Wouldn’t you like to be here?

From the Western Arthurs to Federation Peak, South West Tasmania. Photo: Nina Gallo

The sad state of the Calna Creek Bridge, Great North Walk, June 2013. Photo: Roger Caffin Walk Safely—Walk with a Club T h e Bushwalker The Official Publication of Bushwalking NSW Inc Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 From the editor’s desk. . . ISSN 0313 2684 ur apologies to the NPA. They had asked us to feature some articles in the last issue to go with the back page advertisement, but their copy reached us two days too late. We have included some of it Editor: Roger Caffin O here instead. In addition, some of it was put on our website. [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: This issue includes part 3 of Yuri Bolotin’s article on their North-South Barry Hanlon Traverse of Wollemi NP. I know other people have done all sorts of N-S Proofreader: Roy Jamieson and W-E traverses over the years - for that matter my wife and I have done several of each. But many of these other traverses have been done in Confederation Officers: stages: ours were done that way. Yuri and friends went right through the President: David Trinder middle of the Park in one go. That would be one of the hardest walks on Administration Officer: the East Coast of in my opinion: 18 days of Wollemi scrub. [email protected] The front cover shows a walk radically different from Wollemi: it was Website: www.bushwalking.org.au taken on the beach of the Great South West Walk (GSWW) on the south Address all correspondence to: coast of Victoria. In the ordinary way you do an anti-clockwise loop from PO Box 119, Newtown, NSW 2042 Portland along the Glenelg to Nelson, then you come back along the beach to Portland. There are some rather cute campsites in the dunes with water supplies and lots of flotsam and jetsam. It was very different from Bushwalking NSW Inc represents Wollemi NP! approximately 66 Clubs with a total membership of about 8,700 Articles for Publication bushwalkers. We are always happy to receive pictures for the Inside Front Cover. If you would like to Formed in 1932, Bushwalking NSW see yours published, send them in. In particular, little 640 x 480 photos and, little provides a united voice on behalf of all photos from cheap phones are just not good enough: they simply do not print well bushwalkers on conservation, access enough at 300 dpi. We need the full-size originals, straight from the camera and uncropped and unretouched, so we can set them up for the printing process. and other issues. Apart from that, please keep those bushwalking articles rolling in. We need them. If People interested in joining a you are describing a walk somewhere, it would really help if you could give the reader bushwalking club may write to the (who may be from far away) some idea of where the walk is. We don’t need GRs, just a general idea. We need suitable photos for most every article, so please include a few. Bushwalking Administration Once again, note that little, cropped or shrunk photos will rarely be accepted. If you [email protected] want to include a DOC file or a PDF (in addition to the mandatory plain text file and for a list of Clubs, but a far more full-sized photos) to illustrate how the photos fit into the text, please do so as well. useful on-line list is available at the That can only help. Confederation website However, photos embedded in DOC or PDF files are not accepted by themselves, www.bushwalking.org.au, and neither are scans of standard photographic prints - with the possible exception of broken up into areas. There’s lots of historical items where the print is all that exists. Finished DOC and PDF articles are not other good stuff there too, including suitable by themselves either: we often have to rearrange the text to fit on the page with ads or other changes. Plain text plus original photos! the Australian Bushwalking FAQ. Finally, the opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of the Confederation or of any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own, are subject to change without explanation, and may be pretty biased anyhow. Roger Caffin Editor

Index Wouldn’t you like to be here? 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 From Tootie Creek to Kurrajong Heights 4 Control of feral animals back in the hands of NPWS 8 Car Accidents 8 A tour of the Budawangs 9 Historic Tracks around Mt Hotham 11 Castle Rocks, Munghorn Nature Reserve 14 Book Review 15 Top Walks in

Fron t Cov er: G reat So u t h W est W al k , Vi ct o ri a. Ph o t o : Ro ger C affi n .

West Keiwa Red Robin, Battery 9. Story on page 11

Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Wollemi Full North to South Traverse - Part 3 From Tootie Creek to Kurrajong Heights Yuri Bolotin Day 18 — September, 2012 (Parts 1 & 2 were in our Summer and Autumn 2013 issues) Wollemi National Park sign on road

The Traverse, 279 km and 12,627 m of ascent, took 18 days in was joined by Yuri Bolotin and Rodney Nelson on the first two September 2012. It went from the northernmost point of the sections; Ian and Yuri did the third section finishing at Kurrajong Park, about 1 km north of Phipps Cutting, to the southernmost on 20 September. point at Bells Line of Road, Kurrajong, whilst always remaining Michael Keats and Yuri Bolotin are writing a book about this within the Park boundaries. Nearly 2 years went into the journey. In the meantime we have published condensed versions of planning. The walk was in three sections with a food resupply three different days on the walk from Yuri’s track diaries. This is between each one. Ian Thorpe (who conceived and led the walk), the third instalment, the conclusion of the series.

