HORSEMANSHIP Extension Bulletin 536 Revised August 1962 Extension Service Institute of Agricultural Sciences Washington State University Pullman HORSEMANSHIP

By M. E. Ensminger, Chairman of the Department of Animal Science, Washington State University.

Riding cannot be learned by merely reading a set of instructions. It can be mastered only after patient practice under a competent instructor. This bulletin gives some basic principles of horsemanship and information about equipment to help beginners and to refresh the memories of experienced horsemen. . The basic steps in learning to ride are: Becoming familiar with the and equipment, and then learning to use that equipment properly. Knowledge of cor­ rect grooming and care of the horse; care of equipment, saddling, bridling, and leading is also essential.

SOME RULES OF GOOD HORSEMANSHIP

Handling placed just of the withers; it should not • Approach a horse from his left. Never walk or bear down on or rub the withers and it should stand behind a horse unannounced; let him not be placed too far back. The should know you are there by speaking and placing be fastened snugly and should not be too close your hand on him. Otherwise, you may get to th~ forelegs. Be sure that the (or kicked. ) fits comfortably and that the or strap is flat in the chin groove and • Pet a horse by first placing your hand on his fastened correctly. shoulder and neck. Don't dab at the end of his nose. • Mount and dismount from the left side. Make the horse stand still until the rider is properly • When leading a horse, grasp the close seated in the or has dismounted. to the on the left side. • Assume the correct seat for the style of riding • Walk the horse to and from the . This intended. keeps him from running home and refusing to leave the stable. Controlling the Mount • Retain the proper tension on the reins; avoid Saddling and Mounting either tight or dangling reins. • See that the saddle blanket, numnah, pad, or • Keep your hands and voice quiet; avoid "clack­ corona is clean and free of dried sweat, hair, ing" to the horse, loud laughing, slapping him caked dirt, or rough places. Any of these can with the ends of the reins, or screaming. cause sores on the horse's back. Never scream, no matter how excited or • Check the saddle and bridle (or hackamore) frightened you may be; it will only make before mounting. The saddle should fit and be matters worse.

2 • Keep the horse under control at all times. If trees, bridges, noises, dogs, and children. In you are riding a runaway horse, try to stop other words, think ahead of your horse. him by sawing the bit back and forth to break • Walk the horse across bridges, through under­ his hold on the bit and his stride; if you are passes, and over pavements and slippery roads. in an open space, pull one hard enough to force him to circle. • Practice firmness with the horse and make him Riding in Groups obey your wishes, but treat him with under­ • Keep abreast-about 5 feet apart-or keep a standing. full horse's length behind other mounts to • Never lose your temper and jerk a horse. A prevent kicking. bad tempered person never makes for a good • Never dash up to another horse or group of tempered horse. horses at a gallop; to do so invites in jury to • If a horse rears, lean forward and loosen the yourself and the horses. reins. If you lean back and pull, the horse • Never rush past riders who are proceeding at rna y fall over backward. a slower gait; it may startle both the horses • Pull up the reins of a bucking horse and keep and riders and cause an accident. Instead, ap­ his head up. proach slowly and pass cautiously on the left • If the horse starts backing, loosen the reins and side. urge him forward with your legs. Don't hold • Wait quietly when one person has to dismount, the reins too tightly when the horse is stand­ as when closing a gate. Do not run off and ing still. leave that person. • Never race after a mounted runaway horse­ Considering the Horse it will only make him run faster. Instead, if pos­ • Warm up the horse gradually; walk him first, sible, another rider should circle and come up in front of him. In case a rider is thrown, then jog him slowly. stop the other horses and keep quiet; generally • Slow down when making a sharp turn. the loose horse will return to the group where • Walk the horse when going up or down a hill; he may be caught. running may injure his legs and wind. Do not race horses; when so handled, horses form bad habits and may get out of control. • Vary the gaits and do not force the horse to After the Ride take a rapid gait-canter, rack, or trot-for • Bring the horse in cool; walk him at the end more than half a mile at a time. of the ride. • Do not allow the horse to gorge on water when he is hot; water a warm horse slowly­ On Roadways just a few swallows at a time. • Keep to the right side of a road except when • Groom the horse thoroughly after each ride. passing, and never allow your horse to wander • Wash the bit off carefully before it is hung in all over the road. Give right of way courteously. the tackroom. Remove hair and sweat from • Keep the horse moving when a car passes. If the saddle and girth before putting them on you stop, he may act up or back into the pass­ the rack. Wash all leather equipment with ing vehicle. saddle soap at frequent intervals to preserve • Anticipate such objects as cars, stones, paper, the leather and keep it pliable.

