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Bericht Israel-Exkursion 2017 Evenarí-Forum-אבן ארי für Deutsch-Jüdische Studien Evenarí-Forum / Israel 2017 Technik-, Natur- Geschichts- und Kulturwissenschaften Energie im Nahen Osten Bericht zu einer Exkursion nach Israel vom 03. bis 17. September 2017 Herausgegeben von Friedrich Battenberg, Volkhard Huth, Jochen Kobow Veranstaltung und Organisation: Evenarí-Forum für Deutsch-Jüdische Studien an der TU Darmstadt Darmstadt, im Juli 2019 1 Evenarí-Forum / Israel 2017 Gefördert durch: 2 Evenarí-Forum / Israel 2017 Inhalt Vorwort .................................................................................................................................................. 4 Literatur zu Geschichte und Landeskunde von Israel und Palästina ............................................. 7 I. 3. September: Altstadt und Hafen Jaffa, von Friedrich Battenberg .................................... 12 II. 4. September: Große Moschee und Weißer Turm in Ramla, Emmaus, Weizmann-Institut für Wissenschaften in Rehovot, Bauhausarchitektur in Tel Aviv, Sarona von Marina Bandov und Friedrich Battenberg ............................................................................................ 15 III. 5. September: Meerwasserentsalzungsanlage (Ashkelon), Tel Be‘er Sheva (Ausgrabungen), Sde Boker (Grab von Ben Gurion), En Avdat Nationalpark von Christopher Fichtlscherer ........................................................................................................ 22 IV. 6. September: Ne‘ot Hovav Eco-Industrie Park, Sturzwasserfarm Michael Evenarí, Nabatäerstadt Avdat, Ramon Krater (Mitzpe Ramon) und Wanderung von André Hartmann und Friedrich Battenberg ........................................................................................ 30 V. 07.September: Timna Park Kupferbergwerk, Felsformationen, Tempel der Hathor (Nationalpark), Eilat (Unterwasserobservatorium und Korallenriff) von Nils Kaffenberger ................................................................................................................................................. 38 VI. 08. September 2017: Dead Sea Works, Mamshit, Nuklearforschung in Dimona, Beduinen in Nok‘dim von Jochen Kobow ............................................................................................... 44 VII. 09. September 2017: Massada (Festung), Ein Feshka (Oase), Badespass am Toten Meer, Hisham-Palast (Jericho) von Friedrich Battenberg ............................................................... 57 IX. 11. September: Besuch von Kapernaum, Rundgang ›Sapir‹-Werke Mekorot, danach über Zippori (Mosaiken) und Beit Shearim nach Megiddo von Artem Maifat ................... 71 X. 12. September: Haifa (Templerviertel), Baha’i-Heiligtum, Technion, Caesarea (Antike Stadt, römische Wasserleitung, römisches Theater), auf dem Weg nach Jerusalem (Abu Gosh) von Friedrich Battenberg und Mu Shouran .................................................................. 82 XI. 13 September: Jerusalem ‒ Altstadt mit Tempelberg und Klagemauer, Davidstadt mit Davidson Center (archäologische Ausgrabungen), armenisches Kloster und Kirche, Besuch des Israel-Museums von Klaus Dieter Pfeil ............................................................ 95 XII. 14. September: Besuch des Herzl Museums und des Militärfriedhofs, Yad Vashem (Gedenkstätte), Absalom-Höhle (Tropfsteinhöhle), Ausstellungseröffnung im Obersten Gerichtshof von Jochen Kobow und Friedrich Battenberg .................................................. 104 XIII. 15. September: Besuch des Westjordanlands, von Ramallah und Nabi Saleh, von Eva Streng .................................................................................................................................... 111 XIV. 16. September: Altstadt von Jerusalem (Ölberg, Heilige Maria Magdalena Kloster, Garten Gethsemane, Kirche Aller Nationen, Bethesda, Via Dolorosa, Grabeskirche), Herodion von Benedikt Vianden ........................................................................................... 119 Anlagen: ............................................................................................................................................ 130 Anl. a) Karte, historisch ........................................................................................................ 130 Anl. b) Karte, wirtschaftlich .................................................................................................. 131 Anl. c) Karten, Geologie, Grundwasservorkommen ............................................................ 132 Anl. d) Die Reisegruppe: Gruppenbild und Teilnehmendenliste .......................................... 