‘This is our last day!’ kilometre. This would avoid a long and getting the car here, unless it was set in potentially awkward, scrubby and wet motion and left to its own devices to crash y first thought of the morning push along a substantial gorge formed by at this spot. immediately seized all my this major tributary of the creek. We dropped about 50 m in elevation Mattention as soon as I was woken From here, we started a long and and continued to contour in the same up at 0535 by loud and melodious bird gentle sidle to the south, through a very southerly direction underneath the cliffs. calls around our camp. Even though this pretty landscape. To the right of us were Next we came to the first of three was true and we had been striving for this low, broken bluffs covered in green moss stunning baroque caves, all within a to happen during the last 18 days, I found and red lichen; to our left the valley distance of about 200 m. To be honest it hard to believe that this incredible dropped steeply into the rainforest-clad this took me by complete surprise, as I journey is about to end. The trip went too gorge below. Around us were fields of had not seen any near our place before. quickly and it went too slowly, at the spring flowers, tall grass and These caves could rival the best I’ve seen same time. Xanthorhoeas. The scrub under our feet in the Wollemi. What they lack in size Somehow, I felt very edgy during the was manageable, the morning was crisp, (they are quite small, about 10 m long by night, woke up several times and spent the sun was shining gently, our packs 2 m high), they more than make up for in ages lying in my soft and comfortable bed, were light, and we knew we were getting their astonishing ornamentation. I called listening to the distant murmur of Tootie closer to our destination with our every them Psychedelic Caves. Creek below us. I was not having any step. he walls of the first cave are a profound or anxious thoughts, just trying Then, suddenly and in a total Tpsychedelic riot of patterns and colour to fall asleep, but couldn’t. This was the dissonance to the idyllic scenery we were – yellow, orange, red, white, with dots, most restless night of the Traverse for me, experiencing we came upon an old, totally and I had no idea why. Only now I am rusted car wreck, thinking perhaps subconsciously I was too deposited in a Archeological Jeep excited about it being the last day of our very artistic way grand adventure. along a line of Soon we were having breakfast, four tall, mature packing the fly, striking the camp – an Angophoras. ordinary start for an extraordinary day, Upon examining one of the most memorable days of my it we thought it life. For the last 7 days, it was Ian and I was a Jeep. The only on this third leg of our voyage as car was a fair Rodney had to leave us at Capertee. At way down the 0650, with our packs light and our spirits slope from the high, we were off on our way to top of the ridge. Kurrajong, to finish the Wollemi Traverse. The first edition We first headed south west on gently map shows a rising ground towards the cliffs and away road up on the from Tootie Creek, with the idea of ridge, but they climbing onto the ridge and then must have done dropping back from it after about a pretty well

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club stripes, lines, circles, zigzags, swirls – they Australia, by a are all there at the same time. roadside sign in The second cave has much more Kurrajong, on Bells settled, restrained colour palette, in soft Line of Road, grey, white and yellow. On its ceiling is where thousands of the centrepiece - a stunning, recessed motorists travel ceiling rose or circular niche, decorated every day. Before with broad, wavy stripes of colour. The planning our walls are a psychedelic jumble of soft Traverse, I had three-dimensional shapes, resembling ice been through that cream cones, sea shells, swirls of milk and spot hundreds of honey. times and didn’t The third cave, whilst being smaller know it was part of and visually less striking than the other the Wollemi. two, has one incredible feature – a fter the photo delicate, three-dimensional, paper thin Asession, we figure of a brown, long necked fantasy continued walking bird, coming out of the cave wall at a south, parallel to straight angle. another private We crossed this well-flowing tributary property on the It’s a bird! of Tootie Creek and moved up the nose southern side of the opposite us. The much drier and vine-free road. On our way we needed to cross a a way down. Shortly after the second cliff ridge went up very steeply at first, quickly fairly deep, double headed gully. As one line was also negotiated, then the third, gaining 60 m of altitude, then flattened a might expect it contained some Black and the fourth, all smaller cliff lines. Wattle and a bit of Lawyer The fifth cliff line proved to be the Vine, but to our surprise it biggest. We followed the line of the spur, also had a number of small keeping to the left (west) of the nose, waterfalls, cascades, grottoes until we came to a slot that looked like it and even a delightful cave could go. It did, and it dropped us about with the water running over 20 m very quickly, underneath the cliffs. it. All this within a few The descent then continued through thick hundred metres from scrub, until we came out on the nose Mountain Lagoon Road, above the sixth cliff line that fortunately unbeknown to most people looked like going either to the left or to who use it, including, until the right. We went on the left and soon now, myself. Having had a got to another drop – the seventh cliff look at the map, this gully is line, which we also negotiated on the left in fact a major tributary of hand side. Flat Rock Creek. Under this last cliff line, we saw a Having used North strange dog shaped pinnacle, about 4 m Wheeny Gap Trail for a little tall, standing in front of the wall of rock while, we started our descent and gazing towards the creek below. into Wheeny Creek – the last The Lawyer Vine is never too far away major creek to cross on our in this area – indeed, it soon came in, and Traverse. I must admit, both it was the thickest, juiciest vine we had Icecream cave Ian and I were a bit come across on this Traverse. Some kind apprehensive about this last of record! Luckily for our skins, the size of bit and climbed steadily from there on to challenge. We were planning to check it thorns doesn’t seem to be related to the add another 80 m or so to our elevation. out prior to the Traverse but ran out of size of leaves and branches. Soon we picked up an old fire trail (once time, so it was an almost complete At 1109 we were down at Wheeny again, only shown in the first edition unknown. I don’t know exactly what went Creek. Once again, we had made it! The map). It took us through a pleasant, open on in Ian’s mind, but I couldn’t help total descent was of the order of 300 m, forest of Angophoras, Banksias and thinking that if it happens to be a canyon but not really very hard as the cliff line in Scribbly Gums set amongst the (which is far from unlikely in this area our chosen area is broken up into about wildflowers. and very possible judging by the map), seven different ones, all spaced well At 0852 we left the fire trail, as it how silly would it be to have gone apart. would have taken us outside of the through the whole Wollemi, only to be Wheeny Creek at our descent point is national park to a private property, and seriously delayed by the last creek. very attractive, going through a number fixed a bearing to the south east, going Yesterday evening I had sent an SMS with of flat rock platforms, then leaping over down and up a small gully in order to stay our ETA at Kurrajong within the park. Fifteen minutes later we to the support team. Psychedelic cave crossed Mountain Lagoon Road - our first We were keen to make sealed road in 18 days. We were within a that time and to keep few minutes drive from our place; in fact, any delays to the I often pass this spot when I go out for my minimum, even though morning run. I must say I had slight we had allowed a good shivers down my spine – we were getting safety margin. so close! The descent began here was a ‘Wollemi National Park’ fairly gently at first, Tsign beside the road, right where we through a series of crossed it. As I knew, there was not going wide, flat ledges to be a sign at the finishing spot in covered with thick Kurrajong, we decided to take a few scrub separated by photos at this spot. It beats me why the short rocky bits. We NPWS would not identify the soon came to the first southernmost point of one of the most significant cliff line but important national parks in NSW, if not in had no trouble finding

