Volume 17 Issue 10

Brewery Ommegang Cooperstown, New York

Valar Dohaeris

We’ve long been fans of Brewery artisans of medieval Brussels came of Belgian kriek (cherry beer) added. Ommegang in upstate New together to stage a celebration Ommegang’s Witte Wheat Ale was added York, which has been making for the Holy Roman Emperor King in 2004 and became their first beer amazing Belgian-style beers Charles V and his Royal Court. The packaged into kegs, and the brewery’s since 1996. Ommegang became annual gathering would be known Belgium Comes to Cooperstown festival the first farmhouse brewery in as the “Ommegang” (meaning was first held in July of that same year. America in 100+ years, created ‘walking about’ and ‘coming Combining beer tastings, local foods, when the Belgian breweries together’) and continues as the camping, and music at Ommegang’s Duvel Moortgat, Affligem, and Brussels Ommegang Festival to scenic farmhouse location proved to Scaldis joined with importers/ this day. be a big hit, with over 50,000 people entrepreneurs Don Feinberg participating in the annual event over the and Wendy Littlefield to Brewery Ommegang following 15 years. create a Belgian-style launched its first beer in brewery in Cooperstown, 1997 with Ommegang The brewery’s done a ton of cool New York. They located Abbey Dubbel, a hefty projects over the years. There’s a the brewery on an old Trappist-style dark ale natural amphitheater that sits behind 140-acre hop farm in with spices that was Ommegang, and in 2011 the brewery the Susquehanna River packaged in 750mL valley, in a region once bottles—all pretty out (Continued on reverse page) known as Nova Belgium. there at the time of the SPECIFICATIONS early craft-beer scene.

The brewery takes its This was followed up Style name from a tradition in coming years by Belgian-style Tripel that started back in 1549, Hennepin Farmhouse Alcohol By Volume 9% when the merchants, Saison, Rare Vos Amber, Serving Temperature vendors, cooks, brewers, and Three Philosophers, 42–49° F musicians, theater the latter a Belgian- Suggested Glassware Chalice, Goblet, or Tulip troupes, and other style quad with a touch launched their Summer Concert Series beer series inspired by Game of Thrones, This proves effervescent in the first sip, with artists like Wilco, Jack White, Bonnie and it’s been resurrected briefly from with plenty of zesty pepper and herbal Raitt, and The Old Crow Medicine Show. its original 2017 release. This bright, character at the front. Vibrant fruit, The concerts have continued to draw up effervescent golden ale is depectively from pear to apple to lime, accompanied to 40,000 people annually. Ommegang light but quite potent, brewed with by a smooth honeyed core maltiness first launched its series of Game of pilsner malt, wheat, flaked oats, and and warming touches from the 9% ABV. Thrones beers in partnership with HBO flaked barley malt, along with Hallertau Flaked oats and barley malt contribute to in 2013, releasing over a dozen beers that and Tettnang hops. The beer is fermented a rounded, satisfying profile overall, while celebrated the characters and stories of by Ommegang’s expressive house yeast. bitterness comes from both yeast and the series. In 2016, the brewery worked Valar Dohaeris’ second and final release hops. The latter seem to contribute quite with Cornell University to create an was brewed in 2020. This much smaller a bit of herbaceousness and lime notes, experimental hop yard to encourage local run saw more limited distribution, with maybe even a hint of lemongrass. The hop farming, and releases a beer called about 1,000 cases or so allocated for sweetness is constantly kept in check, Hopstate NY each year that’s brewed the U.S. market. We’ll be taking a large and this beer’s a pleasure to sip on. exclusively with hops grown in the state. portion of that for our Rare Beer Club In 2016 and 2017, Ommegang partnered members, and after that this beer will be Valar Dohaeris has been our favorite of up with Liefmans—their sister blendery gone for good. the recent releases we’ve tried from in Belgium—to create two aged and Ommegang: a world-class tripel, with blended sour beers: Ommegang Rosetta Valar Dohaeris pours a beautiful light- exceptional details from the brewery’s and Ommegang Pale Sour, which quickly copper color in the glass: vibrant, house yeast. This ends pretty dry and became top sellers. (Our other feature honeyed orange and capped by a well- lightly warming, with considerable this month comes from Liefmans!) formed, fluffy white head. The foam’s well amounts of almond, pear, and pepper. retained, leaving strong lacing. This beer Satisfying and super engaging overall, These are just some of the highlights of basically glows in the glass; deep golden with fine-bubbled carbonation keeping what Brewery Ommegang’s been up to with pinpoint carbonation bubbling up. things lively throughout. since 1997. Ommegang has brought forth a ton of cool Belgian-inspired beer over Sweet grain and honey lead the aromatics. Pairing & Aging Notes: the past 25 years, and they continue to Generous degrees of freshly cracked develop great new beers and projects pepper and vanilla appear from the yeast The brewery expects this to be at its today. For the latest details on visits, the character, the spice providing welcome prime in the first year or two of bottling. tap house, current tours/tasting options, bitterness. There’s lots of honeyed malt, For pairings, Ommegang recommends and the latest news, head to ommegang. apple, and pear upfront in the aromatics; enjoying Valar Dohaeris with buttery, com. ripe fruit in abundance with some saucy, lightly sweet fare like French onion subtle caramelization and cotton candy. soup, Caribbean-jerk-grilled fish with Valar Dohaeris The alcohol keeps nicely tucked away, tropical fruit salsa, or Bananas Foster. appearing as sherry and vinous, plush Ommegang’s Valar Dohaeris is one of fruit presence. A fruity, peppery ferment. the most highly rated releases from their Soft alcohol and spice.

