- The men also Mellieha – passing the avant- organised the- garde church of St Joseph. atrical groups Now, just follow the road – it’s and produced a the only one. When you reach a Christmas pan- large roundabout on the out- tomime. skirts of Mellieha, there’s a The camp in- service station facing you, take

Courtesy Walter Bonnici Walter Courtesy cluded a cot the first exit towards Mellieha Cards were produced and printed at the camp’s own printing press hospital con- Bay. sisting of three As you drive downhill, towards or four special the bay, you’ll see a wooded By the following summer, in huts with beds for 100 cases. area facing the beach; this is July 1916, Ghajn Tuffieha was The hospital had its own dispen- where the Mellieha Convales- expanded to accommodate sary, kitchen, pantry, pack cent Camp was located. Today, 5,000 convalescents in self-sup- store and bathroom. The camp it’s a Danish-run holiday resort porting ‘satellite’ camps. These hospital admitted only minor and there’s absolutely nothing were built by the men them- sick. Those who had not im- to see that remains from a cen- selves and each named after a proved within a couple of days tury ago. saint: St Peter’s, St Lawrence, were returned to the military R “Towards the end of 1915 the St Barnabas, St James and St hospitals. Four dental officers question of room for convales- Anthony. A lot of the accommo- attached to the RAMC worked cents again became urgent”, Dr dation was in huts, but most at the hospital. Bruce explains. It was not con- were tents. Ghajn Tuffieha Convalescent sidered advisable to expand Each took 1,000 convalescents Camp closed in January 19196. Ghajn Tuffieha and another site and had its own quartermaster. After the Second World War, had to be chosen. Mellieha A medical officer took charge of and right up to the late 1960s, Camp, used for training in each camp and was responsible Ghajn Tuffieha reverted to its peacetime, was selected. for its administration and en- original use – as a training camp “In its favour were its ex- suring the men were fit to re- for British and NATO troops. tremely healthy site, its isola- turn to active service. Nowadays part of it is the Malta tion from the civil population The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 9 % When you reach the roundabout at the bottom of the hill, turn left, towards the former Mellieha Convalescent Camp and the beach, and follow the road for the Gozo ferry. When you reach a T junction at the end of the Marfa peninsula you’ll be faced with a dilapi- dated red building. You’ll find parking facilities to the right. R Once the grandiosely named Marfa Palace Hotel, and later a police station, it was turned into a “fine tea room and club for the Mellieha convalescents”1. Terence Mirabelli Terence Now a wooded area sheltering a holiday resort (centre left), Mellieha Camp kept men busy and readied them for a return to active service

and the easy access to the sea January the whole of the first for bathing; against it was its camp was completed. Patients distance from Valletta, entailing began to arrive the following long journeys for the transport day, and they shortly amounted of equipment, supplies and pa- to 1,050. tients; but the excellence of the “As at Ghajn Tuffieha every- site more than counter-bal- thing was done to keep the pa- anced these drawbacks”, writes tients busy, happy and

Dr Bruce. contented; but the main idea of Mirabelli Terence “Ultimately intended to expand getting them fit for service by The Marfa Palace Hotel was a fine tea room to 3,000 beds, a start was made route marching, physical drill for Mellieha convalescents with the first 1,000 in Novem- and useful work within the ber 1915, the Royal Engineers camp was never neglected”1. providing the essentials, prepa- In the first six months of 1916 A number of establishments ration of sites for marquees, accommodation increased to around the island had tearooms kitchens, ablution places, et 1,250 beds, in September it had where soldiers were offered cetera. reached 2,000 and maintained “harmless refreshment and hos- “On 19 January (1916) 100 that number until August 1917. pitality”8. hospital beds and 500 convales- The Mellieha camp closed on 5 It would seem natural that cent beds were ready and on 30 September 1917. young men - who had been through the hell of the Dard- anelles - would want to let off steam in a big way after they had recovered from their wounds. Therefore, keeping them entertained and busy was important; the authorities cer- tainly did not want any unnec- essary problems. Writing of the men who are “becoming convalescent” and “can get beyond the ward, some on the arms of their companions, some on their own feet and some on crutches. When they get the length of the streets where are they to go”, asks the Rev MacKinnon. “This is a most important ques-

