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Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest 8

Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest 8

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Washington, & the Northwest

Vancouver, Whistler & Island p378

Northwestern & the p105

Seattle p70 # Central & Eastern & Washington Washington Washington Coast Cascades p193 p131 p163

Columbia # River Gorge p221 p272 The Willamette Central Valley & Wine Oregon & Country the Oregon p252 Cascades p285 p355 Ashland & p302 p333

Becky Ohlsen, Robert Balkovich, Celeste Brash, John Lee, MaSovaida Morgan, Brendan Sainsbury PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the ...... 70 CENTRAL & EASTERN . . . . . 4 WASHINGTON. . . . 193 The Pacific Northwest’s Top 25...... 8 NORTHWESTERN Leavenworth...... 195 WASHINGTON Need to Know...... 20 Cashmere ...... 198 & THE SAN JUAN Wenatchee...... 199 What’s New...... 22 ISLANDS...... 105 Yakima Valley ...... 200 Accommodations. . . . . 24 Northwest Coast. . . . 107 Ellensburg...... 200 If You Like ...... 26 Bellingham ...... 107 Yakima...... 202 Month by Month. . . . . 30 Island ...... 111 Toppenish ...... 204 Itineraries ...... 33 Anacortes ...... 112 Tri-Cities ...... 206 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 37 Lower Valley. . . 113 Walla Walla ...... 207 Pacific Northwest ...... 116 Road Trips...... 45 Pullman...... 211 San Juan Islands. . . . . 118 Pacific Northwest Spokane...... 212 Outdoors...... 51 Grand Coulee Dam Area. . . 217 Family Travel...... 61 OLYMPIC PENINSULA Valley. . . 218 & WASHINGTON Regions at a Glance. . . . 64 . . . 219 COAST...... 131 Olympia...... 133

LOUIELEA/SHUTTERSTOCK © PORTLAND. . . . . 221 Olympic Peninsula. . . . 136 . . . 142 THE WILLAMETTE Northwestern VALLEY & WINE Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 147 COUNTRY ...... 252 Olympic Coastal Strip. . . 150 Oregon City...... 253 Washington Coast. . . . 151 Champoeg State Grays Harbor Area. . . . . 152 Heritage Area...... 256 . . . 156 Newberg & Dundee. . . . . 256 Vancouver...... 160 McMinnville...... 259 Salem...... 262 TOFINO P425, WASHINGTON Corvallis...... 265 CASCADES . . . . . 163 Eugene...... 266 Mt Baker Area...... 165 McKenzie Region...... 270 CUCUMBER IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK © Upper Skagit River Valley...... 167 National Park ...... 168 GORGE...... 272 Methow Valley ...... 171 The Western Gorge & Columbia River Highway. . . 273 Stehekin...... 176 Cascade Locks...... 273 Chelan & Around. . . . . 178 Across the Border. . . . . 276 Mt Rainier Area...... 180 Hood River...... 277 Crystal Mountain. . . . . 186 The Dalles & Around. . . . 281 Mt St Helens...... 188 Eastern Gorge...... 284 TOTEM POLES, STANLEY Mt Adams ...... 191 PARK P379, VANCOUVER Contents

UNDERSTAND

CENTRAL OREGON Crater Lake National History...... 436 Park ...... 347 & THE OREGON Life as a Pacific CASCADES . . . . . 285 Rogue River...... 349 Northwesterner . . . . . 444 Klamath Falls ...... 352 Mt Hood...... 287 Music & the Arts . . . . 447 Maupin & the Lower Klamath Basin National Deschutes River...... 290 Wildlife Refuges...... 354 Wild Things...... 452 Mt Jefferson & the Sustainable Metolius River...... 291 EASTERN Pacific Northwest. . . . 457 Sisters ...... 292 OREGON ...... 355 Bend...... 294 Pendleton ...... 358 Cascade Lakes...... 300 La Grande...... 360 SURVIVAL Willamette Pass...... 300 . . . . 361 GUIDE Joseph...... 362 OREGON COAST. . . 302 Baker City...... 366 Directory A–Z...... 460 Astoria...... 304 ...... 368 Seaside ...... 308 John Day Fossil Beds Transportation . . . . . 465 National Monument. . . .. 370 Cannon Beach ...... 310 Index...... 472 Ontario...... 371 Manzanita...... 312 Burns...... 372 Map Legend...... 478 Nehalem & Wheeler. . . . 313 Malheur National Tillamook...... 314 Wildlife Refuge...... 374 Lincoln City...... 315 ...... 376 Newport...... 317 Yachats...... 319 VANCOUVER, WHISTLER Florence...... 321 & VANCOUVER Oregon Dunes National ISLAND ...... 378 Recreation Area...... 323 Vancouver...... 379 Reedsport...... 324 Whistler...... 401 Coos Bay & North Bend. . . 324 Sunshine Coast ...... 405 Charleston & Around. . . . 326 . . . . . 408 Port Orford ...... 328 ...... 408 Brookings ...... 331 Valley...... 418 SPECIAL ...... 420 FEATURES ASHLAND & SOUTHERN OREGON ...... 333 Parksville & Qualicum. . . . 422 Road Trips Route Map. . .. 48 Pacific Rim National Ashland...... 335 Park Reserve...... 423 Pacific Northwest Outdoors Map...... 55 Medford...... 338 Tofino...... 425 Jacksonville...... 340 Campbell River...... 428 Kids’ Corner ...... 63 Grants Pass...... 341 Port Hardy...... 430 Where to Stay in Oregon Caves Cape Scott Provincial Seattle Map...... 82 National Monument. . . .. 343 Park ...... 431 Seattle Area Ferry North . . . . 344 Southern Routes...... 468 Roseburg...... 346 ...... 431 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33

