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Home , Chepauk Palace, Kalanji, Madras Day, Mandavelli

Registered with the Reg. No. TN/PMG (CCR) /814/06-08 Registrar of Newspapers Licence to post without prepayment for under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. WPP 506/06-08 Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS INSIDE

• Short ‘N’ Snappy • A great collaboration • What is funda? MADRAS • Ramunni Menon & Gandhi • Suggestion to save heritage

Vol. XVIII No. 4 MUSINGS June 1-15, 2008 Is VPH to get a new

“Look“A ‘Sound at theand Light’bright show side, with- the humidityout any sound today oris light...only 40%... Brilliant, Isn’t I thatthought!” cool?! With warm greetings Listen, we realise you’re just do- ing your job, but could you dial it down a little for us? It’s summer for some, you shrug, adding that it’s been designed this way, and who’s These statues had once been Vestal Virgin white – though when these pictures (above) were taken ‘us’ anyway – specifically? sometime ago they had got blotched through sheer neglect. But when their white gleamed, they were as Oh, we’re number three from The Old...eye-catching as My Ladye’s Garden was. Today, in Technicolor, they are cinematic embellishments ...& The New you. You know... the blue that are an affront to aesthetics – unless you are a poster collector. one? And specifically, we’re the ones who, right now, are on the spot, your spot, slowly melting into grease. What’s that? Our kind has been known to extol the glories of those such as you, etc, etc, so what are we complaining about? Point taken – but you really shouldn’t let that kind of stuff go to your incandescent, gor- geous head. You get carried away – we’re done for... well- done, at that. You know what happens to us mere mortals when you Uni- verse types decide to step high and plenty? Look, news headlines are warm enough – what with all those ‘inflation heats up’ reports, and even the gentle, ubiqui- tous idli finding itself in the middle of a price row. The powers-that-be shouldn’t give us a sort of package deal of rising prices and tempera- An ecosystem tures. Chennai goes blindly Unfair. That thick, wild, fiery mane, under threat Technicolor that glowing smile – awesome (By A Special Correspondent) (By A Special Correspondent) image... still, can you ease up, he recent decision of the The latest announce- old friend? TState Government to sanc- ment follows a series of de- ho governs public aesthetics in Madras that is Chennai? Is Just a bit? tion the building of a shipyard- velopments that have taken Wthere a body that looks into aspects such as these when the That way, we can strive for a cum-port with private partici- place in the area, Government announces “beautification” schemes such as those in place amidst you. pation at a cost of Rs. 3000 each degrading the environ- progress on the Marina and elsewhere? True, there have been So much nicer than having it crore in the area of Kattupalli, ment further. The North concerned citizen forums and local newspapers which have taken some interest, but is there a panel of eminent independent citizens thrust upon us. 25 km north of Chennai, has Chennai Thermal Power raised questions – and protests Plant, the Port and (Continued on page 2) Ranjitha Ashok – from ecologists. (Continued on page 7) CMYK 2 June 1-15, 2008 Chennai goes blindly Reporters in search of soundbytes he arrival of a new daily ing off whoever calls with a . He also helpfully Tin the city has thrown the terse “No comment.” added that he needed to write Technicolor newspaper world of this city 100 words about the area. (Continued from page 1) into turmoil. In fact, the churn Crossed talk Realising that a few sentences began much before the daily would amount to just that and which monitors such grandiose plans and their ultimate fruition? made its actual appearance. t least one request for a would save him the job of re- The answer is a resounding NO. If such a monitoring body had Several journalists think that Asoundbyte deserves re- searching, MMM suggested existed, we would perhaps have never got those rockeries with The Man from Madras Musings cording in the annals of Madras that he could read Madras Re- stone birds and deer on the beachfront. The same goes for the has all the answers to queries Musings. discovered. “Peace Monument” next to the War Memorial which is, at best, a on Madras and keep calling The reporter called The “But, Sir,” came the reply, memorial to a super-fatted dove relieving itself on a globe. him. A few weeks ago these Man from Madras Musings and “It has 500 pages and I have fif- calls diminished in number asked if he has heard of a par- teen minutes to write the piece.” Now the city is becoming extremely colourful. And the colours and, instead, he began getting a ticular starlet from the Hindi “Look up the index,” was are not the ones any person with a sense of aesthetics would sug- host of calls from strange and film industry. MMM confirmed MMM’s sage advice. He’s lucky gest. You need to only look around to see the liberal use of colour. unrecognised telephone num- that he had. Whereupon he he did not contact the Chief The Dental College on Muthuswami Iyer Road has been painted bers. MMM, who has the habit was asked if he knew that she who would have snapped his in blue. Victoria Technical Institute on Mount Road, which was of avoiding calls unless he had recently been in the thick head off and informed him that white till recently, first went pink (often referred to as ‘mittai’ recognises the numbers, ig- of a controversy over a particu- after 60 years in journalism he pink in local parlance) and has now gone parrot green – or should nores them all. In this respect, lar sitting posture of hers in a knew all about deadlines. we say ‘bilious green’? There is also a flourishing trade in fluores- MMM differs from his good film. MMM had not and all this cent paints, with many residences in the city now donning yel- lady, who answers all calls and while MMM’s blood pressure, Railway billboards low, saffron and purple. These colour changes are apparently be- manages to strike a conversa- always apt to reach great ing recommended to those seeking to appease the Vaastu gods. tion with even those who call heights, began its ascent. ow that the hoarding in On a more mundane level, there are tales spun about those left inadvertently. However, that is The reporter then pro- Ndustry has gone into a with a large surplus stock of fluorescent paints. neither here nor there. ceeded to ask MMM if he could temporary exile, those who To get back to the main tell her what, as per the need to advertise are desperate Even statues are not being spared. There was a time when story, MMM eventually got shastras, were the acceptable for new venues and what better these were put up with their natural bronze or a coat of black around to answering the calls sitting postures of women! than the sides of railway paint at the most. But now many of these are painted a bright only to have the callers rather MMM replied that, alas, he coaches? Given that our rail- gold, as the Swami Vivekananda statue on the beach will attest. sheepishly confess that they knew nothing about our hoary ways are commercialising with Even worse has happened to the statue of the Travancore Maha- had made a change and were scriptures. There was a click of a vengeance, it is a win-win rajah Chitra Tirunal Balarama Varma. This was for long in the now in new offices. To MMM, exasperation at the other end of situation for one and all. That Travancore Maharajah’s Park opposite the Annamalai Manram. it is all rather like a game of is, if you do not consider aes- Then the park became a bus terminal and the statue became a musical chairs, only there seem thetics and passenger conve- convenient urinal. All this while, however, it retained its bronze to be fewer reporters and more SHORT ’N’ nience. These two, of course, finish. But well-wishers of the Maharajah felt that he was better jobs available. do not matter in today’s world. off enshrined in the Ananthapadmanabhaswami Temple in Adyar SNAPPY Now, given such a situation, To The Man from Madras and shifted the statue there. And, lo! some bright spark thought all these young ’uns are under Musings, there is nothing uglier the ruler was better off painted in multiple colours and he now great pressure to rustle up some than a railway carriage which is stands looking like a clay doll in polychrome hues. the wire. “But, Uncle! I thought covered from top to bottom on story or the