Courtsey Malta Aviation Museum Courtsey Malta Aviation tion, for temptation lurks at From 1915 Malta was awash in tents to house the thousands of wounded, sick and every corner, and somehow at convalescing men from the Gallipoli and later from the Salonika campaigns the most critical point the mili- The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 10 tary authori- If the Mellieha ties seem to Camp was consid- think that ered far, what their special then of Fort Cham- care termi- bray in Gozo? nates, except On 4 October for certain or- 1915 the fort, built ders, which, in the 18th Cen- alas, are too tury on the easily evaded. heights above the “The need was port of Mgarr, so urgent opened as a conva- that…I felt that lescent camp for something 400 other ranks. must be done”, It supplemented writes the Rev the overcrowded MacKinnon. All Saints camp in “Of course the Pembroke. people in Malta

In the short time are very kind Malta Richard Ellis Archive it was operational to the Convalescent Anzacs enjoying a beer. From the Gallipoli campaign 2,500 officers and 55,400 it ‘processed’ wounded. They soldiers were treated in Malta. The last Gallipoli veterans left the islands in the spring of 1916 1,579 men, who are given the- were all returned atre entertain- to active service. ments, and thony Zarb-Dimech in his his- by many Maltese and shown It had its own sometimes gar- tory of the First World War. around the most interesting newspaper, The den parties, “As soon as the wounded were places and historical monu- Fort Chambray but what the released from hospitals…many ments”, Zarb-Dimech9 adds. Gazette, unique poor fellows Maltese families welcomed The treatment and hospitality among convales- need to keep them in numbers varying from received in Malta is possibly cent camps them straight eight to 10 at their homes, invit- best illustrated by the simple, It was closed on is a home and a ing them for tea and manifested heartfelt, words of a wounded 13 March 1916. kindly Chris- to them utmost care and affec- Anzac as he was being trans- tian atmos- tion. ferred to hospital on arrival phere”2. “Those wounded that could not from Gallipoli: “Well I never; the Homes were provided by many be invited at Maltese homes Dardanelles is nothing to Maltese families, writes An- were often taken around Malta this!”10

Sources 6Military Hospitals in Malta during the 1Malta Military Hospitals 1915-1917, a Great War 1914-1918 (Walter Bonnici, short account of their inception and de- www.maltaramc.com) 7 velopment (George Bruce, MA, MD, The Daily Malta Chronicle of 16 July Proudly sponsored DPH, Capt, RAMC, (SR), Specialist Sani- 1915 quoted in Gallipoli The Malta Con- tary Officer, Malta) nection (John Mizzi, Tecnografica Pub- by 2Malta The Nurse of the Mediterranean lications 1991) CommBank Europe Limited (Rev Albert G MacKinnon MA, Hodder 8The Daily Malta Chronicle of 18 May and Stoughton 1916) 1915 quoted in Gallipoli The Malta Con- 3Gallipoli The Malta Connection (John nection (John Mizzi, Tecnografica Pub- Mizzi, Tecnografica Publications 1991) lications 1991) 4Military Aviation in Malta GC, 1915- 9Malta during the First World War 1914- 1993; A Comprehensive History (John 1918 (Anthony Zarb-Dimech, BDL F Hamlin, GMS Enterprises 1994) Books 2014) 5History of the Great War, Medical 10The Daily Malta Chronicle of 22 June Services General History Vol 1 (Maj 1915 quoted in Gallipoli The Malta Con- Written and designed by Terence Mirabelli, Island Pub- Gen Sir W G MacPherson KCMG, CB, nection (John Mizzi, Tecnografica Pub- lications Ltd, on behalf of the Australian High Commis- sion in Malta. LLD, HMSO 1921) lications 1991) Australian High Commission: Ir-Rampa Ta’ Xbiex, Ta’ Xbiex XBX 1034. Tel 2133820 Fax 21344059 Site www.malta.highcommission.gov.au/ mlta/home.html Island Publications Ltd: 36/38 Triq l-Isperanza, Mosta MST 1309. Tel 21431864 Site www.travelmalta.com Copyright © 2015 Australian High Commission, Malta. Island Publications (IPL) was unable to locate the copyright holder of some photographs used in this document. IPL will pay a usage fee to the legal copyright holder if he identifies himself with proof of title. The ANZAC experience in Malta - Departure • 11