10 Saint-Joseph’s Ora- tory of Mount-Royal etting a story in and the trail, sculptures, chase hockey For more than 40 Get Around, Greenly Montréal is like browsing the colorful Jean- pucks, ice skate, toboggan, years, Brother André— The fondest vacation memories never 1 Cap-St.-Jacques Nature Park a handyman with little casting a character Talon Market, shopping along and cozy up in fire lit pubs. A working ecological farm updates education—ministered to involve driving in urban traffic. Fortunately, ’s rich agricultural traditions for ailing pilgrims, often from Montréal is a superb city for walking and in a novel—one with St.-Laurent, St.-Denis, and Some see my adopted city a society in which food has become an a public streetcar shelter. offers the clean, quiet, convenient Métro art form. In late winter, sample fresh His reputation for miracle a distinct, vibrant Ste.-Catherine. I delight in as a schizophrenic scrapper syrup, taffy, and sugar made from sap cures earned a fortune subway system as well as an expanding out of the park’s maple trees. In the in alms for construction network of all-weather cycling routes. S personality not to be ignored. the multiculturalism: Irish pub continually fighting herself: summer, lounge on the beach. Enjoy of this colossal shrine. geotourism (n): Tourism great views of the river year-round. Upon his death in 1937, La Belle Ville seized the beside French bistro, sushi Anglophone–Francophone, that sustains or enhances the the monk’s heart was “Cycling provides a healthier, often quicker, geographical character of a extracted by order of and increasingly more-fashionable means spotlight on page two of my restaurant beside Schwartz’s Sovereignist-Federalist, Cath- place—its environment, culture, church authorities. Pickled aesthetics, heritage, and the of getting around. There are now 380 km well-being of its residents. 45°27′N in formalin, it remains (236 miles) of bike trails that take you first book, Déjà Dead, when famous smoked meat. Most olic-Protestant. Montrealers the shrine’s most unusual 73°57′W attraction. throughout the city and beyond. To the I wrote “when summer ar- of all, I love to walk the view their hometown as a PONT DE SAINT-JOSEPH’S ORATORY OF MOUNT-ROYAL L’ÎLE-AUX-TOURTES CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION / PIERRE ST-JACQUES west you can ride along the Lachine Canal 1 Park to the town of Lachine; a nice ride to rives in Montréal, it flounces tangled neighbourhoods with New York–Paris blend. They the east takes you about 12 km (7.5 miles) in like a rumba dancer.” That their narrow streets and are right. The joie de vivre is to the Botanical Gardens; and to the impossible staircases. south you can explore Nuns Island, Île was 1994. The city has never irrepressible as the bilingual Île-Bizard Ste.-Hélène, and Jean-Drapeau Park in the released its hold on me. Year-round, Montréal bares citizenry revels in a shared river. A beautiful ride right in the center is Montréal is the leading lady its soul to visitors. Summer love of fashion, food, music, through Park. 2 The paths are set to double by 2011. of contradictions—flirting with is a June to September cel- and dance. In the end, every- The new BIXI bike sharing service will take Sainte-Anne- her future while embracing ebration of outdoor cafés, one wins. de-Bellevue us another step towards a city designed for cycling.” her past, vigorously blending makeshift bongo concerts in The pulse of Montréal beats —David McDougall & Stephanie Thompson, French and English, harmo- Mount Royal Park, fireworks loudly, and visitors will find partners, My Bicyclette nizing the steel skyscrapers competitions, and endless their hearts willingly harmoniz- 20 of Downtown with the green festivals. In winter, unde- ing with this alluring city. OLD PORT 40 STÉPHAN POULIN gems of her parks. I adore terred by bitter cold, les —Dr. Kathy Reichs, forensic R hiking the wee mountain, bik- Montréalais slap on lip balm

