INSIDE: What to See in Bellagio 4 The Gems An Unusual Museum 6 of Central Where to Stay on Lake Garda 7 Lake Como Grand Hotel Tremezzo century before George Clooney Palace 8 A set up house along the shores of Lake Como, it was already a world- Italian Government Tourist Board Tourist Italian Government View of the Borromeo Islands from Stresa renowned destination for at least a SPECIAL REPORT:THE LAKES few centuries. Virgil, Stendhal, Verdi, Byron, Shelley and Wordsworth were all captivated by the lake’s deep blue water, Alpine peaks and flourishing dream of flora. While every corner of the lake has something to offer – the main city of Como has been Italy’s silk capital since the 1500’s, the village of Cernobbio is home to one of the world’s most lux- urious hotels, Villa d’Este — this tour focuses on a concentration of gems in the central portion of the 30-mile long ITALYVolume 5, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com July/August 2006 body of water. After a 45-minute drive from Milan, Redemption on Lake Maggiore: pastel-washed lakeside villages beck- on as you snake around the two-lane THE BORROMEO ISLANDS road wishing madly that you were in a convertible Alpha Romeo. Continuing had just about given up on week- sightseeing. They are tiny — the three along the lakeside for 25 minutes end trips when an Italian friend open to visitors total just 50 acres — after having passed the city of Como, I recently suggested an outing to but allow visitors to stroll majestic an even more impressive and elegant Lake Maggiore. Despite calling Italy gardens, a summer palace and a quaint building than all of the rest appears home for years, I have never quite lost fisher’s isle, all in one day. on your left, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo the foreigner’s knack for turning up at Palace (see full review on page 8) in quaint towns to find the main attrac- The powerful Borromeo family, who the tiny village of Tremezzo, an tions under wraps for restoration and laid claim to them in the 12th century, excellent base for exploring this area. simultaneously managing to miss still owns Isola Bella and Isola Madre. (But also see some of the other lodg- opening hours for restaurants, shops The Isola Superiore, better known as the ing suggestions below.) and churches. All of which consider- Isola dei Pescatori, has been home to a ably raises the appeal of a good book fishing community stretching back to Cadenabbia on my couch in Milan instead. Armed the Neolithic age. with a bit of information, a few sup- Just a 10-minute stroll from Tremezzo plies and abandoning the idea of hav- Isola Bella brings you to the nearby village of ing to see everything, I discovered Cadenabbia where you can catch the short trips could actually be pleasant. Count Vitaliano Borromeo laid the cor- ferry to two of the areas most pictur- nerstone on this monumental Baroque esque villages, Bellagio and Varenna. Take the Borromeo Islands (Isole palazzo in 1632 on the family island Be sure to stop off at Villa Carlotta Borommee), about 20 miles from Milan’s named after his wife, Isabella. Space (Via Regina, 2; 39-0344-40405; Malpensa airport. The four of them dot was limited, but the idea was big: the www.villacarlotta.it; 7.50€ to enter), Italy’s second largest lake and put island would eventually resemble a an elegant and historic home with a together offer a day (or two) of prime continued on page 2 continued on page 4 Lake Maggiore’s shores lie in Lombardy, Piedmont and Switzerland. The highlight of the largest of the islands The Borromeo Islands continued from page 1 where pheasants, peacocks, the grounds home. Once you’ve Where to Stay Where to Eat adjusted to the light, take in the mon- umental structure built in the shape of a pyramid that climaxes in an enor- mous statue of a Unicorn ridden by Love. With a little imagination, it Grand Hotel Majestic Chez Manuel is easy to conjure the nobles Via Vittorio Veneto, 32 Via Di Mezzo, 41 strolling around the 10 terraces Pallanza (Verbania) Isola Dei Pescatori even though most of the basins, (39) 0323 504305 (39) 0323 32534 water jets and clever fountains www.grandhotelmajestic.it Closed Monday have long gone dry. The mild cli- The quiet lakefront town If you can tear yourself mate ensures blooms — includ- of Pallanza, mostly the away from al fresco dining ing azaleas and rhododendrons domain of Milanese with on the terrace, the upstairs BELLA — from March to September. weekend houses, has a tiny room features a frescoed medieval center and popu- ceiling owner Manuel found Isola Madre lar promenade.There’s a while