ANGOLA a Shame to Miss out on Its Dramatic Rebirth

ANGOLA a shame to miss out on its dramatic rebirth. a shametomissoutonitsdramatic rebirth. populate decimated nationalparks,the signsofrecovery are more thanjustamirage. networkgraduallyrecoveringBut withthetransport andwildlife beingshippedintore- travel inAngolaremains thepreserve ofadventurers, diehardsorthoseonflexiblebudgets. colonialism.FromLuandathe ruinsofPortuguese toLubango the nuances are startling. continent’s mostgraciouspeopleanddiscover manyofitsmostcloselyguardedsecrets. tries canmatch.Here intheheady heatofequatorialAfrica you’llencounter someofthe devastated bydecadesofindiscriminate fighting,Angolaholdsalure thatfew othercoun- areattractions manifold.Despite widespread poverty, inbred corruptionandaninfrastructure forexplorationare quietlyopeningup.Foroutsiders the peace andstability,opportunities riches thatliehiddenbehindanostensibly violentveneer. and undiscovered, withfew privytothegeographichighlightsandvastcultural observers anduntouchedbyforeignwarfare visitorssincetheearly 1970s,thecountryremains remote –inmore waysthanone.Angola isaneye-opener Scarred painfullyby yearsofdebilitating Angola 824 © LonelyPlanetPublications Angola ishalfwayalongtheroad to politicalandeconomicatonementitwouldbe Despite advancementsininfrastructure andadramaticallyimproved securitysituation, Chill outonexpansive beaches,samplethesolitudeinvirgin wildlife parksorsiftthrough But, withtherecent usheringinaprolongedperiodof cessationofa 40-year civilconflict

FAST FACTS

Visas Time Telephone Seasons Population Money languages Languages Capital Budget Congo, ZambiaandNamibia Borders accept foreign cards ATMs Area % 00 1,246,700sqkm GMT/UTC +1 US$75 for30days; must beobtained inadvance They exist,butdon’tgenerally Kwanza;US$1=80Kz Luanda US$120perday Congo,DemocraticRepublicof Dry (June toSeptember), to May) wet(October Dry(June Countrycode Portuguese andvariousBantu Portuguese 14million(estimated) % 244; international access code

lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES dryer months of JunetoSeptember. the besttimetovisitAngolaisduring thecooler proximity totheKalahari Desert. and anaridsouthernbeltinfluenced byits jungle, adryerandcoolercentral plateau, regions, includingawet,tropicalnorthern country boastsanumberof distinctclimatic inthesoutheast.AsNamib Desert aresult, the andthepresenceinterior of mountains the current, sea therugged the coolBenguela ily influencedbythree localpeculiarities; Angola’sclimate isheav-subtropical setting, Situated ontheAtlantic littoral inabalmy CLIMATE &WHENTOGO HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

tic Ocean. that cascadedramaticallyintotheAtlan- lookout over acanyonof moonlike cliffs deLua Miradouro and avibrantsmallcityambiance. volcanicfissureswaterfalls, spectacular war, breezy Lubangooffers cascading Lubango Angolan experience. pastiche isauniqueandunforgettable rural Benguela’s and bumpingthrough Benguela–Lobito Railway real wildlife parks. Africa’s largest, emptiestandmostsur- Parque NacionaldaKissama of Angolaatthesharp end. ships, Luandaisakaleidoscopicvision sive bars overcrowded andtatty town- Luanda ies is amust. Flyon to Lubango ( p835 ), the region’s two provincial cit- coastal railway( famous Benguela p834 ) between ( p833 ) andLobito. Atrain rideonthe journey toBenguela for thespectacular itinerary before catching abussouth Two WeekstoOneMonth ( Kissama p832 ). with aquicktour of Parque Nacionalda ( p833 theproceedings ), andround off de Lua( p833 ) and theKwanzaRiver along thecoast road totheMiradouro for aspotof heated bargaining. Continue market ( heading southtoBenfica p831 ) lection of churches before andmuseums Miguel ( p830 ), alongwiththecity’sse- One Week Although differentAlthough regions varysignificantly,

88) xasv bahs expen- beaches, Expansive (p828) (p835) Visit Luanda’s Fortaleza deSão VisitLuanda’sFortaleza ANGOLA••Highlights

Almost untouched bythe ( p833 ) Aspectacular FollowtheLuanda (p833) ( p832 ) Oneof

Rattling Rattling a millennium.The landnowknownasAngola went onforovertent lullsinthefighting, half ofstart aconflictthat,save forafew intermit- andunwittingly pre-emptedin LuandaBay the In 1483Vasco daGamafirst droppedanchor Another LostEmpire poor andeternally uprooted population. tofeed adesperately townsstruggling astated a nationof shattered infrastructure anddev- states. Instead, themore commonreality isof has thepotential tobeoneof Africa’srichest capacity, per, plusameasurablehydroelectric terrain rich inoil,diamonds,ironore andcop- A ties perennially tryingtostave offstarvation. natural resources possibili- anddevelopment ofleft acountryendowedwithvast expanse Angola’s often violentandbloody history has HISTORY and less threatening lands of Brazilheld afar African shoreline. Post1500 themore fertile no real desire onthismalaria-ridden tosettle had exploration, thePortuguese of seafaring despite anaturalcuriosity borneoutof years tive cohesiveness of 15th-c entury Europe. But that lacked theorganisation andadministra- definedkingdoms small tribesliving inloosely was, atthetime, inhabited byanumberof capital. days before returning byplanetothe battle-scarred Huambo( p834 ) forafew unhurried Namibe( p835 to ). Backtrack airandmaketain aniftysidetripto where youcansoakupthefresh moun-

LONELY INDEX PLANET HOW MUCH?

Baguette Souvenir T-shirt Bottle of beer 1L petrol Average meal Bottleofwine Car rental perday 1L bottledwater Cup ofcoffee hour per Internet

US$0.50 US$1 US$1.50 US$10 US$2 US$20 US$10 US$1.50 US$3 US$60

825 ANGOLA ANGOLA ὈὈ

ANGOLA tions: a strategic base ontheroutetions: astrategic aroundthe base gal’s Africancolonieshadonlytwo real func- businessmen. Forthenext300years Portu- greater attractionforcolonialfarmers and 826 they claimedto represent. The National Front (andinternational interests)tribal affiliations into three main groupsinline withthevarious dissidents. to crush increasingly zealousuprisingsfrom in 1961whenthe colonialauthoritiesbegan first beganafter WWIIandwere inflamed the colonialsto Angolanpeople. Clashes tions inhistory. for oneof thelargest forcedhumanmigra- ofCape GoodHope,andacollecting centre Tombua ANGOLA Flamingo Not surprisingly, slavery didlittletoendear The initial independencemovement split Miradouro deLua A TLNIC Namibe Lodge (ANGOLA) NOA • itr ANGOLA ••History O CEAN CABINDA Baía Azul Nacional do Tarpon Lodge LUANDA Parque Cabinda Ὀ ὈὈ Nacional da Iona Benguela

