SUMMER 2006 ...... BlackRockDesert.org

Friends unites diverse users to sustain the health, diversity and productivity of the Black Rock / High Rock Canyon for future generations.

Guru Road, Personified The Safe and Sane Visitor’s By Matthew “Metric” Ebert Guide to Traveling Safely in s you drive north through Gerlach, bearing right on Ato route 34, along side the playa, The Black Rock Region you may notice a road sign off to the left about a mile out By David Book of town. Perhaps you slow down as a rock pillar erected without mortar or cement comes into view. White letters hether you are you hike or horseback into then might attract your eyes as you stop to read, new to the into the Wilderness Areas scratched in the ruddy WBlack Rock / and include the “cherry stone, "Dooby Avenue High Rock area, or are a stem” roads into and West," and "Whatever regular visitor, everyone between them, include You Think About This appreciates the vastness of another 752,000 acres. Road Remember The this area. Excluding the Price Is Right." Wilderness Areas where There are more than 900 motorized travel and miles of roads in the Your curiosity piqued mechanical equipment are National Conservation and deciding you are not allowed, there are Area alone. None of them in no hurry, you drive up the slight crest to see what more than 453,000 acres are paved. This can be there is to see. There you find a target-shaped pattern to visit. (The Playa alone is rugged country and it’s with beckoning rocks covered with words. "Ground almost 105,000 acres, or easy to get lost because Zero," one rock in the middle states, “The Alternative about 164 square miles.) If most roads are poorly (continued on page 4) (continued on page 6)

Memorial Day Camp Out: Tales From The Burn Barrel By Margie Reynolds Boyfriend and dog in tow, I was happy to be back on the road and heading to the desert for the first annual Friends Memorial Day Camp Out, hosted by Will Roger.

Camp was set up at the Cassidy Mine site, just off Soldier Meadows Road which runs along the west arm of the playa. A large flat bluff with plenty of parking offered sweeping views of the Black Rock Desert and the ranges beyond. The that forms on the playa each winter still remained, the winds shifting and morphing it’s shoreline each day.

Friday was spent exploring the tufa along the rim of the playa, and by nightfall a host of Friends had settled in to camp. Photo by Laura Kimpton Friends of Black Rock / High Rock Summer 2006 1

The playa is a remnant of ancient Lake Lahontan. Photo by Bill Kositzky There’s Something About Lake Lahontan By Will Roger Peterson t was 1994 when I first came to them and some how this camp on some of the mountainsides the Black Rock Desert. The occa- looked like it belonged out there on surrounding the dry lake bed had Ision was the burgeoning Burning this sea of playa dust. Fully clothed been puzzling me. These stripes were Man Festival on Labor Day weekend. this time, with my bloody socks layered, maybe several hundred feet There were about 2,000 people showing through my sandals, I apart and some were a mile long or camped out over several square miles limped over to their camp to be longer and perfectly parallel to the of blank dry lake bed. neighborly. They made me feel really ground. They seemed to be made of a comfortable, sat me down, listened rock that was darker then the rest, in The 400 square mile camping area to my laments about fact almost black. was not at all crowded. I immediately my ailments as we took off my clothes and shoes and made friends. After hat day I was working with BLM celebrated my independence from the several hours of cock- TRecreation planner, Mike Bilbo, ‘real’ world and danced around bare- tails and fishing tales I who informed me that the stripes foot and naked. It seemed that I was felt better, as if the desert had were the ancient shoreline of Lake the only one with such enthusiasm captured me and made me different Lahontan, that each stripe represented and the next day I discovered why. My then I had been before I came to it. I 10,000 years. The playa, he said, was skin was so burned from the blazing finally asked my hosts what was up a sediment remnant of the old Lake, sun that I had difficulty laying down. with all the boats out here in this dry over 500 feet deep in spots. He even Worse yet were my feet, cracked to desert place. As if I should have said that a fully intact wooly the bone from the salt and minerals in known, they said they were the Lake mammoth skeleton was found on the the talcum like playa surface. Lahontan Yacht Club. northeast part of the Black Rock Desert near the Quinn River wash. My first time visiting the It was several years later when I heard Desert and after one day, all I could do of Lake Lahontan again. By this time I Apparently this was a very big and was gingerly sit upright in a lawn was one of the organizers of Burning ancient body of water that had left its chair. This forced me to look more Man and spent several months each mark to this day. All of these personal deeply at the things around me and summer on or around the Black Rock and discordant introductions to Lake attempt to enjoy my fate. Desert as director of the desert opera- Lahontan had caused some interest in tions. I had learned to negotiate trav- me to learn more. Close by was an unusual camp made eling on the lake bed by ‘dead reck- up of boats on their trailers that had oning’ or looking for memorable vari- The information on the next page been towed in by pickup trucks. ations in the surrounding landscape about Lake Lahontan was discovered People were living and camping in and using that as a reference point for on the internet. Perhaps you’ll their boats! There were about six of travel. A certain horizontal marking discover more on your own.