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big moss covered boulders in a series of old trees had survived, but there was very small waterfalls, before spilling over a little undergrowth. We sidled around to large tranquil pool. We spent a little time the south west and looked at the here, relaxing and enjoying it all. The impressive views towards the junction of other side of the creek didn’t seem to Wheeny Creek and an unnamed tributary. present any climbing problems, so with In fact, checking the map, we realised that the last significant challenge behind us we this was the tributary that goes all the felt we were now indeed on a home run. way to Bells Line of Road and that we At 1125 we started our ascent out of would be required to cross almost Wheeny Creek. Predictably, the dry south immediately before we come out at the facing slope was much easier to go southernmost point of the Park. We didn’t through, even though it was quite steep. know it then, but that crossing was going Soon, we reached a rocky ledge to prove pretty horrible, so I later named overlooking the creek, as well as both our this creek Logjam Creek. Looking into the descent and ascent routes. A couple of big valley of Wheeny Creek itself it was trees growing right on the edge provided interesting to see a clear, almost some shade from the sun that by now had horizontal dividing line of colour going become very strong. We were now well along the creek where the dry Sclerophyll ahead of schedule because we ended up forest changes into rainforest. not needing to use our contingency plan Around us we could see how fresh, for crossing Wheeny Creek gorge. The green shoots were popping up thought of getting to the end before our everywhere, contrasting with the black support team and waiting around bark of the established trees charred by alongside Bells Line of Road didn’t feel the fire. There was much to do and enjoy very appealing: a nice problem to have. around us, but somehow both Ian and I So, we decided to spend a leisurely lunch felt very flat and tired at that time, as time at this spot above Wheeny Creek and though we were at a limit of our energy. after that do an excursion to the cliffs on Neither of us could really explain it, but the western side of the ridge that looked this was the case. Even though the terrain interesting on the map. The temperature we were walking through was very easy at this point was a balmy 21 C. and we had no backpacks, every step After our last lunch of the Traverse (in seemed to be an effort. You do get ups fact, our last meal of the Traverse), we and downs during a long walk like this, went for a little wander around our but I was definitely experiencing the time locality. From our rock platform we of my lowest energy of the last 18 days. followed a gentle slope uphill. The entire The strong, shared craving to explore and area south of us must have been in a experience new things that was driving us bushfire (or a controlled burn) very all this time had suddenly evaporated, so The Dog-shaped Pinnacle recently, perhaps last year. Most of the we slowly walked back to our rock and

