Lesvos or lies among the northeastern Aegean islands close to the Turkish mainland. Lesvos has its own airport. Big and beautiful, Lesvos is the third largest Greek island after and Evia and, in parts at least, has arms stretched wide to embrace the package tourist market. As yet, olive oil and are still the most important commodities in the local economy. The islanders also have a strong and proud identity, marked by long cultural traditions. For the visitor, the attractions may not be as many nor the landscape as lovely as other Greek islands. But Lesvos is quietly impressive, especially to those looking for the delights of more provincial Greek life. Specific attractions are sightseeing, quaint villages and some splendid beaches.

The third largest of all the Greek islands, Lesvos demands both time and transport for a full appreciation. Resorts are scattered widely and overland road links can be bad enough to wreck a car's suspension.

While little on Lesvos stands out, this eclectic island has hidden treasures. There are wonderful beaches, fascinating villages and interesting towns, though you face dreary tracts of olive groves to savour them.

The huge variety of flora and fauna is a magnet for botanists and for bird watchers, especially in the spring and in the migrating season when many birds rest in the island wetlands.

Many visitors to Lesvos come to dip themselves in one of the many healing hot water springs that are found at several resorts across Lesvos. Mytilini Lesvos MYTILINI or is the island capital and a big, messy and noisy port of some 30,000 people (a third of the island's total population).

It has its grim side, especially in industrial areas dominated by tall, belching chimneys of the olive oil refineries. The waterfront, though noisy and crowded, is very pleasant with a double harbour separated by a 6th century castle- topped headland.

The southern harbour takes all the tourist ferry traffic while the northern one has suffered neglect, though there are recent signs of a cleanup.

The city's main attractions remain its castle and a wealth of good museums. The castle, founded in the 6th century and rebuilt by the Genoese in the late 14th, has buildings from all periods as well as the remains of a Roman cistern and some Turkish prison cells.

Entrance charges are moderate for a glimpse of some fine Roman sculptures and mosaics plus a nice display of jewellery. Popular concerts are held here in the summer and attractive picnic tables perch in the pines below.

Museums are plentiful and impressive. On the waterfront, the old harbourmaster's house now hosts the Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts with its Roman reliefs and Greek mosaics.

The Theophilos Museum is as delightful as it is unexpected, stuffed with 86 paintings by the island's folk artist Theophilos Chatzimichael.

Around 4km south, through some dreary suburbs, are the Teriade Library and a Museum of Modern Art that boasts illustrations by even more unexpected if better-known artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Chagal,and Miro. Both collections are the legacy of Lesvos-born art critic and publisher Stratis Teriade.

There is also a very fine collection of icons in the Byzantine Museum beneath the impressive dome of Agios Therapon. And, as if that weren't enough, there is a mock-up of a 19th century Lesvos village house and a museum of costume and embroidery.

The waterfront is the focus of most tourist activity and worth an evening stroll, though passing traffic can be a noisy nuisance. The narrow main shopping street just behind has a hectic mix of shops and stalls. Full of surprises, the city even has its own 'Statue of Liberty' erected by one of the island's emigrating sons on his return to the homeland.

The city boasts plenty of tavernas noted for their fish dishes, especially sardines, for which the island is famed. There is a small, and mediocre, man- made beach at Tsamakia that you pay to enjoy. It has changing rooms, showers and a cantina but it gets very crowded.

Fine public gardens can be found near the beach and to the north east is the Hellenistic Theatre, reputed to have held 10,000 people in its heyday, but now more of a home to scrub and weed. When the Roman emperor Pompeii visited he was so impressed he ordered a replica to be built in Rome.

Agios Emerogenis Lesvos The coastline to the south of Mytilini passes through dull and dreary suburbia to the airport and some uninspiring countryside beyond.

The paved road ends at the village of KRATIGOS. There is a half decent beach and taverna some distance beyond at KHARAMIDA, but it is a long trek to get there.

However, 4km east on the mouth of the Gulf of Geras is the charming AGIOS ERMOGENIS with its idyllic double beaches slung either side of a chapel- topped rocky promontory and a wonderful taverna tucked into the pine clad hillside behind. Don't expect solitude though, some days it appears as though the whole island has discovered it.

Many take the road through LOUTRA to get to Agios Ermogenis, and at nearby SKALA LOUTRA some indulge in a bath at one of the island's five thermal spas.

Others head here to catch a ferry across the GULF OF GERA to PERAMA. The gulf itself has a few tiny beaches, but nothing worth seeking out. Densely packed olive groves push right down to the seashore. Skala Sikaminias Lesvos The road heads north out of Madamados to the charming north coast village of SIKAMINIA with its attendant fishing hamlet of SKALA SIKAMINIAS, even more hopelessly charming.

The road runs down the steep hill to the impossibly picturesque harbour which is buried beneath huge plane trees, enclosed by a concrete jetty and tipped by a tiny chapel of Panagia Gorgona (Mermaid Madonna) set into the rock. The little church is also known as Panagia Ton Psaradon (Madonna of the Fishermen) and has been an inspiration for writers and painters. Indeed, it takes its name from a wall painting by an anonymous folk painter which shows the Virgin with a mermaid's tail.

