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www.theolivepress.es the Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 21 All 2121 about uadalhorce alley June 26 - July 9 2014

G Issue 214 www.theolivepress.es V May 28th - June 10th 2015 Different worlds Plunged into the Guadalhorce Valley, Rob Horgan discovers a secret world of lakes, white villages and rocky mountain highs hiding in the hills behind the

NEES knocking, hands scrabbling for something to grip on the crumbling rock face, at last I found a Kfoothold on the sheer-sided cliff and breathed a sigh of relief. Precariously perched 10 metres above one of ’ shimmer- ing turquoise lakes, I snuck a quick look at the dizzying moun- tain backdrop before letting go, plunging from my rocky eyrie to pierce the smooth glass surface of the water below. I emerged from the crystal clear water (shaking my curly locks, Baywatch-style) I was greeted by congratulatory cheers from onlookers awaiting their turn above me. It’s fair to say that my fi rst expe- rience of the Guadalhorce Valley took my breath away! Reached from on the road, via the white-washed pueblos of Ojen, Guaro and Mon- da with its impressive hilltop cas- tle, it’s hard to believe that this BREATH-TAKING: View across the valley stunning valley is just 45 minutes near and (inset) procession of the Virgin of Rondeles in Turn to Page 22 PICTURE BY ROB HORGAN 2222 the Olive Pressll about May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015

From Page 21

from the hustle and bustle of the Costa del Sol. Once a best-kept secret, this summer thousands of new visitors will discover this little- Andalucia’s known natural beauty spot on a mission to take the El Chorro Challenge. The Caminito del Rey is already a big hit with thrill seekers. Dubbed the ‘world’s deadliest walkway’ until its re-opening lake district this Spring after a €2.8 million restoration, this high-adrenalin hike runs above the El Chorro gorge, an immense fi ssure fi ve kilometres long and 300 me- tres deep, running between two towering limestone cliffs. El Chorro and Ardales, at the Andalucia’s own other end of the Caminito, are often called Andalucia’s Lake District and it’s easy to see why. ‘bread basket These two postage stamp-sized villages are linked by hairpin THE Guadalhorce Valley is 804km2 in size, and home to bend roads to three stunning, around 150,000 permanent residents, while many more own turquoise reservoirs bordered second homes there. by sandy beaches and shaded It has always been known for its citrus production, with or- by feathery conifers. The scen- ange and lemon plantations stretching out in every direction ery is more akin to the country- CRYSTAL CLEAR: Lake in Ardales, near El Chorro from the valley’s towns. side of Cumbria or the cantons Of the eight , Coin is the biggest. But towns such of than anything A more ‘typically Spanish’ has never looked back. multitude of winding cobbled as Alhaurin el grande, Alora and Cartama are also immensely people imagine could be found lifestyle perhaps, something “Why would I ever go back?” streets, stacked either side popular with expats. on the Costa del Sol. that’s also noticeable in the re- he protests. “I love it here, the with white-washed houses. While fi rst colonised by the Romans, it was the who With lakeside camping sites, gion’s bigger town’s – Coin, Al- scenery is incredible, the peo- Named by the Romans, turned have had the largest infl uence on the area. it’s the quintessential active haurin el Grande and Alhaurin ple are lovely and the way of life into a market town shortly af- Everywhere there is evidence of their work, which tamed the weekend break for outdoor de la Torre. is so much easier-paced than it ter and then abandoned for tumbling streams into irrigation systems and brought fertility sports types, offering rock As English expat Ray Finch ex- was back in London.” almost 500 years, the Moors to the whole of the valley. climbing, watersports, pedalos plains: “The Costa del Sol is Coin, the region’s ‘capital’ rebuilt most of Coin in 950 AD. But while the region has been termed one of the bread-bas- and dining under the stars at great for people who love the and largest town, is merely Marble and iron ore quarried kets of Andalucia since Roman times, the locals have long charming pine-shaded ventas. beach and like to party, but up an up-scale version of its from its hills into the 19th struggled with fl uctuating rainfall, which can still bring dev- The polar opposite to the glitz here in the hills, we get to expe- smaller neighbours (, century were used in the con- astating fl oods to the whole of the valley or leave the land and glamour of the nearby rience the real .” and Alozaina) with struction of the Roman town of parched for months on end. coast, the valley offers a more Ray moved from London to two main squares, an emblem- Italica, near Sevilla, birthplace peaceful, relaxed way of life... Coin fi ve years ago to retire and atic church at its centre and a of the future Emperor, Hadrian.