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club the shade of the trees and just sat there walk in the Wollemi! Soon, for some while, even trying to have a little we needed to cross a gully, nap. climb out of it and continue It required an extra effort to shoulder on the tops for a while, our almost empty packs at 1400 and to before sidling and coming start going southwards and up a gentle down another steep and slope on the last round of our Odyssey. overgrown ravine not Almost immediately, I felt a surge of affected by the fire. Our energy and a powerful desire to just go progress slowed ahead and finish it. I am sure Ian felt the significantly and from being same way. The walking was initially easy much ahead of the time of because the ridge had been recently our appointment with the burnt. This was an unexpected bonus for support team a few hours two reasons. First, we had no ago, we were now running undergrowth to slow us down, and increasingly late. second, it provided us with another aspect But the slow going of the of the Wollemi and the type of scenery we last hour was nothing Finished! had not yet experienced during this compared to the next bit journey. Far from being depressing as one which was the crossing of might think, I find this landscape of old that major tributary of Wheeny Creek we ground to a halt, minutes seemed like and new, death and re-birth, very life had seen from our lookout a few hours hours. Will there be an end to this? Then, affirming. earlier. It must be the southernmost creek suddenly, the bush opened up, and we At 1420, we crossed to our very last in the Wollemi. There were no cliffs, but were on the Bells Line of Road, at the (and our shortest time to be spent on!) the scrub and the Lawyer Vine were southernmost point of the Wollemi topographical map – Kurrajong. Straight incredible, both on the descent and the National Park. The time was 1558, GR after, we passed an interesting mushroom ascent. I named this unnamed tributary of 78760 88595. shaped rock formation that reminded me Wheeny Creek, Logjam Creek. e turned west and walked downhill of a miniature Totem Pole. To our south, We were doing it really tough indeed. Wfor a short while, when we saw, on in the distance, we had the first glimpse It was a very fitting finish to our journey. the opposite, left side of the road, several through the trees of the Cut above the Wollemi does not yield easily, and it cars and people near them, who started to Bells Line of Road that would be very indeed kept putting obstacles in front of run towards us. They were all coming in near our final destination. We could even us until the last minute! our direction, yelling and gesticulating discern the line of metal barriers above Our speed was perhaps 10 metres per joyfully. I had visualised this moment, of the road. We pushed on. minute. We had preset our point of exit as us coming out from the bush, onto the We were now going through some a GPS waypoint at lunchtime, and it now road in Kurrajong Heights, many times a areas that were not affected by the fire, or showed that we were less than 100 m day, every day, intensely, for the past 18 where perhaps it wasn’t as vigorous. from it. We were still deep down in days, and even before that when thinking Then, there was a steep climb, around 80 Logjam Creek, with absolutely no views about the walk. The reality of it was now m, that put us back above the 500 m line. and no sense of how close we must have unrolling in front of me, just like I had This was the last significant ascent of our been, clambering over a huge pile of seen it in my mind, only it seemed to be t trip. Through the trees, we had good debris and pushing through the forest of in slow motion…we made it!!!! views towards Mt Tootie, Mt Irvine and Lawyer Vine. The tiredness that beyond, although the air was a bit hazy. accumulated over the last 3 weeks had Total trip distance: 278.5 km. few minutes later, we came to a crept in with a vengeance. The time Total trip ascent: 12,727 m. Acattle track – the cows from the nearby property must have been wandering into the Park in search of greener pastures. Next, we passed by an old fence and what appeared to be a human track going off into the gully on our right (west). We now had about one kilometre to go and expected to finish in the next half an hour. But nothing is guaranteed when you

The last ‘little’ creek

Wheeny Creek

Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Control of feral animals back in the hands of NPWS National Parks Association (NPA) n 4 July 2013, the NSW Government Zone B: Oannounced that a trial of the Supplementary Pest Control Program Experienced and trained volunteers are would commence in 12 national parks. supervised by NPWS staff. This will After this trial, a report would be include induction and daily safety delivered to cabinet and further national briefings. Detailed reporting, data parks on the original list of 75 may be collection and debriefing requirements considered for the program. will also apply. Site specific shooting The details of controls and plans with detailed maps will direct management reveal that campaign to stop operations, with these being approved by amateur, recreational hunting in national NPWS regional managers consistent with parks has been won. regional pest strategies. The trial program is fundamentally a professional hunting program and will be The National Park will be closed to the run entirely by the National Parks and public when pest eradication programs Wildlife Service (NPWS) staff. The are taking place as has always occurred program is back in the hands of the when NPWS have managed these professionals who have always managed programs. A new addition to the rules pest animals in NSW. NPWS staff may around pest animal control is that there bring in professional volunteers to help will be no shooting activity by NPWS at execute its professionally planned and all in any national park during school managed programs, and such volunteers holidays. No minors will be allowed to will have to go through the same training hunt in any national parks despite as NPWS staff. E.G: Undertake navigation lobbying from the Shooters and Fishers ■ The management and controls for pest training, species identification training, Party. animal programs in National Parks to demonstrate competency etc. Unions of National Parks and Wildlife be also applied to our State Forests. Any pest eradication programs that Service feel that the safety concerns they NPWS staff utilise professional volunteers raised during the inception of the In addition to the announcement around for will have one of two zones within it. program have been adequately addressed. the Supplementary Pest Control Program, There were previously three, and the third The campaign to stop amateur, on 4 July the government also announced to be omitted was the ‘scary zone' that recreational hunting in national parks has it had disbanded the Game Council of permitted amateurs to carry out very much been won! The groups working NSW. This came after an independent unsupervised hunting at their own on the campaign have committed to review of the Game Council by Steve discretion. The two zones that remain are keeping a watch on the program and are Dunn reported the many incompetencies Zone A and Zone B. now calling for: of the Council and that it promoted poor governance. t ■ Funds dedicated to the Game Council Zone A: to be given to NPWS for strategic, Justin McKee integrated professional pest animal Campaigner, Consultant, Volunteers will be part of the NPWS team control programs, including further Media Spokesperson. and working shoulder to shoulder with research into more humane methods of 0404 824 020 experienced NPWS staff. killing pest animals. [email protected]

