WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 1 ww.wsen.n w et Wrangell St. Elias News “Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Twenty Issue Four July & August 2011 $2.50 Copper Spike driven 100 years ago— celebrating this monumental feat! Cordova Now in Close Touch With Famous Bonanza Mine at Kennicott, a Big Producer of PhotocourtesySimpson Ron Fabulously Rich Ore

he goal has been reached. 3:30 p.m., TWednesday, March 29, Wednesday afternoon will copper spike, that marked the 1911. ever remain a memorable occa- completion of track laying on At a cost of over twenty mil- sion in Alaska. It records an the new railway that runs from lion dollars. event that will have important the sea port terminus of Cordova The Copper River & North- significance throughout the to Kennicott, the end of the line western Railway, from Cordova United States. as at present projected. to Kennecott, 196 miles. At the time recorded the last At the interior terminus is rail was driven into place by a located the renowned Bonanza

(continued on page 13) Editor’s note: It has been 100 years since the Copper Spike was driven, signifying the completion of the CR&NW Railway from Cordova to Kennicott. On April 1, 1911, Will A. Steel, editor of The Chitina Leader, wrote and published this cover story. The headlines read: RAILROAD COMPLETED TO THE COPPER BELT and COP- PER SPIKE IS DRIVEN AT MINE. WSEN first printed this story in two installments in the March/April and May/June issues in 2003. This July/August 2011 printing has been edited to include the most important news but fit in one issue. PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 A note from the publisher nicott. The Park Service ick graciously filled in and our own McCarthy- for me last issue be- Kennicott Historical Mu- Rcause I was busy pack- seum are partnering to- ing for a trip to Daytona Beach gether to provide a grand to visit my mom, Neta Schafer. occasion. Mom was recuperating from a Lee Ann Kreig outdid serious bout with low sodium. I herself on her article was pleased to be able to fly (page 19), “100th Anniver- down and spend two wonderful sary of the Mother Lode weeks with her. Mom is a Road.” Another event Carl Kenyon, Bonnie Kenyon, Neta Schafer “young” 90 years old—in spite of worth remembering and and Rick Kenyon, Jr. the setback. I am happy to re- celebrating. Thanks, Lee Celebrating Mothers Day, Sunday, May 8th in port she is doing much better Ann! now. front of Port Orange Baptist Church. Wrangell St. Elias Thanks, Pastor Mark (Malcolm) for taking our On the night prior to Moth- News welcomes aboard picture on that special day! ers Day, mom’s phone rang and the following subscribers: it was Rick Jr. He informed me Donnie & Toby Northrup, Laura Brooks, AK; Dave and Gay that he had driven down from AZ; Troy Garrett, ID; Colleen Wellman, AK. Donalsonville, GA to spend Reeves, PA; Kathie Josephs, AZ; Mothers Day with me (and Lance and Tammy Wells, AK; mom). What a surprise! He out- fitted mom and I with corsages Table of Contents (I can’t recall the last time I had Copper Spike driven 100 years ago—celebrating this monumental feat!...... 1 one of those). Along with Carl Cordova Now in Close Touch With Famous Bonanza Mine at Kennicott, a Big Producer of Fabulous- Kenyon, my father-in-law, we ly Rich Ore...... 1 four went to church together A note from the publisher...... 2 and enjoyed a wonderful family Items of Interest...... 3 time. This picture was taken in The Languid Lady...... 6 front of mom (and Dad’s) church Alaska grown part 3—...... 9 on Mothers Day—a beautiful McCarthy 4th of July festivities...... 10 memory, Rick Jr. Thank you, National Park Service tries to make amends for events, arrests in Eagle...... 11 son! Be sure to read Rick’s part McCarthy phone system upgrade in progress ...... 12 3 of “Alaska grown” on page 9. Cordova Now in Close Touch With Famous Bonanza Mine at Kennicott, a Big Producer of Fabulously Rick and I want to thank Ron Rich Ore...... 13 Simpson of Copper Rail Depot in 100th Anniversary of the Mother Lode Road...... 19 Copper Center for his contribu- Alaska’s delegation says “No More Wilderness!”...... 23 tion to the cover of this special Kennecott Operations Plan in draft mode...... 24 historical issue. Thanks, Ron, for Gilahina Fire...... 25 permission to use the outstand- Fire is a natural part of the boreal forest ecosystem...... 26 Review: Fourth John Denver Tribute...... 27 ing photo of the Copper Spike Letter from WRST Superintendent Meg Jensen...... 28 driven 100 years ago. A perfect Cross Road Medical Center comes calling...... 30 picture for this issue of WSEN as Copper Valley Telephone Annual Customer Appreciation Picnics...... 30 we join in on the CR&NW Cen- Twin Lakes Campground to close for improvements ...... 31 tennial Celebration. Be sure to Cooking with Peggy...... 37 read the list of events occurring A LOOK AT THE WEATHER...... 