Why visit 16-PAGE GUIDE

INSIDE THIS EDITION 28 ANCIENT WORLDS The past casts a powerful shadow over 's most turbulent county

31 TAKING A HIKE Northumberland boasts some of the best walking country in England

32 NORTHERN STRONGHOLDS Few places sum up England's past so evocatively as its

37 DOGGY DAYS OUT Northumberland has a rich heritage you can enjoy with your dog

38 NATURE'S BEST THERAPY The county's golden beaches make walking by the sea an absolute joy 

Out & About 27 Why visit Northumberland Ancient worlds The past casts a powerful shadow over England’s most turbulent county

ew counties have had such a tumultuous past as Northumberland and it boasts an extremely rich heritage. Structures indicate the region was inhabited Fduring the Stone Age and artefacts from the Bronze and Iron Ages have also been found. The Romans left a more obvious mark in Hadrian’s Wall but it was Anglian invaders that led to the creation of Northumbria. The kingdoms of Bernica and Deira became one under Ӕthelfrith and, when Athelstan was crowned king, Northumbria became part of England. The Normans also made their presence felt, as they rebuilt many of the monasteries, founded abbeys and added castles (mainly defensive structures against the Scots) and it’s these that make the county so interesting. When the countries united under James VI, many of the castles became less important and their decline was inevitable. It’s these ruins that bring the countryside alive. The county also played its part in the Industrial Revolution producing the that helped power the growth of the British Empire around the world.

28 DogFriendly ALNMOUTH The centre of Northumberland under the A charming village on the coast, Alnmouth Normans, Alnwick remains its beating heart. was an important grain port until a It’s surrounded by picturesque countryside, hurricane altered the course of river is within easy reach of the coast and boasts in 1806 and stranded the harbour. Its many architectural delights. It was even gaily painted houses ensure it remains a voted the best place to live in the UK. Its popular destination and you’ll find several attractive cobbled streets are lined with dog-friendly pubs, cafés and restaurants independent shops. Highlights include the particularly along Northumberland Street dog-friendly Barter Books and its café. try The Schooner and The Sun Inn or, if www.visitalnwick.org.uk you’re a real foodie, Hooked – dogs are WALK Dogs are prohibited from the welcome in a separate dining area. and Hulne Park but can use the pastures WALK Enjoy the golden sands of the beach. STAY Pegasus Cottage, West End, , STAY Waterside View Cottage, Nr Alnmouth Alnwick NE66 3TS Northumberland NE66 3QL www.gracedarlingholidays.com www.ownersdirect.co.uk EAT Blink Bonny, Christon Bank, Alnwick EAT The Village Tearooms, 58 Northumberland NE66 3ES Northumberland Street, Alnmouth NE66 2RS

AMBLE CRASTER Originally a small fishing port, Amble thrived The undoubted home of the kipper, during the 19th century when it shipped Craster may lack amenities but the rugged coal from its newly constructed harbour. coastline is popular with walkers. And, if Now it's more important as the southern you fancy tasting the local delicacy, you can gateway of the purchase kippers from the smokehouse, AONB. Launched this spring, Amble Harbour L Robson & Sons. If you fancy a snack, The Village boasts a seafood centre and 15 retail Pipers Pitch serves a kipper in a bun. The pods. The coastline is rich in wildlife so you Mick Oxley Gallery is also worth a visit. don't miss one of Dave Gray’s dog-friendly www.visitcraster.org.uk Puffin Cruises. And don’t leave without WALK Although the most obvious trying a Spurelli ice-cream. destination is , others WALK Head north along the river to include Cullernose Point via Howick and the Warkworth or south past the harbour until secret cove of Rumbling Kern you reach Hauxley STAY Artist’s Cottage, Craster STAY Walkmill Campsite, Guyzance NE65 www.crabtreeandcrabtree.com 9AJ EAT The Shoreline Café, 1 Church Street, EAT The Wellwood Arms, High Street, Amble Craster NE66 3TH 