133 3 Evenarí-Forum / Israel 2017 Vorwort Dies ist der Bericht zur nunmehr fünften Israel-Exkursion, die das „Evenarí-Forum für Deutsch-Jüdische Studien“ hat durchführen können. Nach den Fahrten im September- Oktober 2007, im Februar-März 2009, September 2012 und im März 2015 ist es uns gelun- gen, einen festen Turnus im Abstand von zwei bis drei Jahren einzuführen. Dank einer sehr sorgfältigen Vorbereitung, die zum großen Teil organisatorisch von Volkhard Huth und Fried- rich Battenberg geleistet wurde, geriet auch die jüngste Exkursion, über die im Folgenden berichtet wird, zu einem großen Erfolg. Zu einem guten Teil haben die teilnehmenden Stu- dierenden und Gäste zu diesem Erfolg beigetragen: sie wirkten alle ohne Ausnahme mit großem Interesse mit, haben durch sachkundige Referate vor Ort hohes fachliches und per- sönliches Engagement gezeigt und so durchweg zu der ausgezeichneten Atmosphäre mit- verholfen, die die Fahrt für alle zu einem Erlebnis hat werden lassen, das in sehr angeneh- mer Erinnerung bleiben wird. Für einige hatte die Israel-Exkursion ihr Interesse an den politi- schen und gesellschaftlichen Problemen geweckt, mit der Folge, dass sie ihre Kenntnis durch weitere Forschungsaufenthalte intensivieren wollten. Teilgenommen hatten außer den Organisatoren bzw. Lehrkräften – neben den Professoren Dr. Friedrich Battenberg und Dr. Volkhard Huth noch Prof. Dr. Franz Fujara, der sich insbe- sondere um die naturwissenschaftlichen Themen gekümmert hatte - besonders Studierende der Geschichte, der Politologie und des Ingenieurwesens der TU Darmstadt (einige auch aus benachbarten Universitäten) sowie Gäste aus Darmstadt, Frankfurt und Wiesbaden. Wie in den vergangenen Jahren hatten wir auch diesmal wieder mit dem israelischen Reisebüro „Amiel-Tours“ (Shalom-Reisen) zusammengearbeitet. Auch Dany Walter war wieder als sachkundiger und stets unterhaltsamer Reiseleiter dabei, im Gespann mit dem humorvollen und versierten Busfahrer Shraga Hillil, mit dem wir längst freundschaftlich verbunden sind. Dieser war zuständig für das mittägliche Picknickangebot, das wir unterwegs an malerisch gelegenen Rastplätzen genießen konnten. Beiden sei auch an dieser Stelle herzlich gedankt. Ziel der Exkursion war es vor allem, unter dem Schwerpunktthema „Energie in Israel“ her- auszufinden, wie der hohe Energiebedarf eines hochtechnisierten Landes befriedigt wird und inwieweit erneuerbare Energien (vor allem Sonnen- und Windenergie) eingesetzt werden, um den hohen Lebensstandard gewährleisten zu können. Da die meisten Studierenden ebenso wie viele der mitreisenden Gäste das Land und seine Kultur noch nicht kannten, führte uns die Reise auch dieses Mal wieder wie schon in den vergangenen Jahren an viele historische Stationen, durch urtümliche Wüsten- und Kraterlandschaften ebenso wie durch Ausgrabungsstätten, zu einer Beduinensiedlung wie auch zu dem mondänen Hafenort Eilat mit seinem einzigartigen Unterwasserobservatorium. Höhepunkt war erneut Jerusalem. Doch 4 Evenarí-Forum / Israel 2017 auch der israelisch-palästinensische Konflikt wurde durch Begegnungen und Gespräche im Westjordanland in den Blick genommen. Von besonderem Interesse war dabei die kleine arabische Siedlung Nabi Saleh, die durch eine benachbarte israelische Siedlung bedroht und teilweise ihrer Wasserressourcen beraubt wurde. Ins Blickfeld kamen dabei nicht zuletzt die Sorgen der Palästinenser, die dort durch friedlichen Widerstand international Aufsehen erre- gen konnten. Unsere Reiseroute erstreckte sich diesmal von Tel Aviv-Jaffa und Rehovot an der Mittel- meerküste aus in die Negev-Wüste nach Süden über Be‘er Sheva und Avdat bis nach Eilat am Roten Meer, in den Osten hinein bis an das Tote Meer ins Jordantal hinauf bis zur Aus- grabungsstätte der antiken Metropole Bet Shean; sodann weiter im Norden wurden an der Mittelmeerküste das antike Caesarea Maritima sowie das modernere Haifa mit seinem „Technion“ erreicht. Von dort aus ging es wieder in südwestlicher Richtung nach Jerusalem, unseren letzten Standort, von dem aus wiederum einige umliegende Ziele erreicht werden konnten. Um den Studierenden die Teilnahme an der Exkursion finanziell zu erleichtern, konnten diesmal Zuschüsse der „ENTEGA Stiftung“ sowie bei der „Vereinigung von Freunden der Technischen Universität zu Darmstadt e. V.“ eingeworben werden. Hierfür sei den Unterstüt- zern auch an dieser Stelle herzlich gedankt. Angesichts der vergleichsweise knappen Vorbe- reitungszeit war die Einwerbung weiterer Drittmittel nicht mehr möglich, zumal frühere Unter- stützer der Forumsexkursionen nicht mehr zur Verfügung standen. Immerhin durften die Stu- dierenden des Instituts für Geschichte an der TU Darmstadt jeweils einen weiteren Zuschuss in Anspruch nehmen, wofür dem Geschäftsführenden Direktor des Instituts, Herrn Prof. Dr. Jens Ivo Engels, herzlich gedankt sei. Der Aufbau des nachstehenden Exkursionsberichts ist wie folgt angelegt: Jedem einzelnen Reisetag ist
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