SIN CITY IN THE KITCHEN

LEFT: Chef Jean Paul Labadie. BELOW: Labadie’s signature lobster pot pie

shop with a deli of sorts, making Table 10 and Emeril’s New Orleans sandwiches and small plates. While Fish House—Labadie brought the not exactly groundbreaking, it skills and cachet Marché Bacchus did attract the interest of Rhonda needed. “It was time for me to get and Jeff Wyatt, a local couple who back to my roots,” the chef says of befriended the French proprietors. his decision to join the Wyatts. “[To Jeff Wyatt, who had spent 20 years be] a little more hands on, which is in the healthcare industry, had been what I’m doing right now.” a hobbyist oenophile for most of Labadie says he enjoys the more his life and quickly found himself personal, more intimate stage that helping Marché Bacchus’ owner Marché Bacchus provides. While select the wines. “Later on we were still a bistro at heart—everything just having a conversation while jog- is made from scratch and kept ging,” says Wyatt, “and I said, ‘Hey, simple—the chef’s approach is to if you’re ever interested in selling the expand the detailing of the dishes place, I’m interested in buying it.’” through seasoning and sauces. In 2007 he and his wife did just that. Borrowing his mentor’s famous While the former owners had catch phrase, Labadie describes the made an initial attempt at devel- process as “bistro food kicked up a oping a food program, it was the little bit more than it was before.” Wyatts who oversaw Marché An unassuming entrance, fol- Bacchus’ evolution into bistro lowed by an at-your-leisure walk cuisine, most notably with the hir- through the wine shop, takes diners ing of chef Jean Paul Labadie. A to their choice of the cozy din- 14-year veteran of Emeril Lagasse’s ing room or the expansive patio kitchens—the flagship Emeril’s area, which offers the rare treat of New Orleans, as well as Las Vegas’ scenic year-round outdoor dining.

FRENCH TWIST Marché Bacchus is a French bistro, wine bar and shop, all rolled into one.

THE DESIRE FOR an authentic price) that can detract from a diner’s French bistro experience, with all joie de vivre. But away from the hul- the Bordeaux, baguette and Brie labaloo, in the Westside residential accoutrements, is a familiar one for neighborhood of Desert Shores, on those who appreciate the hearty picturesque Lake Jacqueline, it’s goodness of a well-rounded meal actually possible to dine and drink without the frilly extras of trendy as the French intended, one bottle haute cuisine. Approximations of of wine at a time. le bistro can be found on the Strip, There’s a duality to Marché but there’s often a price to be paid Bacchus embedded in its DNA: It

(be it wattage, foot traffic or, well, first opened in 2000 as a retail wine PHOTOGRAPHS BY SABIN ORR

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(An advanced mist system keeps things cool in summer, while heat lamps and fireplaces warm the setting during cooler months.) The tables, waterside environment including ducks, swans and the occasional boat, twinkling lights and lush greenery add something otherworldly—or at least other Las Vegas—to the experience. Chef Labadie has crafted sea- sonal menus, playing on standard bistro fare. Crab cakes are rolled in a pistachio crust or enhanced by truffle oil and served with celery root slaw. Seared scallops come regions. It even features an Oz with wild chanterelle and lobster Winebar system, which allows for mushrooms, toothsome and satisfy- one-, three- or five-ounce pours ing with a bacon reduction and an from a rotating list of 20 different accompanying glass of 2007 Penner wines available by the glass—perfect Ash Pinot Noir from Oregon. for patrons who prefer to sit at the A seared duck breast with napa wine bar and sample for pleasure. cabbage is perfect alongside an Every Saturday, from 11:30 AM apple-and-duck confit with an apple to 1:30 PM, Marché Bacchus hosts a glaze. A creamy peppercorn sauce free wine tasting, typically featuring and au gratin potatoes round out bottles rated 90 points or higher. a delightfully tender filet of beef; Wyatt is especially proud of the try it paired with a 2005 Altamura bistro’s generous corkage policy: Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa For just $10 over the retail price, Valley. The lobster pot pie, with any bottle of wine purchased in the roasted tomato, spinach, mush- shop can be consumed immediately rooms and lobster cream sauce, at the table. Unique to Marché is a culinary phenomenon; with a Bacchus, it’s led many a satisfied puff pastry lid, it’s a signature dish CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Marché Bacchus’ patio and wine shop; Chef Labadie’s seared customer to walk away with a case from the chef. Paella, roasted rack duck breast; black and pink peppercorn-crusted seared ahi tuna for the road. “We see quite a bit of lamb, pan-roasted chicken breast of that, actually, where people will and classic moules frites are other come in, have something with din- popular menu items. Dessert is not ner and buy it as they’re leaving,” to be missed—bread pudding with says Wyatt. cinnamon rum sauce is as homey Perhaps more unassuming due and filling as one found in a café to its cultural heritage and tucked- along the banks of the Seine. away location than its mega dining Labadie’s influence has rein- peers on the Strip, Marché Bacchus vigorated the menu, bouncing is nonetheless becoming a known from light to rich, spicy to subtle, entity for Las Vegas bons vivants. all while playing in concert with “We do have quite a few customers the restaurant’s bountiful wine list. come from the Strip,” Wyatt says. And although much has changed “The concierges at the hotels, or on the food side, what hasn’t been even some of the restaurateurs, tell lost is Marché Bacchus’ commit- them their favorite place is Marché ment to wine retail. The shop stocks Bacchus.” 2620 Regatta Drive, more than 950 labels from all of 702-804-8008; marchebacchus.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SABIN ORR the world’s major wine-growing —MICHAEL B. DOUGHERTY

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