DogFriendly 29 Why visit Northumberland

CORBRIDGE Once the most northerly settlement in Often called the capital of Coquetdale, Situated in the Tyne Valley, Hexham holds the Roman empire, supplied Rothbury is ideally placed if you’re visiting the title of England’s favourite market town. Hadrian’s Wall and boasts many Northumberland, because it’s just 30 Its winding streets boast many architectural architectural delights from that period, plus minutes from the coast, five minutes from delights including Hexham Abbey, the Old a Saxon church and a 17th-century bridge. the Simonside Hills and within easy reach of Gaol and the Moot Hall. You’ll find market Corbridge has been popular with shoppers the National Park. It boasts a large number stalls in the Shambles and a full market since the 19th century and has an eclectic of boutiques, shops and galleries – several every Tuesday and Saturday. There’s a wide mix of independents, many dog-friendly – including Pots & Paws, Coquetdale Arts range of independent shops and several Activ Cycles (with a café), The Balman Centre and The Congregational Art such as The Vintage Emporium, The Peter Gallery (Duck House Café), Craftworks, Re Gallery & Café welcome dogs. Flanagan Gallery, The Small World Café, The (homewares) and Retriques. WALK This circular route takes in many of Garden Coffee House and Shire Gate Café WALK images.visitnorthumberland.com/ the local sights www.northof are dog-friendly. routes/Corbridge_and_Aydon_Castle.pdf thetyne.co.uk/RothburyWalk.html WALK Try the Tyne Green Trail at STAY The Hayes, Newcastle Rd, Corbridge STAY Tomlinsons Café Bunkhouse, Bridge www.visithexham.net/walks.htm NE45 5LP www.hayes-corbridge.co.uk Street, Rothbury NE65 7SF STAY Rosemary Cottage, Hexham NE46 3EL EAT Watling Coffee House, 11 Watling EAT The Railway Hotel, Bridge Street, EAT Holly Bush Inn, The Terrace, Hexham Street, Corbridge NE45 5AG Rothbury NE65 7SE Northumberland NE48 1PW

BLANCHLAND SEAHOUSES LOW NEWTON BY THE SEA Set beside the river Derwent, Blanchland is Seahouses may be one of Northumberland’s One of the most attractive villages on the considered one of the prettiest villages in most popular destinations, but it was quite Northumberland coast, Low Newton by the North Pennines AONB. It was bought insignificant until the harbour was created the Sea boasts an open-ended square of by Nathaniel Lord Crewe in 1708 and, on in 1889. It’s now a lively resort, with a wide cream-washed cottages, overlooking a his death, became part of a charitable trust. variety of shops, amusements and cafés. picturesque sandy beach. At its heart is The Most of the properties were built during The , with their populations Ship Inn which, with its microbrewery, has the 18th century using stone from the of seabirds, seals and whales, are a popular become a popular destination and is well abbey (set up by white-robed Canons of attraction – dogs are welcome on the boats worth a visit. There’s only a small car park Premontre in the 1160s) and the whole area operated by Golden Gate, Hanvey’s and Billy but many people use the lane is now protected by a conservation order. Shiel’s, but are prohibited from landing on WALK The coastline between Low Newton WALK There are numerous routes locally any but Longstone Island and Craster is amazing and includes them including several based on packhorse trails WALK Head south until you reach Bay inspiring ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle www.explorenorthpennines.org.uk/ STAY Wyndgrove House, 156 Main Street, STAY The Joiners Arms, High Newton-by- blanchland Seahouses NE68 7UA the-Sea NE66 3EA STAY Lord Crewe Arms, The Square, www.wyndgrovehouse.co.uk www.joiners-arms.com Blanchland, Consett DH8 9SP EAT Pinnacles, 17 Main Street, Seahouses EAT The Ship Inn, Low Newton-by-the-Sea,

PIC S© SHUTTERSTOCK.COM S© PIC www.lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk NE68 7RE www.pinnaclesfishandchips. NE66 3EL www.shipinnnewton.co.uk