i v anthropologist and author i ing along the Old Port Quays and erect impromptu ice Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue Canal e` MONTRÉAL HIGH LIGHTS FESTIVAL 2 r BENOÎT DUROCHER e National Historic Site of - d Montréal Watch pleasure boats ride the e 37 Bois-de-Liesse Nature Park hydraulic lift in this short 1843 s - Watch for beavers and painted canal at the western tip of P turtles along Bertrand Creek, r Vive la différence Montréal Island. The town bus- a which flows through this 159- i 34 La TOHU tles with shops and restaurants. r hectare stand of old-growth 35 Île-de-la-Visitation Nature Park ie One of the world’s biggest s hardwoods. Human and natural history blend circus arts training centres and PONT in this riverside park containing Montréal Coat of Arms 3 Pointe-Claire LOUIS-BISSON 36 Église de la Visitation du performances spaces, where This lakeside village was a Sault-au-Récollet the restored Maison du Pressoir, you can see big-top shows Montréal’s ethnic diversity is celebrated not only distant summer retreat for Île aux Chats built in 1806 to extract apple from around the world. in today’s tourist brochures but also recognized on 37 One of Montréal’s oldest church- CANADA Montrealers before road and rail es (1750), built of fieldstone in juice for fermentation into cider. 2345, rue Jarry Est its official coat of arms, which goes back to 1833. links made it an easy commute. a traditional Quebec style. Enjoy a spirited taste of village UNITED Montr´eal Along with maple leaves, a beaver and the motto The town’s landmark 1710 stone 1847, boul. Gouin Est life in 19th-century Quebec. STATES windmill typifies those built “Concordia Salus” (Salvation through harmony), 73°50′ PONT throughout France at the time. MEDERIC-MARTIN Île Gagn´e the city’s official emblem features symbols of its Gun slits in the exterior wall 3 13 earliest settlers—a fleur-de-lis for the French; a were a precaution, ultimately PONT PAPINEAU- L LEBLANC rose for the English; a shamrock for the Irish; unneeded, against attack. ak e S 15 45°34′ and a thistle for the Scottish. The motto has ai 35 also inspired the name of one the four Montréal nt Riv L i`ere- universities, . Fur Trade at Lachine o 36 des- 5 National Historic u Pra is iries Site of Canada 45°41′ This was the home base for the epic journeys of Montr´eal-Pierre-Elliott Trudeau voyageurs, who traded International Airport Pointe-aux-Prairies PONT CHARLES- European goods for Nature Park DE GAULLE pelts, collected by native trappers in the country’s Île Bonfoin Île remote northwest. Bourdon Exhibits housed in this 4 René-Lévesque Park / 19 1803 warehouse bring Musée de Lachine that era alive. This narrow spit of parkland 1255, boul. Saint-Joseph features a linear sculpture gar- 73°29′ Lachine Borough den popular with bicyclists and 520 hikers. Nearby is the fieldstone Musée de Lachine, built as a fur 40 trading post in 1669, which is 34 LACHINE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE OF CANADA 40 JOHN MITCHELL / ALAMY Montréal’s oldest building. It was the home base for the voyageurs, Map Key , who embarked from here on Food 7 St. Lawrence River long canoe journeys to trade with This springtime stopover native trappers in the country’s Entertainment THE ISLAND OF MONTREAL Île for migrating waterfowl remote northwest. Historic site also draws sun-basking Sainte-Th´er`ese 17 Market Montrealers. Some 225 6 Fleming Mill 73°43′ 25 species of birds and at In summer, actors recount the least as many varieties of history of this 200-year-old 15 16 cyclists, anglers, boaters, windmill. 9675, boul. LaSalle Scenic viewing spot lovers, picnickers, and Other point of interest noon-hour tanners, flock 8 Lachine Canal National Historic 15 to this long stretch of Site of Canada Maisonneuve Scale varies in this perspective parkland opposite the St. Dug by hand in the early 1800s 12 13 Park 32 Morgan Boulevard Lawrence River’s rushing to dodge the Lachine Rapids, the 14 Grand public edifices—including Lachine Rapids. 14.5-kilometre (9-mile) canal 30 a public bath, and domed farm- now carries pleasure boaters 11 ers’ market—symbolize the civic 22 23 exuberance of the once-indepen- from the Old Port of Montréal 21 31 Biodôme de Montréal SATELLITE IMAGERY PROVIDED BY DIGITAL GLOBE dent City of Maisonneuve, incor- to Lake Saint Louis. 31 33 Explore four distinct ecosystems RAFTING ON THE LACHINE RAPIDS Lachine 10 20 from the Americas under the porated into Montréal in 1918. LES DESCENTES SUR LE SAINT-LAURENT 4 25 roof of this one-of-a-kind experi- ence. You’ll encounter 700 spe- www.geomontreal.com 26 33 5 29 Île Sainte-Hélène cies of plants and animals from Promenade Bellerive 24 Île Sainte-Hélène features a walk-up tropical and polar regions, the A relaxing park that is the Copyright © 2009 observation tower, sprawling outdoor Canadian Laurentian forest and ferry stop for cruises to Îles-de- National Geographic Society, Mount Royal swimming pools, and the regal Hélène the St. Lawrence River. Boucherville National Park. Washington, D.C. Welcome to the World de Champlain restaurant, which for Park 32 decades has drawn visitors to this There is no better proof of Montréal’s ope- natural island. The boisterous La Ronde ness to newcomers than Michaëlle Jean. 20 amusement park is a holdover from the 9 Lachine Canal Bike Path 6 1967 World Fair. Gateway to a Continent Having arrived in the city as a child refugee An old industrial corridor from Haiti, she earned prominence in along the Lachine Canal 30 The Montréal Botanical Garden Montréal’s early prosperity was due to was rehabilitated as the 8 LA A regiment of 100 horticulturists broadcasting and, in 2005, was appointed CHI simple geography: this was as far as NE 14.5 kilometre (9-mile) CAN 720 er and landscapers tend more than 30 AL iv ocean-going ships could sail up the St. the country’s first black Governor General, spine for the city’s ce R gardens, 10 conservatories, and an PONT awren Canada’s official head of state. impressive network of 9 JACQUES-CARTIER St. L arboretum, that together comprise one Lawrence River. People and goods trans- bike paths. of the world’s great botanical reposi- ferred here to trains or smaller boats to “While unemployment and poverty deny tories. Launched as a Depression-era be delivered across the continent. 10 Saint-Joseph’s Oratory 28 The Biosphère employment project, the 75-hectare some immigrant communities full access of Mount-Royal Île Sainte-H´el`ene A giant geodesic dome created man-made Eden was the vision of by futurist Buckminster Fuller as botany scholar Frère Marie-Victorin. “You can still stroll the Victorian con- to opportunity, it would be hard to find a (See photo top left) 18 29 city where cohabitation among ethnicities the U.S. pavilion for , the A recent addition is the First Nations course of downtown Windsor Station 11 Roger Gaudry Pavilion, 20 15 26 Ruelles vertes Biosphère now celebrates the Garden, which displays 300 species is more comfortable. No time is this spirit Université de Montréal Angrignon 28 Great Lakes and St. Lawrence of plants used by indigenous North where until 1995, the mighty Canadian PONT DE LA The once-shabby alleys behind more evident than a Sunday afternoon at Art Deco tower dominates Park CONCORDE rue Cartier were transformed River watershed as an eco- Americans. In all, the Garden shelters Pacific Railway ran its world-wide rail and the mountainside campus. museum. 160, chemin Tour-de- AQ 27 by local residents into an urban 22,000 separate species and plant shipping network. The Old Port’s gargan- Lac aux Castors (Beaver Lake) in Mount UEDU C DE M AREA ENLARGED ON OTHER SIDE oasis of backyard patios, shade l’Isle, Île Sainte-Hélène varieties. Royal Park. There, in winter, you might 12 Avenue Bernard ONTREAL tuan Elevator 5 reminds that for decades 10 trees and flower beds, which has find immigrants from India learning to ice ’s closest point to Île Notre-Dame Montréal was North America’s greatest 19 22 Le Fromentier sparked a citywide movement 15 Little Paris culturally, Avenue Bernard to create “ruelles vertes,” or Italy grain exporting port. Just across the river, skate. In summer, recent arrivals from in fashionable Outremont PONT VICTORIA Celebrated bakery offers 25 styles of bread. green alleys. A slice of the old country, you can see ships enter the St. Lawrence North spread their blankets across abounds with cafés, boutiques, complete with espresso bars and bistros frequented by 20 Myco Anna 1375, av. Laurier Est the grass for a desert-style picnic. If you Wear your ethnics on your 27 Jean-Drapeau Park and trattoria. Italian immi- Seaway whose opening in 1959 enhanced Montréal’s chattering classes, An urban playground straddling grants infused Montréal with Montréal’s status as a continental gate- are lucky, you might be offered a taste of en français, bien sûr. 73°36′ sleeve with clothes created from 23 Byblos, Le Petit Café grilled lamb méchoui. Montréal is a cultural 16 Pizzeria Napoletana 7 leftover and recycled materials. Persian delights in a two islands in the St. Lawrence a passion for drinking strong, way. In its 20th century heyday, the city 13 La Lumière du Mile-End Bring your own wine to this This workshop and boutique, lo- Teheran-style corner café. River. Île Notre-Dame, created dark coffee, and cheering laboratory where accents, cuisines, and from 15 million tons of lime- international soccer matches. was surpassed only by New York as the Comfort zone for vegans and Little Italy landmark for family Nuns cated in the old garment district, 1499, av. Laurier Est dreams intermix to produce a true bohe- vegetarians. 214, rue Bernard dining. 