Tunda-Vala Mountain Rd Mountain Soyo Kissama

Parque Leba Reserva de C ONG Namibe Lobito N'Zeto

Koaleck Cunene Cacula Lubango Caxito Matadi Amboin N AMIB N'Dalatando M'Banza Porto Sumbe Congo Cubal Calueque Ruacana Matala Dondo Gabela Nacional do River Uige Congo Calenga Parque Bicuar Bailundo Cuima Quibala Ὀ Ὀ Zombo Maquela do Quimbele Negras Pedras Lucala River Capelongo Negage Barragam KINSHASA do Gove Kunhinga Huambo Ondjiva Namacunda Nacional da Oshikango Santa Clara Parque Quedas do Calandula Cangandala Nacional da Mupa Camacupa Malange Parque Kuvango

D EMOCRATIPUBLFNG Andulo Cuango

Kuito

Kwanza

River

Cubango River

Menongue River Luremo To Windhoek Munhango

The Benguela Railway Cuango involved one of thebiggest airlifts inhistory – the colonial withdrawal –amad scramble that of thefascistSalazar government athome. But pendence toAngolafollowing theoverthrow wing, theUSAand apartheidSouthAfrica. right formed alliances with thePortuguese but later had thesupportof theOvimbundu, Independence of originally Angola(Unita) Soviet allies;andtheNationalUnion forTotal by southerntribes, theUSSR,Cubaandother and wassupported sensibilities with Marxist for theLiberationof began Angola(MPLA) Western countries;the PopularMovement public of Congo(DRC) andanti-communist ported bynortherntribes, DemocraticRe- for theLiberationof was sup- Angola(FNLA) (450km) Longa

Okavango In 1975 the Portuguese finally granted inde- In 1975the Portuguese Lungue-Bungo

Saurimo

LUNDA NORTE River Luena

Cuito Cuanavale River Rundu LUNDA Ὀ Ὀ SUL Nacional da Cameia Parque Calai Luau 180miles 300km 0 0 B OTSWAN Dilolo Z AMBI lonelyplanet.com protracted affair dominatedprotracted byforeign affair in- of Thestage wasset. decolonisation. inadequate process andthewoefully sessions ob-‘world revolution’, SouthAfricansecurity paranoia, Cuba’sambiguousaimtopromote into analready crowdedarena: UScommunist of newoutsidefactors were dutifullythrown a dangerous powervacuum,acombination Moscow-backed partystepped into MPLA government-oil revenue upforgrabs. As the inviting prospectof alarge sliceof unused feuding of elites sets andthe triballybased ture, of lowlevels healthandeducation,two civil war. andweakinfrastruc- Anuneven ingredientsall theessential foranimpending and administrative structure. the countryof itsqualifiedhumanresources townandrobbing central Luandaintoaghost was legendary initsineptitude,converting lonelyplanet.com 2002. government operation on22February 2002. Savimbi wasfinally killedinawell-planned and –hunted andonthe run–itsleader Jonas intothehinterlanda desperate deeper Unita ally crumbled.Increasing defeats drove military shrivel, anditscontrolof thecountrysidegradu- cash supplyto Unita’s diamondscaused Unita to re-arm. (from 1998) against UNsanctions diamond areas andoilfieldsallowedbothsides andthediscovery andUnita, MPLA of new was consistently violated byboththegoverning road, railandcommunicationsnetwork. the provincial cities,destroyingmostof the May tookwarto andOctober 1993asUnita rigged. Almost200,000peoplediedbetween a newfoundferocity, claimingthepollwas as largely free andfair),returned towar with having bytheUN lost a general election(seen broke after down thefollowingyear Unita, by Cuba,theUSAandAngola. Buttheaccord War, aceasefire inplace agreement wasset In 1991,prompted bytheend of theCold War &Peace country. over adamaged andincreasingly beleaguered greedilytinued tofight amongthemselves meddlers andWestern business interests con- were consistently underminedasforeign wishes anddesires of theAngolanpeople forthenext 15years Indeed, the tervention. Angola’s second majorAngola’s second warwasalong, Not surprisingly,Angolain1975possessed A revamped ‘Lusaka Accord’signedin1994 A revamped ‘Lusaka A new peaceaccord was signed on4April ANGOLA••Culture open andgregarious spirit– populacewhose Angolans are an Africa’sperennial survivors, CULTURE deal more cloutontheinternational stage. give DosSantosandhisgovernment agood towards thehubof theworldeconomywill Countries (OPEC)andthisempowering move join theOrganization of Petroleum Exporting out 1.4billionbarrels of oilperday–isdueto 2007 thecountry–which currently churns fordecades.In is brighterthanithasbeen Santos) willaddress someof issues. these according toAngolanpresident, EduardoDos place sometimebefore December31,2007, post-independence elections(which willtake spread. Onecanonlyhopethatthesecond in thecountrysideremains rampantandwide- vestment dealswithChinaandIndia,poverty governmentoil-obsessed ministriesforge in- skyscrapers reach inLuandaand newheights the majority of thepoorest While classes. peacetime economyfromtricklingdownto prevented thelion’sshare of Angola’snew somewhere, wasclearlynotaddingup. creative team of orsomething, accountants Eduardo dosSantoswasemployingavery conclusion: eithertheever-elusive President were toinvestigate. sent and supervisors The late 1990s.VoicesinsidetheIMFwere raised clared oilrevenue hadgonemissing sincethe estimated thatUS$4billionof Angola’sunde- Watch,Rights anindependentlobby group, the mostpressing problem. In2004Human nomic andpoliticalineptitude. Corruptionis lenges before fourdecadesof itcanright eco- haveinstability temporarily neutralised. been towarand the carpet,biggest obstacles mosities ceremoniously brushed underneath integrated intothenational forcesandoldani- army,re-history. Withthe85,000-strongUnita peace andregeneration unprecedented inits Since 2002Angolahasentered aperiod of Angola Today indigenous languages. Atthe forefront of by complex ethnic loyalties and 42different remained inacountrydivided defiantly intact out the1980s and’90s,Angolan culture has neighbour againstneighbourthat set through- damaged tribalconflicts bythelongstanding fortitude isnothing short of remarkable. Badly once garnered infectious –ishighly andwhose Economically speaking,Angola’s future financialanomaliesthathaveIt isthese But thecountrystillfacesmassive chal-