restoring the restau- ferry to the islands directly rant a year ago.What it from Pallanza.The 4-star lacks in views, it makes up ship, with the villa built on the The highlight of the largest of the Grand Hotel Majestic gets in charm and quiet. Lake narrowest part in the north (the islands is the sprawling English-style my vote because it’s close fish and seasonal risottos ship’s bow) and the garden on botanical gardens, where pheasants, to the lake but set back are the specialties here. the widest part in the south, as peacocks, bantam chickens and parrots enough to block the drone Non-diners can pop in for the stern. roam freely. Here, too, the favorable cli- of local traffic. Boasting 90 an excellent espresso at mate allows maple, banana, olive, rooms, the hotel also the bar. Dinner for 2 The resulting maze of grand eucalyptus and palm trees to thrive offers an indoor swimming two–about 85€. rooms with high ceilings, elabo- side by side with camellias and rose pool, tennis courts, sauna Piccolo Lago and small private beach. rate stucco and chandeliers, is bushes. Unfortunately, 150 of the trees Via Filippo Turati, 87 impressive enough but the — including the famed Cashmere Rates:A standard double Verbania Fondotoce (Lago guest rooms are the real stars. Cyprus, over 200 years old and the room with breakfast is Mergozzo) The six rooms that wind largest of its kind in Europe — were 180€ per night. (39) 0323 586792 www.piccololago.it around the base of the building knocked down during a storm in June Hotel Verbano Closed Monday lunch were designed to resemble a 2006. The gardens have since reopened Via Ugo Ara, 2 grotto. Not just any grotto, but but are still somewhat in disarray. The Sacco brothers, Marco Isola dei Pescatori Neptune’s grotto, interpreted in in the kitchen and Carlo (39) 0323 32534 a burst of outré Baroque style. The palace, inhabited by the out front, make it well www.hotelverbano.it worth the drive to the best Thankfully cool even in sum- Borromeos until 1978, still has a Opens for the season restaurant in the area. mer, they are decorated with a domestic feel to it. Well, a titled domes- in March It’s about 20 minutes to complex mosaic of plaster tic feel, with a mish-mash of decor and get to the small lake seashells, stucco made to look historical costumes taken from other Let the tourist tide ebb behind Lake Maggiore. away and spend a tranquil like coral and a pebble-beach houses and an extensive doll collection, Artfully presented night on the Isola dei floor. A few random Asian arti- puppet collection and puppet theater specialties include trout Pescatori. The rooms, each facts and suits of armor (likely make this the most kid-friendly isle. from Lake Mergozzo, named after a flower and served hamburger-style overflows from the upstairs with gigantic cast iron with balsamic vinegar and rooms), the only decor, are best Isola Pescatori headboards, offer the caramelized onions or ignored. type of bed and breakfast steamed and accompanied Until 1971, just 200 souls lived on this charm often hard to find by spinach and pumpkin in Italy. Try the fresh pasta The design for the garden is rocky outcrop. Probably fewer live full puree.A large selection of at the hotel’s restaurant. even more impressive, although time on the island now, but with local cheeses and a vast the first thing most people schools of tourists and bustling sou- dessert menu round out Rates: Doubles, with break- notice coming out from the venir vendors it is a far cry from the fast included, range from the offerings.About 70€ dark of the grotto are the impe- quiet place it once was. Still, the farther 148 to 178€ per night. per person for dinner. rious white peacocks that call you head away from the ferry stop or “For however fanciful and fantastic the Isola Bella is the sprawling English-style botanical gardens Locarno bantam chickens and parrots roam freely. main drag, Via Ugo Ara, you can find island — taking your time on the gar- Isola Bella and Isola pockets of quiet in the narrow twisting den or villa before having a Madre are open from streets and stunning views on the meal on Pescatori. 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. docks side. Borromeo daily. You must pay for Islands Pallanza Allow for the fact that Lake Maggiore admission; a ticket for Ernest Hemingway, who used lakeside you’re traveling by a Baveno Laveno both islands costs 15€. The jewel Stresa as the backdrop for ferry schedule. You can Stresa islands are open from March A Farewell to Arms, knew his way make the short trip to the to October; at the bookends of around the islands.