MAY MERCHANT VEGAS KENNETH FOR MEN KOLKER All the men’s shows DIES AT 89. in Las Vegas, and PAGE 8 brands to watch for.

WWDTHURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 FIRM CUTS FORECAST Macy’s Stumbles in Qtr. And Retail Shares Fall points, to 831.91. The Dow Jones By DAVID MOIN Industrial Average fell 0.7 percent, or 113.35 points, to 15,337.66. NEW YORK — Macy’s sneezed The declines at Macy’s don’t Wednesday — and all of retail got bode well for the rest of the earn- the shivers. ings season since the fi rm was ex- After a long string of quarterly pected to be a bright spot in a gen- comp-sales gains, Macy’s Inc. took erally tough quarter. a stumble in the second quarter Also posting stock losses for due to consumers tightening up, the day were Aéropostale Inc., leading to weakness in juniors, down 3 percent to $12.76; PVH jewelry, shoes, cosmetics, fra- Corp., 2.5 percent to $128.58; grances and watches. Urban Outfi tters Inc., 2.4 percent Shares of the department store to $40.77, and The Bon-Ton Stores fell 4.5 percent to $46.33 after it Inc., 2.3 percent to $15.07. reported a 0.8 percent second- “Obviously, the performance last quarter sales decline and earn- quarter was not what we are used ings per share of 72 cents, signifi - to,” Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, cantly below the 79 cents analysts chief executive offi cer and president projected and the company’s fi rst of Macy’s, told WWD. “We are disap- miss since 2007. Macy’s also cut its pointed we couldn’t overcome some forecast for the year. of the broader consumer challenges. Macy’s decline helped push “What was selling is a lot of our the S&P 500 Retailing Industry exclusive products and unique Group down 1.5 percent, or 12.72 SEE PAGE 8 Tapping Into China’s WeChat that is rapidly becoming the next By LARA FARRAR must-use tool to communicate with tech-savvy Chinese consum- SHANGHAI — A few years ago, ers. It is called WeChat, and since digital-marketing strategists were Tencent Holdings, also a Chinese buzzing about how brands needed Internet behemoth, launched to tap into Weibo, China’s answer it in late 2011, the service has to Twitter, as a platform to com- amassed some 300 million users, municate with the country’s more 70 million of whom are located than 500 million Internet users. outside the mainland. But now there is an alterna- In its August report on social tive. While Sina Weibo, the most media use by brands globally, digi- popular Chinese microblog site tal innovation think tank L2 called operated by Internet giant Sina WeChat the “hottest platform on Corp., still remains an impor- the planet.” tant component of brands’ digi- WeChat (known as Weixin in tal marketing mix, a new social China) is similar to Whatsapp, a networking service has emerged SEE PAGE 6 Color Me Purple Ralph Lauren is shining a spotlight on his elevated Purple Label collection for spring with an expanded offering of luxe sportswear to complement the line’s signature tailored clothing. The beefed-up offering, which also includes furnishings, accessories and footwear, may one day lead to a stand-alone retail concept. For more on Lauren’s spring line, see pages 4 and 5. For more men’s, see Men’s Week.

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO 2 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 WWD.COM Wet Seal Teams With ABC Family THE BRIEFING BOX Seal are perfect for this concept,” exciting about it is we turn our IN TODAY’S WWD By RACHEL BROWN said Koo, adding that the target goods seven times a year. Our consumers “like the story lines longest lead time is four months, LOS ANGELES — ABC Family and start appreciating the char- our shortest is a week. We can fans will soon be able to dress acters on the shows. I think that’s work with ABC Family on prod- like characters from their favor- one of the main reasons they uct that can be in the stores very, A look from Herschel ite shows with the Crush by ABC gravitate toward them. They re- very quickly,” he said. Supply Co. For more Family apparel and accessories late to the characters’ experienc- Scheduled to launch before brands to watch at the collection launching at Wet Seal es in their real lives and see how the holiday season, Wet Seal will Las Vegas trade shows, in late October. those translate in the shows.” showcase the Crush by ABC Family see WWD.com. Manufactured by Van Nuys, Koo explained that the first merchandise in its windows. Print Calif.-based Jerry Leigh, the group of characters chosen for and digital media campaigns initial Crush by ABC Family representation in Crush by ABC will get the word out about the collection with 35 stockkeep- Family encapsulates different merchandise as well, with social ing units priced from $9.99 to aesthetics. Pieces influenced media networks and text promo- $34.90 follows the wardrobe by Callie Foster, played by Maia tions being particularly important. choices of the characters Callie Mitchell, have a boho flair and On television, ABC Family will run Foster, Bay Kennish and Lacey reflect her casual, easy style. 15-second spots to promote Crush Porter on the programs “The They feature earthy·· colors and by ABC Family. It’s possible char- Fosters,” “Switched at Birth” and classic silhouettes. Pieces influ- acters from ABC Family shows will “Twisted,” respectively. Other enced by Bay Kennish, played wear the merchandise on those ABC Family characters could by Vanessa Marano, are meant shows and participate in Crush by get the apparel and accessories to bring to life her eclectic tastes ABC Family events. treatment later on, and Crush by and independent spirit. They ABC Family is partnering with ABC Family is already scheduled have edgy silhouettes and dark, Wet Seal at a time when the re- Macy’s Inc. took a stumble in the second quarter due to for at least six deliveries through romantic prints and graphics, tailer, which has 464 Wet Seal consumers tightening up, leading to weakness in juniors, August 2014. There will be three and include moto jackets meant stores and 61 Arden B. units, is jewelry, shoes, cosmetics, fragrances and watches. Page 1 collections per delivery with 15 to be worn with brocade print showing positive signs. Wet Seal’s to 30 sku’s in each collection. dresses and maxiskirts. Pieces net sales in the second quarter WeChat, a new social networking service, is rapidly becoming “We have done a lot of research influenced by the popular fash- ended Aug. 3 rose 1.5 percent to the next must-use tool to communicate with tech-savvy on this. We had focus groups Chinese consumers. Page 1 and receipt surveys. We have a panel that we use for Wet Seal One of the channels that inspires Kohl’s Corp. has been struggling for the last few years and that gives us information about its second-quarter results due today will be key in signalling our product, our marketing and whether a turnaround is under way. Page 6 what trends are happening every them [ Wet Seal shoppers] and that single month. One of the chan- The Jones Group bidders are lining up — but the process nels that inspires them [Wet Seal they watch is ABC Family. It is is still focused on selling the entire apparel and footwear shoppers] and that they watch is ABC Family. It is relevant to who businesses separately or the whole company outright. Page 7 they are and what is interesting relevant to who they are and what Condé Nast to them,” said John D. Goodman, on Wednesday named Pilar Guzmán, the editor chief executive officer of The Wet is interesting to them. of Martha Stewart Living, the new editor in chief of Condé Seal Inc. Goodman also has a Nast Traveler, succeeding Klara Glowczewska. Page 7 pretty good focus group at home, — JOHN D. GOODMAN, THE WET SEAL INC. where he has 15-, 13- and 12-year- The U.S. Department of Justice said Wednesday it has old daughters who are ABC settled a discrimination claim against Forever 21 Inc. Page 8 Family viewers. “I do see what’s ionista Lacey Porter, played by $137 million. Wet Seal’s same- happening out there,” he noted. Kylie Bunbury, contain embel- store sales were up 3.9 percent, Kenneth Kolker, former top merchant at May Department ABC Family is cable television’s lishment to spice up a feminine and Arden B.’s climbed 2 per- Stores Co., died Tuesday after a short illness. Page 8 number-one network in prime look. Key items are graphic tops cent. E-commerce sales were flat time for women aged 18 to 34 years to pair with sleek pencil skirts. for the period. Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. shares fell 1 percent after old, and the number-two cable TV Koo emphasized that Crush Talking about Wet Seal cus- jumping 12.5 percent Tuesday on news that its activist investor, network for females 12 to 34 years by ABC Family merchandise will tomers, Goodman said, “We are BeaconLight Capital, is agitating for change. Page MW1 old. “Twisted,” “The Fosters” and try to incorporate trends that really starting·· to get her loyalty “Switched at Birth” are among the Wet Seal shoppers want to in- back. We know she goes to mul- Pop-up markets have emerged to promote brands that cater network’s top-rated shows. Soo fuse into their closets and is not tiple stores, but we are giving her to the demand for authentic and Americana-themed product Koo, vice president of product de- merely a bulletin board for ABC the right product with the right among a notable subset of fashion consumers. Page MW4 velopment, softlines division, at Family shows. “It is not about a price, and it is resonating.”

Disney Consumer Products, speci- T-shirt that has characters all He continued, “We are at the A comprehensive list fied that females aged 16 to 20 or over it. Once girls branch into beginning of a transformation of trade shows and events on tap in a tad older or younger are in the those older-tween, early-teen here. We did see improvement Las Vegas. Page MW11 demographic target for the Crush years, they are moving away from in the first quarter, and that con- by ABC Family brand. the heavy graphic Ts.” Goodman tinued in the second quarter and ON WWD.COM “This is definitely a junior elaborated that Wet Seal would we are going to keep building. MEN’S WEEK: consumer. It is a Millennial, life- promptly pick up on hot trends We feel good about our inventory From a Portuguese tailored clothing maker style brand. That age group and to bring into the assortment. “We levels, and our margins are in- to cool Canadian backpacks, a group of global brands to the type of girls that shop at Wet are very, very fast, and what is creasing from last year as well.” keep an eye on in Las Vegas can be seen on WWD.com.