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FROM BOYS TO MEN

EVERY boy wants to grow up to be a sol- dier and in Alhaurin el Grande it is no differ- ent. Here, a group of teenagers practise moves with their rifl es Reconquered by the Christians in the hope after a siege in which the leg- of one day endary Christopher Columbus following took part, it also had a special place in the heart of another in the foot- great explorer, Captain Cook. HISTORIC: Arab tower in Alora steps of After a visit to Coin, Cartama the Foreign and Alhaurin in 1829 he wrote: “These villages are on rising ga province, El Castillo is believed – the crowning glory in most Legion that ground above the river and in to have been built by the Arabs of these pueblos - can be seen marches beauty of situation and cultiva- and used as a watchtower during against the skyline from the through its tion cannot be excelled. wars. Today this important heri- narrow streets below. From streets at “They afford a specimen of the tage site has been refurbished to the striking Santa Ana church whole country when possessed function as an information centre itself, there are spectacular Easter time. by the Moors, being surround- for the . views towards the Sierra Prieta. ed by gardens with orange, “Yunquera really is beautiful,” I saved the best gem for last lemon and palm trees and enthuses local artist Miguel Mer- on my weekend in the Guadal- abounding in all the fi ne as well chan. horce Valley – Alora, half an as the more common fruits.” “I often go down to the bot- hour up the road. Even today, the Guadalhorce tom of the town and look up Helping myself to the oranges is considered to be among the at the white houses with the and lemons dangling invit- most fertile valleys in all Spain. church spire sticking up in to ingly from the trees in the high Crisscrossed with streams, as the air. It makes me proud to street, I headed through bus- well as modern be from such tling streets packed with Mo- and ancient ace- an inspiring roccan and Roman infl uences quias (man-made Alozaina is place.” to the castle, which sits on a water channels), After a life- lofty pinnacle looking down on it is home both to embedded like a time dedi- this quaint pueblo. wild nature and jewel in a setting cated to , A stop at the 17th century La En- modern cultiva- Merchan now carnacion church en route is the tion, while signs of olive groves runs a small perfect prelude to the main event of its fecundity museum in atop Cerro de las Torres hill. continue into the memory of The castle has had a long and villages where you can pick or- his mentor, legendary local chequered history. Originally anges and lemons from ‘urban artist and musician Francisco built by Phoenicians, before orchards’ of trees lining the Sola. being expanded under Roman streets! Set in Sola’s home, Merchan rule, it was destroyed by the To the west of the valley, ver- has recreated the artist’s study Visigoths and rebuilt by the dant Sierra de las Nieves Natu- and turned the upper fl oors Moors. ral Park has seen even less hu- into a gallery showcasing some Looking down one last time on man interference. of his best works - many of this lush green valley, as the Apart from the few towns and vil- them self- and studies inhabitants of all these past lages on its outskirts, the park is of his family. civilisations must have done largely uninhabited, with a rich Just 15 minutes from Yun- too, I felt a pang of regret to be variety of pine, fi r, ash, chestnut quera, Alozaina is embedded leaving. and oak trees, and countless like a jewel in a setting of olive But then I remembered the streams and waterfalls. groves. best thing about the Guadal- A National Hunting Reserve The entrance to the village’s horce. It’s so close to the coast teeming with mountain goats charming centre is marked by it’s almost my back yard and I’ll and moufl on , rambling, stone arches while the church be back there soon! horse riding and river kayaking are all great ways to explore its undiscovered beauty. The park is easily accessible from the picturesque villages of Tolox and Yunquera, which pos- sess a charm all of their own. Tolox is a tumble of white- washed houses where the vil- lagers have even gone so far as painting the tree trunks white, to reinforce the pueblo blanco look. Yunquera is slightly bigger, with one of the most picturesque church spires in the Guadal- horce Valley although its em- blem is the ancient castle tow- ering 500 metres above the village. One of the highest points in Mala- EMBLEM: Church tower in Yunquera 242424 ll about A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015 The big brother of the Guadalhorce Valley, Coin has kept hold of the charm that sweeps through the pueblos blancos across the region Capital T may be the ‘capital’ of the Gua- Much of this is thanks to the dalhorce Valley but the town of Moors, whose clever use of Coin has managed to retain the water and love of gardens and charm of its smaller neighbours. planting, left the surround- ILiterally surrounded by citrus ing countryside full of profi t- plantations, with a true rural com- able businesses, who sold to munity, it is no surprise to fi nd an the coast and, indeed, further orange tree on the town’s coat of gains afi eld. arms. Thankfully when the Arabic Despite growing considerably invaders were ejected from avocados and pomegranates, life of a village and a very laid over recent years, Coin still the town in 1485, after a long in particular. back feel. Best of all, it has a has a curious sense of being siege, the town’s Christian This agricultural legacy was lovely average annual tempera- both bustling and rural in equal Crusaders from the north, who clearly noted by British explorer ture of 15 degrees. measures. may have included Christopher Captain Cook when he visited It was the Romans who gave You still regularly see tractors Columbus, didn’t alter much. the town, along with the town its fi rst name ‘Lacibis’, and quad-bikes buzzing about The legacy of using acequias and Alhaurín in 1829. Travel- it became an important market its narrow streets and there to water the fi elds is still used ling with the Royal Navy, he was town and transition point for are plenty of businesses dedi- today and the countryside is mightily impressed. the minerals being quarried in cated to agricultural pursuits among the wealthiest in An- “These villages are on rising the nearby Sierra Blanca. and farming tools. dalucia growing citrus fruits, ground above the river and in Marble from these quarries was beauty of situation and cultiva- used in the construction of the tion cannot be excelled,” he Roman town of Italica, or Ro- wrote. “They afford a specimen man Seville, and the mining of of the whole country when pos- iron ore and marble continued sessed by the Moors, being into the 19th century. surrounded by gardens with or- During the time of the Visigoths, ange, lemon and palm trees and like many places in Andalu- abounding in all the fi ne as well cia, the town lost its lustre and as the more common fruits.” largely fell into ruin until the Over 4,000 foreigners are said Moors conquered the region to live in the mountain town and rebuilt it around 929 AD. of around 20,000 people. The The town has grown rapidly majority British - but increas- over the last two decades and BEAUTY: Captain Cook admired Coin and the surroun- ingly with a large number of even counts its own shopping Dutch and Germans - they en- centre La Trocha, with a cin- ding plantations joy the more relaxed country ema and branches of Dunnes town living, while still having ex- and Corte Ingles. the coast... and, best of all, Andalucia, with people some- cellent connections for the air- It is a popular shopping trip here you will fi nd a big Sun- times queueing up all night to port and nearby Costa del Sol. for expats who come from all day market, which on its day get a stall, it being so oversub- WRITING ON THE WALL: A fruit cooperative mural A big town, it has the quality of around the region, and even is one of the best attended in scribed. 25 ll about 25 A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015 Jon Clarke visits a brand new retreat in a hidden valley 20 minutes from the coast, where multi-talented owner Martina Willis is weaving her magic on many different levels My recipe for Wellbeing CHOING to the sounds of running water, based on the banks of the bubbling Alamino stream, croaking frogs and nightingales, it was is a genuine oasis of near-tropical vegetation. hard to believe that I was just 10 miles Well-appointed with spacious rooms, outdoor ja- SERENE: One of the two stunning freshwater pools at the Source of and 20 minutes from the fl eshpots of cuzzis and hectares of grounds, it is a wonderful Wellbeing and (below) boss Martina EFuengirola and Marbella. place to hole up for a few days, and a great base Following an intensive massage, and with a to explore the nearby Guadalhorce Valley. Out went the private plane and yacht and in physical and emotional abuse healthy chickpea tortilla salad and a bottle of Also expect to be spoilt by Martina and her came a focus towards self-development and a I endured in my life from an gewurztraminer awaiting me on my dining ter- team, which includes a great range of mas- drive for health and happiness. early age and the obstacles I race, things rarely get much better. seurs, chefs and therapists. She moved into life coaching, got a diploma in have had to overcome in my pri- I had been invited to check out the hottest new Based at the heart of one of the true secrets of MindTraining and has started to help focus and vate and business life to be wellbeing retreat to open on the Costa del Sol; the Costa del Sol - the Barranco Blanco - there train senior executives and corporate teams successful. a place where smiles are guaranteed. is only one way in and one way out… a dirt around Europe. “It has been a hard drive Set up by a talented Austrian, whose CV would track, with one very small sign. “I have now made it my life goal to equip people to become happy and put many a CEO’s to shame, The Source of But, once located, you drop down into a stun- to become the driving force to change organisa- I have had to break Wellbeing is set to become one of the must- ning valley which counts less than a dozen tions,” she explains. through detrimental visit hideaways this year. properties and one of the loveliest streams and “Let’s face it, the economy needs to adopt a and addictive behav- Also running as a luxury B&B, this amazing spot, waterfalls in Andalucia. new business model, away from profi t and to- iour patterns to be- The Source of Wellbeing is the brainchild of wards customer and employee satisfaction. come the assertive Swiss-educated Martina Willis, a woman still “In short: a happy successful employee will and strong person in her 30s who counts working for Larry Ellison generate a happy customer.” I am today. and Bill Gates on her CV. Her new Wellbeing project encourages execu- “Ultimately, I love After studying mechanical engineering and mar- tives and business owners to learn from her, as to help people face the keting, she worked for 19 years in the IT sector, well as offering hard-working women, or those fear they have in their lives in particular with Oracle in Europe and Micro- who have lost their identity, the chance to es- and help them achieve their soft in Seattle, where she became the youngest cape and enjoy a well-earned pampering break. goals without the need for product manager in the company’s history. “When people look at me, they see this petite approval of others.” But, after the inevitable burn-out, working blonde who’s had a lot of luck to be successful sometimes 120-hour weeks with her own com- in business and seems to have it all,” she says. pany, based in the UK, Saudi Arabia and Swe- “What they don’t see is the incredible hard- Visit www.thesourceof- HISTORIC: The ancient retreat den, she decided to look for a career change. ship I have had to overcome along the way. The wellbeing.com

