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tech talk

Dive team member sheds light on old mining equipment left in Felicitas Mine.

Text and photos by Andrea “Murdock” Alpini. Archive photo courtesy of Wolfgang Röhr The more time passes, the less the distance is that separates one from the object of one’s desire—in this case, it was a place. With time spent seeking, observing, studying, writing and pinning drafts of questions, all waiting for an answer, I decided to follow a line of inquiry into diving an old German slate mine in Schmallenberg (east of Düsseldorf) to understand its feasibility, aesthetic beauty and historical meaning.

Only a few hours separated me from the place where German miners had worked for centuries. My team and I were going to dive this mine, called Felicitas, where hundreds of workers had lived and dreamed for decades, covered by a soft, sooty layer of slate, advancing ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI through tunnels and caressing the black dreams of ancient slate rocks, which Felicitas— Diving a GermanMine Black Slate Mine coexisted with the personal loneliness of cold water, rocks, forgotten stories and spent breath. We would be descending in the past: “The anonymous history is base camp in Hütten. In the last few days, we would drop off cylinders and spots Fifty kilometers separated us from our below the edge of the earth, to move stratified.” we had measured more than a thousand where we would place our directional arrival at the mine. As we neared the closer to the surface of life. Our story meters of cave line. We clarified our main markers. My caving van was filled with 19 site, I noticed that the façades of houses would become just another layer upon Day One targets and the areas of the mine I wished deco cylinders and twinsets, ready to be were black, as were the roofs. The hous- those left by the miners of Felicitas Mine In the morning, we moved out from our to film. We fixed our checkpoints where used in the Felicitas Mine. es were built in a purely German style

74 X-RAY MAG : 103 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Team member brings dive equipment into tech talk Felicitus Mine for the dive expedition. Felicitas Mine

called “Fachwerkhäuser.” Looking out Far away in the distance, at the end of the car window, it seemed like we were the field on the left, I saw a cement turret on top of Golgotha Mountain during an rising over the corn plants. It marked the Easter of biblical proportions; the sky was end of the left branch of the mine—one obscured by deep black clouds, in the of our main targets. Looking at it and esti- same color as our surroundings. This black mating the distance that we would have was more than a shadow, it was authori- to cover later, while swimming on open tarian, fascinating, and it absorbed all circuit, was impressive. The right branch, the rays of opalescent light. also known as “The Old Mine,” was clos- er; that is, it was 530m from the starting Day Two point of the dive. Today, we wanted to Approaching the mine was exciting. As reach the end of it. we neared the site, we saw the old road sign that read “Abela Heilstollen” the When we got inside the dry part of the name later used for the Felicitas Mine. I mine, everything was the same as it had