CORRECTION House of Harlow is showing at FN Platform. The show space Dillard’s Net Gains 17.7% in Qtr. was incorrect in a fashion caption on page 18 of the Las Vegas Preview section II, Wednesday.

diminished expectations for the three months ended Aug. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS By EVAN CLARK [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. the quarter. 3. Comparable-store sales in- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Dillard’s second-quarter net creased 1 percent. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. DILLARD’S INC. played the role income increased to $36.5 mil- Gross margins in the compa- VOLUME 206, NO. 33. THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two that analysts expected Macy’s lion, or 79 cents a diluted share, ny’s retail operations improved additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Inc. to play as second-quarter from $31 million, or 63 cents, a 10 basis points to 34.4 percent of Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, earnings season got under way year earlier. Earnings came in 5 sales for the quarter. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Tuesday. “Following a strong start to and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver The 282-door Little Rock, the year, we made further prog- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Ark.-based chain beat Wall ress in the second quarter,” said Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Street expectations for the quar- William T. Dillard 2nd, chief ex- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or ter with a 17.7 percent profit $36.5M ecutive officer. “Positive compa- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine gain, which drove the stock up rable-store sales and gross mar- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. 5.2 percent to $83.10 in after- DILLARD INC’S NET INCOME gin expansion, combined with You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt hours trading. FOR THE SECOND QUARTER. continued expense control, en- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request On the other hand, Macy’s abled us to report another quar- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at — a key Dillard’s competitor ter of year-over-year improve- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that with a national scope — was cents ahead of the 74 cents ana- ment at Dillard’s.” we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at expected to post strong results, lysts projected. For the first half, Dillard’s P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED but missed profit estimates for Total revenues, which include profits rose 22 percent to $153.7 ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER the first time since 2007 and the company’s CDI Contractors million, or $3.30 a diluted share, UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR cut back on its guidance, taking construction business, fell 0.6 on a 0.2 percent drop in reve- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A some of the air out of already percent to $1.52 billion for nues, to $3.11 billion. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “Desert hippie fairy scum transformation complete.” —rumi neely, Fashiontoast on nowmaniFest.com

where Fashion Finds its Voice 4 WWD thursday, august 15, 2013 The Dimensions of Ralph By JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label s may soon gets its own home. polo Ralph Lauren During a walk-through of his spring men’s wear presentation here Tuesday afternoon, the designer showcased an expanded presentation of his most luxurious offering with a blown-out sportswear and accessories component to complement its core tailored clothing, and said it may not be too long before the first Purple Label store makes an appearance. “This could be a store in itself,” he said, pointing to the array of updated classic sportswear pieces in bright colors, including a bonded leather peacoat with metal hardware, cozy cashmere cardigans, printed swimwear, jeans in vivid orange and yellow hues, floral ties and polos in a variety of colors ranging from lime green to neon pink. There was also a grouping of safari looks including an over-the- top crocodile jacket with a retail price of $90,000. Opening a freestanding store is “very possibly in the cards,” he said. The company recently opened a 10,000-square-foot store in Hong Kong “and it’s all Purple Label. That’s where it’s very strong and that’s why we’re putting together a whole statement.” In its fourth-quarter earnings call in May, the company revealed a heightened focus on retail — domestically, in Asia, and in new overseas markets such as Brazil. Specifically, the company is gearing up to roll out Polo stores worldwide, including a 35,000-square- foot flagship at 711 Fifth Avenue here, between 55th and 56th Streets. A Polo store recently opened in East Hampton, N.Y., and a second is set to open at The Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey in September. Direct selling, which includes e-commerce, now accounts for 52 percent of the corporation’s business, up from 40 percent five years ago. At his presentation, the designer showcased the many dimensions of his brand — from the rugged outdoors aesthetic of s Ralph Lauren RLX and the preppy sensibility purple Label s of Polo to the edgy, modern look of Black Label and the luxurious classic style of Purple Label. Although separate, the collections meshed seamlessly while still managing to maintain their own distinct personalities. “The dimension is what I’m trying to show — whether we go up or down, left or right. That’s the thing about this company, the dimensions,” Lauren said. He characterized Purple Label as “a very important category for us. We feel very strongly about it.” And he said it “has to have its own voice.” In clothing, he included everything from a “European” blue tuxedo — “It looks really fresh and is great for fall,” the designer said — to double-breasted suits in traditional men’s wear patterns with varying lapel widths and narrow silhouettes. “I like the slim silhouette but I also like wide lapels on double- breasteds, so we do both,” he said. polo Ralph Lauren s “In men’s wear, there are always subtle photos by john aquino

w15a004(5)a;6.indd 1 8/14/13 6:43 PM 08142013184518 WWD thursday, august 15, 2013 5 WWD.COM

changes, not big explosions — at least not in my world. The changes don’t happen overnight.” He characterized the clothing offering as “Savile Row-ish, because we give Savile Row credit for the imagery, but it doesn’t look like it.” The Purple Label offering also encompassed a wide range of accessories including lavender crocodile moccasins, chukka boots and suede The Dimensions of Ralph loafers in a variety of eye-catching colors along with travel bags, briefcases and luggage. “We’re known for color in Polo, but the man spending a lot of money on his clothes also wants color and wants to step out, so we’re giving him a

s rounded package [in Purple Label],” he said. Ralph Lauren purple Label The offering within the Polo collection was even more far-reaching. It included a blue-and- white collegiate story, patchwork-patterned sport shirts, plaid blazers, floral swimwear and an assortment of jeans, most with distressed finishes. Cable sweaters, cargo pants and a grouping of military-influenced pieces including camouflage-pattern neckwear and sport shirts blended with the preppie styling of the tailored

clothing to complete the picture. RLX has now been included in the s Polo presentation and added its s polo Ralph Lauren active influence to the offering. “We’re growing Polo throughout the world,” Lauren said. “It

remains a very important part of our [business], so we’re updating it and leading the market — that’s why we’re doing a store.” In Black Label, the focus this season was on the denim. Although’’ Lauren said the suits For more “are selling well,” he homed in on the “edgier, hipper, young and ImAGeS cool” jeans and jackets. Much WWD.com/ of the denim was white, while menswear-news. the jackets were black, which provided a stark contrast. In the Double RL collection, the offering looked like it could have been shown in “an old dry goods store,” Lauren said, pointing to the dark denim and olive military- style pants designed to look like they were manufactured from dead-stock fabrics. The group included a three-piece In men’s wear, there are s

s polo Ralph Lauren always subtle changes, not big explosions — at least not in my world. The changes don’t happen overnight. — RALPH LAUREN

denim suit, cashmere cardigans and an assortment of vintage-inspired casualwear pieces that could have been borrowed from the set of “The Grapes of Wrath.” “It’s more theatrical,” Lauren said of the Double RL assortment. “It’s like creating a movie. But it’s growing and we believe in it.” Double RL has also branched out into children’s wear. Lauren said the clothes he dressed his children in when they were little were passed down through the family and then “disappeared. But they’re landing here now.” ’’ This season’s presentation was different in that Lauren and his team had constructed separate rooms for each label rather than having them flow from one to the other in one large room. The impression was that the designer is further refining the image of each of his brands with the long-term vision, as he has said in the past, of perhaps opening freestanding stores for each of them. And in each room, everything was from the World of Ralph — including the furniture, the lights and even the carpets. “This is all product,” said David Lauren, the group’s executive vice president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications and its newest board member. “This is product,” he said as he pointed to a huge crystal chandelier and a mirror in the Purple Label room. “This is product,” he said as he pointed to a lamp. “And this is product,” he said, pointing to a vase. “And I’m product,” Ralph Lauren said with polo Ralph Lauren s a laugh.

w15a004(5)a;6.indd 2 8/14/13 6:44 PM 08142013184520 6 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 Tapping Into China’s WeChat Boom {Continued from page one} fied account allows a brand to post rich Brands are finding other creative mobile messaging application popular media content, such as videos and audio ways to use wechat. starbucks launched in the west that enables users to send messages, specifically tailored to the a campaign where followers could send messages using their phone’s 3G or platform. swiss watchmaker Hublot, for an emoticon to its official account, and wi-Fi connection. what makes wechat example, posts audio messages from ex- in reply the company would send back a unique is that it has rolled into one ap- ecutives who share experiences while song matching the emotion of the emoti- plication popular features from other traveling or visiting jewelry exhibitions. con. in Hong kong, nike used the plat- social networking services as well as a Brands are using other social media form to reach out to organize outdoor ex- few distinct innovations. to encourage fans to subscribe to their ercise events with its followers. similar to Facebook’s activity feed, wechat account. an increasingly popu- clarins is using the application’s users can share photos, videos and music lar way to amass fans is to incorporate geo-targeting feature to send out prod- with wechat contacts who can post com- Qr codes or barcodes into advertising. uct recommendations based on the cli- WeChat has amassed 300 million users. ments about the content. a walkie-talkie mobile users can then scan the codes mates in which fans live. in april, swiss function allows users to send real-time with the cameras on their phones and watchmaker jaeger-Lecoultre launched to log onto alibaba’s Taobao.com, the voice messages; there is a live video- immediately become followers of brands. a wechat quiz where winners would re- largest consumer-to-consumer online chat feature, and subscribers can en- so far, there appear to be several ways ceive a prize. Followers of coach can shopping site in china, via their weibo able a “shake” function to locate users in which brands are using wechat. Given send the word “wallpaper” to the ac- accounts. weibo will offer sellers on nearby. Users can also form chat groups that users can directly message compa- count and receive a special wallpaper to Taobao special marketing services to of friends or with those who have simi- nies (messages are not seen by other fol- download on mobile devices. promote their products. lar interests. most users are white-collar lowers), the application is becoming an “wechat is about the depth of commu- in april, alibaba acquired an 18 per- urbanites between the ages of 20 and 39, important tool for customer-relationship nication,” Vivian Zhu, managing direc- cent stake in sina weibo for $586 mil- according to Tencent. management. “a lot of people are using tor of digital and data and analytics op- lion. in a sign of intensifying competi- To say that wechat is popular in it for customer service,” rand Han, co- erations in china for starcom mediaVest, tion between Tencent, sina and alibaba, china is an understatement. it is virtu- founder of resonance china, a social- said. “what your followers can get out of alibaba banned sellers on its shopping ally ubiquitous. so much so that chinese media consultancy in shanghai, said, the interaction.” sites from subscribing to marketing and telecom operators have experienced adding that users are beginning to ask There are mistakes brands can make promotion apps linked to wechat. noticeable declines in revenues in re- brands questions about price and prod- on wechat that mainly revolve around it remains unclear whether chinese cent months due to subscribers no lon- uct availability directly through wechat talking to followers too much. digital consumers will make purchases using ger using text messages and voice calls rather than going to a web site to check. marketers recommend sending out as wechat. “i don’t know how the monetiza- for communication. instead, everyone is digital strategists with starcom few as one to two messages a week to tion part of wechat is going to fly,” Han using wechat. mediaVest Group, a global media con- fans. otherwise, followers might feel of resonance china said. “if the platform now brands are trying to figure out sultancy with offices in shanghai, said overwhelmed. many say sina weibo is becomes too commercial, then maybe an- how to use it. that the crm function has the most losing influence because it has become other platform will emerge. once they most digital-marketing strategists potential for luxury brands, which can too commercialized: chinese are looking start the in-app purchasing, then every agree that due to the newness of wechat, build upon existing relationships with at weibo less because it is overwhelmed brand will want to push their messages, brands’ use of the service is still large- ViP customers by opening exclusive with companies constantly sending out and it could have too much spam.” ly in an experimental phase. Ye t many channels on wechat for them to com- promotional material. But it appears wechat will remain a consultants also say that even though municate with brand representatives. “wechat is intimate, and because it is force for a while given that more than best practices for wechat use are being a number of luxury players, including a mobile platform, it is much more per- 400 million chinese connect to the tested, they are telling clients that it now Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, already sonal,” ang said. “ Yo u receive alerts and internet with their smartphones, which must be a requisite part of their digital have accounts. messages that are to you. Brands can’t be are becoming more accessible due to an presence in china. “crm is the future for luxury brands too intrusive.” abundance of cheap handsets being re- “wechat is a game changer,” on wechat,” ker Loon ang, digital di- The app is continuing to evolve. in its leased on the mainland. Franklin Yao, chief executive officer of rector at starcom mediaVest Group latest update to the platform, released There is also evidence that chinese smithstreet, a shanghai-based strategy shanghai, said, adding that there is the in august, Tencent has introduced an in- are beginning to make more purchases consultancy, said. “with the impact it is potential for luxury consumers to stay app payment system that allows users to via mobile phones. in the second quarter having on people’s lives and the way peo- in touch with salespeople from luxury link their bank accounts to wechat, en- of 2013, the total sales revenue generated ple are sharing information in all sorts of players via wechat to ask questions abling one-click payment for items from via mobile third-party payment platforms ways, it is an all-encompassing tool. But about products or find out about ex- official accounts. There is also a new reached 106.4 billion yuan, or $17.4 bil- in terms of how brands are taking advan- clusive events. “customers can stay in scanning function that allows users to lion at current exchange, a nearly 65 tage of it, it is still very early on because touch with their personal salesperson access product information by scanning percent increase compared with the first it is so new. all of the time. if a luxury brand gets on an object. For example, a user could quarter of this year, according to ire- “a year from now, it will be very dif- wechat, that is the level of communica- scan the bar code of a book and get pric- search, a consultancy focusing on china’s ferent,” Yao added. tion needed.” ing information or scan street views to internet industry. on sina weibo, brands open a veri- another unique feature is location- get locations. Tencent is aggressively trying to grow fied account and post content ranging based marketing. Followers can become There are also new types of accounts the app’s user base, not only in china from promotions to videos, which can be members of a brand’s account, which en- for brands. in addition to an official ac- but also abroad. The internet company viewed by sometimes tens of thousands ables the brand to know where users are count, where companies can post promo- has launched advertising campaigns in of followers. communication tends to be geographically located. Thus a company tional material, there are now service ac- other countries, including one commer- one-way, rendering the platform an effec- could send messages about a promo- counts, which encourage crm activities cial featuring argentinian soccer star tive medium to broadcast messages to a tion in Beijing only to followers located from brands by enabling them to connect Lionel messi. mass audience. in that city. The location-based function directly with users. “at the moment, our goal is to create in contrast, wechat allows one-to- even allows companies to pinpoint mes- wechat’s integration of in-app pay- a good product that people like and to one communication between brands sages to users located in a specific dis- ment pits the platform arguably in acquire as many users as we can,” katie and consumers and enables brands to trict of a city. or if a wechat user is a fan direct competition with sina weibo, Lee, a Tencent spokeswoman, said. “it is create more targeted marketing cam- of a brand or, say, shopping mall, the user which, in partnership with chinese e- a very interesting platform for people’s paigns. similar to weibo, companies can can enable their smartphone’s location- commerce giant alibaba, is also explor- daily lives. a lot of things can be found open a verified account on wechat, and based function and receive promotional ing e-commerce via its microblog. early on wechat, things that people could not then begin attracting followers. a veri- news from stores nearby. this month, sina enabled weibo users imagine are possible.”

“From a financial results perspective, fiscal 2012 was a disappointing year for CEO’s Future Could Rest on Kohl’s Q2 our company,” kohl’s said in the proxy. “while sales grew for the year in total… still, the retailer’s board has ex- $7.8 million and included a salary of $1.3 there were a number of categories within By Lisa Lockwood pressed its displeasure at the company’s million and incentive pay of $531,720. He which we did not grow at the rate we had performance. kohl’s net profits fell 15.5 also received stock and options awards planned. just as importantly, our growth as one major retail chief executive percent to $986 million last year as sales from prior years valued at $5.6 million. came at a higher cost to profitability than officer, j.c. Penney inc.’s myron “mike” inched up 2.5 percent to $19.28 billion. “Because the company failed to is acceptable to us.” Ullman 3rd, may be feeling less pressure, For the first quarter ended may 4, achieve acceptable financial results kohl’s, which markets such brands another one — kohl’s kevin mansell — kohl’s earnings declined 4.5 percent to in 2012, our principal officers did not as candies, rock & republic, chaps, could be the next on the hot seat. $147 million from $154 million. sales for achieve a ‘satisfactory’ rating for the year simply Vera Vera wang, Lc Lauren kohl’s has been struggling for the last the quarter declined 1 percent to $4.2 and therefore did not receive any stock conrad, jennifer Lopez and dana few years even as Penney’s has stumbled, billion from $4.24 billion. mansell at- options, restricted shares or any other Buchman, has had a tremendous op- and its second-quarter results, due today, tributed the first-quarter sales decline to form of equity awards in 2013 based on portunity to capture market share from will be key in signaling whether a turn- cold weather, which slowed sales of sea- 2012 performance,” according to kohl’s Penney’s, which has been struggling the around is under way or more difficulties sonal merchandise. on the call, mansell proxy statement filed with the securities past few years, but that hasn’t happened. lie ahead. kohl’s is expected to report said kohl’s was investing in information and exchange commission in march. mansell, who has been with kohl’s for earnings per share of $1.05, up from $1.00 technology to offer customers a full mul- others who got their compensation re- more than 30 years, became ceo in august a year ago, on revenues of $4.3 billion. tichannel shopping experience. duced at kohl’s were donald Brennan, 2008. Before that he was president of as with Ullman at Penney’s, there as reported in march, the compen- chief merchandising officer, and john kohl’s corp. and kohl’s department stores have been rumblings that mansell might sation committee of kohl’s board cut worthington, chief administrative officer, inc. earlier he served as executive vice be on thin ice at kohl’s — speculation that mansell’s compensation, as well as that who resigned from the company in may. president and general merchandise man- a spokeswoman vehemently denied to of two other top kohl’s executives, as a Both Brennan and worthington saw their ager, having joined the retailer in 1982. wwd on wednesday. “There is absolutely result of the poor results. mansell’s total total compensation fall by just more than He began his career in 1975 at the Venture no truth to that whatsoever,” she said. compensation last year fell 17 percent to 71 percent to $3 million. store division of may department stores.

w15a006a.indd 6 8/14/13 8:27 PM 08142013202844 2.5x7 (right)

WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 7 WWD.COM

The company is making a statement with its media buy. Instead of traditional Fashion scoops MeMo pad print, A|X is focusing almost entirely on digital outlets, though these are still NEW VOYAGE: In a late Wednesday being finalized. There will, however, also A PIECE OF JONES: The would-be director Trish Wescoat Pound calls afternoon appointment, Condé Nast be outdoor placements around New York bidders for pieces of The Jones Group comfortable and sexy “clothes to fly named Pilar Guzmán, the editor of Martha City. — MARC KARIMzADEH Inc. are lining up, but the process — in” — has found its island hideaway, Stewart Living, the new editor in chief of which is being run by Citi — is still inking a deal to be the exclusive Condé Nast Traveler. She succeeds Klara focused on selling the entire apparel retailer at Chris Blackwell’s GoldenEye Glowczewska, who held the title since 2005. and footwear businesses separately resort in Jamaica. Guzmán was the founding editor of or the whole company outright. Chief executive officerJesse Cole Condé’s Cookie until it folded in 2009. Toronto-based Sherson Group, a said the 500- to 700-foot store would She most recently won a National longtime licensee of Jones’ Nine West be open for the start of high season in Magazine Award for general excellence footwear brand, has hired investment mid-November and would feature an for Martha Stewart Living in the bank Avalon Net Worth to pursue an exclusive capsule resort collection. lifestyle category. Between her and new acquisition of the moderate footwear GoldenEye was once home to Ian publisher Bill Wackermann, formerly of business, which includes Nine West, Fleming, who wrote all of his “James Glamour, Traveler has a new team at the Bandolino and other brands. Bond” novels there, and has been an top of its masthead. “They’ve engaged us to get to Jones inspiration to others as well, including In a statement, Guzmán name-checked and see whether we’re able to extract Sting, who wrote “Every Breath You new Condé artistic director and Vogue that piece,” said Jack Hendler, president Take” while vacationing there. editor in chief Anna Wintour. Sarah Jessica Parker in headpieces on the covers of Avalon. “They want to make sure it “Every time we’ve been there it’s “I look forward to working with of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. falls into the right hands.” been a celebrity hangout,” the Condé Nast Traveler team and The licensee has some For more Cole said. “The three times particularly to drawing upon the insights DEJA VIEW?: The September Harper’s company in the wings. scoops, see we’ve been there, Kate Moss and vision of the company’s artistic Bazaar had some people seeing double. In Delta Galil Industries has been there.” Cole also director Anna Wintour to catapult this the edition sent to subscribers, Sarah Jessica Ltd. is also believed to be WWD.com spotted David Duchovny and legendary brand,” she said. Parker, shot in profile, wears an enormous, interested in buying the Kid Rock at the resort. “It is Glowczewska, Condé said in a $1,200 feathered headdress by Ellen Gloria Vanderbilt business. a really exclusive place for statement, “will leave Condé Nast after Christine Couture. The image seemed And a source close to the situation the tastemakers and the innovators many successful years of service.” familiar because just a few months earlier said, “Every garmento in New York in that rock ’n’ roll set,” he said. — ERIK MAzA Vogue produced a scrapbook of images has come out of the woodwork” Just the set Haute Hippie is and lists, a special newsstand edition, wanting a part of the company. The courting with its mix of T-shirts that DRAMA LESSON: A|X Armani Exchange’s dedicated to the Costume Institute gala. On source cautioned that not all of the cost $65 and gowns that run as high fall campaign, inspired by an actor’s that cover, Parker, shot on the red carpet in expressions of interest are credible. as $4,000. — E.C. studio, was photographed by Robbie profile, again wore a headpiece, that time — EVAN CLARK Fimmano in the cinematic backstage area a mohawk-inspired Philip Treacy. BIRTHDAY BASH: Kate Spade’s 20th of Loew’s Jersey Theatre in Jersey City. Fashion magazines duplicate each ART APPRECIATION: Forget an e-vite. For anniversary celebrations made their Styled by Karl Templer, the black-and- other all time — how else to explain the her spring runway show, Tanya Taylor way to Tokyo Wednesday. President white images capture models Sean O’Pry, ubiquity of One Direction covers lately? decided to go in a much more personal and chief creative officerDeborah Paule Hoarau, Paolo Anchisi, Milou Sluis, Hind — but this seemed like an especially direction. On Tuesday afternoon, Lloyd, ceo Craig Leavitt and stylist Brad Sahli and Francisco Peralta wearing the accelerated homage. Not so, says Bazaar invitees received their own Tanya Goreski hosted a birthday party for new denim line that launches at A|X — Vogue had nothing to do with it. Hats Taylor original in the form of a mini, the brand and mingled with local worldwide on Sept. 16. are just Bazaar’s accessory du jour. hand-painted canvas. “It was 600 fans. A New York taxi cab welcomed “We love a headpiece,” said Laura canvases on a Sunday afternoon,” the attendees to the event, held in Brown, executive editor, special projects. designer explained. “It was myself and Roppongi restaurant. “Sarah Jessica joins Gwen Stefani [last two other team members. We thought Leavitt said that both Kate Spade September], Kate Hudson [October] and it would take two days, but it only took New York and the newly launched Gwyneth Paltrow [May], all cool cats in hats four hours. It was probably the most Kate Spade Saturday brand continue on our cover in the last year.” fun Sunday I’ve had in a long time.” to do well in Japan, and the company Of course, Vogue also slapped a Taylor went on to describe how the has additional store openings planned wide-brim hat on Stefani in January unique invite reflects her upcoming for both brands. and a cloche on Carey Mulligan in May. collection. “A lot of the prints in the “It’s still going strong. We’re No doubt the hat arms race between collection are hand-painted, so it just really, really excited, and, you know, the two titles will continue unabated particularly for us in a market that for the foreseeable future, but it seems we’ve been in now for 17 years, to still appropriate at this time to ask readers, to see the kind of year-on-year growth An image from A|X Armani borrow a line from Stephen Sondheim: Does that we are seeing is really exciting for Exchange’s fall campaign. anyone still wear a hat? — E.M. us,” Leavitt said. “It shows that there’s more appetite for the brand, and I think since acquiring our Japanese business last year, it’s revealed even more opportunities.” Leavitt also said that next spring, Kate Spade New York plans to open its first Japanese flagship in Tokyo’s Ginza neighborhood. Three other smaller store openings are planned for this fall in other areas of Japan. Kate Spade Saturday, which launched in Japan earlier this year, has For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. also been seeing success in the market. “We’re very pleased, and we’re still learning about our customer and the product, but we’re very pleased with the launch, and we’re continuing to Spaces open additional stores,” Leavitt said. New York Embroidery Studio Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking In addition to pop-up and permanent COMMERCIAL novelty embellishments NYC, China & India stores in the U.S., Leavitt said he 212-971-9101 [email protected]

photo by Kyle ericKsen Kyle photo by expects to see openings in Asian cities REAL ESTATE HONEY MAGAZINE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Opportunity: License our brand / nego- PRODUCTIONS such as Singapore within the next six tiable. Apparel, Footwear, Beauty, Ac- Full service shop to the trade. Tanya Taylor’s colorful invite. cessories & more. Call: 1888-484-0548 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 months or so. [email protected] made sense to continue that into the Lloyd said that Japanese invitation itself,” Taylor said. “I love consumers respond well to the femininity of the brand, which she Showrooms & Lofts the idea that this is a piece from our BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS office and that we actually had our said has become the go-to label for Great ’New’ Office Space Avail hands on it.” date-night dresses among Japanese ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Of course, as with any art women. But she also said the experiment, end results were varied. admiration goes both ways. “We started off really ambitiously, “In a year’s time, there’s going To subscribe, visit our website and most of the canvases were covered to be probably a collection that will www.wwd.com/subscribenow in paint,” the designer said. “Then be inspired by this visit,” she said. we realized they look more beautiful “I’ve been taking an awful lot of or call 800.289.0273 when there was more white showing, photographs of the girls — I love the so we had some duds. They were not way they mix up the clothes from the cutest.” — LAUREN McCARTHY us as well. They have their very individualistic way of putting things HAUTE ON THE BEACH: Haute Hippie — together, and I’m always excited to see the fast-growing brand specializing what they do with that.” (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] in what founder and creative — KELLY WETHERILLE

w15a007a.indd 7 8/14/13 8:15 PM 08142013201702 8 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 WWD.COM Macy’s Suffers Blow in 2nd-Qtr. Sales Forever 21 Settles {Continued from page one} stores this month, as part of Macy’s sta- Discrimination Claim products that aren’t in everyone’s closet. ble of impulse brands. Macy’s Mstylelab i am hoping there is going to be a big targets customers 13 to 22 years old. WaShinGton — the U.S. Department shift in terms of cold-weather products. lundgren also indicated that the sec- of Justice said Wednesday it has settled Certainly, warm-weather products did ond quarter was planned for a lower a discrimination claim against Forever not perform well.” increase than the first quarter because 21 inc., which has agreed to pay While Macy’s comp-store sales a “friends and family” promotion was $1,750.50 in back pay to a newly hired dipped, ending a run of 13 straight quar- shifted partly into the first quarter. he employee, as well as a $280 civil fine. terly revenue gains, the department store said customers did respond to mark- the retailer is settling allegations did keep its streak of earnings per share downs taken after a cool spring, and that that it violated the antidiscrimina- gains alive — 15 quarters in a row. Macy’s Bloomingdale’s sales rebounded in the tion provision of the immigration ePS rose to 72 cents for the quarter second quarter. and nationality act when it re- ended aug. 3, versus 67 cents a year ago. the Macy’s chief seemed optimistic jected an employee’s employment net income for the quarter was up 0.7 about the rest of the year, noting that authorization Document, which is is- percent to $281 million, from $279 mil- Macy’s accelerated receipts of fresh in- sued by the Department of homeland lion, while total sales slipped 0.8 percent ventory to respond to an early start to Security, and instead required her to to $6.07 billion from $6.12 billion. the academic year in certain regions of provide a “green card,” or permanent Macy’s cut its forecast for the year the country, helping the younger fashion residence card, as part of its employ- to a comps increase of 2 to 2.9 percent, categories. of the acceleration, he said, ment verification process. versus a previous forecast of 3.5 percent. “that’s done on a very localized level.” a Justice Department spokeswoman earnings for fiscal 2013 are now expect- lundgren described the second-quar- said the woman had accepted an offer ed to range between $3.80 and $3.90 a di- ter performance as more of a “speed from Forever 21 and had reported for luted share, versus the previous $3.90 to bump” rather than an emerging trend. work. She was later unable to work $3.95 projection. Macy’s stock closed at “this is not going to stop us,” lundgren after the retailer refused her work- ichner $46.33, down $2.17, or 4.47 percent. e said during the interview in which he authorized document. the $27.7 billion, 840-unit Macy’s, stressed that he and the rest of manage- an employer is prohibited from dis- which has long been among the best re- Terry J. Steve ment do not see a change in the momen- criminating against employees or job tail performers through the recession Lundgren tum Macy’s has accumulated over the applicants while verifying a person’s em- and recovery, was first out with reporting last three years. “the focus of our com- ployment eligibility, by demanding spe- photo by the second quarter. today, nordstrom pany is constantly improving on what cific documents or rejecting acceptable inc., Wal-Mart Stores inc. and Kohl’s tainly better to have strong young busi- we have done in the past. there is still documents based on the status of citizen- Corp. report second-quarter figures, and nesses,” at this point. significant opportunity for growth ahead ship or national origin. Dillard’s inc. reported after the market lundgren and other company of- of us. We had 13 great quarters. now, our in addition to the back pay and closed on Wednesday. ficials couched Macy’s second quarter focus is on having a fourth great year in a fine, Forever 21 has agreed to un- Many retailers are expected to re- as a glitch, rather than the onset of a row. that requires us to have a strong fall dergo training with the Justice port weakness and a slow start to back- trend, indicating sustained strength in season. We have ammo in the gun and we Department on the antidiscrimina- to-school, as shoppers feel pinched by handbags, furniture and dresses, and a are ready to fire.” tion provision of the statute and be higher taxes, the price of fuel and the pickup in kids and activewear with the lundgren also put a positive spin on subject to monitoring of its employ- slow job market rebound. “that’s ab- onset of b-t-s. executives also indicated holiday, which has many retailers and ment eligibility verification practices solutely not the case at Macy’s,” said that impulse, Macy’s department for Wall Street analysts concerned since for a year, the agency said. lundgren, expressing confidence that older Millennial females, is gaining trac- it has six fewer days than last year. But “the ina’s antidiscrimination Macy’s would buck the industry b-t-s tion due to the addition of new brands, lundgren said he believes that could provision requires that the ina’s em- trend. “in the last couple of years, we and that women’s merchandise, in ca- work in Macy’s favor, creating more of an ployment-eligibility verification re- have done oK, actually not particularly reer, modern styles and opening price urgency among consumers to shop soon- quirements be implemented in a non- well with back-to-school.” But this sea- points, also performed well, reversing er, and helping stores to turn inventory discriminatory manner without regard son so far, lundgren said, “young busi- the negative trend in women’s for some faster and make more money. last year, to citizenship status or national origin,” nesses in particular have been quite time and fueling some optimism for fall. he noted, the holiday seemed to drag be- said Jocelyn Samuels, acting assistant strong....that doesn’t always directly tie the two new brands are Maison Jules fore the final rush came. “it just went on attorney general for the Civil rights to a strong fourth quarter, but it’s cer- and QMack; each launched in about 150 and on.” Division. — Kristi Ellis

obituary leader. he led by example.” the impres- Kenneth sion was so strong that although Gould Kolker never reported or worked with Kolker Kenneth Kolker, Former May Co. Exec again, they became friends for life. “he people, relationships, which is something was a mentor by example, to so many of By DaviD Moin people say all the time, but he lived it.” us who came out of a&S,” Gould said, cit- Kolker was born in Brooklyn on aug. ing Questrom, Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Kenneth KolKer, former top mer- 24, 1923. he attended the University of Michael Jeffries and Michael Sternberg. chant at May Department Stores Co., and Pennsylvania Wharton School, harvard a big disappointment for Kolker a mentor to many in the retail industry, Business School and the london School of was when May Co. was dismantled and died tuesday night after a short illness. economics. During World War ii, he served merged into Macy’s in 2005. he was tech- he was 89. as a lieutenant in the navy on a destroyer nically retired but served as a consultant as president of the May Merchandising in the Pacific. after the war, he joined the to May. he was most concerned about and chairman of the May international training squad program at the now-defunct May staffers and became instrumental divisions, Kolker was the architect of sev- abraham & Straus and rose to executive in getting many of them jobs at Macy’s. eral critical merchandise strategies, and vice president of merchandising, where he “after we acquired the May Company, he a close associate to the retailer’s formi- mentored many of today’s top retailers. was definitely somebody whose brain i dable, now retired, chairman and chief he later joined May Department Stores picked,” said terry J. lundgren, Macy’s executive officer David Farrell. Co., where he continued to make his mark “Ken was a very gifted merchant. he chairman, president and ceo. “he had “everybody who knew Ken was as a mentor and merchandise strategist for had a very keen business mind. i think such excellent insights on people. he was touched by him. he was just a really gen- many years before the company was taken what he did best was being an inspiration- a reservoir of knowledge. i don’t know tle, smart guy,” said former liz Claiborne over by Macy’s in 2005. Kolker conceived al leader. he touched more people’s lives anyone who knew Ken who didn’t admire executive hank Sinkel, who had a sum- and orchestrated a broadening of May’s than most of us put together. retail is a the guy. i competed with him for most of mer ritual with Kolker, sipping coffee at merchandise mix, long weighted toward tough business. Yo u get a report every day. my life but considered him a dear friend.” the beach in Southampton, n.Y., where moderate goods, to opening and better Yo u need a lot of confidence. But his big Kolker loved the arts, jazz, sports and they both have houses. prices. he is also credited with developing contribution was he gave people hope and the beaches of Fire island, Ponte vedra “Ken was truly unique,” said Michael key item strategies, aggressive promotions insight. Ken always had three or four good and Southampton. though wealthy, Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman and ceo. and launching activewear roughly 25 years ideas, for anyone, right down the organiza- Kolker never flaunted it. he lived in the “he wasn’t just a merchant. he was intel- before the industry began widely adopt- tion, from store heads to buyers to market Murray hill section of Manhattan, and lectually curious about everything, enor- ing the category. he was among the first reps. he had an open-door policy. he came in Southampton, where he had a modest mously caring and he made you think not to seize upon cashmere as a major seller out of the london School of economics. ranch house. For years, he drove a beat just about the merchandise but about life.” as well as leather furniture, both elevat- Yo u don’t get too many people in retailing up volkswagen Beetle but only took it up “he had a keen eye for what matters, ing May’s appeal. “he was instrumental in with those kind of credentials.” a notch when he purchased a 1994 nissan not only trends, but for seeing the future forging strong brand alliances, and was a Kolker became an adviser and sound- Centra. he had a keen interest in politics of how things could develop, how a busi- master of key promotions at key times on ing board to many people, whether they and policy, and engaged in spirited dis- ness could develop,” said Gilda Block, a key items. he had a balanced approach to worked for him or not, including Gould. cussions with a depth of knowledge. former sales promotion executive at a&S the business,” Sinkel said. he met Kolker in the summer of 1967, as a “We had a great conversation on and May, and a close friend. “he had big “We worked together almost 25 years at trainee at abraham & Straus, when Kolker Monday,” Sinkel said. “the big thing ideas and could push them through.” May Company,” recalled Farrell. “Much of was an executive vice president there. was hillary Clinton, Benghazi, anthony “i knew him for 48 years,” said allen May’s success belongs to Ken Kolker. he “it was a special summer squad for Weiner, J.C. Penney and Ken hicks” of Questrom, a former J.C. Penney Co. inc., was May’s secret weapon. he headed up MBas,” Gould recalled. “i was doing a Footlocker, who he also mentored. Federated Department Stores and Barneys May Merchandising starting in 1975. i orig- project in the dinette department for the Services will be held Friday at 11 a.m. new York chairman. “if you had a problem inally tried to recruit Questrom, but he was gmm, and i went to see Ken and present at Frank e. Campbell Funeral home on and brought it to him, you could trust it interested in other things, like working for him the findings. i still remember sitting 81st Street and Madison avenue. there would stay between you and him. he re- Bullock’s. But he gave me Ken’s name and in his office and talking. he never imposed are no survivors. Donations can be made ally understood that this business is about said, ‘he’s your man.’ Questrom was right. his wishes. he was never the didactic to the 92nd Street Y Jazz Program.

w15a008a.indd 8 8/14/13 8:04 PM 08142013200704 MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS Pop-up markets Fore-gettable like Northern Grade President Obama needs to retire and American Field his golf attire and update his bring indie brands weekend wardrobe. Page MW11 to a new audience. Page MW4

August 15, 2013

ACTIVISTS IN ACTION Jos. A. Bank Investor Calling for Change BeaconLight voiced concerns about company’s direction. byVICKI M. YOUNG

SHARES OF Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. fell 1 percent Wednesday after jumping 12.5 percent the day before on news that its activist investor, BeaconLight Capital, is agitating for change. BeaconLight, which holds a 1 percent stake in the company and has been a shareholder for three years, thinks the stock should be trading much higher. The stock price, on a generally down day on Wall Street, could also be a fore- bearer of financial pressures ahead for the men’s wear retailer. That’s not unlike the situation faced by J.C. Penney Co. Inc., whose own activ- ist investor, William Ackman of Pershing Square Capital Management, has been causing major headaches, lobbying this week for its chief executive officer, Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd, and board chairman Thomas Engibous to be replaced. Even after Ackman resigned from the Penney’s board on Tuesday, the retailer’s stock fell 3.7 percent because even though he’s no longer in the board room, the challenges for the retailer remain. Neal Black, Jos. A. Bank’s chief executive officer, did not respond to a request for comment. Neither the company nor its board has yet issued a response to the open letter sent by BeaconLight on Tuesday. Jos. A. Bank in June said it is working with investment banking firm Financo LLC to evaluate possible acquisitions as the company looks at its strategic op- tions to fuel growth. Jos. A. Bank’s stock closed at $44.89 Tuesday. Wall Street’s average estimate for second-quarter earnings per share is 68 cents, compared with the year-ago EPS of 83 cents. In BeaconLight’s let- ter, Ed Bosek wrote, “After extensive study and analysis, we are convinced Winning Hand that tremendous value is trapped in- side the company due to the absence of Retailers are preparing a credible capital allocation policy, an insular insider board of directors, poorly to hit the Las Vegas trade- aligned management incentives, and the show scene to discover company’s refusal to communicate with shareholders. After several unsuccessful new and noteworthy brands attempts to privately engage in construc- tive dialogue with the company and the to brighten their floors for spring. board, we believe it is necessary to pub- And the array of labels being licly voice our concerns about the com- pany’s direction.” shown at Project, MAGIC, MRket, BeaconLight said it believes the stock should be “worth $70 a share, even at a Capsule and new additions Liberty discounted multiple to its peers.” and Agenda will undoubtedly fit the Bosek also noted that while current lead- Burkman Bros.’ ership has a role in building the company bill. For more on the Vegas scene, see jacket and from a 100-store regional retailer to a 600- Esemplare’s pants, unit national one, “they have delivered in- pages MW6 to MW11. both in cotton, creasingly dismal total shareholder returns showing at project. over the last five years.”

PHOTO BY RENIE SALIBA; MODEL: JOE COLLIER AT NY MODELS; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA NY MODELS; STYLED BY RENIE SALIBA; MODEL: JOEPHOTO BY COLLIER AT {Continued on page MW4}

WWW.HASPEL.COM MW4 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 Men’s Week Pop-Up Markets Bring BeaconLight Online Brands to Life Puts Pressure byDAVID LIPKE demographic drawn to them. Gilt sponsored Northern Grade’s San Francisco edition in June, Microsoft has On Jos. A. Bank NEXT MONTH, dozens of artisanal, American-made previously sponsored Pop Up Flea and L.L. Bean brands will gather at a former power station in the Signature has signed on to sponsor the upcoming {Continued from page one} South End of Boston for the second annual install- American Field event in Boston. In addition to seeking independent directors, Bosek said ment of American Field, a two-day pop-up market. The “As a Maine-based, New England company with a the company should “immediately return all of its cash to showcase, on Sept. 28 and 29, shines a spotlight on both strong Boston-based customer presence, the American shareholders, preferably through buybacks as long as the stock emerging and established men’s brands that emphasize Field pop-up offers L.L. Bean an opportunity to show- continues to suffer from its severe discount.” craftsmanship, heritage and quality, such as Red Wing, case its over 100-year Maine manufacturing history,” James Schaye, ceo of Eaton Hudson, an asset disposition ad- Rancourt & Co., Taylor Stitch, Randolph Engineering said Gilly Hong, vice president of L.L. Bean Signature. viser to retailers, said, “Boards need to challenge management, and New England Outerwear Co. “While we have grown as a global brand with items not agree with the slick presentations by the management team.” The event is one of a swell of pop-up markets that sourced from around the world, we are still committed While it isn’t often clear when boards do or don’t make have emerged to promote brands that cater to the ongo- to made in the USA and made in Maine.” those challenges, it’s when they don’t that having a push in the ing demand for authentic and Americana-themed prod- L.L. Bean manufactures its signature rubber boots right direction from an activist investor can be a good thing. uct among a notable subset of fashion consumers. in the state as well as its boat and tote bags, backpacks, “I believe that in most cases, an activist investor is extreme- Another market, Northern Grade, which launched in leather goods and belts. “The pop up will allow us the ly astute at identifying undervalued situations in retail,” said 2010 in Minneapolis, has since expanded to Chicago, St. opportunity to showcase the talents of our over 350 Antony Karabus, president of Hilco Retail Consulting. “As a Paul, Nashville, Los Angeles and San Francisco, with an employees — craftsmen and women — working in our result, their presence can be very beneficial for shareholders, upcoming show planned for Richmond on Sept. 21 and Brunswick, Maine, factory,” added Hong. as was seen in situations like The Jones Group and Dillard’s. 22. In Baltimore, a similar show called Confirmed Stock American Field was founded by Mark Bollman, who is However, as we have seen in some high-profile recent situa- was staged last year. also the owner and founder tions, it can backfire when too-radical prescriptions for change The pioneer in this of Ball and Buck, a hunting- are forced upon a retailer. The key for success is to both iden- Northern Grade movement was New inspired line of U.S.-made tify the undervalued situation and ensure the prescription in St. Paul, Minn. York’s Pop Up Flea, which apparel and accessories, imposed by the activist is right and appropriate for the appli- was founded by Michael sold both at a Boston store cable retailer’s existing customer and does not turn off those Williams and Randy and via an e-commerce site. customers before profitable new customers are added.” Goldberg in 2008. This fall, “From our store, we know The Jones Group Inc. in June saw activist investor James it will cross the pond for the key to our success is Mitarotonda, chairman and ceo of Barington Capital Group, an edition in London on educating the customer,” he join its board. Mitarotonda has a history of pushing Warnaco Oct. 11 to 13. Williams and explained. “If you can buy Group Inc., Dillard’s Inc., Nautica, Harry Winston and others Goldberg are working with a T-shirt for $5 at H&M, we to tighten up operations. It’s now pushing for Jones to sell off The Crown Estate, manag- have to educate our consum- some smaller brands and focus on its core strengths. ers of the British sovereign’s ers about why our quality is Ratings agency Standard & Poor’s last month issued a report vast real estate holdings, to better and what they’re pay- about the impact of activism on corporate management and gov- find a suitable venue and ing for and how the made in ernance. Laurence Hazell, a governance specialist in the S&P have narrowed down the op- America piece fits into it.” Corporate Ratings group, said that how management and the tions to two potential spaces Pop-up markets are an ideal board respond to the activist proposals can provide good insight in the Saint James’s area of way to educate customers “about their qualities as leaders of the corporation,” such as Central London. first-hand, he concluded. their willingness to listen to and consider alternative perspec- The growth of these old- Founded by husband- tives and their “ability to adopt a new direction or convincingly school bazaars mirrors the and-wife Mac and Katherine articulate why their own current plans are the right ones.” vintage-inspired ethos of McMillan, Northern Grade many of the brands they has taken the most ambi- host — but there’s also a tious tack to expansion. Neckwear will modern-day causative fac- Since its first show in launch this fall. tor in the trend. Many of the Minneapolis three years participating brands sell ago, the McMillans have mostly online to a far-flung staged nine events across customer base and the mar- the country, inviting local kets offer an opportunity to food purveyors and craft promote their products in brewers to add a festive ele- person and meet custom- ment to the proceedings. ers in the flesh. In their The McMillans’ long- old-school simplicity, the markets serve as a real-world term vision is to open Northern Grade stores in New complement to the e-commerce businesses. York, Tokyo and Seoul — locations where there’s a hefty “It’s bringing to life all the stuff that people see online consumer audience receptive to the American-made these days. There’s a real interest in meeting the people story. They also believe they can eventually host up to behind these brands,” explained Williams, who sees a 100 Northern Grade events a year, in cities like Seattle, larger anthropological significance in the markets. “It Dallas, New Orleans, Miami, Aspen, Colo., Hong Kong, can be difficult for people to come together these days. Tokyo and London. Camuto Signs Neckwear License There aren’t a lot of civic things going on. My dad was in In September, Northern Grade is adding an e-com- VINCE CAMUTO continues to add to his men’s offering. the Jaycees, for example, and those kinds of things don’t merce component to its Web site, which will sell col- Randa Accessories has signed a licensing agreement with Itochu exist as much. Markets are a way for people to come to- laborations between itself and brands such as Almond Prominent USA and Vince Camuto to manufacture, market, distrib- gether. People like to be social. They want to know that Surfboards, NTandy belts and Kiriko scarves. “I would ute and sell Vince Camuto neckwear in the U.S., Canada and Mexico. the guys they’re buying jeans from are nice guys. Some like Northern Grade to be the consumer go-to for The designer, who got his start in footwear and expanded into people value that kind of transaction.” American-made goods,” said Katherine McMillan. women’s wear in 2009, jumped into men’s last fall and now offers Similarly, Chris Walbert, a cofounder of Confirmed There are serious hurdles to Northern Grade’s lofty tailored clothing, sportswear, denim, shirts and formalwear pro- Stock, likened the practice of shopping a market to at- goals. Logistics and export tariffs make it cumbersome duced by licensee Itochu. tending a concert after listening to a band’s music on- and expensive to bring American goods overseas for “We are [pleased] about adding neckwear, an important addition line — both the real-life and the online experiences pop-up markets, especially when working with small to the Vince Camuto men’s lifestyle collection,” Camuto said. “Randa reinforce each other. brands. Moreover, not every Northern Grade event has Accessories is a best-in-class partner and we believe their team can The first Pop Up Flea — which doesn’t require its been a total hit. help deliver on the brand promise of style at an exceptional value.” brands to be made in America, only well crafted — “San Francisco was a bit of a dud. Not enough peo- “We are proud to play a key role in Vince Camuto’s expansion hosted about a dozen brands and 1,500 attendees. Last ple came and it was very expensive to find a pop-up into the men’s business with the launch of Vince Camuto neckwear,” year’s edition grew to 45 brands and 10,000 attendees, space,” admitted McMillan, who said about 850 people said David Katz, senior vice president and chief marketing officer according to Williams. Celebrities like Jonah Hill and Ty attended there compared to about 3,500 at the most re- of Randa Accessories. “The line offers a fresh, modern spin on a Pennington have shopped the event. “It used to be very cent Saint Paul show. classic look that provides great value along with great style. Vince quaint compared to what it’s become,” noted Williams. Still, the overall concept has potent appeal to men, Camuto is an exciting new member in the Randa stable of brands.” Vendors last year included Levi’s Vintage Clothing, said participants. “It’s a generalization that men don’t The collection will be targeted to better department and spe- Ernest Alexander, Billy Kirk, Alexander Olch, Terrapin enjoy shopping but something like Northern Grade cialty stores as well as online sellers for fall. Prices and design aes- Stationers, Schott NYC, Filson, Tellason, Aether, makes it a fun activity for guys,” said McMillan. “They thetic have not yet been determined. The long ties will retail for Imogene + Willie and Tanner Goods. “What I’ve always can have a beer and have a conversation. You can kill $69.50 and bow ties will be $55. really liked about the Pop Up Flea is that it really is sort four hours in there.” The designs will include stripes, Art Deco geometric patterns, of the best time for you to meet in person your custom- Christian McCann has shown his Choctaw Ridge and dots and plaids in saturated colors and combinations such as boy- ers, which we don’t get to do,” said designer Alexander Left Field labels at Northern Grade in Minneapolis and senberry mixed with plum, aqua and turquoise mixed with cobalt Olch in a video about the event. “We get to shake hands.” experienced an uptick in online sales afterwards. “After and teal with brown. — JEAN E. PALMIERI The Pop Up Flea will stage its sixth New York in- the show, I probably did more business out of Minnesota stallment Dec. 6 to 8 at an undecided West Side loca- than I did out of California,” said McCann, who also tion, possibly at Drive-In Studios, where it was situated picked up retail accounts at the show. “I wouldn’t say EDITOR’S NOTE: last holiday season. it’s a huge moneymaker, after paying for the show and Major marketers have taken note of the growing pop- the hotel. But it’s about getting out there and talking to The women’s Las Vegas preview appeared in Wednesday’s paper. ularity of pop-up men’s markets — and the appealing people and gaining that first-hand experience.”

MW6 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 Men’s Week

with everything made in Italy,” explained founder Ollie Amhurst, who was at Giorgio Armani for 10 years, working his way up from a from a stockroom position to direc- tor of wholesale for the U.K. “It’s basics in Five of a Kind beautiful fabrics and then we add in some fashion pieces.” From a Portuguese tailored clothing The brand is carried by Barneys New York, Mr Porter, Tannery, Totokaelo and maker to cool Canadian backpacks, bet on East Dane, the soon-to-launch men’s site from Shopbop. The spring lineup, which will be at the this group of global brands in Las Vegas. Liberty show, encompasses linen and vis- cose blend blazers in steel blue or anthracite, BURKMAN BROS. ing units, including totes, wallets, rolling shirts with subtle military details, luxe active- The Gap’s loss was the men’s wear industry’s luggage, tech sleeves and travel accessories. wear pieces in cashmere blends, quilted cot- gain. Since exiting the retailer’s design staff “The concept is that it’s aspirational ton sweatshirts and lava prints on T-shirts and to start their own collection in 2009, Doug but with great value,” said Kellen Roland, gym shorts. Chinos are merchandised with a and Ben Burkman have carved a niche in president of The Ntwrk Agency, which turned-up hem to show off a contrasting inte- the men’s arena for guys seeking classics handles Herschel Supply’s sales in the rior binding. Harking back to its roots, there updated with custom prints and fabrics to U.S. and is showing the brand at both the are also motorcycle jackets in New Zealand deliver a decidedly casual vibe. Capsule and Agenda shows. lambskin and quilted bomber jackets. Based in Vancouver, the brand was Sold in the U.S. through the Archetype Burkman Bros.’ founded by brothers Jamie and Lyndon Showroom in New York, T-shirts are priced Cormack, who named the company after the to retail for $80, shirts for $220, pants for spring line was Tommy Bahama’s tropical neckwear. inspired by tiny town their great-grandparents settled in $220, the cashmere blend active group for Bangkok. after emigrating from Scotland. The brand $160 to $220 and leather jackets for $895 to became known for colorfully patterned men’s wear classics — “and infused those $1,500. — D.L. designs, such as its woodland camouflage into cuff links, tie bars and money clips,” she backpacks or polka dot styles. said. Genuine inlaid stones will also be used. The offerings are segmented into four Prices will range from $65 to $125 for cuff groups: Classics, Studio, Bad Hills Workshop links to $65 to $95 for tie bars. DIELMAR and the Kids collections. The Studio line is Trafalgar will also offer two new limit- Since its founding in 1965, Dielmar has more fashion-forward, with various themes ed-edition braces for holiday. The first has grown to become the market leader in men’s and collaborations each season. For spring, novelty themes woven from French silks on wear in Portugal with sales of 13.5 million the company is working with artist Kevin 200-year-old looms with patterns inspired euros, or $18 million at current exchange; Butler, who draws cute pictures of vintage by the brand’s archives. Only 222 of each a staff of 400, and the capacity to produce pattern will be produced, and they’ll be 120,000 jackets and 240,000 pants annually. signed and sold with a card. They’ll retail for Now the men’s tailored clothing brand has around $195, she said. There will also be a set its sights on the U.S. Boardwalk collection of suspenders, with a Dielmar, which will make its debut at the portion of the proceeds donated to the hur- MRket show in The Venetian, will bring a ricane-relief efforts in New Jersey. spring collection inspired by travel through The other new addition is the Tommy Bahama collection, which Tackett said is being targeted to the under-40-year-old cus- A look from tomer, a slightly younger demographic than Dielmar. the core shopper. Palm trees, floral prints, which are “trending so well today,” and other resort-themed prints will be available in tra- ditional ties as well as bow ties and pocket squares. Prices will range from $58 to $78. Marketed under the Burkman Bros. mon- Tackett said Trafalgar will be selling both iker, the collection is “a reflection of us and immediates and spring at MRket as well as the way we like to dress — our lives and our MAGIC, where pieces from the jewelry and travels,” said Ben Burkman. Tommy Bahama collections will be shown Each season, they take their inspiration at the Randa booth. “Retailers are buying from a different far-flung locale — every- more immediates in August for their holiday where from Sri Lanka and Ireland to India needs,” she said. — J.E.P. and Hawaii. “Our beginnings were in tex- tile design, so we develop our own prints A backpack from and patterns, work with weavers in the dif- Herschel Supply Co. Lot78 ferent countries and make our collection,” FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE he explained, noting that they also strive Launched with just a few leather jackets in to use “local fabrics, colors and materials” cars topped with surfboards. 2008, Lot78 has grown into a full men’s and WWD.com/ whenever possible. The Bad Hills Workshop collection offers women’s collection, with 70 styles for each menswear-news. Spring’s inspiration was Bangkok, where high-end, experimental designs with pre- gender each season. Priced and aesthetically the brothers visited the street fairs and flower mium details like Riri zippers and washed adjacent to brands like Rag & Bone and Acne, markets and absorbed what they found into Japanese denim linings. Lot78 melds a streetwear aesthetic inspired by their designs. The result is a collection that Most of the Classics line retails for its hometown of London with tailored pieces. Central America and the Panama Canal, ac- sports classic Thai imagery, including stylized $59.99 to $84.99; the Studio line is $69.99 to “It’s a city look married to luxury fabrics, cording to Pedro Pinto, international sales alligators on button-down shirts and floral $79.99, and Bad Hills is $129.99 to $274.99. manager. “Tropical forests, unstable weather patterns on swim shorts, hats and hoodies. The brand is carried in major retailers and colorful streets of a metropolitan city are In what has become the brothers’ trade- including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, A full look the background of a sophisticated collection mark, the spring line offers an array of Shopbop, J. Crew’s Crewcuts and Apple from Lot78. developed for a modern [man seeking] a ca- striped and color-blocked polos and T-shirts, stores, as well as independent retailers like sual and relaxed look [that remains] elegant printed tank tops paired with jacquard and American Rag, Need Supply and Bodega. and poised,” he said. The chromatic color French terry athletic shorts or floral embroi- — DAVID LIPKE palette starts with light neutrals and moves dered khaki shorts. Bright pops of color and toward deep blues touched with splashes of custom prints and embroideries provide a sapphire and ceramic. An array of tropical relaxed attitude that is perfect for those hot and equatorial greens paired up with berry summer nights, but also appropriate in an TRAFALGAR reds and the warm shades of exotic fruits urban setting. Prices include tanks for $80, From Tommy Bahama island-themed neck- round out the mix, Pinto added. Fabrics in- long-sleeve wovens for $180, short-sleeve wo- wear to limited-edition French silk braces, clude linen with cotton or silk, hemp mixed vens for $160, terry hoodies for $145, swim- Trafalgar will be showcasing several new with wool and pure linen jersey weaves that wear for $145 and knit shorts for $125. Jackets product categories at its booths at the trade are reminiscent of basket weaves. are the top of the line, retailing for $248. shows in Las Vegas next week. In addition to its core collection of suits The collection will be shown in the Tents at A division of Randa Accessories, the in- and sport coats, the company offers more Project and targeted to high-end department dustry’s largest men’s accessories company, formal looks such as morning jackets, as well and specialty stores in the U.S. and interna- the brand will also offer a new line of jew- as a full line of furnishings and accessories, tionally. — JEAN E. PALMIERI elry under the Trafalgar name. The jewelry Pinto said. There will also be a “weekend cot- line, which was well-received at the recently ton” collection of washed cotton sport coats. completed New York market, is designed in- Prices range from 110 to 160 euros, or house and is viewed as a necessary brand ex- $146 to $213, for jackets, and 180 to 250 HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO. tension, according to Mary Tackett, Trafalgar euros, or $240 to $333, for suits. A hip, Canadian alternative to Eastpak and president. “We saw a need in the market for In addition to its home country, Dielmar JanSport, Herschel Supply Co. specializes a great, quality jewelry line that would re- is also available throughout Europe, as in backpacks and bags in durable designs tail for under $100,” she said. The company well as in Brazil, Angola and China. Target with a fashionable bent. The assortments looked at the history of patterns used in its distribution will be high-end men’s stores are comprised of more than 720 stockkeep- braces — herringbones, paisleys and other and department stores. — J.E.P. THE HIGHLANDER

PROJECT LAS VEGAS | BOOTH #5013 NEW YORK | LOS ANGELES | BOSTON | TORONTO | TOKYO | HONG KONG | LONDON | GENEVA | DÜSSELDORF

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | VICTORINOX.COM MW8 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 Men’s Week

Ambsn’s shirt, Waimea’s T-shirt and Haggar’s pants, all in cotton.

Fifties Hawaiian prints, bandana patterns and updated camouflage designs are some of the graphic elements that define the most vibrant spring collections that will be shown at the Las Vegas trade shows next week. Botanical— ALEX BADIA Garden

PHOTOS BY RENIE SALIBA Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 MW9

Original Penguin’s shirt, Altru’s T-shirt and Haspel’s pants, all in cotton. Carrera sunglasses; Vans sneakers.

Woolrich John Rich & Bros.’ nylon jacket, Waimea’s cotton tank top and Krew’s cotton pants.

Denim & Leathers by Todd Snyder’s shirt Andrew Marc’s nylon and Ambsn’s pants, jacket, Descendant of both in cotton. Chuck Thieves cotton shirt and Originals backpack. W.R.K.’s cotton shorts. MW10 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 Men’s Week

Prps Goods & Co.’s cotton jacket K-way’s nylon jacket, Denim and Waimea’s polyester and & Leathers by Andrew spandex shorts. Carrera sunglsses. Marc’s cotton shirt and Mark McNairy New Amsterdam’s cotton pants. MPUZANO

Craft Atlantic’s jacket, The Tovar’s shirt, Vans’ T-shirt Innercity Raiders’ T-shirt and and shorts, all in cotton. Cwst’s shorts, all in cotton. Spektre sunglasses. MODEL: JOE COLLIER AT NY MODELS; GROOMING BY JENNIFER YEPEZ AT MAREK AND ASSOCIATES USING KÉRASTASE; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CA LUIS ASSISTANT: FASHION USING KÉRASTASE; AND ASSOCIATES MAREK JENNIFER YEPEZ AT NY MODELS; GROOMING BY MODEL: JOE COLLIER AT Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 2013 MW11

win two tickets, hotel and airfare A curated assortment of U.S.- to the match at the MGM Grand. based manufacturers and Made Shows and Events in Vegas in America product designed to THE FOUNDRY expose retailers to alternative PROJECT, THE TENTS@PROJECT, Convention Center, Lagoon J, K Meet and greet with boxing great Dates: Aug. 19 to 21 sourcing options. Among the PROJECT MVMNT, MAGIC MEN’S, Hours: 11 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Floyd Mayweather Jr. as he Location: Sands Expo at The companies featured are AAAA POOL TRADESHOW, ENKVEGAS An analysis of the key directions prepares for his upcoming fight Venetian/Palazzo, 201 Sands dye house, Ace Boots, Cone (WOMEN’S ONLY) as seen from London, Milan and against Canelo Alvarez on Sept. Avenue, Hall C Denim, Supima cotton, United Location: Mandalay Bay Paris and the colors, textiles and 14. A sweepstakes will be held to Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Jeans and Vanson Leathers. Convention Center, 3950 Las design direction from the most Vegas Boulevard South influential men’s designers. Hours: Aug. 19, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Man of Aug. 20 and 21, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. THREADS AND FINS THE WEEK Dates: Aug. 19 to 21 PRESIDENT OBAMA: C SOURCING at MAGIC, FN PLATFORM Location: Project at Mandalay Location: Las Vegas Convention Bay Convention Center Center, 3150 Paradise Road, Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. He needs a more We feel terrible trashing the and LVH Hotel Convention A gathering of authentic surf structured snap-back Center, 3000 Paradise Road brands, both heritage and hat since this model sits usually impeccably dressed Hours: Aug. 18, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. emerging labels including too low on his forehead Commander in Chief, but while (SOURCING at MAGIC only); Hurley, Hang Ten, Mollusk Surf and does nothing for his Aug. 19, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Shop and Paste, curated by prominent ears. on the golf course, he should Aug. 20 and 21, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. surf-brand influencer and UNIV cofounder Tim Swart and sport The athletic-inspired be wearing a more AGENDA LV commentator Sal Masekela, shades are one of the elegant, heritage Dates: Aug. 19 and 20 who has teamed up with Project few saving graces of the Location: Sands Expo at The president Tommy Fazio to de- look and appropriate for ensemble. Venetian/Palazzo, 201 Sands sign custom surfboards that the occasion. Avenue, Hall D will be for sale at The Tents@ Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Project. All proceeds will go to The oversize polo is For more information: agendashow.com the Stoked Foundation. painful. It’s slightly reminiscent of a Nineties MRKET, ACCESSORIESTHESHOW TOMMY’S EDIT street trend, but one that (WOMEN’S ONLY), STITCH Dates: Aug. 19 to 21 should be forgotten. (WOMEN’S ONLY) Location: Project at Mandalay Dates: Aug. 19 to 21 Bay Convention Center Location: Sands Expo at The Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Venetian/Palazzo, 201 Sands Curated by Project president Avenue, Halls A and B Tommy Fazio, the area will Hours: Aug. 19*, 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. showcase his top style picks of The dark brown leather *From 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. there will the spring season from vendors belt matches the be an opening-night cocktail re- showing at The Tents@Project. footwear, but it also ception for vendors and retailers. accentuates the fact Aug. 20, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. OFFICIAL PROJECT PARTY, sponsored that the shorts are Aug. 21, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. by Denim & Leathers by Andrew Marc superhigh-waisted. For more information: mrketshow. Date: Aug. 20 com; bjifashiongroup.com. Location: Marquee Nightclub Taking advantage of the at the Cosmopolitan. Special golf club’s relaxed dress Low sport socks would CAPSULE entrance on third level, bring code is one thing, but to look less geeky than these Dates: Aug. 19 and 20 Project badge for admission. wear a well-above-the- Nike crew socks that push Location: The Venetian, 3355 Las Hours: 10:00 p.m. to 4:00 a.m. knee, tight-fitting short the outfit into Fifties Vegas Boulevard South, 5th- is something completely “Pleasantville” territory. floor ballroom THE MONEY TEAM BOXING RING, different. A baggier Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. FEATURING FLOYD MAYWEATHER Bermuda khaki or a Although he’s calling out his Chicago White For more information: capsuleshow.com Dates: Aug. 19 and 20 traditional subtle plaid Sox allegiance, the traditional golf shoe Location: Mandalay Bay long pant would have been doesn’t work with the outfit. While vintage- LIBERTY FAIRS Convention Center, Project more appropriate. And the inspired, the shoes make him look even more Dates: Aug. 19 to 21 Mvmnt, second floor, adjacent high waist reminds us of like he’s at the pitch-and-putt than the regular Location: Sands Expo at The to booth 39002 mom jeans. golfer he is. He should be wearing a solid shoe. Venetian/Palazzo, 201 Sands Hours: 12:00 p.m. IMAGES JIM WATSON/AFP/GETTY PHOTO BY Avenue, Hall C Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more information: libertyfairs.com

MAGIC GOLF INVITATIONAL Date: Aug. 18 Location: Rio Secco Golf Club, 2851 Grand Hills Dr., Henderson, NV Hours: 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. MAGIC Men’s, FN Platform and USRA are hosting a day of golf at the home of Butch Harmon, the world’s number-one golf instructor. Complimentary breakfast and lunch, and cocktails served throughout the day. By invita- tion only, RSVP required.

“MOBILITY IN MENSWEAR” PRESENTATION BY DONEGER GROUP Date: Aug. 19 Location: Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Lagoon J, K Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 a.m. ■ The World at Large: Big Ideas — David Wolfe, creative director ■ The Man & His Lifestyle: Items, Fabrics and Colors — Tim Bess, fashion and trend analyst ■ The Retailer & The ANNIVERSARY Consumer: Marketing Innovation — Tom Julian, strategic business director

MEN’S EUROPEAN COLLECTIONS, SPRING 2014 BY DONEGER GROUP Location: Mandalay Bay