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Finca La Fuente – Barranco Blanco Coin, CP 29199, Malaga tel: +34 951 204 306 / +34 669 514 733 [email protected] Cut off from the rest of the world, I can feel a deep connection to nature. Facebook.com/thesourceofwellbeing Time slows down and all becomes extraordinarily bright and beautiful. 2626 the Olivell Press about May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015

Secret valley with links to the Nazis The beautiful, hidden valley of Barranco Blanco has a shady past, writes Tom Powell IKE an illustration from a fai- This beautiful spot was allegedly used as seems to spring back to a for- rytale, the Barranco Blanco will a Nazi training camp during the Second mer SS offi cer who bought a enchant you - once you fi nd it. World War, due to Hitler and Franco’s lot of land here and eventu- But the search is more than friendship. ally fl ed to South America.” Lworth it, for this serene spot (which The Olive Press previously investigated It is diffi cult to picture this means White Ravine in Spanish) is set the area’s Nazi history in 2010. wonderful valley as a cradle in stunning woodland teeming with The remnants of their occupation are of evil, but it seems that even wildlife - including wild boars - and its not obvious at fi rst sight, as nature has the Nazis were unable to re- river ends in a magical waterfall. done its best to erase Hitler’s impact, sist Barranco Blanco’s endur- Located in the foothills of the Sierra but they are still there. ing charm. Alpujata between Coin and Alhaurin Driving in from the main road, past the el Grande, it cannot be seen from the water tower, the small white building surrounding roads. on the left was originally a sentry point. These days it’s a photographer’s para- Around the waterfall there are more dise and a hotspot for horseriding, houses, now in disrepair, which were mountain biking, walking and river formerly part of the Nazi military com- swimming. But, just like the stories by plex and home to SS soldiers. MYSTERY: Secret waterfall and the Grimms brothers and Hans Ander- “There is certainly some truth to the (inset) our investigation in 2010 son, it has a darker side, too. links,” says one Austrian resident. “It Castle of light

RETRO: TV fl op Eldorado Monumental failure IT has been well over a decade since Eldora- do vanished from TV screens and bid viewers “adios’’ for good. Dubbed the ‘biggest fl op in BBC’s history’, Eldorado was fi lmed at a prefab village set in the hills above Coin and on location around the Alhaurin area. While there remain various rumours of its ARTAMA castle at night is a with its train station. 2007. return, it still remains one of the costli- magical juxtaposition of ancient A rocky path zig-zags up from the main Inside you can still see the ornate ceil- est failures in the BBC’s annals, costing and modern. square to the castle, meandering be- ing with its crystal chandelier, the elab- £87,000 per episode to shoot. The crumbling hilltop remains neath shady pine trees, with benches orate decoration contrasting with the Ham-strung with problems from the start, Care bathed in fl oodlights at night, re- placed at intervals for much-needed spartan wooden benches that seat the the show suffered from poor , bad cently installed by the Town Hall. breathers. congregation. storylines and cringe-worthy performances Even in daylight, no other vantage point At the top stands a pretty shrine to Above the shrine are the remains of by amateurs, many of whom didn’t even in the vicinity offers such far-reaching the town’s patron saint - the Ermita de the 10th century Moorish castle. The know what a read-through was. views of the Guadalhorce Valley. Nuestra Senora de los Remedios. crumbling walls are all that’s left of Indeed, the only thing producers had no Cartama spreads out below, at the Built in the 17th century on top of the the impenetrable fortress that origi- shortage of was endless sunshine for head of the Guadalhorce river, where a original 15th century building, the nally boasted ten watchtowers, but the fi lming. restored iron bridge connects the town sanctuary was restored as recently as views are still to die for. The set still stands today, a sad and some- what tacky monument to the BBC’s failure to bring the expat lifestyle in Spain to life on the small screen. www.theolivepress.es27 ll about the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 2727 A G May 28th - June 10th 2015 Cliff hanger Thousands of visitors are fl ocking to take the El Chorro Challenge along the ‘world’s most dangerous walkway’