2 Summer 2006 Friends of Black Rock / High Rock Ancient Lake Lahontan (Wikipedia) Are You A Rockhound? ncient Lake Lahontan was an enormous lake that AFMS Code Of Ethics Aexisted during the ice age, covering much of north- (American Federation of Mineralogical Societies) western , extending into northeastern California and - I will respect both private and public property and southern Oregon. At its peak approximately 12,700 years will do no collecting on privately owned land ago, the lake had a without the owner's permission. surface area of about - I will keep informed and observe on all laws and 8,000 square miles, regulations governing collecting on public lands. with its largest - I will to the best of my ability, ascertain the component centered boundary lines of property on which I plan to at the location of the collect. present Carson Sink. - I will use no firearms or blasting materials in The depth of the lake collecting areas. was approximately - I will cause no willful damage to property of any 800 feet at present kind: fences, signs, buildings, etc. day , - I will leave all gates as found. and 500 feet at the Black Rock Desert. - I will build fires in designated or safe places only, and will be certain they are completely extinguished before leaving the area. Climate change Ancient Lake Lahontan covered much around the end of - I will discard no burning material - matches, of what is now Nevada. cigarettes, etc. the Pleistocene epoch led to a gradual desiccation of ancient Lake - I will fill all excavation holes which may be dangerous to livestock. Lahontan. The lake had largely disappeared in its extended form by approximately 9,000 years ago. As the surface - I will not contaminate wells, creeks or other water elevation dropped, the lake broke up into series of smaller supply. , most of which rapidly dried up leaving only a playa. - I will cause no willful damage to collecting material These playas include the Black Rock Desert, the Carson and will take home only what I can reasonably use. Sink and the Humboldt Sink. The only modern day - I will practice conservation and undertake to utilize remnants existing as true lakes are Pyramid Lake and fully and well, the materials I have collected and will Walker Lake. Winnemucca Lake has been dry since the recycle my surplus for the pleasure and benefit of others. 1930s and Honey Lake periodically desiccates. The ancient shoreline is evidenced by tufa formations throughout the - I will support the rockbound project HELP, (Help Eliminate Litter Please) and will leave all collecting area and in many places shoreline cliffs are visible. areas devoid of litter, regardless of how found. - I will cooperate with field trip leaders and those in Surprisingly, the watershed feeding Lake Lahontan is not designated authority in all collecting areas. thought to have been significantly wetter during its high- stand than it is currently. Rather, its desiccation is thought - I will report to my club or Federation officers, Bureau of Land Management or other authorities to be mostly due to increase in the evaporation rate as the any deposit of petrified wood or other materials on climate warmed. Recent computer simulations indicate that public lands which should be protected for the if precipitation and evaporation rates within the watershed enjoyment of future generations for public, educa- were maintained at their historical yearly maximum and tional and scientific purposes. minimum, respectively, Lake Lahontan would return. - I will appreciate and protect our heritage of natural resources. The existence of the lake coincided roughly with the first - I will observe the "Golden Rule", will use “Good appearance of humans in that region of North America. Outdoor Manners” and will at all times, conduct myself in a manner which will add to the stature and Archaeological evidence exists along the ancient lake public image of Rockhounds everywhere. shore of early human habitation.