30 DogFriendly Taking a hike! Northumberland boasts some of the best walking country in England

orthumberland National www.visitkielder.com Park covers a large WALK The Lakeside Way follows LONG-DISTANCE PATHWAYS Nswathe of the county the shoreline – download a HADRIAN’S WALL PATH downloaded from and is one of England’s least trails guide from the website Running between Wallsend www.yournorthumberland. populated areas. It’s popular STAY There are camping and and Bowness-on-Solway, co.uk or you can order with walkers who enjoy caravan sites in the park or you Hadrian’s Wall Path is a guide from www. exploring Hadrian's Wall, the can stay in a luxury lodge popular with walkers northumberland.gov.uk Cheviots and . EAT There are cafés at Tower because, although it can Knowe and Kielder Castle visitor be quite muddy, it isn’t that ST OSWALD’S WAY ALLEN BANKS centres and dogs are welcome strenuous and can be split St Oswald’s Way links places One of the largest areas of in the bar at The Boat Inn, into stages. However, there associated with the 7th- ancient woodland in the county, Leaplish Waterside Park are grazing animals so a lead century king after whom Allen Banks includes the is essential. Stiles may also it was named. Starting at 101-acre Stawardpeel Site of THE CHEVIOT HILLS cause a problem. Although , it heads along the Special Scientific Interest and A picturesque range of hills, the there’s a bus service, it only coast via , Craster boasts miles of waymarked Cheviots straddle the border. operates between April and Warkworth then bears walks you can enjoy. There's a You’ll find downloadable and September. One of the west through Rothbury and pay and display car park – free if walking routes at most picturesque sections is finishes in Heavenfield, an you’re a National Trust member. www.cheviotwalks.org between Housesteads and overall distance of 97 miles. Allen Banks and Staward Gorge, If you fancy getting away from Gilsland – there are car parks www.stoswaldsway.com Nr Ridley Hall, Bardon Mill, it, visit the College Valley Estate. at both but charges apply. Hexham, Northumberland It’s privately owned and whilst Please read the Countryside ST CUTHBERT’S WAY www.nationaltrust.org.uk walkers are welcome, car entry Code at www.gov.uk Linking Melrose Abbey with WALK You can download routes is strictly limited. Permits cost www.visithadrianswall.co.uk Lindisfarne, St Cuthbert’s Way from the website above £10 from Smiths Gore in Wooler. www.nationaltrail.co.uk/ runs 63 miles through the heart STAY There are three National www.college-valley.co.uk hadrianswallpath of Northumberland. The route Trust properties nearby – WALK Check website above is split into sections and that Peel Bothy, Housesteads Farm STAY There are several holiday THE COAST PATH between Kirk Yetholm and and Springwell Cottage. properties on the estate The Northumberland Coast Wooler is probably the best as it www.nationatrust EAT The Terrace Café, 18 Market Path runs 65 miles through an avoids the tidal causeway holidays.co.uk Place, Wooler NE71 6LQ AONB and has been divided at Holy Island. EAT The Garden Station Café or into six manageable walks, all www.stcuthbertsway.net The Cartsbog Inn at Langley or SIMONSIDE of which can be completed Housesteads visitor centre Studded with ancient in a day. The route is clearly THE PENNINE WAY burial grounds, Bronze signposted and most of it is Running along the backbone KIELDER WATER Age cairns and an Iron Age level with just the occasional of England, The Pennine Way Northern Europe’s largest settlement, the Simonside incline. Circular coastal routes provides 268 miles of the finest artificial lake, Kielder Water is Hills are ideal walking country. start at Alnmouth, Craster, walking including a section surrounded by England’s most Climb Simonside from Low Newton-by-the-Sea, through the Northumberland extensive area of woodland. It’s the archaeological site at Bamburgh and Holy Island. National Park. one of Northumberland’s most Lordenshaws any enjoy learning Interactive maps can be www.pennineway.co.uk popular attractions and boasts more about the past – there’s a hundreds of miles of pathways. car park on the Hexham road.

DogFriendly 31 Why visit Northumberland Northern strongholds Few places sum up the UK’s turbulent past so evocatively

32 DogFriendly orthumberland has more castles than any other county in England – a magnificent legacy of its turbulent past. NAlthough there are more than 70 sites, many have long since disappeared and many others are romantic ruins. A few are still in their prime, having been carefully maintained over the centuries, rebuilt after destruction or carefully renovated after years of decline. is one of the UK’s major attractions and its garden is well worth visiting, whether you’re interested in plants, sculpture or architecture. Sadly, dogs aren’t allowed anywhere on the estate. The best option, if you’re tempted by its many attractions, is a dog-sitter and many people have spoken highly of Happy Hounds at Low Hocket Farm. , also in Alnwick, is equally unwelcoming of dogs which is a great shame. It's still worth considering though, If you do fancy exploring a castle near Alnwick, then especially if you enjoy plain old English eccentricity. It’s privately the ruins at Edlingham (above) are within easy reach of the owned so unlike most stately homes in that the owner, Sir Humphrey village. It’s a picturesque setting and the nearby church is also Wakefield, has let the castle do the talking. And Chillingham’s wild quite interesting. Unlike its neighbours, you can walk your dog cattle, which are rarer than any panda, would scare off any walkers. through the grounds. 

DogFriendly 33 Why visit Northumberland

AYDON CASTLE and courtyard, highlights Almost completely intact, include the Green Man Carving. Castle is one of the finest The guides bring it alive. examples of a 13th-century , Corbridge, English manor house. Defensive Northumberland NE45 5PJ structures where added when www.english-heritage.org.uk the Scots began pillaging south WALK Leave your car in of the border and the property Corbridge and head there CASTLE century. The castle may be quite changed hands several times. across the fields Standing on a ridge above River small in stature but the location Despite being an important images.visitnorthumberland. Tyne, was the is picturesque. It's also worth stronghold, it has plenty of com/routes/Corbridge_and_ home of the Umfravilles until noting that it was the only charm and one can easily Aydon_Castle.pdf it was taken over by the Percy Northumberland castle to imagine living there, making it STAY The Golden Lion, Hill family. Many alterations were resist the Scots . a popular day out with families. Street, Corbridge NE45 5AA made but the main period Prudhoe Castle, Prudhoe, It’s surrounded by picturesque www.goldenlion- of renovation was between Northumberland NE42 6NA countryside just a mile from corbridge.co.uk 1808 and 1817 when the old www.english-heritage.org.uk Corbridge. Alongside the EAT The old orchard makes a dwellings were replaced by a WALK Head through Tyne remains of the house, gardens wonderful picnic area. Georgian mansion – this now Riverside Park until you reach contains the ticket office, a shop Wylam Railway Bridge and exhibitions. Of particular STAY The Black Horse, Red Row, interest are the barbican, the Beamish, Co. Durham DH9 0RW and the remains of www.blackhorsebeamish.co.uk the original Great Hall, which EAT The Boathouse, Station Rd, was replaced in the 15th Wylam NE41 8HR