HE ‘world’s most dangerous walkway’ is a sell-out success and on track to become one of Andalucia’s top tourist attractions. TNot one for the faint-hearted, the jaw- dropping Caminito del Rey (King’s Pathway) dents, winding above El Chorro’s 200-metre-deep it be- gorge, grabbed world media attention when came a it reopened on March 28, after a €2.8 million rite of pas- renovation. sage for adrena- Free tickets for the fi rst six months sold out line junkies, and com- panies in a matter of minutes, with tourists keen to began offering unoffi cial tours of the dilapi- ‘walk the planks’ this summer, while King Fe- dated walkway after a video of it went viral lipe is due to pay a royal visit later this year. on YouTube. Restored from a crumbling ruin which saw Today punters will only have to part with €3 thrill-seekers taking their lives into their for a much safer experience - a price worth PICTURE S (RECENT) BY TOM POWELL hands to tick it off their bucket list, the cliff- paying for the spectacular views alone. DON’T LOOK DOWN: The restored bridge spans the gorge while previously hugging 1.2km walkway runs from El Chorro The Junta and Malaga city council split the daredevils had to navigate a broken path with many unstable gaps to Ardales above the Guadalhorce reservoirs. restoration cost and commissioned the Closed in 2001 after a series of fatal acci- works in 2011.

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Alhaurin has been a market town for centuries but Homecoming queen really blossomed under Moorish rule Spain’s greatest expat writer Gerald Brenan made the Guadalhorce Valley his home and now, thanks to an Olive Press campaign, his house the Queen of Los Angeles has been restored to its former glory The NEW chapter in the life known about Andalucia, a re- story of the late British gion of backwater villages and author Gerald Brenan is mule tracks. currently being penned. Brenan, widely hailed as the AIt also marks a victorious new greatest expat writer to have reign for the Queen of Los An- lived in Spain, was drawn by geles, Brenan’s beloved Chur- the quiet charisma of Churri- riana villa where the world- ana when he made his home Garden famous Hispanist wrote many at Number 56, Calle Torremo- www.theolivepress.es of his books. linos. *FREE* Under fi re Eight years ago, the property at Although run-down, Brenan the olive press Was new blaze started deliberately in a bid Andalucía’s Fortnightly News Publi to get planning permission? the bottom of the Guadalhorce was captivated by the villa’s NEVER FORGOTTEN: : cation **Western Edition** Issue 17, September 7 see p3 The People’s Republic of OLIVE PRESS SCORES A HATRICK! FUN! - Not one, not two, but THREE top th 2007 Valley was in ruins, having neo-classical style, with its Brenan at Alhaurin home authors write for us. This week Giles Tremlett and Jason Webster. So what if page 14 Next issue, Chris Stewart GERALD been abandoned, looted, cov- soaring tower, romantic cob- and (inset) our front page BRENAN lived here ered with graffi ti and left to rot. bled courtyard and fountain campaign 1934-1969? Blue plaque for It looked like the writing was where pigeons splashed and destruction Trembling with neglect, of Allah on the wall for Brenan’s mem- is Brenan´s historic cooed. But two years later, as the home about to be converted into fl ats? STOLEN: House has been ransacked for treasu including recently this priceless virgin ory, too, until the Olive Press Bought for a mere £1,200 from couple were fi nishing its trans- Dressed to kill res, HURRAH! It’s feria time again for Ronda’s well dressed stepped in and started a cam- Goyescas. The 12 chosen girlsDamas will a member of Malaga’s wealthy formation into a comfortable be performing a number DERELICT and decaying with its f duties during fi of civic of rubbish strewn in its garden, this is the sorry esta week. And to ront door bricked up and piles cap it all, get to watch the fa home of one of Spain´s most famou Goyesca bullfi Tiles falling off the roof and windows kicked in, the ho ght on Saturday,mous s British writers. state of the former totally free, arriving by horse and become a museum and tribute to the lif carriage with the paign to save the historic site books South from merchant class, Don Carlos toreros home, Civil War broke out. use was to most oversubscribed bullfi. Spain’s come huge bestsellersGranada both here and and the around Spanishe of Geraldth Labyrinth Brenan, have whose be- this year rumoured to expect ght isa Visited by Ernest Hemingway a visit from one Nicholas Sarkozy, famous writers, under an electionnd promise Bertand by Russell, Male world. among many the PM of France. You read it Torre in 1998 it was be renovated here fi rst. We doubt though, he’ll with an an 11th-hour restora- Crooke Larios, it was the ideal back to its formeraga glory. mayor de la be paying the curre Desperate for a place to nt street price, said to be over 900 for a Continued on page 9 good seat in the shade. Construcciones tion that was completed last love nest for Brenan and his TheThe lie low, the compassionate VÁZQUEZ Village Stores Village Stores 1Call Best value builders EnglishEnglish GrocGro Property Reforms SL cerieseries in the Sierra  All types of constructi AvenidaAvenida Andalucia,Andalucia, 6,6, Estepa renovations on, October. 955944262 Estepa , plumbing, Longest establishedBar new wife, American poet Gamel 955944262 Brenan took in previous owner electrics & carpentry C/CarC/Carretera,retera, 43,43, MollinaMollina from to Olvera British bar in 95274952740314 0314 Call for a quote All types of food and tapas