827 ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA Bicuar, Mupa, Kissama, Cameia andCan- Cameia Bicuar, Mupa,Kissama, forsixnational parks,namely:Iona, setting IlhainLuandaandRestingaLobito.and La distinctive sandbars, such coastal asMussulo rivers have ledtotheformation of ahandfulof depositsofmentary numerousfull-flowing plethora of unspoiledbeaches, andthesedi- Angola’s 1650kmof Atlanticcoastlinehostsa ENVIRONMENT combative martialart,knownasCapoeira. carnival,Afro-Americansamba, religion anda ments of modernBrazilianculture, such asthe emigration where ithasre-emerged inele- exportedslaverybeen abroadthrough and history, much of Angola’sculturallegacyhas among theyoung.Dueinparttoitsvolatile the nationallanguage of choice, particularly as hasevolved Portuguese strong, though and Bakongo. Localtribaltraditionsremain dominated bythe Ovimbundu, Kimbundu Angola’s cornucopiaof ethnicgroupsis PEOPLE ever-hopeful population. boltthatreawakenedlightening atired yet in the2006FottballWorldCupwaslike a Angola’sparticipation kick-started. has been thecountry and economicactivitythroughout returned toreclaim andfarms, theirbusinesses springs eternal. Since2002manyémigréshave to growupin.Butforguardedoptimistshope the countryworst ontheplanetforachild the world’slowestandin1999UNdeclared areable diseases rife, isamong GDPpercapita in countless dancesandromanticsongs. samba, and sub-genres, withstylessuch as music, arich andvariedcollectionof offshoots this colourfulartisticpatchwork isAngolan 828 a narrow pine-fringed known col- sandbar overlookingingly onthe Atlantic coastline idly shocking extremes. Perched tantalis- is acity of unfathomable contrastsandviv- Hot, heaving, oilrich andcashpoor, Luanda % LUANDA almostcompletely eradicated.has been decades of civil war,thewildlife parks inthese wreakedgandala. Duetothedevastation by The country’sgrassysavannah provides the Life inAngolais extremely hard. Many cur- 222 /pop3.5million UNA • itr LUANDA ••History zouk and rebita manifesting themselves kizombe, rich oil expats and poorAngolans. home tothepresident, mostof theembassies, and upthe hillfromtheMarginal isMiramar, beaches, bars and restaurants. North of the city only tothe Ilha(1kmaway), withitsendless most likely playandget tostay, away–second along theMarginal where isMutamba, youare head offices andinternational airlines.South bank, the heartof the city.Ithoststhereserve Fevereiro, isknown astheMarginal andis 2km promenade along theharbour,Av 4de 7km-long Ilhade Luanda(‘theIlha’).The alongaharbouroverlooking isset itself the The airportis4kmsouthof Luanda. Thecity ORIENTATION shock. Packed totherafters, it’sstillgetting over the thefighting. nally displacedpeoplefleeing refugee campformillionsof desperate inter- astrous civilwar,Luandaquickly becamea last. Despite sittingouttheworst of thedis- rica’. ButtheNapoleoniccomparisons didn’t trade earneditthetitleof the‘Paris of Af- its resplendent buildingsandflourishing anda becameacity,andtwocenturies later to themainlandoneyearlater. In1605Lu- wasmovedfamilies in1575,thesettlement soldiers by400Portuguese and100 de Cabo Founded asSãoPaulo deLoandaontheIlha HISTORY panache inthefaceof allthisadversity. lems, Luandastillmanages toretain adashof minority. Butdespite such calamitousprob- privilegedall butahighly (andoften foreign) electricity are stillcomparative luxuriesfor like, andcontemplate howrunningwater and locked more centralLuandaeven cauldron- of thatmake hotafternoons traffic ingrid- Marginal promenade,dodge themaniclines early-morning joggers onthepicturesque the stench of fetid water thatintoxicates overpopulation resonates everywhere. Whiff of andtheevidence thisrampant habitants now bursts with3.5millionbeleaguered in- independence. inthe30yearsidly expandingcapital since that have taken rootaroundAngola’srap- ships) andramshacklemakeshift dwellings if itweren’t fortheteeming more wouldbeeven vistas stunning sweeping asitisexotic.The isasspectacular setting loquially astheIlha,balmyocean-side Built forahealthyhalfmillion,Luanda lonelyplanet.com bairros (town- lonelyplanet.com Chicala-I To Benfica Market(15km); LUANDA Chicala-II Benguela (692km) 25 Governo Central 17 Banco NacionaldeAngola...... US Embassy...... German Embassy...... Charme Tours...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION aaé...... B5 Nazaré...... Igreja deNossaSenhora Somitour...... DHL...... Correios Commcenter...... (see9) Department ofImmigration Fortaleza deSãoMiguel...... South AfricanEmbassy...... (DEFA)...... Clinica SagradaEsperanca...... Clinica daMutamba...... British Embassy...... A Nave...... Post Office...... Quinanga 30 Palácio do

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a ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA the postoffice. sive option. decent pizzajoint. 3A/3B) .charmetours.com; Congresso MPLA,33/35) Inthepostofficebuilding.Cunha, Mutamba) Charme Tours Tour Operators ofquated. Incase urgency, tunately, system thepostal issimilarlyanti- historic buildingdatingfrom1850. Unfor- Mutamba) The Post &Telephone floating around80Kzto83KzforUS$1. the kwanzahasremained relatively stable, (where youmayget abetter rate). Since2003 of optionsforchanging moneyonthestreet hotels withouta passport.There are plenty You canchange moneyinbanksandmajor Money Clinica SagradaEsperanca Clinica daMutamba Luanda’sbestclinics: cies) inthecapital. There are many24-hour Services Medical Commcenter Correios A Nave the tophotels have internet facilities. Internet accesscostaroundUS$3perhour. All Access Internet INFORMATION 830 night. Don’t weargold orsilvernight. jewellery (even is relatively low risk.Don’t walk anywhere at around the centralareas duringthe daytime dangers you’llencounter, strolling although robbed isoneofprecautions. thebiggest Being about themand abide bya few basicsafety forvisitorsit isimportant tokeep theirwits as dangerous asmany otherAfricancities, Although Luanda isn’t,onfirst impressions, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Somitour Cmdt Che Guevara, 52A) Cmdt CheGuevara, of theIlha. Mohamed, IlhadeLuanda; facility thatincludesapharmacy. 22; RuaPedro medical Felix 10/12)Aone-stop Machado, The bestpublictelephones are located at Good, centrallylocated options: post office UNA • nomto LUANDA ••Information (Rua da Missão, 55)Locatedatthebackofa (RuadaMissão, , justoff theMarginal, isinalarge, ( % 39 90 91, 33 79; 65 Rua Manuel FCaldeira 39 9091,3379;65RuaManuel ( %

(Largo dePedro deCunha, Alexandrino 222-39 6499,7499;www isafaster andmore expen- ( % (LargodePedro de Alexandrino h 39 3783,emergency72 ( 24hr) Locatedneartheend % farmacias 30 90 34; Av Murtala 30 9034;Av Murtala DHL