WARKWORTH CASTLE ring the bell. A ferryman will was first drop you on the other side recorded in a charter of 1157 Warkworth Castle, Warkworth, when it was merely a timber Northumberland NE65 0UJ structure. It was improved www.english-heritage.org.uk by Robert fitz Richard then WALK Enjoy the village strengthened by his descendant between the castle at one end John de Clavering but its most and the church of St Lawrence DUNSTANBURGH CASTLE is from Craster where you’ll famous owners were the Percy at the other, also the black Standing on a remote headland, find a reasonably sized council family who made the most bridge swimming f your dog Dunstanburgh Castle is a car park – dogs must be kept on serious changes in the 19th enjoys the water magnificent site. It was built a lead as animals graze on the century. It was given to the STAY Warkworth House, by the 800 National Trust land. Office of Works by the 9th Duke 16 Bridge Street, Warkworth years ago and was one of the STAY Harbour House, Craster and is now managed by Engish Northumberland NE65 0XB grandest in northern England. www.coastalretreats.co.uk Heritage. Also worth a visit is www.warkworthhouse Dunstanburgh Castle, Craster EAT The Jolly Fisherman, Haven the Hermitage – head along hotel.co.uk Northumberland NE66 3TT Hill, Craster NE66 3TR the river, a lovely walk, until you EAT The Masons Arms, 3 Dial www.english-heritage.org.uk www.thejollyfisherman reach the crossing point and Place, Warkworth NE65 0UR WALK The most enjoyable route craster.co.uk

34 DogFriendly Originally built by Sir Thomas de Lucy in 1350, Langley Castle retains much of its architectural integrity despite changing hands many times over the centuries and becoming a luxury hotel. Langley Castle, Hexham Northumberland it declined rapidly and, after www.langley Once the capital of changing hands several times, castle.com Northumberland, Morpeth was eventually renovated by WALK You can has had a castle since the 11th The Landmark Trust and rented download several century. This Norman structure out as a holiday property. walking routes at was destroyed by King John Morpeth Castle, Morpeth, www.langleycastle.com/ the main building but you but another castle was built Northumberland walks.html can enjoy afternoon tea in the around 1350. Little, apart from www.landmarktrust.org.uk STAY Dogs are welcome in garden if you’re passing and the much-altered gatehouse WALK Head east along the Castle View, a converted guests of the hotel can leave now remains. Although the River Wansbeck until you reach property in the grounds well-behaved dogs in their castle was important during the charming village of Bothal EAT Dogs aren’t allowed in room whilst they eat. the 16th century when it STAY The castle sleeps seven welcomed Margaret Tudor, people and also welcomes dogs sister of Henry VIII and the EAT The Tap & Spile, Manchester widowed Queen of Scotland, Street, Morpeth NE61 1BH

BAMBURGH CASTLE buried – St Aiden’s. It’s a shame that Bamburgh , Bamburgh Castle doesn’t welcome NE69 7DF dogs because it’s one of www.bamburghcastle.com Northumberland’s most WALK Cross the cricket green evocative sights. Few places then head north along the sum up the awesome beach until you reach Stag magnificence of this ancient Rock - return via the sand kingdom so effectively. dunes and The Wynding. Luckily, there’s a pathway, with Alternatively, walk north along interpretation boards, around The Wynding then take the , Garden, a fantasy of ravines the base so everyone can learn bridleway to Budle Bay. Walk CASTLE & GARDENS pinnacles and unusual plants. more about its past. You’ll south and Seahouses is three One of the best days out in Belsay Hall, Castle & Gardens, find thousands of artefacts miles along the coast Northumberland, Belsay Hall Morpeth, Northumberland inside while those who are STAY Glebe House, Radcliffe boasts a tempting range of NE20 0DX less interested can enjoy the Rd, Bamburgh NE69 7AE attractions – a grand castle, a www.english-heritage.org.uk beach, which is popular with www.bamburghglebe.co.uk Jacobean mansion and 30 acres WALK Explore the woodland dog-walkers. Also worth a visit EAT The Victoria Hotel, Front of landscaped grounds. paths around the lake are The Museum Street, Bamburgh NE67 7BP The hall at its heart is an STAY Meldon Park, Morpeth, and the church where she was www.victoriahotel.net  architectural masterpiece and Northumberland NE61 3SW was inspired by the temples www.meldonpark.co.uk of ancient Greece. Explore the EAT Although there’s a tea Pillar Hall and you can’t help but room, dogs are prohibited from admire its stark beauty, which the main building – however, is enhanced by its complete you can use picnic benches lack of contents. You can walk in the grounds. Alternatively, your dog around the estate and there are seats outside The there are plenty of woodland Blacksmiths Coffee Shop in paths you can enjoy but the Belsay and the café at Bolam highlight is probably The Quarry Lake Country Park.