189, rue Dante 19 Maison Saint-Gabriel outfits many of the city’s most stone extracted while boring Experience a bit of each at continent’s busiest passenger and freight mian spirit where everything still seems Island Hidden away amid the industrial fashionable figures. 24 Resto la Banquise the city’s subway, was the focal the legendary Caff`e Italia. terminal, and remains one of the East 17 Jean-Talon Market Île aux lands that came to surround it, point of the Expo 67 World’s Fair. possible.” 14 St.-Viateur Bagel 4660, boul. Saint-Laurent Quebec’s curious contribution to Coast’s major container ports and home Hot bagels Montréal-style: The biggest open sky market Ch`evres this finely restored, 300-year-old fast food, “poutine,” is celebrated It offers a casino, beach that at- —Rima Elkouri, columnist, La Presse hand-rolled, water-boiled, in North America, which since 18 My Bicyclette French farmhouse stands as a 21 La Boîte gourmande with 25 combinations of sauces tracts swimmers all summer, and to Canadian National, the largest railway 1933 has been offering quality Heron wood-baked, 24/7. Island My Bicyclette is a canal-side living memorial to the “Filles This former neighbourhood bank and toppings, poured over fresh- plenty of green space to explore. in North America.” products from across Quebec. A information, rental, and repair du Roy”—disadvantaged young has been reborn as a conscien- cut french fries. 994, rue Rachel Est Enjoy the great view of downtown TAM-TAM AT MOUNT ROYAL PARK AT THE FOOT OF THE 263, rue St.-Viateur Ouest SIR GEORGE-ÉTIENNE-CARTIER MONUMENT favorite gathering spot for a wide depot that helps you enjoy an up- women dispatched to New France tious cafeteria, serving inventive and frequent events that range —David B. Hanna, professor of LES AMIS DE LA MONTAGNE / S. MONTIGNÉ 15 Little Italy cross section of Montrealers. close look at the city from a bike by Louis XIV to marry colonial organic fare on biodegradable 25 Le Verre Bouteille from flower shows to electronic urban studies and tourism, (See photo far right) 7070, rue Henri-Julien saddle. 2985-C, rue St.-Patrick bachelors. 2146, place Dublin tableware. 445, av. Laurier Est 2112, av. du Mont-Royal Est music festivals. Université du Québec à Montréal CAFFÈ ITALIA, LITTLE ITALY STÉPHAN POULIN MONTRÉAL PORT VLADONE / ISTOCKPHOTO.COM History of Montréal POINTE-À-CALLIÈRE: MONTRÉAL MUSEUM JACQUES CARTIER’S FIRST MEETING WITH CANADIAN INDIANS WORK AT THE ST. GABRIEL LOCKS VICTORIAS OF MONTRÉAL MONTRÉAL BIOSPHERE OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND HISTORY BETTMANN / CORBIS LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA CHRIS CHEADLE / ALAMY TOURISME MONTRÉAL / STÉPHAN POULIN The first inhabitants 1701 – The Great Peace 1825 – Opening of the Lachine Canal 1870-1880 – Great, green urban parks 1890 – The modern city rises 1909 – The legendary Montréal 1924 – Brother André helps 1966-67 – Montréal Metro and world-class city. The fairgrounds 1977 – The New Face of Montréal 1992 – Rejuvenating the heart The earliest traces of human oc- In the summer of 1701, representa- Conceived as early as 1680, the Like other industrial cities, Montréal The streetcar system guides Montréal’s Canadiens build a basilica Expo 67 World’s Fair Opens cover Île Sainte-Hélène in the Quebec adopts the Charter of the of Montréal cupation in Montréal date back four tives of 39 First Nations (Indian Na- canal allows shipping to bypass to the feels the need to provide its growing growth, leading to the establishment Montréal is widely credited as the Brother André, known as the Miracle Montréal prepares to host the St. Lawrence River and Île Notre- , mandating use of The 350th anniversary of the found- thousand years. Between A.D. 1000 tions) led by the great Huron chief Kon- Lachine Rapids so goods continue population with healthy green spaces. of major shopping districts along rue place where modern ice hockey was Worker of Mount Royal for his devotion 1967 World’s Fair by building, Dame, created out of limestone French in government, education, and ing of Montréal is marked by a num- and 1500, indigenous people called diaronk arrive in Montréal to negotiate upriver. It is widened twice through the In 1876, Mount Royal Park is inaugu- Sainte-Catherine, boulevard Saint- invented. In 1909, the city witnesses to healing the sick, draws thousands in just four years, the widely excavated during Métro system commerce. Controversial in multi- ber of restoration and development the “St. Lawrence Iroquoians,” a peace treaty. The agreement, called years before being rendered obsolete rated to much fanfare. This forested Laurent, and avenue Mont-Royal. Today, the creation of a legendary team, the of pilgrims to Montréal. The growing admired Métro (subway) system construction. The fair attracts lingual Montréal, the law includes projects highlighting Old Montréal settled in the vicinity of Old Montréal, The Great Peace, will be honoured by by the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959. mountain in the midst of the city is the these streets remain bustling centres “Canadiens.” One of the NHL’s “Origi- numbers seeking his help eventually with distinctive rubber-wheeled more than 50 million visitors outdoor signage, changing the look and the Old Port as great places to founding the village of . In both sides until the conquest of New Reopened in 2002 for recreational work of landscape architecture master for commerce. nal Six,” the Canadiens go on to win a leads in 1924 to the building of the trains and unique architecture over seven months. In 1999, the of the city. The ultimate effect will be live, work, and play. New 1535, they welcome French explorer France by England in 1760. purposes, it draws visitors throughout Frederick Law Olmsted, who also de- record-setting 24 Stanley Cups. famous domed basilica, which will be and art for each station. Expo site was named Jean-Drapeau to help foster a cosmopolitanism and open, including Pointe-à-Callière, Jacques Cartier. the year. signed New York’s Central Park. officially completed in 1967. 67, celebrating the centennial of Park for the former mayor and cultural diversity unique in anglophone- with its archaeological exhibits; the Canada’s Confederation, renews father of Expo 67. dominated North America. Biodôme, with its indoor forest; and Montréal’s reputation as a the Biosphère on Île Sainte-Hélène. 1600 1700 1800 1900 1960 2000 1642 – Founding of Montréal 1657 – Lords of the Island 1779 – Peak of the fur trade 1830 – Building the port of Montréal 1902 – Rail industry spurs growth 1914 – Canadian capital of 1934 – Birth of the Montréal 1960 – The « Révolution Tranquille » 1976 – Olympic Games Montréal in the 21st Century There are fewer than 40 French The priests of Saint-Sulpice are installed For nearly two centuries, under both A newly built port, along with the canal At the heart of Canada’s railway net- communications and transportation Symphony Orchestra After decades of stifling dominance Montréal becomes the third (city in Montréal has undergone an eco- inhabitants living along the shores in 1657 as the Lords of Montréal, a French and British rule, Montréal is and a new railway, make Montréal work, Montréal is also the center for On the eve of the First World War, Founded by music lovers under the di- by 19th-century-era institutions, an North America) to host the summer nomic evolution away from industrial of Montréal Island when the city feudal title they retain until 1840. They the continental capital of the fur the gateway to North America’s vast the manufacture and maintenance of Montréal dominates transportation in rection of Wilfrid Pelletier, the Montréal aspirational Quebecois electorate Olympic Games. On July 17, the manufacturing to a knowledge-based is founded in 1642 by military oversee the spiritual and economic direc- trade. The establishment of the North interior. The rapids prevented ocean- trains. The Angus Shops of the Canadi- Canada. Headquartered at Windsor Symphony Orchestra becomes one of votes in sweeping reforms, especially opening ceremonies drew 73,000 economy with particular strengths officer Paul de Chomedey, sieur de tion of Montréal, building mills, granting West Company in 1779 by Scottish going ships from traveling any further an Pacific line transform the Rosemont Station, the Canadian Pacific sells both Montréal’s major cultural institutions. in education and culture. This “Quiet people to the Olympic Stadium, which in life science and communications Maisonneuve, and female mission- land rights, and establishing a road immigrants marks the high point of west, and the city’s bridges facilitated neighbourhood into an industrial city in rail and boat tickets, linking to Internationally recognized, it goes on to Revolution” will give Montréal a new will later host the Montréal Expos, technologies, in aerospace and ary Jeanne Mance. They name the network. Starting in 1684, they begin this activity, which remains lucrative easy transfer of good to other modes itself, home to thousands of workers Asia via Montréal. Millions of tons of win dozens of national and internation- sense of itself as a self-confident, Pink Floyd, and Pope John Paul II. aircraft production, and in numerous settlement for the Blessed Virgin, construction of a seminary in Old Mon- even today. of transport. Even today, the port of building locomotives specially adapted crops grown in western Canada pass al awards, including two Grammys. modern metropolis. cultural and creative fields. Ville-Marie. tréal, a building they still occupy today, Montréal is a world leader in container- to the Canadian climate. through the Port of Montréal on the next door to the Notre-Dame Basilica. ized shipping. their way to Europe.