Itineraries

Whistler BRITISH •# COLUMBIA

É Vancouver

•# A N A D A É C Orcas U S A •#Island

Victoria •# É Olympic ÷# WASHINGTON National Park •# Seattle É Mt Rainier ÷# National Park

É Columbia PA C I F I C River Gorge O C E A N •# Portland •# R Mt Hood

Oregon •# É Coast OREGON

IDAHO É

÷# Crater Lake National Park

4 WEEKS Pacific Northwest Grand Tour

Just want to hit the highlights? This is an extraordinary route that will make you want to come back for more. Vancouver boasts wonderful parks, ethnic attractions and cool neighborhoods. Further south, on Vancouver Island, is charming and picture-perfect Victoria. If it’s winter, hit the world-class slopes of Whistler. Bustling Seattle offers myriad attractions, a unique skyline and great cuisine. Now head north to the beautiful San Juan Islands, such as woodsy , where you can bike around or just relax. Back on the mainland, Olympic National Park is the jewel of the Olympic Peninsula, with a unique rainforest ecosystem. For more of the state’s gorgeous landscapes, Mt Rainier National Park is a must. There’s no escaping the attractions in Portland – from its landmark Powell’s book- store to its many microbreweries to tax-free (and hip) shopping. Just east are the grand vistas, hiking trails and waterfalls of the . Nearby Mt Hood is unbeatable for camping, hiking and skiing. Much further south, Crater Lake National Park is a geologic wonder with supreme scenery. Finally, if you have time left over, there’s the grandeur (and seafood cuisine) of the beautiful Oregon coast. 34

Cape Scott

#÷ Provincial Park É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Vancouver BRITISH Island COLUMBIA

PA C I F I C O C E A N

C A N A D A É It

i nerar Moran State Mt Park É San Juan Constitution ÷#R •#É Island National É Tofino Historical Park Orcas ÷#

É

Island Pacific Rim É Cowichan i es ÷# Vancouver San National Valley S E Island Juan Park Reserve

É ÷# Island

Lime

Lopez É É •# É

iln Point Island Victoria É State Park Victoria

•# É

E U S A

2 WEEKS Island Hop

Washington’s San Juans are an archipelago of hundreds of beautiful, verdant islands covering some 750 sq miles. Only about 60 are inhabited, and just four are accessible by public ferry. Three of these islands bring thousands of vacationers every year, but each has managed to keep a serene atmosphere and distinct character. has the best tourist facilities, along with the archipelago’s only siza- ble town, Friday Harbor. Its Lime Kiln Point State Park offers prime whale-watching; in June, keep a lookout for killer or minke whales feasting on salmon runs. To the north is San Juan Island National Historical Park, with old British military facilities and earthwork fortifications, and – on clear days – great mountain views. The largest of the islands, Orcas Island is probably the most beautiful – and the poshest. It’s dotted with fancy homes, and the lack of a central town gives it an exclusive neighborhood feel. Check out , which offers camping, fishing, hiking and mountain biking. Mt Constitution, the archipelago’s highest point, is also here, featuring some of the finest views in Washington. is the most peaceful island, with friendly locals and pastoral charm. Don’t expect too many tourist services – agriculture and farming are the main focus. The mostly flat island is made for cycling, and there’s little vehicular traffic. A much larger island to explore is BC’s Vancouver Island, linked to Friday Harbor by two daily ferries between April and January. Start in Victoria, a cosmopolitan city with a variety of ethnic cultures, along with a touch of old Britain. Can’t-miss attrac- tions include the world-famous Butchart Gardens and high tea at the grand Fairmont Empress Hotel. Wine-lovers and foodies should head to the Cowichan Valley, home to boutique wineries and organic farms. Further west is the coastal town of Tofino, where you can go kayaking and spot marine life. Nearby is Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, with rainforest, crashing surf, islands to explore and amazing hiking. Finally, head to land’s end at Cape Scott Provincial Park to explore the pristine beaches; outdoor-lovers have miles of challenging trails and backcountry camping opportunities. 35

