MATIJA HABLJAK/PIXSELL INSTAGRAM* A walk in the park May in means everyone is outside, the terraces are full, the streets turn into promenades and the parks become green oases, perfect for unwinding. We recommend Park, which has it all – trails and meadows, a zoo, ponds and the must-see Vidikovac kiosk. Enjoy the newest edition of Zagreb For You, use our tips and go for – a walk in the park.

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY MAY 2019

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr FIRST MINUTE Catch the best view of Zagreb Zagreb is hugely photoge- nic but there is one spot that downright carries the title of the best view in town. It’s a place from which poet Antun Gustav Matoš loved gazing at his city. This verdant spot is so celebrated that even the poet’s statue suggests its pur- pose – to sit and watch. So let this be your first Zagreb must- do. Find Stross, find Matoš, A GRANDE DAME GETS A CROWN see Zagreb.

Zagreb’s icon of style, elegance and glamor. With Short history those words, Hotel Esplanade was presented the of the Esplanade 2019 award for best historic hotel in Europe. WORD 1925 hotel opening Impressive architecture, a luxurious interior and 1940 Gestapo headquarters modern facilities have marked the hotel since its 1945 public kitchen Cvijet opening in 1925. This hotspot for travelers on the 1967 first casino Orient Express train has hosted the biggest celebs 1986 first bistro (Ts-vee-yet) of each era, from Lindbergh, Louis Armstrong and 1991 macrobiotic menu flower, Blume, flor, fleur, fiore Elizabeth Taylor to Beckham, Ronaldo and U2. The 1996 website Esplanade is a living piece of 20th-century history 2004 hotel renovation – with every 21st-century luxury. Bookings and 2009 terrace skating rink info @esplanade.hr 2012 first female head chef 花, 꽃, 花儿 ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE The perfect WHEN city run STAY IN THE CENTER, What is Run Croatia TRAVEL IN TIME and what projects Zagreb Time Machine are you doing in & street program is back THE ONLY CROATIAN around Zagreb? on. During the weekends, WITH TWO OSCARS has been unani- Run Croatia is an mingle in the Upper mously declared an honorary citizen of international project Town, , Zagreb. ’s movie-like life focused mainly on Tkalča street or Maksimir began in Osijek, where he was born in promoting Croatia Park to catch various 1932. As a boy, under number A3317, he and its tourism glob- reenactments of lifestyle survived both Auschwitz and Ber- ally, along with sports in the olden times. gen-Belsen concentration camps and Iva Hafner, and a healthy lifestyle. lost most of his family. In Zagreb, he got Catch the city legends in cofounder of the It draws running a Master’s degree in acting and became innovative Run period dress, the Cravat a producer with . In the late Croatia brand enthusiasts, health Regiment performing 1980s he moved to Hollywood and over (www.runcroatia.hr) clinics, education the change of the guards the next 20 years produced movies like institutions, hotels and the uplifting sounds Schindler’s List (his first Oscar), Gladiator and, more recently, employers as well. of the Strauss ensemble. (his second Oscar), Black Hawk Down, The people behind the Run Croatia name Find the full program at Hannibal, American Gangster… He has are Sven Veronek, and brother-sister duo @infozagreb.hr/zagreb- served as president of Zagreb’s annual Berislav Sokač and Iva Hafner, who back in Festival of Tolerance since 2008, and time-machine. 2015 turned the promotion of being active, gives lectures at universities in Croatia and abroad. running and living a healthy lifestyle into WAKE UP AND the Run Croatia brand. SMELL THE ROSES Could you reveal your favorite spots for Fans of flowers should running? not miss FloraArt, the For a longer session I enjoy , international garden especially early in the morning as the expo (May 13–19) at city wakes up. I usually see early-bird Bundek park and lake. gardeners from Zrinjevac on the way. I The 54th edition features love smelling the freshly mowed grass. an eclectic selection of ANJA MUTIĆ For shorter sessions I usually do circles potted flowers, decora- writes for BBC Travel, the Washington around Ribnjak Park, which I love in tive greens and seedlings Post and the New York Times. springtime when the magnolias are but there is also horti- Follow her at @everthenomad blooming with a view of the cathedral. culture artwork by local Zagreb in May is perfect for.... and international florists Walking down Dubravka’s Trail to Cmrok, on display. Enjoy Bundek Peace birds chirping above, and back for coffee itself, a 300,000 m2 of at Palainovka. As the days get warmer, landscaped parkland. out this May you can sit outside even longer and enjoy @floraart.hr ay makes me want to move. fresh sardines and gemišt MWith April showers gone (white wine and sparkling BEER AND LIVE and whiffs of summer in the air, WE LOVE water mix) at Amfora on MUSIC COMBO it makes me power-walk, run, do SPREADING Dolac. Weekend hikes up For the third year in a yoga in the parks, go forest bath- to Sljeme for bean stew row, Zagreb Beerfest ing through the woods… These THE WORD and strudel. Sunday family (May 16–19, Dr Franjo days, Zagreb makes all that easy. ABOUT lunches at the Islamic Tuđman park) is ready to Every Sunday afternoon this Center’s restaurant within delight an even bigger May (from 3–7pm), Proljeće u ZAGREB'S the with crowd of fans. The lineup Maksimiru (Spring in Maksimir) RUN-FRIENDLY a view of sports grounds. lists top Croatian bands puts on a free public get-together Ping pong and fun at Art (Urban&4, Psihomodo on the 4th and 5th lake, with SPOTS Park beneath Stross. pPop, Detour), the tap yoga, meditation, breathing, gong Where in Zagreb do you flows with 180 beers, baths and more. A perfect way to go to unwind and be barbecues are hot and throw in a spot of self-care into inspired? sizzling and the entry is your weekend. I usually relax while walk- free. Need more? Oh yes, n the last Sunday of every ing my puppy, Zulu, or running through Morcheeba is playing, too. Omonth, the Mystic Tribe Zagreb’s countless green zones. I also @zagrebbeerfest.com gathering brings people together regularly practice yoga and meditation, get on the Sava River under the Thai massages and go for coffee at Booksa HIT THE STREETS, Hendrix Bridge, with sound baths or craft beer on the Strossmayer Prome- CATCH THE FUN (gong and Tibetan bowls), acro nade with a view of the Lower Town. Croatia’s oldest street yoga, aerial silks, a picnic and festival, Cest is d’Best is drumming sessions around the back on for its 23rd edi- bonfire. ZAGREB 2.0 tion (May 29–June 2). As There are weekly 5 Rhythms usual, expect countless dance gatherings (check out the Get your Zagreb facts international perform- schedule and locations at Ples ers to loosen you up and Ritmova – Dance of the Rhythms here is no shortage of Zagreb-themed make you laugh. Catch on FB), regular Movement Medi- Tblogs and videos. But to really spark them on and around the cine sessions (look up Movement your imagination, dig into the official Flower Square, Zrinje- Medicine s Tamarom on FB) and Zagreb Vlog. Alongside Zagreb Shortcuts, vac or Stross, follow the other on-offs. there’s a brand-new series called Zagreb roving piano or check n this fast-changing global Trivia. Created and presented by the quiz into the emergency mood Iclimate, Zagreb too has turned champion Morana Zibar, this show teaches repair station – the festi- toward more alternative ways of you all the useful and quirky facts you ever val’s signature acts. More living, taking care of ourselves wanted to know about Zagreb. The tallest at #cestisdbest and being together. Change starts building, the shortest street? All there, at from within – and it spreads out. lovezagreb.hr. OFFBEAT TOURS IN AND AROUND TOWN here are many different ways of seeing a new city, some more Tunusual than others. While you can always hop on a sightseeing bus in order to check off the highlights, we’ve got you covered with a variety of more offbeat tours you can take in Zagreb.

Invisible Zagreb Into the Woods QUIZG This free city tour led by Head off the beaten path and into the former and current homeless woods with Iva Silla of Secret Zagreb. 1 The is people shows you Zagreb Explore the gorgeously verdant Medv- one of Europe’s through a different lens. ednica mountain that overlooks Zagreb oldest. When was Learn about life on the streets from the north. This walking tour along a it founded? through storytelling by Mile forest trail takes in peaceful pilgrimage a 1669 Mrvalj, a former art gallery spots from the baroque era and aban- b 1699 owner and one of the most doned WWII bunkers, and wraps up with c 1719 active members of Croatia’s lunch at a traditional mountain hut. homeless community. The www.secret-zagreb.com/into-the-woods-1 2 The Zagreb tour takes in several points funicular’s 66-meter track around the main train station. makes it Book at www.invisiblezagreb. the shortest in the world. com/reserve-a-tour; donations How many yearly more than welcome. passengers does it have? Jane’s Walk a 517,000 Catch one of 18 Jane’s Walk b 677,000 events in Zagreb scheduled c 759,000 for May. These citizen-led walking tours in hundreds of 3 Which is the smallest cities around the world en- of Zagreb’s 17 city courage people to share sto- neighborhoods? ries about a Upper Town their neigh- Street Wisdom b Lower Town borhoods, Zagreb has been part of this growing c Medveščak discover un- global movement since 2017. Led by seen aspects so-called “street wizards,” these guided Answers of their immersive urban walks use a mix of 1 a The University of Zagreb is communi- psychology, mindfulness and cognitive celebrating its 350th birthday this ties and use science to help participants reveal signs, year. walking as a way of connect- clues and answers to important life ques- 2 c The latest stats put the funicular’s yearly passenger count ing with neighbors. See the tions. The next one, guided by our own at 759,000. schedule of walks organized editor and street wizard Anja Mutić, is 3 b 37,000 people live in the Lower by the local host in Zagreb, slated for May 20. Book your spot at Town and it stretches across 3 Trešnjevka Mapping: www.streetwisdom.org/event/street- square kilometers. mapiranjetresnjevke.com wisdom-zagreb-croatia/ COOL

TURE ANDREA PISAC Global anthropologist and Zagreb Attend ZAGREB writer with a twist. Follow her at DESIGN WEEK at @travelhonestly.com ten spots around the city from May 7–12. Honestly, get The main location of Croatia’s biggest your skates on! design festival is Technical Museum id I just tell you to hurry up? Nikola Tesla. Don’t DHm. I have been drumming miss Design Night on about slow life since the dawn of May 10. Info time. I’ve marketed the Croatian @zagrebdesignweek. ‘sweetness of doing nothing’ as the com best anti-stress therapy. But now, with spring running through the ZAPRUĐE UŽIVO Zagreb system, I have a different the biggest open-air message to deliver. Move, people. neighborhood festival, am still in total accord with the is celebrating its 20th Iwise, easy-going Croatian life- birthday. Catch one style. It’s just that we’ve always met of the best live bands in the summer or for Christmas – Kawasaki3P on May 11 the times when every self-respect- and legendary Darko ing Zagreb local dials things down. Rundek & Ekipa the But just like other ancient wisdom, day after. Info the Zagreb philosophy is to move @zaprudje.hr in cycles. We ebb and flow. Gone is the deep wintertime used to build Check out an exhibition up our strength (read: to fatten up). on 1960S STYLE AND We’ve shed the blubber during the FASHION IN ZAGREB lean Lent and now we’re ready to 50 years ago, closing welcome spring. May is the perfect May 19. Miniskirts and month to move, be on the fly, run sequins at the Zagreb around, have ants in the pants. City Museum. @mgz.hr Heck – during May, it’s actually OK to embrace being restless. COURTNEY BARNETT o where should you fidget in Australian musician SZagreb? Imagine being a bee and major global and go flower smelling. Did I just indie scene star, is invent this? I think so. Go find performing in Zagreb lilacs, magnolias, chestnuts, even for the first time. early linden tree blossoms. Operate See her on May 21 in short bursts. Walk, then stop for at Culture Factory. elderflower cordial. Leave the city Courtney is promoting center. Discover Bundek, and her new album Tell Me Maksimir and bathe your senses in How You Really Feel. vivid colors and aromas. @tvornica.hr Tip: For pure nectar, visit the Botanical Garden of medicinal plants ‘Fran Kušan’ (Schrotova 39).

Join the wine feast in Međimurje hills N Međimurje locals love their wine so much ART ZAGREB is there is even a village presenting artworks by called after the pa- 90 min some 50 top Croatian tron of wine growers from Zagreb contemporary painters. – Sveti Urban. Every See and buy them from May (17–19) there is May 16–19 at Technical Urbanovo wine festival in this hilly Museum Nikola Tesla. village tucked in the northernmost #artzagreb2019 corner of Croatia. You can also do wine tasting on May 24 & 25 during the wine cellars’ open days. It’s an 80-minute drive from Zagreb so make sure you sober up before MORE INFO heading back.

Tip: Try the indigenous white wine pušipel, a perfect match to međimurska gibanica, a typical regional dessert. Between the bridges of the Sava River You don't really know Zagreb until you venture out of the center and walk along the Sava. Once the outer edge of the city, the river has always been an oasis of unspoiled nature. It still is, as the riverbed and the mounds have been kept unpaved. Cross the Sava into Novi Zagreb and you'll get a new perspective on the lives of locals. Looking for Zagreb off the beaten track? This is the path to take.

Sava River Only 60 years ago, the Sava was N the southern edge of Zagreb. But today, its banks are the locals' favorite spots for recreation and expansive Većeslav Holjevac city views. During his term as Sava Mound mayor (1952–62), Built in 1964 Holjevac built many after a disastrous public and residential flood of the Sava, buildings south of the this trail is a Sava. Today he’s magnet for known as the mayor runners, cyclists who 'took' Zagreb and casual walkers, across the river. including moms with strollers. It’s also a stunning Močvara sunset-viewing Cultural center Močvara spot. (Swamp) found home inside the former Jedinstvo factory, one of the largest in socialist Croatia. The venue still Bundek Park features socialist industrial With its two lakes, architecture and makes an walking trails and important part of Zagreb's the biggest cultural heritage. Močvara children's hosts music concerts, art playground, festivals and other Sava Bundek is one of indie events. the most beloved open-air hangouts in Zagreb.

Museum of Contemporary Art This meander-shaped The Little Cube building features Kockica building is a fine outstanding example of clean-lined, contemporary artwork socialist-functionalist by top Croatian and architecture. It was international artists. designed by Ivan Vitić in The building boasts 1963 to host the Communist 3500 m2 of the Party headquarters. Today permanent exhibition it’s home to the Croatian space and one of Ministry of Maritime Zagreb's best roof Affairs, Transport and terraces. Infrastructure and the Ministry of Tourism. Hippodrome Statue Park Built in 1950, Zagreb There are more than ten Hippodrome covers exceptional statues dotted 47 hectares, along the Sava mound trail. Some boasting outdoor are by Croatia's most renowned racetracks and an sculptors, such as The Runner by indoor riding hall. Its Marija Ujević Galetović, The Hand design is based on by Ivan Kožarić, The Frogland by the Longchamp Stjepan Gračan and The Signposts by Racecourse Zvonimir Lončarić (that curious in Paris. pair of legs).

Hendrix Bridge Since it was built in 1939, this bridge has acquired three names. On paper it’s called the Railway or the Sava Bridge Green Bridge but among The oldest bridge over the locals it’s known as the Sava, built in 1938, today Hendrix Bridge – because serves only pedestrians, an of the namesake graffiti occasional fisherman or a that keeps popping up. photographer looking for a quirky background.

THE MOST USEFUL CARD With Zagreb Card, tourists get free transport and access to six attractions, plus ticket discounts for more than 80 locations. The daily card is 98KN, a three−day card is 135KN. A ride on the funicular is included. @zagrebcard.com N ZAGREB ON WHEELS: LAST MINUTE SIT AND RIDE! Hop on a scenic tram ride If you think Zagreb is tiny, you are mingling in the center too much. Before you go, expand your Za- greb horizon. Hop on the 6 tram at Britanski Square and enjoy the ride all the way to Sopot. You’ll see the Lower Town highlights once again, but you’ll also cross the Sava River. With 200,000 active bike riders, Zagreb Welcome to New Zagreb! ranks 6th in Europe when it comes to the Now, you must come back to explore some more. number of cyclists in everyday traffic. Velika Gorica Around 600 bicycle parking lots and 300 kilometers of active trails confirm GET THE APP Zagreb’s status as a cycling metropolis 4am in this part of Europe. So it comes as no PAY surprise that a public bicycle renting AS YOU GO 7 DAYS PARTY, THEN system has won over Croatia and the region. Nextbike in Zagreb has 17 5 HRK 100 HRK BEACH: THE CLUB stations across the city so – follow their 30 MIN + 600 BONUS motto – sit and ride! nexbike.hr MIN THAT NEVER SLEEPS

Terrace for sunbathing and coffee-drinking by day, dance-till-the- morning destination by night, Aquarius Club is a cornerstone of Za- greb’s club scene. Over the last two decades it hosted the world’s most famous DJs, hip-hop stars, house attractions… Its official hours are 9pm–6am – but don’t be surprised if it stays open even longer. @aquariusklub

It’s only been two years since Zagreb’s new airport opened and it’s already the best in its class in Europe. For its first birthday it got the “most improved air- port in Europe” award and more recently, the “best in class” for airports with Share your photo #lovezagreb two to five million travelers. Also de- ind the best firsthand locals’ stories about Zagreb on the #lovezagreb clared one of the Fwebsite. Everything about Dolac Market, Maksimir Park, the Upper most beautiful in Town, parties, food and fun in Zagreb, all in one spot. Join in and share your Europe. photos @lovezagreb.hr.

In 2018, TASTE OF ZAGREB Noel, the most menu. Nine Zagreb 3.3 million trustworthy restaurants have travelers passed powered by place in the city received the through. 30 airlines Taste of Croatia for creative fine Michelin Plate fly in and out dining and seri- symbol for a well- Zagreb. Zagreb ous wine pairings. made meal from fresh Two restaurants carry ingredients. French restaurants the Bib Gourmand title guide Gault & Millau re- Published by: take the for accessible places viewers are also content 30 stupnjeva with quality dining that’s with the scene’s develop- Editors: global stage worthy of recommen- ment in Zagreb – they’ve Anja Mutić, dation. For traditional given their chef hats Andrea Pisac The prestigious restau- Croatian food, head to to 17 restaurants, with Contact: rant guide Michelin final- Tač, away from the city Bistro Apetit, Dubravkin [email protected] ly arrived to Croatia in crowds, or check out Put, Mano, Nav, Noel In partnership with 2017. In the third edition, Agava, in the heart of and Tač topping the list. Zagreb Tourist Board Zagreb also got its first touristy Tkalčićeva, with Guides in hand, and get Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. star. The honor went to a more Mediterranean to exploring! www.zagreb4you.com