PAUL DE CHOMEDEY, SIEUR DE MAISONNEUVE FUR TRADERS VIEW OF MONTRÉAL PORT SAINT-JACQUES STREET OLYMPIC STADIUM PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE MONTRÉAL ALBERT FERLAND WILLIAM FADEN ALEXANDER HENDERSON / LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA MCCORD MUSEUM CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION / PIERRE ST-JACQUES TOURISME MONTRÉAL / STÉPHAN POULIN STÉPHAN POULIN STÉPHAN JEAN-FRANÇOIS LEBLANC ICE SKATING, ÎLE STE.-HÉLÈNE ICE SKATING, MONTRÉAL HIGH LIGHTS FESTIVAL MONTRÉAL

MONTRÉAL SKYLINE FROM MONT-ROYAL Montréal NICOLAS MCCOMBER / ISTOCKPHOTO.COM City for Kids Robin des Bois, le resto bienfaiteur Avenue Mont-Royal / Paysages Éphémères Nightlife and Arts Scene BOUL. Le Plateau’s appeal as a neighbourhood is ex- A merry restaurant where proceeds ST.-JOSEPH BOUL. ST.-JOSEPH E. For Emma Lopez Herrer, 9, insectarium they call it—that from your feast will be redistributed O. plained by this lively street brimming with casual Montréal’s Festival Interna- great views of Old Montréal. Montréal means “going to the kids love. You see butterflies to community causes, according to bistros and plentiful entertainment options. In tional de Jazz is reputed by As the sky darkens, we might summer, the Avenue itself joins the party, dressed Biodôme to see the animals.” and bugs from all over the .NSQD $@LD CDR .DHFDR a business model adopted from Casa Del Popolo serious music fans to be move on to Tokyo Bar on Downtown Montréal AV. PAPINEAU BOUL. MONRobinT- Hood. 4653, boul. Saint-Laurent up with temporary art installations collectively  ANTK3S ,@TQDMS the world's biggest and best St-Laurent Boulevard where RUE DE LA ROCHE For Tuyêt-Mai Vu, 10, it’s “time world in their natural habitat. #DLDSDQX known as Paysages Éphémères. AV. CHRISTOPHE COLOMB with my family in La Fontaine At the top of Mount Royal Park Map Key RUE ST.-HUBERT jazz, blues, and contemporary there lingers just a hint of this La Binerie Mont Royal music event. Held in July, many neighbourhood’s wilder days. Park.” For Charles Chung, 9, children can look out across -NTMS2NX@K ROYAL #NTMSQXBNNJHMF EQNLMIOJ? Montréal is a city of “peace, the whole city. Food Scenic viewing spot #DLDSDQX ;ORJICMOD@RNTO SNJIO>CHA of the performances are out- The Sky Complex, in the heart culture, and play.” And kids vis- A horse-drawn carriage ride Entertainment Other point of interest Mount Royal Park =BdIG?OLONNQL@MjROTCCHMF  doors, and free. The Montréal of the city’s Gay Village just  @UCT-NMS 2NX@K%RS High Lights Festival is a hot, iting the city find it as much fun through Old Montréal is some- Historic site Underground city Highest point of the city, the Mount east of downtown, is a huge Royal is where Paul de Chomedey, AV. DU MONT- ROYAL O. AV. DU MONT- ROYAL E. AV. DU MONT- ROYAL E. mid-winter celebration featur- labyrinth where thousands as those who live there. thing that kids never forget, Lodging Pedestrian area Sieur de Maisonneuve, planted his -NMS 2NX@K Taverne Normand ing urban light shows and of party-goers of all persua- and the Old Port area is great wooden cross to ask the Virgin Mary La Cantine Market Métro &@MBHETKHMSDQOQDS@SHNMRNE !MNKC E@RGHNMDCS@UDQMSG@SHR all-night street parties. During sions flock until 3 a.m. on the “Five minutes from downtown for seeing boats.” to protect the colony. The mountain SQ@CHSHNM@KKNB@KENNC @FQDD@AKXQNVCXNMGNBJDXMHFGSR Museum and its 190-hectare Mount Royal E  @UCT-NMS 2NX@K%RS  @UCT-NMS 2NX@K%RS the rest of the year, discover weekends.” we have a great beach for sum- D RUE —Nathalie Lessard, La Fête des U the city scene through its ever- SCALE 1:15,800 Park, designed by Frederick Law O MARIE-ANNE Le Plateau RUE MARIE-ANNE E. H —Yann Fortier, Associate mer fun at Jean-Drapeau Park. Enfants de Montréal - O. 0 km 1/4 Olmsted, keeps city dwellers in touch N changing roster of fashionable AV. DU PARC Attractive townhouses, walkable shopping, E Le Divan Orange I Publisher, Nightlife Magazine L It’s got top-quality water and L Belvédère  ANTK3S ,@TQDMS with natural rhythms allowing them I and pleasing public spaces make this bistros and nightclubs. 0 mi 1/4 M to enjoy hiking and cross-country A Camilien-Houde ST.-LAURENT BOUL. is safe for kids, very shallow. C neighbourhood a favourite for Montréal’s IE ski trails. VO young professionals—and an inspiration There’s a racetrack in the park National Geographic and the people of Montréal present this RUE “My favourite starting point for RACHEL RUE RACHEL E. for New Urbanist city planners everywhere. where they can zoom on bikes Geotourism MapGuide of the Island of Montréal. O. visitors intent on an evening The exterior wrought-iron staircases give RUE RACHEL E. or rollerblades. ,@B@TW of food, drink, and fun is the RUE ST.-URBAIN Montréal its unique architectural signature.