Vancouver Island a n a a

•#San Juan Islands

Anacortes TRIP YOUR PLAN •# s a

Victoria •#

É É

É •#

Olympic Port Townsend É

National Park # É ÷

Seattle •# •#

It É É i nerar •# Mt Rainier P A C I F I C Olympia National Park O C E A N ÷#

É É i es

É

R Mt St Helens

2 WEEKS Seattle & Washington

The Pacific Northwest’s largest city, Seattle has plenty going for it – a great location on the , myriad dynamic neighborhoods, interesting sights and attractions, lots of first-rate coffee and beer, and – looming over it all – the lofty peak of majestic Mt Rainier. Must-sees include Pioneer Square, Pike Place Market, the and the Space Needle, but there’s plenty more to keep you busy. Get out of town by hopping on a ferry to Bainbridge Island, then heading north to Port Townsend. With its Victorian architecture and location on the , this picturesque little town is a magnet for artists and eclectic personalities. From here you can take a bicycle on a ferry to the San Juan Islands, though if you want to drive you’ll have to access them via Anacortes (more on this later). Work your way east along the Olympic Peninsula, perhaps stopping in Port Angeles for a quick day trip to Vancouver Island’s pretty capital, Victoria. Olympic National Park can’t be missed. Its coastal strip includes 57 miles of remote beaches with pounding waves and wild scenery; visit Rialto Beach for amazing views. Inland, the Hoh Rain Forest is a prime destination with its famous Hall of Moss Trail. Now head further south to Lake Quinault, a gorgeous glacier-fed lake boasting a grand historic lodge. This is the place to go fishing, boating or swimming. Next, pack it up and drive to Olympia, Washington’s lively capital, which is full of music culture. Volcanic Mt St Helens should be on your itinerary; she blew her top in 1980, losing 1314ft of elevation. Not to be outclassed, Mt Rainier is another can’t-miss geologic land- mark. Hope for good weather and go hiking among glaciers, alpine meadows and old- growth forests in Mt Rainier National Park. Looping back to I-5, drive up to Anacortes and take a ferry to the beautiful San Juan Islands. There are three distinct main islands to explore. San Juan Island has undulating hills and a scenic west coast, where you can spot whales; upscale Orcas Island claims the area’s highest peak; and Lopez Island is flat, laid-back and great for cycling. IRINA88W/GETTY IMAGES © Butchart Port Townsend Townsend Port Top: Washington (p136), Bottom: Gardens (p418), Island Vancouver

2009FOTOFRIENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

WRITER THANKS John Lee Heartfelt thanks to Maggie for joining me at all those Becky Ohlsen restaurants and for keeping me calm during the I would like to thank Paul Smith for being a great travel brain-throbbing final write-up phase of this project. companion, and all the dedicated volunteers at the many wonderful tiny museums, state parks, national Brendan Sainsbury parks and campgrounds we visited along the way. Many thanks to all the people who helped me, unwit- tingly or otherwise, during my research trip. Special Robert Balkovich thanks to my wife, Liz, my son, Kieran, and my Thank you, as always, to my friends and family for mother-in-law, Ammy, for their company on the road. your continued support while I run hither and thither and yon. Special thanks to Karin, for sharing your love of Seattle with me and setting me off on the right foot. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Celeste Brash BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Thanks to my husband, Josh, and my kids, and to Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and many friends old and new that helped out this time Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. around, including Ticari, Chris and Ashley, Nathan, Dana, Jon and Kara, Ron and Nisa, Elizabeth, Pattye, Cover photograph: , Columbia Rachel Cabakoff, Amanda Castleman, Dave Nevins River Gorge, Oregon; Theerapat Chawannakul/ and Amy Hunter. Shutterstock©

Destination Editor Lou McGregor, Anne Mulvaney, THIS BOOK Ben Buckner Orr, Monique Perrin, This 8th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Sarah Reid Planet’s Washington, Ore- Martine Power, Vicky Smith Senior Cartographer gon & the Pacific Northwest Diana Von Holdt guidebook was curated by Regional Senior Alison Lyall Becky Ohlsen and researched Cartographer Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski and written by Becky, Robert Product Editor Katie Connolly Balkovich, Celeste Brash, John Book Designer Thanks to Donna Avallone, Lee, MaSovaida Morgan and Ania Bartoszek Sasha Drew, Lauren Graham, Andi Jones, John Malone, Brendan Sainsbury. They also Assisting Editors Janet contributed to the previous two Austin, Sarah Bailey, James Robert Martzen, Lauren editions. This guidebook was Bainbridge, Carly Hall, Victoria O’Connell, Angela Tinson, produced by the following: Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Regina Wright ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 472

