Romania & Bulgaria 7

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BULGARIA TODAY ...... 444 The EU is losing its lustre, and accusations of political corrup- tion grumble on. But among younger people, there’s still plenty of reason to feel optimistic about modern Bulgaria.

HISTORY...... 446 From feisty Thracians and Bulgars to Greek colonisers and invading Romans, Byzantines and Turks, Bulgarians certainly have an eventful past.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & WILDLIFE...... 456 Bulgaria is almost tailor-made for the outdoors enthusiast. Hiking, climbing, skiing, scuba diving or birdwatching – you can try them all here.

VISUAL ARTS, CRAFT & MUSIC...... 462 Centuries of devotion have produced beautiful icons and murals adorning Bulgarian churches, while traditional folk music is truly joyous.

THE BULGARIAN PEOPLE...... 466 The Bulgarians are proud of their Slavic heritage and are a sociable, laid-back people, who seem to never miss a chance to party.

BULGARIAN WINE...... 468 They’ve been making wine here for thousands of years, and there are excellent varieties to sample all round the country.

BULGARIAN CUISINE...... 470 Head to a traditional mehana (tavern) and try some tasty speci- alities like chicken kavarma or a bowl of chilled tarator. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 444

Bulgaria Today With a proliferation of new cultural projects and vacillating feelings about its EU membership, Bulgaria’s social and political landscape is rapidly evolving. Sceptics feel Bulgaria’s new dawn as part of the EU is losing its lustre; meanwhile accusations of political corrup- tion grumble on. But among young people, there’s plenty of reason to feel optimistic about modern Bulgaria.

Best on Film Growing Pains The World is Big & Salvation Lurks Accession to the EU in 2007 was a crowning achieve- around the Corner (2008) A man ment for post-communist Bulgaria. But years later, takes his amnesiac grandson on a Bulgarians regard their progress with a thoughtful eye. journey to rediscover the past. In 2015 Bulgaria had the lowest GDP in the EU, and an The Goat Horn (1972) Harrowing tale of International Day of Happiness survey found Bulgari- revenge in Ottoman-occupied Bulgaria. ans with Europe’s lowest levels of contentment. High Peach Thief (1964) An evocative fuel prices – which formed part of the bitter ground- romance between a Bulgarian Army swell of protests that toppled Boyko Borisov’s first term officer and a prisoner, set during WWI. as prime minister in 2013 – continue to hinder small businesses. Best in Print Along with Romania, Bulgaria’s first few years of Street Without a Name: Childhood EU membership were subject to migration controls. & Other Misadventures in Bulgaria These were lifted in 2014, allowing Bulgarians to work (Kapka Kassabova; 2008) Thought- permit-free across the EU. But after years of being provoking memoir of a young woman’s held at arm’s length by longer-term EU members, the experiences in communism’s last years. country now finds itself wrestling with the thorny Circus Bulgaria (Deyan Enev; 2010) topic of migration into Bulgaria. An 80km wire fence Surrealist collection of stories based was built along the Bulgaria–Turkey border in 2016, a on Bulgarian legends and oddities. crude attempt to curb illegal migration; at the time of The Porcupine (Julian Barnes; 1992) writing, there were plans for a fence along the Greek The former ruler of a fictional post- border, too. communist country goes on trial. Freedom of movement has turned out to be a double-edged sword. Young Bulgarians thrive on their Best in Music new-found mobility, many choosing to work abroad Le Mystère des Voix Bulgares (1990) in Spain, Germany, Italy and beyond. The older gen- A now-legendary set of folk recordings eration are increasingly unnerved by the trend, some from the national female choir. claiming they are unable to find young Bulgarians Gadna Poroda by Azis (2011) The to work in small businesses at home. Others blame best chalga (Bulgarian pop-folk) Bulgarian gloom on the fragmentation of families, a album by the country’s biggest star. by-product of ambitious Bulgarians roving elsewhere Song of the Crooked Dance to earn money. (1927–42) A collection of vintage folk Positive effects in recent years mustn’t be over- songs and traditional dances. looked. An injection of EU funding for cultural treasures, Sofia’s expanded metro system, Plovdiv being crowned European Capital of Culture 2019, the