www.theolivepress.es the Olive Press May 28th - June 10th 2015 21 All 2121 about uadalhorce alley June 26 - July 9 2014 G Issue 214 www.theolivepress.es V May 28th - June 10th 2015 Different worlds Plunged into the Guadalhorce Valley, Rob Horgan discovers a secret world of lakes, white villages and rocky mountain highs hiding in the hills behind the Costa del Sol NEES knocking, hands scrabbling for something to grip on the crumbling rock face, at last I found a Kfoothold on the sheer-sided cliff and breathed a sigh of relief. Precariously perched 10 metres above one of Ardales’ shimmer- ing turquoise lakes, I snuck a quick look at the dizzying moun- tain backdrop before letting go, plunging from my rocky eyrie to pierce the smooth glass surface of the water below. As I emerged from the crystal clear water (shaking my curly locks, Baywatch-style) I was greeted by congratulatory cheers from onlookers awaiting their turn above me. It’s fair to say that my fi rst expe- rience of the Guadalhorce Valley took my breath away! Reached from Marbella on the Coin road, via the white-washed pueblos of Ojen, Guaro and Mon- da with its impressive hilltop cas- tle, it’s hard to believe that this BREATH-TAKING: View across the valley stunning valley is just 45 minutes near Alozaina and (inset) procession of the Virgin of Rondeles in Casarabonela Turn to Page 22 PICTURE BY ROB HORGAN 2222 the Olive Pressll about May 28th - June 10th 2015 www.theolivepress.es A G uadalhorce Valley May 28th - June 10th 2015 From Page 21 from the hustle and bustle of the Costa del Sol. Once a best-kept secret, this summer thousands of new visitors will discover this little- Andalucia’s known natural beauty spot on a mission to take the El Chorro Challenge. The Caminito del Rey is already a big hit with thrill seekers. Dubbed the ‘world’s deadliest walkway’ until its re-opening lake district this Spring after a €2.8 million restoration, this high-adrenalin hike runs above the El Chorro gorge, an immense fi ssure fi ve kilometres long and 300 me- tres deep, running between two towering limestone cliffs. El Chorro and Ardales, at the Andalucia’s own other end of the Caminito, are often called Andalucia’s Lake District and it’s easy to see why. ‘bread basket These two postage stamp-sized villages are linked by hairpin THE Guadalhorce Valley is 804km2 in size, and home to bend roads to three stunning, around 150,000 permanent residents, while many more own turquoise reservoirs bordered second homes there. by sandy beaches and shaded It has always been known for its citrus production, with or- by feathery conifers. The scen- ange and lemon plantations stretching out in every direction ery is more akin to the country- CRYSTAL CLEAR: Lake in Ardales, near El Chorro from the valley’s towns. side of Cumbria or the cantons Of the eight municipalities, Coin is the biggest. But towns such of Switzerland than anything A more ‘typically Spanish’ has never looked back. multitude of winding cobbled as Alhaurin el grande, Alora and Cartama are also immensely people imagine could be found lifestyle perhaps, something “Why would I ever go back?” streets, stacked either side popular with expats. on the Costa del Sol. that’s also noticeable in the re- he protests. “I love it here, the with white-washed houses. While fi rst colonised by the Romans, it was the Moors who With lakeside camping sites, gion’s bigger town’s – Coin, Al- scenery is incredible, the peo- Named by the Romans, turned have had the largest infl uence on the area. it’s the quintessential active haurin el Grande and Alhaurin ple are lovely and the way of life into a market town shortly af- Everywhere there is evidence of their work, which tamed the weekend break for outdoor de la Torre. is so much easier-paced than it ter and then abandoned for tumbling streams into irrigation systems and brought fertility sports types, offering rock As English expat Ray Finch ex- was back in London.” almost 500 years, the Moors to the whole of the valley. climbing, watersports, pedalos plains: “The Costa del Sol is Coin, the region’s ‘capital’ rebuilt most of Coin in 950 AD. But while the region has been termed one of the bread-bas- and dining under the stars at great for people who love the and largest town, is merely Marble and iron ore quarried kets of Andalucia since Roman times, the locals have long charming pine-shaded ventas. beach and like to party, but up an up-scale version of its from its hills into the 19th struggled with