Index

A Second Beach 379 147 Mt Olympus 141 Aberdeen 154 Third Beach 379 Scenic Mt Rainier National accessible travel 101, 460 Walton Beach 247 Area 320 Park 181 accommodations 23, 24-5, Watmough Head 129 Cape Scott Provincial Cloudraker Skybridge Park 431 23, 402 81-5, 82-3, see also beer 39-40, 39 car travel 466, 469-70, see Cobain, Kurt 155 individual locations beer festivals also road trips activities 30-2, 51-60, 55, Bellingham Beer Week 108 coffee 14, 38-9, 40, 14 Carbon Glacier 186 see also individual Festival of the Dark Arts Columbia River Gorge 10, 67, car-share programs 470 activities 305 272-84, 274-5, 10 air travel 465, 466 Fresh Hop Beer Cascade Drive 49, 48, 27 accommodations 272 airports 465 Festivals 32 Cascade Lakes 300 climate 272 Alaska, travel to 466 Holiday Ale Festival 229 Cascade Locks 273-6 food 272 195 Oktoberfest 196 Cascadia Marine Trail 58, 117 highlights 274-5, 274-5 377 Vancouver Craft Beer Cashmere 198-9 travel seasons 272 A-maze-ing Laughter 379 Week 389 282 Columbia River Hwy 273 amusement parks 263, 420 Bellingham 107-11 cell phones 20, 460 Colville 219-20 Anacortes 112-13 Bend 294-9 67, 285-301, Colville National Forest animals 452-5, see also bicycling 53-4, 466-7 286 219-20 individual animals Galloping Goose Trail 409 accommodations 285 Valley 427-8 Ape Cave 188 Portland 227, 228 climate 285 Coos Bay 324-5 aquariums 308, 317, 326, San Juan Islands 126 food 285 Copalis 153 416, 424 Seattle 79 highlights 286, 286 Corvallis 265-6 Greenway 23 Vancouver 385 travel seasons 285 Coupeville 117-18 architecture 451 birds 354, 455, 27 66, 193- Cowboy Dinner Tree 299 area codes 21 Blackcomb gondola 23 200, 194 Cowichan Bay 419 art tours 225, 227 Blue Mountains 366 accommodations 193 Cowichan Valley 418-20 Ashland 68, 335-8 boat travel 276, 430, 467, 468 climate 193 Crater Lake National Park 12, Astoria 304-8 Boeing 104 food 193 347-9, 348, 13 276 highlights 194, 194 cross-country skiing 56, see also skiing B booking services 25 travel seasons 193 Crystal Mountain 186-8 B&Bs 24 bookstores 100, 249, 398, 417 Centralia 134 culture 444-51 Bainbridge Island 102 bowling 430 Champoeg State Heritage currency 20, 379 Baker City 366-8 Brentwood Bay 418 Area 256 customs regulations 460 bald eagles 354, 455 Brookings 331-2 Charleston 326 cycling, see bicycling Bandon 327-8 budget 21, 24, 237 Chelan 178-80 beaches 27 Chemainus 419-20 Cypress Island 128 Bumbershoot 11, 32, 11 Chihuly, Dale 450 Alki Beach Park 76 Burns 372-4 children, travel with 24, 61-3 Collins Beach 247 bus travel 465-6, 467-9 D internet resources 63 Kitsilano Beach 384 bushwalking, see hiking Dalles, the 281-3 Oregon Coast 306 Lincoln City 316 business hours 21 dangers, see safety Pacific Beach 153 Seattle 79 Butchart Gardens 418, 36 State Qualicum Beach 422 climate 20, 30-2, 20, see Park 116 Ruby Beach 151 also individual regions Depoe Bay 316-17 C climbing 53, see also rock Diablo Lake 168, 27 Campbell River 428-9 climbing Diamond Lake 345-6 camping 24 Leavenworth 196 Map Pages 000 disabilities, travelers with Cannon Beach 310-12 Mt Baker 165 Photo Pages 000 101, 460 canoeing 80 Mt Hood 288 473 Discover Pass 136 Procession of the Grand Coulee Dam Area Vancouver National 72 Species 133 217-18 Historic Reserve 161 distilleries 23, 41 Seattle 81 Grants Pass 341-2 history 436-43, 438 diving 80 Skagit County Tulip Grays Harbor 152-6 Hoh Rain Forest 16, 146, 16 Festival 114 drinking 23, 37-44, 39 green cities 458 holidays 463 Tour de Lopez 129 drinks 41, see also beer, wine grunge music 97, 155, Hood River 277-81

Washington State 447-8 INDEX driver’s licenses 469 Hood River County Fruit International Kite 113 Loop 278 driving, see car travel Festival 157 Gum Wall 73 Hoquiam 154 Duncan 418-19 film 448-9