NEWNEW INTERNETINTERN CAFE Morente Call us for a quote ET CAFE Live Premiership football ININ ESTEPAESTEPA When ‘Don Geraldo’ fi rst set up Woolsey, to begin their lives to- Open from 10am till late Don Carlos, formerly a Franco 650795416 3 minutes free 30 minutes fr Closed Thursday withwith thisthis adad ee 628 578 544 [email protected]@hotma Calle Carretera, 44, Mollina his typewriter here, little was gether. supporter, although it put the il.com Telephone 627135939 lives of his household in jeop- ardy. MEMORIES: At Eventually, Brenan organised Casa Brenan returned to the dream home. a pass for him on a British de- Ernest Hemingway and Ber- stroyer to get him out of the trand Russell spent holidays country. But the damage to there, drawn by the glamorous the Brenans’ reputation was dinner parties, endless drinks already done. and late nights Hounded out spent setting of the village People will come the world to for suspected here to see this rights. right-wing sym- It makes it even pathies, the centre and bring more astonish- author and his ing that this wife had no the life back to vital link to An- choice but to the town dalucia’s liter- return to Eng- ary past was so land. casually cast It was here in 1943 that Bre- aside. nan wrote his fi rst Spanish At the packed inauguration, in masterpiece, The Spanish Lab- October 2014, Silvia Grijalba, yrinth, a socio-political account coordinator for Casa Gerald of the run-up to the Civil War. Brenan and journalist for El External forces kept the couple Mundo, said: “The restoration away from Spain for more than of this house owes the Olive a decade but in 1949 they were Press so much. I am very grate- ful. People from Malaga will come here to see this centre and bring the life back to the town.” Passing from owner to owner after Brenan left Churriana for nearby Alhaurin el Grande at the beginning of the 1970s, vandalism and neglect took their toll on its noble façade. It was at this point, in Septem- ber 2007, that the Olive Press fi rst saw the sad ruin that the 200-year-old villa had become. Shocked by the extent of the damage – including the theft of a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary from the side gate – this newspaper launched a cam- paign to save the house from its sorry fate. National newspapers took up the call and, fi nally, the town hall realised that this historic national treasure was at risk of being lost forever. Driven by the energetic force of Brenan’s stepson, Carlos, the restoration began. “This house is a piece of histo- ry, and it is a real shame it was left in that state for so long,” he said at last October’s tri- umphant reopening ceremony. “But now we can rebuild that spirit and work on returning it to its place at the centre of the community.” www.theolivepress.es2929 2929 the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 2929 May 28th - June 10th 2015

Alhaurin has been a market town for centuries but T was in Phoenician times that Alhaurin el Grande fi rst developed its really blossomed under Moorish rule role as an important market town, as the already established Iberian tribes bartered their goods with new arrivals from Lebanon. Later the town thrived under Roman occupation when a number of Iwealthy merchants from nearby Malaga made from the rich min- eral deposits in the nearby hills. They built sizeable villas, such as Villa de la Mata, and labelled the town Lauro Nova. Evidence has been found in the numbers of , statues and pillars, a trio of which stand pride of place opposite the town hall today. But it wasn’t until Moorish rule that the town really blossomed, as the Arabs planted new crops in the wide fertile valley that is crossed by two The rivers, the Fahala and Blas Gonzales. They introduced acequias (or water courses) to irrigate the entire valley and built a number of important mills, such as the Molino de los Corchos. An area of particular beauty – not to mention an extremely clement cli- mate – it had soon taken on an appropriate new name, that of ‘Garden of Allah’, or Alhaurin. Remnants of the eight centuries of Arabic rule can still be found, particu- Garden larly at the Arco del Cobertizo, which was a gateway to the medina, that had a souk specialising in silk. One of the last towns to be conquered by the Catholic kings in 1485, it was eventually merged with Alora, Cartama and Coin in 1666 to form a single entity known as the Four Towns. Though it was anything but plain sailing for the united and there were epidemics of plague and even an earthquake in 1680. Later, Alhaurin was occupied for four years by the French during the Penin- sular War in the early 19th century, which led to the inevitable destruction of Allah and upheaval. Since then, apart from the turbulent period during the civil war, the big- gest threat to civil peace was an infl ux of English hooligans in the 1990s and early 2000s, who thankfully have now all but gone. There is no doubt that Alhaurin el Grande has been through a dramatic transformation over recent years but there is a now a real swagger about the place. Businesses are opening and the type of expat now coming to live here is more interested in integration, learning the language and enjoying the town’s varied culture.

Famous for decades

ALHAURIN has been a popular hideout for ce- lebrities and writers for a century. It was celebrated his- panist Gerald Brenan, LUSH: Alhaurin has been a key market town for centuries who fi rst settled in the town in the 1960s, living there for two decades. Brenan, famous for his evocative South from and benchmark Tall story civil war tome The Span- ish Labyrinth, described IS it a castle? Is it a folly? Or a piece of redun- the town as his ‘Garden dant scenery from a movie set? of Eden’, before moving The origin of the brick tower standing tall on just down the road a lit- the hillside above Alhaurin el Grande, has been tle to Churriana, nearer the subject of heated debate, splitting opinion Malaga. across the Guadalhorce Valley and beyond. Other more recent celeb- Many thought it was a Medieval castle, ru- rities to enjoy the area mours did the rounds that the Moors built it include Status Quo’s and there were even whispers that it was a glo- Rick Parfi tt (above), who rifi ed tourist information centre. lives with his wife and Some people even remember it from the open- kids near the town, while ing credits to the ill-fated BBC soap opera, El- Claire King from Emmer- dorado. dale is a regular visitor, Now the Olive Press can settle the score once as is singer Neneh Cher- and for all by defi nitively revealing the true ry, who has been a few identity of the castle in the sky overlooking Al- times on holiday. haurin. It has even been said It was built as a water tower, cunningly dis- that Coronation Street’s guised as an ancient castle to fi t in with the re- Bet Lynch has a place gion’s surroundings. in the area, having been Although it turns out it was a bit of a folly after spotted shopping in all - constructed to provide irrigation water for Mercadona a couple of a golf course that never happened. times. However, it is still something of an icon in And let’s not forget con- these parts, visited by those who recall it from troversial boxer Scott Eldorado and others who are hoodwinked into Harrison who has a thinking they are visiting a historic monument. CASTLE IN THE SKY: In Alhaurin house here. 3030 the Olivell Press about May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es3 A G May 28th - June 10th 2015 Valley in demand With Brits fl ocking to Andalucia in their droves, estate agents are running out of properties to sell as townhouses and dream fi ncas are snapped up in the Guadalhorce Valley, writes Rob Horgan