other and very often you were an expert on heri- they are given about the same the outside with vinyl sheets or Nowhere is this “Benneton”isation of statues more evident tage!” whatever they are, advertising than in the My Ladye’s Garden, which possesses five statues in time as it takes for a mosquito to You could see that MMM breed. Consequently, old fogeys products ranging from cell all, four depicting Venus, Prosperity, A woman writing a letter, had fallen from his pedestal. phones to pressure cookers. Flora, and one commemorating Subbiah Chettiar, Commissioner (mental or physical) such as There was nothing to be done MMM are in demand. While Even the window panes are of the Corporation in the 1930s. All of these were done by stu- except to hang up on the caller. covered, though MMM is as- dents of the College of Arts and Crafts and, being plaster statues, MMM is all eager to help, for he But, somehow, MMM was not cannot forget that he was in his sured that this does not block were given a coat of white paint. That is how they remained dur- upset over his ignorance. Some- the view from the inside, owing ing the long years when the park was a much sought after haven time helped by seniors in the thing tells him he will not be field, he strongly resents the us- to the special nature of the ma- and then a picture of neglect. But in the late 1990s when the park called again. Or, perhaps, he is terial used. was restored, someone decided to paint the statues in the best age of the word “Uncle” as a too sanguine. standard form of greeting. It de- The railways in its zeal to traditions of Tamil cinema. They were all done up in gaudy make money has forgotten that colours, including that of the late Corporation Commissioner. stroys MMM’s mental image of himself as a young man on the Speed journalism such blanket advertising hides He, in fact, now looks more like Dr. B.R. Ambedkar than anyone the seat numbers which are else. threshold of life. f there is one positive devel- And that is not all. The caller usually painted above the win- Iopment with the present rush dows. This helps passengers to The ‘Maadi Poonga’ which was a neglected park on Olde wants to finish her (and invari- for journalists in the city, it is Madras’s boundary wall in was converted over- ably it is a she) part in a trice and identify from outside where that the city itself is receiving a their berths are, especially in night into a cinema-set-like structure a few years ago. This de- so cannot be bothered with de- lot more attention than it ever spite the fact that this was a protected monument on the ASI list! tails. If MMM tries to give any airconditioned coaches, did in the past. All kinds of thereby helping them plan Temples in the city have not been spared either. Glazed tiles have side story, he is invariably cut people are trying to write made their appearance in the sanctum sanctorums and as for the short and told to stick to the which door of the coach they knowledgeably about Alan- need to get in by. gopurams they are becoming brighter by the year. point at issue. (“Uncle has had gatha Pillai, Charles Trevelyan it, he rambles!” must be the war At present, with the seat All these acts point to a sharp decline in public aesthetics. The and other such long forgotten numbers obliterated, passen- cry in journalistic circle.) And characters, all of whom The tendency to depict everything in the gaudiest possible colours and when the reporter thinks the gers have no option but to get in cinema-set-like fashion is rampant. Gone is the time when Man from Madras Musings in and then locate their seats. story is over, the call is immedi- thought lived only in the Chief’s Chennai was known for its white or offwhite homes and classical ately cut, with a terse ‘Thank This results in a lot of needless structures, red police stations and offices of government agencies mind. The only problem is ev- to and fro movement, complete you’. But the story does not end eryone is writing the same thing in red brick, all giving the city an elegant look. here. Within ten minutes there with bags and cursing porters. with a few rehashed sentences MMM, who was recently What all this sadly reflects is the absence of an Urban Arts will be a fresh call, this time with thrown in for good measure. doubts which would not have part of such a fracas, is still re- Commission that can intervene and prevent such offences to the There is really nothing new, ex- covering. eye. Compare this with the case of Delhi where such a body exists arisen had the reporter listened cept for the errors, one of which since the mid-1970s. It has powers to advise the Government to MMM’s story in full. Such gave MMM a hearty laugh. and local bodies on matters of aesthetic quality or urban environ- calls keep continuing far into Writing about the Cooum hazards the night till the story is eventu- mental design. Every local body must seek the Commission’s Tank, a young woman had writ- ecently, The Man from ally put to bed. clearance before according approval to any building or engineer- ten that the Portuguese had RMadras Musings was asked ing operation and developmental proposal in identified areas. Pro- MMM is shocked at the ig- shifted the temple inland in the to give a lecture on heritage to posals by public or private bodies to develop buildings or con- norance of such reporters on SEVENTH Century! Kudos for schoolchildren. During the pre- struct multi-storied buildings; institutional or public buildings; very basic aspects of history imagination, thought MMM. sentation, MMM dwelt at hospitals; educational buildings; cinemas; large residential; and and heritage, which a quick The other point is that not length on Pachaiyappa Muda- office complexes or plans of giving a face-lift to buildings and read of a book would set them one of these newfound writers liar, the man after whom the those earmarked for government or administrative functions right on. However, this being is analysing anything critically famed Trust is named. MMM within the city limits also fall under the Commission’s ambit. the electronic age, Gen X is or doing any research – not spoke of how Mudaliar lived on more comfortable getting infor- even a skimming through of the the banks of the river Cooum At one time it was hoped that a Heritage Committee set up by mation with the brevity of an books on Madras. There is no and bathed frequently in it. the Government could go into such matters in Chennai. But with sms and preferably over phone. viewpoint and most are simply “That was why he died the Committee having long been given a burial, aesthetic revival The correct term apparently is descriptions of what they see. young,” said a voice from the in public spaces in this city remains a distant dream. Those who “soundbyte”, though it is per- There is consequently no depth audience. MMM is still to live are concerned with such matters as a uniform skyline have long haps more commonly used in in their writing. The other day, that down. given up such ideas. But can we at least hope for some neutral the television industry. MMM a young man called MMM and colours which please and not offend the eye? has now taken to soundly bit- asked for a few sentences on – MMM June 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Vanishing heritage fter reading the contents of Athe letter from the Secre- It’s pathetic! tary and your reply, which has not drawn a response from the hat’s all this Retired Army General Ration Card Government (not surpris- Wrigmarole! Doomed heritage? kilometre. In another 20 years, ingly), it is only MMM’s (May In a country where, in a sense, corruption is not news and, in this will go up to 37,000 people another, it is the daily news, the real issues are: t is wonderful that Madras 1st) last line that comes to per square kilometre. This Why does a Retired General have to put himself out to Musings feels so strongly mind: “Chennai has never been I means that heritage buildings get a ration card? about heritage buildings. But, known for public spiritedness, like what you have illustrated Why, with his rank, stature and demeanour is he unable to with children dying of hunger has it?” will come down and mini sky- impress civilian staff to just issue him a card? and poor folks dying of diseases Love or commitment to- scrapers or even 20/30 storey Why, even after an year and more long ordeal, has his con- that could be prevented and wards heritage structures has tact with the topmost civilian of the State not borne fruit? buildings will be the order of the amidst all