There’s also a bug museum— This project is the result of the signature of the Geotourism Charter, #@RSNQR Schwartz’s Montréal Hebrew Delicatessen AV. PAPINEAU terrace atop Le Place d’Armes by which Montréal became the First City in the World to Sign in "D@UDQ Maison Smith ,@JD %LA@QJNMXNTQNVMCHRBNUDQXNE A reminder of Boulevard Saint-Laurent’s history Hotel in Old Montréal, with FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE JAZZ DE MONTRÉAL 2007. The Charter was signed by: The World Center of Excellence for -NTMS2NX@K0@QJ@SSGD-@HRNM at the center of Jewish Montréal, Schwartz’s FESTIVAL MEGAPRESS / ALAMY JUST FOR LAUGHS FESTIVAL Destination, Heritage Montréal, and Tourisme Montréal. 3LHSGHMENQL@SHNMBDMSDQ famous smoked meat on rye lures many Restaurant Au ST.-HUBERT RUE Pied de Cochon families back to the old neighbourhood. R

R Kids artwork Mount Royal Kondiaronk #THRHMDPT DA DBNHRD UE FR GA Lead project partners include the National Geographic Center for 3895, boul. Saint-Laurent UE 0Q DENMS@HMD RUE HOCHELA C Lookout and Chalet  @U$TKTSG%RS

Sustainable Destinations, National Geographic Maps, the Montréal H

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!KADQR#NMHB%PT@K !QD@0QNIDBSHNM . From the curving Belvédère A stately Victorian-era park complete ONTENA

Geotourism Council, with local coordination provided by Marie- IBER M near the top of Mont-Royal, 335 with formal re ecting pools fed by an SCALE 1:138,889 C Hochelaga-Maisonneuve Claude Joly and André Jean Lauzon. C 0 mi 2 D you are treated to a sweeping articial waterfall. Join locals from the H VILLE RUE ST.-DENIS RUE Two communities once home to O . view of the city and the St. trendy Plateau-Mont-Royal neighbour- 0 km 2 C Financial support is provided through the The Ministère de la U D Rue Prince-Arthur and Carré Saint-Louis blue collar workers (Maisonneuve A G V E Lawrence plain beyond. hood on their evening promenade. . An urban village of Victorian townhouses popular was called the “Pittsburgh of the C A Culture, des Communications et de la Condition féminine du E L BERRI RUE D L AV. PARC-LA FONTAINE OKE E. A L A O R with writers and artists with the picturesque Carré AV. DES PINS E. North”) welcome new waves of Québec, Ville de Montréal, and Tourisme Montréal under the Entente C Saint-Louis at its center. The square ows into ped- 134 residents drawn by the consider- sur le développement culturel de Montréal. Ô RUE SHERBR T estrian rue Prince-Arthur, ideal for an evening amble 134 able historical appeal. E 138 - AV. CEDAR Écomusée du fier monde OLD MONTRÉAL D and then dinner at one of its many restaurants. Text and map notes by David Thomas; Jay Walljasper editor. WILL VAN OVERBEEK E RUE CHERRIER This former public bath-turned- S- Special thanks to Cheryl Hargrove, Project coordinator for the Center NE AV. DES PINS O. museum honours industrial IGE RUE PRINCE-ARTHUR for Sustainable Destinations. S of Natural History 3GDQAQNNJD labourers and working-class CARRÉ ST.-LOUIS families of the early 20th century. Visit www.geomontreal.com to learn more about the Montréal A A museum chronicling evolution, from V. McCord Museum of Canadian History region. DO the primordial to the present, on the RUE SHERBROOKE E. ATWATER CTEUR-PENFIELD V. campus of McGill University. Experience Montréal history through RUE ONTARIO E. A The Square Mile Royston, age 6 Copyright © 2009 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C. the lens of master photographer

