River Tyne ­ Haddington to East Linton ​ Fauna

Birds ○ Carrion Crow, Wood Pigeon ○ Mute swan, Grey heron, Mallard, Dipper ○ House sparrow, Robin, Wren, Chaffinch ○ Tits: blue, great, long­tailed ○ Wagtails: pied, grey ○ Blackcap ○ Kingfisher? ○ Goosander?

Mammals ○ Sheep, type? ○ Highland cattle ○ Roe Deer ○ Otter ○ Water vole?

Fish ○ The Tyne was famous as a sea­trout stream and whilst these fish are still caught, the river is fished mostly for brown trout today. ○ Eels ○ three­spined stickleback

Insects (Nick or duncan) ​ ○ Butterflies ■ Peacock ■ Little tortoisehell ■ Speckled wood, recent arrival ■ Orange tips ■ Ringlet ■ moth: Emporer moth, ‘eyes’ at wing tips Flora

Trees ○ ??! ○ Poplar wood (downstream Sandy’s mill)

Flowers ○ Bluebells ○ Daffodils ○ Dogs mercury. highly poisonous ​ ○ Vipers Bugloss ○ Sweet Cicely. Aniseed … Invasive … ■ Non­native species like Japanese knotweed and American signal crayfish cost the Scottish economy around £244 million each year. ■ If die in winter, allow bank erosion ■ So prolific, smother any other plant ○ Butterbur ○ Wild garlic/Ramsons. Fat leaves ■ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_vineale ■ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_oleraceum ○ Few­flowered garlic/leek. Thinner leaves. Edible ■ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_paradoxum ○ Himalayan balsam. 50k seeds ○ Giant hogweed. Sap causes sun blisters for years ○ Japanese knotweed. Can regenerate from thumbnail size. Locations maps: 1682 1799 OS six Inch 1850 ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ Haddington (pop 10k) ​ ● Haddington’s most ancient building is St Martin's Church, now ruinous but reputed to be the oldest church in Scotland. ● Bermaline Mill ● ??

Amisfield Park ● House demolished 1928 ● Council bought park 1969. ● Golf course ?? ● Trees: ○ West: Oak, lime, mostly >150yrs. Beech, spanish chestnut, larch, sycamore ○ East: Wellingtonia, firs douglas, grecian, red cedar, larch japanese, common yews ● Weir late 18C For mill lades. And fishing? ● Walled garden: Friends 1999. recently restored

Abbey Bridge (or DE)/mains/farm/toll/mill ​ ​ ​ ● ELPAW: Style to gate ● Early 16th century, with repair dated 1870. Substantial bridge over River Tyne. 3 spans of pointed, drop­centred arches, including dry arch on each bank [untrue ­ 2 dry on north bank] [in 1850 map only ​ ​ one dry]. Total span of 131 ft (40.0 m) and 16 ft (4.9 m) width. Squared, regular coursed sandstone, though less regular on E parapet, possibly deriving from later repair. Piers incorporate battered cut­water buttresses. Soffits originally 5­ribbed with chamfered arrises, now complete on central span only. Parapet with dressed gabled coping, adjoins at both ends with random rubble walls with weep holes, this wall being supported by 3 rubble buttresses to NW (see listing for Amisfield Policy Walls). On W elevation only, bracketted corbel projecting slightly below parapet may indicate later road widening. Inscription over S arch (E side) indecipherable. Date of 1870 on W parapet coping indicates repair. ● Abbey Old School ○ Compact group of 3 buildings, probably dating in essence from later 18th century, though parts may be older. All 2­storey, rubble built, evidence of harling. Red pantiled roofs. ● Cistercian Convent or "Abbey" ○ The original Abbey, of which no trace appears now remain (references to which are found up till the Reformation), lay a short distance to the E. It was founded in 1178 as a priory and convent by Ada Countess of Northumberland, mother of Kings Malcolm IV and William. The Scots parliament met here on 7 July 1548 and agreed a treaty with France whereby the young Queen Mary would marry the French Dauphin. The Abbey was Cistercian and seals of 1245 and 1569 are extent ­ "Capituli Sante Marie de Hadintoun". It was probably abandoned around the end of the 16th century, and Daniel Defoe could note "...remains of an old Nunnery, not a stone of which has rested upon another within living memory". There is anecdotal evidence that the deep red stones incorporated irregularly in the structure may derive from the original Abbey. Listed Group A with Abbey Old School and Abbey Mill.