ROM dream fi ncas in the hills to town houses in quaint pueblos blan- cos, property has got Fhot, hot, hot in the Guadal- horce Valley. It would appear that the An- dalucian property boom start- ed in Marbella is not restrict- ed to the Costa del Sol and has moved its way inland. And as the buyers fl ock in - predominant- ly British - the estate agents have been left chasing their RELAXED: Locals in Coin mix with expats, enjpying the relaxed laid-back lifestyle in the Guadalhorce Valley tails to keep up with de- We have sold so many prop- “Last year was a much bet- market has been boosted by Dutch and Belgian buyers mand. erties already this year that ter year for an infl ux in Brit- looking to buy into the life on “We have we have been left scrambling us, and that ish buyers piling offer in the Valley,” explains seen the best around to fi nd sellers. has rolled on It is a great place in their pounds Margaret who has been start to a year “Don’t get me wrong, it is a to the start to integrate across the Gua- based in Alora since 1998. that I can re- nice problem to have.” of this year,” dalhorce Valley. “But since then the British member,” ex- Jo came to the Guadalhorce she says. yourself with the This is a trend have been coming back and plains estate Valley in 2003 where she set “We are even Spanish way of fellow estate I expect that to continue agent Jo Wood up her business with her hus- seeing town- agent Margaret as long as the pound stays of Grapevine band Graham. houses be- life Mitchell from strong. properties. And after a few quiet years ing snapped Alora Properties “All sorts of properties are “It is ridicu- during the recession, she ex- up, which was previously un- has also seen. selling now, be it in small vil- lously busy at plains how things have been heard of.” “During the crisis years from lages, larger towns or a lone the moment. moving in the right direction. Jo explains that the property 2008 to 2013 it was mainly fi nca in the countryside.” AGENTS: The Woods at Grapevine Fellow agent Julia Pronegg, (above) and the team at Aris Inmobilaria who has run Aris Inmobilaria in Alhaurin de la Torre for 25 years, is equally optimistic Man of property about the market. BUILDING a rural retreat Obsession to escape to at weekends She believes the recent ‘ob- opened up a new business session’ with Malaga in the opportunity for property world’s press is driving the professional Richard Wood- property market in the valley. land. “The market is defi nitely pick- After moving to Spain al- ing up,” she says. “The attrac- most 15 years ago, he ini- tion of Alhaurin and the Gua- tially worked for H2O Coun- dalhorce Valley as a whole is trywide as an IT manager the feeling of being in a typi- before setting up the Prop- cally Spanish place. erty Overseas Group, which She adds: “It is a great place concentrated on property to integrate yourself with the sales along the coast. Spanish way of life, and being “Having spent several years so close to Malaga and the living in Marbella I was then Costa del Sol, home comforts attracted to the inland life- are not too far away for Brits style and energy so I bought IN THE KNOW: Richard looking to move here. some land and constructed “The fact that Malaga is be- my own fi nca in Coin,” ex- gardeners and builders, ing dubbed the new Barce- plains Richard. such as Gardens, to DREAM PAD: For sale in Alozaina for €2,995,000 with Grapevine lona also helps a great deal.” “Initially this was intended provide a complete prop- as a weekend retreat, but erty service in the area. it wasn’t long before I’d Situated opposite La Tro- moved in permanently and cha commercial centre in then started my next build- Coin, Property Overseas ing project in ”. Group deals with sales He soon gained experience and rentals in the town & of the country property its neighbouring villages of market and, alongside his Monda, Guaro, Tolox & Al- coastal operation, he now haurin el Grande. has a thriving inland offi ce Contact Richard on 952 in Coin. 814 780 or visit www. Richard works closely with propertyoverseasgroup. local architects, lawyers, com

STYLISH: For sale in Alhaurin de la Torre with for STUNNING: For sale in Alora for €630,000 with €349,000 with Aris Inmobilaria Alora properties 31www.theolivepress.esll about the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 31 A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015

WHITEWASHED: Alora is a beautiful set atop a hill with panoramic views while (inset) its Moorish castle Alluring Alora The key market town at the heart of the Guadalhorce Valley is beginning to unveil LORA is much more immaculately preserved castle. than another white- I was lucky enough to receive a its fascinating historical importance, writes Tom Powell washed, sleepy Andalu- tour of the castle, built in 1462, cian pueblo. from local history expert and Adjoining the church is the mu- olive oil was traditionally pro- years ago, where the houses people lost all of their posses- ADespite keeping its fascinating museum worker, Maria Jose. nicipal museum, complete with duced but it is now used for the were struck by a terrible fl ood, sions and were left homeless history to itself with unwarrant- “You can see evidence of all ancient pottery, historical dis- occasional concert. killing livestock and destroying for 18 months,” he said. ed modesty, this town has blos- the different ages of the castle, plays and intense mustiness. Various small museums and homes. “I gave my trainers to a somed into a hive of cultural it is so interesting and such It is a Mudejar construction bars have sprung up in the From the castle it is easy to man who lives just across the activity. a shame that so few people dating from the 16th century centre since the turn of the see where the river river from us, and he’s still Marked out by its stunning Ara- come and see it,” she said. and supported by stone pillars century, as this town continues ripped apart a wearing them now!” bic castle atop Cerro de las Tor- It is a wonderful and columns. its legacy as one of the most bridge, separating But the area has res hill, the sprawling streets place to visit, but “Alora is such important settlements in the Barriada Estacion recovered and risen are brought to life through Mo- unfortunately the The castle, lit a wonderful Guadalhorce Valley. from neighbouring again, with hourly roccan and Roman infl uences castle is not of- town, there It is certainly a fairly bustling Barriada del Pu- trains bringing visi- before them. ten open to the up like a halo, is is so much place, much busier than I had ente. tors up to the town However, the castle is even public. utterly alluring at culture to see imagined. David McGovern, from Malaga. older and was originally built by A short walk in the artists, One of the highlights was the owner of Manhat- And those who Phoenicians, before being ex- down narrow tra- night history and small bodega belonging to José tan bar opposite travel when the sun panded under Roman rule. And ditional streets of course, the Miguel Pérez Hidalgo, which Alora train sta- goes down continue later destroyed by Visigoths leads to the best food in produces a range of wines tion, recalls the to be treated to in the fi fth century before the town’s lowest-lying square. the region is here,” explains lo- from the Guadalhorce Valley’s water fl ooding all one of Alora’s most Moors fi nally came and rebuilt Here stands the impressive cal tour operator Kora Buggel, vineyards, and offers tasting of the surround- stunning sites. The it. 17th century Catholic church of who is hoping to organise tours sessions to organised groups. ing buildings, castle, lit up like a The Muslim minaret is still La Encarnacion, which some- of the castle and village. At the foot of the hill on which reaching metres halo, is utterly allur- clearly visible today, protruding how appears to be even larger Hidden right in the heart of the Alora rests is railway station, high. ing at night… A sight defi antly from the elegant and on the inside. town is an old molino, where and it was here, just three “It was awful, not to be missed. 3232 the Olivell Press about May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es3 A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015 Andalucia’s poshest pet hotel has installed an incredible sensory garden, discovers Jon Clarke