sorts of other terrible never been our strong point or Why cannot the Chief Secretary just press the buzzer/ring day. This is now a disease affect- things, I feel buildings will have culture. So, many ancient the phone and see that the card is delivered at his desk in a jiffy ing not just Chennai but most, to come and go, and go they temples and houses have been to enable the General to collect it and walk off? if not all, States in India. will, if not in our generation, left to rot and become ruins in By 2010, India would have N. Dharmeshwaran surely, in the next. rural India by the highly reli- 1.2 billion people and 20 years 11/5, First Cross, Bharath Nagar gious people of our country. , Chennai 600 091 V. Ravindran thereafter this will be 1.4 billion They build and consecrate new 5/2, 4th Trust Cross going on to 1.6 billion. Surely, temples in their present place various nomenclatures and the Ranjitha is aware of it) and that , Chennai 600 028 other heritage buildings, if any (of new residence) for their travel time is almost the same is, gone are the days when girls Callous vandalism left by then, will go under the convenience, but they don’t between destinations. A few being looked at were humiliated hammer to make way for con- want to spend the same amount categories of buses stop only at by having to repeatedly pros- he demolition of Govern- crete jungles. on renovating ancient architec- a few specific locations, which trate themselves before the ment House (MM, May 1st) T Heritage buildings will there- ture! Perhaps, because permis- is not improvement of service would-be bridegrooms and their is callous vandalism. after remain only on paper and sion for renovating does not but only denial of service. Even family members, not to speak of Although, as you say, the in books. Does anyone really come as easily as it does for if the bus makes only a few the avaricious demands in the heritage movement in this city care? If so, surely they will plan building new ones with “mod- stops, the travel time is almost name of dowry. lacks steam, what is baffling is to move the capital of Tamil ern” technology! the same for various categories why the legal route has not been P.A. Ranganatha Nadu to its heartland. I earnestly appeal to you to of buses in view of the traffic resorted to at least to stall the 10/24, Vedacthala Garden organise tours of the remaining congestion and road conditions. demolition. Legal pundits are K.V.S. Krishna Mandaveli Street 24, Parkland Apartments heritage structures in Chen- The only visible result of filing PILs for such lofty matters Chennai 600 028 Kamala Bai Street, nai, at least for the benefit of such categorisation of buses is as the inadequacy of Mallika T. Nagar heritage lovers, so that they can that the poor, who cannot af- Pocket radios? Sherawat’s attire in the pres- Chennai 600 017 still hope to get to see and ad- ford to pay high fares, have been read reader Ganapathy’s ar- ence of many VIPs. A PIL to mire them before they turn to driven to despair. Government ticle on and enjoyed save Government House would Long-term view I dust. has failed to realise that the it. It brought back nostalgic have evoked thousands of silent n such an important project public transport system is most memeories (I am 77 years votes of thanks. Kanchana Ravi as building a new Assembly essential mainly for the poor, young). But I think there was a Supplanting the Government I 237,Natesan Nagar and Secretariat complex (MM, who cannot afford any other mistake in his recollection. He House with a new creation is 1st Cross Street May 1st), Government should form of transport, such as two- says that they went for the like pulling down the Thomas have initiated a public debate Chennai 600 092 wheelers or autorickshaws. match with score-sheets, Munro statue and erecting in its regarding the choice of site for By categorising the buses, binoculars...pocket radio, etc. place a statue of Marilyn Mon- the new project. Back to sender the number of ordinary buses To my knowledge there were roe! Government could have at his refers to A delivery prob has been reduced for all practi- no pocket radio sets in 1945. C.G. Prasad least chosen another place, like Tlem in the Short ‘N’ Snappy cal purposes, making people Notwithstanding this, I thank 9 C.S. Mudali Street the sprawling race- (MM, May 16th). wait for long at bus stops and him for so vividly bringing back Kondithope, Chennai 600079 course maidan, and allotted the On May 4th, I posted a travel in extreme discomfort in to mind the 1945 match, espe- Racecourse Club enough land cially Russi Modi’s 205, for Buildings ahoy! letter at the T. Nagar Head the fewer but more crowded on the periphery of the city for Post Office to Hyderabad, buses. which he appeared on the front t is sad and shocking that racing. clearly indicating on one side of Ministers and senior IAS of- page of Kalki. IGovernment is bringing But even that would have the cover the sender’s address ficers responsible for this state been no real answer to the prob- Dwarakanathan down another heritage building and, on the other side, the of affairs should travel in the or- 112, Habibullah road (MM, May 1st). With Govern- lem. If not now, after some addressee’s. In two days, I was dinary city buses and feel the in- T.Nagar, Chennai 600 017 ment House will also go many decades both the capital of surprised to receive the cover tensity of the problem for them- old trees. All that Madras and the Assembly back, intact, but with postal selves. Musings has been writing about and Secretariat may have to be cancellations of T. Nagar Head If they already know the READABILITY PLEASE or talking about has only shifted to a centrally placed problems but have nevertheless Post Office on both sides of the Dear Readers, reached deaf ears. Obviously, region. A long-term view cover. I took up the matter with introduced such measures, it As letters from readers people at the helm think only in should have been taken in the the Senior Superintendent of only amounts to an indifferent terms of concrete structures and matter. Post Offices at T. Nagar. I re- attitude to the problems of the increase, we are receiving more and more hand written letters, more of them. M.R. Pillai ceived a reply dated May 15th, poor in the city. many of them in a hand so small Already Chennai has over 110, Rupa Nagar informing me that an enquiry Government could have 24,000 people per square Coimbatore 641 045 has been instituted to find out marginally raised the fare and and illegible or large and the reason. Even when we opt kept only the ordinary buses in scrawled as to be unreadable. to use postal services we are not the city, instead of reducing the Often this leads to our OUR ADDRESSES always happy with them. number of buses and promoting discarding a letter, particularly if class-consciousness by such For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of receipts V. S. Jayaraman some part of it is unreadable. etc.: Chennai Heritage, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, , categorisation. The sight of AC If you wish us to consider your 31, Motilal Street buses plying largely empty will Chennai 600 014. Chennai 600 017 letter for publication, please certainly create a feeling of ne- Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the editor can be type it with enough space sent via email to [email protected]. Those who wish to intimate Our public transport glect and frustration amongst the poor waiting long for the or- between lines or write it using a change of address can also do so provided the subscription number is think the public transport quoted. dinary buses at bus stops. medium hand, clearly dotting Isystem in Chennai, particu- the ‘i-s’ and crossing the ‘t-s’. For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other circulation larly for those belonging to the N.S. Venkataraman matters: MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., Many readers also try to fill 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. lower and middle income M 60/1, 4th Cross Street every square centimetre of a groups, has virtually collapsed. Besant Nagar postcard space, making read- On editorial matters: The Editor, MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani In recent times, the Govern- Chennai 600 090 Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. ing or editing impossible. ment of Tamil Nadu has coined No prostration No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be several appealing names, such Please help us to