( % (pharma- 39 5180;Av tions initsmarineandmammalhalls. mission US$2.50; to costumes and crucifixes. which Angolans are very superstitious) tied cats(of foritsubiquitous half-dead notable the Marginal. It’sajovial most andopenaffair, The FESTIVALS &EVENTS yet, isnotopento thepublic. time of writingitwasstillunfinished and,as Neto Agostinho thin needle-like structure of the Natural old colonialbuilding,andthe indigenous inan huntingartefacts housed its Africanmasks,musicalinstruments and Engels; donationaccepted; are the seeing views of worth thecitybelow.Othermuseums the houses it tookitspresentshape, star theforttoday viving building.Altered in1664,whereupon in1576andisLuanda’soldestsur-Portuguese entrance tothebaywasconstructed bythe dos Remedios domed façadeof the dating from1664,andtheimpressive double- deNazaré deNossaSenhora Igreja of careful willreveal searching thediminutive churches hidden amongtheskyscrapers. Abit toLuandain1902 dismantled andbrought Universal Theconstructionwas Exhibition. Towerfame)inthe1890sforParisEiffel designed byFrenchman Gustave (of Eiffel check the in 1956.Architectural willalsowantto buffs architect Vasco Regaleiraandinaugurated cional deAngola striking domedpinkfaçadeof the stroll atanytimeof day.Lookoutforthe Marginal of sweep theharbour-side The curvaceous &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS also Dangers &Annoyances, p835 . is oneof Luanda’smostcommoncrimes).See a mobilephoneonthestreet (phonerobbery money inahiddenbelt,anddon’tuse oraneye-catchingimitation), watch. Keep restored in1995. Tue-Sun) Unmistakable ontheLuanda skylineisthe Unmistakable The Luanda hasasmattering of old colonial Carnival , which boaststwopermanentexhibi- Fortaleza de São Miguel deSãoMiguel Fortaleza (Rua Nossa Senhora daMúxima,47; (Rua NossaSenhora

(Av 4deFevereiro) Palácio deFerro Museu Central dasForçasArmadas Central Museu isheldin February along and isset

(Rua Rainha Ginga) (Rua Rainha h , Angola’sfirst president. Atthe Museu deAntropologia Museu (Av 4deFevereiro, 151) 9am-6pm) h Igreja de Nossa Senhora deNossaSenhora Igreja makes aninteresting 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) and offers sweeping

(Rua Major Kanyangulo) (Rua Major , builtin1655and Museu de História deHistória Museu lonelyplanet.com (Praça doAmbiente) guarding the designedby h Mausoléu de Mausoléu

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(ad- , , and isalsocelebrated onthestreets, withthe larly grottyinterior. Prepare yourselffordank, the Ilhafacingharbourbeliesaspectacu- on the early1970s,butitsmagnificentsetting manent feature ontheLuandalandscapesince renovation facilitiesbegforamajorposition. General ish, moth-eaten roomsinacentrallylocated US$42/63) half-decent. topayUS$80upwardsforanything Expect anda, butmostroomsare grossly overpriced. There are ahandfulof classyhotels inLu- SLEEPING words fromhisnibs,thepresident. added bonusof apublicaddress andafew Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 15) Ilha hassome great outdoorfishstalls. beach atChicalathe southwestend of the nuts, andbarbecued chicken andcorn.The lished street vendors bags of beer, roasted sell oughfares around thecitycentre. More estab- sandwiches fromwashing bowlsinthethor- rio shops) have a distinctlyEuropeanflavour. Portuguese, have youbelieve. Thankstothelegacyof the centre are better thanadvancepublicitywould thatliedottedestablishments aroundthe city Infact,manyof themyriadeating starve. edible meal and abudget of US$10andupwardsforan With somesubtlegastronomicknow-how EATING &DRINKING and spankingnew. the airport),Alvaladeisglitzyand swanky, morebut inaslightly removed location (near of itsastronomic pricetag. serving top-notch gymandfree internet) almostde- hotel withroomsandfacilities(includinga US$250/290; arrive armedwithamosquitonet. dark bathroomsandcharacterless rooms,and mid-morning coffee or a buffet-style lunch.mid-morning coffee orabuffet-style US$250/290; s/d US$66/79) Just off theMarginal, Kimbo isgreat for a Hotel Panorama Hotel Independence Day Kimbo Kimbo Street foodiseasytoprocure from the Trópico Hotel Hotel Globo Hotel Hotel Alvalade Hotel women who sell fruitandbaguette-like womenwhosell Rock-bottom Luandastylewithclean- ( apis % api This scruffy haunt has been aper- haunthasbeen Thisscruffy . , visitors won’t toLuandacertainly 923 474841; RuaJoaquimdeFigueiredo, pastelerias ( %

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% ( % 33 21 79; Rua Rainha Ginga,100;s/d 33 2179;RuaRainha ( % isheldon11November 37 00 70; Rua da Missão, 103;s/d 37 0070;RuadaMissão, ) 32 7470;RuaEmídioMbindi;s/d On aparwithTrópico, 30 90 74; Av Murtala Mohamed; 30 9074;Av Murtala ) An international-class (pastryandcoffee LUANDA ••Sleeping bar- Mohamed) Huambo (US$120), Malange (US$95),Na- (US$95), (US$110), Cabinda clude Benguela different airlines(see p837 ). Destinationsin- majorevery Angolancitywithoneof five Luandaandalmost You canflydailybetween THERE&AWAY GETTING Don’t buytheivory. the handicraftsdeftlysculpted andauthentic. The atmosphere isrelatively hassle free, and 16km southof road. LuandaontheKissama market, The bestplacetoshop isatBenfica SHOPPING Angola group fromLisbonorBrazil.Check subtitles. Itoccasionallyhostsaperformance screens HollywoodflickswithPortuguese antly named,large bar-cinema semi-outdoor Miami thanLuanda. Mohamed) Murtala trendy hauntsas Many tosuch flocktotheIlhainevenings ENTERTAINMENT funje chickenthing fromtasty to bog-standard inLuanda’syacht club taurant surroundings. andpleasant service fered inabundanceontheIlha,withgood attheentrancetoIlha.tablishment tasted) quite literally atthisbusinesslike es- presence canbeexperienced(and Chinese is ‘Steers’, aSouthAfricanburger chain. peri-peri chicken andfrench fries.Nextdoor Portuguese-style convenience food,serving place mixes air-conditioned comfortwith snacks. tasting sweet ous tree-covered patiooffering drinksand US$60 for a sedan orUS$120 for 4WD;car US$60 fora sedan da Cunha, 11/12). Trópico, and which at theairportandat Hotel hasoffices Fevereiro. the domesticterminal atAeroporto 4de depart from Lubango (US$125). Allflights mibe (US$130), Ondjiva(US$135)and Portugália Portugália ChezWou Restaurante Jardim EsplanadaNilo You can hire cars from Karl Marx Karl Club Nautico Nandos (groundmaize). fordailylistings. and (cnr Rua Amilcar Cabral & Rainha Ginga) (cnr RuaAmilcarCabral&Rainha (Rua de Oliveira Martins, 19) (RuadeOliveiraMartins, ( Restaurante Bordão Restaurante % Rental prices start perday at pricesstart Rental

(Av Murtala Mohamed) (Av Murtala Equador that seem more thatseem redolent of 30 9677) Chill Out (Av Ginga) Rainha