3 Panel

Stirrup leather

THE

Wool lining Rope stra Back housing lace str•n•[J-~· or :: back jockey Skirt ---~~r-.-~~ Dee ring Front jockey .a seat jockey, one piece

Leather flank Frorit tie girth billet strop or cinch strop

Stirrup leottier

THE EQUIPMENT After the horse has been ridden a few minutes, Although there are many different saddles, the girth should always be re-examined and the English saddle and the western saddle are tightened if necessary. The saddle should be the two basic types. cinched tightly enough so that it will not turn when mounting, but not so tightly that it causes English Saddles discomfort to the horse. The English saddle includes flat saddles modi­ The length of will depend upon the fied for training, racing, jumping, park riding, type of riding. The length may vary from very and polo. English saddles always have relatively short on running horses to quite long on stock flat seats and are lightly constructed. This is the horses. The stirrup leather on English saddles saddle commonly used on bridle paths in the city, should always be turned so that the flat side of especially in the East. The English saddle allows the leather comes against the leg of the rider. the finished rider to show his best in riding form, For correct posting, in English riding, the skill and balance. stirrup straps or stirrup leathers must be adjusted Western Saddles to the right length. If the stirrups are too short, posting will be high and exaggerated. For English The western saddle has a metal or wooden riding, the stirrups can be adjusted to near the tree; a pommel topped with a horn for roping; correct length before mounting by making them a comparatively deep seat; a cantle; heavy skirts; and heavy stirrups. The stirrups may be either hooded or open. The western saddle is primarily a work saddle. It is designed for comfort during FINGERS ON RIGHT ARM ali-day riding and to provide enough strength POMMEL FULLY EXTENDED to stand up under the_strain of roping. However it is heavy, hot in the summer, and in pleasure riding it tempts the rider to "pull leather" as a substitute for skill and balance. The average western saddle weights from 3 5 to 40 pounds. Saddling the Mount Regardless of the type of saddle, it should be placed on the horse's back so that the girth will come about 4 inches to the rear of the point of the horse's elbow. When first adjusted, the girth should be loose enough to allow a finger between it and the horse's belly. After tightening the saddle, it is always a good practice to "un­ track" the horse by leading him ahead several LEFT SNAFFEL paces before mounting. This untracking does two REIN things. First, if the horse is the kind that blows up so that he cannot be cinched snugly, the un­ tracking will usually cause him to relax. Second, if a horse has any bad habits, he will ofen get Checking English saddle stirrups for correct length. them out of his system before the rider mounts.

5 ,...... -Headstall ring , · dee ~C_/---Mouthpiece ) -Points of attachment Eyelet for for curb chain lip stra~----- ttJ· l Rings for two sets of relps

PELHAM -Used in a . Pelham Bridle for WEYMOUTH CURB BIT-Used with hunters, polo ponies, a.l'ld pleasure horses. in Weymouth Bridle for 3- and 5-gaited horses.

~· '). ~ .. tJ· ~· ...... -Dee.~... ~:e . l 6:~

WALKING HORSE BIT - Fre­ SNAFFLE BIT__;The most widely DEE RACE BIT-Often used on quently used .. on W'alking horses. JJsed of aJL.bits. Thoroughb.red . race· horses ~

-Curb strap

HACKAMORE BIT - Usea on ROPER CURVED CHEEK BIT-­ SPADE MOUTH BIT-Used on most cow po~ies. Used ..?" many roping horse~. . many stock horses.

~)·--~------Rein ring h':'!I~------Rein ring ~------Mouthpiece ::--.....---~~~ Mouthpiece 'GF!il... -----Link

~AR ~I! -Used on trotting har ;: HALF-CH~EK ... SNA~~LE ,BIT - LIVERPOOL .BIT _:.A cutb bif used .. ness horses that carry check .· reins Used on harness race horses, road­ on heavy harness horses. and .are driven with a strong hand. sters, and fine harness . horses. about 1 inch shorter than the length of the rider's and arm with fingers extended. When the rider is in the saddle with his legs extended downward Bridles may be single or double. A single and his feet out of the stirrups, the bottom of bridle has one bit; a usually has the stirrup iron should touch just below his ankle both a snaffle bit and a curb bit, two headstalls, bone. and two pairs of reiL For western riding, the length of stirrups All bridles should be properly fitted. The will be about right when there is approximately headstall should neither slide back on the horse's 3 inches clearance between the saddle tree and neck nor pull up against his ears. The cheek the crotch of the rider standing in the stirrups. straps should be adjusted so that the bit rests easily in the mouth without drawing up the corners. The throat latch should be buckled Bits loosely enough to allow a hand to pass between The bit is the most important part of the it and the horse's throat. bridle. In fact, the chief purpose of the head­ Light bridles and bits usually indicate com­ stall is to hold the bit in its place in the horse's petent horsemen and well mannered horses. mouth. There are many types of bits, but all The hackamore has a pair of reins and an provide communication between the hands of the ordinary headstall that holds a braided-rawhide rider or driver and the mouth of the horse. The or rope with a knot-arrangement under snaffle bit is the most widely used variety. the horse's jaw. A hackamore can be used to con-

Crown piece or headstall-----lr

Brow band

Cheek piece----•

Covesson Noseband Coves son Nose band

Snaffle bit-....l.\!:Y-...... \\\1 Weymouth curb bit -..Jfo.:-.-..1 Curb chain ---t~~

Lip strap --~~r---.:!IWC::-,,u•

WEYMOUTH BRIDLE-A double­ PELHAM BRIDLE- A single-bitted, ONE EAR (Split Ear) BRIDLE bitted, double-reined bridle used double-reined bridle used on hunters, -Often used on wor-king on 3- ard 5-gaitep saddle horses. polo ponies, pleasure horses. stock horses.