fl uctuating rainfall, which can still bring dev- The polar opposite to the glitz here in the hills, we get to expe- smaller neighbours (Tolox, century were used in the con- astating fl oods to the whole of the valley or leave the land and glamour of the nearby rience the real Spain.” Yunquera and Alozaina) with struction of the Roman town of parched for months on end. coast, the valley offers a more Ray moved from London to two main squares, an emblem- Italica, near Sevilla, birthplace peaceful, relaxed way of life... Coin fi ve years ago to retire and atic church at its centre and a of the future Emperor, Hadrian. Grapevine AREARE YOUYOU Properties CURIOUSCURIOUS ABOUTABOUT Grapevine THETHE VALUEVALUE OFOF Properties YOURYOUR PROPERTY?PROPERTY? Then contact us MARKETING IS OUR FORTE TEL: (00 34) 952 457 761 www.grapevine-properties.com 23 23 FROM BOYS TO MEN EVERY boy wants to grow up to be a sol- dier and in Alhaurin el Grande it is no differ- ent. Here, a group of teenagers practise moves with their rifl es Reconquered by the Christians in the hope after a siege in which the leg- of one day endary Christopher Columbus following took part, it also had a special place in the heart of another in the foot- great explorer, Captain Cook. HISTORIC: Arab tower in Alora steps of After a visit to Coin, Cartama the Foreign and Alhaurin in 1829 he wrote: “These villages are on rising ga province, El Castillo is believed – the crowning glory in most Legion that ground above the river and in to have been built by the Arabs of these pueblos - can be seen marches beauty of situation and cultiva- and used as a watchtower during against the skyline from the through its tion cannot be excelled. wars. Today this important heri- narrow streets below. From streets at “They afford a specimen of the tage site has been refurbished to the striking Santa Ana church whole country when possessed function as an information centre itself, there are spectacular Easter time. by the Moors, being surround- for the Sierra de las Nieves. views towards the Sierra Prieta. ed by gardens with orange, “Yunquera really is beautiful,” I saved the best gem for last lemon and palm trees and enthuses local artist Miguel Mer- on my weekend in the Guadal- abounding in all the fi ne as well chan. horce Valley – Alora, half an as the more common fruits.” “I often go down to the bot- hour up the road. Even today, the Guadalhorce tom of the town and look up Helping myself to the oranges is considered to be among the at the white houses with the and lemons dangling invit- most fertile valleys in all Spain. church spire sticking up in to ingly from the trees in the high Crisscrossed with streams, as the air. It makes me proud to street, I headed through bus- well as modern be from such tling streets packed with Mo- and ancient ace- an inspiring roccan and Roman infl uences quias (man-made Alozaina is place.” to the castle, which sits on a water channels), After a life- lofty pinnacle looking down on it is home both to embedded like a time dedi- this quaint pueblo. wild nature and jewel in a setting cated to art, A stop at the 17th century La En- modern cultiva- Merchan now carnacion church en route is the tion, while signs of olive groves runs a small perfect prelude to the main event of its fecundity museum in atop Cerro de las Torres hill. continue into the memory of The castle has had a long and villages where you can pick or- his mentor, legendary local chequered history. Originally anges and lemons from ‘urban artist and musician Francisco built by Phoenicians, before orchards’ of trees lining the Sola. being expanded under Roman streets! Set in Sola’s home, Merchan rule, it was destroyed by the To the west of the valley, ver- has recreated the artist’s study Visigoths and rebuilt by the dant Sierra de las Nieves Natu- and turned the upper fl oors Moors. ral Park has seen even less hu- into a gallery showcasing some Looking down one last time on man interference. of his best works - many of this lush green valley, as the Apart from the few towns and vil- them self-portraits and studies inhabitants of all these past lages on its outskirts, the park is of his family. civilisations must have done largely uninhabited, with a rich Just 15 minutes from Yun- too, I felt a pang of regret to be variety of pine, fi r, ash, chestnut quera, Alozaina is embedded leaving. and oak trees, and countless like a jewel in a setting of olive But then I remembered the streams and waterfalls.