(

% Portuguese fare Portuguese of- ( %

( % 33 07 46; Largo Tristão 33 0746;Largo Tristão 30 9394) Avis 30 99 63; Av Murtala 30 9963;Av Murtala

serving every- serving ( A classyres-

% ( This poign- % A salubri- 30 9028;Av Angola’s Jornal de 32 1551) This 831

, ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA along the coast between Benguela andLu- Benguela along thecoastbetween driver. Ithasanofficeattheairport. charges approximately US$25anhourwith aretaxis 4WDs;try are conspicuousbytheirlongqueues.Private anda andnearby(US$0.50toUS$1). Busstops building. Theygotomostplaceswithin Lu- in frontof thepalepinkGoverno Provincial fromaterminus inMutamba, Hiaces) start ubiquitous Hiaces(blue-and-white Toyota terminal nexttotheinternational one. is 4kmsouthof Luanda,withthedomestic Luanda’s airport,Aeroporto 4deFevereiro, AROUND GETTING recommended.highly nature ofmakes hiringadriver Luandatraffic and driver fromUS$15anhour. Thechaotic 832 The best road link is between Luanda and The best road linkis between since lastingpeace broke outin April 2002. situationhasimprovedsecurity immeasurably isincreasinglybuses popular, andtheoverall Travelling incars outsidethecapital or on COASTAL ANGOLA hours) costsUS$25toUS$28. Filhos), andthejourney (approximately nine trip (SGO,Empesco andAutoviação Fialhoy anda. Three companiesmake thisspectacular There is a daily bus service running600km There isadailybusservice For getting around Luanda, buses andthe For getting aroundLuanda,buses in 2001 the first elephant calf was born to Kissama’s newlyestablishedherd. in 2001thefirstelephantcalfwasborntoKissama’s translocations ofwildanimalsever attempted. populated Tuli BlockinEastern Botswanabyroadandshipinwhatwillbe oneofthelargest 14 wildebeestsandfourgiraffes. stockof16elephants,12zebras,later 12ostriches, andtheparkwastoppedupwithafurther 2000 when16elephantswere flowninonaRussian cargo planefromSouthAfrica. Oneyear preparations, received Kissama four yearsofpainstaking itsfirststockofair-lifted animalsin villagers inhowtomanagecampsites andrefurbished oldbuildingsastouristbungalows. After ex-soldiers re-trained Ark,thispioneeringaidproject asgamewardens,instructed local Noah’s elephantsfromwildlife reservesby importing inSouthAfrica andBotswana. Called Operation with theAngolangovernment hatchedaningenious relief planaimedat rehabilitating thepark quickly fell prey topoachersorwere eaten bydesperate localsanxioustostave offstarvation. little more thanzero. Those animalsnotfinishedoffbylandminesorsporadicmilitarycrossfire, suffered inexorablyduringAngola’sacrimoniouscivilwarwhen wildlife numbersplummeted to habitatforgiant herdsofrhino, A one-time elephant andbuffalo, Parque NacionaldaKissama OPERATION NOAH’S ARK OSA NOA • aqeNcoa aKsaa&Aon COASTAL ANGOLA ••Parque &Around NacionaldaKissama Though progress hasbeenasuccess,and hasbeenslow,earlysignssuggestthattheproject upto500elephantsfromtheover-The Arkistotransport ultimate aimofOperationNoah’s Foundationintandem But in1996,withtheendofwarsight,newlyformedKissama Macontaxi

( % 47 0520) , which Despite years of poaching andneglectduring precarious turtles. populationof nesting sea Park in advance in Luanda through (s/d US$90/120) Operation Noah’sArk(see above ). largely relief toapioneering project known as of Angola’swildlife regeneration thanks efforts remainsthe civilwar,Kissama atthe forefront indigenous buffalo, gnarly baobabtrees ishometoelephants, water swathe of savannah punctuated coastal by a nationalparkin1957,this990,000-hectare in1938andupgraded to as anature reserve and well-stocked wildlife park.Inaugurated south of Luanda,isAngola’smostaccessible (alsospeltQuiçama),situated 70km Kissama AROUND PARQUE & DAKISSAMA NACIONAL roads. spectacular 2000km of bone-rattlingbutseriously rough, you cannowget fromNamibiatoLuandavia of adventure,patience andagung-hosense quickly findthat,withadecentcar, plentyof Lubango–Huambo. Joinupthe dotsandyou’ll Clara(Namibianborder)and bango–Santa Luanda–Malange,Benguela–Huambo, Lu- routes (witha4WD)include Other passable in thesouthwestfromLubangotoNamibe. drive followedbythespectacular bito, closely viaPortAmboin,Sumbe andLo- Benguela Visitors to Kissama can stay in Visitors canstay toKissama

( % 222-43 20 20; Rua Cónego Manual dasNeves) 222-43 2020;Rua CónegoManual , though bookings mustbemade , though palanca antelopes anda lonelyplanet.com Kurika Safari Safari Kurika bungalows .

BENGUELA knows theroute inLuanda. that youhire bothacaranddriver who p830 ) orwithahire car. Itisrecommended park iseitherwithanorganised group(see the nearby KurikaSafariParkbe organised through orat reveal copious amountsof birdlife, andcanalso Boat trips(US$100)onthenearby road, approximately 30kmsouthof thecapital. coast theLuanda–Benguela Atlantic justoff cascade likeintothe aminiGrandCanyon the two hours. can beorganised fromUS$10perperson for meals forUS$15toUS$18.Wildlife viewing There isalsoarestaurant onsite thatserves lonelyplanet.com desert. Founded by the Portuguese in1617, Foundedby the Portuguese desert. oasis of green dryandarid inanotherwise River Cavaco valley;averitable important bythelushandagriculturally and bisected bito, thecityissurroundedbyfinebeaches approximately 30kmsouthof theportof Lo- Nestledontheshorescapital. of theAtlantic cultural cityandtheself-proclaimed portant Coastal mostim- isAngola’ssecond Benguela % rust andsilver-coloured rockformationsthat The onlypracticalwayof getting to the Other naturalattractionsinthearea include only a matter of timebefore the railway isrestored onceagain toits formerglory. high, but with 30monthsof scheduled manhours andaninvestment ofover US$300million,it’s this dreamthree areality. –thatstand inthewayofmaking the priceis ForAngolanobservers an obstacle courseofdisincentives –minefields, blown-up bridgesandcollapsed ravinestoname their waybacktothe table. The Chinesewere thesuccessfulbidders fightingtheirwaythrough war thefollowingyear –never materialised. a uniqueformoffuel forAngola’ssteam engines. ofthe Butthedeal–thankstoa re-eruption with thousandsof acres ofeucalyptusforest planted commercially duringthe1920stoprovide onhardcash,theAngolangovernmentrebuild theBenguelarailway.Short offered topaythem break inAngola’songoingdomesticwar,Italian companyTordiValle secured anagreement to spur betweenthetwincoastalcitiesof BenguelaandLobito. –beenreduced toa30km had –byacombinationofambush,sabotage andserialmine-laying this oncegreat linkinsouthwestAfrica’s burgeoning oil,diamondand copper-based economy Lobito toLuau ontheDRCborder,andrananimpressive stockof69steam locomotives. heyday inthe1960sand’70strack stretched of 1370km(850miles)fromtheAtlantic port the Benguelarailwaycomprisedafeat ofengineering unmatched elsewhere inAfrica. Duringits in1899andbuiltbytheBritishoverCommissioned bythePortuguese theensuing30years, THE BENGUELARAILWAY 2722 /pop200,000 Miradouro deLua Miradouro Fast forwardto2006,andwithpeace onceagainalastingpossibility,the negotiations clawed Successive renovation schemeshave comeupagainstcrushingproblems. In1997,duringabrief But Angola’sbitter civil warquicklyputanendtotherailway’sglorydays. Bytheearly1990s Tarpon Lodge COASTAL ANGOLA••Benguela , averitable moonscapeof ( % 88-163 1519324) Kwanza River Kwanza River .