7 trol and train a young horse without injuring his mouth. It is often used to train cow ponies and polo ponies. A properly adjusted hackamore rests on the horse's nose, about 4 inches from the top of the nostrils or on the base of the cheek bones. It should be loose enough to allow two fingers to be passed between it and the Jaw. Other Equipment There are so many kinds of equipment that BASAL .HACKAMORE- PopulfEir not all can be mentioned, but some of the gen­ breakin9 hof.ses:t erally used articles are saddle blankets, , cavessons, martingales, and breast plates and breast collars. Saddle Blankets A saddle blanket, numnah, pad, or corona is almost always used with a western saddle; but it. is optional with an English saddle. When used, the saddle blanket or pad should be placed well forward on the horse's neck and then slid back into position to smooth down the hair. It should lie smoothly on the back in a position where 2 Y2 to 4 inches of it will show in front. of the saddle. After being used, the blanket or pad should be hung up to dry. Then it should be brushed thoroughly to remove hair and dried sweat. Nosebands The noseband is a wide leather band which passes around the nose about two finger widths below the cheek bones. It is used to keep the mouth shut and the bit in position, to furnish a point of attachment for a standing , or to enhance the appearance of the bridle. Most riding bridles are equipped with nosebands. The noseband should be adjusted so that it is about 1 Y2 inches below the cheek bones; and it should be loose enough so that two fingers may be placed under it. Cavessons The cavesson is a heavy headstall with an additional strap known as the jowl strap and a hinged, jointed, heavily padded metal noseband Girth loop Tie down strap, \ leading

with a ring at the top for the attachment of the a straight line from bit to pommel with the lange. The cavesson, with the· lange, is used for horse's head in a normal position. exercising, disciplining, and training .horses. Breast Plates, Breast Collars Another type of cavesson is used on many The breast plate consists of a short, wide strap bridles. It is the narrow strap around the nose that passes over the neck in front of the withers; that is held in place by another strap which goes two adjustable straps that run from the neck over the head and behind the ears. The cavesson­ strap back to the saddle; two adjustable straps type bridle was originally designed to prevent that run down the front of the shoulders to a the horse from opening his mouth too wide and ring between the forelegs; and another adjustable thereby escaping the discipline of the bit. strap that runs from the ring between the fore­ Martingales legs to the girth. Sometimes the breast plate is There are two kinds of martingales: standing equipped with a strap that runs to the noseband (sometimes called a tiedown) and running (ring) . and acts as a tiedown. The standing martingale is a strap that runs be­ On slender-bodied horses a breast plate keeps tween the forelegs from the girth to the nose­ the saddle from slipping to the rear. It should band. It has a light neck strap to keep the be adjusted as loosely as possible, but still hold martingale from getting under the horse's feet the saddle in place. Make allowance for move­ when he lowers his head. This standing mar­ ment of the horse's neck. The breast collar serves tingale keeps the horse from raising his head the same purpose as the breast plate. beyond a certain level without being cramped. It is generally used on saddle horses that rear Care of Tack and on polo ponies and stock horses that throw Good tack is expensive and deserves good their heads up in response to a severe curb or a care. If properly treated, it will last for years. heavy hand. Ideally, each item of equipment should be Some horsemen prefer to use the running cleaned after each use and at frequent intervals martingale on horses that habitually rear. They when not in use. This is not always practical, feel that the standing martingale sets the horse's however. Nevertheless, at regular and frequent head too high. The running martingale is not intervals, all leather should be cleaned with sad­ attached to the horse's head. It ends in two rings dle soap and treated with neat's-foot oil. In ad­ through which the reins pass. This arrangement dition to extending the life of leather, proper care keeps the horse from raising his head too high, gives softness and pliability and lessens saddle but allows more freedom of movement so that and harness sores. While cleaning, inspect the it can be used in jumping. A running martingale bridle reins, stirrup leathers, and girth because is adjusted correctly when the snaffle reins form the rider's safety depends upon these straps.

9 CLOTHES FOR VARI~

ENGLISH RIDING WESTER

Informal, Morning or Semi-Formal, Afternoon Formal, Evening Formal, Evening Afternoon Classes or Evening Classes Five-Gaited Classes Three-Gaited Classes Western

COAT: Tweeds, checks, COAT: Gabardine, wor­ COAT: One button, in­ COAT: One button, invert­ COAT: Men- stockmen gabardine, or twill. sted, or other men's wear verted pleats. Tuxedo mode ed pleats. Tuxedo mode coat. Women-coat; suec Brown coat with tan, brown, materials. Inverted pleats in black or midnight blue in black or midnight blue or leather jacket can ~ or green jodphurs; black in back and one or two gabardine or dress wor­ gabardine or dress wor­ worn for pleasure ridin• with gray jodphurs; or blue buttons in front. Dark sted; soft pastel colors can sted; soft pastel colors can Where a coat is worn, with blue tweed or dark colors preferred. Linen or also be used. also be used. Summer­ matches the frontier pant blue jodphurs. Any con­ tropical worsted for sum­ white coat with shawl col­ making a western outfit. servative color is accept­ mer. lar, satin lapels. able. Two- or three-button coat.