DogFriendly 35 Why visit Northumberland

LINDISFARNE CASTLE designed garden, the lime kilns CASTLE Station and , it's a The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is at Castle Point and the ruins The charming villages of picturesque route that takes 50 one of Northumberland’s most of the monastery. The island is Ford and Etal lie within one – dogs travel free. popular attractions. Records tidal so the opening times vary of Northumberland’s most *Heatherslaw Corn Mill document its habitation since – you can walk, drive or catch a prestigious estates, the home Etal Castle, Cornhill on Tweed the 6th century when it was bus and there’s a car park of the Joicey family since 1908. Northumberland TD12 4TN an important centre of Celtic on the island. The estate has an interesting www.english-heritage.org.uk Christianity – Saint Aiden , Holy Island past and boasts many WALK There are many pathways came from Iona and founded a Northumberland TD15 2SH attractions including its castle. around the estate including monastery in 635AD. A castle www.nationaltrust.org.uk It’s quite small so only worth the Flodden Battlefield Trail – was added in 15 but renovated WALK Most people with dogs visiting if you’re investigating leaflets detailing the routes are by Arts & Crafts architect walk across the causeway then the other highlights – available from the mill shop Edward Lutyens on behalf of a explore the beach *Flodden Battlefield STAY Fenton Hill Farm, Wooler, prominent Edwardian bachelor. STAY Britannia House, Holy interpretation boards explain Northumberland NE71 1JJ There are sheep grazing on the Island TD15 2RX the events of 1513, the last time www.fentonhillfarm.co.uk island so you must your EAT The Crown, Market Place, a British monarch fell in war. EAT There's a choice of cafe's dog on a lead. Other highlights Holy Island TD15 2RU *The Heatherslaw Light Railway including The Lavender include a Gertrude Jekyll- www.holyislandcrown.co.uk Running between Heatherslaw Tearooms at Etal Post Office.

NORHAM CASTLE but was regained by the English BERWICK-UPON-TWEED Berwick-upon-Tweed Castle Standing high above the when he was killed at Flodden. CASTLE & RAMPARTS & Ramparts, Northumberland Tweed, enjoys a Norham Castle, Norham Lying within vigorously disputed TD15 1DF commanding position and was Northumberland TD15 2JY border country, www.english-heritage.org.uk one of the border’s strongest www.english-heritage.org.uk was once one of the most WALK You can walk around strongholds. It was built on the WALK Visit the church then important strongholds in the Berwick in one hour – it’s well- orders of Ranulf Flambard, the head east along the river to British Isles and changed hands signed with boards explaining Bishop of Durham and, although Horncliffe and, a mile beyond, several times. It sustained the history of The Elizabethan attacked repeatedly, wasn’t the Union Suspension Bridge substantial damage but was Walls – the views of the river captured until 1136 when David or, westerly until you reach the rendered almost obsolete when Tweed, the coast and Berwick I of Scotland invaded. Over the River Till. ramparts were built during the are spectacular. You can also centuries it entertained King STAY The Masons Arms, 16 West 16th century. The castle declined explore the barracks, John, William the Lion and Street, Norham TD15 2LB and large parts of the structure quay and lighthouse. Edward I. also www.themasonsarms were used as a quarry. Now very STAY Tweed Cottage, Berwick, spent nearly a year laying siege. norham.co.uk little remains bar the White Wall Northumberland TD15 1TE It came under attack during EAT The Victoria Hotel, and the Breakneck Stair. The www.borderholidayhomes.co.uk the and was 3 Castle Street, Norham, Lowry Trail shows many of EAT The Albion Inn, Main Street, also battered by the artillery of Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 2LQ the sites he painted when Spittal, Berwick-upon-Tweed James VI. The castle surrendered www.victoriahotelnorham.co.uk visiting the region. TD15 1QY

36 DogFriendly Doggy days out Northumberland has a rich heritage you can enjoy with your dog PAXTON HOUSE A stylish Palladian house with original interiors and Chippendale furniture, it has 80 acres of landscaped grounds, picturesque river walks and a tearoom. Adult, £5. Paxton House, Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 1SZ www.paxtonhouse.co.uk

NORTHUMBERLANDIA WALLINGTON A unique piece of art, Northumberlandia, Sir Charles Philips Trevelyan was a man of The inspirational home of Lord Armstrong, was created using 1.5 million tonnes of spoil contradictions – an aristocrat who served Cragside, was the first property to be lit by from the coal mine. She reclines gracefully in a Labour government. Wallington has a hydroelectricity and contains an eclectic with peaks in the most obvious places. wide variety of antiques, treasures and pre- mix of artefacts. The house is surrounded The sweeping pathways draw you around Raphaelite paintings. Dogs are welcome in by 1,000 acres of grounds that boast an revealing panoramic views. Entry is free. the grounds – use leads around animals. amazing plant collection and 30 miles of Northumberlandia, Fisher Lane, Walking routes available. Adult, £12.60. pathways, plus a café. Entry prices vary. Cramlington NE23 8AU Wallington, Nr Cambo, Morpeth NE61 4AR Cragside, Rothbury NE56 7PX www.northumberlandia.com www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.nationaltrust.org.uk