38 July 8-10 in McCarthy and Ken- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 3 Items of Interest Welcome back, John, Barba- Mary Kaye as bookkeeper and John, Barbara and Clark ra, and Clark, and great to see Tom is helping out at the grocery Rice and Marcheta Long: The you again, Marcheta! store. Rices and their long-time friend, Larry, Lindee and Kobuk Tom answered their phone Marcheta, arrived on May 9th and Satterfield: Speaking (or writing) when I called for an “item” and soon settled in for the summer about dog boxes, made me think he said he had just finished up his season. John and Barbara picked of the original “dog gone box” generator shed and he and Mary up Marcheta at her home in Bat- that the Satterfields built for dog Kaye were enjoying their first sal- tle Creek, Nebraska. Dog Clark Kobuk. It sits on the back of ad from their new greenhouse. wasn’t sure if he wanted to share Lindee’s 4-wheeler. (That’s what Sixteen tomato plants are sure to the back seat with Marcheta, but gave John Rice the idea to build bring them a bountiful harvest in he soon got used to the idea. one for Clark.) Kobuk thoroughly the near future. John and Barbara are volun- enjoys his traveling “quarters” Another warm welcome to the teering at the Museum. In his and often rides along with Lindee Goldens! spare time (whatever that is!), when she comes to mail. Jim and Peggy Guntis: The John and Clark put their heads Rick and I stopped by the oth- Guntis’ arrived at their McCarthy together and came up with a er day to say hello and to sit for a area summer home the end of great idea—a dog box for Clark spell under their outdoor canopy. May. After Jim hooked up their that fits on the back of John’s It certainly is nice to get a show- water line and fine-tuned things, 4-wheeler. “It’s time he became and-tell tour of Larry and they welcomed their first guests an official Alaskan dog,” says Lindee’s summer projects in the of the season—daughter Kim, John. “After all, he’s 11 years works. husband Richard and their two old.” The Satterfields are enjoying children. Clark is really taking to the the summer season. Several Five days of family relaxation idea, too. He and Master John friends from town have already and fun followed which included showed up at mail call today. paid them a visit with more ex- two trips to mail and an excursion Clark looked like he was thor- pected. to the store for ice cream. The oughly enjoying all the attention Welcome home, Larry, Lindee kids especially enjoyed watching from the young ladies and their and Kobuk! the mail plane come and go. dogs. He even made his grand Tom and Mary Kaye Golden: Throwing rocks into the town entry into the mail shack while The Goldens are back at their pond was another highlight for the mail sorters looked on. John cabin on the Nizina. They barely the youngsters. decided we didn’t need Clark’s got settled in before both Tom Installing new cabinet doors assistance and so, back to the box and Mary Kaye went to work for for Peggy’s overhead kitchen cup- he went. Neil at the McCarthy Lodge— boards was first on the list of Jim

Wrangell St. Elias News (USPS 011301) VOL. Twenty, Issue Four, July & August 2011 . Published every two months at McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX 1-866-487-7657. E-mail: [email protected] “Copyright © 2011 by Wrangell St. Elias News. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without the express permission of the publishers.” Contributors to this issue: Peggy Guntis, Dee Frady, Tim Mowry, Lee Ann Kreig, Meg Jensen, Terry Bloss- er, George Cebula, Rick Kenyon Jr. and Ned Rozell. Subscription price is $14 for one year in the USA. Can- ada $16. Other countries $23. Advertising rates upon request. Deadline for publication in next issue is August 15. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Wrangell St. Elias News, McCarthy #42, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588-8998. PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 and Richard’s projects. Upgrading Since their arrival from Spo- Jim and Audrey Edwards: Jim’s solar system was another kane in mid-May, the Cooks have Staying up with the Edwards’ ac- “to-do.” both been very busy at the McCa- tivities these days is not easy. More family visitors are ex- rthy-Kennicott Historic Museum. They are enjoying their visit with pected this summer. Kim is re- Thanks to a MAC grant, Bob pur- Andrew Mackie. “We met him at turning in July—this time chased and carried solar panels, a campground in South Island, bringing her brother, Donnie, and batteries and the like from the New Zealand,” says Jim, “where his wife, Toby, from Tucson, AZ. lower 48. Together Bob and John he was doing maintenance. I They are planning plenty of family Rice erected the panels atop the took a short hike with him there, fun and relaxation for the two box car. Using various electrical up a pretty stream, and enjoyed weeks of their get-together here materials donated by Bill Selten- his