consider sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons concerned as ‘Deluxe’, ‘Express’, ‘Point to anjitha Ashok has clearly your letters more favourably by and you will get an answer from them to your queries reasonably quickly. recounted the state of af- making them more legible for Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be Point’, and ‘AC buses’. A fre- R fairs in matrimonial discussions able to help you faster and disappoint you less. quent traveller, however, knows us. that there is practically no dif- (MM, April 16th). But one THE EDITOR THE EDITOR ference between these buses of thing has changed (and perhaps 4 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2008 June 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 A great collaboration, British and Indian The result, the colonial architecture of Madras, an ‘imperial conversation’ In 1818, de Havilland, fresh from Kirk was built, Robert Fellowes St. Andrew’s Church Pachaiyappa School the success of building St Chisholm said that “if a dome Senate House henever a heritage struc- So, were buildings such as “Imperial Conversations” by the George’s Cathedral (Cathedral was turned on true Hindoo prin- Roly O More and while speeches piece of land in free hold. The Pillai concludes that the Diwan Wture of Madras city bites Senate House purely British? No, author and she cites several ex- Road) and by then Superintend- ciples without a centre, the cost in English were being made, early records carry names such as Khana, once a Palladian pavilion, the dust, those who lament its argues Shanti Jayewardene Pillai amples in her book to support her ing Engineer, took over the task. of doming was very little more Brahmins were given gifts of Polony Vellur Moodelliar and had been modified into a two- passage are branded as apologists in her book Imperial Conversa- claim. These vary from the most He persuaded the authorities to than the cost of walling.” money! In direct contrast, the in- Vencataramiah who were storeyed Revenue Board build- for the British Raj and all that it tions, Indo-Britons and the Archi- commonplace, such as the mak- go in for a brick dome, confident An inherent trust on the na- auguration of the building, on praised for their expertise in ing. This was, according to the stood for. Part of the reason why tecture of South India*. Basing her ing of bricks, to the building of of the abilities of the native ma- tive method of building the March 20, 1850 was completely building bridges. The coming of drawing, already clad in the clas- the city’s built heritage of the 18th work on the construction and the great edifices of the Raj. sons to produce one. He argued dome, however, meant that European in character with only the PWD in 1858, however, saw sical style and was transformed and 19th Centuries remains un- subsequent history of four build- Prior to the coming of the that a timber structure was sub- acoustics had to be given the go a sprinkling of Indians present. to it that such native experts into an Indo-Saracenic façade by protected is that there is a very ings of Madras city, the Chepauk British military engineers, states ject to the depredations of white by, resulting in a dismal echo in The Governor, Sir Henry were hidden behind the mask of Chisholm in 1868, to match the common notion among the pow- Palace (and the Revenue Board the author, native architecture ants and would wear out soon in the Kirk. The service could Pottinger presided and a choir officialdom. Thus, as the author frontage of the Khalsa Mahal. ers that be that these are build- Building), St Andrew’s Kirk, flourished under the rich patrons the harsh climate of Madras. scarcely be heard but de sang the British Anthem. This notes, while Cotton got a knight- This is backed by a minute re- ings built by the British and so Pachaiyappas College Building and was designed and executed To convince the patrons, de Havilland conveniently blamed was perhaps indicative of the hood and was promoted, corded by Napier where he pro- Indians have no necessity to pro- (NSC Bose Road), and the Sen- by native stapathis. However, the Havilland had a test dome built it on the “age of the reverend!” growing divide between the mas- Veeranna remained a sub-engi- poses a “whole new façade” for tect or restore them. But were ate House, she states that all such absence of pre-Raj palatial man- in his garden on Mount Road. During this time, he also experi- ters and their subjects which re- neer all his life! By then, how- the Revenue Board buildings these purely British? Was there work was purely collaborative sions and public edifices, leaving From the absence of any draw- mented with and studied the sulted in the revolt of 1857 ever, the construction industry that “might be harmonised with no Indian participation at all? and involved British design inter- aside those used by royalty, ings it has been assumed by the benefits of mixing jaggery with which, however, barely touched had moved to other areas such as the fantastic but agreeable style The recent restoration efforts acting with a robust and thriving points more to the ascetic nature author that de Havilland relied mortar as the Indians did. He Madras. the building of colleges, Govern- of the old Native Palace.” But at Senate House have revealed an native engineering. Such col- of the South Indian population on local talent to complete it. To came to the conclusion that this Those who attended the ment offices and, most impor- where did the inspiration for the altogether different angle which laborations have been termed which believed in building resi- ensure its success, he modified made the mortar more plastic opening would not have failed to tantly, the Senate House. old palace come from? Here the may require those who brand dences that looked inward onto the dimensions of the dome from and therefore easier to work notice the unique roof which was Surprisingly, the author has author suggests the Chow such buildings as alien to do a courtyard rather than putting the original Gibbs design and with. truss supported and had three not dwelt much on Chepauk Pal- Mahalla palace of the Nizams in some serious rethinking. For, up a massive display to the out- made it shallower and smaller in If the Kirk depended heavily coverings of zinc, felt and slate. ace, the first among the buildings Hyderabad which was built in while the design of the building side world. The Indian brick too circumference. He also increased on Indian methods, the next The zinc was imported from En- to follow the Indo-Saracenic the 1750s. The Nizams were the may have been R.F. Chisholm’s prevented the building of tall the number of columns to sup- grand building, the Pachaiyappa gland, but wrought-iron rafters, style. She has cited lack of infor- titular overlords of the Nawabs of and, therefore, can be branded as structures, as it could bear only port it. This was later copied in School, was a mix of European tie beams, king and queen bars, mation about the original plan of Arcot and this may be a plausible English, though here again it is about 350 lbs/sq.inch. This was full when the Church was finally design, Indian construction and struts, bolts and nuts were per- the building as the reason. She explanation. But, with no in reality an amalgam of Indian, changed with the arrival of Tho- built. Indians did not document meant for mixed usage. The old haps not, leading the author to also cites the lack of any authori- records extant of the residences Byzantine and Saracenic styles, it mas Fiott de Havilland in Madras their skills, but the building of school building on the Espla- surmise that there was a thriving tative source to back the claim of the Nawabs in Arcot town it- is clear that the execution of that as a surveyor and architect in the the prototype helped de nade, close to Bunder Street, was industry in cast iron in Madras. that the Records Tower, built in self, this can at best be an as- design was very much Indian or, employ of the army. de Havilland Havilland to note their methods, demolished in 1844 and Captain What is certain is that the iron 1870 to link the two wings of the sumption. The laying of well foundations other classes of labourers from more specifically, that of Madras. had in 1807 built the Banqueting document them and have hands- Ludlow, an officer of the Madras columns supporting the veran- palace, is a Chisholm construc- By the late 1860s, architec- for St Andrew’s Kirk is an oft their practice of taking spirits on contact with the material Engineers, came up with the new tion. The role of the tower as a ture in Madras was largely de- The details are too numerous to Hall in Mysore and this was in its quoted story. de Havilland while sinking wells, in order to dah stairs were made locally, for go into, but just one example time considered a wonder, for where required. design. The brief was to build a they bear the stamp of C. Copaul repository of records is also fined by the work of Chisholm. opined that “the time immemo- sustain them in their great exer- de Havilland was of the view school and a hall. The hall, doubted, as the interior is largely He moved to the city from would suffice, namely that of the roof was unsupported by col- rial Madras method of well sink- tion, and to preserve them Nayagar and Sons, Madras. “Madras Plaster”. This lost tech- umns. For this de Havilland had that Indian bricks were of poor which still dominates the struc- By the time the Pachaiyappa a cone around which the stairs Calcutta when his designs for the ing” be used for overcoming the against the effect of the cold and nique, entirely unique to this part built a prototype arch in his gar- quality and this is why they were ture, was in the severely classical School building was completed, wind, leaving no space for stor- Presidency College were ap- problem of soft soil on the site. wet.” St. Martin-in-the-Fields plan inferior in load bearing capabil- style, said to be based on the age. However, Pillai has pains- proved in 1865. By 1866 he was of the world and completely un- den with native help, to establish Well sinkers were very much in Finally the dome was con- the Public Works Department known outside, was used exten- (above) that influenced St. Andrew’s that such a feat was possible. He ity when compared to British Temple for Theseus in Greece. had begun to grow in stature. In takingly documented the so indispensable to the Madras plan (below) structed, perhaps on the same bricks that could withstand 1000 This section had 15 classrooms as changes that were made to the Government that, at the in- sively in Senate House. To quote also studied the barrel-vaulting lines as Captain Underwood’s 1851, it was called the Maramut from the book and wagon-vaulting techniques lbs/sq.inch. He regulated the G well, all fronted by a verandah. Maintenance Department and palace by Lord Napier, the Gov- stance of Lord Napier, he was A Genius at Work, by description written in 1836 – manufacture of bricks in Madras To the rear of this hall came the ernor, during the 1860s, once he appointed Consulting Architect The Senate House of the Univer- of roofs as followed by native SRIRAM V “the centrings were principally was chiefly involved with build- , this “kind of plas- masons and as evident in the pal- by stipulating that soil for school proper and this is a tiled ing and the care of canals, roads had decided to convert the build- to the Government of Madras. sity of Madras composed of crooked old bam- ter involved the application of aces of Tanjore and Mysore. It brickmaking must be dug before roof structure, completely Indian and irrigation. The ing into office space. boos laid over and tied to jungle- Grand Anicut ground lime mortar in many lay- must be remembered here that the monsoon. A dimension was in its design. What better ex- of Tanjore had been made over From drawings dating to 1858 demand at the time and de wood Malabar trusses, supported (Continued on page 8) ers over several days, the final such techniques had been in fixed for the standard brick and a ample of an Indo-British conver- to the British in 1801 in full Havilland observed that they on sun-burnt bricks and mud pil- layers of which contained egg- vogue for centuries in India. mould made by the police was sation, commemorated in stone, working condition and many were a very useful set of people lars – sun burnt bricks were white and quartz sand… (The) In 1816, the elders of the given out for this. The 1804 chunam and tile? Civil and Military Engineers and left behind his opinions of packed closely together on the preparation of lime mortar re- Presbyterian Church of Madras “Regulations for Controlling the In keeping with the nature of learnt their early lessons in hy- their community. “They are a bamboos, earth strewn on these, quired slaking and grinding at decided on a circular plan for Manufacture of Bricks, Tiles and the structure, the laying of the draulics from it. Tank supervi- very hard working people but not and a plaster of wet mud applied the site along with organic addi- their own Kirk in Madras and Pots and the Burners of Chunam” foundation on October 2, 1846 sion committees were the norm provident though well paid while over all, to render the curve tives such as gallnut (kadukkai) were keen to begin work. The were modified and a licence fee, was a multi-cultural event, with even prior to this and there is no employed. They are given to smooth”. Speaking on this and a brown sugar (jaggery) solu- design for this was provided by Rs. 4 for brick and chunam, and people (Indians and English) as- doubt that men on such bodies drinking, perhaps more than method a good 90 years after the tion. After several days of prepa- the Presidency Superintending Rs. 2 for tiles and pots, was an- sembling at Kovur House in gave freely of their knowledge to ration, the plaster was applied on Engineer, Lieutenant Grant, who nounced. Applications for li- nearby Bunder Street and being the English. the walls in coats. Starting with modelled it on an earlier unused cences were considered after the led in procession by Kovur In the 1830s, Major (later Sir) large-sized to very fine-sized design for London’s St Martin- Superintending Engineer had in- Ekambara Mudaliar and George Arthur Cotton began work on sand, the number of layers varied in-the-Field Church. The tech- spected the soil on the spot. A Norton to the venue. Here the renovation of the Grand from 2 to 4 depending on the lo- nology of putting up a dome, Committee of Police would mea- Tamil, Telugu and Sanskrit po- Anicut. He supervised the build- cation. The ‘base’ coats were *Imperial Conversations - Indo- even one as shallow as the one in sure the produce and also fix ems were sung in praise of Queen ing of dams over the rivers cured for at least ten days before Britons and the Architecture of the Kirk, was fairly alien to those market rates for it. With these Victoria, Lord Hardinge (the Godavari and Krishna in the the final finish was applied.” This South India, by Shanti in charge and both Grant and improvements in brick quality, Governor General) and Lord 1840s. In 1859, he acknowledged is just one of several indigenous Jayewardene Pillai (Yoda Press, Col. Caldwell, the Chief Engi- the construction of the St. Elphinstone (the Governor). his debt to sub-engineer T. methods used on this one build- New Delhi, 2007.) Price: neer, recommended a wooden Andrew’s Kirk and later build- The Governor’s Band played airs Veeranna and petitioned the ing. Rs. 895. pp. 326. structure with a metal covering. ings in Madras became possible. An aerial view of Pachaiyappa School such as British Grenadiers and Government to grant the latter a Senate House section CMYK 6 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2008 What is An IIT Glossary Arbit – Something which is not understandable, comes from ‘arbitrary’. (Current Affairs questions are Ax – A common suffix. from the period May 1st to the funda? Bulb – Confused, not knowing what’s going on. 15th. Questions 11 to 20 per- Cash – To do well. tain to Chennai and Tamil he sylvan campus of the In- that describes this lifestyle. Cat – A very smart chap. Nadu.) dian Institute of Technol- Even seniors who try to help by 1. Which country celebrated the T Chumma – Something said or done not seriously. ogy is a good degree or two putting fundae don’t make sense Crack – To solve a problem or to do well. diamond jubilee of its indepen- cooler than the rest of Madras. initially, says Chennu. But Crash – To go to sleep. dence from the British Mandate Here, blackbuck prance along- within one semester, the under- of Palestine on May 14th? side runners on the tracks, graduates become fluent in the Cup – To fail. Comes from the “U” grade which is the 2. Name the cyclone that devas- rhesus monkeys hang around insti tongue. fail grade at IIT-M. The “U” probably looks like tated parts of Myanmar after the residential hostels, and at The slang has travelled to a cup, hence the derivation! causing landfall on May 2nd. dusk, twittering red-beaked other educational institutions Deesh – Get lost. 3. Who assumed the role of the parropts soar over tree-canopies in the city. In truth, certain ex- Despo – Noun: Someone who studies very hard. Verb: To President of Russia on May 7th? in flocks. And the humans – pressions, which are part of the study very hard. 4. Name the egg-laying mammal particularly the undergraduates lingo, did originate outside the Enthu – Having lots of enthusiasm. for which scientists have deci- who pass a gruelling exam to en- engineering campus. Still, these Funda-s – (also spelt as Fundae) comes from “fundamen- phered the genetic blueprint re- ter this premier institute – speak terms gained currency with the tals”. cently. to each other in a trademark hip crowd only after they be- Hi-funda – Someone who is very smart or something which is 5. What historic ‘high’ and ‘first’ tongue. came part of IIT parlance, a fact did the Olympic torch achieve on very good. Campus slang is never imme- some find hajjar irksome. True, May 8th? Low funda – Is exactly the opposite. diately intelligible to outsiders. other campuses develop their Goodals – To cheat, cheating; e.g. Hostel X did goodals and 6. Which cyber major has agreed But budding engineers in this own slang, but the sheer range to buy Electronic Data Systems won the match! residential campus spout some- and the number of expressions Corporation for $13.2 billion? Grub – Food. thing that sounds like arcane at IIT are noteworthy, says 7. Name the three Indians who gibberish to most. It can con- Richter. Hajjar – Many, actually anything more than two (syn- made it to Time magazine’s 2008 found polyglots, including the Some outside junta do appre- onyms are “n”, infinite). list of the world’s 100 most influ- insti – Institute, IIT-M itself. ential people? city’s English-educated Tami- ciate the rich slang, and put in lians, who have more than a efforts to perfect their IITese, as Jobless – Synonymous with Chumma, having nothing to 8. According to a recent, star- smattering of other Indian lan- they call them. One such un- do tling study, which birds in the guages. So what abashed aficio- Junta – Hajjar people, everyone. wild could be extinct within a de- G by cade in the absence of measures is the funda, as nado from a lo- Kill – To do very well. to check the retail sale of they ask around VIJAYASREE cal engineering OT – Short for “Own Trip”. Someone who’s not very diclofenac, a livestock drug? here? Not so VENKATRAMAN college, G. serious about acads, life, etc is called an OT 9. Name the ‘missing’ fourth ele- long ago, a (The author can be contacted Vinod, had cre- fellow. young linguist ated a lexicon of ment of electrical circuitry whose at [email protected] Put – Do, give. Sometimes this word serves no real pur- discovery was announced re- from Germany the “God-level” pose at all. cently. decided to get to lingo on his blog. Pack – To respond negatively, to say “no”. the bottom of this mysterious The online compilation from 10. Where did India’s Narain Peace – A positive acknowledgement, or something which in-language. his student days was an attempt Karthikeyan seal off A1GP’s sea- is very simple to do. In 2005, the research scholar to take the guesswork out of the son finale with a commanding Localite – Student from Chennai. victory? Evelyn Richter arrived on cam- usage for other devotees. For Muggu – Too studious. * * * pus where she taught German, insiders, too, it can be hard to Nice try – Ironic comment on a suggestion that is impossible 11. Why were Sembiyankandiyur a Humanities requirement. An keep up with the evolving slang. or ridiculous. and Melaperumpallam villages in old article in the student maga- Every generation of students Nagapattinam District in the zine, The Fourth Estate, con- adds phrases to the existing dic- Put – Put forth. news recently? firmed her suspicions – students tionary; the slang grows organi- RG – Get ahead of someone in a mean way, short for 12. Which temple town, on the spoke to instructors in neutral cally. Each of the thirteen hos- relative grading. Tiruchi-Madurai National High- English, but among themselves tels on the campus coins Stud – A very intelligent or well-informed person. way and closely associated with they used expressions that took phrases that don’t always propa- Thulp – To eat a lot, do well in a test. the life of saint-poet Sri Aruna- systematic deciphering. The lin- gate insti-wide. A 1990s alum- Vandi – Vehicle, usually a scooter, moped or motorbike. girinathar, is to be declared a guist designed a detailed ques- nus could bulb over current heritage town? tionnaire to learn the slang – words. Terms go extinct. Like 13. What is the old name of the the how, why and when of it – vanloon – a word for a post- scores of current IIT-Madras amazingly popular. Perhaps the ever-busy Adithnar Salai in from the students themselves. graduate geek who shies from students as well as alumni,” says alumni look up the document, Pudupet, Chennai? The answers provided her BTech types – has not been Richter. The thesis was down- in great numbers, wistfully, with 14. Which eminent Indian busi- plenty of material for serious used since the 1980s. “We used loaded 22,156 times as of early nostalgia. Or joblessly, as they ness house has announced an etymological analysis. to go vanloon-hunting,” recalls May this year, the linguist adds. would tell themselves with pre- agreement with TIDCO to jointly In her M.A. thesis published Prof. Ram M. Narayan, a 1976 For an academic study, this is tended scorn. develop an IT SEZ at a cost of a year later, Richter wrote that pass-out who teaches at Pennsy- nearly $750 million in Taramani? the IIT-Madras campus lan- lvania State University. 15. Which institution that guage borrowed from Indian Alumni from this 50-year- CHENNAI HERITAGE opened in Chennai in 1851 is languages as well as American old Institute have gone places, No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 housed in the Pantheon Com- and British slang. Considering and they have carried their I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / I have plex? the fact that students came homegrown slang with them. just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. 16. Which among the five cosmic from almost every state in the You can hear snatches of this dance halls of Shiva is located at country, there is a variety of ver- earthy, eclectic tongue in the G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Tiruvalankadu? naculars to choose from. Gram- business lounge at Frankfurt air- Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, 17. Which first-of-its-kind Na- matical peculiarities mark this port, or down the Infinite Cor- as subscription to Madras Musings for the year 2007-08. tional Institute, costing $125.2 cosmopolitan in-language as do ridor at MIT. For the engineers, G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a better million, is to be set up in shortenings and semantic the slang is a veritable Espe- city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an additional Chennai? changes of English words. ranto.“It lurks beneath the sur- Rs...... 18. How many ‘seers’ are there in Arjun Chennu, whose ar- face and erupts as soon as I start (Rupees ...... ) each Tirukkural couplet? ticle first alerted Richter to the talking to insti friends,” says Please keep / put me on your mailing list. 19. Which attraction in Ooty slang, had written an essay Chennu, who is currently in Name : ...... came up in 1848 thanks to the ef- about the difficulties of new stu- Europe, doing a Master’s degree forts of the Marquis of dents in this residential campus. in Photonics...... Tweeddale? Not only do freshies have to get Certainly, the use of this Address: ...... 20. Siruththondar Nayanmar is accustomed to the spartan hos- slang seems to be an extremely ...... referred to by what name in tel life and a rigorous academic vital part of the student iden- Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for overseas postage alone payable Kalki’s Sivagamiyin sabatham? schedule, they also have to tity. “After publishing my the- to M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. All other cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. (Answers on page 7) learn a brand-new vocabulary sis, I received e-mails from June 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

An ecosystem NOSTALGIA under threat (Continued from page 1) polluting” goods such as auto- mobile parts. But the scale of the planned Petro-Products activity actually in progress Park have all done their bit to- shows that it is anything but wards converting the area into minor. a wasteland. Illegal quarrying of The Ennore Envi- fine sand has been yet another ronment Protection Forum has Marine Villa on the banks of the Cooum where Ramunni Menon started the Zoology Laboratory of the University of threat to this place. With the been pleading for many years Madras. latest announcement, environ- that the Government take steps mentalists fear that all is over to protect the area but all this for the three villages of , has fallen on deaf years. With Kattupalli and Vayalur Kup- the latest announcement, it ap- Speaking plainly pam. The continued industria- pears that Pulicat itself is under lisation of an area which is so threat, the area surrounding close to a declared bird sanctu- Kattupalli being a major feeder ary, Pulicat, and an internation- system that is vital to the eco- on Gandhiji ally known biosphere has cast system of Pulicat. But with the doubts on whether the Govern- powers that be largely being in- (Continued from disrupting their studies,” said taunted, “Wasn’t it your uncle ment pays only lip-service to sensitive to environmental con- last fortnight) my Grandaunt, referring to who made this uncalled-for protection of natural habitats. cerns, can we expect any better? Gandhiji. Though politics was statement?” randmother never went Further evidence of this is that Kattupalli island, till recently never discussed in the family, * * * most of such activity is in viola- anywhere, but when untouched by urbanisation, is G we knew Grandfather belonged Holdalls of various sizes and tion of the rules governing Valiamma came, we were al- spread across 18 sq km. This is- to the Justice Party which felt bedding rolls meant for railway Coastal Regulation Zones lowed to accompany her to a land has 12 hamlets, ringed by that we were still not in a fit travel were kept in a closet which forbid any industrial ac- few places approved by Grand- the on the east, state to govern ourselves. downstairs. Among them stood tivity within 500 m of the High father – some visits, or to wit- on the south, An incident which stands a nice shiny brown bag with Tide Mark. ness Navarathri Kolu at a Pulicat Lake and the Buckin- out in my memory is of the time LADY MENON written in bold The Government on the neightbour’s. On such occa- gham Canal on the north-west. Gandhiji went on a fast. Grand- black letters across it. This was other hand has, predictably, sions, as the car waited for us, Fishing and agriculture are the father had gone to Delhi for his Grandmother’s official name. seen this as a revenue generat- Grandfather would come down main source of livelihood for the Council of States’ meeting When Achachan was knighted, ing exercise. It has claimed that to see us off. He would sit in his majority of the population. The where he made a speech critici- Grandmother came to be the shipyard, which will come easy chair, while my sister and I, main features of Kattupalli is- sing all those who were getting known as “Lady Menon”. Uncle into operation by 2010, will faces scrubbed and shiny and land are its natural sand dunes, worried about Gandhiji’s fast, Appu told us that there was have the capacity to employ availability of freshwater and its hair oiled and plaited, stood adding that if Gandhiji chose to great excitement when The Ma- 10,000 people. To be built over against the wall waiting for his rich greenery. Cashew, coconut starve it was his own lookout. dras Mail announced in large 1500 acres, for which land ac- signal to leave. If a cloud drifted and paddy are the main agricul- There was general consterna- bold letters: “Madras Univer- quisition has begun with the across the horizon, Grandfather tural produces. The protected tion at home on reading this in sity’s popular Vice-Chancellor help of TIDCO, the shipyard would screw up his eyes and re- Olive Ridley sea-turtles breed on the newspaper, but Grand- knighted”. But though the title will have the capability to build mark, “I say, does it look like the Kattupalli beach. According mother went about unper- “Sir K. Ramunni Menon” cargo ships, warships and off- rain? In that case, isn’t it better to a scientific study in 2006, this turbed. She had immense faith seemed to suit Achachan, shore oil rigs. As a sop to envi- you don’t go? There might be fragile ecosystem with its low “Lady Menon” seemed a bit in- ronmentalists, the Government trouble with the car, you know.” human population density may congruous to me since, in my has claimed that it is carrying well hold the key to the survival Getting no reply from Grand- G Kalyani Damodaran mind, the prefix was usually as- out an Environment Impact As- mother, he would turn his at- of Chennai. It is said to be the remembers her sociated with Englishwomen sessment for the project. How tention to us and, catching the largest carbon dioxide sink in grandfather belonging to high society. How- sanctions to plans can be given look of disappointment on my this region, absorbing all the K. Ramunni Menon ever, I felt happy for Grand- even while such an assessment face, would lash out, “Just look emissions of its neighbouring mother’s sake, for I knew she is on, is open to question. at her expression – one would metropolis. The water table here valued the title highly, knowing It is worth recalling here that is said to be so high that water think she was being taken to the in all her husband stood for and full well that while Achachan when it came to sanctioning the literally gushes out of the ground gallows.” felt that the fuss over Gandhiji’s rightly deserved the honour, the Ennore Port, similar tactics even in summer. The whole area One of the celebrated mar- fast was highly exaggerated. role she had played in helping were adopted. Despite it being is a unique biosphere, found no- riages of that era was that of The day Grandfather was to him to acquire it had in no way a Rs. 100 crore project, the port where else in South India. Is this Seethamma to the Raja of return, we had assembled in the been small. was classified as a minor port to be sacrificed for a shipyard and Parlikamedi who lived in a drawing room to receive him, and it was announced that it a port that could be built almost sprawling mansion with exten- but seeing no sign of him for a (Concluded) would handle only clean cargo, anywhere else on the State’s long sive lawns. We were told M.S. long time, even Grandmother namely foodgrains and “non- coastline? would give the concert. At this for once looked worried. Our bonus, I crossed my fingers hop- fears were quelled when he Answers to Subscriptions and contributions ing Grandfather would let us go. eventually arrived. As he sipped So, when Grandmother went up his tea, Grandmother voiced Quiz G Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has been priced at Rs.5 to give the news to Grandfather, a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out your cheque only to her fears. Grandfather gave one 1. Israel; 2. Nargis; 3. Dmitry CHENNAI HERITAGE and send it, together with the COUPON, to CHENNAI I followed her and stood behind of his rare, loud laughs. “It is Medvedev; 4. Platypus; 5. HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 or her whispering, till he was only when you sit on the fence, Reached the summit of Mt. C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS PVT. LTD., 62/63, GREAMES ROAD, forced to ask, “What is Nalini trying to please both sides, that Everest; 6. Hewlett-Packard; 7. CHENNAI 600 006. saying?” “She wants to go to the people dislike you,” he said. “If Sonia Gandhi, Ratan Tata and An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of our costs. wedding,” said Grandmother. you speak your views openly, Indra Nooyi; 8. Indian vultures; Corporate support and YOUR support will continue to be essential for Chennai “Go to a wedding?” asked you are accepted for what you 9. Memristor; 10. Brands Hatch Heritage and Madras Musings to play a greater role in creating awareness about Grandfather, absolutely scanda- circuit in Great Britain. the city, its heritage and its environment. We therefore look forward to your send- are, and there is no cause for re- ing us your contributions IN ADDITION TO your subscriptions. lised. “You are getting too fan- sentment.” He went on to say * * * If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support from those ciful, my dear. Weddings are that great stalwarts had con- 11. Megalithic pottery with of you who have already made contributions, and if many more supporters join the not meant for schoolgirls. They gratulated him on his speech, graffiti symbols having a strong bandwagon, we will not only be able to keep Madras Musings going, but also be will only distract you and you saying they agreed with his resemblance to a sign in the Indus able to continue awareness-building exercises on on-going projects as well as will lose your first rank,” he said. views, but did not have the script has been found there; undertake one or two more such exercises. So that was that. courage to express them in pub- 12. Viralimalai;13 Harris Road; Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION TO YOUR SUB- It was in mid-1942 that I first lic. This made me respect him 14. The Tatas through Tata Re- SCRIPTIONS. If, say, you send in a cheque for Rs.500, we will treat Rs.100 of it alty and Infrastructure Ltd; towards subscription to Madras Musings for 2008-09 and the remaining Rs.400 as felt the rumblings of a storm. all the more. But our uncles 15. The Government Museum; contribution towards the causes Chennai Heritage espouses. We heard a strike was on in the were both upset. His son got 16. Ratnasabha; 17. National We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those newcomers who University. “It is all that old dirty looks from his friends and Institute for Cancer; 18. Seven; want to receive copies, sending in their subscriptions. man’s doing – influencing his nephew was treated like an 19. Botanical Gardens; 20. — The Editor young minds the wrong way and outcast by classmates who Paranjothi. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2008

he High Level Group cilities. The private sector T constituted by the Plan- partner should not be allowed ning Commission on Services to handle conservation work Sector to examine and suggest Another suggestion to of the monument itself, but means for development and should be asked to contribute maintenance of monuments for its conservation and resto- and archaeological sites has ration where necessary, which made several recommenda- save our heritage should be undertaken only by tions. One recommednation expert bodies such as that the powers-that-be should grossly inadequate for the vision of drinking water and vation of the remaining monu- INTACH or under their su- pay heed to reads as follows. maintenance and restoration of toilets have been provided. ments and archaeological sites pervision. Maintenance of Heritage the monuments and the envi- The Group believes that in and development and mainte- Other alternatives could Sites‘ rons of these monuments. The order to conserve the monu- nance of their environs, an ap- also be considered, such as tri- The Archaeological Survey difference that adequate funds ments and maintain their en- propriate partnership arrange- partite agreements involving of India (ASI) has the respon- can make to a monument has virons in top condition and ment should be considered apex chambers of trade and sibility for the maintenance been well illustrated by the case undertake restoration work with the private sector. industry (ASSOCHAM, CII, and upkeep of all monuments of Humayun’s Tomb in New from time to time, the annual A classic PPP would be to FICCI and PHD chamber) and archaeological sites noti- Delhi, which has been trans- allocations from the budget hand over to selected private along with selected private fied by the Government of In- formed with the help of dona- need to be increased very sub- sector enterprises the environs sector enterprises and the ASI. dia as a protected monument tions from the Agha Khan stantially by the Centre and surrounding the monument It is imperative to redeem the under the Ancient Monu- Foundation. Paucity of funds is the States. If this is unfeasible (outside the immediate perim- lesser known protected monu- ments and Archaeological also a contributory factor for the Group would suggest that eter of the monument) for ments, many of which are ly- Sites and Remains Act, 1958. the present state of neglect in the ASI and the counterpart their development and main- ing in a derelict state at present Some of the States have also which the Delhi Red Fort finds State bodies should retain the tenance in lieu of permission all over the country. enacted similar legislation and itself. The position is not very exclusive right to maintain for some commercial develop- EDITOR’S NOTE:’ All this notified monuments and ar- different in the case of monu- only the World Heritage Sites ment so that the enterprise would be fine if each State puts chaeological sites under the ments protected by the State and other important monu- gets a stream of revenue which in place a Heritage Act and lists Acts. Governments. In a large num- ments and sites for which the is enough to provide a return in it all heritage sites that need The allocation of funds ber of monuments not even funds made available annually on initial investment as well as to be protected. As of now not made available to the ASI is minimum facilities such as pro- are adequate. For the conser- for the maintenance of the fa- one State has a Heritage Act.

(Continued from page 5) Havilland could fulfil their dreams and aspirations. So, was Presidency College is largely An imperial conversation Indian art really dead? The au- Italianate in style and seems to thor does not make a comment suggest that Chisholm was yet the main Durbar Hall. It was mitted a detailed estimate for its Art School (of which Chisholm on this, but the death of native to imbibe the local styles. But in here that he indulged in full his construction. The idea for a would later become Principal) methods and artisanship was to 1872 Chisholm was sent by taste for intricate plaster sculp- Byzantine look probably came was converted into a workshop come much later, almost a hun- Napier to Travancore to design tures, ornamental decoration from Napier who was fascinated for glazed tiles, painted glass dred years later, when a genera- a museum for the Maharajah. and artwork. Returning to Ma- with Istanbul and Constanti- and terracotta, most of which tion of new architects began Here he had the opportunity to dras, he studied the famed nople. But, within that frame- were used for Senate House. The slavishly copying Western closely study the Padmanabha- method of Madras plasterwork work, Chisholm managed to domes, of which there were ideas, most of them unsuited to puram Palace and its style ex- or bulpum and marvelled at it. incorporate all the features of plenty, followed the “Hindoo Indian conditions, and build- erted a strange fascination on Having thus equipped himself, Indian architecture that he method” and the stone friezes ings based on such designs be- him. He made detailed drawings he was ready for his master- admired. The work reflected the that adorned the exterior were gan coming up. of it and, while designing the piece, “that work of genius”, the influence of many schools. clearly inspired by the sculp- Though dry in parts and suf- museum, did so in what he Senate House. All this indicates Thus, the domes were certainly tures at Mahabalipuram. fering from excessive informa- called “a very beautiful form of that Chisholm must have inter- borrowed from the Deccani Ironically, when it was com- tion, Imperial Conversations domestic art.” Later, his design acted heavily with local arti- tombs and the windows from pleted in 1873, Senate House plays an important role in bridg- for the Madras GPO was to be sans, but in his writings he men- the Mihtar Mahal of Bijapur. was declared an important ef- ing a gap in the mindset of based on this. tions none save a Mr. Lewis, The central structure was in- fort in the revival of Indian art, present-day Government func- At the same time, Chisholm who was probably a member of spired by the Tirumalai Nayak as though it had died previously. tionaries and a largely indiffer- was also asked to study the the Anglo Indian community Palace whose façade Chisholm Indian art had flourished all ent public which views the heri- Tirumalai Nayak Palace in and who was Chisholm’s described as a “Saracenic arcade along and it was by depending tage buildings of Chennai as Madurai and, under the instruc- draughtsman. with a Hindoo cornice.” He heavily on its practitioners that alien. It is a pity that such a de- tions of Napier, he carried out Senate House was begun in could have been describing Sen- designers and architects such as tailed work will not be read by restorations and renovations to May 1869, when Chisholm sub- ate House! The Government Chisholm, Ludlow and de many.

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