Taverna tables line the harbour in the shade of the trees. A more romantic setting would be pretty hard to find, even in . Tourist boats arrive regularly from Molivos and many rent rooms here for a two or three day stopover. The village's sunset views are renowned.

Beaches are in short supply around here, though there is a pebble strand at KAID. Further east down a 6km dirt track is a 600m swathe of pink volcanic stone at TSONIA where there is a small summer taverna and cafe beneath the trees.

Tsonia is known locally as the 'hot beach' and boats often call in here after dropping tourists off at Skala Sikaminias. There is another even more remote beach on the southern side of the bay at LIMANI. Molyvos Lesvos MOLIVOS or MOLYVOS is the main holiday destination on the island and a spectacularly beautiful one. Solid grey stone houses are topped with red tiled roofs and many old timbered buildings have been meticulously restored. The market in the centre is shaded by lovely wisteria though full of tourist trinket shops. Steep, cobbled and traffic-free streets lead up to an imposing Genoese fortress that is romantically illuminated at night.

Down from the market is a narrow, cobbled main street, again overhung with vines and flowers and stuffed with craft shops, artists galleries and souvenir sellers. Tavernas along here have superb views over the sea so expect to pay more for a meal.

At the bottom is a very pretty fishing harbour lined with tavernas (where you can find excellent fish dishes but again pay a premium) and a long, narrow,stony and rather mediocre beach to the south.

The town end of the beach is best with sand underfoot in the shallows while the southern end, though less crowded, has large underwater boulders and a sea full of spiky urchins. Fortunately the mini resort that has sprung up behind the beach is much in keeping with the old town itself.

Beautiful as it is Molivos feels much like a tourist stage set and little in the way of authentic Greek life is to be seen. The whole place is just so tasteful it seems untrue.

The number of excursion boats and tour buses testifies to its attractions as a resort. Other attractions of interest include a small museum, open air cinema and a big festival of music and theatre in midsummer.

West of Sikaminias, along the coast road, is EFTALOU where there is a pebble and sand beach overlooked by several new hotels and served daily by buses from Molivos.

The beach is set below a cliff and fringed with trees. It is mostly round pebbles with a few sand patches here and there. There is an excellent taverna and bath house for those wishing to enjoy the nearby thermal springs.

There is a newly renovated baths where you can hire your own private tub or you can swim along the shore where hot mineral water seeps through the rocks into the sea to create warm pools.

Less public parts of the beach are favoured by nudists and there are several small coves to be found by walking eastwards along the coast to towards Skala Sikaminias Petra Lesvos The road follows the coast south of Molivos to PETRA where there is a wide bay of fine, grey sand dominated by the prominent 18th century church of Panagia Glykofilousa which crowns a sheer rock outcrop.

Visit the church if you must but be prepared to negotiate around 120 steps to do it. At the foot of the rock are a few lovely old houses set in narrow winding lanes, many with wooden balconies.

The church of Agios Nikolaos in the village centre is rather more interesting than the one on the rock, with some very fine 16th century frescoes.

Petra has more recently become a main target for package tour firms and this has thrown up an ugly sprawl of tourist development along the back of the long, wide beach with associated bars, discos and car rentals.

The lack of a decent sands at nearby Molivos also makes Petra the target of large numbers of day trippers. A women's co-operative runs its own taverna and offers visitors more unusual and local crafts.

Just off the road south out of Petra is the sprawling mountain village of STIPSI whose huge tavernas are the main candidates for bus loads of tourists out on 'Greek Nights'. This is also a noted hill walking and donkey trekking area with sparkling views over the sea. Lesvos The road west out of forks west and south. To the west is the remote seaside village of SIGRI approached down a long road over the broad coastal plain.

It is a quiet fishing harbour with a fine but small Turkish fortress built in 1757 and a narrow sheltered crescent of sand and pebble that shelves gently into the sea.

The island of NISSOPI provides shelter for the coast and anchorage for NATO warships which has resulted in restricted access to parts of the coast. The village centre is modern and dull but the harbour area has a much more traditional feel, though some of it is obviously fake and tarted up to appeal to tourists - there is even a 'Cycladic' windmill.

But there are plenty of good tavernas and its remoteness helps keep visitor numbers down. It can be so quiet that some visitors have likened it to a ghost village and it does have that end-of-the-world feel, ideal though for those looking for a relaxed holiday.

The petrified forest is nearby and a new forest visitor centre has sprung up just outside the village. Some of the best specimens of petrified tree trunk are to be found near here along a path to the south, well marked with yellow triangles.

The village beach is good enough, though rather hemmed in by the road. The seas are shallow and a regular offshore breeze keeps sunbathers cool. It is remarkable that the village has not been overrun with windsurfers, as conditions in the wide bay are often ideal.

There are several isolated coves to be found north and south. FANEROMENI in the north probably the best - a lovely arc of sand set at the mouth of a river, though the waters here are not shallow.

The best to the south is at TSICHLIODA where tall grasses spring up at the end of a long valley - a haven for migrating birds. Eressos Lesvos Inland from the resort, through lush and fertile farmland, is ERESSOS village which sits at the bottom of a wild and grand mountain gorge.