SEATON DELAVEL PRESTON TOWER One of the architect Sir John Vanbrugh’s An architectural gem, Preston Tower’s guard After years of neglect, Brinkburn Priory smallest country houses, Seaton Delaval room, prison and living areas show what was renovated sensitively in the 1800s and is the best surviving example of English life might have been like in the 1390s. The stands as one of the finest examples of early Baroque architecture. The Central Hall’s views from the tower are wonderful so it's Gothic architecture in Northumberland. emptiness merely emphasises its grandeur. worth the climb. You can walk your dog in Parts of the monastic buildings were Dogs on leads – you can download routes the grounds . Adult, £2 – payment via incorporated into the 16th-century from the website. Adult, £6. an honesty box. manor house. Adult, £3.90. Seaton Delaval, The Avenue, Preston Tower, Chathill NE67 5DH Brinkburn Priory, Longframlington NE65 8AR NE26 4QR www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.prestontower.co.uk www.english-heritage.org.uk

DogFriendly 37 Why visit Northumberland

Nature’sbest therapy Walking beside the sea stirs our deepest emotions and can prove invaluable in helping us cope with life's many problems

he Northumberland coast is magnificent, its wide sandy seasonal restrictions (May-September) but the most authoritative beaches backed by dunes and punctuated by dramatic is from those who run the Northumberland Coast Area of Trocky headlands that boast some of our country’s most Outstanding Natural Beauty. The AONB covers the 39 miles of spectacular castles. Nothing lifts the spirits as effectively as a stroll coastline between Berwick and the Coquest estuary and there are along the coast – there’s something calming about how the waves only restrictions at Beadnell, Newbiggin-by-the-Sea and Blyth but crash, ceaselessly, at your feet. And, with most of Northumberland’s these are clearly signed. It’s really important that dog-owners treat beaches welcoming dogs all year round, it’s the cheapest therapy the coast with respect as large areas have been designated wildlife available and one you can try with man’s best friend. Search online reserves, so please download the guide below – and you’ll find conflicting advice about which beaches impose www.northumberland.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=6905

ENJOY ROCK POOLS? Boulmer Haven’s a really interesting stretch of coastline, as it’s bordered by a rocky reef that, when exposed at low tide, has deep gullies are rich in wildlife

38 DogFriendly DRURIDGE BAY Stretching seven miles between Cresswell and Amble, Druridge Bay is one of the most spectacular sections of the Northumbrian Coast. The best parking is at Druridge Bay Country Park which is clearly signed just a mile out of Amble. Visit when the tide’s out so you can experiences how extensive it is. There are several nature reserves BLYTH SOUTH BEACH BEACH nearby – Druridge Pools, Cresswell and An ancient settlement, Blyth grew rapidly Cambois, a village just south of the East Chevington but dogs as a port in the 18th century when it Wansbeck estuary, may be quite plain but should be on leads. reaped the rewards of the coal, fishing and it has an extensive beach. And the views, At the northern shipbuilding industries. It may not be an now that has been end of the bay, obvious destination, unless you’re a fan of demolished, are much improved. There’s Amble Links wind turbines because these dominate the a choice of car parks and there aren’t any is one of harbour but it has an extensive beach and restrictions on the beach so dogs can run the cleanest dogs are welcome on all but a short section free. It isn't the most picturesque setting beaches in the in front of the promenade. It’s also the only but the contrast between the beauty of county. A gently beach in the whole of Northumberland the countryside and the remains of heavy sloping mixture with huts you can hire. indsutry make it quite interesting. of sand, shingle and WALK Explore Plessey Woods Country Park WALK There's a pathway along the dunes rocks, it’s nearly a mile in and wander along the River Blyth above the beach length. If you’re shy, avoid the section STAY Seddons Caravan Park, Widdrington STAY The Northumberland Arms, The Peth, around Chibburn because it’s popular Moor, Morpeth NE61 5DR Morpeth NE65 9EE with nudists. www.seddons.net www.northumberlandarms-felton.co.uk At the southern end of the bay, VITINORTHUMBERLAND.COM EAT Master Ridley’s Ice & Coffee EAT Charlton’s Bar, Cambois NE24 1SF Cresswell may be light on amenities Parlour, Ridley Park, Blyth, Northumberland www.charltonsbarcambois.co.uk but it's picturesque and has an enormous beach. Cresswell Ices is open during the summer. WALK It’s wonderful walking country LINDISFARNE pools are exposed at low tide. so you'll find a wide choice of routes – When visiting Lindisfarne, most people l Keel Head Beach is more popular with l The Northumberland Coastal Path drive straight across the causeway and walkers but feels just as isolated. runs between Cresswell and Berwick- explore the castle but completely ignore There’s also a small beach near the upon-Tweed. the island’s sandy coastline. A real shame harbour - it isn’t quite as pretty but, l Druridge Bay Country Park makes because there are three wonderful being on the south side of the island, is a pleasant change from beaches on the north coast. Remember the most accessible the beach – its the island is tidal! WALK Lindisfarne is a national nature freshwater lake l The Links is the most westerly of the reserve so dogs must be under control is surrounded beaches and also the most extensive, at all times – use a lead if you have any by woods and reaching Sands on the mainland concerns about disturbing the wildlife. meadows. when the tide’s out. It’s also the most STAY The Lindisfarne Inn, Beal l Catch a exposed although the dunes provide Northumberland TD15 2DP bus and you some shelter. The views on a clear www.lindisfarneinn.co.uk can walk the day are amazing. EAT Pilgrims, Marygate, Holy Island whole way along l Coves Haven is backed by sand dunes Northumberland TD15 2SJ Druridge Bay and and overlooked by cliffs at one end. Rock www.pilgrimscoffee.com return by public transport – www.arrivabus.co.uk STAY Golden Sands Holiday Park, Beach Rd, Cresswell NE61 5LF www.northumbrianleisure.co.uk EAT There are seats outside the café at Druridge Bay Country Park visitor centre, you could eat a picnic on the beach or try The Drift Café at Cresswell – there's only limited parking nearby. www.northumberland.gov.uk 