Stevenson House ● c1750 ● ??

Sandy's Mill (DE) ● Mills ○ Every community. C16­19. >20 on Tyne, hundreds in Scotland, 1ks in GB. ○ Mills usually water powered, sometimes by windmill, even the tide ○ Wash, dry, grind cereals: wheat, oats, barley. ■ Wheat: most nutritious ■ Barley: Grown for malting and livestock on land too poor or too cold for wheat. ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ■ Oats: Oatmeal has a long history in Scottish culinary tradition because oats are better suited ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ [10] than wheat to the country's low temperatures and high humidity. ​ As a result oats became ​ ​ ​ the staple grain of Scotland. While oats are suitable for human consumption as oatmeal and ​ ​ rolled oats, one of the most common uses is as livestock feed. ​ ​ ​ ○ Also sawmills, waulk/fulling mills ○ Kiln dry to ensure grinding gives powder not paste ○ Long lades eg after Sandy’s mill, for Beanston mill ○ 1550­1910. Preston mill, commercial till 1959 [24] ○ In Scottish English, oats may be referred to as corn. ​ (as on maps) ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ● Lade round Crow Island 1970 report…. ● Mid­late 18th century. 3­storey meal­mill, roughly rectangular in plan with later single storey threshing mill abutting to W. Random rubble with stugged ashlar dressings. ● Wheel drive unusual; as is the absence of shaking conveyors and bucket elevators. ● Milling ceased by early 1940s, waterwheel pit now silted and the lade diverted to power a generator ● N ELEVATION: entrance at ground floor, with further 1st floor doorway above. Window to 2nd floor. Kiln to right with small opening to centre below eaves. S ELEVATION: noteworthy low breastshot waterwheel to main block, measuring 426cm (outside diameter) by 150cm (width) originally with 30 wooden paddles each 3cm thick. Window at 1st and 2nd floor. Gabled 2­storey single bay and single storey piend­roofed threshing mill butt joined to W. Red pantiles to mill, threshing mill and to steep truncated pyramidal roof of kiln (ventilator missing). INTERIOR: much of machinery survives; waterwheel drove 2 pairs of millstones, one for grinding, the other for shelling. A grain bruiser, pearl barley wheel and gearing also remain. The sack hoist is of interest; could be operated from any floor, has a dog clutch and automatic and manual disengaging device. Kiln floor is 30cm below 2nd floor level of the mill; constructed of cast­iron perforated plates. Single bagging outlet from kiln floor to mill. Access to kiln firebox external; internal route blocked. Beanston Mill ● Beanston Mains, cottages ● Remains: roofed storehouse? Walls a few feet high. Recently stabilised. ● Lade blocked at Sandy’s Mill, but a trickle still from field run­off ● Brick chimney, prob mill converted to steam, powered by wood or coal

Bearford burn ● ??

Monk(s)mill island ● (Monksmuir caravan park)