Car Accidents Keith Maxwell, BWRS ushwalking safety should be a topic appreciate your First Aid training and On NOVEMBER 10 there will be a ONE Bclose to every bushwalker’s heart. It fully charged mobile phone (to call “triple day “Apply First Aid” course. While this does not have to be a complicated subject. zero” (000)) It has happened to BWRS course will not cover gunshot wounds it is You will have a high level of wilderness members on the Jenolan Caves Road!! a great way to learn some basic First Aid safety by following a simple list of “DO & First Aid is also a great skill to have for knowledge. DON’T” on the Bushwalkers Wilderness visitors to remote bush areas. For many First Aid knowledge can save lives. Rescue Squad (BWRS) website years BWRS has offered First Aid courses RAFA training will give you confidence in www.bwrs.org.au for bushwalkers at a discount rate. Our emergencies in areas where medical help Bushwalking can involve a lot of car Remote Area First Aid (RAFA) course now may take hours to arrive. Training in travel. Driving home after a long day includes training on the treatment of “Apply First Aid” is intended for areas bushwalking can present dangers. Many gunshot wounds. where an ambulance and medical aid is much closer. years ago a well-known bushwalker lost On SEPTEMBER 7/8 there will be a two Registration for any of these First Aid most of a leg in a car accident after a very day recertification course in RAFA. courses can only be done at the BWRS late finish to an Easter trip with a long Bushwalkers must have previously website (see above). “Apply First Aid” drive home. Now “Stop, Revive, Survive” obtained a RAFA Certificate to be eligible requires that you have easy access to a can also mean stay put overnight and to attend this course. drive home in the morning. How useful computer for some required theory pre will you be at work if you only got two On OCTOBER 12/13 & 26/27 there will learning prior to the course. hours sleep before work!!! be a full FOUR day RAFA course over Our BWRS First Aid courses must be a If you are unlucky enough to be the TWO weekends. You will be required to great way to learn First Aid in the first to arrive at a car accident you may camp overnight at the site. company of fellow bushwalkers!

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Yvonne Lollback Springwood Bushwalking Club

underwear - one down to less - we braved nearby. The camp site is perched on the the cold, swirling waters of the mighty top of the lower cliffs below Shrouded Yadboro and all crossed safely. Gods Mountain. Firewood is scarce but Once across, we set off on the long Robert did manage to get a small fire slog up the ridge. Walking became much going and it wasn’t too cold. more interesting once we started Next morning, we set off with day Climbing The Castle - with the handline. following the base of the lower set of cliffs packs to explore Monolith Valley and Photo: Robert Sterry below The Castle. This whole area is surrounds. he weather report promised that unique in that it consists of 2 plateaus on The track up is very scenic and follows the wet conditions were nearly top of one another and therefore 2 sets of the creek with a chain just where it’s over, so three of us set off early cliffs, with a flat section of varying widths, needed. Two tags on trees did mislead us T in between. The cliffs were still dripping into using a very swampy, overgrown Monday morning down the coast. Once we’d turned off at Milton, the rain started from the recent rain but this made them lower track but eventually we reached the so we lunched in the picnic shelter below more colourful. valley at the lower end. Here there’s a . But by the time At a junction, we had lunch and took bridge. Leaving the exploration of the we’d finished, the sky was clear. the right hand track to go through ‘The valley till later, we headed left to find our Bravely we did our planned walk up to Tunnel’, a natural cleft in the tail of The way up Mt Owen armed with a dotted the summit via the fabulous ladders and Castle leading to the other side where the line on the Coorang map and my dim stairs they’ve built near the top now. I do summit climb begins. This tunnel isn't memories from a previous walk. After a wonder how we used to get there when easy with a big pack but everyone helped while we started descending and I we only had two ladders to help us?! The everyone else. Once Castle, our destination the next day, was through, we gratefully left still in mist but we were very optimistic by our packs, and started up. then. We camped at Long Gully that night This climb is not for the and two more walkers, John and Nick, faint-hearted and that's joined us Tuesday morning for our three before you even get to the day pack walk. section with ropes. Robert Five minutes into the day’s walk, we decided one section was were stopped by the raging waters of the too exposed and took an . Usually an easy crossing, ‘easier’ route up a crack to the water was well above my knees. So its left. When he became Barry went back to the car for a long rope temporarily stuck between he happened to have and we strung it a tree and a hard place, he from side to side. Stripped down to our saw the wisdom of the rock climb. I wish I’d had the camera because it would have been my action shot [or rather non- action shot] in the club's next photo comp! t the top the views are Abreathtaking with the coast, the Clyde River valley, Byangee Walls, Pigeon House and the higher cliffs and pagodas of the Monolith Valley area - the next day’s destination. The top is almost flat and quite easy walking so we headed to the southern edge for more great views. The valley we’d left that morning was 800 m below and seemed too far to do in one day. Finally we tore ourselves away and went The climb up Pigeon House, now reduced to back for our packs and set Elegance in crossing the Yadboro. tourist level. Photo: Robert Sterry up camp at Cooyoyo camp Photo: Robert Sterry