MonthlyClubs.com® 800-625-8238 Volume 17 Issue 10

Liefmans Craft Blenders Oudenaarde, Belgium

Kriek Brut

Liefmans got its start way four to 12 months, before getting in turn becoming the first official female back in 1679, when Jacobus blended with younger beer brewmaster in Belgium. Honestly, you Liefmans opened a brewery for secondary fermentation. should read more about Rosa Merckx— along the banks of the River Originally called Azenband (or ‘Iron she’s been a hugely influential figure within Schelde in Oudenaarde, Belgium. Band’)—referring to the iron hoops Liefmans and beer culture as a whole. (As The brewery’s building has now on beer barrels—it got renamed a brief related aside: Ommegang’s kriek been standing for over 300 years. Goudenband (or ‘Gold Band’) Rosetta was named after her.) Liefmans The world-renowned brewery around 1957, and its champagne was the first brewery to hand-wrap every has built its reputation on making cork was added. Another standout bottle in tissue paper, and Rosa’s signature beers through mixed fermentation Liefmans release, the brewery’s Oud appears on each Liefmans label to this day. in open vessels, as well as Bruin, dates back to 1679 and derives Now in her 90s, she still keeps an eye on establishing deep experience in its complex flavor from its specialty Liefmans’ quality. blending young and mature beers malts and secondary fermentation. to create their final releases; This month, we’re excited to feature these blended beers each get Around 1900, Liefmans began Liefman’s Kriek Brut—one of the tastiest aged for an additional one to to add black cherries to their krieks we’ve ever reviewed. This mixed- two years inside of Liefmans’ maturation tanks on a very fermentation beer combines Flemish historic cellars. The brewery small scale. In exchange for brown aged on fresh whole cherries, aged has traditionally brewed beer, local farmers would Goudenband, and aged Oud Bruin, before during the winter, and bring in excess cherry crops the blend gets aged for another 18 months. the blending process and to the brewery, beginning a It’s an incredible cherry beer, and we secondary fermentation long-standing tradition of (Continued on reverse page) was first introduced to cherry beer at Liefmans. help the beer supply stay in A hugely crucial influence tip-top condition through in Liefmans’ history was SPECIFICATIONS the summer. Rosa Merckx, who (among many other things) played Style Two of Liefmans’ beers in a major role in evolving Blended Kriek w/ Whole Cherries, Matured for 2 Years before Release particular might be familiar the brewery’s cherry to our Rare Beer Club beers. Rosa took over as Alcohol By Volume 6% members. The brewery’s Liefmans’ brewmaster Goudenband is a classic in 1972—after starting Serving Temperature 48–55° F dark beer from Belgium, with the brewery in brewed in open vats with 1946 when they needed Suggested Glassware Flute, Tulip, or Pinot Glass mixed fermentation for a trilingual secretary— managed to scoop up most of the remaining being matured for another 18 months. Kriek this certainly isn’t lacking in balancing U.S. allocation. This beer is no longer going Brut is a masterclass in cherry beer—and an tartness. The rounded cherry keeps this to be imported, so when it’s gone, it’s gone. absolute pleasure to dig into. lightly sweet and inviting, while that firm, layered acidity provides smooth, tart- The old Liefmans brewery has largely The initial look and aromatics of this beer lemon character underneath. Bold cherry been restored, with much of its original bring a showcase of cherries from the start. throughout. equipment retained and now serving as Kriek Brut pours deep burgundy red, almost part of a living museum. The brewery offers like currants, capped by fluffy, medium-tan We really enjoy Liefmans’ various blended the promise of delicious blended beers foam. The head is well formed