RUE BERRI RUE Quartier Latin Remnants of what was Canada’s seat of William Notman, who captured city Megan, age 7 Students and singles enliven this &QNMSDM@B economic power—the opulent mansions scenes between 1856 and 1891, as Musée d’art urbain RUE PEEL . and private clubs built by mostly-Scottish /EEDQRNTSCNNQDWGHAHSHNMR IO E district of sidewalk cafes and night- R well as other vivid exhibits. ONTAR U ST.-DENIS RUE E SHERB 138 KNB@SDCHMU@QHNTR@QD@R RUE spots centered on rue St. Denis and Massylia, age 7 ROOKE O. industrial barons—are still found among McGill University 138 the high-rises of the downtown core, Main Campus the campus of Université du Québec Théâtre du Nouveau Monde RUE

especially around McGill University. -B'HKKjRQ@MJHMF@LNMF ST.-HUBERT RUE à Montréal. BOUL. DE MAISONNEUVE O. SGDADRSNE.NQSG RUE SHERBROOKE O. Since 1951, Montréal’s leading Alexandre Logan R U !LDQHB@MTMHUDQRHSHDR theatre company has staged R An award-winning B&B R A Creative Metropolis !SV@SDQ E UE FR Underground City Auberge Le Pomerol UE

G French-language productions that "DQQH occupies an 1870 mansion, Montrealers don’t hibernate, but they U This charming inn specializes

D’ Montréal ties to France shape of respect for tradition. Y AV. DU PRÉSIDENT-KENNEDY nourished French Quebec’s emer- 51!- right in the heart of the city. ONTENA do go underground on the harshest in tailoring tour itineraries for R gence as a self-condent culture. 1631, rue Alexandre-De-Sève IBER U COLLEGE -B'HKK the city’s sophisticated tastes. Food is one good place to E ST RUE DE BLEURY E.-CATHERI days of winter. Bad weather is a good BOUL. DE MAISONNEUVE O. MCGILLAV. guests, and securing tickets for NE O ST.-LAURENT BOUL. . 0K@BD CDR VE E. AMHERST They also give it early notice experience the city’s sense of time to explore the 33-kilometre 'TX BOUL. DE MAISONNEU special attractions and events. BOUL. DE MAISONNEUVE E. VILLE #NMBNQCH@ !QSR "DQQH (20-mile) network of walking tunnels 0DDK 3@HMS 819, boul. de Maisonneuve Est 0@OHMD@T C of European trends in arts innovation, especially in the BO Christ Church Cathedral ,@TQDMS 51!- UL. and shopping galleries beneath the !MFKHB@M#GTQBGRS@MCRNM DORCH RUE JEANNE-MANCE and business, which helps ex- restaurants of Old Montréal ESTE "D@TCQX A R BNMBQDSDRSHKSRSN@BBNLLNC@SD V. Le Village city centre. RUE STE.-CATHERINE E. AUT TMCDQFQNTMCRGNOOHMFBNLOKDW plain Montréal’s creative edge and Rue St.-Denis. Start with ORO RUE STE.-CATHERINE O. La Vitrine One of the largest gay and lesbian

U P TE Boulevard Saint-Laurent AV.LORIMIER DE VIL Upstairs Jazz APINEA neighbourhoods in North America, in 21st- century industries Le Local and Pied de Cochon. LE-M Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle ARIE Canadian Centre Bar and Grill Reputed for risqué nightlife the Village is a symbol of Montréal’s from designing video games to A lot of the great young chefs for Architecture  QTD-@BJ@X Fog billows and a ring of re erupts from the during the city’s heyday as fountain surrounding Jean-Paul Riopelle’s highly openness and joie de vivre. Located

manufacturing jet aircraft and work very closely with interior 6HRHSSGHRLTRDTL an inland seaport, "The Main," U just east of downtown, it sports CDCHB@SDCSN@QBGHSDBSTQD abstract bronze sculpture "La Joute" each evening high speed trains. designers to do something 720 BOUL. RENÉ- now tamed, harbors stylish fashion and specialty boutiques,  QTD"@HKD BOUL. RENÉ-LÉVESQUE E. RUE ST.-A mid-May to mid-October. It’s all part of a surreal LÉVESQUE O. bars and eateries. very creative. A lot of the best NTOINE O. happening that features cutting-edge animation trendy restaurants, and cozy B&Bs

RUE ST.-URBAIN RUE housed in century-old houses. “This exceptional city—where designer studios and shops and light shows. AREA ENLARGED AT RIGHT 134