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The Budawangs from the top of The Castle. Photo: Robert Sterry Inside The Green Room. Photo: Robert Sterry twigged that we weren’t in the slot which has eroded inwards every foot or so At the northern end, we climbed up between Mt Owen and Mt Cole at all but giving a scalloped appearance. through a magic narrow slot between Mt heading for the sheer cliffs where the Lunch was at the southern-most point Cole and Donjon Mt to the top of creek descends to the valley. Robert's GPS of Mt Owen, where we all had to have Monolith Valley with Seven Gods put us straight [what wonderful things photos taken with The Castle in the Pinnacles on the left. Descending into the they are to be sure] and soon we found background so we could show anyone valley, the scenery became more and the right slot and the track heading who showed even the slightest interest more beautiful as the sheer, mossy walls straight up the side of Mt Owen. just how high we’d come. The track out to started closing in and it became darker fter a lot of scrambling, we sat down there is overgrown, prickly and wet but until the creek level is reached. I’ve been Afor morning tea at another very flat. there twice before but again, I was indescribable viewing spot looking up into Then back to ‘The Slot’ again but at the awestruck. I’m not sure if this is the Green Monolith Valley and down to the distant western end this time, where we Room or the whole lot is but it's all just Clyde River valley. The huge pagodas scrambled down to the base of Mt Cole. fantastic. We didn't linger as long as I’d opposite and the Seven Gods Pinnacles at Here we started walking north along the have liked as it was getting late but next the top of the valley are different from the base of these cliffs past four or more great time for sure. By the way, does anyone ones in the Gardens of Stone in that they sleeping caves, though I’m not sure you're know why it’s called Monolith Valley? don't have bands of ironstone sticking out: officially allowed to use them anymore. There are lots of fantastic rocks but not instead they have bands of some soft rock One even has a waterfall nearby. just one monolith. The arch came next. This I climbed into with a friendly shove from behind and soon the men followed for the compulsory ‘I’ve-been-there’ photos. Once back at the bridge, we knew we’d completed our circumnavigation of Mt Cole. The walk back to camp was easier as we stuck to the high track which is also very scenic. We remembered to collect firewood on the way down to the camp and had a very merry fire going in no time. We were a great little group with lots of fun and laughter.

hursday morning we had a quick look Tat Cooyoyo creek where there's a huge overhang suitable to cook in if the weather is bad. We followed the creek to where it plunges over the cliff and once more enjoyed the views with misty clouds still lingering in the valleys. Then back down below the cliffs of The Castle and morning tea on the last lookout rock. The river was at a much more civilized level and we arrived back at the cars at about 2 pm. It was truly a memorable walk. I honestly feel it must rank amongst the best in the world for variety, grandeur and beauty and is true wilderness as there is no other way to reach it but by The Budawangs from the top of The Castle. Photo: Robert Sterry walking. t

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Historic Tracks around Mt Hotham Andrew Swift Cultural Heritage Officer and Walking Track Manager Mt Hotham Alpine Resort

istorically the presented many challenges Hfor the European pathfinders. The continent’s largest physical barrier has thrown lofty peaks, thick vegetation, Mining in the bushfires and snowstorms at those who Upper Dargo ventured into her realm. For many decades now the highest peaks and their approaches have been a bushwalkers’ and industrious population to the district Mt Feathertop mecca, yet the further we progress away for the first time in history. Some 8,000 from our roots the origins of the district's diggers had arrived at Beechworth in and the Razorback earliest tracks & trails has become lost. early 1852 and 100 were reported to be Situated amidst Alpine National Park, successfully working at Omeo. Further escribed as ‘Queen of the Victorian Mt Hotham has a range of historic tracks rich discoveries in the Buckland Valley in DAlps’, Mount Feathertop (1922 m) is and trails which reveal some of Victoria’s 1853 saw 6,000 rush the field. Driven by the region’s most popular hiking earliest European history, yet like many potential wealth and the shortest possible destination. In 1854, on the heels of the early routes their history is hidden just route to obtain it, the first Europeans to miners, Government Botanist Ferdinand beneath the surface. traverse this region were prospecting von Mueller ascended Mt Feathertop. Despite squatting runs being taken up parties. The early diggers largely After von Mueller, the Bright Alpine Club from the mid-1830's in the foothills travelled on foot, carrying their provisions formalised the destination with a winter throughout the region, the higher ranges on their backs or pushing crudely ascent in 1889. The Bon Accord track, an of Eastern Victoria were little explored by fashioned wheelbarrows; more organised earlier route up to the Razorback Spur, Europeans. Rich gold discoveries in early party’s trailed pack-horses behind them. was opened by quartz reef miners in the 1852 on both sides of the Range at Well beaten tracks were rapidly formed by early 1860's while working a number of Beechworth and Omeo attracted a large these first ‘bushwalkers’. gold-bearing reefs in the vicinity of

Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Washington Creek. It was also a more direct route for travellers between Harrietville and Omeo. Bushwalkers in the 1920's and 30's passed the ruins of abandoned mining camps and stamp batteries. In 1906 the Bungalow Spur route was cut, promoting ready walking access to Mt Feathertop from Harrietville. Other approaches include the NW Spur track and the rugged Diamantina Spur, with the principal route along the spectacular Razorback Spur. Another long-overgrown and forgotten route was the government funded Razorback Mining track, which once junctioned near the Twin Knobs. This 4 ft wide track allowed the carting of heavy crushing machinery for the Razorback group of mines which were discovered in the locality by the Harrietville Prospecting Association in 1893. For the more adventurous off-track walker the ruins of the 10-stamp battery and mine camp can still be found.