JODPHURS: Gabardine, JODPHU RS: Same mater­ JODPHURS: With black JODPHURS: With black PANTS: Frontier pants c whipcord, or cavalry twill ial and color as coat. Ken­ coat- black jodphurs in coat- black jodphurs in gabardine, whipcord, ca• in colors to match or con­ tucky style - no flare at matching material. With matching material. With airy twill, or cotton twill. trast with coat. Kentucky hip, bell bottoms, no cuffs. pastel coat-black or mid­ white or pastel coat­ style-no flare at hip, bell night blue jodphurs. black or midnight blue jod­ bottoms. phurs. Satin stripe down outside of jodphurs.

VEST: Optional-light solid VEST: Solid color or tatter­ VEST: White pique. VEST: White pique. VEST: Optional-leatht color or tattersall check. sall check. or beaded vest.

SHIRT: Man's shirt, white SHIRT: Man's shirt, white SHIRT: Wh,ite dress shirt SHIRT: White dress shirt SHIRT: Western shirt i or colored broadcloth or or light color to match with wing c o II a r and with wing c o II a r and solid color or plaid t oxford cloth; or plain or suit. starched or pleated front; starched or pleated front; match or contrast wit fancy ratcatcher shirt in or man's shirt. or man's shirt. frontier pants. pleasure riding.

TIE: Contrasting four-in­ TIE: Matching or contrast­ TIE: With dress shirt­ TIE: With dress shirt­ Tl E: String tie or Rene hand tie or bow tie. ing four-in-hand tie. white bow tie; or black, white bow tie; or black, type rolled silk scarf. maroon, or midnight blue maroon, or midnight blue bow tie and matching cum­ bow tie and matching merbund. Continental tie cummerbund. Continental is also acceptable. · With tie is also acceptable. man's shirt- dark four-in­ With man's shirt- dark hand or bow tie. four-in-hand or bow tie.

HAT: Semi-hard or hard HAT: Hard derby to match HAT: Hard derby. HAT: Silk top hat. HAT: Western hat. derby to match jodphurs suit. or coat. Soft felt is also acceptable.

BOOTS: Strap or elastic BOOTS: Black or brown B 0 0 T S: Black jodphur B 0 0 T S: Black jodphur BOOTS: Western boots. jodphur boots to match jodphur boots to match boots. boots. jodphurs. suit.

GLOVES: Optional- nat­ GLOVES: Optional- nat­ GLOVES: White gloves. GLOVES: White gloves. GLOVES: Optional-bud ural color pigskin or string ural color pigskin or same skin roping gloves. gloves with leather palms. color as suit.

ACCESSORIES: Cuff links, ACCESSORIES: Tie clasp, ACCESSORIES: Cuff links, ACCESSORIES: Cuff links, ACCESSORIES: Hand tie pin, belt, riding . cuff links, belt, riding formal shirt studs, riding formal shirt studs, walk-trot carved belt or silver bel whip. Optional-. whip. stick of cane or hickory. buckle. Follow show rule in regard to carrying ropt or reata, , and hob bles. Optional-spurs anc chaps.

SIDE SADDLE FORWARD SEAT OR HUNTING-Dark melton habit with matching skirt; black boots without tops; hunting silk hat, hatguard required; white or colored rain gloves. Neckwear, coat collar, vest, sandwich case, and flask same as Member of a Hunt. Optional-spurs. SIDE SADDLE SHOW SEAT-Habit of dark blue, black or oxford gray

10 )US TYPES OF RIDING

RIDING HUNTING AND JUMPING

Western Member of Horsemanship Hunting Equitation a Hunt Jumping - ~ COAT: Western-cut coat. COAT: Black hunt coat of COAT: Black hunt coat of COAT: Black hunt coat of COAT: Hunt coat in any melton, heavy twill, or tweed or melton. If mem­ melton, heavy twill, or shad­ color, solid or checks. ~.h~d~~lly. Men m?y wear bers of a recognized hunt belly. Men may wear "pink" pmk coat and, 1f mem­ club, men may wear metal coat or scarlet cutaway bers in good standing of a buttons with the club in­ hunt livery. Collar should be recognized hunt club, the signia and women may same material and color as club insignia on coat but­ wear black bone .buttons coat unless member has tons. with the club initial carved been invited to wear hunt in the button. colors. Buttons should con­ form to hunt livery.

P A N T S : Frontier pants, BREECHES: With black BREECHES: Buff breeches. BREECHES: With black B R E E C H E S : Color to conservative in color. coat-brown, tan, or buff coat - b u f f or brown match or contrast with breeches. With "pink" breeches. W it h "pink" coat. coat-white breeches. coat-white breeches.