Dundee 256-9 horseback riding 176,  D-K film festivals 81, 229, 449 196, 361 fishing 58-9 H Halfway 365-6 hostels 24 E Lower Deschutes River Hanford B-Reactor 207 hot springs 18, 28, 18 Eagle Creek Fire 281 290 health 461-2 Alvord Hot Springs 377 Eastern Gorge 284 McKenzie River 270 Hells Canyon 364-5 Bagby Hot Springs 269 eastern Oregon 68, 355-77, Methow Valley 173 Breitenbush Hot Springs Stehekin River 176 Hells Canyon Dam 365 356-7 269 accommodations 355 Westport 155 Highway 101 Oregon Coast 45-6, 48 Crystal Crane Hot climate 355 Florence 321-3 Springs 373 hiking 26, 51-2 food 355 food 27, 37-44, 87, 37, 41, Sol Duc Hot Springs Anthony Lakes 367 highlights 356-7, 356-7 44, see also individual Resort 143 Crater Lake National locations Terwilliger Hot Springs travel seasons 355 Park 350 food carts 13, 43, 238, 269 66, Dog Mountain 277 200-220, 13, 42 Umpqua Hot Springs 194 La Push 150 accommodations 193 food festivals 344 Leavenworth 195 climate 193 Crab & Seafood Festival hotels 24 305 McKenzie Region 270-1 food 193 Feast Portland 229 Mt Baker 166 highlights 194, I 194 Newport Seafood & Wine Mt Hood 287-8 Ilwaco 159-60 travel seasons 193 Festival 318 Mt Rainier National Park insurance 469 electricity 461 Oregon Truffle Festival 181-3, 184 Ellensburg 200-2 268 Mt St Helens 188, 190 internet resources 21, 23, 63 142 Razor Clam Festival 153 North Cascades National emergencies 21 Strawberry Festival 268 Park 169 itineraries 33-6, 33, 34, , Empire Builder 197 Walla Walla Sweet Onion North Coast Trail 431 35 48 362 Festival 209 Olympic Discovery British Columbia 50, 48 environmental issues 142, Forks 148-9 Trail 140 Cascade Drive 49, 48 282, 457-8 Fossil 372 Olympic National Park Highway 101 Oregon Eugene 266-70 Fremont Public 142, 143, 146, 147 Coast 45-6, 48 events, see festivals & Sculptures 76 Ozette 152 Lewis & Clark Trail 47, 48 events Fremont Troll 77 Rogue River Trail 351 Olympic Peninsula 49- exchange rates 21 Future of Flight Aviation Stehekin 177 50, 48 Center & Boeing Trail 426 Oregon Cascades Tour 104 West Coast Trail 423 46-7, F 48 farm-to-table dining 41 Wild Pacific Trail 424 Pacific Northwest 33, 33 Willamette Pass 301 ferries 467, 468 G San Juan Islands 34, 34 Ferris wheels 73 galleries, see museums & historic trails 437-8, 441-2, Seattle 35, 35 galleries 438 festivals & events 30-2, Washington 35, 35 see also beer festivals, 434 historical reserves & sites, food festivals, music gardens, see parks & see also national parks festivals gardens & reserves J Columbia Hills Historical Jacksonville 340-1 Bumbershoot 11, 32, 11 Gassy Jack Statue 382 State Park 282 Chemainus Theatre gay travelers 463 Jimi Hendrix Statue 73 Festival 419 Portland 250 Ebey’s Landing National John Day 368-9 Historical Reserve 118 Forever Twilight Seattle 81, 92 John Day Fossil Beds Historic Festival 149 Vancouver 399, 400 National Monument 17, Site 161 Mt Baker Legendary geology 453 370-1, 17 Banked Slalom 165 Kam Wah Chung State Joseph 362-4 Gibsons 405-6 Heritage Site 368 Omak Stampede 219 Gold Beach 329-31 Lewis & Clark National Oregon Shakespeare gold rush 441 Historical Park 304 K Festival 14, 30-2, Gorge Amphitheater 202 San Juan Island National Kalaloch 150-1 335, 14 Grand Coulee Dam 217 Historical Park 120 339 474 kayaking 57-8 LGBT+ travelers 463 Mt Rainier area 180-6 History Museum of Hood Bellingham 107 Portland 250 Mt Rainier National Park 9, River County 278 North Pender 433 Seattle 81, 92 180, 182, 9 HR MacMillan Space Portland 227 Vancouver 399, 400 Mt St Helens 14, 188-91, Centre 384 Powell River 407 lighthouses 155, 160, 320, 192, 189, 14 Island County Historical Society Museum 117 San Juan Islands 120, 324, 328 Mt Vernon 115-16 59 It’s a Burl Gallery 343 INDEX INDEX Seattle 79, 80 Lincoln City 315-16 multiculturalism 446 literature 449-50 Multnomah Falls 273, Jacklin Collection Ucluelet 424 Museum 211 live music 28, see also 277, 10 Vancouver 385 Jordan Schnitzer music festivals Municipal Elevator 253 K-M Kerouac, Jack 174 Museum of Art 211, 267  local transportation 470 museums & galleries Kettle Falls 220 Klamath County Museum lodges 24 kiteboarding 58 Audain Art Museum 401 353 Long Beach 157-9 Klamath Falls 352-4 BC Sports Hall of Fame & Klondike Gold Rush Long Beach Peninsula Museum 385 Klamath Basin National National Historical 156-60 Beaty Biodiversity Wildlife Refuges 354, 27 Park 78 Lopez Island 128-30 Museum 384 Lewis & Clark Loupe 22 Burke Museum 78-9 Interpretive Center 160 L Lower Deschutes River Center for Contemporary Museum 148 La Conner 113-15 290-1 Art & Culture 223-4 Maritime Centre 419 La Grande 360-1 Lower Skagit River Valley Chihuly Garden & Maryhill Museum of La Push 149-50 113-16 Glass 72 Art 284 lakes Lummi Island 111-12 Clymer Museum 201 Miniature World 409 Baker Lake 167 Lynden 110 Columbia Gorge Museum of Anthropology Discovery Center 281-2 Diablo Lake 168, 27 382-4 Columbia Gorge 329 Museum of Flight 73-6 M Interpretive Center 276 Hall Lake 325 Museum of Glass 103-4 Malheur National Wildlife Columbia River Maritime Museum of History & 143 Refuge 374-5 Museum 304-5 Industry 78 Lake Quinault 146 Manzanita 312-13 Craigdarroch Castle Museum of Natural & Lake Shannon 167 marijuana 462-3 408-9 Cultural History 267 Lake Union 78 Marine Building 379 Cumberland Museum 427 Museum of Northwest Lake Wenatchee 199 Marys Peak 265 Douglas County Museum Art 114 Lost Lake 287 Maupin 290-1 346 Museum of Pop 301 Mayne Island 433-4 Eagle Aerie Gallery 425 Culture 72 Ross Lake 168-9 Mazama 171-2 Eugene Science Center Museum of the Oregon Waldo Lake 300-1 McKenzie region 270-1 267 Territory 253 Lakeview 375-6 McMinnville 259-62 Evergreen Aviation & Museum of Vancouver Space Museum 259 Langley 118 Medford 338-40 384 Favell Museum of Langlois 329 Methow Valley 171-6 Nanaimo Museum 420 Western Art & Indian National Historic Oregon Langston Hughes Metolius River 291-2 Artifacts 353 Performing Arts microbreweries 11, 26, 11 Trail Interpretive Fort Dalles Museum 282 Center 367 Center 78 mobile phones 20, 460 National National Neon Sign language 20, 242 Moclips 153 Historic Site 385 Museum 282 laundries 463 money 20, 21, 461 Fort Walla Walla Museum Nordic Museum 72 Leavenworth 195-8 motels 24 207 legal matters 462-3 North Cascade motorcycle travel 466, Four Rivers Cultural Smokejumper Base Lemolo Lake 346 469-70 Center 372 172 lesbian travelers 463 mountain biking 53-4 Frye Art Museum 73 Northwest African Portland 250 Bend 295 Gibsons Public Art American Museum 78 Seattle 81, 92 Chelan 178 Gallery 405-6 Northwest Museum of Vancouver 399, 400 Leavenworth 196 Gilbert House Children’s Arts & Culture 212 Museum 263 Leslie Gulch 374 Mt Hood 288, 59 Olympic Sculpture Grant County Ranch & Lewis & Clark expedition mountaineering, see Park 72 Rodeo Museum 368 437-8, 438 climbing Orcas Island Historical Hallie Ford Museum of Lewis & Clark Discovery Mt Adams 191-2 Museum 125 Art 262 Trail 158 Mt Angel 264 Oregon Historical Society Hands On Children’s 223 Lewis & Clark Trail 47, 48 Mt Baker area 165-7 Museum 133 Oregon Museum of Mt Hood 17, 287-90, 17, 59 Hatfield Marine Science Science & Industry Mt Jefferson 291-2 Center 318 224, 62 Map Pages 000 Mt Mazama 347 Henry Art Gallery 79 Pearson Air Museum 161 Photo Pages 000 Mt Olympus 141 Museum 294 Pemberton Museum 404 475 Pioneer Museum 314 Bumbershoot 11, 32, 11 North 432 262-3 Polygon Gallery 384-5 Centrum 137 North Umpqua River 344-6 441-2, 438 Port Angeles Fine Arts Fall Festival 265 northwestern Washington Oregon Vortex 352 Center 140 Oregon Bach Festival 268 65, 105-18, 106 Oregon wine country 19, Portland Art Museum Oregon Coast Music accommodations 105 256-67, 254-5, 19 223 Festival 325 climate 105 Oysterville 156-7