Unspoiled, with interesting old houses, tiny shops and really good tavernas some consider this the best and most authentically old-Greek village on the whole island. There are ruins of a 5th century church next the archaeological museum.

A nice sandy beach with shallow waters can be found at TAVARI south of MESOTOPOS. There are a couple of cantinas and a small harbour. Kaloni Lesvos When it comes down out of the hills the road mostly hugs the coastline around the western edge of Bay but there is little of interest here apart from the wild countryside and fine views over the bay itself.

It eventually forks, with the north road leading to KALONI, or KALONIS. This is an unremarkable, even dull, market village lying on flat farming country in more or less in the middle of the island and about 45km west of Mytilini.

It's not bad for a spot of shopping, especially for jewellery and crafts for which Kaloni is noted. Its position makes it a major intersection for buses and, if you are a touring the island, you can bank on passing through at some time. Skala Kalonis Lesvos To the south of Kaloni, about 3km, and on the edge of the Gulf of Kaloni is the beach resort of SKALA KALONIS now a major package resort thanks to a long beach of coarse sand backed by tamarind trees.

There are plenty of tavernas, apartments and small hotels to cater for the tourists and it can feel overcrowded and busy.

The sands are long and deep and the waters generally calm and shallow, making it an ideal place for children, although a prolonged stay could prove rather dull if you yearn for more than sea, sand and a sun bed.

Sardines from the sheltered Gulf of Kaloni are prized throughout Greece and if you like them it is worth visiting tavernas near the harbour where the freshest catch of the day is served up.

In August they hold the Skala Kaloni Sardine Festival in the village square with free ouzo and sardines as well as music and dancing. There are plenty of tavernas, both in the harbour and along the beach, with some shops and a bakery in the village square.

The resort's other attraction is birds. Thousands of birds descend on the river and the salt pans, rivers, reed beds and other wetland areas for the spring nesting season and even flamingos can be seen in the shallow waters edging the gulf. Plomari Lesvos PLOMARI is the only settlement in the south of any size. A charming if slightly dilapidated town, it is the second largest on the island and home to around 10,000 inhabitants many of whom work in the many ouzo distilleries. Despite the lack of beaches it has no shortage of visitors in the summer to enjoy the luxuriant surroundings, the charm of a lively port and some of the best ouzo in Greece, including the excellent Barbayiannis label.

Many houses have timbered, overhanging galleries and there are several Turkish fountains and Ottoman-style architecture. There are a number of good tavernas around the palm fringed harbour and a small stony beach in the Amoudhelli suburbs to the west, although it is meagre and not particularly attractive.

A longer and better pebble beach can be found to the east where the road turns inland across a creek but there are even better beaches at MELINDA about 6km out of town where a pebble beach lies next to some remarkable rock formations.

The best beach is to the east, past a semi-industrial landscape of abandoned factories and tall chimneys, at AGIOS ISIDOROS which boasts a good long stretch of coarse sand.

The shallows are ideal for snorkeling as the rock formations are full of sea-life, though the bays are not sheltered and the waters can get choppy. Several hotels have been built along this part of the shoreline. Agiassos Lesvos North over the mountain from Plomari is the lovely village of AGIASSOS sitting high on the slopes of the pine covered hills and a favourite target for excursion tours.

Leafy tavernas and tourist shops filled with tat line the cobbled streets beneath the medieval castle. The village is also known for a two-week festival in August centred on the 19th century Panagia ti Vrefokratousa and a reputedly 'miracle' icon of the Virgin Mary.

Pilgrims flock here and many of the kitsch souvenirs are squarely aimed at the religious market. The present church was built in 1812 after fire destroyed the original 11th century building and it now has one of the finest interiors you will find.

Another festival in mid-September celebrates a reputed remnant of the holy cross that is kept in the church.

The village is about 26km from Mytilini and a maze of narrow streets and pleasant houses. Many have upper floors with projecting wooden balconies often bedecked with flowers. The village is also know for its crafts, with pottery and weaving sold everywhere. Lesvos Petrified Forest The road north out of Eressos takes you past the island's much advertised PETRIFIED FOREST which was formed when the Mt. Ordymnos erupted and drowned the trees in ash, an estimated 20million years or so ago. Earth tremors helped submerge the forest further, eventually turning the trees to stone.

At 3km across it is bigger than the better known petrified forest in Arizona. But generations of souvenir hunters have walked off with the best examples and what few tree stumps remains can sadly disappoint those making the 2km walk from Sigri to see them.

Locals seem amazed that anyone would want to trek through barren countryside to look at such a meagre collection of dried up tree stumps and they may have a point.

Set high on a former volcano is the handsome IPSILOU monastery founded in the 9th century and rebuilt in the 12th. It well worth a visit just to enjoy the splendid courtyard, small museum of ecclesiastical oddments and inevitable bits of petrified wood. It once had some fine frescoes but these were touched- up in the early 1990s and no longer worth seeing. Visitors must also ignore the cluster military buildings that share the same site if they want to enjoy the heady views.