VEST: None. VEST: Hunting yellow or VEST: Yellow or hunt colors VEST: Buff, yellow, or hunt VEST: Solid color or checks. hunt colors of member. of member. colors of member.

S H I R T : Western shirt, SHIRT: Shirt with collar SHIRT: Shirt with collar SHIRT: Shirt with collar SHIRT: Stock shirt with matching or contrasting band. band. band. stock, ratcatcher shirt, or color with frontier pants. man's shirt.

Tl E: String tie or Reno­ STOCK: White stock, fast­ STOCK: White stock, fast­ STOCK: White stock, fast­ TIE: Four-in-hand tie or type rolled silk scarf. ened with plain gold safety ened with plain gold safety ened with plain gold safety stock. pin. pin. pin.

HAT: Western hat. HAT: Hunting derby or HAT: Hunting cap or der­ HAT: Hunting silk hat, hat­ HAT: Hunting derby or silk hat. If you have your by, depending on age. guard required. hunt cap. colors and are not a mas­ ter, professional, whipper­ in, or huntsman, you have to wear a top hat when you wear a "pink" coat.

BOOTS: Western boots. BOOTS: Black boots with BOOTS: Black hunt boots BOOTS: Regular hunting BOOTS: Black or brown ·~ tabs flying free. Tabs sewn with tabs sewn on. boots with tabs. Black calf. hunting boots. on. Black boot straps; or white boot straps with ~ white breeches. GLOVES: Optional-buck­ GLOVES: Yellow or white GLOVES: Optional. G L 0 V E S : Heavy wash GLOVES: Natural color skin roping gloves. leather. String gloves un­ leather or brown leather. pigskin or brown or yellow der girth for rain. String gloves for rain. string gloves.

ACCESSORIES: F o II ow ACCESSORIES: Stock pin, ACCESSORIES: Stock pin, ACCESSORIES: Boot gar­ ACCESSORIES: Belt, hunt­ show rules in regard to car­ belt, hunting , spurs unrowelled spurs. Optional ter, spurs, whip, sandwich ing crop, spurs, stock pin. rying rope or reata and with black straps. -crops or bats. case, flask. hobbles. Optional- spurs, chaps, shotgun chaps, or chinks.

with matching or contrasting skirt; black jodphur boots; bow or four-in-hand tie; white shirt; hard derby; white or pigskin gloves. PLANTATION WALKING HORSE OR TENNESSEE WALKING HORSE-Attire should be same as listed for five-gaited, except that a pork pie hat should be substituted.

11 RIDING Mounting and Dismounting horse's croup and back, being careful not to kick him. Before mounting, take two precautions. Al­ ways check the girth for tightness and the stirrup 5. Ease down into the saddle; don't punish straps or leather for length. A loose girth may or frighten the horse by suddenly dropping your entire weight into the saddle. Then, without look­ let the saddle slip down on the horse's side or belly-especially during mounting or dismount­ ing down, shove your right foot into the right stirrup. Adjust both stirrups under the balls of ing. If the girth is properly adjusted, you will have to force to get more than the first half of the feet and at the same time gather the reins. your fingers under it. 6. Sit easily in the saddle, be alert, and keep When all precautions have been taken, the your head up. Allow your legs to hang comfort­ steps in mounting and dismounting are as fol­ ably with the heels well down and the toes turned lows: out slightly. This position permits proper leg 1. Mount from the left or "near" side of the contact with the horse and a more secure seat. horse. Stand beside the horse's left front leg and Essentially, correct dismounting is just the face diagonally toward the croup.* Then gather reverse of mounting. Gather the reins in the left the reins in the left hand, adjusting them so that hapd, place the left hand on the horse's withers a gentle pressure-restraining, but not backing and the right hand on the pommel of the sad­ the animal-is applied equally on each side of dle. Then stand up in the stirrups, kick the right the horse's mouth. Then place the left hand on foot free from the stirrup, transfer weight to the the horse's withers or just in front of them. left foot as you swing your right leg backward Without letting go of the reins, open the fingers across the horse's back and croup, and shift the of your left hand and get a handful of the right hand to the cantle (or to the horn in west­ horse's mane; this will give you more stability ern riding). Descend to ·the ground and remove and keep you from jerking the horse's mouth. the left foot from the stirrup. 2. Turn the stirrup iron one-quarter turn Although the above outline lists a series of toward you, steady the stirrup with the right steps for mounting and dismounting, each step is not so distinct and different that there needs hand, and shove the left foot into it. to be a pause b~tween steps. Rather, when prop­ 3. Hop off the right foot, swing around to erly executed, mounting and dismounting are a face the horse, grasp the cantle of the saddle series of rhythmic movements and the entire oper­ with the right hand (in western riding, the right ation is done so smoothly and gracefully that it is hand is usually placed on the horn instead of the difficult to tell where one stage ends and the cantle), and spring upward until you are in a next one begins. standing position with the left leg straight and the left knee against the horse. 4. Lean on the left arm, shift the right hand Holding the Reins from the cantle to the pommel (usually the right Rein pressure should never be more than side of the pommel) . At the same time swin a absolutely necessary. And, the reins should not ' b the fully extended right leg slowly over the be used to stay on the horse. A horse's mouth