DogFriendly 39 Why visit Northumberland

EMBLETON SANDS Owned by the National Trust, Embleton Bay is one of Northumberland’s most spectacular beaches – wide and sandy with picturesque views of Dunstanburgh Castle. WALK After you’ve had a run on the beach, head around the castle then along the coast until you reach the village of Craster STAY Dunbstanburgh Castle Hotel, Embleton, Alnwick N66 3UN www.dunstanburghcastlehotel.co.uk EAT Grey’s Inn, Stanley Terrace, Embleton N66 3UY

SEAHOUSES NORTH BOULMER SEATON SLUICE Although the harbour is Seahouses’ main Although the beach at Boulmer is often Located midway between Whitley Bay and attraction, its beaches are also worth a covered with seaweed and thereby thought Blyth, the village of Seaton Sluice makes visit. Seahouses North Beach is a lovely, less attractive than its neighbours along the an interesting day out. Its natural harbour with miles of golden sand you can enjoy, coast, it feels much more authentic – you helped it prosper during the 18th century and welcomes dogs all year round. South may even see fishing cobbles hauled up the but there are few signs of its industrial past. of Seahouses, Annstead Beach is just as shore. it's also a great deal quieter. The wide sandy beach is rarely crowded picturesque and is backed by dunes that are WALK There are several other beaches and there’s plenty of parking. It's popular managed by Northumberland Wildlife Trust nearby (Longhoughton Steel, Howdiemont with dog walkers all year round. as one of its many nature reserves. Sands and Sugar Sands), but these are WALK Head along the coast until you WALK There’s a choice of pathways covered at high tide – however, their reach St Mary’s lighthouse and enjoy around the 105-acre reserve but seclusion means they’re rarely crowded. You the panoramic views dogs should be on leads. can only reach Sugar Sands by walking from STAY Old Hartley Caravan Club Site, Whitley STAY Bamburgh Castle Inn, Seahouses, Longhoughton past Low Stead Farm. Bay, NE26 4RL Northumberland NE68 7SQ STAY Low Stead Farm and Holiday Cottages, www.ukcampsite.co.uk www.bamburghcastleinn.co.uk Longhoughton, Alnwick NE66 3AL EAT The Beehive, Hartley Lane, Whitley Bay EAT Olde Ship Inn, Seahouses NE68 7RD www.lowsteads.co.uk NE25 0SZ

PIC S© SHUTTERSTOCK.COM S© PIC www.seahouses.co.uk EAT It’s quite isolated so pack a picnic. www.beehiveearsdon.co.uk

40 DogFriendly BEADNELL ALNMOUTH GREENSES HARBOUR A few miles south of Seahouses, Beadnell’s One of the most picturesque expanses Nestling within a sheltered bay, Greenses dune-backed beach remains one of of coast in Northumberland, Alnmouth Harbour was once a thriving fishing port. the most popular in Northumberland, Beach should be one of your first holiday Sadly, the sea fishermen who worked there particularly with water sports enthusiasts destinations. Visit when the tide’s out and and lived in nearby Low Greens, have long of all kinds, including divers who enjoy you’ll find miles of golden sand just a short gone but the beach is sandy and remains investigating the shipwrecks around the walk from the village. popular with those visiting Berwick. Farne Islands. It also boasts the only west- WALK The Ferry Hut, where the man There’s another beach just north of the facing harbour (and its three 18th-century who carried people across the river once pier (worth walking along) – this enjoys limekilns) on the east coast. sheltered, is possibly the smallest museum panoramic views of the lighthouse, WALK Continue along the coast until you in the country and makes an interesting Lindisfarne and Bamburgh Castle. reach Low Newton by the Sea, have a drink diversion – entry is free WALK Join the Berwickshire Coastal Path at The Ship Inn, then return the same way. STAY Dunes Court, Harbour Rd, Beadnell , and head north until you reach St Abbs. STAY Hilly Brow, 9 St Ebbas Way, Beadnell Northumberland NE67 5EE STAY 1 Sallyport, Off Bridge Street, Berwick Northumberland NE67 5GH www.gracedarlingholidays.com Northumberland TD15 1EZ www.beadnellholidayhomes.co.uk EAT The Coach Inn, Lesbury, Alnwick www.sallyport.co.uk EAT Sea Breeze Fish and Chips, Harbour Rd, Northumberland NE66 3PP EAT The Barrels Alehouse, 59 Bridge Street, Beadnell NE67 5AN www.coachinnlesbury.co.uk Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 1ES