Portland Children’s Pickathon 229 food 105 Ozette 151 INDEX Museum 225 Vancouver International highlights 106, 106 REACH Museum 206 Jazz Festival 389 travel seasons 105 Roedde House Museum Volume Music P M-P  379 Festival 213 Pacific banana slug 456 Royal BC Museum 409 Waterfront Blues Festival O Pacific National Exhibition San Juan Islands 229 Oak Harbor 116-17 31-2 Museum of Art 120 mustangs 377 Ocean Shores 152-4 Pacific Rim National Park Schneider Museum of Okanogan River Valley Reserve 423 Art 335 218-19 Painted Hills Unit 370 Science World 384 N Olympia 133-5 Paradise 181 Nahcotta 156-7 Scienceworks 335 Olympic Club Hotel 134 parks & gardens Nanaimo 420-2 Seattle Art Museum 73 Olympic National Park 16, Ahousat 426 Nanaimo Bar 421 Seattle Asian Art 142-7, 144, 16 Arbutus Greenway 382 Museum 73 national parks & reserves Olympic Peninsula 65, Azalea Park 331 52, see also historical Shafer Museum 172 131-51, Bloedel Conservatory 382 reserves & sites, state & 132 Region Museum provincial parks accommodations 131 Bush’s Pasture Park 263 417 Crater Lake National climate 131 Butchart Gardens South Slough National Park 12, 347-9, 348, 13 food 131 418, 36 Estuarine Research 361 highlights 132, 132 Suspension Reserve 326 Bridge Park 384 John Day Fossil Beds travel seasons 131 SPARK Museum of Columbia Park 206 Electrical Invention 107 National Monument 17, Olympic Peninsula Loop 370-1, Discovery Park 72 Squamish Lil’wat Cultural 17 49-50, 48 Centre 402 Lake Roosevelt National Ontario 371-2 Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Recreation Area 218 opening hours 21 Chinese Garden & Tamástslikt Cultural Park 382 Institute 358 Mt Rainier National Park orcas 11, 121, 11 9, 180, , Forest Park 224 Thomas Condon 182 9 Orcas Island 125-8 Mt St Helens 14, 188-91, 77 Paleontology Center Oregon Cascades 67, 285- 192, Hoyt 225 370 189, 14 301, 286 Newberry National International Rose Test Tillamook Forest Center accommodations 285 314 Volcanic Monument 294 Garden 225 climate 285 Tillamook Naval Air North Cascades National Japanese Garden 224 food 285 Museum 314 Park 168-71, 170-1, 29 Umpqua Discovery Olympic National Park highlights 286, 286 224 Center 324 16, 142-7, 144, 16 travel seasons 285 Lithia Park 335 Vancouver Art Gallery Oregon Dunes National Oregon Cascades Scenic Meares Island 425 379 Recreation Area 323-4 Byway 46-7, 48, 46 Milner Gardens & Vancouver Police Pacific Rim National Park Oregon Caves 343 Woodland 422 Museum & Archives Reserve 423 Oregon Caves National Oregon Garden 262 382 Portland Audubon Monument 343-4 Oregon Trail Interpretive Whale Museum 120 Society 225 Oregon City 253 Park 360 Whale, Sealife & Shark Turtleback Mountain Oregon Coast 16, 67, 302- Peavy Arboretum 265 Museum 317 Preserve 125 32, 303, 309, 322, 16 Percival Landing Park 133 Whatcom Museum of Native American culture 12, accommodations 302 Priest Point Park 133 History & Art 107 363, 450-1, 2, 12 climate 302 Riverfront Park 212 Whistler Museum & Native American history food 302 Roozengaarde Display Archives 401 436-7, 442-3 highlights 303, 303 Garden 113-14 Willamette Heritage Neah Bay 147-8 travel seasons 302 Shark Reef Park 129 Center 263 Nehalem 313 Oregon Dunes National 223 World Kite Museum & Newberg 256-9 Hall of Fame 157 Recreation Area 323-4 Stanley Park 379 Newport 317-19 Yakima Valley Museum Oregon Museum of Science Tom McCall Waterfront 203 North Bend 324-5 & Industry 224, 62 Park 223 North Cascades Highway mushrooms 43, 42 Oregon Pacific Coast VanDusen Botanical 28, 27 Passport 307 Garden 382 music 11, 97, 98, 447-8 North Cascades National Oregon Shakespeare 73 music festivals 11 Park 168-71, 170-1, 29 Festival 14, 30-2, 335, 14 Washington Park 224-5 Britt Festival 340 476 parks & gardens continued tourist information 250 scenery 28 Sidney 416-17 Washington Park tours 227-8 scenic drives, see also Sisters 292-4 Arboretum 78 travel seasons 221 road trips skiing 19, 28, 56, 19, 56 Waterfront Park 195 travel to/from 250-1 Blitzen Valley 375 49 Degrees North 219 Whatcom Falls Park 107 travel within 251 Cascade Loop 198 Anthony Lakes Mountain Yakima Area Arboretum Portland Building 223 Chuckanut Dr 109 Resort 367