MONTAGNE can be found in The Plateau Y VIGER E. OLD MONTRÉAL French sensibilities effervesce T #G@LO AV. I 0K@BD 3S (DMQH RU '@QD#DMSQ@KD ST.-DENIS This quarter of colonial buildings, bright young people, E ST. S 0K@BD CD -@QR neighborhood and Boulevard -AN R with Anglo practicalities—is TO RUE INE O E. RUE BERRI posh shops, and nonstop street life evokes the feel of . ,TBHDM ,j!KKHDQ E Cj!QLDR AV. VIGER V I 720 the perfect model for a world Saint-Laurent. And don’t miss E ST.-JACQUES 'DNQFDR 6@MHDQ E-MARIE grand European cities. RU N . LL . VIGER O L. VI U AV OU RUE DE LA B in continuous creative flux. two spectacular buildings, the 112 AV. ATWATER "NM@UDMSTQD E Chinatown U 3PT@QD Here, halfway between Europe Canadian Center for Architec- ,HNMDK R 6HBSNQH@ Montréal’s small Chinatown is the place RU HI Montréal Youth Hostel and America, the future is 'QNTKW E S to go for Asian groceries, herbal reme- 0 meters 100 200 300 ture and La TOHU.” Théâtre Corona T.-JA Canada’s rst urban youth RUE ST.-ANTOINE O. CQU Centaur Theatre Company dies, and cuisine crafted by chefs all the re-fashioned every single day, This Belle Epoque theatre—which ES hostel now sets new stan- 0 feet 300 600 900 —Jean-Claude Poitras, RUE ST.-JA Quebec’s premiere English-language way from China. Pass through the land- RUE GUY CQ once hosted vaudeville revues, silent dards for green innkeeping. UES From 1847 to 1963, this domed RUE Old Montréal from bits of daring and inspira- fashion designer MARIE theatre presents contemporary drama mark gate to a lively oriental street JEANNE- ER E. #G@LO movies, and burlesque stars—is now 1030, rue Mackay Montréal ME O. building housed Montréal’s farmers’ AV. VIG OTRE-DA CD -@QR tion woven into a solid fabric the refurbished home to eclectic live on what was once the trading oor of RUE N market on rue de la Gauchetiere. 3PT@QD PIERRE BOURGAULT, LE VILLAGE IMAGINÉ, Planetarium market. Today, its glamorous fashion . MARGUERITE-BOURGEOYS PARK the Montréal stock exchange. 6HBSNQH@ AV. VIGER O 0K@BD #G@LO VILLE DE MONTRÉAL entertainment, such as a soul music shops, design studios, and restaurants C!QLDR Château Ramezay UTE VILLE-MARIE CD -@QR R Place d’Youville RUE MCGILL AUTORO tribute to Montréal’s late, great U Museum / Garden E N NE E. cater to the beau monde—but anyone OT OMMU Esquire Show Bar. RE- This park offers a view in microcosm of E LA C Place d’Armes This palatial residence built DA UE D can look around for free. BOUL. ST.-LAURENT ME the city’s evolution from religious mission R O. From the Sulpician Seminary's RUE ST.-ANTOINE E. by the French Governor of to commercial powerhouse: Parts of the Terrasses Bonsecours 1701 clock to a 1931 art deco RUE ST.-ANTOINE O. Montréal is adorned with Urban Landscape Tour de l’Horloge Champ-de-Mars Sisters of Charity hospital date from 1693, !MNTSCNNQSDQQ@BDVHSG@M 3PT@QD skyscraper, this square treats an inviting 18th-century- Winter Bar 6HBSNQH@ 3DDUDRSHFDRNESGDNKC R while the 1912 customs house attests to Bistro Origine TMQDRSQHBSDCUHDVNESGD3S you to an architectural panorama style garden. You can easily spot Montréal’s row housing fitted with farm- E R !MNTSCNNQA@QMDWSSN &QDMBGENQSHEHB@SHNMR T UE DE LA MONTAGNE %BN AHRSQN ENQSGD ,@VQDMBD2HUDQ@MC A Montréal’s pre-eminent economic status. SGD/KC0NQSRJ@SHMFQHMJ of Montréal history. RUE BERRI role in grand architectural tradi- house porches. This design NQF@MHB@KKXHMBKHMDC /KC-NMSQ D@K W HRNODMNMKXHMVHMSDQ RUE ST.-JACQUES T RUE PEEL . 1T@H+HMF%CV@QCn A O N tions by the colonial French offers families space and Le Cartet RUE NOTRE-DAME E. . E 6HDTW 0NQS QTD K V , @ N -PATRIC , B G H "QD@JAQD@C@S U RUE NOTRE-DAME O. RUE ST. A @BG M D HMD# # @ M CDK@#NLLTMD/TDRS Notre-Dame Basilica of Montréal Librissime landmarks, Victorian-era man- privacy, while at the same time @M@ M @ M K K . BNLLTM@KS@AKDRVHSG O @ S C !ANNJKNUDQRjCQD@L2@QD H N QD@K KHED-NMSQD@KDQR The 1829 Basilica is Quebec's RUE ST.-SULPICE sions, and late 20th-century fostering an agreeable sense and Rue Notre-Dame M @ K DCHSHNMR@MCTMHPTD@QSDE@BSR . (  QTD-B'HKK A de facto national cathedral. UL E H R L ST.-PA Explore this once-gritty neighbourhood S ENQGNLDKHAQ@QHDR UE skyscrapers that would be at of urban density and street life N Q E R H B D 3 RUE MCGILL where rows of tenement housing have H INGTON E E. home in Manhattan or Singa- that New Urbanists now strive S D UE WELL U Hôtel Nelligan NE N R R MMU been transformed into fashionable condos E 10 Le Petit Navire LA CO RUE ST.-PATRICK # @ An elegant boutique hotel in Old Les Deux E DE pore. But look further to find to capture in contemporary convenient to antique shops and a popular #G@QKDUNHW M @ Centre d’Histoire de Montréal RU C @ Darling Foundry Cruise the river and explore Mont- D Montréal honours beloved 19th Pierrots Montréal’s unique contribution developments. art deco public market, unchanged since it Centre that supports the creation, An architectural oddity for Montréal, réal’s maritime heritage aboard an B century poet Emile Nelligan.  QTD M 3@HMS 0@TK%RS T opened in 1933. In late summer, farmers’ this Dutch-Renaissance rehouse is D . VIEUX POR to urban design along many The best recent contribution production, and dissemination environmentally friendly, electrically 106, rue Saint-Paul Ouest E O Q UN OMENADE DU stalls abound with bushels of sweet corn of contemporary art in order to now a history museum featuring propelled boat. V MM PR Notre-Dame-de- tree-lined residential streets to urban design was a citizens’ RUE ST.-PAUL O. CO @ Q LA Bonsecours Chapel and baskets of wild blueberries. RUE CENTRE extend visual arts into the urban multimedia slices of city life. , D Rue Sainte-Hélène DE laid out in the late 1800s for rejection in the 1990s of gov- U E Pick a bright day to ascend the 138, av. Atwater landscape. Its unusual industrial S H Watch your shadow utter across RU L’Empreinte coopérative, PON M newcomers from the Québec ernment schemes for a high- Quays of the Old Port H 2 TES “Sailor’s Church” portside obser- spaces can house ambitious T DE LA CONCORDE the limestone facades of this gas-lit TIS Gallery-boutique @ AR A meeting place for Montrealers seeking AV. PIERRE-DUPUY DES vation tower. The bronze Mary countryside. rise redevelopment of the Old installations and give artists 3 street in Old Montréal. DE The artist-owners of this ele- ENA a breath of fresh St. Lawrence air or a OM gant arts and crafts cooperative statue has blessed passing 15 scope for poetic intervention. PR Port. Instead, the piers were RUE CHARLEVOIX 20 œKD take turns helping customers ships since 1893. 112 jolt of Montréal vitality. The Quays of the “Stroll through the neighbour- converted to public spaces, B Pointe-à-Callière: Montréal Museum choose just the right treasure OU Old Port has become a cultural focal point, 3@HMSD ( DK?DMD L Pointe St.-Charles B R of Archaeology and History . H hoods of Plateau Mont-Royal, allowing Montréalers to renew R UE featuring large-scale events, terraces, cruise to take home from among the AV. VERDUN E I One of the oldest preserved neigh- D A boldly designed museum of archae- N A famous experiment in urban housing, R many one-of-a-kind creations and you’ll find block after block their historical connection to G ships, and many other expressions of Mont- U R bourhoods in Montréal, Pointe-St.- RUE WELLINGTON E RUE MILL ,@BCDR ology that reveals layers of Montréal’s Habitat 67 was conceived by a young E I on display. - réal’s cultural and artistic diversity. The