Collapsed bank ● Closed for months. £10k

Traprain law (Dunpendyrlaw) ​ ● Geology: 300m BC Laccolith, volcanic origin ○ Sill, but thicker magma, doesn’t escape, mushroom shape ○ Cools slowly underground, so harder ● Excavations 1914­23, 39, 47 ○ Rabbits disturb archeology ○ 1500 BC burials, Iron age, ramparts 1000 BC. Occupied 40­430 AD, forts x3 max 40 acres. Votadini ○ 1919 Roman silver hoard, sliced & folded, 53lb +x4 gallic coins. Date 5C. Raid or mercenary payment ○ Stone & timber house remains ● King Loth C6 ​ ○ In legend, Traprain Law was the cliff from which Thenaw, the mother of St Mungo, was thrown when ​ ​ ​ ​ her father, King Lot or Leudonus, discovered she was pregnant by Owain mab Urien. Saved by ​ ​ ​ ​ divine providence, she was transported by boat to Saint Serf's community in Culross, where she ​ ​ ​ ​ gave birth to Kentigern, later also known as Mungo. ​ ​ ○ King Arthur’s brother­in­law. King of the Gododdin ​ ○ Daughter Teneu refused Welsh knight? Oswain. "Scotland's first recorded rape victim, battered ​ ​ ​ woman and unmarried mother" ○ Pregnant so punished, thrown from south cliff. ○ Lived, so cast off in a coracle at Aberlady/took a boat? ○ Brought up by St Serf in Culross. Son Kentigern, nickname Mungo ○ Founder of Glasgow. She became St Enoch, son St Kentigern ○ Mungo's four miracles: ■ Here is the bird that never flew ■ Here is the tree that never grew ■ Here is the bell that never rang ■ Here is the fish that never swam ● Fire 2008? Burned for weeks ● Exmoor ponies replaced sheep Hailes Castle Historic Scotland Trans E Lothian Antiq Fld Natur Soc ​ ​ ​ ​ ● Lord lifestyle. Dinner & leftovers. Travelling. Pit prison ● 1300 fortified manor house.14C, 15C 16C additions ● Ownership: ○ 1200 De gourlays, forfeited after wars of independence to ○ 1300 Hepburns, fortified it. The Hepburns’ castle occasionally had brushes with war and siege, but its greatest claim to fame is its association with James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell. He became Mary Queen of Scots’ third husband in 1567. He may well have been born in the castle. Following his flight into exile after Mary’s capture, Hailes Castle quickly declined. ○ At the end of the 18th century the west tower was complete, and the chapel building was roofed and used as a granary. ○ 1926 State guardianship, now Historic Scotland administered ​ ​ ○ 2008 Lordship and Barony of Hailes is Sam Malin billionaire in oil. Paid £250k? ​ ​ ​ ​ ● HAILES (East lothian). Little hill. Choillen, little hill. C is silent, and has been made s instead of ie ​ ​ ● HAILES (midlothian). Green Plain. Ailean, level green place. H had been prefixed to facilitate ​ ​ pronunciation, and an had been made s instead of ie

Hailes Footbridge ● Plaque found during repairs, attached to stone, re­attached to bridge ● Council funded, Royal Engineers built, when? ● Geocache

Hailes Mill ● Recorded 1565 ● Waulk mill, pummelling soaked fibres into matted cloth to give it strength and increase waterproofing ​ ○ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fulling ● Later (when?) became grain mill ● Discontinued 1st world war ● Photos ● Destroyed in flood 1947 or 1949 ● Kiln, tunnel to feed fire. Millstone top & bottom. Axle mounting. ● Short lade (leat in eng), head/tail race. Sluice gate

Overhailes: neolithic funeral pyre of body parts ● Pencraig Hill, excavated in 2004, is a ceremonial site with architectural elements that are typical of British wide tradition trapezoidal shaped monuments and two or three post timber structures dating from the early to mid 4th millennium BC ● Although initially surprising, wider consideration of earlier mortuary practices witnessed from inhumed remains from chambered cairns suggest that such a manipulation and incorporation of disarticulated human remains at Pencraig Hill is entirely consistent with wider social treatment of human remains. ● In simple words: partially dismembered bodies cremated here, not whole bodies, and which was a widespread practice.

ELVolPaW: ● River bank stabilisation with willow cuttings, infilled. ● Recently cropped & planted by landowner A1 bridge ● 2004

East Linton (pop 2k) ​ ● By pass bridge ● ?? Geology ● Sedimentary Sandstone, Haddington­Mill? ● Igneous Trachytic, Mill­Hailes? ● Igneous Basaltic, Hailes­East Linton History ● ?? Paths ● Land Reform Act ○ The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 (which came into force in 2005) gives everyone rights of access over land and inland water throughout Scotland, subject to specific exclusions set out in the Act and as long as they behave responsibly. These rights are sometimes referred to as 'freedom to roam' ○ Exceptions: gardens, school grounds, fields with growing crops ○ Duty on councils to: uphold rights, produce core path plan, establish Local Access Forum ● Core path plan. >300km. ● First section opened 2012 ● Landowners. Helpful, no compulsory orders Path Warden ● Monitor: damage, litter, overgrown, invasives ● Individual v team tasks ● Strimming/mowing/branches ● Great dane ● Style to gate ● Footbridge repair ● Willow bank protection ● Invasive weed removal Volunteering ● Various groups ● Email ● Website ● Facebook, elpaw, elc ● Katty Baird newsletter TBD ● Signposts have butterfly logo. Significance?