BAMBURGH Although it’s the castle that dominates, Bamburgh also boasts a picturesque village and one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline in the country. The golden sands are backed by dunes and there are rock pools at the northern end. There’s limited parking at the castle and on Links Road but it gets busy in summer so your best bet may be using The Wynding instead. WALK Explore Bamburgh itself – it has resisted any commercialisation and is rich in architectural heritage STAY Glebe House, Radcliffe Rd, Bamburgh NE69 7AE www.bamburghglebe.co.uk EAT Create a picnic using local produce from The Pantry SPITTAL www.thepantrybamburgh.co.uk Popular with families, Spittal has been a holiday resort since the 18th century and boasts all the amenities you’d expect including a splash park. The Venetian Pavilion hints at happier times (it’s now a tawdry amusement arcade) but, if you enjoy traditional seaside pursuits, it’s worth a visit because the beach is wonderful, with acres of golden sand you can explore. WALK Join the coastal path and head south until you reach Cocklawburn Beach – it’s rocky but there’s plenty of sand at low tide STAY Caroline House, 110 Main Street, Spittal TD15 1RD www.carolinehouse.net EAT Cafe Crema, Marygate, Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 BN

DogFriendly 41 Why visit Northumberland Remember wildlife Northumberland coast’s beaches, dunes and cliffs attract significant bird populations and these are safeguarded within protected areas – National Nature Reserves (NNRs), Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) and Special Protection Areas (SPAs). It’s important that you’re aware of these areas and of Signage provides any special measures in place additional details about – that way you can enjoy the any restrictions to these areas Northumberland Coast with between April and August so your dog without harming that breeding birds and their the wildlife. NNRs have strict nests remain undisturbed. Alongside the beaches mile stretch of golden sand, byelaws whilst SSSIs and These areas may be marked that appear in the guides, lies between Bamburgh and SPAs protect nationally and by fencing and or ropes and Northumberland has several Holy Island. It’s a mile from the internationally important should be avoided. You can others that remain nearest car park so remains numbers of breeding, request a Shorebird Leaflet relatively unknown. quiet even in summer. However, overwintering and passage online or by contacting the l Hauxley Haven lies just south there are restrictions at certain birds throughout the year. reserves you plan on visiting of Amble – you can park along times of the year to protect During the summer, at www.lindisfarnennr. Hauxley Lane or in Low Hauxley ground-nesting birds. the Northumberland coast blogspot.co.uk and itself. A sandy beach, it’s l A spectacular stretch of sand, is busy with ground-nesting www.nationaltrust.org.uk. almost hidden behind dunes. Warkworth Beach runs between birds particularly little terns l Howick Beach is a wonderful Birling Carrs and the breakwater (the second rarest breeding l Keep dogs under control mix of rocky inlets, sand and at Amble. Although it’s quite a seabird in the UK), which on a lead or at heel picturesque cliffs. It's small but walk from the village, it’s quieter regularly nest at the National l Avoid fenced or roped off few people know about its than its neighbours with very Trust’s Long Nanny Tern exclusion zones existence. It lies near Howick few holiday-makers knowing it Colony (between Beadnell l Check the signs and adhere Hall, the home of the Earls Grey, exists. It’s best at low tide when and High Newton) and on to any measures in place who created a special blend of it becomes a vast expanse of Natural England’s Lindisfarne l Birds nest above the tide tea. Sadly, dogs aren’t welcome golden sand, with panoramic NNR (Berwick - Budle Bay). line so avoid sensitive areas on the estate. There’s limited views of the sea. Dogs are permitted at both by walking on wet sand parking nearby.The Bathing l Cheswick Sands is one reserves, but must be kept l Please take your litter away. House, which was used by the of the largest beaches in under control either on the family when swimming, is now Northumberland and many lead or at heel. available as a holiday property think it the loveliest – part of a and can be rented through national nature reserve, there www.northumbria-byways.com are acres of golden sand and l Ross Back Sands, a three- hardly any people.

The Bathing House

42 DogFriendly