Palácio doGoverno ters bytheprovincial party,andthe MPLA das Bolas ing building.Othergems includethe most beguil- Brazil asballastandisBenguela’s built in1748fromstonecarriedships from hora doPópulo for captured slaves. Thechurch of old warehouse thatwasonceaholdingshed de Arqueológica Hiace bus). Fartasouth ontheroadtoBaía (accessible by town beach is in themorning.Themostpopularout-of- hereathletes early practicingtheirCapoeira ing points.Watch outforsvelte-looking acting asoneof thecity’sunofficialmeet- famous, withthecentrallylocated make plentyof friends. spontaneous You’llencounter littlehassleheresetting. and a laid-back ambienceinabustlingbig-city retains the bloody40-yearcivilwar,Benguela by neighbouring Lobito. Spared adirect hitin tion asanAtlanticportwasrapidlyupsurged railway( the Benguela below itsposi- ), though of the20thcentury,itbecameterminus for human cargo boundfor Brazil.Withtheonset and theembarkationpointforshiploads of wasonceanimportant Benguela slave port Benguela’s yellow-sand beaches yellow-sand are rightly Benguela’s The town’s only museum isthetiny The town’sonlymuseum

(Av Agonstinho Neto) (Av CombatentesdaGrandeGuerra) , situated on the seafront inan , situated ontheseafront Baía Azul facingthebeach. , situated 20kmtothe , used asaheadquar-, used Praia Morena Nossa Sen- Palácio Museu Museu was 833

ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA Flamingo friendly Americanexpat. atmosphere gem. atthissecluded Runbya budget travellers willenjoythefacilitiesand Luanda (690km,ninehours). Adailytrain (see bus service p832 and Benguela ) between major cities. withLubango,Huamboandother Benguela 15km tothenorth.Regularplanes alsolink the citycentre andtheotherinCatumbela The cityhastwoairports,one3km southof fromLuanda(US$90 toUS$120). service Escondidinho Restaurante speciality)at (aBenguela seafood substantial galãos upstairs. dustierrooms elled furnishings hideslightly modation pile,theleatherandwood-pan- US$120/140; Bernardino Correia, 81;s/dUS$66/99; best eatingjoints, ence andtwodifferent roomoptions. Almeida Santos;s/dUS$60/120; 093; LargodePioneiros, 16;rinclbreakfast US$45; hotels andthelistisgrowing. Indiana Jonesmovie. but thejourneyislike somethingoutof an Transportisinshabbystation. cattletrucks, 1½ hours, 30km,fourdaily)fromthecentral tic daytrip,take thetrainto 834 former Angolan high commissioner António former Angolan high in1928 itwas brieflytouted by ings. Indeed, expansive parksandattractive colonial build- bon), Huambo wasoncerenowned forits Known formerly asNova Lisboa(New Lis- % HUAMBO SOUTHERN ANGOLA to Cubal150kminland. runs toLobito(30km)and,lessfrequently, city’s mosthappeningnightspot/disco. ers, prawns and excellent desserts. ers, prawnsandexcellentdesserts. Reis, 7-9) Reis, Benguela is easily accessed byadailyplane iseasilyaccessed Benguela Other eatingoptionsinclude The good-value At of hasawideselection hostels and Benguela mostcolourfulandauthen- For Benguela’s There are three companiesoffering adaily A hotel thatdoublesasoneof Benguela’s At 2412 /pop400,000 OTENAGL • Hab SOUTHERN ANGOLA••Huambo Nancy’s EnglishSchooleHospedería Hotel M’ombaka M’ombaka Hotel (white coffee) andpastries,ormore , which also metamorphoses intothe , which alsometamorphoses

( ap % 30 153;RuaAntónioJAlmeida) ) , top of the Benguela accom- , topof theBenguela Pensão Contente Pensão Contente Hotel Luso Hotel ( %

( a % 34 487; Rua do Mercado; s/d 34 487;RuadoMercado; ) 33 206;RuaCándidodos hasaquietambi- ( a % Lobito ) 31 292;Av Aires de serves burg- ( % (US$2.50, Pastelaria Pastelaria ( % 336 37;Rua ap , with 923 594 ) , frills roomsandeager-to-please staff. for US$7. Konjevi. able optionandashade more thanthe spiffy Santos, CidadeBaixa;s/dUS$64/70; condition. Lubango are openbut are inapretty poor and Huamboand Huambo andBenguela, to three The roadsbetween timesaweek. andLubangotwo connections toBenguela Lacerda, CidadeAlta) tional further eastisthe cheaper andmore tradi- ers, pizza,pastriesandcoffee. Afew blocks Dr Lacerda,CidadeAlta) the Parisian-style in Huambo, at theback. has adequate roomsandapatiorestaurant sanda House do Governo. down justoff theroundabout nearthePalácio ( commodation options. restaurant. with caged birds,aboatinglake andarustic landscapedtouristcomplex is apleasantly 3km outsideof town,the a pinkPortuguese-inspired palace,while the ruinsiscolonial classical sculptures. estufa, Tomás Américo Almirante City). Take sometimetocheck out (Lower (Upper City)andtheCidadeBaixa buildings thatmake uptheCidadeAlta briefly inamongthescores of bullet-strafed Huambo’s latent beautycanbeglimpsed to recovery. itsfirstis taking tentative steps ontheroad Rising fromtheashes,modern-dayHuambo little more thanapileof pock-marked rubble. a gruesome52-daysiege reduced thecityto waiting. Butthencamethewarand,in1993, Vicente Ferreira asthecountry’scapital-in- Baixa; s/dUS$70/100; % The There are to Luandaand dailyflights One of hotels onlytwowell-maintained A blockorsofromHotel Nino, Huambo’s cheapest pensão, Huambo hassomesurprisinglygoodac- The city’smostinvitingcafé-restaurant is Gleaming andalmostincongruousamid areWhile truesights few andfarbetween, 20 747;CidadeAlta;s/dUS$35/45) Restaurante Pestico GiGi Restaurante Hotel Nino Hotel with itseucalyptustrees andforlorn ( Hotel Konjevi Konjevi Hotel % , which has a daily set menu , which hasadailyset 23 422;CidadeBaixa;s/dUS$38/76)

a ( % , which does great, which does burg- Novo Império Novo ) isacosyandcomfort- 22 780;Rua5deOutubro,Cidade , knownlocallyasthe ( % a Palácio doGoverno Granja PordoSol 20 737; Rua Serpa dos 20 737;RuaSerpa , isabasicbed- lonelyplanet.com ( ) % hasclean,no- Pensão Huambo