wished to be there, inside the mine, at been left a few decades ago when the ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI the water’s edge. As soon as we arrived mine ceased operations and was sold to at the site, I started walking around the a new owner for another business. Slate Our team started to unload the heavy During our second dive, we explored When we arrived at a fork, we entered ancient barracks. We were surrounded machinery had been abandoned inside from the van. We split 270m of old tunnels, leaving directional an old brick tunnel—a stunning sight. by cornfields. the chamber. the equipment into three groups: my markers with distances, and clipping Below us, the ancient rail track slid away. own, my colleague Gianni Cecchi’s, safety gas cylinders along the way. We We were now 350m away from the and finally, my other colleague Flavio also visited the Santa Barbara—a real entrance, more or less, and 170m sepa- Cavalli’s. Flavio was our surface assistant bunker where explosives had been rated us from our “touchdown” goal. and gas-mixing supervisor (checking stored. A layer of concrete had separat- Along the way, we observed that many regulators, tanks MOD), and last but not ed the TNT from the slate tunnel. Inside, parts had collapsed; sometimes, it was least, our interpreter for Wolfgang Röhr, the room looked like a bank vault. What I the walls and other times, it was debris owner of the mine and archival photos. saw in front of my eyes was not so differ- that had fallen from the ceiling. ent from the Kaaba in Mecca. Our daily plan consisted of three differ- Large ruins marked the area at around ent dives, each one with a different final We had placed the stages and markers 430m. We had to swim another 100m goal. The very first dive would focus only for our third dive of the day. Now, it was before we reached the farthest end of on setting down our sturdy main line, a time to come back and start decom- the old branch of the mine. The ambi- 120m length of solid 8mm rope. During the pression. ence of the space was sometimes scary second dive, we would carry six cylinders and gloomy. This part of the mine was of safety gas (in the end) and EAN 50 plus At 7:10 p.m., we put our heads under- very tricky and precarious to navigate. , at 21m and 6m depths, to com- water again. We left at Flavio’s “OK” plete our procedures. At signal and swam the first 120 meters of Visiting the right branch of the mine was a the end of the main line, we came to a T.. the mine; we had to be quick about it to great adventure—definitely a “must-see” Turning left brought one directly into the save time for the next part of the dive. place in Felicitas. We then returned back new part of the mine. On the opposite We wanted to reach the end of the Old to the main T where the path split. side was the old part of Felicitas Mine. Mine’s tunnel. WOLFGANG RÖHR WOLFGANG Historical archive photo of the Felicitas miners class of 1958

75 X-RAY MAG : 103 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Stage cylinders were clipped onto the tech talk main line in Felicitas Mine by a team Felicitas Mine member.

Here, I found myself in front of a sacred main tunnel with additional side chambers. shrine made of iron. It was a holy place It was in 1997 when Felicitas Mine finally where miners used to pray every day closed down its extractive operations. before starting their jobs but also before leaving the mine. On my left, I could see My mind drifted back to our earlier our floating deco cylinders, clipped onto dive… We had dived around noon. Our the line. I seemed to struggle between a planned bottom time was 50 minutes, just “holy and profane love.” enough time to drop our cylinders for fur- ther progression. Day Three Fifteen minutes to 6:00 p.m. The third dive Today, we would not explore the mine to of the day awaited us in Felicitas. Earlier, the end, so we decided to simulate differ- in the morning, we had placed the emer- ent diving scenarios instead. We wanted gency line along the left branch. Large, to be ready for the main dive tomorrow. empty spaces and huge machinery left inside the modern part of the mine char- We spent a lot of time below the Steel acterized this area, which comprised a Barrel Tunnel, which climbed upwards; ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI the steel here seemed to be very fragile. aid of a (DPV). time to swim quickly. Today, we wanted On top of the barrel, some massive, huge The afternoon ran late and to reach the final target: the end of the stones covered its roof. of the day was calling to us, the most left branch. Felicitas Mine was awaiting. demanding one. We needed to drop off We had to go west! Exiting the Steel Barrel Tunnel and mov- the heavy 20-liter tank filled with Helitrox ing to the right, about ten meters ahead, 30/10 at the farthest checkpoint on the Thirty-five minutes had passed when we more or less, we found the first of the map. This was our “home plate.” reached the planned checkpoint: the large-scale empty chambers where slate “anvil” 20l tank of . Now that we was mined. To the left of the main path, For the first time, we passed over the final had reached it, I thought to myself, we there was a small storage area; we used fork. Here, the tunnel was narrow, and are not too far from “The End.” Staying its rooftop as cylinder pick-up/drop-off we plodded ahead, like a horse in train- focused on , being calm and stations. All around us, it was muddy and ing. Slow thoughts passed through my relaxed… this was what we had to do. sometimes silty. Most likely, the silt had mind and brought me back to the main It was a blind tunnel, with no way out been stirred up by unstable rocks that T. Another tough day in the and no chance to find a different way had fallen down. mine was over. back. We had to pay careful attention while we swam and moved forward, as We continued ahead and later, we went Day Four with one wrong frog kick, visibility would back, passing the same spots again and The Big Wednesday had come. We were quickly drop to zero. again, which helped me memorize this submerged up to our hips. I switched on place, which was wrapped in darkness. my powerful video lights. Here, at the end of all the black shad- At the end of the day, we calculated ows we had left behind, the slate was that our full length of penetration (and No video shooting had taken place on simply amazing. A stunning scene and return) was 1,500m, with each of us carry- our way in. We had spread our stage atmosphere surrounded Gianni and me. ing four to six cylinders at all times, using tanks with extra gases on the main line I filmed the moment, as I knew I would only our fins to move forward, without the during the last two dives, so now it was want to relive it again and again later. ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI The dive team with all the dive equipment needed to dive the Felicitas Mine