Friends of Black Rock / High Rock Summer 2006 3

(Guru Road, continued) never happen again. The “Elvis” pillar characters, he called them “UFO to Negotiation” says Guru Road is shrouded in an aluminum cloak refueling pylons.” Indeed, mild earth- another. As you travel further, you which shimmers Vegas-style in the quakes have occurred in the region, find rock after rock etched with midday sun. A tee pee made of mysteriously epicentered near these names and commentary-- various willow branches bears the rock- pylons. Somehow Williams was able truths and observations of life, carved instruction "Leave Your Hang- to infuse a timeless, transcendent arranged to elicit thought and Ups Here," and many different things quality into his work, which was a provoke contemplation. Coming out have collected, suspended and continuous process leading up to his the other end, you are glad you took dangling from it. Sit on the chair death in 1995. the time. You have just experienced inside and discover you are looking Guru Road, an incredible monument down into a grave. The inscription n the years following his death, the of Nevada art created by Gerlach reads "Are You Ready For Eternity?" Avenue began to degrade. Weeds native Dewayne “Dooby” Williams, Other installations include “The grewI up through the scorched earth of the Guru of Gerlach. Sagebrush Network" TV station, and “Ground Zero” and obscured other "Aphrodite's Grove.” rocks arranged along the ground. uru Road was built on BLM land Graffiti tainted some of the large rocks, just before the 3-mile including the very one were playaG entrance outside of Williams had carved his own Gerlach between 1973 and name. Harsh desert winds and 1993. It started when winter weather wore down Williams chiseled his name some of the installations, rocks onto a rock, much like the were stolen by passersby, pioneers who passed apparently oblivious to the through nearby High Rock concept of respect and not Canyon 100 years earlier. keen on the idea of public art. Then he added rocks with names of other local inhabi- Williams himself was flippant tants (perhaps all of them) about such things when he and set them along the 2 was alive. He didn’t mind that mile path where he walked the path was alternately called his dogs. Then it blossomed “Dooby Avenue” or “Guru into a series of expressive Road,” stating that a little Photo by Matthew “Metric” Ebert installations. confusion was a good thing. He Begun in 1973, Williams would figured that people were going to react When passing birds were defiling a continuously add to it, often and contribute to the work in their rock with his wife’s name on it, he expressing his own unique brand of own way, and many people have built perches for them to “decorate," dry desert wit. With the assistance of indeed added their own rocks and three pillars of rocks which became his friend Dan Deveny and his son sculptures. streaked with white excrement. A Dewayne Arthur, the Avenue devel- rock nearby declared “Art For The oped and matured over the years. A Still, the unique character of the road Birds and By The Birds.” “Ground rock near a “tree” laden with cow inspired a group of volunteers to Zero” depicts an atomic bomb blast skulls pleaded, “Please Don’t Pick launch a restoration effort in 2003. in different colored rocks, with rings The Fruit.” Many rocks extol the Guided by the site caretaker, Williams’ of dark stones representing every ten virtues of women, of which Williams son Dewayne Arthur, a diverse crew miles from the center. Williams was was known to be particularly fond. has pulled weeds, set buildings in Japan as a U.S. Marine two weeks upright,re-painted installations, poured after atomic bombs were dropped, illiams also created rock pillars concrete, scrubbed spray-painted graf- and he was so affected by the experi- in other parts of the desert, fiti,repaired Elvis’ cloak and turned ence that he built this installation to Wmany of which can still be found over fallen carved rocks. A motorcycle serve as a reminder that it should today. Carved with strange runes and group which frequents the area has

4 Summer 2006 Friends of Black Rock / High Rock created and maintained their own he stood, sketched with white and Dewayne Williams, many people have grotto, which commemorates their red rocks on the ground was buried. suggested continuing to create art friends and comrades who have died Dozens of witty carved rocks, installations and camp sites along the in motorcycle accidents or otherwise. covered by the slide will be difficult rest of the trail. It seemed that Dooby Avenue was or impossible to recover. In a way, taking on new life and vigor. the damage of the rock slide is as he site has a commanding view at much a testament of desert life as the southern gateway to the blank n May 2005, disaster struck. As if to were Williams’ observations. BlackT Rock Desert playa, and is an remind us petty humans who is the excellent place to create memorials, Iboss, Mother Nature unleashed her The damage done, someone sharing which are discouraged throughout the indifferent energies and caused the the same persevering spirit Williams’ NCA. Perhaps in the future a perma- worst damage the site has ever work represents recently removed nent visitors facility will be located just endured. A freakish thunderstorm some of the larger boulders from the before Guru Road, where geothermal pounded Gerlach, dumping inches of path, opening it up to travel by truck. springs could heat and power the rain and flooding many homes and building. Such a structure could serve businesses. A large rock flow swept n the coming months and on into as an example of responsible, balanced down from the Granite Range, over- the future, efforts to preserve and use of our natural land resources and flowing Guru Road and partially Irepair Dooby Avenue will continue. would seem to be in keeping with blocking route 34. Visitors naturally seem to take respon- Dooby’s vision and style. sibility for the road themselves. An Despite the many tons of decom- ongoing effort to collect photographs The 4th Annual Guru Road Restoration posed granite that covered Dooby and video of the road is underway to Project will occur this year on July 15, Avenue, few of the major installations better inform rehabilitation. Since only 2006-- interested volunteers should RSVP were harmed. “Elvis” withstood the the first mile of the two mile stretch of to [email protected] or just show up at the granite tide, but the guitar in which dirt road was originally completed by Road at 8a.m. that day.

Tales From The Burn Barrel (continued) Sunday night, Dan and Paul set up telescopes, capping The next day, BLM planner Dave Lefevre led a caravan off the weekend by showing us the rings of Saturn, dying excursion to Soldier Meadows where we stopped to view stars, far away galaxies and more. By Monday, more than restoration efforts at the hot springs. We then headed two dozen folks from near and far had graced our camp. west, stopping at the old Applegate Trail Wagon Slide and exploring the unique potholes of Fly Canyon. A few miles Join Friends for Will’s next camp out August 11-13. We will beyond, we found ourselves dwarfed by the immense be camped out in the deep playa and the Perseid Meteor rhyolite cliffs of High Rock Canyon. The walls here are Shower will be in full force. BlackRockDesert.org. etched with glyphs dating back to 1860 when pioneers made their way west.

That evening, overlooking a magical sunset, Will mixed up his famous Margaritas and we knoshed on deep-fried turkey. DPW workers from nearby Burning Man Ranch stopped by for happy hour and an abandoned burn Barrel kept the stories flowing way into the night.

Sunday brought more exploration as people headed out on their own. Bill Kositzky had another plan. Donning a wet suit he headed for the playa, determined to take a dip in Black Rock Lake. A dive (aka belly flop) delivered him smack into the mud, and it was all caught on camera.

Friends of Black Rock / High Rock Summer 2006 5 signed at best. Smaller roads some- The tow company often can’t be times fork, with no indication on reached and if they can, it may be too IMPORTANT ITEMS FOR your map. Be observant when travel- remote for them. Local tow services HIKERS TO CARRY ling unmarked roads. will often tow from the back country but will charge premium rates. 1. Map of the area If you are travelling on the Playa there 2. Compass are other things to watch for. Despite the remoteness and size of 3. Flashlight with spare Distances are misconstrued because it the area, it’s important to know that batteries and bulb is so large and flat, and it is void of most people don’t get lost. Rather 4. Sunglasses and typical landmarks. Use caution at they’ve gotten stuck, broken down, sunscreen higher speeds. Playa Serpents, bumps had medical problems and in some 5. Extra food and water in the playa caused by weather, can cases have even lost their car. Self- 6. Extra clothing, hat, halt a car in it’s tracks, flipping and reliance and preparedness is the key! gloves, rain gear etc. causing injury or death. Stay on the 7. Waterproof matches main “roads” when possible. A few simple precautions can help 8. Fire starter ensure a safe trip. Enjoy! 9. Pocket knife The Playa surface is often wet and 10. First aid kit impassable. Do NOT travel on the playa if it is wet. You will get mired in the mud and it’s not an easy situation to get out of.

For overnighters or those needing supplies, note there is only one devel- oped campground in the NCS and other facilities are few. Soldier Meadows Ranch does not carry gas or items for the public.

You won’t find any phone booths out here, and most cell phone communi- cation dies just outside of Gerlach and Empire. I’ve had people tell me Playa Serpents arise in unexpected places. Use caution! of areas on the Playa where they have cell communication but I have yet to find one, although I have found a few areas in Humboldt County near Jungo. Satellite telephones work but are not carried by most people. Citizen’s Band radios are usually limited to about a 5 mile range although occasionally a signal will “bounce” extraordinary distances--- but do you really want to talk to somebody in Atlanta about your problems in the Black Rock? Amateur radio will work but there are few radio repeaters near the area. If your vehicle breaks down, beware. The consequences of driving too fast..