( % 20 258;RuaDr 23 176;Rua Tchinos- Parque ,

and anon-site casino,orthe more modern Other day or half-day excursions include Other dayorhalf-day of Rio’s Rei Cristo Grande Hotel daHuílaandmotoruptothe car anddriver (US$15perhour)fromthe get abird’s-eyeviewof Lubangoistorent a a coolcentralvalley,oneof thebestwaysto hotels. ifoverpriced, orsocomfortable, half-dozen overlanders here, somequirkycafésanda You’ll encounter ahandfulof adventurous mon withNamibiathanHuamboorKuito. of Lubango’scentralcore hasmore incom- munities elsewhere, theorder and tranquillity the 40-yearconflictthattore theheartof com- impoverished present. Relatively unscathedby lar images of Angola’swar-ravaged pastand Cool andpicturesque, Lubango defiespopu- % LUBANGO lonelyplanet.com from a seedy Graham Greene novel.from aseedy ofming pooldevoid water conjure upimages aps Huíla African décor. spanking-new rooms are kitted outintasteful Lodge Casper Tai Lodge do Monte ing touristpark butfriendly. scruffy, ( hotelsfortable andrestaurants. recommended. ally runby spot 70kmsouthof thetownprofession- Flamingo Lodge Namibe alsoprovidesright, easyaccess to of andattractionsin itsown decentsights Atlantic coast.Aside fromboastinganumber bango istothe fishing townof switchbacks. drops 1000mviaasuccessionof precipitous Leba MountainRd for stellar level views,andthefamous sea town, where youcanclimbto2600mabove the 163 151 9324; www.aasafaris.com). 163 1519324;www.aasafaris.com). % At thedusty Africangem Situated ontheedge of town,theburgeon- Lubango’s cheapest pensão, Surrounded by mountains andnestledin Surrounded bymountains Lubango has a selection ofLubango hasaselection relatively com- An excellentandviablesidetripfromLu- 2612 /pop200,000 21 788;RuaDeolindaRodríguez,98A;rUS$50) Tunda-Vala volcanicfissure

( % Corcavado

(s/d US$74/130) , ahuge of statue Jesus (redolent 20 512;Av DrAgostinho Neto; s/dUS$106/160; ) ( , oodlesof fadedcharm andaswim- % (s/d US$100/125; Angolan Adventure Safaris Angolan Adventure 20 183) , achoice fishingandangling Complexo Turistico Nuestra Señora Nuestra Señora Complexo Turistico ANGOLA DIRECTORY ••Accommodation ANGOLADIRECTORY onthewaytoNamibethat ) thatoverlooks thecity. is hometothe , with20thatched units ap , 20kmoutside Prebooking is Grande Hotel da Grande Hotel Pensão Diocema Namibe ) , whose eight eight , whose Wenda Ke Wenda Ke

onthe ( % , is 88-

Crime againstforeigners islow outsidethe measures; Health formore see details, ( p1134 ). tion, mosquitonetsandotherpreventative don’t cutcorners whenitcomestomedica- Consult yourdoctorbefore youleave and areas.malaria aparticularworryinthecoastal your biggest danger isprobably health,with ground rules.Luanda’sstreet-crime aside, imagine –aslongyouabide byafew basic gola isfarsafer thanoutsiders first might Contrary topopularbelief,travelling in An- DANGERS &ANNOYANCES 8.30am to12.30pmSaturday. and 2pmto6pmMondayFriday, and areMost businesses open8.30amto12.30pm BUSINESS HOURS countryside andatleastUS$80inthecities. for themostbasic(bathroomless)roomin are notcheap. topay upwardsof Expect US$40 opened inthemajor cities.Rooms,however, and since2002anumberof newhotels have scant inAngola,butthesituationischanging Tourist accommodation hastraditionally been ACCOMMODATION ANGOLA DIRECTORY intermittent (twohours) plythisroute. buses Namibe isoneof thebestincountryand LubangoandthetownofThe roadbetween Namibia. Lubangoand Windhoek, between TAAGBenguela. (see p836 ) flytwicea week anda andregular connectionstoHuamboand ( and top-notch 582; time hang-outisthefunky tables outtheback. tables internet caféupstairs andacoupleof billiard % There are fromLubangotoLu- dailyflights Lubango’s coolestandmostpopularday-

PRACTICALITIES

Rua IrmãoRoby) 22 765;RuaHojiyaHenda,20) Angolauses themetric system. inAngola is220/240V,50 Hz. Electricity The nationalradio stationis Angola’snewspapers andmagazines Nacional de Angola. include Jornal deAngola. galãos. , which does deliciousburgers, which does Equallyhipis , which boastsan Huíla Café Radio Mania Bar Mania