and retained, releases across the board, but their Kriek overlooking the River Schelde, and tours leaving behind significant lacing when it Brut is on something else, providing a from a professional guide can be booked finally departs. cherry-focused complexity that we’d be online, explaining the history of Liefmans hard pressed to find elsewhere. The cherries and Oudenaarde’s dark beers. Learn more Huge amounts of ripe cherries and cherry are lightly sweet, gently bitter, or landing about the brewery and current visiting juice in the aromatics, accompanied by light with pronounced acidity in turn, lifted up by options at Liefmans.be. spice and dark berries. Tons of fruitiness Kriek Brut’s effervescent bubbles. Lingering to dig into here: currants, blackberries, currant and lightly tart cherry in a smooth Kriek Brut strawberries, figs, raspberries… The beer’s finish. A beautifully original, complex fruit mixed-fermentation character provides beer that carries its aging perfectly. Liefmans’ Kriek Brut is one of the best cherry mouthwatering acidity with a touch of beers we’ve rated over the years. Only 250 lemon. We noticed pie crust, accompanying Aging & Pairing Notes: cases of this were sold in the U.S. this past baker’s spices, some subtle guava. year, and we’re taking pretty much all of their Liefmans’ Kriek Brut is suitable for a bit remaining inventory; the brewery is pulling That first sip provides all the cherry focus of additional aging, but we think it’s this from the U.S. market going forward. and fruit complexity offered by the aroma. currently in its prime. The brewery suggests This mixed-fermentation beer starts with Sweet-and-sour balance gets struck pairing with arugula salad with balsamic a Flemish brown ale aged on fresh whole immediately, throughout keeping to the vinaigrette; rich dessert fare like cherry pie, cherries, which then gets blended with brighter, fresh-cherry side of things. There’s cherry cheesecake, or chocolate cake; or a aged Oud Bruin and Goudenband, before some really nice core acidity present, and creamy triple cream cheese.

Beyond the Bottle: Beer… Outside? By Ken Weaver

After mentioning the initial start to California’s wildfire season up with my mom, breathing actual outside air. last month, the situation only got worse here on the West Coast. Here in Sonoma County specifically, local breweries (and many It was pretty great. Fingers crossed it lasts for a bit. other businesses) have had to close their outdoor operations due to air-quality issues, having already ceased indoor operations Now that breweries are able to reopen their outdoor operations since mid-July due to COVID. For the past month, my wife and I (Moonlight, Cooperage, and Russian River have all at least have been checking the PurpleAir website on our phones at least temporarily reopened theirs as of this writing), the pendulum’s a few times every day, just to see if particulate-matter levels from able to swing in a slightly more helpful direction. Honestly, it’s the fires were low enough to go outside again. We’ve all been just nice not to be breathing toxic fumes of one form or another cooped up for weeks waiting for the levels to fall off. and enjoying a friggin beer. Where’s become your go-to spot for a beer outside in these trying times? Get in touch on Twitter via And then finally, this past week, after weirdo sunsets and pea- @RareBeerClub. soup skies for a while, we had actual blue skies again. Air-quality measurements in the county dropped to more manageable levels. Ken Weaver (@KenWeaver) is a freelance beer writer and illustrator My wife had lunch outside, which she hadn’t been able to do for based in Petaluma, California. He makes a weekly comic—about a weeks. I poured IPA after work and sat in the garden and caught weirdo brewery trying to survive—at massivepotions.com.

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