ITH a herb garden, Making crazy daisies and a sandpit with treats hidden in it… could Wthere be a pet hotel in Spain quite as posh? The latest installation at Posh Pets ‘boutique dog hotel and perfect cattery’ in Alhaurin is enough to make most owners smile and relax, let alone their pets. Just opened, the Pet Sensory Garden/Playground sits in a half acre grove of mature or- the boasting llarge ange, lemon and grapefruit Then there is lavender to en- courage scar tissue regenera- individual rooms trees and is a riot of smells and complete with sense! colours. tion, wheat grass for animals that are nervous, as well as climbing frames, The perfect place for your be- cat trees, toys and loved pet to play, interact with peppermint which is good for its cooling properties and often music. other dogs and unwind, it is Each cat has a the invention of award-winning selected by animals with skin irritations. It can also be used 360 degree view. groomer Rachel Goutorbe and “Our grounds are her husband Les. as an aid for training. The garden also boasts a wa- fully secure with “They absolutely love it in CCTV and we live there, running around playing ter feature, wind chimes, an illusion mirror (see right), sun on site so there is peace of together, their tails wagging,” mind,” continues Rachel, who explains Rachel, who has been catchers and crazy daisies, which spray the dogs with wa- has won grooming competitions Alhaurin can be picked up by running her upmarket kennels around the world, and now a licensed Pet Pick-up service since 2004. ter, keeping them cool in sum- mer. trains up students, who come too. “A lot of the dogs are rescue from as far as Greece and Hol- On top of this the company dogs and you can see how they The garden is also split level with climbing areas and a sun land. runs a fully licensed pet trans- unwind and relax there. “We understand owners con- portation service to and from “It helps to build up their con- deck allowing dogs to reach different vantage points. cerns for the care of their the UK and Europe. fi dence as well as to tantalise pets and they receive the “This is a door to door bespoke all their senses, plus it helps The fantastic adjacent dog hotel has its kennels same love and at- travel service for pets in ve- them to interact with their sur- tention as you would hicles that are totally custom- roundings and provide physical named after Coronation Street characters and bestow upon them ised for all your essential pets’ and mental challenges to help whilst they are in our needs. enrich their lives.” each comes with its own pink sun bed. care,” she says. Finally, the Grooming Salon Cleverly thought out, there is Regularly photos of & Groomers training centre is a big range of self-medicating Aside to this there is a the pets on their holi- fully equipped and caters for plants such as valerian, often day are posted on all breeds & crossbreeds as selected by anxious dogs for its spacious boutique the Facebook page well as cats. calming effect, and marigolds, POSH PETS SPAIN. Visit www.poshpetsspain. often selected by animals that cattery a w a y And clients that live com for more info or call are experiencing grief or emo- some distance from 952 597 035 tional stress. from www.theolivepress.es3333 ll about the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 3333 A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015 British-owned Iberian Funeral Plans now has 13 offi ces in three countries... From humble beginnings

T all began in a poky, shared offi ce in Al- land, for clients who return to Britain. haurin el Grande nearly a decade ago. “It is not easy to run a business in a foreign While Spain was on the brink of recession, country but the rewards are there if you do British expat Stephen Nelson was launching the job properly,” says Nelson. Ihis own funeral planning service with just one “We have grown thanks to our reputation other person. among clients, it’s as simple as that.” Now, as his company celebrates its ninth an- crisis and grow, due to its ‘fair, honest and That reputation has been built up over the niversary, Iberian Funeral Plans boasts offi ces sound service’. years thanks to the solid set-up with fully in Mallorca, Huelva, Portugal, Tenerife and on But the moment the fi rm really began to registered and legally-constituted compa- the Costa Blanca. soar was when it changed the name to Ibe- nies in each country. The independent fi rm - originally called SPN - rian Funeral Plans three years ago. The experienced staff do not employ high has 13 offi ces in total, with its four main Span- “Since then it has just taken off,” says Nel- pressure sales techniques, they are up- ish offi ces being in , Benijofar, Ayamon- son, a family man who has lived in Spain front and clear with customers from the te and, of course, Alhaurin el Grande. for 13 years. start. “Alhaurin was low cost and geographically per- “We have just opened an offi ce in Lagoa, on Nelson puts his success down to clear and fect,” explains Nelson, 55, the fi rm’s Director. the Algarve, and this year is all about push- precise pricing, terms and conditions, with “We shared an offi ce with an estate agent and ing forward with sales before we take the genuine fi xed-price funeral plans. it all grew from there.” next step and expand further into Spain.” But more than anything, it is the care and Nelson’s next step was to incorporate a com- The Spanish offi ces are all no more than an peace of mind for customers that they val- pany up in Valencia into his own, hence the hour apart, meaning customers are always ue highest. opening of a second offi ce in Benijofar and a close enough to receive the best personal “We don’t hide anything, we are complete- third satellite offi ce in Castilla. service. ly honest in offering customers a fair ser- The company continued to defy the economic There is even an offi ce in Macclesfi eld, Eng- vice,” he adds. 3434 the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 ll about www.theolivepress.es3 A G uadalhorce Valley WHERE TO EAT Creative cuisine There’s a fantastic mix of restaurants in the Guadalhorce Valley, writes Jon Clarke