76 X-RAY MAG : 103 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI

tech talk Felicitas Mine

Behind the wooden and corroded steel ladders was raw slate in various colors (above). A shrine of iron (left) was the place in Felicitas where miners used to pray every day before starting their jobs and also when leaving the mine. ANDREA “MURDOCK” ALPINI The rocks of Felicitas felt crisp tion and left the black shadows these were my thoughts when I dive expeditions, he shoots foot- cuit system. His first book, Deep For more information on courses, and sharp to us, and we were behind, the darkness swallowed left Germany in the summer of age of wrecks and writes pres- Blue, about scuba diving explo- expeditions and dived wrecks, enthralled by their colors, which everything on the path. 2020. Diving inside the German entations for conferences and ration (in Italian) was released please visit: wreckdiving.it. ranged from black to yellow, gray slate mine was a human journey articles for dive publications and in January 2020 (see amazon.it). to fire-red, and finally to bright Only human memory can pre- through historical, economic and websites such as ScubaPortal, light blue. Awesome! serve the spirit of life that had anthropological times. Relitti in Liguria, Nautica Report, lived here. The mine does not SUB Underwater Magazine, I was breathless, without words. care how powerful the lights that Goodbye, foreign land.  Scuba Zone, Ocean4Future you bring inside its rocky belly are; and InDepth. He is also member In front of me there appeared to it will always give you darkness The dive team included Andrea of the Historical Diving Society be two stairways to heaven. The and obscurity in return. “Murdock” Alpini, Gianni Italy (HDSI), and holds a mas- first one was a wooden ladder, Cecchi and Flavio Cavalli. The ter’s degree in Architecture and and the second one was made In July 1969, Man left a footprint team’s sponsors included PHY an MBA in Economics of Arts. of steel now corroded. Climbing on the moon. One of the most Diving Equipment, Scubatec, He is the founder of Phy Diving these ladders was the only quick beautiful memories I collected Tecnodive, Big Blue Lights and Equipment (phidiving.com), which exit this mine had. The entrance from Felicitas Mine was the sight TEMC gas analyzers. specializes in undergarments for was 650m away, reaching it dur- of the workers’ footprints on the diving, as well as drysuits, hoods ing an emergency was impossible ancient ground. Along the tunnels Based in Italy, author Andrea and tools for cave and wreck on foot, let alone by swimming. of the mine, tracks and traces of “Murdock” Alpini is a . Among other wrecks, he Now, it was time to go back. anonymous miners, pickers and for TDI, CMAS, has dived the wrecks serial drinkers will remain forever, and ADIP. Diving since 1997, he heritage, Malin Head’s wrecks Day Five: The End frozen in time. is a professional diver focused on and the HMHS Britannic (-118m), The beginning of the mine cor- advanced trimix , log FW58C (-110m), SS Nina (-115m), responded with its end. Miners or To return to Felicitas to learn more dives with open circuit, decom- Motonave Viminale (-108m), divers must walk the same steps about its stories and secrets, pression studies, and research on SS Marsala (-105m), UJ2208 before reaching the surface discover more forks and find wrecks, mines and caves. Diving (-107m) and the submarine U-455 again. When one changed direc- more beautiful places to film… uncommon spots and arranging (-119m)—always on an open cir-

77 X-RAY MAG : 103 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO