University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America
Winter 2010 Textile Society of America Newsletter 22:1 — Winter 2010 Textile Society of America
Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons
Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 22:1 — Winter 2010" (2010). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 57. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/57
This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. T VOLUME 22 NUMBER 1 WINTER, 2010 S A
Symposium Planners Announce Native American Program Focus
CONTENTS by Wendy Weiss
1 Symposium Planners Announce Native American Program EBRASKA IS HOME TO FOUR Judi M. gaiashkibos has an Indian rights and to develop Focus federally recognized exceptional record of outreach solutions to problems common 2 Omaha Textile Exhibitions NIndian tribes today; the and support for Nebraskan to all Nebraska Indians.” She is 3 From the President original inhabitants of the area Native Americans. Her involve- a board member of CEDARS included at least ten tribes. This ment in this effort is tireless Youth Services and Interchurch 4 TSA News rich history is a central focus of and widespread. Judi earned Ministries/Grants to American 6 TSA Member News the 2010 TSA 12th Biennial a Bachelor of Arts degree in Indians in Nebraska (GAIN), 9 Book Reviews Symposium, “Textiles and Human Relations in 2000, and in and is also a board member of Settlement: From Plains Space to 2007 a Masters in Management Hopa Mountain, an organization 11 Tour Reviews Cyber Space” in Lincoln, NE. Our with a Leadership Emphasis from dedicated to assisting leaders 12 Omaha Textile Exhibitions, plenary session speaker on Sat. Doane College. An enrolled in tribal and rural communities Contined Oct. 9 will be Judi M. gaiashkibos, member of the Ponca Tribe, throughout the Great Plains. Judi 13 Textile News past president of the Governors’ Judi has served as the Executive serves on several state advisory 14 Events Calendar Interstate Indian Council and Director of the Nebraska boards, including the Nebraska current director of the Nebraska Commission on Indian Affairs Minority Justice Committee, the 16 Publication News Commission on Indian Affairs. since 1995. The Commission’s P-16 Initiative, and the Nebraska Exhibitions, tours, site seminars, constitutional mission is “to do Partners in Prevention coalition, THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA, beadwork instruction, and Pow all things which it may deter- and was also recently appointed INC. PROVIDES AN INTERNATIONAL Wow dance and regalia will mine to enhance the cause of to the University of Nebraska’s FORUM FOR THE EXCHANGE round out this part of the program. President’s Advisory Council. AND DISSEMINATION OF INFORMATION ABOUT TEXTILES WORLDWIDE, FROM ARTISTIC, CULTURAL, ECONOMIC, HISTORIC, POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND TECHNICAL PERSPECTIVES.
Left, These and many other examples of contemporary Navajo weaving will be featured in “A Turning Point: When Modern Navajo Weaving Became Art,” opening at the Nebraska State Museum on the UNL campus in October. Right, Detail from “The Navajo,” an 18-in-1 sampler-style wall hanging woven by Sarah Paul Begay (Navajo), 1993, 8’ x 5’, tapestry weave, wool, 32 wefts/inch. TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Textiles and Settlement: OFFICERS
PRESIDENT From Plains Space to Cyber Space Patricia Hickman TEL 845/947-8735 Textile Society of America ~ 12th Biennial Symposium ~ Lincoln, Nebraska ~ October 6 - 9, 2010 [email protected] from p. 1 collections. A special exhibition A bus tour will venture VICE PRESIDENT Ruth Scheuing Her outreach is nation- curated by Ann Hedlund, titled north to visit the Winnebago and TEL 604/254-6322 wide. In 2006 Judi was elected “A Turning Point: When Modern Omaha Reservations in northeast [email protected] President of the Governors’ Navajo Weaving Became Art,” Nebraska. Judi gaiashkibos will TREASURER Interstate Indian Council and will be featured at the Cooper accompany the tour. Learn more Mary Masilamani continues to serve on the board TEL/FAX 973/538-2705 Gallery in Morrill Hall, part of about the Winnebago tribe at [email protected] of this national organization with the University of Nebraska State http://winnebagotribe.com/ RECORDING SECRETARY the mission of improving and Museum. Site seminars at both and the Omaha tribe at Roxane Shaughnessy promoting cooperation between venues, featuring rare and beau- http://www.indianaffairs.state. TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 [email protected] state and tribal governments. tiful artifacts of the traditional ne.us/content/omaha.pdf. She is an outstanding individual cultures of the Plains Indians, will These and other special DIRECTOR OF INTERNAL RELATIONS Mary Anne Jordan dedicated to improving the lives be filled on a first-come, first- events featuring Native American TEL 785/864-3919 of others; her altruistic lifestyle served basis. Plains culture are in the works [email protected] is evident in her hard work and At the Nebraska History for the Symposium program. DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIONS active involvement in non-profit Museum, site-seminar leaders Janice Lessman-Moss services. Her perseverance is TEL 330/672-2158 FAX 330/672-4729 will detail a current project in Omaha Textile [email protected] admirable and can provide inspi- which a multitude of objects ration for future developments in Exhibitions PAST PRESIDENT have been cleaned, conserved, Carol Bier Native American human relations. catalogued, re-housed with In addition to numerous exhibi- TEL 510/849-2478 Judi’s accomplishments have custom-prepared supports, and tion venues in Lincoln, several [email protected] not gone unnoticed; she is well photographed in preparation for galleries in nearby Omaha will DIRECTORS AT-LARGE established and acknowledged making the collection accessible exhibit textiles during the TSA Joanne B. Eicher by the community. The Douglas for on-line research, as well as Symposium. Two Omaha TEL 651/645-2914 County Historical Society pre- [email protected] on-site work. This site includes exhibits are highlighted here. sented Judi with the 2009 Door the permanent display, “The First Barbara Shapiro Keeper Award in recognition “Carved Board Clamp TEL 415/882-7401 Nebraskans,” which interprets [email protected] of opening new doorways in 10,000 years of American Indian Resist Dyeing: Historical Fran Dorsey the spirit of unity, equality, and Perspective and Contemporary life on the Plains, showcasing TEL 902/494-8208 FAX 902/425-2420 understanding. housing, foodways, clothing, and Application” at UNO Art [email protected] Currently Judi is co-teach- social customs of the tribes of Gallery, Omaha, NE. Carved- Sumru Belger Krody ing “Native Daughters” at the Nebraska. The exhibit features board clamp resist dyeing is an TEL 202/667-0441 ext. 37 University of Nebraska School ancient process originating in FAX 202/483-0994 prehistoric and historic tools, pot- [email protected] of Journalism, a yearlong course China and Japan in the 7-8th tery, historic clothing, weapons, Matilda McQuaid that examines the role Native jewelry, musical instruments, and centuries. This dye technique TEL 212/849-8451 American women have played a Pawnee earthlodge, circa 1865. involves sandwiching cloth [email protected] in traditional culture’s past, pres- Hands-on stations include bison between pairs of mirror-image Elena Phipps ent and future. Students have fur and bones, pottery tools and boards carved with pattern. TEL 212/349-4485 [email protected] interviewed Lakota teachers, shards, and reproduction trade Clamping and dyeing registers TASK REPRESENTATIVES medicine women, political lead- goods from the 1700s. to p. 12 ers, elders, environmentalists and TSA WEBSITE Susan Powers, [email protected] women’s rights advocates. Plans are underway for TSA LISTSERVE Laura Strand, [email protected] exhibitions, site seminars, and tours before, during and after TSA NEWSLETTER the 2010 TSA Symposium. Karen Searle, [email protected] Both the University of Nebraska 2009 SHEP AWARD CHAIR Barbara Sloan, [email protected] State Museum on campus and the Nebraska History Museum TSA WEBSITE INFORMATION COORDINATOR Amy Scarborough, in downtown Lincoln house [email protected] important Native American TSA SYMPOSIUM 2010 CO-CHAIRS Diane Vigna, [email protected] Above, Logo for 12th Biennial TSA Symposium, Lincoln, NE, designed by Ann Svenson Perlman. Wendy Weiss, [email protected] Right: indigo clamp-board resist, shibori- SYMPOSIUM PROCEEDINGS EDITOR Ann Svenson Perlman, patterned cloth. [email protected] 2 TSA NEWSLETTER Quilts from Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh. Each Symposium site is selected for its own unique F T flavor and sense of place. During our meeting we heard progress P reports and discussed pre- and post-Symposium tours, the keynote address and plenary sessions, and reviewed plans for site seminars, an International S I WRITE, THERE IS STILL Textile Marketplace, a gallery A evidence of fall in New hop, a book fair, and pre-confer- York. The leaves have been spec- ence workshops. Co-organiz- tacular, changing color, as cool ers Wendy Weiss and Diane nights and the hint of winter Vigna and the local Symposium come. I am enjoying the drama Committee are taking full advan- of this seasonal change. tage of the distinct offerings of Lincoln. I left Nebraska with Symposium 2010 great anticipation of the richness TSA Board in the Duncan garden. Front row, Barbara Shapiro, Janice The TSA Board met in mid that awaits us next fall. Early reg- Lessman-Moss, Pat Hickman, Ruth Scheuing, Elena Phipps. Back row, Wendy October in Lincoln, NE, imagin- istration for the Symposium will Weiss, Mary Ann Jordan, Diane Vigna, Sumru Krody, Carol Bier, Roxane ing together our next gathering open in February, 2010. I look Shaughnessy, Matilda McQuaid, Joanne Eicher, Karen Searle. there October 6-9, 2010, for our forward to seeing you there. 12th Biennial Symposium. In Please see other articles in 1, 2010 for the 2009 award to Other international TSA addition to visiting several muse- this Newsletter which provide Barbara Sloan, Chair. study tours are being planned, ums and galleries where exhibi- more details about the Symposium 2009 R.L. Shep Book Award with the next tour scheduled for tions devoted to textiles will be plans. Elena Phipps’ article on Committee July, 2010 to Oaxaca, Mexico featured, we had the opportu- p. 3 acknowledges the generous [email protected]. with Jim and Veralee Bassler. nity to tour Karen and Robert grant TSA has received from the Check the TSA website for Duncan’s residence and sculpture Reed Foundation in support of a Archives details regarding this trip. garden and their extraordinary Natural Dye Workshop and While in Lincoln, the TSA Board member Mary 1,300-piece contemporary art col- a Symposium panel with Archive Committee, chaired Masilamani has organized a lection. Touring this collection will renowned dye specialists. by Carol Bier, reviewed the textile study tour from New be one of many highlights avail- The Symposium Program materials that comprise the TSA York City to Paterson, NJ, to visit able to Symposium participants. Committee has reviewed all Archives, which are permanently “Silk City” on Apr. 17. This tour The International Quilt paper abstracts submitted for the housed at the Love Library on is limited to 40 participants on a Study Center and Museum is 12th Biennial Symposium. They the University of Nebraska- first-come, first-served basis. One remarkably designed with subtle, are organizing sessions based on Lincoln campus. Mary Ellen TSA scholarship is available for thoughtful architectural referenc- the very strong submissions Ducey, archivist/librarian at UNL, this tour. Please see the article on es to quilts inside the building, as that were received. By our next met with the Board and is pro- p. 4 about this day-long bus trip. well as in its outdoor plantings of Board meeting in Vancouver, viding guidance on the contents Registration is currently open native prairie grasses. The Center BC, Mar. 26-28, the Symposium of the archives that document with a deadline of Mar. 31. The will provide a welcoming venue planners will be finalizing all TSA’s growth and development. registration form is available on for our opening reception, along aspects of our gathering next the TSA website. with a major exhibition of Ralli October in Lincoln. Study Tours http://www.textilesociety.org/ Mary Anne Jordan reported events_tours.htm TSA Headquarters R.L. Shep Book Award on the successful TSA-sponsored Finances Charlotte Cosby, Manager Among other awards at the study tour to Uzbekistan, which TSA National Office Symposium Banquet, Melinda she led Sept. 21-Oct. 6, 2009. The Board voted to work with TSA Member Services Watt and Andrew Morrall will The 13 participants on the tour Christine Weaver as our new PO Box 193 be formally presented with the were immersed in the fabric and accountant. She comes highly Middletown, DE 19709 R.L. Shep Book Award for their textiles of Uzbekistan. Each of recommended, and we welcome TEL 302/378-9636 book, English Embroidery from the TSA’s study tours expands our this transition. FAX 302/378-9637 Metropolitan Museum 1500-1700: international network of col- [email protected] ‘Twixt Art and Nature, selected leagues. We are hoping that two Listserv as the best ethnographic textile specialists from Central Asia can I urge all members to join the http://www.textilesociety.org book of 2008. Please send your be part of a panel at the 2010 TSA Listserv. See p. 11 for your source for membership Symposium, sharing their knowl- instructions. Laura Strand forms, study tour information, written nominations by March and the latest news. edge and experience. has served us well as our Task to p. 4
WINTER 2010 3 from p. 3 Representative managing the TSA Listserv, and is ready to step down. The Listserv Coordinator TSA Position remains open. Please check the TSA website for a N description of this volunteer position. Letters of application and resumes should be sent to the National Office Manager, Charlotte Cosby, P.O. Box 193, Visit Paterson, New Middletown, DE 19709. Jersey’s Silk City
Nominations Sought Day-long Study Tour TSA is soliciting nominations Saturday, April 17, 2010 for open TSA Board positions Left, Great Falls of the Passaic River, the original power source for industrial between now and Mar. 1. We UST A SHORT DRIVE FROM Paterson. Right, Paterson Silk Machinery Exchange building in the historic district, located a few steps from the Great Falls. Photos: M.P. Masilamani. thank you, our members, for JNew York City, Paterson, NJ, was once known as “Silk City” your consideration, participation, Middle Eastern shops that line location by 6:00 pm. Members and was the leading producer and suggestions in our electoral Paterson’s Main Street, we will also have the option of joining of silk fabric in the US from the process. See the Call on p. 15. end the day on docent-led tours the bus at 9:00 am in Paterson. 19th century until well into the of two historic homes connected The trip costs $125 per person Membership 20th century. On Saturday, April with the silk industry. Lambert for TSA members, and $150 17th, join fellow TSA members Thank you to all members who Castle, the home of wealthy silk for non-members. This includes for a day-long bus trip from mid- participated in the TSA Member- manufacturer Catholina Lambert, lunch, admissions, tips and a town Manhattan to Paterson, led ship survey. The Membership is tucked into the side of Garrett $30.00 donation to TSA. To by Mary Masilamani. Committee has studied the survey Mountain on the south side of register for this trip, please visit After an orientation to results carefully and summarized the city. Home to the Passaic http://www.textilesociety.org/ the newly designated Paterson them to the Board. We are giving County Historical Society, the events_tours.htm National Historic Park area, serious consideration to your rec- Castle tells the story of the lavish TSA is also offering a schol- we will visit the spectacular ommendations, particularly those life of a leading textile manufac- arship for one member to par- Great Falls of the Passaic River, for publications and for improving turer. In addition to Lambert’s ticipate in this tour. To apply for the power source that made the website. luxurious home, we will see this scholarship, please visit the Paterson a leading east-coast Thank you for your past sup- more examples of Paterson’s website above to download an industrial center starting shortly port and active membership in beautiful fabrics. In contrast, application form. after the Revolutionary War. TSA. Please encourage your col- the American Labor Museum We will tour the vicinity of the leagues to join TSA. We remain in the modest Botto House falls with industrial archaeolo- TSA Receives Grant committed to excellence in the shows the life of an immigrant gist Gianfranco Archimede, who fields of textile studies and wel- Italian silk worker family who for Symposium 2010 will explain the raceways and come your participation in that played a leading role in the great Programs other features that transferred effort through your membership Paterson Silk Strike of 1913. This power from the Passaic River to and support of a broad range of landmark strike was led by the Dyes and Colors Programs the many factories of the city. scholarships and awards. Most Industrial Workers of the World at TSA 2010 Symposium Giacomo Destafano, Director of of all, we look forward to seeing at their height of membership. the Paterson Museum, will tell us HE EED OUNDATION you in Lincoln, NE at our next On the way back to Manhattan R F , about the city’s textile industry Symposium. we will sample pastries from TNew York, has awarded TSA and will guide us through the Fattal’s Bakery that the New York a generous grant to fund two – Pat Hickman, TSA President production of the jacquard silks Times recently called “hard to programs during the upcoming that made Paterson famous. resist.” 2010 TSA Symposium in The museum collection includes This trip will leave promptly Lincoln, NE, related to the sub- looms and other equipment at 8:30 am from the front of the ject of dyes and colors: a pre- used to produce Paterson silks, main branch of the New York conference workshop on Natural along with many examples of Public Library’s Research Division Dyes, and a two-part panel ses- the narrow ribbons and broad on Fifth Avenue between 40th sion entitled “Dyes and Colors: yard goods that gave the city the and 42nd Streets (in front of Materials and Culture.” name “the Lyons of America.” the Library Lions and close to The workshop will be led by After a vegetarian box lunch Grand Central Station, the Port Dominique Cardon and Elena of Middle Eastern specialties pro- Authority Bus Station, and Penn Phipps. Cardon, a reknowned vided by Fattal’s Syrian Bakery, a Station), and return to the same French scholar, is the author of mainstay of the thriving row of numerous publications on
4 TSA NEWSLETTER the subject of dyes, dye history Further information about The recipient of the first student and young profession- and technology, including her the workshop and panel will Founding Presidents Award als in the textile field to attend most recent book, Natural Dyes, be posted, along with all was honored at TSA’s 11th the biennial Symposium. This Sources, Tradition, Technology and Symposium registration infor- Biennial Symposium in 2008. scholarship covers Symposium Science (Archetype Publications, mation, on the TSA website in The winning paper, “Perfumed attendance for up to five indi- London, 2007), a monumen- February 2010. Textiles,” was presented by Katia viduals. Any TSA member who tal and comprehensive study. www.textilesociety.org/ Johansen, textile conservator is currently a student in a textile- Phipps (Director-at-Large, TSA) symposia_about.htm and costume curator at the Royal related field, has graduated in has worked with dyes and dye Danish Collections at Rosenborg a textile-related field within the analysis for many years at the Selection Process Castle in Denmark. The 2010 past three years, or has been in Metropolitan Museum of Art. winner(s) will be honored at the their first job in the textile field Her forthcoming publication, Underway for Symposium Banquet in October. for less than three years, is eli- Cochineal: The Art History of a Founding Presidents This award is named in gible to apply for the scholarship. Color (Metropolitan Museum and Awards honor of the five founding The Application deadline is May Yale University Press) is expected presidents of TSA: Peggy Gilfoy 15. For more information and an in Jan. 2010. HE FOUNDING PRESIDENTS (deceased), Milton Sonday, application form, please check During the conference, the TAward program was estab- Lotus Stack, Mattiebelle the TSA website: two-part panel session will bring lished to recognize excellence in Gittinger, and Louise W. http://textilesociety.org/awards_ together an unprecedented num- the field of textile studies and to Mackie. The award is funded by scholarship.htm ber of international dye special- ensure that the finest new work generous donations from TSA ists, historians and master dyers will be represented at TSA’s members. Donations for the Note to TSA to Lincoln to present a range biennial Symposia. The award Founding Presidents Award can of topics. The presenters will recognizes superior scholarship be mailed to: Membership Survey include Sachio Yoshioka, master by providing significant financial Textile Society of America Participants dyer from Japan; Feng Zhao, support to one or more pre- P.O. Box 193 textile scholar from China; Bina senters at each Symposium. All Middletown, DE 19709 Dear Colleagues, Rao, textile artist and producer proposals for papers are eligible This is just a brief note to thank from India; Jenny Balfour-Paul, for the award and are reviewed Student/New the more than 300 of you who indigo scholar from England; and ranked by the Symposium Professional participated in our Membership Eric Chávez Santiago and Hector co-chairs. Finalists for the 2010 Survey late last spring. Your Manuel Meneses Lozano from Symposium have already been Scholarship input/responses provided infor- the Museo Textil, Oaxaca, recommended to the Awards mation and insights into the HE STUDENT/NEW PROFESSIONAL Mexico; and Susan Heald and Committee, which is composed aspects of our organization that Scholarship (SNPS) was Christina Cole, conservators and of the two Symposium Co- T you value and suggested ways established by the Board of scientists from the US. chairs, the current and previous that it might evolve and improve. Directors of the Textile Society The program will be an TSA Past Presidents, and the Many of you confirmed the im- of America in 2006 as an initia- exciting and engaging exploration current TSA Vice-President. portance of creating opportunities tive to support and encourage of dyes in history, science and to p. 6 practice, and we are most grate- ful to The Reed Foundation for Call for Nominations for Textile Society of America Board Positions supporting this effort. The Nominations and Elections Committee solicits nominations between now and March 1, 2010. Board positions open for this Election include the Vice President/ President-elect, Secretary, Director of External Relations and three Directors at-Large. TSA’s Nominations and Elections Committee consists of three Board members and two members at-large. We seek a Board with geographic and professional diversity, representing a broad range of membership interests. The Nominations and Elections Committee will determine a slate of candidates to propose for election in May, 2010; we solicit your suggestions for candidates now. The Nominations and Elections Committee will then determine how many candidates will run; write-in names will also be accepted on individual ballots. Please use the Textile Society of America Board of Directors Form to Nominate a candidate. The form is available to download at http:// www.textilesociety.org. Submit your nomination by email to Charlotte Cosby, Manager of the TSA National Office ([email protected]), or mail your nomination to: TSA Member Services, P.O. Box 193, Middletown, DE 19709; FAX 302-378-9637. Dominique Cardon dyeing with fresh We thank you, our Members, for your consideration, participation, and suggestions in leaves of Japanese indigo from her our electoral process. dye garden.
WINTER 2010 5 from p. 5 ground, making the ancient floor for networking and learning plan apparent. through travel, workshops, and The tour seemed a well- a more comprehensive website. rounded experience of the local The current Board is working architecture and museums and hard to assure that your sugges- handicrafts, combined with more tions and concerns are addressed, intensive textile study experi- and that our organization ences. Thirteen tour participants remains vital to its constituency. came from the US (CA, CO, FL, IL, KS, MD, NJ, NY, TX), Sincerely, Canada, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. Janice Lessman-Moss Special thanks to the group External Relations Director participants. It was a great group! Also special thanks to the art- Nominations Sought ists and artisans who spent time for R.L. Shep Book sharing their work, their studios The TSA tour group in Samarkand. Below left: Silk ikat preparation in and their time. Thank you also Awards, 2009 Uzbekistan. Photos by Mary Anne Jordan. to Azat Fazilov, our Uzbekistan guide and extraordinarily patient OMINATIONS FOR THE BEST We visited museums, historic Uzbekistan Study and thoughtful travel companion. Nbook on ethnographic Tour Report architectural sites, private artists’ textiles published in 2009 are studios, focusing on pottery and – Mary Anne Jordan now being accepted. The award, HE TEXTILE STUDY TOUR TO on the ikat process from silk pro- endowed by R.L. Shep in 2000, TUzbekistan started in duction and dyeing to weaving; encourages the study and under- Tashkent. After a day of touring we also saw rug weaving, block standing of ethnic textile tradi- the city and recovering from jet printing, papermaking, knitting, TSA tions by recognizing and reward- lag, we drove to the east over card weaving (jiyak), embroidery, ing exceptional scholarship in the the Tien Shan mountains to and natural dyeing. We visited M field. The award also enhances the Fergana Valley, where we visited craft centers where we observed position of the Textile Society of the city and market of Fergana, manuscript painting, lacquer box N America as a thriving profession- the textile and silk production painting, and wood carving. We al organization serving many dis- towns of Kokand and Margilon, shopped in the local bazaars, ciplines. This year Barbara Belle and Uzbekistan’s oldest extant where interesting textiles of all Member News and Sloan is Chair of the committee market, in Urgut. The market in sorts abound. Textiles in the Announcements that will review and select books; Urgut was especially interesting marketplaces included everyday Jill D’Alessandro and Kate Irvin items like clothing, and high-qual- for textiles, and the experience Mary Dusenbury writes, “I’ve also serve on the committee. ity local textile arts such as ikat- of bargaining with merchants just returned from a second trip Nominations should include woven fabric, garments, knitted there was both exciting and to the Peruvian highlands hosted title, author, publisher and date shawls, embroidery (suzani), etc. overwhelming by Nilda Callañaupa and the of publication. Visit the TSA web- We visited craft madrassas We visited a silk production Center for Traditional Textiles, site to download a Shep Award (old madrassas converted to factory and watched each step in Cusco (CTTC), hosts of the first nomination form. Send your small craft stores) and the ancient the process of ikat weaving, from TSA study tour in 2003. It was nominations by March 15 to: trading domes in Bukhara. At a bag filled with silk cocoons, wonderful to see the superb Barbara Belle Sloan museums of applied arts in to the finished, bright and bold textiles now being produced in Center for the Study of Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, ikat patterns that are famous in several of the original villages in Regional Dress we saw prime examples of Central Asia. the CTTC association, and the Fowler Museum at UCLA antique suzani, as well as old After flying back to our inclusion of several new villages. 1586 Fowler Building weaving tools, skull caps, and home base in Tashkent, we A major change from 2003 is Los Angeles, CA 90095-1549 spectacular ikat and/or embroi- ventured west to the ancient silk that many of the villages are now or email: [email protected]. dered robes. We toured signifi- road trading centers using natural dyes almost exclu- cant architectural sites (mosques, of Samarkand and sively. It was interesting to see madrassasi, mausoleums, and Bukhara. Along the the use of plants unfamiliar to necropoli) in all cities visited. way we stopped to European and East Asian dyeing We visited an archeological visit a master potter traditions. site in Samarkand and were and suzani maker in CTTC is planning an innova- allowed to walk in the ruins that Guijduvan, and the tive and ambitious project for were literally covered with old ruins of an 11th-cen- next fall. It has planned and pottery shards, where an occasion- tury Caravan sarai, or is hosting a gathering of indig- al wall would emerge from the roadside stop along enous weavers of the Americas the silk route. in Cusco, Oct. 11-15, right after
6 TSA NEWSLETTER Members Honored Member Exhibitions
Chris Martens received a Susan Taber Avila will be research grant from the Intern- featured in the Robert Hillestad ational Quilt Study Center at the Textiles Gallery at the University University of Nebraska-Lincoln of Nebraska-Lincoln, Mar. 1-26. to study and document Central Avila’s exhibition, “Oh Naturale,” Asian and Turkish quilts. presents a body of work inspired by nature and the organization of Jacqueline Field received the nature by humans. Digitally print- 2008 James Phinney Baxter ed imagery and machine stitching Award for the best article in create large format textile struc- Maine History, the quarterly tures that explore the relation- journal published by the Maine ship between nature and artifice. Historical Society in cooperation Avila uses a dissolvable substrate Ngosham, kira, woman’s dress detail, with the University of Maine to recycle fragments of otherwise silk and cotton thinkhab; dress fas- History Department. A continu- discarded fabrics, giving new life tener; coin silver coma, Bhutan, from ation of her silk research, the to these scraps within a stitched Tribal Spirit’s traveling exhibit. article, “From Agriculture to organization. from Nutt. (African Americans Industry: Silk Production and http://textilegallery.unl.edu/ did not receive birth certificates Manufacture in Maine 1800- http://www.suta.com/ 1930,” presents new material on until 1870.) I am Nutt’s great- great grandson by his wife. Sam “Ablaze,” rust-dyed fabric work by the state’s antebellum sericulture, Stephen Beal describes his Regina Benson. Turner and I consider each other and on early 20th-century silk recent installation, “Fontleroy cousins because we share a six- use in Maine cotton mills. (Vol. Plantation,” which will be featured the TSA Symposium in Lincoln. teenth of our blood from Nutt.” 44, No. 1, Oct. 2008, pp. 19-49.) in the April/May 2010 issue of The event is open to all, and the http://www.stephenbeal.com organizers are hoping to have Fiberarts. He writes, “The work consists of three needlepoint pan- a good representation of indig- Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada Regina Benson presents her els: Panel 1, 20” x 15”; Panels 2 enous weavers and interested has just been named a “2010 new rusted and discharged and 3 are 32” square. The panels observers from North America. Distinguished Educator Honoree” textile installations at a solo are bordered by 66 prayer flags, Weavers from all over South by the James Renwick Alliance, show, “Informed Dichotomy,” 4” x 5”, one for each of planta- America are already on the an organization that assists Jan. 14-Mar. 26, at the Wright tion owner Rittenhouse Nutt’s docket. The conference will be the Renwick Gallery of the Art Museum, Beloit College, 66 slaves. The work is based on surrounded by exhibitions, work- Smithsonian American Art Beloit, WI. During this exhibit, an inventory of Nutt’s posses- shops, tours, and a marketplace. Museum and is dedicated to Regina’s environmental instal- sions at the time of his death The event will be tri-lingual in advancing scholarship on con- lation “Western Rain” will also in 1862, found in the Hinds Quechua, Spanish and English, temporary American craft. She hang in the foyer of Beloit County, MS, courthouse by the with simultaneous translation. joins the distinguished company College’s new Science Building Reverend Samuel Turner, Jr., of For more information on the of former awardees, includ- in recognition of the coopera- Memphis, when he served as a Encuentro de Tejedores de las ing: Ken Ferguson, Wayne tive effort for Benson’s exhibit Tennessee circuit court judge. A Americas, see the website: Higby, Don Reitz, Jacqueline between the college’s art and great-great grandson of Nutt http://www.textilescusco.org Rice and Willliam Daley for science departments. For more through union with an unknown ceramics; Harvey Littleton, Lino information on this exhibit, email slave, Rev. Turner immediately After 33 years at the Metropolitan Tagliapetra and William Carlson [email protected]. noted in the inventory the iden- Museum of Art, Elena Phipps for glass; Fred Fenster, Arline Benson’s two new art cloths, tity of his great-grandmother will be retiring from her Fisch, and Sharon Church for “Io Rising” and “Giza,” are tour- (Frances, 18 yrs, $600), the only position as Senior Museum jewelry/metal; Gerhardt Knodel ing museums and art centers in written documentation of his Conservator. Her forthcoming and Cynthia Schira for fiber, Australia through Spring 2011 family’s oral tradition of descent work, Cochineal: The Art History Rosanne Somerson for furniture/ in “Art Cloth: Engaging New of a Color, is to be published as wood, and Stuart Kestenbaum, Visions.” The exhibit includes the an MMA Bulletin in February. She Director of Haystack. works of 20 international fiber plans to continue to pursue her http://www.jra.org/ artists and is curated by Marie- research and publications on http://www.shibori.org Therese Wisniowski. textile materials and techniques, Benson is one of five US Andean culture and other sub- fiber artists invited to exhibit at jects, and will continue her affili- the “13th International Textile ation with the Met as a Senior Triennial” in Lodz, Poland, May Museum Scholar. Her primary Stephen Beal’s needlepoint 10-Oct. 31. She created a new email is [email protected]. installation, “Fontleroy Plantation.” to p. 8
WINTER 2010 7 by master Bhutanese weaver Soft” at Denton Arts Council, Ann Marie Moeller gave the Leki Wangmo. Over 700 people Denton, TX, Feb. 5-Apr. 1. She lecture “Obi Origami: Textile attended the opening, includ- will teach summer workshops Textures and the Aesthetics of ing Jow Yai, the last surviving in sculptural knitting at Penland Japanese Kimono,” at The Textile member of the Royal Chiang School of Crafts, Penland, NC, Museum, Washington, DC, in Mai family; representatives of and the Split Rock Arts Program, Nov. 2009. the US Embassy; the French St. Paul, MN. Ambassador to Thailand; and Dr. Bobbie Sumberg, Santa Fe, Smitthi Siribhadra, lead curator Carol Westfall’s work, “Knit, NM, gave a talk entitled “When of H.M. Queen Sirikit’s Textile Knot, Net” is in the group show the Nomads Settled: The Institute Project in Bangkok. “Knitted, Knotted, Netted” at the Development of Navajo Weaving The Chiang Mai exhibition was Hunterdon Museum of Art, in the Southwest United States” reviewed in FiberArts, Apr/May Clinton, NJ, curated by Hildreth to the Friends of the Institute, ’09, and in Arts of Asia, Nov/Dec York. Minneapolis Institute of Arts in ’08. Bommer is now negotiating Jan. 2009. “Art/Life,” sculptural felt by Jorie Member Lectures Johnson. a US venue. For further informa- tion, email [email protected]. and Workshops Member Study from p. 7 http://www.tribalspirit.com and Travel dimensional, discharged and Virginia Davis will teach a painted triptych, “Ablaze III” (64” A series of exhibitions by Jorie workshop on ikat at Indigo Artes Dr. Patricia Crews, Willa h x 115” w x 16” d), especially Johnson (Boston/Kyoto) Textiles in Antigua, Guatemala, Cather Professor of Textiles and for this triennial. To see more of appeared across Japan as the Feb. 28-Mar. 9. The workshop Director of the International her work, visit: temperatures dropped and the concludes with a brief trip to Lake Quilt Study Center & Museum http://www.reginabenson.com/ season for wrapping in wool Atitlan before returning to Antigua (IQSC), along with Carolyn advanced. Her felted works for Holy Week festivities. Ducey, IQSC Curator of Louise Lemieux Berubé par- ranged from “Gypsy Shawls” of ihttp://ndigoartestextiles.com/ Collections, and Marin Hanson, ticipated in the exhibition “Plein silk, cotton, rayon, and merino IQSC Curator of Exhibitions, les Bras: Arm Embellishments” wool, to the highly color-blended at the Montreal Centre of Karakul wool carpet series, “View TSA members– Contemporary Textiles, Nov. 11- from a Train Window.” Venues Dec. 18, 2009. include Gallery Nokiha, Your assistance and your books http://www.textiles-mtl.com Tokushima (Shikoku Island), Nov. are needed at the Symposium! 14-23, 2009; Art Life Mitsuhashi, Jay Bommer, owner of Tribal Kyoto, Dec. 8-20, 2009; Ecru + HE TSA 2010 SYMPOSIUM COMMITTEE plans to have a Spirit, concluded the second HM Gallery, Ginza, Tokyo, Jan. vendor table with good quality textile and textile-related showing of the traveling exhibit 16-24, 2010. T books for sale, as we believe that these books deserve “Bhutanese Textiles: Weaving Johnson participated in the from the Heart.” Bommer Cooper-Hewitt, National Design increased visibility, recognition, and promotion. A local teamed with photojournalist Museum show “Fashioning Felt,” bookseller will order books of potential interest to attendees Torie Olson, contributing editor Mar.-Sept. 2009, which travels and staff a vendor table. Among the books that will be avail- of Wild Fibers magazine, for this to the San Francisco Museum of able for purchase are the R.L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book win- exhibition featuring Bommer’s Craft & Design Oct. 22, 2010- ners, as well as books written by TSA members. Please con- Bhutanese textiles and objects Feb. 20, 2011. She will lead tact the Symposium Book Fair Co-Chairs with citations and Olson’s photos of Bhutan. workshops in the US, Germany, for books you have published or to offer suggestions for The original exhibition was held and Switzerland, Jul.-Sept. 2010, additional titles we might sell at the Symposium. Email at the Asian Cultural Center, including the Split Rock Arts this information to Mary Cassner at [email protected] and Brattleboro, VT, in August 2007. Program at the University of MN Joy Panigabutra-Roberts at [email protected]. The next venue was in and at other venues, where she We will work with the bookseller to get your books on Chiang Mai, Thailand, at the Bank will introduce her “Feltmaker’s the table. You are likely aware of TSA’s 2008 survey of textile of Thailand’s Textile and Money Bag of Tricks.” Visit her website authors, readers, and book publishers, funded by the Coby Museum, Oct. ’08-Jan. ’09. This for upcoming events and an intro- Foundation. In this survey, 37% of TSA members indicated was the first time that the Textile duction to the art of feltmaking. that they use 50 or more textile or textile-related books each and Money Museum utilized a http://www.JoiRae.com year, with many accessing books from their personal collec- foreign exhibition, and also the first time that Bhutanese textiles Michael Rhode’s vessels can be tions. In her executive summary of the survey results, Desi were featured in a Thai museum. seen at Angels Gate Cultural Center, Koslin notes that “members of TSA and its multiple sister The full exhibition shown in San Pedro, CA, Jan. 17-Mar. 8. organizations are passionate, knowledgeable, appreciative of Thailand displayed 194 textiles, http://www.angelsgateart.org/ publications of superior quality in content and illustrations.” objects, and photographs, and Additional survey findings can be found on the TSA website. Adrienne Sloane’s work is included weaving demonstrations included in “Materials Hard and
8 TSA NEWSLETTER traveled to India Oct. 21-Nov. 4, The exhibition catalog, Lia After a brief introduction, The first step of this object- 2009, to further their research Cook: Faces and Mazes, edited the book is organized by date based research, the cataloging on quiltmaking traditions of by Wendy Weiss with essays and includes illustrations of project, began in 2002 with South Asia and to acquire by Christin J. Mamiya, Judith children, followed by a brief the development of a database selected pieces for an upcoming Leemann and Wendy Weiss, was description of their clothing. designed specifically to catego- exhibition at the Quilt Center released in Sept. 2009. Culled While some descriptions mention rize and organize this collection. entitled “South Asian Seams: from a recent exhibition at the the use of textiles, most fail to With funding from the Getty Quilts from India, Pakistan and Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery, use the fashionable vocabulary Foundation, each quilt was Bangladesh,” which will open University of Nebraska-Lincoln, associated with dress for each cataloged and photographed. May 15, 2010. it is fully illustrated with color period; for example, a mid-16th Physical inspection and examina- The research team met with images of 25 works, with details. century drawing of a child who tion of each quilt in this volume collectors and dealers in New 60 pages, ISBN 978 0-9748295- resembles a young Henry VIII added “in depth technical analy- Delhi, Jaipur, Bhuj, Ahmedabad, 5-2. Cost: (includes US shipping does not mention that the boy is ses” with the goal of providing and Mumbai. The collectors were & handling) $15; (with interna- wearing a codpiece. a “fuller picture of [each] quilt’s from established families in each tional shipping & handling) $20. Children’s dress is an area history and its maker’s possible city, and had been collecting tex- Download catalog order form at: of fashion history that is much in motivations and working meth- tiles of India for 30 to 50 years. http://textilegallery.unl.edu/ need of good primary research, ods” (Hanson and Crews, ix.) Their knowledge and personal Gallery_Publications.html but Peacock’s review of second- As the title implies, this collections were impressive. They The exhibit travels to the ary sources (many of which are volume covers American quilts held pieces that rivaled examples Gregg Museum of Art & Design over 50 years old) and replica- dating approximately from the shown in the museums. The at North Carolina State tion of historic paintings such as Civil War to World War II, information, photo documenta- University, Jan. 21–May 15; a 17th-century portrait of the but leaves information about tion, and textiles acquired on this and to the Textile Museum of Infanta Maria Theresa (which he Amish, Mennonite and African trip will immeasurably enrich the Canada, Toronto, ON, Apr. calls “6-year old princess”) does American quilts to a future “South Asian Seams” exhibition, 7–Sept. 6. not fill this need. volume. Although there are clear which will be on view when http://www.ncsu.edu/gregg While the book serves as and understandable reasons, TSA meets in Lincoln, NE, for its http://www.textilemuseum.ca a basic overview of children’s based upon the Collections’ 2010 Biennial Symposium. fashionable silhouette throughout categorical approaches, for these history, it includes very little con- exceptions, one could make a Member Publications tent of use to the serious scholar case that the inclusion of these of textile and costume history. groups of quilts could have pro- Textiles: Collection of the Museum vided a broader context in which of International Folk Art, written – Emily Banis to study the others. by Bobbie Sumberg, MOIFA B Regardless, the volume Curator of Textiles and Costume, is extraordinary. It provides a and published by Gibbs Smith, R American Quilts in the general overview of the history was released in Dec. 2009. The Modern Age, 1870-1940: The and socio-economic realities of exhibit “Material World: Textiles International Quilt Study the period. Specifics, such as and Dress from the Collection,” Center Collections the influences of trade, tech- featuring a selection of pieces Children’s Costume: Marin F. Hanson and Patricia nology, fashion, materials, art illustrated in the book, opened The Complete Historical Cox Crews, eds. movements, and mass media—in at the Museum of International Sourcebook 2009: University of Nebraska those days publications such as Folk Art on Dec. 20, 2009. Press, Lincoln and London magazines—provide the back- http://www.moifa.org/ John Peacock 496 pp., 812 color photographs ground and context of the vari- exhibitions/publications.html London: Thames & Hudson, 2009 ous quilting styles, palettes, and ISBN 978-0-5005-1488-7 ISBN 978-0-8032-2054-6 techniques. Hypotheses about The Denver Art Museum’s HIS IS THE FIRST IN A SERIES OF why certain patterns were made Mayer Center for Pre-Columbian OHN PEACOCK’S LATEST BOOK volumes that will compre- by hand versus machine, or with & Spanish Colonial Art has Jprovides an elemental overview T hensively catalog and docu- fabrics cut in particular ways, go a announced the release of of children’s dress from antiquity to ment the 2,300-plus quilts in long way to explaining each style. Tiwanaku: Papers from the 2005 the present. In the first paragraph the University of Nebraska’s The text is peppered with Mayer Center Symposium, edited of the introduction he explains International Quilt Study Center. surprising information that by Margaret Young-Sanchez. that this book is not geared toward According to the preface, this is only such an in-depth study of http://mayercenter. scholars, but is rather meant as a “one of the most important and material culture can afford. For denverartmuseum.org/ resource for the “designer, student, collector and non-specialist enthu- largest publicly owned quilt col- example, the possibly precon- siast.” However, this book is best lections in the world.” Twenty- ceived notion that quilts were suited for non-specialists, and most three countries are represented made from leftover or scrap others would likely prefer a more in this collection of traditional material prior to the Civil War scholarly source. and contemporary art quilts. is dispelled. It appears, in fact, to p. 10
WINTER 2010 9 from p. 9 material culture of the period is a condensed catalogue entry Textile Production in between the Civil War and with general and repeat mea- that quilting was then practiced Pre-Roman Italy by the more affluent who could World War II. surements given in centimeters. Margarita Gleba afford to purchase fabrics It would have been useful to – Mona Berman Ancient Textiles Series, Vol. 4 specifically for such a task, while include inch equivalents for the the practice of quilting became American or British examples. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2008 more democratized after the The book ends with a brief ISBN 978-1-84217-330-5 Twentieth-Century Fabrics: Civil War. technical glossary, biographical 269 pages, 120 black-and-white European and American illustrations (maps, diagrams, The introduction to the book information on the designers Designers and Manufacturers drawings, photos) by editor and IQSC Curator of and manufacturers referred to Doretta Davanzo Poli in the text, and a chronological Exhibitions Marin F. Hanson HIS BOOK HAS BROAD APPEAL, bibliography from 1911 to the provides an excellent and 2007: Skira, Milan, Italy as it covers the textile evi- present, which lists mostly Italian T detailed foundation for the 320 pp., $90. dence in archaeology and art sources. chapters that follow. Each chap- from the Bronze Age to the HERE ARE CULTURAL Doretta Davanzo Poli, a ter focuses on a specific quilt Hellenistic period in the northern differences in subject presen- Venetian, was trained as an category: block, log cabin, crazy T Mediterranean, with a focus on tation, as well as in an author’s archivist and teaches textile his- quilts, allover pattern and kits, as the Italian peninsula, including personal approach. Doretta tory at the University of Venice. well as one-of-a-kind and niche the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. Davanzo Poli’s exhaustive This training and experience quilts. Each chapter features The non-specialist will marvel research and 30-year teaching are intrinsic to the presentation between 7 and 17 quilts typical at the many proofs that fabric- experience provides an example of the book’s contents. In the of the style under discussion, making predates other cultural of this. Her book, Tessuti del late 1970s she worked as cura- complete with photographs, and manifestations, such as pottery Novecento: Designer e manifat- tor of the Palazzo Grassi Italian is followed by a gallery of the and metallurgy. Scholars of art ture d’Europa e d’America, which Textile Documentation Center remaining quilts not specifically and literature of the period will was translated into English in Venice. She has written and discussed in the body of the find resonances in the textile as Twentieth-century Fabrics: curated over 70 exhibitions on chapter. All quilts are thoroughly survivals, and spinners, dyers, European and American Designers fashion, lace, and textiles. Her documented as to style, varia- and weavers will deepen their and Manufacturers, is a com- 1980s international exhibition, tion, where and when made, understanding of reciprocities in pendium written in the Italian “Crafts of the Venetian Fashion materials, size, and dates. their respective crafts across the style. In fact, on the internet an Industry–1200 to 1800,” spon- Some chapters are authored millennia. Those in the increas- Italian bookseller lists the book sored by the Venetian Brenta by IQSC staff members and fel- ingly popular field of archaeo- as Atlante dei tessuti del Novecento. Region Shoe Manufacturers, was lows, including Carolyn Ducey, logical textiles, and familiar with Europa e America. In other words, a major event. Her most current Curator of Collections; Jonathan the several recent publications as a visual atlas which would Gregory, Graduate Curatorial work is on Mariano Fortuny. in this field, will find summaries be useful and pleasurable for Assistant-Exhibitions; Merikay A personal closing note: Over and pertinent updates and reas- students, designers, and the Waldvogel, IQSC fellow and a 30-year period, I co-authored, sessments on the earliest fibers, general public. And perhaps this scholar; and collector Jonathan with the architectural historian, fabrics, and methods of textile is the most appropriate inter- Holstein, who contributed many Giovanni Fanelli, three books production. pretation for this work. “Lost in works to the collection. Other on modern textiles published in Now active in research and Translation”–Sofia Coppola was contributors, all textile scholars, Italian which were never trans- responsible for the publica- certainly right! authors, and quilt historians, lated into English (my mother tions of the Centre for Textile The book is a sampling of including Barbara Brackman, tongue). Doretta Davanzo Poli Research at the University of 20th-century textiles consid- Laurel Horton, Virginia Gunn, dedicated this English edition of Copenhagen, multilingual ered in various media. It begins and crazy-quilt expert Beverly Twentieth-Century Fabrics to me! archaeologist and author with a concise 30-page review Gordon, Professor of Textile – Rosalia Bonito Fanelli Margarita Gleba has an academic of 20th-century textile history and Apparel Design at the background from the US (PhD according to each country’s his- University of Wisconsin-Madison, and MA degrees from Bryn torical relevance. Eight pages are brought their expertise to the Mawr College), and excavation dedicated to Italy, partly due to appropriate chapters. experiences in Italy’s Pre-Roman the author’s personal experience This extraordinary group sites, as well as in Turkey and there. Another emphasis is on of scholars, including editor Scythian Kurhan projects in the women in the textile arts. Patricia Crews, the Center’s Ukraine. This large-format book has Director, has created a scholarly In several useful charts, the over 250 pages of full-size and volume that will certainly be finds from the Italian excavations detail color illustrations. Hence, regarded as an invaluable and list fiber, weave, yarn twist, and it is a good design resource. For welcomed research document dimensions. The fabrics used in each textile illustrated (many on quilts, and, more generally, items of clothing such as mantles from private collections), there valuable research on American and leggings are predominantly
10 TSA NEWSLETTER carried out in plain weave and of the Incas that packed in visits be offered again. If you missed 2/2 plain, diamond and chev- to the CTTC and six affiliated this one, keep your eyes open ron twills, mostly in balanced weaving associations in outlying for announcements of the next. construction. Some were excep- T villages (some very remote); to When you go, I can guarantee it tionally fine, such as a woolen museums, textile collections, and will be an experience far beyond tabby with around 40 warps and R historical sites in the cities; and your highest expectations. wefts per centimeter. Ancient to astounding archaeological sites http://www.textilescusco.org Tarentum appears to have been in the Sacred Valley, including – Penny Drooker an early center for textiles, gold Machu Picchu; hikes along the thread production, and purple Inca Trail and elsewhere in the dyeing. Andean Textile rugged, beautiful Andean land- The rich context presented Study Tour scape; and many opportunities in this book encompasses the to observe and learn traditional transition of Pre-Roman Italy November, 2009 spinning, weaving, braiding, and JOIN THE from an “egalitarian to an aristo- knitting techniques from the HERE WERE TWELVE LUCKY TSA LISTSERV cratic community.” Throughout Tparticipants in this year’s skilled artisans associated with the period, women were largely two-week Andean Textile Study the CTTC. for lively discussions responsible for fabric produc- Tour led by Nilda Callañaupa That would have been more on textile topics. tion, and tall looms known from Alvarez, Director of the Center than enough to delight every To subscribe, depictions in carved wood were for Traditional Textiles of Cusco, one of us, but in addition, our send an email message to used in the making of high-status, Peru, along with Mary Frame, extraordinary leaders went out [email protected]. seamless ceremonial mantles, of their way to arrange special renowned specialist in ancient Leave the subject almost three meters wide, with visits and experiences for par- Andean art and textiles, Dr. line blank. tablet-woven borders. We learn ticipants with particular interests, Christine Franquemont, anthro- In the body of the of spindle whorls and spools plus surprises and unexpected pologist and ethnobotanist, and message write: with incised–and sometimes the trip organizer, Betty Doerr, treats for us all. We were par- subscribe tsalist painted–decoration, and bronze long associated with the CTTC. ticularly touched by the gener- your email address. clasps for tablet weaving that We came from Europe, Asia, osity and warmth with which Within the day, you will serve to anchor the body-ten- and North America, with wide- we were welcomed into the sioned warp and keep the web ranging experience and interests community weaving centers by begin receiving email. level. Such embellished textile in weaving, spinning, knitting, their members, who are reviv- tools and devices, including the ing and extending traditional lace making, archaeological and MANAGE THE odd needle of gold, were found historical textile research, Incan textile designs and techniques. ISTSERV in votive deposits dedicated to and pre-Incan archaeology, See Nilda’s book, Weaving in TSA L the goddesses Athena/Minerva Spanish colonial history, pres- the Peruvian Highlands: Dreaming and Hera/Juno, whose sanctuar- Patterns, Weaving Memories, pub- TSA seeks a volunteer ent-day Peruvian life and culture, Listserv Manager. ies also show the presence of women’s issues, farming, food, lished by Interweave Press, for Send letter of interest weaving workshops. photography, medicine, hiking, more on their textile traditions and resume to the – Désirée Koslin and more. and current work. We were attracted by a CTTC-sponsored tours have TSA Office, planned itinerary to Lima, been offered a number of times PO Box 193 Cusco, and the Sacred Valley in the past, and undoubtedly will Middletown, DE 19709 TEL 302/378-9636 FAX 302/378-9637 EMAIL [email protected]
Far left: Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez with weavers in Accha Alta showing a man’s knit chullo (hat) embellished with beadwork. Men’s and women’s garment styles are unique to their home villages. Left: Tie-dyed warp textile on loom. At one time, this man was the only person in his village of Sallac who knew this technique, but through his teaching it has been revived. Photos by Penny Drooker.
WINTER 2010 11 Textiles and Settlement:
From Plains Space to Cyber Space Textile Society of America ~ 12th Biennial Symposium ~ Lincoln, Nebraska ~ October 6 - 9, 2010
from p. 2 This show, curated by Jay designs or techniques are shared, Omaha Creative Institute offers the carved patterns on the cloth. Rich, will include historical exam- or where textures and pattern creative opportunities within the The process was used for quick ples, vintage carved boards, and are duplicated in creative, unex- community, believing that cre- production of yardage necessary contemporary process examples. pected ways. ative problem solving in diverse for theater costumes, to replicate Artists using this ancient tech- Historically, guilds provided groups will bring more solutions more complex labor-intensive nique in a contemporary way organized, structured means to the table. These basics are all patterns, and for the delicate will share their work in the form to learn and perfect a craft. “in house” at the Hot Shops, and plant dye, safflower. of wearables, wall pieces, sculp- Apprentices studied with masters the reason it’s called “Hot.” Early descriptions do not ture and works on paper. All and picked up the necessary Omaha Weavers and distinguish between carved-board the current influences in dyeing, skills through observation. Special Spinners Guild members Agneta resist and itajime, the more famil- such as multiple dye processes, skills were revealed and passed Gaines, Sara Innes, Mary Jetton, iar clamped-board resist done discharge, and overdyeing, are along. Often the guilds were Gail Ray, and Janine Sandstedt without patterned boards. The combined with this technique to located on the edges of towns: have been working on creating elegance of itajime, whose name create complex contemporary weavers and carpenters were textures and weave structures. combines the words for wood patterning. noisy; glass and ceramics artists’ Mary Zicafoose is creating an board (ita) sandwich, and tighten Artists from the US will studios produced heat; natural ikat-wrapped glass sculpture with (jime), is usually found in the deli- include Elin Noble, Ana Lisa dyers’ studios were smelly. The a companion woven ikat. Layna cacy and art of the folds prior to Hedstrom, Karen Urbanek, guild structure preserved impor- Bentley is quilting with ceramic clamping, and the finesse of the Barbara Shapiro, Lucy Arai, John tant proprietary secrets of the tiles. The lampwork, fusing, and dye penetration. The early term Marshall, Andrew Adams, and individual trades. bead artists, including Margie kyokechi, literally clamp (kyo) and Jay Rich. They will be joined by There is plenty of informa- Shanahan, Gerry Klein, Tanya dyeing (kechi), gives us a clue Barbara Rogers of Australia, Lia tion about interactions between Maguire, and others, have been to the importance of the clamp Fleming of Belgium, and others. guilds, where a skill is shared or experimenting with woven glass itself. While the boards are signif- a similar technique is done with structures, inclusions of woven “Textiles, Glass, Clay, Wood icant to the patterning, the clamp a different medium–this is the metal in glass, and transfer of and Metal: The Interface” provides the strength and sup- interface where one craft meets textures. Dan Toberer is eagerly at Hot Shops Art Center, Omaha, port that creates the resist force the other. Early baskets were at work on transferring textile NE during October. This show blocking any dye penetration. coated with clay to hold water. texture and pattern to clay. Jay of contemporary works expands This strong resist force allows the Embroidery designs appear on Rich, inspired by the Japanese the interaction between textiles, elaborate, fine detail of the carv- ceramics painted with glazes. master Kaei Hayakawa, has glass, clay, wood, and metal. The ing to be recorded as a design on Textile textures are recorded been experimenting with shibori works show how one medium the cloth. in primitive pottery, either as a textures transferred to clay and influences the other, where design element, or because the glass. Barbara Shapiro is col- textile was used in the pottery laborating with a woodworker production. and supplementing his work with The Hot Shops Art Center basketry techniques. Catharine in Omaha provides a unique Ellis is creating woven shibori opportunity to explore all the patterns for transfer to glass. possibilities of these interfaces. Adrienne Sloane is experiment- Ed Fennell is a glass artist and ing with adding her wire knitting teacher with a wealth of techni- to glass media, both blown and cal knowledge, which he readily fused. Dan Adams is transfer- shares. Tim Barry is a ceramics ring lace patterns to ceramic artist and teacher who enjoys tiles. Other textile techniques as participating in projects that pro- diverse as macramé and tatting mote art and the interaction of will be included as well. There creative people. Les Bruning is a are no limits to creative problem metal artist and teacher equally solving. curious about how media inter- – Jay Rich act and influence each other. The Child’s kimono and detail, patterned with clamp-board resist dyeing.
12 TSA NEWSLETTER Art; “Perspectives: Art, Craft, teacher, group, school or individ- Design and the Studio Quilt, uals can be involved. To partici- 2010,” through May 9 at IQSC pate, register on Dream Rocket’s T in Lincoln, NE; “ATB8,” the 8th website by Feb. 1. Sponsors Biennial of American Tapestry, are also being sought. Keep N Sep. 20-Nov. 15 at Nebraska up with the project’s progress Wesleyan College; and “Fiberart through Dream Rocket’s website, International 2011,” Aug. 6-22, Facebook, and Twitter pages. 2011 in Pittsburgh, PA. http://thedreamrocket.com Students examine a textile from the Solo artist exhibitions sup- Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection Quilt Museum ported in part by Friends grants at the University of Wisconsin- Rugmark Name Receives Green Award include “Sheila Hicks: Fifty Years,” Madison. Nov. 10, 2010-Feb. 2011 at Change HE INTERNATIONAL QUILT Addison Gallery, Andover, MA, HLATC Online HE RUGMARK ORGANIZATION TStudy Center and Museum and traveling to several venues MAGES AND CATALOGING was founded in 1994 as a received its first anniversary gift during 2011; “Warren Seelig: T information for approximately coalition of nongovernmental in the form of the official award- Textile Per Se” at Maryland I 8,000 objects in the Helen organizations, businesses, govern- ing of the US Green Building Institute College of Art through Louise Allen Textile Collection ment entities, and multilateral Council’s LEED® Silver rating Mar. 14; “Pamela Becker: Fiber at the University of Wisconsin- groups like UNICEF, working for its environmentally sustain- Art Retrospective,” Oct. 3, Madison are now available to end child labor in the rug able building. LEED (Leadership 2010-Jan. 9, 2011 at Hunterdon through a searchable public industry. The organization will in Energy and Environmental Art Museum, Clinton, NJ; and database. continue to certify and sell rugs Design) is a third-party certifica- “Poetic License: The Art of http://textilecollection.wisc.edu/ produced only by adult workers tion program and the nationally Joan Schulze,“ Feb. 16- May 9 digital_collection.html under the name GoodWeave. accepted benchmark for the at San Jose Museum of Quilts The new website displays GoodWeave’s mission has design, construction and opera- & Textiles. FFA’s annual grant featured textiles with articles expanded to include provid- tion of high-performance green application deadline is July 1. about the collection. An ing educational opportunities buildings. The award is based FFA will sponsor a tour to “Inspiration” section includes to children in South Asia. The on points earned for satisfying Poland, May 5-19 to visit sev- exhibitions and exhibition GoodWeave program has freed specific green building criteria. eral cities, including the Lödz archives. Information on applying more than 3,600 children from Major areas of achievement Tapestry Triennale. for HLATC’s Summer Curatorial weaving looms, providing each for the quilt museum were site Internship is also provided. with the educational and other selection and preparation, energy Berg Fashion Library opportunities needed to embark performance, recycled content, on a new path in life. In addition and indoor environmental qual- World’s Largest Quilt- ERG PUBLISHERS AND THE to child rescue and rehabilitation, ity. The museum also celebrated BVictoria and Albert Museum Ever! GoodWeave programs facilitate a successful first year, which announce the launching in May, the prevention of child labor included the welcoming of nearly ENNIFER MARSH, PROFESSOR AT 2010 of a new partnership and the healthy development of 30,000 visitors from all 50 states the University of Alabama in which will make 1600 images J weaving communities. and more than 25 countries. Huntsville, is directing a monu- from the V&A fashion collec- In order to earn the mental project to “wrap” the tion available through the Berg GoodWeave label, rug exporters 37-story Saturn V Moon Rocket Friends of Fiber Art Fashion Library. and importers must be licensed replica at the US Space & Rocket http://www.bergpublishers.com/ under its certification program International Center in Huntsville, AL in BergFashionLibrary/ and sign a legally binding con- May, with possibly the world’s FA’S NEW WEBSITE, The V&A images will be tract to not employ workers largest collaborative quilt cover http://friendsoffiberart.org indexed, along with other con- under the age of 14, to allow F (over 32,000 sq. ft.). The Dream lists member achievements, tent including books and jour- random inspections, and to Rocket team is collecting 8,000 programs and events, and tracks nals, according to an extensive endeavor to pay fair wages to handmade panels from students, contemporary art textiles classification system specially cre- adult workers. For more informa- teachers, and individuals from purchased for museum collections. ated for the Berg Fashion Library. tion on GoodWeave’s programs, more than 100 countries. The FFA announced its 2009 This is the first portal to provide or to make a donation, visit: panels represent each partici- grants in support of projects that access to interdisciplinary and http://www.goodweave.org/ pant’s or group’s dream for a bet- highlight contemporary fiber art. integrated book and journal con- ter future in the areas of Science, These include the “13th tent, with comprehensive cover- Community, Health, Technology, Art Quilt Symposium International Triennial of age of dress and fashion around the world. The service will be Space, Conservation and Peace. Tapestry,“ May 10-Oct. 31 in TUDIO ART QUILTS ASSOCIATES, Marsh says, “Our objective is to Lödz, Poland; “Quilt Visions available by annual subscription SAQA, is hosting a one-day inspire people through art that a S 2010,” Oct. 24, 2010-Feb. 20, to institutions worldwide. Symposium on April17, ”Building better future demands education 2011 at Oceanside Museum of and collaboration.” Any student, to p. 16
WINTER 2010 13 Exhibitions E United States CALIFORNIA C De Young Museum, San Francisco. To Jun. 6: “Amish Abstractions.” http://www.famsf.org/deyoung Below is a brief listing of some Lacis Museum of Lace & upcoming Textile-related events. See Textiles, Berkeley. To Feb. 1: the TSA website or follow individual “Bobbin Lace.” Opens Apr. 3: links for detailed information about “Night and Day: the World of each event. the Twenties.” Novelty apron, 1950s-early 1960s, ATHM collection. Home-sewn, http://www.lacismuseum.org cotton, nylon, hand painting and appliqué, with a mildly risqué Conferences & depiction of a 1950s woman. LA County Museum of Art. Symposia Fashion: The Mary Baskett Peabody Essex Museum, To May 1: “Early Andean Collection,” and “Fabrics Salem. To Feb. 7, 2010: “Rare Textiles from the Permanent May 25-30: COSTUME SOCIETY OF of Feathers and Steel: The Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Collection.” AMERICA 36TH ANNUAL SYMPOSIUM, Innovation of Nuno.” Iris Apfel.” http://www.lacma.org Kansas City, MO. http://www.textilemuseum.org http://www.pem.org http://www. Pacific Asia Museum, costumesocietyamerica.com/ Pasadena. To Feb. 8: “Fashioning FLORIDA MINNESOTA Domesticity, Weaving Desire: Ruth Funk Center for Textile Textile Center of Minnesota, Jun. 18-19: DUBLIN SEMINAR Visions of the Filipina.” Arts, Florida Institute of Minneapolis. To Feb. 20: “A FOR NEW ENGLAND FOLKLIFE. http://www.pacificasiamuseum.org Technology. Jan. 30-Apr. 24: Common Thread.” Mar. 5- Apr. [email protected] “Speaking with Thread: The 17: “Metaphoric Fibers,” curated Mingei International Museum, Narrative of Textiles.” by Adrienne Sloane and Karen Jul 18-25: CONVERGENCE 2010: San Diego. To Mar. 10: “Fisch http://textiles.fit.edu/ Searle. “New Visions: Ancient Paths,” Out of Water: Sea Creatures of http://www.textilecentermn.org at Albuquerque Convention Arline Fisch.” IOWA Center, Albuquerque, NM, spon- http:www.mingei.org Vesterheim Norwegian- Minneapolis Institute of sored by Handweavers Guild of American Museum, Decorah. Arts. To Apr. 18: “Textiles and America. San Jose Museum of Quilts & To Feb. 21: “Sacred Symbols: Texture: Selections from the http://www.weavespindye.org Textiles. To Feb. 7: “Still Crazy.” Ceremonial Cloth.” Fiber Art Collection.” Feb. 16-May 9: “Poetic License: http://www.vesterheim.org http://www.artsmia.org Oct. 11-15: ENCUENTRO DE The Art of Joan Schulze.” TEJEDORES DE LAS AMÉRICAS/ http://www.sjquiltmuseum.org MARYLAND MISSOURI GATHERING OF WEAVERS OF THE National Archives-Central AMERICAS, Municipal Convention Baltimore Museum of Art. COLORADO Plains Region, Kansas City, MO. Center, Cusco, Peru, organized To Feb. 21: “Mournful Maidens: Avenir Museum of Design Jun 4-Aug.21: “Partisan Pieces: by The Center for Traditional Love & Loss in American & Merchandising, Ft. Lewis Quilts of Political and Patriotic Textiles of Cusco. Embroidery.” College, Durango. To Jan. 22: Persuasion.” http://www.textilescusco.org www.artbma.org Woven to Wear: Navajo and St. Louis Art Museum. Feb.14- Nov. 7-8: THE ART OF Hopi Textiles from The Durango MASSACHUSETTS May 9: “African Ceremonial TEOTIHUACAN AND ITS SPHERE OF Collection.” Info: American Textile History Cloths: Selections from the INFLUENCE, Symposium at Mayer [email protected] Museum, Lowell. To Mar. 14: Collection,” curated by Zoe Center for PreColumian & “Changing Landscapes: University of Colorado Annis Perkins. Spanish Colonial Art, Denver Art Contemporary Chinese Fiber Museum, Boulder. To May 30: http://www.slam.org Museum. Art.” To Apr. 18: “Aprons: Fifties “Navajo Weaving: Diamonds, http://mayercenter. FUNctional Fashion.” Dreams, Landscapes,” curated by NEBRASKA denverartmuseum.org/symposia. http://www.athm.org Judy Newland. htm International Quilt Study http://cumuseum.colorado.edu Fuller Craft Museum, Center and Museum, Brockton. To Mar. 7: “Machiko University of NE, Lincoln. To DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA Agano: Structured Space.” Mar. 28: “Four Part Harmony: The Textile Museum. To Apr. http://www.fullercraft.org The Linda Carlson Four-Block 11: “Contemporary Japanese Quilt Collection.” To May 9:
14 TSA NEWSLETTER “Perspectives: Art, Craft, Design, International Lectures Workshops and the Modern Quilt.” Apr. 2-Aug.1: “Quilts Under the CANADA De Young Museum, San Feb. 20-27: SUTRA confer- Microscope.” Francisco, CA, Textile Arts ence on conservation of textiles, Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. http://www.quiltstudy.org Council Lectures. Feb. 13: Kolkata, India. To Mar. 21: “Bound for Glory: “Primitivism and Abstraction [email protected] Cutting-Edge Winter Sports Robert Hillestad Textiles in Persian Tribal Flatweaves,” Footwear.” Gallery, University of Nebraska, Alberto Levi. Apr. 17: “Insight Feb. 28-Mar. 9: Indigo Artes http:// www.batashoemuseum.ca Lincoln. Mar. 1-26: “Oh Naturale,” and Inspiration: Panel of Studio Textiles, Antigua, Guatemala. curated by Susan Taber Avila. Art Quilt Associates Artists Ikat with Virginia Davis, fol- Textile Museum of http://textilegallery.unl.edu Discuss Their Careers in Fiber,” lowed by tour. Contact: Claire, Canada, Toronto. To Mar. moderated by Judith Content. [email protected], or 21: “Kaleidoscope: Antique NEW MEXICO http://www.famsf.org/deyoung http://indigoartestextiles.com Museum of International Folk Quilts.” To May 30: “Fashionably Art, Santa Fe. To May 23, 2011: Wrapped: The Influence of Ruth Funk Center for Mar. 15-16: The National “Material World.” Catalog. Kashmir Shawls.” To Apr. 11: Textile Arts, Florida Institute Preservation Institute, Arizona http://www.moifa.org “In Touch: Connecting Cloth, of Technology, Melbourne, FL. State Museum. “Conservation Culture + Art.” Feb. 18: “The Biblical “It” Girls: Strategies for Archaeologists,” http://www.textilemuseum.ca NEW YORK Female Heroines in English Emily Williams and Lisa Young Mar. 17-19: “Archaeological Museum of Modern Art, New Embroidery,” Melinda Watt. ENGLAND Curation and Collections York. To Jan. 25: “Bauhaus http://textiles.fit.edu/ Management,” Barbara Magid. 1919-1933: Workshops for Victoria and Albert Museum, http://www.npi.org/ Modernity.” London. To Jul. 4: “Quilts.” Palace of the Legion of Honor, http://www.moma.org To Sept. 26: “Grace Kelly San Francisco, CA. Textile Arts Style: Fashion for a Hollywood Council lecture. Mar. 20: “Bast May 30-Jun. 12: “Vadmel Weaving and Design,” Telemark, Museum at FIT, New York. To Princess.” Fibers of Japan: From Tafu to Norway. Carol Colburn, May 11: “Night and Day.” http://www.vam.ac.uk Jofu,” Melissa Rinne. [email protected] http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum http://www.famsf.org/legion POLAND July 26-28: American Tapestry San Jose Museum of Quilts OHIO Lödz, various venues. May 10- Alliance’s 2010 Educational & Textiles. Feb. 16: “Acquiring Kent State University Oct. 31: “13th International Retreat, St. John’s College, Santa Studio Quilts for the IQSC,” Museum. To Feb. 14: Trienniale of Tapestry.” Fe, NM, with Lynne Curran and Carolyn Ducey. Mar. 28: “Confessions and the Sense of www.muzeumwlokiennictwa. James Koehler. “Reflections on my Practice-Led Self.” To Feb. 28: “The Kokoon pl/EN/index.htm [email protected] Research in Quiltmaking,” Lynn Arts Club Cleveland Revels.” To www.americantapestryalliance. Setterington. Apr. 13: “Analyze May 30: “Gazette du Bon Ton.” org/Education/Edu_Workshops. Virtual This: Design Principles and http:://www.kent.edu/museum . html http://www.fiberscene.com Studio Quilts,” Barbara Caron. http://quiltstudy.org PENNSYLVANIA To Feb. 15: “Fiber Spain.” María Tours Philadelphia Museum of Art. Muñoz and María Ortega. To Feb. 21: “An Enduring Motif: Art Workshops in Guatemala. The Pomegranate in Textiles.” Textile and photography tour to http://www.philamuseum.org the Ixil Triangle, Mar. 18-27. http://www.artguat.org SOUTH DAKOTA Slow Fiber Studio Tours: South Dakota Art Museum, Nagoya, Japan (May, 2010), Brookings. To Apr. 18: “The Pugalia, Italy (June, 2010) and Collector’s Eye.” China (2011). http://www.southdakotaartmuseum. http://shiboriorg.wordpress.com/ com projects/slow-fiber/
WISCONSIN Friends of Fiber Art, May James Watrous Gallery, 5-19: Lödz, Poland, 13th Wisconsin Academy of Sciences, International Triennale. Arts & Letters, Madison. To http://friendsoffiberart.org Apr. 11: “Stitched Ground: Four Artists Embroider the Land.” Tia Stephanie Tours, Apr. 2-11: http://www.wisconsinacademy.org Hanging, 1950s; Igbo; cotton and indigo; 84 x 60 inches; Saint Louis Art Ikat Rebozos of Mexico. Museum, Museum Shop Fund 123:1994. From the installation “African http://www.tiastephanietours. Ceremonial Cloths: Selections from the Collection.” com/more_info/trip25.html WINTER 2010 15 from p. 13 Panels will cover how along with contributions from An Artist’s Community” at emerging artists get a start, how creative practitioners. Wayne Art Center, Wayne, PA. environmental art can make a Subscription information: The symposium precedes the difference, and words of wisdom Print ISSN: 2041-9112 exhibition, “ArtQuilt Elements about reinventing creativity over Online ISSN: 2041-9120 2010.” Info: Carolyn Lee many years from artists who Individual rates: £50 / $95 Vehslage, [email protected]. have been working in the field (print only) http://www.wayneart.org for a long time. Information: Institutional rates: £186 / $363 TSA New Dues http://www.surfacedesign.org (print + online), Rates Begin £158 / $308 (online only) Joint SDA/SAQA Natural Dye Submissions are sought January, 2010 Conference Symposium from interior design theorists, TSA announces some changes The International Symposium practitioners, and from other AQA AND THE SURFACE in its membership rates start- and Exhibition on Natural Dyes relevant disciplines. Manuscripts Desisgn Association, along ing in 2010. North American S and Colorants (ISEND) 2011- for consideration should be with the San Francisco State rates for the US and Canada Europe will take place in La emailed to the editors at University Art Department– are listed in the left-hand Rochelle, on the west coast of [email protected]. Textiles, will host the conference column; rates for other France, Apr. 24-30, 2011. This http://www.bergpublishers. “Reinvention,” Mar. 19–24. parts of the world are listed symposium is organized by Dr. com/?tabid=7303 Marci McDade, editor, Fiberarts in the right-hand column. Dominique Cardon. For more magazine, and Janet Koplos, edi- New Arts-Based Membership renewal notices information please visit: tor, American Craft magazine, are are sent on an anniversary http:\\www.isend2011.com/ Publication keynote speakers on the theme, basis. Hand/Eye is a new publication “Life in the arts is a constant that aims to bridge the worlds of process of invention and reinven- N. America Elsewhere art and craft, design and develop- tion.” Three museum curators ment, culture and commerce, Individual from the de Young Museum, San and environment and ethics.. 1 year: Francisco, CA, the Bellevue Arts The publication contains inter- $80.00 $90.00 Museum, Bellevue, WA, and the P views with textile artists and 2 years: San Jose Museum of Quilts and articles on traditional arts and $150 $170) Textiles, San Jose, CA, will give N textile arts from around the the curator’s viewpoint on rein- world. The theme of Issue #2 is New Professional* venting oneself—how artists cap- reinvention of traditions. Issue $50.00 $50.00 ture a sense of cultural memory; #3, due in Spring 2010, will they will also discuss the selec- New Classics from focus on Central Asia. Print and Student** tion process for exhibitions. Thames & Hudson online editions are available. For $35.00 $45.00 Thames & Hudson has published more information, visit: paperback editions of two clas- http://www.handeyemagazine. Institution sic titles on Asian textiles. Indian com/ $150.0 $200.00 Textiles: From Southeast Asia to Turkey Red Journal Japan by John Guy is a republica- Supporting TSA NEWSLETTER The latest edition of Turkey Red $150.00 - $500.00 DEADLINES tion of the 1998 volume, Woven Cargoes: Indian Textiles in the East. Journal, a magazine on natural • March 30 Traditional Textiles of Central dyes, has been posted online at • July 30 Asia by Janet Harvey is a republi- http://www.turkeyredjournal. *This rate is available for two • November 30 cation of her 1996 volume. Both com consecutive years only books are available at: Submissions may be sent to Please send news, reviews, Pam Feldman, pfeldman@saic. ** Please provide proof of cur- listings, and articles to: http://www thamesandhudsonusa.com/ edu. Back issues of the print ver- rent full-time status Karen Searle, Editor sion of the journal are available TEL/FAX 651/642-9897 New Journal from Berg for purchase by contacting Pam. [email protected] Interiors: Design, Architecture, If you would like to be on the Thank you for your continued TRJ new-issue notification mail- interest in and support of TSA Newsletter Staff Culture, Edited by Anne Massey, MIRC, Kingston University, UK, ing list, please email Pam at the TSA! Karen Searle, Editing, Layout above email address. Susan Ward, Copy Editing and John Turpin, Washington Charlotte Cosby, Proofreading State University, US, offers inter- disciplinary scholarship from across the arts and humanities,
16 TSA NEWSLETTER