Machinery Spur, Mt Loch & the Red Robin he track out past Mt Loch (1865 m), a Tremnant basalt cap, was first formed by a party led by Isaac Sloane, carting a Razorback Expedition, Battery 1 heavy stamp battery in 1891 from the Upper Dargo to the Peterson Brothers Brandy Creek Mine to From the mine the Brandy Creek Fire mine on the West Kiewa River. The crew Track continues 3 km down to the possibly had a longer smoko break than the Cobungra River Cobungra River, a clear and remote normal and perhaps pondered the iconic (7 km return) stream that was once accessed by an view of the southern side of Mt overgrown track known as Dungeys. All Feathertop. Machinery Spur is named for ncient river systems, buried for the flats along the stream were once taken this feat. 50 years later the locality was Amillions of years beneath the basalt up by mining leases in a rush in 1883, the location of one of Victoria’s last gold cap of the High Plains, were worked for however the anticipated gold yields never rushes when local prospector and pioneer gold deposits from the 1860s. The lived up to expectations. Dungeys Track of the Hotham Heights ski-field Bill Brandy Creek mine sluicing operations extended from Bright to Omeo via the Spargo discovered the rich Red Robin reef washed an entire hillside away, releasing Cobungra Diggings and the Brandy Creek in 1941. After nearly perishing in the some 25,000 ounces of gold. The mines. It was first chosen by Mounted 1939 bushfires Spargo discovered the reef Cobungra Township was once situated Constable Arthur Dungey of Harrietville in which had been laid bare by the fires. adjacent to the mine, and consisted of a 1884 as an all-seasons route that avoided The initial two ton crushing gave a hotel, three stores, a butcher, a baker and crossing Mt Hotham during winter where staggering yield of 173 ounces of gold. a host of miners’ huts and tents. A true snow blizzards had claimed the lives of Today the mine is still working, with ghost town, all that remains is a scatter of many travellers. The track soon became lucky walkers able to witness the mine broken bottle glass along the track in impassable due to fallen timber after and stamp battery in action. vicinity of the briefly thriving township. mining activity had waned by the turn of

Harrietteville, Bungalow Spur workers Spargo’s Hut. Keith Moody Collection

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club the Century. It was re-opened briefly for tourism by the Bright Progress Association in the 1920's, though again became impassable after the 1939 bushfires. The grassy flats along the Cobungra River have been quiet ever since, save for a few grazing cattle and the occasional bushwalker. Mt Tabletop Walk (10 km return) nown also as Square Mountain, this Kdistinctive flat plateau was used by early travellers through the region as a landmark. The Tabletop track was first opened with gold discoveries on the Upper Dargo River in the early 1860s. The track was formed in about 1863 when Mayford, a small mining township, was established on the Dargo River. Today the walking track ends on the plateau, but the original track continued on to the Square Mount sluicing claim and camp and thence down the main spur to Mayford.

The Cobungra Ditch (12.5 km one way) ne of the few interpreted historic Razorback Mine, Harrietville walking tracks in the area, the O should the fire become unbearable. Andrew Swift has roamed the remote Cobungra Ditch follows the course of an This hut has been described as the corners of the mountains of Eastern abandoned water race which supplied Mawson’s hut of the region with many Victoria for nearly thirty years, water for the hydraulic sluicing operations of Spargo’s items still in the hut, exploring, working and documenting at the Brandy Creek mines. The ditch was including his steel framed bed and a the forgotten and remote mining history cut by the Cobungra Gold Mining large turned-leg dining table. of the region. He has given numerous Company in 1884 at the cost of £11,000, To walk along any track and know at presentations, written books and and employed upwards of 120 men in its least some of the stories that occurred presented documentaries on this construction. The investment in the water in places along its length makes for a fascinating history. t race and the mine saw both Bright and far more engaging bushwalking Omeo shires upgrade the pack-track experience. The Alpine National Park between Bright and Omeo into a road around Mt Hotham and the Bogong suitable for horse-drawn vehicles. Today High Plains has numerous walking this road is known as the Great Alpine tracks to explore and an even greater Road. Interpretation signs along the history to discover. For further course of the Ditch describe the history of information on these tracks, visit the water race and its construction. The www.mthotham.com.au or feature is retained for much of it length by www.parksvic.gov.au ancient looking dry-stone walls and passes through snowgum and mountain ash forests.

The Huts Walk (21 km circuit) his track links three huts. The Tprincipal one is the heritage- registered Spargo’s Hut. This corrugated iron and bush pole hut was built by Bill and Cecil Spargo in 1927-28. Constructed for Bill’s prospecting and mining activities in an area known as Golden Point, he ü ü spent many years eking out a living Comfortable, family friendly, lodge open Magnificent views of Dargo Valley. working shallow alluvial gold all year with resident caretaker. ü deposits in the locality until his ü Individual or group bookings welcome. discovery of the Red Robin reef in Private bedrooms with 2, 3 or 4 beds and 1941. During the 1939 bushfires vanities. Bill was holed up in his little cabin ü Self-catering kitchen . surrounded by vessels filled with water. As the fire took hold of the For further information view our website or email: [email protected] building he was able to successfully douse and extinguish the flames and For summer bookings contact: save the hut and his own life. He Caretaker: Phone 03 5759 3283; or also had beside him a loaded rifle email: [email protected]