* Another common method of mounting begins with facing is tender, but it can be toughened by unnecessary to_ward the front of the horse while standing opposite the left roughness. Good hands on the reins move in stirrup. The method given in Point 1 above is considered safer for the beginner, however, for if the horse should start rhythm with the head of the horse. Beginners to mov_e as he is being mounted, the rider is automatically swung Into the saddle and is not left behind. are likely to let their hands bob too much, thus

12 I. Mount from left side: gather reins in left 2. Turn stirrup iron one-quarter turn. steady hand, place hand <>:n or in front of withers. it wit~ right hand,"shove left foot into it. METHODS OF HOLDING THE REINS ENGLISH STYLE-DOUBLE-REIN BRIDLE

LEFT HAND

R. SNAFFLE--~-.~-- R. CURB L.CURB L. SNAFFLE

REINS IN ONE HAND

REINS IN TWO HANDS

METHODS OF HO.LDING THE REINS ENGLISH STYLE-SINGLE-REIN BRIDLE

REINS IN TWO HANDS REINS IN ONE HAND

METHODS OF HOLDING THE REINS WESTERN STYLE

Left hand around re ins, with both reins Both reins in left hand; with one com ­ coming into hand between the index or fore­ ing between iddle and index fingers, and finger and the thumb. Bight falls to the the other between the index and thumb bock of the hand . (In other words, the index finger splits the reins). Bight falls to bock of hand. jerking the horse's mouth unnecessarily. The de­ assures greater security for the rider and more sired "light hands" exist when a light feeling freedom of action for the horse. extends to the horse's mouth via the reins. The balanced seat may be defined as that The rider may hold the reins either in the position which requires the least effort for the left hand alone or in both hands. In western rider to remain in the saddle and interferes least riding, only one hand, usually the left, holds the with the horse's movements and equilibrium. reins. The rider must be "with the horse," rather than When holding the reins with both hands, as ahead of him or behind him. When a balanced is usual in show ring riding, hunting, jumping, seat is maintained, the center of gravity of the and training, toss the bight (ends of the reins) rider is directly over the center of gravity of the to the right or off side of the horse's neck. horse. With the proper seat, the rider will need When holding the reins in the left hand only the minimum use of aids to get immediate alone, as in English style, cross country riding, and correct response from the horse at any gait. or in western riding, let the bight fall to the left The balanced seat is achieved mainly by shift­ side of the horse's neck. The right hand should ing the body from the hips up. Knees, legs, be dropped loosely down the side or placed com­ ankles, and thighs usually stay in a fixed position. fortably on the thigh of the right leg. However, The rider will lean forward more or less according many western riders discourage placing the right to the speed and gait of t~e horse, but he should hand on the thigh, because of the hazard of always stay in balance over his base of support. bracing themselves in this manner. Instead, they The eyes, chin, and chest are lifted to permit prefer holding the right hand about waist high clear vision ahead and normal posture of the back. without resting it on anything. In any case, the The greater the speed and the inclination of free hand should never be placed on the pommel the body forward, the shorter the stirrups. The of an English saddle or on the pommel or horn jockey rides his mount with very short stirrups of a western saddle. and reins and a pronounced forward position. He rises out of his saddle and supports himself The Seat almost entirely with the stirrups, knees, and legs. Correct riding includes good rhythm and In steeplechasing, the position of the rider is less balance. The rider's movements must be in com­ extreme than in flat racing since it is necessary plete harmony with the horse's movements. This to combine speed with security.

WALK TROT GALLOP

15 Correct show seat and attire for a five-gaited horse. Correct show seat and attire for a three-gaited horse.

Correct show seat and attire at the running walk. Correc:t western seat and riding attire.

16 There are different seats or positions for dif­ may be dropped loosely down the side or held ferent styles of riding. Fashion, particularly in about waist high without resting it on anything. the show ring, also decrees that certain form be In cutting horses or in , the left followed. hand may rest on the saddle horn. "Sitting" the saddle is required at all gaits. Neither posting When riding a three- or five-gaited horse, at the trot (jog) nor standing in the stirrups at all gaits and either on a bridle path or in the the trot or canter (lope) is accepted in western show ring, the rider assumes the show or park style riding. Because speed and agility are fre­ seat. He sits erect and in the lowest part of the quently required of stock horses, a firm seat and saddle with a space of at least a hand's breadth superior balance are important. between the back of the jodphurs and the cantle. In riding hunters-including cross country The ball of the foot rests directly over the stirrup riding-and jumpers, the stirrups are shortened iron, knees are in, heels are lower than toes, and and the foot is shot home with the stirrup iron the hands and reins are in such a position that resting against the heel. The upper part of the the horse will carry his head high and his neck rider's body is thrust forward, giving the "forward arched. In this position, the body is easily erect seat," and a comparatively loose rein is kept. The and balanced on a base consisting of seat, thighs, higher the jump, the shorter the stirrups should knees, and stirrups. The chest is high and just be and the more pronoun~ed the forward inclina­ forward of true vertical. The back is hollow, the tion of the body. Most polo players prefer to waist relaxed, the head erect, and the shoulders use medium length stirrups with feet shot home. square. This permits good grip when turning at full When using a stock saddle and riding western speed. The stirrups are also short enough to al­ style, the rider should sit straight, keep the legs low the player to stand up in the stirrup irons fairly straight--or bent slightly forward at the when making a long reach for the ball. knees-and rest the ball of the foot on the Each of the styles of riding differs in appear­ stirrup tread with the heels down. The left hand ance, but the end result is the same-balanced with the reins should be carried in a relaxed man­ riding. An accomplished horseman or horse­ ner slightly above and ahead of the horn. The woman can and does change the seat to meet the right hand should be placed on the thigh; or it style of riding.

GROOMING

Proper grooming ts necessary to make the thoroughly at least once each day. Those that are horse attractive and to keep the best health and worked or exercised should be groomed both be­ condition. Grooming cleans the hair, keeps the fore leaving the stable and immediately upon skin functioning more naturally, lessens skin their return. diseases and parasites, and improves the condition The recommended grooming procedure for and fitness of the muscles. heated, wet, or sweating animals is as follows: Grooming should be rapid and thorough, but 1. Wipe off and put away equipment used as not so rough or severe as to cause irritation­ fast as possible. either of the skin or the temper. Take special 2. Remove excess perspiration with a sweat care to keep all parts of the body clean and free scraper and rub briskly with a grooming or drying from any foulness. cloth to dry the coat partially. Horses that are stabled should be groomed 3. Blanket and walk the horse until cool.

17 Body Br:.ush Dandy Brush Curry Comb

'.\-. ~1\L··J· · "~ L~.t r ..r : ~.. •·. ~•.. r·l m· . .. ' ~I .. rI .~'. ·.·.~r ··~·. ~.-'• Hoof Pick ~ li ,it I1 1l l,~ It! !J.I Grooi'Jling Cloth (or hook)

Give him a couple of swallows of water every from the skin and is excellent for brushing the few minutes while cooling out. mane and tail. Idle horses that are on pasture do not need · Mane and tail comb: Convenient for combing daily grooming, but an occasional brushing of out a matted mane or tail. their coats is desirable. Grooming cloth, drying cloth: A suitable grooming cloth can be made from old toweling Grooming Equipment or old blankets. A convenient size is 18 to 24 There is hardly any limit to the kinds and inches square. The grooming cloth is used to styles of grooming equipment. However, the remove "dirt and dust from the coat; to wipe out articles shown here are as good as any and are the eyes, ears, nostrils, lips, and dock; and to adequate. give the coat a final sheen or polish. Also, it Rubber or metal curry comb: Used to groom may be used to dry or ruffle the coat before animals that have long, thick coats; to remove brushing. A suitable drying cloth can be made caked mud; to loosen matted scurf and dirt in the from an ordinary burlap bag. It is used to par­ hair; and to clean the brush. Use gently in small tially dry the coat of horses that have been circles rather than with pressure and in long worked. strokes. The metal curry comb should never be Sweat scraper: Used to remove excess pers­ used below the knees or hocks, about the head, piration from heated, wet, and sweating animals. or over bony prominences. Likewise, it should Hoof pick (or hook) : Used to clean out the not be used on animals that have been recently feet. clipped or that have a fine, thin coat of hair. A wisp of hay or the grooming cloth can be used Grooming Procedure on animals with fine, thin coats. To be sure that the horse will be groomed Body brush: Principal tool used for groom­ thoroughly and that no body parts will be missed, ing. It can be used for brushing the entire body. follow a definite order of grooming. The groom­ Dandy brush: Made of stiff fiber, usually ing procedure may be varied somewhat to suit about two inches in length. It can be used in­ individual preferences; however, the following stead of the curry comb for removing light dirt procedure may be as good as any:

18 1. Clean out the feet: Use the hoof pick. Work side of the animal in the same order as the left from the heel toward the toe. Be sure to clean, side. out thoroughly the depressions between the frog 3. Brush the head,- comb and brush the mane and the bars. While cleaning the feet, inspect for and tail: Use the body brush to brush the head. thrush and loose shoes. Then use the mane and tail comb to comb out 2. Groom the body: With the curry comb in the mane and tail. Then brush the mane and the right hand and the brush in the left hand, tail with either the body brush or the dandy curry and brush the left side of the horse. Begin brush. Brush the mane downward. Clean the on the neck, then proceed in order to the breast, tail by brushing upward, a few strands of hair at withers, shoulders, foreleg down to the knee, a time; or where a long and full tail is desired, back, side, belly, croup, and hind leg down to the pick or separate out a few hairs at a time by hock. Then brush from the knee and hock down hand. Occasionally, the tail should be washed toward the hoofs. At frequent intervals, clean out with warm water and soap. the dust and hair from the brush with the curry 4. Wipe with grooming cloth: Use the comb and knock the curry comb against your grooming cloth to wipe about the ears, face, eyes, heel or the back of the brush to free it from dirt. nostrils, lips, sheath, and dock, and to give a final polish to the coat. Some horsemen prefer to curry first and then 5. Check the grooming: Check the thorough­ to follow with the brush, rather than to use both ness of grooming by passing the fingertips against tools at the same time. the natural lay of the hair. If the coat and skin Curry gently, but brush vigorously. To brush, are not clean, the fingers will be dirtied and gray stand well away from the animal, keep a stiff arm lines on the coat will show where the fingers and throw the weight of the body against the passed. Also check for cleanliness in such fre­ brush. Brush the hair in the direction of its natural quently neglected areas as the ears, face, eyes, lay. Brush with care in the regions of the flanks, nostrils, lips, sheath, and dock. between the fore and hind legs, at the point of 6. Wash and disinfect grooming equipment: the elbows, and in the fetlocks. Grooming equipment should be washed with After you finish grooming the left side of the warm water and soap often enough to keep it horse, transfer the brush to the right hand and clean. It should be disinfected when necessary the curry comb to the left and groom the right as a precaution against the spread of skin diseases.

SHOWING LIGHT HORSES

Showing to cessful horsemen when showing to halter are as Breeding classes are shown "in hand," which follows: means that they are exhibited at the halter, pre­ 1. Train the horse early. ferably, or when wearing a bridle. The halter 2. Groom the horse thoroughly. should be clean, properly adjusted, and fitted with 3. Dress neatly for the occasion. a fresh-looking leather or rope . If the horse 4. Enter the ring promptly and in tandem is shown when wearing a bridle, the leader should order when the class is called. Line up at the avoid jerking on the reins so hard that the horse's location requested by the ringmaster or the judge, mouth will be injured. or, if directed, continue to move around the ring The guiding principles followed by most sue- in tandem order.

19 5. Stand the horse squarely on all four feet, Most light horses are given early schooling by and with the fore feet on higher ground than trailing with the whip, but custom decrees show· the hind feet. The standing position of the horse ing them without this aid. If it is done, the should vary according to the breed. For example, trailer should follow at a proper distance, keep the Arabians and Quarter Horses are not stretched, animal moving in a straight line, avoid getting but American Saddle horses are stood with their between the judge and the horse, and always cross front legs straight under them and their hind over in front· of the horse at the turn. legs back slightly. Other breeds are generally 7. After walking down about 50 feet and placed in a slightly stretched position between walking back, and trotting down about 100 feet these two examples. When standing and facing and trotting back (to save time, the judge may the horse, hold the lead strap or rope in the have each horse walk down and trot back) set the left hand at least 10 to 12 inches from the halter horse up with reasonable promptness in front of ring and so that the horse takes a head-up position. the judge. Then, after the judge has given a quick 6. Unless the judge requests otherwise, when inspection, move to the location in the line indi­ called, the horse should first be shown at a walk cated by the ringmaster or judge, observing the and then at a trot. To move the horse, work as rules mentioned in point 5 above. follows: 8. Keep the horse posed at all times. Keep A. Either reduce the length of the lead strap one eye on the judge and the other on the horse. by a series of figure-8 folds or coils held in the 9. When the judge signals to change posi­ right hand, or hold the upper part of the lead tions, back the horse, or, if there is room, turn strap in the right hand and the folded or coiled him to the rear of the line, and approach the new end in the left hand and lead from the left side position from behind. of the horse. If the horse is well mannered, give 10. Avoid letting the horse kick when close him 2 to 3 feet of lead so that he can keep his to other horses. head, neck, and body in a straight line as he moves 11. Keep calm, confident, and collected. Re­ forward. But, keep the lead taut so that there is member that the nervous showman creates an continuous contact between the leader and the unfavorable impression. horse. Do not look back. 12. Work in close partnership with the B. Move the horse forward, smartly and animal. briskly, in a straight line for 50 to 100 feet as 13. Be courteous and respect the rights of directed, with the head up. other exhibitors. C. Turn to the right. That is, turn the horse 14. Do not stand between the judge and the away from you. If the horse is turned to the left, horse. he is more apt to step on you. Make the turn as 15. Be a good sport. Win without bragging effortless as possible and in as small a space as and lose without squealing. is practical. Oldtime draft horsemen, who have no peers in showing to halter, make the horse Performance Classes pivot around the leader. When showing at the The performance classes for horses are so trot, bring the horse to a walk and ease slightly many and varied that it is not possible to des­ to the left before turning. cribe them in a bulletin of this type. Instead, D. Show some knee action-by the leader­ see the official rule book of the American Horse when exhibiting the horse, without overdoing it. Shows Association and the rules printed in the E. Trail with a whip if permitted or desired. programs of locally approved horse shows.

Publ.ished and di.stribute.d in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 .and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Extension Serv1ee, C. A. Svmth, Duector, and the U.S. Department of Agnculture, cooperating. 15M-10-62