INDEX INDEX 203 postal services 463 Elkhorn Drive Scenic Cat Ski Mt Bailey 345 Yakima Greenway 203 Powell River 406-7 Byway 366 Crystal Mountain Resort Parksville 422-3 Prospect 351-2 Harts Pass 172 186-7 Pemberton 404 Hells Canyon Scenic Hurricane Ridge 143 P- public holidays 463  Pendleton 358-60 Byway 364 S Pullman 211 Leavenworth 195-6  pets 464 Mt Baker Scenic Byway Lost Lake 402 165 Pike Place Market 15, 73, 15 Methow Valley 173 Pioneer Square Historical Q North Cascades Highway Mission Ridge 199 Qualicum 422-3 28, District 77-8 27 Mt Ashland Ski Resort 335 Rim Drive 348 Pittock Mansion 225 Mt Bachelor Ski Resort planning, see also R Ruby Beach 151 295 individual regions radio 463 Sherman Pass Scenic Mt Baker Ski Area 165 Byway 220 accommodations 24-5 rafting Mt Hood 287 Three Capes 314 budgeting 20-1 John Day River 371 Mt Spokane Ski & calendar of events 30-2 Lower Deschutes River Sea to Sky Highway 50, 48 Snowboard Park 213 children, travel with 61-3 290 Seabrook 153 Mt Washington Alpine drinking 37-44 McKenzie River 271 31-2 Resort 428 food 37-44 Washington Cascades 167 Sealth, Chief 442 Sisters 292 internet resources 20-1 Wenatchee River 196 Seaside 308-10 Summit at Snoqualmie itineraries 33-6 Seattle 64, 70-102, 71, 104 Pacific Northwest basics 350 74-5, 82-3, 103 Vancouver 385 20-1 razor clams 305 accessible travel 101 Washington 187 Pacific Northwest regions Reedsport 324 accommodations 70, Whistler 403 64-8 religion 446 82-3 Ski Area 184 repeat visitors 22-3 renewable energy 457-8 activities 79 travel seasons 20-1, 30-2 rental accommodations 24 climate 70 293, 5 population 446 reserves, see national parks courses 80 smoking 463 Port Angeles 139-42 & reserves drinking 91-6 Snoqualmie Valley 104 Port Hardy 430-1 resorts 24 emergency services 101 snowboarding 56, see also Port Orford 328-9 riptides 462 entertainment 96-7 skiing snowshoeing 56-7, see also Port Townsend 136-9, 36 road trips 28-9, 45-50, 48, festivals & events 81 skiing Portland 9, 66, 221-51, 222, see also scenic drives food 70, 85-91, 37, 41, 42 Roberts Creek 408 Sooke 417-18 226-7, 230-1, 234-5, highlights 71, 71 rock climbing 52-3, 225, South Pender Island 432 8-9, 40 itineraries 35, 277, 293 35 Southern Gulf Islands 431-4 accessible travel 250 LGBT+ travelers 81, 92 rodeos 201, 358, 368 Southern Oregon 68, 333- accommodations 221, neighborhoods 82-3 229-35 Rogue River 349-52 54, 334 nightlife 91-6 activities 225-7 Roseburg 346-7 accommodations 333 shopping 97-101 climate 221 climate 333 sights 72-9 drinking 243-6 food 333 S tourist information 101 entertainment 246-8 highlights 334, 334 416-17 tours 80 festivals & events 229 travel seasons 333 safety 462, 463 travel seasons 70 food 221, 236-43, Space Needle 12, 72, 12 42 sailing 80 travel to/from 101-2 Spokane 212-17, 214 highlights 222, 222 sake 260 travel within 102 sports 445 history 223 Salem 262-5 Seattle Pride 81 internet access 250 salmon 457 Spring Whale-Watching Seattle Sound 447-8 Week 30-2 LGBT+ travelers 250 Salmon Street Springs Seaview 157-9 Fountain 223 Stanley Park 379, 2 nightlife 243-6 407 Salt Spring Island 431-2 state & provincial parks 52, shopping 248-50 senior travelers 461 San Juan Island 119-25, see also national parks sights 223-5 Shady Cove 351 & reserves 122-3 224 San Juan Islands 15, 34, 65, 276-7 106, 118-30, 34, 106, 130 Map Pages 000 122-3, 15, 59 shopping 29, see also Photo Pages individual locations 326 000 Sauvie Island 247 477 State Park Stuart Island 128 drinking 395-7 Orcas Island 125 328 128 entertainment 397-8 San Juan Islands 121 Cape Disappointment Sunshine Coast 405-8 festivals & events 389 Sidney 416 State Park 159-60 surfing 22-3, 425 food 378, 391-5 Wheeler 313 Cape Scott Provincial Suzzallo Library 79 highlights 380-1, Whidbey Island 116-18 Park 431 380-1 internet access 399 Whistler 19, 68, 380-1, 401- Cape Sebastian State 5, 380-1, 19 INDEX Park 330 T LGBT+ travelers 399, 400 white-water rafting Catherine Creek State Tacoma 103-4 57-8 Park 360 television 448-9 nightlife 395-7