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Johanna Mitchell, Mudgee Bushwalking Club

ur group, Mudgee Bushwalking Club Inc & Bike is for walkers only. The carpark area has one table with seats and no Riders, have just clocked up 20 years of toilet facilities. OBushwalking as a group. What better way to We were delighted that even due to the long weekend etc we had 26 celebrate the occasion than to go for a bushwalk? We members for the walk, and two members were over 80 yrs old. [The believe the walk to Castle Rocks in Munghorn Nature author does not record whether the ‘oldies’ led from the front or not! - Ed] Reserve may have been the first walk the original While enjoying the views from the top of the ‘Castle Rocks’ the members took so we revisited this walk on the weekend. majority had their lunch while others were content to mind the lower Munghorn Gap Nature Reserve is part of the Great portion of rock and enjoy the flora & fauna down there. t Dividing Range and is about 35 km from Mudgee, on Munghorn 8833-2-S. This is a particularly important [email protected], place for the Wiradjuri people, and has 164 recorded http://www.mudgeebushwalking.org.au species of birds including the endangered regent honeyeater. The Castle Rock walking track offers an easy 8 km return walk of about 1 hour each way. There are stunning views from the Sandstone ‘pagoda’ rock formations at the end of the track and beyond. The track

Classic sandstone country Sandstone formation on the walk

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 38, Issue 3, Winter 2013 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Book Review

Mudgee Bushwalking Club, 20th Anniversary Top Walks in LETTER TO THE EDITOR. . . New South Wales Ken Eastwood Hunting in There is no place for recreational ISBN 13 9781741173949 $35 hunting in the National Parks of NSW National Parks whatsoever. It is a stupid and dangerous small paper-back book of 360 pages, in idea. It benefits no one except hunters Acolour, with a moderately waterproof read with interest Bushwalking NSW’s (who already have access to State Forests cover. Too big for a pocket, but it would fit Ifirst newsletter and note with concern and private land) leaving bushwalkers easily in a day pack. The book has about 64 walks in it. Most of the comment by President David Trinder and other park users as the losers. that ... the best we can do is to force these are day walks, with a few listed as taking Recreational hunting will be ineffective 2 - 3 days. I will add that some of the 2 day restrictions on hunting ... If Bushwalking in reducing feral animal numbers below NSW accepts this position I am sure it walks could be covered in one day - we have their breeding rates and may interfere done them in that time. So obviously the would be contrary to the views of most with current control programmes. Feral difficulties are not great everywhere. The members. animal control should be left to author claims there are some ‘serious professional park managers employing challenges that will test even hardened science based programmes of proven walkers’, but I couldn't see any. On the other effectiveness. The $19 million proposed hand, he does say ‘many of the routes described are suitable for families and mixed by Premier O’Farrell for administration of age groups’, and that seems a better amateur hunting would be better directed description. to these programmes. The areas covered are Sydney region, Blue Recreational hunting in National Parks Mountains, South Coast, ACT and Snowy Mts, poses a very real and unacceptable risk to North East and Western NSW. You would need park users, particularly bushwalkers to do a lot of travelling to cover all the walks because we are likely to pop up in areas listed. Whether it makes sense to try to cover where we aren’t expected by hunters. all of NSW in one book is a good question. Of all the organisations opposing Each walk gets a summary of key details, hunting in National Parks I would expect a bit of a topo map, and then a fair route description. The key details include comments Bushwalking NSW to take the strongest about the trackhead or start, suitable weather stand due to the very real risk it poses to conditions, and the nearest food (and toilets). Su b scri b e to T“ T h h e e B B u u sh sh wal wal k k er er” our members. Let's have no more talk of Experienced walkers (ie club members) will Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s compromise. have no problems following the route h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r Ian Olsen description, but novices should read the text o n l y $10 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d Coast and Mountain carefully. h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. Walkers of NSW Each walk has several nice colour photos, Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r plus drawings or photos of relevant animals m o n ey o rder t o Bushwalking t h e Con fed eratiNSW, on PO of Bo x [To be fair, I think David Trinder was or plants. The colour balance in the printing is 119,B u sh New wal kt oi n w g n Cl NSW u b s 2042. NSW InPh c o, n PO e: Bo9565 x 119, 4005. really expressing some despair, as it was uniformly good. NewM ak e t o t wh en ch NSW equ 2042.e o r m Tho n e ey n ewo rder ph opay n e abl n u e m t ber o very unlikely that the State government Most of the route descriptions are fairly it s h 9565e ‘C o nfederatio 4005. M ak e n t ho ef Bushwalking ch equ e o r m o C n lubsey o r- would take more notice of the Confederation accurate, although I did find some small derNSW pay Inc’ abl as e t w o el th l : e pl ease Con dofed n erati o t abbrevi on of at e t h e than of the demands of the Shooters and errors. The farmer met at Blue Gum Forest Bn amu sh e! wal ( Yes, k in t g h e Cl ban u b sk NSWacco u In n t c stas i l l w u sesel l : plt h ease e o l d Fishers Party. In the event it would seem was not really ‘determined to cut the trees don am n eo t so abbrevi far. Th at at e m t h ay e n ch am an e! ge - o n e day ! ) down’; the route from Blacks Range to the that the whole thing is, for the moment at Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- descent down to Jenolan does not go along least, becoming moot. The departmental the road as shown (it takes a fire trail from the scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - report was damning. I imagine the Shooters cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave. camp site below the road); and so on. None of and Fishers will still be trying, but maybe them are really serious. Barry has got the message. Ed.] Roger Caffin

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