ITH an incredible dalucia. ternational dishes, with a slant range of local pro- The hot conchas fi nas are on the oriental, Moroccan and duce it is no incredible, while the Thai. surprise you razor shells are as Its latest offering is an amazing Wcan eat well in the fresh as could be starter or main course of red Guadalhorce Valley. and the grilled king crab, which is as succu- Casa Paco attracts langoustines lent as lobster and comes care diners from far and unforgettable. A of owner Kees’ new company wide and under- stuffed tomato Norcrab (see side bar far right). standably so, with with tuna, egg Meanwhile you must try her- not just an amazing mayonnaise and ring on brown range of fresh fi sh prawns was su- bread, the and seafood, but for its perb. chicken sa- stylish interior. La Mota on the tay and a It has also been running since outskirts of Alhaurin, splendid 1985 with current owner Juan in its own secret valley, is ‘zar- starting to work there at the another extremely popu- zuela’, ripe old age of 16. lar rural option. which A charming livewire with a Run by a Dutch family, has a young family, he works ex- you dine on a candle-lit top mix tremely hard to make sure the terrace at night surrounded of shell- offering is continually fresh by mature pine, orange and fi sh, rosada and of the season and it is not avocado trees. and langous- for nothing this is one of the A classic rural idyll, the diners tines. genuine ‘dining secrets’ of An- are spoilt with a great mix of in- The Thai prawn and chicken WHERE TO STAY A rustic dream Guadalhorce Valley has some of Andalucia’s best rural retreats to luxuriate in, writes Jon

THE track narrows and drops down into the GRAND: Entrance at Rancho Ingles most amazing hidden valley. Just fi ve minutes from Coin, Barranco Blanco doors, beds and columns, or the collection of is one of those places that has to be seen to tables and beams, it is one for a visit. be believed. A former advertising man, David ended up Best of all, the stunning valley now has a getting into reclamation in the UK before charming place to stay, the Source of Well- moving to Spain and the fruits of his labour being, which is bordered by rivers and sur- include parts of the London Foreign Offi ce, St rounded by trees. Pancras Station and a Wandsworth church The perfect base for exploring the nearby are in situ. Guadalhorce Valley, expect to be pampered, Now run by son Cameron, with occasional with masseurs on-hand, not to mention a help from their daughter Milli, a chef in Lon- team of chefs able to drum up a great range don, you will most certainly not want to leave. of healthy meals. Another amazing rural spot to luxuriate in is At the other end of the valley near to Malaga Finca la Mota, in Alhaurin el Grande, that city and just 15 minutes to the airport, you was once one of the biggest estates in the will fi nd the enigmatic Rancho Ingles. entire valley. You arrive to a sliding gate, which The 350-year-old farmhouse sits in its own slides open to what can only be described as secret valley, surrounded by stunning coun- paradise. tryside and with views to match. A charming B&B that has been running for Run by Dutchman Kees and his two sons well over a decade, it sits on a leafy hillside Reuben and Danny, you enter into a classic just outside Alhaurin de la Torre. patio Andaluz with a huge pool and its own The creation of David and Miyuki, the his- terrace restaurant. toric cortijo has been lovingly restored and Inside it is charming with comfortable rooms has grown organically into one of Andalucia’s and a separate dining area. A lovely shady most charming places to stay. pool and views to match make up the scene. Now also a wedding venue, it is the attention Best of all, it has a highly rated restaurant, to detail that best catches the eye. perfect for shady dining by day and charming Whether it be the eclectic mix of antique atmospheric dinners at night. www.theolivepress.esAll about G the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 3535

My pincer movement ALWAYS looking for a new STYLISH: Casa Paco and (below) Bohemia way to keep his regulars hap- py, Kees de Cock jumped at ing at the best cooking school ible talent both for his interior the opportunity to serve up in Bordeaux, Ecole Hoteliere de design, food and original red king crabs from Talence, packed up his kitchen tapestries which line the the north of Nor- utensils and headed to Spain walls. way. 20 years ago. His food is classic And so im- “I am passionate about cook- soul food with a pressed ing and I want to share that heavy emphasis on were his passion,” he says. vegetables and, in clients at “Cooking is my life. My parents particular, I loved Finca la owned a restaurant and I was the aubergines lay- Mota, in Al- all but born in a kitchen.” ered with salmon, haurin, he GALLIC FLAIR: Postillon After running a restaurant in parmesan, chives, cav- decided to set for the best part of a iar and cherry tomatoes. up a company curry came in red, green or decade, Xavier made the move The courgettes stuffed with to import the huge yellow depending on your pref- inland to spend more time with goat’s cheese were amazing crustaceans, via a cli- erence for spice and was deli- his family. too and the portions are of an ent, a fi sherman, who has a cious. The apple strudel was As one would expect his foie excellent size. holiday home nearby. a sure fi re winner to end the gras is excellent, as “This chap has been fi shing meal. is his lovely seafood them deep from the ocean If you are looking for Gallic fl air ‘gratin’ with prawns for years,” explains Kees, a (and let’s face it which foodies and scallops, not to former tour guide. “They are aren’t?), then look out for stal- mention a fresh sea better than lobster and they wart El Postillon, where you bream. went down so well we set up eat on a fantastic terrace over- Finally over in Coin, a company to import them.” looking a leafy garden and with you must look out Served up as a starter with views into the nearby Sierra de for the adventurous island sauce (see picture . and highly roman- above), they arrived from Nor- You will be spoilt by the cook- tic, Bohemia res- way having been cooked and ing from Xavier Sierra, who taurant. then frozen. after working in his parents’ The owner Pedro For more information visit restaurant in France and study- Trillo has incred- norcrab.es 36 the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es