Further Information ● Few­flowered leek [8] It was introduced to the British Isles in 1823 and was first recorded in the wild in 1863 near Edinburgh. ​ It is ​ considered an invasive, non­native species in Europe. In England and Wales, the species is listed on Schedule 9 of ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ [9] the Wildlife and Countryside Act ​ and as such, it is illegal to plant in the wild. The smell of the plant is particularly ​ ​ noticeable to a person who is approaching an area where it is growing. ● Photos http://www.geograph.org.uk/browser/#!/q=NT+(NT57%7CNT5675%7C2015%7C201505%7C20150516%7C% 22Paths%22%7C%22Farm%2C+Fishery%2C+Market+Gardening%22%7C%22Haddington+to+East+Linton+ Path%22%7C%22Island%22%7C%22Core+path%22%7C%22Markle%2FNT5777%22%7C%22East+Lothian %22%7C%22Scotland%22%7Cuser196) ● Milling ○ Maps.NlS.UK. 1852 ○ East Lothian antiquarian and field naturalists society ● Mill or Gristmill ​ ​ ○ Water, wind, tide mills ○ for grinding grain, producing flour for bread, malt for beer, or coarse meal for porridge th ○ By the middle of the 12 ​ century the order rode the cutting edge of hydro­power and agriculture. ​ A typical Cistercian monastery straddled a millrace (artificial stream). This stream ran near the monastery shops, living quarters, and refectories, providing power for milling, wood cutting, forging, and olive crushing. It also provided running water for cooking, washing and bathing, and finally sewage disposal. ○ Thurlage: any tenant in the sucken compelled to use. Landowner provided capital to build. Miller ​ ​ ​ charged tenants multures (pr mooter), often 20th of ground meal ​ ​ ○ Under thirlage the suckeners had to convey new millstones to their thirled mill, sometimes over significant distances. The width of some of the first roads was determined by the requirement to have at least two people on either side of a new grindstone being transported, with a wooden axle called a 'mill­wand' passed through the hole in the centre. ○ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preston_Mill ● Mill Wheels ○ http://www.waterhistory.org/histories/waterwheels/ ○ Used since roman times, for milling (& raising water eg in mines) ○ Undershot 22%, breastshot ?%, overshot 63%, pitchback/reverse 80% efficient. Pics?? ○ Replaced by turbines (1850, high head), and steam engines in Industrial Revolution ○ During the late Middle Ages, the increasing demand for metals drove miners deeper into the earth. Old mining methods were no longer adequate. Miners started using water wheels to pump water from the mines, grind ore, run bellows at the blast furnace, and operate hammers at the metalsmith's forge. ○ Among the other uses of water wheel technology included the fulling of cloth, rice husking, papermaking, and pulping of sugar cane. The usual method of adapting water wheels for such purposes was to extend the axle and fit cams to it. The cams caused trip­hammers to be raised and then released to fall on the material (see illustration 4). Water wheels were also used to ​ ​ pump water (the water wheels on London Bridge). ​ ​ ○ Under thirlage the suckeners had to convey new millstones to their thirled mill, sometimes over significant distances. The width of some of the first roads was determined by the requirement to have at least two people on either side of a new grindstone being transported, with a wooden axle called a 'mill­wand' passed through the hole in the centre. ● Mill Stones (quern­stones) ​ ​ ​ ○ Early leases of mills gave to the miller the legal right to break quern­stones which were being used in defiance of thirlage agreements. ​ ​ ○ Quern­stones are stone tools for hand­grinding a wide variety of materials. They are used in ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ pairs.The lower, stationary, stone is called a quern, while the upper mobile stone is called a ​ ​ handstone. They were first used in the Neolithic to grind cereals into flour. ​ ​ ​ ○ Millstones come in pairs. The base or bedstone is stationary. Above the bedstone is the turning ​ ​ runner stone which actually does the grinding. The runner stone spins above the stationary ​ bedstone creating the "scissoring" or grinding action of the stones. A runner stone is generally slightly concave, while the bedstone is slightly convex. This helps to channel the ground flour to the ​ ​ ​ ​ outer edges of the stones where it can be gathered up. ○ Spin at 125 rpm ○ Quarrendon: village in Bucks from 'Cwoern Dun' ­ or quern (millstone) + low, flat hill ​