D of handsome two- and three- the waterfront.” Charles is eloquent witness of the McGill University student. He’s now one #XFMDR M own settlement along with archaeological U ) Espace VERRE Cirque du Soleil presents a show under C

H nds from other countries. story dwellings, each with its —Jean-Claude Marsan, Professor city’s history as an industrial center. 4GDEHMD@QSNEFK@RRL@JHMFDMCTQDR of the world’s leading architects, Moshe G

A the tent every other year. I BOUL. LASALLE L

M own wrought-iron staircase and Emeritus, School of Architecture, It can be easily toured by bike on the HM@MNKCE@BSNQXCHRSQHBS VGDQD Safdie, and the apartment complex has L ,@3@KKD E new path following the Lachine Canal. @QSHR@MRRGNVXNTGNVSNAKNVFK@RR Université de Montréal L been classied as a historical monument cantilevered wooden balcony. 10 What you see is British-style by the Québec government.

OUTDOOR STAIRCASES TOURISME MONTRÉAL / STÉPHAN POULIN Geotraveler Tips première ville au monde First City in the World How This Go green without even trying: Walk till you drop: The ticket for curious travelers: Explore the town on two wheels: Think Québécois: Don’t be shy about talking to locals: Delve into Montréal’s diversity: Enjoy the city for all seasons: Relax like a native: Make the scene: à signer la Charte en géotourisme To Sign du Center for Sustainable The National Geographic Mapguide This is one city where you can see almost Montréal reminds you of Europe in one ob- The best bargain in town is the 3-day BIXI, an economical public bike sharing Experience the genuine spirit of Québec Montrealers are not offended at being The city boasts more than 80 ethnic Montréal remains lively throughout the Folks here admirably continue Old World Montrealers are understandablyDestinations proud de la National of Center for Sustainable everything without setting foot in a car. vious way beyond language: it is supremely Museum Pass, which for $50 (Canadian) system modeled on Paris, makes it simple by seeking out locally owned lodging, asked questions, even if you don’t know groups—ranging from Haitian and Rwandan calendar. Average temperatures vary from traditions of public life, always taking time their cultural accomplishments,Geographic so Society join the Destination's Geotourism Charter Was Made Montréal is a delightful place to walk, walkable. Most city streets are architec- lets you into 33 different museums with no for visitors to enjoy Montréal’s great cycling restaurants, and shops. The proprietors will French. Almost everyone speaks service- to Greek and Chinese. Indeed, more than 22°C (72°F) in the summer to minus to relax in neighbourhood pubs, brassieries, lively social scene. From art galleries to The people of Montréal helped build boasts one of the best urban bike networks turally attractive, and the superb Métro admission fee. You could start at the famed facilities. Grab a bike at one of the many introduce you to regional specialties rang- able English, but be appreciative of peo- 20% of the population speaks a third 9°C (16°F) in January. But Montrealers bistros, and cafes. Enjoy a rare vacation rock clubs, the opera to the circus, you’ll this MapGuide by nominating the in North America, and provides a clean and system ensures less traffic and fewer drab Montréal Botanical Gardens and Museum of stands with just a swipe of your credit card, ing from rich desserts to handmade crafts. ple’s willingness to speak to you in what for language besides French and English. You don’t hibernate. The streets are bustling, from hustle-and-bustle by joining them for find a wealth of entertainment to meet all www.geomontreal.com places and telling the stories of this convenient subway. There are even miles parking lots to spoil the aesthetics of your Fine Arts, then immerse yourself in history, and then ride away. BIXI is inexpensive for Montréal is also a fashion capital, so the them is a foreign tongue. A good opening can travel the globe inside the city limits even on freezing days. Study fashion- an hour or two. tastes. Get the big picture about what’s city. A diverse alliance, the Montréal of pedestrian tunnels running beneath the stroll. It’s safe to walk too, even at night. cinema, and the solar system. You could short trips. Montréal is criss-crossed with souvenir you bring home could be haute approach is, ”Bonjour, I am from Indiana watching soccer matches in Little Italy conscious locals for tips on how to dress happening by going online at www.info.lavit- Geotourism Council, has formed to center city to shield you on the coldest And when your legs grow weary, there’s end your visit by seing the internationaly bike paths, which are filled with riders even couture instead of a maple leaf sweatshirt. and unfortunately do not speak French.” cafes, donning a mask for the Caribbean sensibly and comfortably for cold weather. rine.com or visiting La Vitrine, a one-stop engage visitors and residents in days. All this keeps your carbon footprint to always a Métro stop nearby to whisk you known Canadian Center for Architecture. in the winter. carnival parade, or learning a Scottish or information center to buy tickets at reduced strategies that sustain and enhance a minimum while maximizing enjoyment. back to your starting point. www.museesmontreal.org/en African dance. prices and find out about free shows. the special qualities of this city.