©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 103

Siam Square, , Ploenchit & Ratchathewi

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Visiting Jim Thompson Square, such as MBK 4 Making a wish at the House (p105) – the teak Center (p113). crossroads of commerce mansion that put Thai style 3 Exploring Baan Krua and faith that is the Erawan on the map… before its ex- (p106), the canal-side Shrine (p106). spy owner disappeared off Muslim village where Jim 5 Enjoying the luxury of that map. Thompson first encountered what must be one of the 2 Shopping at the malls, Thai silk. world’s best-value cinemas, department stores and Paragon Cineplex (p111). shops that surround Siam

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For more detail of this area see Map p260 & p263A 104 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore: Siam Square, Pratunam, Admittedly, they tend to Ploenchit & Ratchathewi have all the ambience of a Siam Square, Pratunam and Ploenchit combine to form the hospital cafeteria, but the de facto geographical and commercial centre of modern mall-based food courts Bangkok. Huge air-conditioned malls, towering hotels, in- that abound in this part of ternational fast-food chains and open-air shopping centres town are among the most dominate this area, and if you’re serious about shopping, user-friendly introductions set aside the better part of a day to burn your baht here. to Thai food in Bangkok. Try to arrive around 11am, when the crowds are minimal. They’re generally clean Likewise, try to avoid Sundays when much of Bangkok and convenient, and also seems to flock to the area’s air-conditioned malls. Siam have the benefit of having Square is most easily accessed via the BTS (Skytrain), and English-language menus, so if you’re going to hit all the area’s malls, it makes the most ordering is a snap. sense to start at National Stadium and work your way east, taking advantage of the bridges, mall corridors and elevated walkways that link the various shopping centres. 5 Best Places Ratchathewi has a lot less to offer – unless you have a to Eat specific sight in mind or simply want to check out a more ¨¨MBK Food Island (p110) workaday side of Bangkok. The attractions in this area ¨¨Nuer Koo (p109) can be covered in a couple hours, and most are within ¨¨Crystal Jade La Mian walking distance of the BTS stop at Victory Monument. Xiao Long Bao (p109) ¨¨Mallika Restaurant (p111) Local Life For reviews, see p109.A ¨Mall-hopping On Sunday a significant part of ratchathewi & ploenchit pratunam, square, siam Bangkok’s population is drawn to this area’s malls to Best Drinking & socialise in stylish settings and air-con comfort. 6 ¨Air-conditioned dining A mall-based food court Entertainment may not seem like the most authentic place to eat, but ¨¨Co-Co Walk (p111) several of Bangkok’s most famous restaurants and stalls ¨¨Hyde & Seek (p112) maintain branches at the various Siam Sq area malls. ¨¨Saxophone Pub & ¨Wholesale retail For local penny-pinchers and visiting Restaurant (p113) wholesalers the ultimate destination is Pratunam For reviews, see p111.A district, where a seemingly never-ending clothing bazaar stocks locally made and cheap import clothes. ¨Keeping it real For a view of Bangkok without malls, 7 Best Places cupcake bakeries, fashionistas and tourists, take the BTS to Shop north to the Victory Monument in Ratchathewi, where you’ll find ordinary Thais doing ordinary Thai things. ¨¨MBK Center (p113) ¨¨Siam Square (p115) ¨¨CentralWorld (p115) Getting There & Away ¨¨ (p115) ¨BTS To Siam Square, Pratunam and Ploenchit: ¨¨Pratunam Market (p115) Siam, National Stadium, Chit Lom, Phloen Chit and For reviews, see p113.A Ratchadamri. To Ratchathewi: Ratchathewi, Phaya Thai and Victory Monument. ¨Klorng boat To Siam Square, Pratunam and Ploenchit: Tha Saphan Hua Chang, Tha Pratunam and .Tha Witthayu. To Ratchathewi: Tha Pratunam  ¨Bus To Siam Square, Pratunam and Ploenchit: air- con 141, 183, 204, 501, 508 and 547; ordinary 15, 16, 25, 47 and 73. To Ratchathewi: air-con 503, 513 and 536; ordinary 29, 36, 54, 59 and 112.