( % 835 24

ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA Fernando Pessoa, VilaAlice) MPLA FoundationDay Independence Day National Hero’sDay Armed ForcesDay Day Worker’s Day Victory National Holiday New Year’s Day public holidaysinAngola: rica Directory ( p1106 are), these theprincipal As wellasreligious holidays listed in theAf- HOLIDAYS Zambia USA UK South Africa Namibia Germany Gabon France ofCongo Democratic Republic Congo Canada representation inLuanda: oftory section therelevant country). theDirec-mibia, GabonandSouthAfrica(see Angola hasdiplomaticrepresentation inNa- EMBASSIES &CONSULATES still ahuge problem. areas –thethreat of unexplodedlandminesis passport anddon’t wanderoff theroad inrural public areas, alwayscarryaphotocopyof your less, askpermission before photosin taking many of theirAfricancounterparts. Neverthe- incorruptible –are generally friendlierthan thermore, not Angolanpolice–whilecertainly has diminishedconsiderably since2002.Fur- andarmedbanditryincapital 836 nies, butthebulk of business isdone inUS dol- are accepted bymajor hotels andairline compa- rarely acceptforeign bankcards. Credit cards sometimes marginally better. hotels oron thestreet, where therates are mies, theUSdollar isalsowidelyaccepted. country. As withmany third-worldecono- convertible andcannot be taken outof the Angola’s currency isthekwanza(Kz).It isnot MONEY ( You canexchange moneyinbanks,at The followingcountrieshave diplomatic Angola is acasheconomy andlocalATMs ( % % RNPR NAGL • GtigTee&Aa There &Away INANGOLA••Getting TRANSPORT ( ( ( ( ( % 33 4582;RuaDiogoCão,4) % % ( % % 44 4518;Av Boumedienne,132) Houari ( % % 31 0293;RuaFernando Pessoa, VilaAlice) 44 9289;RuaEngArmindoAdrade,149) 27 March 27March 33 4841; Rua Rev Agostinho Pedro33 4841;RuaRev Neto,39) 44 74 92; Rua Rei Katyavala, 106) Katyavala, 44 7492;RuaRei 44 94 94; Rua Rei Katyavala, 113) Katyavala, 44 9494;RuaRei ( 1 May 1May 39 5483;RuadosCoqueiros,37) % 33 4516;Av 4Fevereiro, 120) 1January 4February 33 4187;RuaKwamimeNkrumah) 1August 11November 17 September 17September 10December ( % the provinces 31 0293;Rua processing timerequired). (twodays’ can belodgedfrom8amto2.30pmonFriday visacosts US$75. single-entry aone-month, It isessentialtogetavisabefore youarrive; return. (TAP), ataround US$1800 with prices starting Airlines) andLisbon (SNBrussels Brussels Paris (Air France),London (BritishAirways), Direct from Europeareflights possiblefrom Air THERE&AWAY GETTING IN ANGOLA TRANSPORT required). ticket (ready sameday;twophotosandacopy ofair to Friday can belodgedfrom9amtonoonand2pm4pm Monday Zambia Namibia Gabon of Congo Democratic Republic Congo and consulate information. opposite for embassy inAngola. See tained forthefollowingcountriescanbeob- Visas forOnwardTravel Visas adjacent totheBritishembassy,forUS$30. at theDepartmentof Immigration(DEFA), canberenewedVisas for90daysinLuanda Extensions Visa from aperson ororganisation inAngola. ently, youwillrequire aletter of invitation Ifyouarecome through. travelling independ- to to Luanda,andcantake uptotwoweeks plications fromembassiesabroadare referred Tourist ap- costUS$75for30days.Visa visas VISAS eral attempts, butworksinthemaincities. country. AngolaTelecom often requires sev- systemThe postal isunreliable the throughout POST &TELEPHONE thirds of theinitialaskingprice. downtoone-half totwo- expect tohaggle markets oronthestreet. Youcangenerally hard cashandinvest inadecentmoneybelt. lars orkwanza. Comeprepared withplentyof ticket andonephotorequired). ticket (air be lodgedfrom8.30amto12.30pmMonday Friday can be issued on the same or next day. can beissuedonthesameornext Bargaining ispossiblewhenbuyingfrom VisascostUS$100for30daysandapplications can All visitorstoCongoneedavisa. Visaapplications VisascostUS$100for30daysandapplications VisascostUS$50for30daysandapplications All visitorsneedavisa. lonelyplanet.com hamed, LaIlha) Maritimo Africano, 2-4) Africano, Maritimo Fevereiro,10) de Fevereiro inLuanda. There are alsotwice Air Gabon Air France Aeroflot inLuandaandflyto/fromAngola: based toLubango. fromWindhoek flights (Namibia).Therehoek are alsotwice-weekly (Democratic Republicof Congo)andWind- bwe), Johannesburg (SouthAfrica),Kinshasa from Brazzaville (Congo),Harare (Zimba- as as US$800.Tryanonlinebookingagent, such Dealscanbescoopedforaslittle twice weekly. Europe viaitsAfricanhubof AddisAbaba Ethiopian Airlines,which fliestoLuandafrom into Lubango. inNamibia fromWindhoek flights weekly lonelyplanet.com national carrieris canoftenflights bebooked day.The thesame Air travel isrelatively easywithin Angola and Air AROUND GETTING permitting. (Angola) fromRundu(Namibia),visa Calai (Angola) fromOshikango (Namibia)orat ing youcouldenter Clara ateitherSanta is arelative formality.At thetimeof writ- The borderwithNamibia,ontheother hand, andAngola–DRC. Angola–Zambia between before negotiatingtheroadsandbureaucracy travellers savvy though shouldthinktwice of thecountry’slandborders are nowopen, According totheAngolantouristministry, all Land TAAG Airways South African Ethiopian Airlines Airways British Air Portugal Air Namibia 12) NotethatTAAG shares someroutes. da Missão, 123,Luanda) da Missão, From insideAfricayoucanflytoLuanda The followinginternational airlinesare Your bestbetforacheaper dealiswith International flyintoAeroporto flights 4 Holiday Genie ( % ( % 222-39 2541;5thfl,RuaMissão,123) ( ( % % ( ( % 222-33 0426;Av 4deFevereiro, 114) % 222-31 0614;Largo4deFevereiro, 8) 222-33 5416;Av 4deFevereiro,123) ( %

222-33 6726;RuaAssaltoQMoncada, 222-33 1692;Av 4Fevereiro, 80) (www.holidaygenie.com) TRANSPORT IN ANGOLA •• Getting Around INANGOLA••Getting TRANSPORT ( % , butthere are anumberof 222-30 92 70; Av Murtala Mo- 222-30 9270;Av Murtala TAAG ( 222-31 0615;Largo4de %

( % 222-39 1858;RuaClube 222-35 2586;5thfl,Rua . 99; www.charmetours.com; Congresso MPLA,33/35) are currently getting along-awaited Chinese transport, Angola’s war-damaged railways ofA one-timepioneer 20th-century rail Train put together tailored trips. south of and Namibe,canalsoorganise visas the KwanzaRiver andtheFlamingoLodge .aasafaris.com) Safaris venture water sportsandbird-watching. www.eco-tur.com) specially tailored tours. bookingsto organise anythingfromflight sance, At theforefront of Angola’stouristrenais- Tours and Malange. Lobito,Luanda bango, Huambo,Benguela, thecitiesof between Lu- (ifrough) passable the journeyupfromNamibia,androadsare you tomostplaces.Plentyof cars nowmake a4WDtoget you’llstill need gola, though ment, roadsare slowlyopeningupinAn- invest- andPortuguese Aided byChinese Car information. relatively comfortable. See p832 forfurther pared thevehicles tootherAfricanbuses, are onic stages outsideof com- thecities,though isstillinthe embry- Public transportation Bus and Lubango–HuamboUS$80. US$85; US$110;Benguela–Lubango Benguela also possible. Sample pricesinclude:Luanda– cities rundailyandinterprovincial are flights 44 2910). Gemini Airlines Huambo and Calenga (four daily). Huambo andCalenga and Lubango andNamibe (onceweekly); (fourdaily); Lobito andCubal viaBenguela LuandaandDondo(twiceweekly); between makeover. are nowavailable Limited services equally goodinternal options,including in adventure trips,such asbiggamefishing, fit, co-runbyaBritishexpat,that specialises (

% ( Charme Tours % Flights between Luandaandmajor between Flights 222-35 1249) 222-35 0869) , which runstheTarpon Lodge on

( is anequallyprofessional out- % 163 1574328,270214626104;www

and , ( % Sonair Diexim Expresso Diexim Expresso Ecotur 222-39 6499,74

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SAL Air ANGOLA ANGOLA ANGOLA 838 © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethink it’sfairtoask you touseitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake