Owners Manual & Suspension Setup Guide

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Owners Manual & Suspension Setup Guide Owners Manual & Suspension Setup Guide TUNED WITH PURPOSE CONTENTS Initial Setup 1 Front fork installation 2 Rear shock installation 3 Setting rider sag 3 Tuning guide 7 Compression vs. rebound damping 8 Damping adjustments 8 Location of adjusters (Specific to bike model) 9 How “clickers” work 10 Low speed vs. high speed damping 11 Congratulations! Thanks for choosing Kreft Moto’s suspension tuning High speed compression adjuster (HSC) 11 services. To get the most out of your new suspension setup, we recommend following a few basic guidelines for initial setup, fine tuning, and servicing Tuning your suspension 12 of your suspension components. This manual goes into greater detail for Tuning for speed and soil type 13 those who wish to learn more about fine tuning their Kreft suspension. Tuning chassis balance 13 Radical changes in terrain 16 Troubleshooting 17 Servicing your suspension 18 Recommended service interval & Valving updates 19 Suspension service log 20 FRONT FORK INSTALLATION 1 Insert the fork legs into the triple clamps and install each leg at the same height above the triple clamp. Use the fork height recommended by Kreft Moto for your bike (see Specifications). 2 Snug the triple clamp bolts just firmly enough to hold the fork legs in place. 3 Clean the fork lugs on the inside where they hold the axle. They should be smooth and polished with no corrosion. The same goes for the axle itself. 4 Install the front axle only with no wheel. Verify that it installs easily and will rotate freely. If it does not, try raising or lowering one fork leg by small amounts to help bring the axle into alignment. For AER48/XACT48, leave the air-leg in place and adjust the damper-leg to achieve proper alignment. 5 After the axle has been aligned, torque all triple clamp bolts to the torque INITIAL SETUP specified in your motorcycle owner’s manual. Use a torque wrench. 6 Install the front wheel. Temporarily snug the non-brake side axle clamp and tighten the axle nut to the torque recommended in your owner’s manual. 7 Loosen the non-brake side axle clamp bolts. Torque the brake side axle clamp bolts ONLY. 8 Verify that the non-brake side clamp “floats” freely back and forth on the axle. You should be able to move in 1-2mm in each direction. 9 Allow the axle clamp to find its natural centered location, then torque the non-brake size axle clamp bolts. Now you are aligned! Align the non-brake side clamp before tightening 1 2 Rear shock installation 1 Check the condition of linkage bearings or PDS heim joint. 2 Install the shock in the reverse order of removal. Check your motorcycle owner’s manual for detailed instructions. Sag measurement 3 Tighten linkage bolts and shock mount bolts to the torque specified in your motorcycle owner’s manual. Setting rider sag Rider sag is how much the rear shock compresses with a rider on board the motorcycle. Use the following procedure to measure and adjust rider sag, the rider should be in full gear when measuring sag. 1 Get a buddy to help. You can’t take an accurate sag measurement by yourself unless you use an electronic sag setting tool with a remote readout. 2 Support the bike on a stand with its wheels off the ground. The rear suspension should be fully extended. NOTE: Make sure your suspension linkage pivots and shock mounts are in good condition. If a bearing is rusty or sticky, you won’t be able to set sag accurately. 3 Using a tape measure or sag scale, measure the distance from the rear axle to a fixed point on the rear fender. Use a marker to note the spot on the fender so you can find it again. Write down the measurement, and call it MEASUREMENT A. MEASUREMENT A 3 4 04 Remove the motorcycle from the stand and place it on flat, level ground. A spot near a wall or vehicle is best so the rider can use it for balance. 05 The rider should be in full gear for the sag measurement. Have him stand on the motorcycle’s foot pegs with his arms at his side. All his weight should be directed into the footpegs. Have your helper push on the fender to compress the 06 rear suspension about 1”. Let the shock return to a neutral position with the rider holding still. Take the sag measurement, using the same points 07 used previously. Call this MEASUREMENT B. Subtract the two measurements to find rider sag. Rider Sag = Measurement A – Measurement B. 08 Compare the measured rider sag with the recommended sag value for your bike provided by Kreft Moto. If measured rider sag is less than the recommended sag, reduce shock spring preload. If measured rider sag is more than the recommended sag, increase shock spring preload. NOTE: It is easiest to change shock spring preload with the bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground. Continue measuring rider sag and changing preload until the rider sag is +/- 2mm from the recommended value. See the “Chassis Balance” section for tips on fine-tuning sag by feel. MEASUREMENT B 5 6 Compression vs. rebound damping Damping is resistance to movement. In motorcycle suspension, oil passing through valves inside the suspension converts kinetic energy (movement) into heat. This helps dissipate the force of bumps. Compression damping slows compressing motions of the fork or shock absorber. Rebound damping slows the extension of the fork or shock back to full travel. Damping adjustments Damping adjusters are also called “clickers” because of the detent mechanism that makes them turn in fixed increments. TUNING GUIDE Turn the adjuster knob or screw to make an adjustment. • Clockwise increase damping force • Counter-clockwise reduce damping force • Full clockwise fully closed (stiff) a/k/a “position zero” • Full counter-clockwise fully open (soft) To count clicks, turn the adjuster knob or screw clockwise until it lightly bottoms. The adjuster is now fully closed. This is position zero. Count the clicks as you turn the adjuster counter-clockwise to reach the desired setting. Your suspension arrived from Kreft Moto with the adjusters already set to our recommended starting position. 7 8 Location of damping adjusters How clickers work The external damping adjusters provided on modern motorcycles help fine tune COMPONENT COMPRESSION REBOUND REVALVE CONTROL the suspension for your preferences or terrain. The low-speed adjusters are WP XACT / AER48* Top of right fork leg Bottom of right Leg Bottom of right Leg often called “clickers” because of the detent mechanism that makes them move WP XPLOR* Bottom of left fork leg Top of right fork leg Top of left fork leg in defined increments with a click. The adjuster is a needle valve – essentially WP XACT PRO / Cone valve Top Bottom N/A a conical screw (needle) that partially blocks a small hole (orifice). When WP 4CS* Bottom of both fork legs Top of both fork legs N/A the adjuster is fully closed, the needle shuts off oil flow through the orifice. WP Open Cartridge Bottom of both fork legs Top of both fork legs N/A As you turn the clicker out, more oil is allowed to flow through the orifice. WP Closed Cartidge Top of both fork legs Bottom of both fork legs N/A Clickers make the entire damping curve softer or stiffer by the same amount. ALL Rear Shocks Top Bottom N/A Proportionally speaking, they have a much greater impact on low speed *Only forks setup by Kreft Moto have this adjuster configuration. suspension movements because the total damping force is small at low speeds. For example, a two-pound change in damping force created by the adjuster is more significant when total damping force is five pounds rather than fifty pounds. That’s why clickers are also known as low-speed adjusters. No matter where your adjusters are set, eventually the fluid pressure overcomes the flow capacity of the orifice. The building fluid pressure forces the valving shims away from the piston face and allows oil to flow through. The adjusters have no effect on the shim stack itself. 9 10 Low speed vs. high speed damping Fine tuning your suspension With a few exceptions, suspension damping is speed dependent. That First thing’s first – go ride your bike. Give yourself time to get used to the new means the amount of damping force varies in proportion to how fast the suspension. suspension is moving. The forward speed of the bike doesn’t matter After the initial adjustment period, you may wish to spend some time fine tuning – it’s the speed the wheels are moving up and down that counts. the suspension to your specific preferences. This is entirely optional. Kreft Moto delivers the suspension to you with our best estimate of the perfect setup Tuners often refer to “low speed” damping or “high speed” damping for you, and many riders never deviate from those settings. to differentiate among broad categories of suspension movements. If you do choose to fine tune on your own, it’s best to conduct testing on a quiet Brake dive is an example of a low speed event. Weight is transferred section of trail or track you know well. Pick a place that is representative of forward under braking and forces the front suspension down. where you ride most often, and someplace you can ride the same short section over and over again in rapid succession. Try two laps on a track, or about a Skimming whoops is a high speed event.
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