wildlife 26, ,  S-Z Darlingtonia State The Dalles 281-3 shopping 398-9 11 27 wildlife reserves Natural Site 321-2 sights 379-85 Deception Pass State 294 tourist information 399 Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuges Park 116 tide pools 454 tours 389 354, 27 Deschutes River State Tillamook 314-15 travel seasons 378 Recreation Area 284 Little Pend Oreille Timberline Lodge 287, 17 travel to/from 399-400 310 National Wildlife time 463 travel within 400-1 Refuge 219 Falls Provincial Park Vancouver (WA) 160-2 429 tipping 463-4 Oaks Bottom Wildlife Vancouver Island 18, 68, Tofino 425-7, 2, 25 Refuge 224 State 408-31, 380-1, 410-11, Park 218-19 Toledo 319 Sauvie Island Wildlife 18, 36 Area 247 State Park Toppenish 204 Vashon Island 102-3 305 totem poles 12, 147, 382, Upper Skagit vegans 43 Area 167 State Park 418, 436, 2, 12 vegetarians 43 Wildlife Images 136-7 tourist information 464 Rehabilitation & Leadbetter Point State Victoria 408-16, 414, 18 train travel 197, 466, 470 Education Center Park Natural Area 156 visas 20, 464 Eagle Cap Excursion 341-2 Lime Kiln Point State Train 361 Wild Rogue Wilderness 350 Park 119-20 Sumpter Valley Railroad W Willamette Pass 300-1 Moran State Park 125 366 128 66, 252- Newcastle Island Marine Tramway Walla Walla 19, 207-11 71, 254-5 Provincial Park 420 364 Wallowa Lake 364 accommodations 252 Falls State travel to/from the Pacific Wallowa Mountains 361-2 Park 208 Northwest 465-6 climate 252 walking, see hiking Port Orford Heads State travel within the Pacific food 252 Park 328 Northwest 21, 466-70 Washington Cascades 65, highlights 254-5, 254-5 Raft Cove Provincial trees 455-6 163-92, 164, 56 travel seasons 252 Park 431 trekking, see hiking accommodations 163 windsurfing 58 212 Tri-Cities 206-7 climate 163 wine 26, 40, 258, see also Samuel H Boardman truffles 38-44 food 163 wineries State Park 331 Twilight 149 highlights 164, 164 winemakers 23 Twisp 175-6 travel seasons 163 wineries 19, 66, 19, see also 326 Washington coast 65, 132, Oregon wine country, 262 151-62, 132 Walla Walla Smith Rock State Park U Chelan wine country 293, 5 Ucluelet 424-5 133 179 Sooke Potholes Union Creek 351-2 country, Yakima Valley wine Provincial Park 417 University of Oregon 267 see Walla Walla country 204, 205 Upper Skagit River Valley watercraft 80 Winthrop 172-5 128-9 167-8 waterfalls 104, 212, 277, Succor Creek State 314, 344, 10 Natural Area 374 Y V weather 20, see also Yachats 319-21 TouVelle State Park 338 individual regions vacations 463 Yakima 202-4 Wallowa Lake State websites, see internet Vancouver (BC) 10, 68, Yakima Valley 200-4 Park 364 resources 378-401, 380-1, 383, Yakima Valley Wine Country Yaquina Bay State Wedding Rocks 152 Park 318 386-7, 10 204, 205 Wenatchee 199-200 Steamboat 344-5 accessible travel 399 Western Gorge 273 Steens Mountain 376-7 accommodations 378, 389-91 Westport 154-6 Z Stehekin 176-8 zoos 76, 225, 346, 409, see activities 385-9 whale-watching 60 Strawberry Mountain also wildlife reserves Depoe Bay 317 Wilderness 369 climate 378 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 478

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

MaSovaida Morgan Portland, Willamette Valley MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia story­teller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven conti- nents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Brendan Sainsbury Whistler & the Sunshine Coast, Vancouver Island, Southern Gulf Islands Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru. When not scribbling research notes, Brendan likes partaking in ridiculous ‘endurance’ races, strumming old Clash songs on the guitar, and experiencing the pain and occasional pleasures of following Southampton Football Club. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Becky Ohlsen Washington Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet. When she’s not covering ground for Lonely Planet, Becky is working on a book about motorcycles and the paradoxical appeal of risk.

Robert Balkovich Seattle Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on.

Celeste Brash Oregon Like many California natives, Celeste now lives in Portland, Oregon. She arrived however after 15 years in French Polynesia, a year and a half in Southeast Asia and a stint teaching English as a second language (in an Amer- ican accent) in Brighton, England – among other things. She’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls and is represented by the Donald Maass Agency, New York. Celeste also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

John Lee Vancouver Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, John grew up in the lengthy shadow of London, finding as many opportunities as possible to gorge on the capital’s rich diet of museums and galleries. Slowly succumbing to the lure of overseas exotica, he arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along with stints living in Tokyo and Montreal, before he returned to British Columbia to become a full-time freelance writer in 1999. Now living in Vancouver, John specializes in travel writing and has contributed to more than 150 different publications.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – February 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 364 3 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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