6 Summer 2006 Friends of Black Rock / High Rock TIPS FOR SAFE TRAVELLING IN THE BLACK ROCK / HIGH ROCK REGION

1. One Spare or Two? Roads out here are tough Transportation also produces a decent map. on tires. “Donut” spares lose air and they have a BEWARE. Many map atlases do not indicate limited life. Consider bringing a second spare. actual road conditions. Often a town is indicated, Check your jack and tire tools. Make sure they without noting there are no services because it are in your car and you know how to use them. hasn’t been occupied for 100 years! Keep track of your location on the map. I often write down 2. Other Handy Essentials: A shovel, boards for odometer readings at a known points so I know jacking your car, a second jack or high lift jack, a almost exactly where I am. tow strap, jumper cables, tire chains, and some simple hand tools will solve many problems. 9. Get “Chuck Dodd’s Guide To Getting Around Don’t forget the universal items: duct tape, The Playa.” Chuck is an expert in the history, bailing wire, toilet paper, sunscreen, and a hat. travel and roads of this area. He has written an excellent guide to the Black Rock area which is 3. Bring Extra Food. If you break down on one of available at the store in Empire, Bruno’s in the larger roads someone will be by eventually Gerlach. It’s a must-have, and is worth every but it could take a day or two. Extra water and a penny whether you are new or a seasoned visitor. few cans of chili can make a difference. Don’t forget the can opener. 10. Know Before You Go: Visit the web sites. www.nv.blm.gov/Winnemucca 4. Be Prepared For Weather. Summer tempera- www.blackrockhighrockinfo.net tures are often over 100 degrees, with little www.blackrockdesert.org shade except what you brought yourself. Nights None of these sites are guaranteed to have are cool and in winter often dip below the teens. 100% up-to-date information, particularly on Afternoon thunderstorms are not uncommon and more remote roads so make your decisions it can hail in July. Always bring space blankets, wisely and if unsure, check with the BLM before sleeping bags, and a tarp or tent for shelter. going.

5. Fill Up The Tank! The next gas station is a long 11. Multiple Vehicle Travelling. If you are traveling ways away. Even topping off one or two gallons with more than one vehicle in a party (always a could make a difference. good idea) leave room between the vehicles so if one gets stuck, the other won’t as well. 6. IF YOU BREAK DOWN, STAY WITH THE VEHICLE. SEARCH AND RESCUE TEAMS 12. Carry a GPS. GPS are useful for finding spots ALMOST ALWAYS FIND THE VEHICLE FIRST. on the Playa, especially entrances at nighttime, If you aren’t there, they then need to start a hot springs, and other specific locations but they second, harder search. are really an adjunct to a good map and compass. Knowing where you are doesn’t mean 7. Leave A Detailed Itinerary. Stick to your plan you can fix the situation. and have them call the Sheriff if you don’t return on time. If you just indicate you’ll be “north of 13. Pay Attention To Landmarks. If you are Gerlach” it’s almost impossible to mount a search hiking, hunting, biking, or riding ATV’s, pay atten- and rescue mission. Be specific about your areas tion to landmarks near your car such as a distinc- of travel. tive mountain, an intersection of roads, the loca- tion of your vehicle relative to a canyon, or some- 8. Carry A Good Map . New maps from the BLM thing similar. Be able to find your vehicle when are now available for download on our web site, you return. If you have to leave your vehicle, take BlackRockDesert.org. Nevada Department of some emergency gear with you.

Friends of Black Rock / High Rock Summer 2006 7 Sempra Energy puts coal Free NCA Transportation plant plans on "Pause" Maps Now Available Previously, maps for the Black Rock Desert and Sempra Energy of San Diego has suspended their plans to build a large coal combustion power plant in the Smoke High Rock Canyon area have been problematic. Creek Desert 12 miles from Gerlach and adjacent to the They were not up-to-date, inaccurate and did not Black Rock NCA. contain critical information.

The controversial project, known as Granite Fox, would The BLM, using the have been one of the largest new coal power plants in the latest GPS and GIS tech- U.S., with a rail spur to accommodate the coal cars from Wyoming and an unprecedented tap of the adjacent Pacific nology, has produced, DC Intertie to serve the electricity to the area. accurate, usable maps for the NCA and associ- A combination of political factors most likely contributed ated wilderness areas. to the decision-- a sister plant in was denied by a Maps are free. Chuck Dodd moratorium on any new coal power plant construction, and the California Public Utilities Commission formed policies to prohibit the purchase of coal-produced power The series of five maps accurately shows roads from other states. Sempra maintains that the project is not and wilderness area boundaries allowing users to abandoned, still has merit, and is offering their collected better get around in the area. Maps are available at data for sale to another developer. Indeed, although pollu- the Visitor Information Trailer, located just north tion concerns were frequently cited, the exploitation and of Gerlach on high-use weekends from June - exportation of water resources from the Smoke Creek September. They are also available at the basin proved to be a more contentious issues for neighbors of the project. Winnemucca and Surprise Valley (Cedarville) BLM Field Offices. You can also download the maps For more information go to www.granitefoxpower.com or from our website, www.blackrockdesert.org www.nevadacleanenergy.org

Friends of Black Rock / High Rock P.O. Box: 50430 Reno, Nevada 89513

8 Summer 2006 Friends of Black Rock / High Rock