company. Now, ten years lat- and in Homer. reich, Jim Guntis should have the er, he found a slot of opportunity Another “welcome back,” Jim old CRNW ticket agent’s office in to come spend six weeks with us and Peggy! the Depot, the store room and here. We are finding him both the box car electrified in the very very helpful, and fun to do things Carol Michal: While Rick and near future. It may be the first with. We are trying to find things I were visiting Jim and Peggy the electricity in the old depot built he can like so much that he will other day, my cell phone rang and in 1924, but we can’t state that come back!” what a surprise to hear Carol’s with historic certainty. Mean- voice on the other end. Peggy and Andrew has been living mostly time, Sunny has been working I were thrilled to get Carol’s news in Christchurch, New Zealand, diligently inside the depot getting that she was settled in to her new helping folks repair the damages ready for the CR&NW Railway home in Eugene, Oregon. We will from the recent earthquakes. He Centennial Celebration scheduled certainly miss our “gatherings” at managed to finish up most of his for July 8-10 in McCarthy and mail and ice cream cones at the jobs so he could make the trip to Kennecott. See their ad and store, Carol! Alaska. emerging schedule for that gala The good news, says Carol, is “We also have Margot Higgins weekend on page 32 of this WSEN staying in another one of our cab- that she and her belongings from issue. her previous home in Alaska, are ins. Margot is working on her Sunny is not alone! Lars finally on site. She is pleased with PhD. She lives in California but Mortenson, Museum Caretaker her small yard which includes 15 has spent considerable time in for the summer, brings years of rose bushes and “a lot of flowers.” the McCarthy area mostly con- experience to the essentially-vol- Of course she is still quite busy nected with Wrangell Mountain unteer position. With his able “unloading boxes” and arranging Center activities,” says Jim. assistance, the depot has been her furniture to fit in her mobile Recently Jim, Audrey, Andrew put into great shape to greet the home. and Margot took a ferry trip to next century of visitors from Cordova. They visited the Childs Carol wishes to pass on her around the state, nation and the regards and love to her McCarthy Glacier watching it crack, boom world. Lars and a host of willing and drop pieces of ice. They also neighbors and friends. Here is volunteers keep the museum Carol’s new contact information: hiked a short way out the road doors open daily. Be sure to step beyond the Million Dollar bridge. Carol Michals, 4800 Barger Dr., inside and look around, renew The Edwards’ are expecting Space 62, Eugene, OR. 97402. your membership and purchase a their Dutch friends from Hol- Her phone number is: 541-688- Centennial Decal designed by land— Hans, Monique and their 5286. Scott Clendaniel and a copy of two boys— to make a return visit Bob and Sunny Cook: When I the newly-released McCarthy to McCarthy sometime during called Bob and Sunny the other Walking Tour. It is chock full of July. day, they they were at a South interesting historic tidbits about Side potluck gathering. As many our century-old community, a Somewhere in-between their as 12 to 15 folks eat together winter-long work of love on the active social life this summer, weekly in the neighborhood on part of Patt Garrett and Ann Du- Audrey tends her garden and Jim, the South Side of McCarthy re. firewood detail. Creek. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 5

Larry Hoare: It’s been years Fred, Ann and Will Dure: The interest. I decided the news since Rick and I had the opportu- Dure family have arrived at their wasn’t too late to share with all of nity to visit with Larry. He and his place on the Nizina River. Son, you. family used to live in Kennicott, Will, is now 10 years old, says “We are writing you to share but eventually moved to Homer to Ann, and enjoys riding his bike the news that Jared Stayeart, pursue further work options. and the ATV around the property. John "Monte" Montepare, and When he stopped by the other day The Museum is making great use Betsy Bradbury are officially the to pick up a tank of propane, we of Ann’s computer skills these new owners of Kennicott Wilder- were pleased to renew our ac- days, but she does manage to find ness Guides. As seasoned quaintance. Larry is spending the time to notice her surroundings. guides for KWG we are pleased summer working for St. Elias Al- There is a black bear sow with her and honored by the opportunity pine Guides as one of their Mill three cubs that have taken a lik- to be fellow business owners. In Tour guides. He says he’s enjoy- ing to the Nizina Homestead many ways the company will be ing the change and thrilled to be grass airstrip nearby. The Dures the same: we are operating from back in the area. have had several sightings of the our office in Kennicott, the vast The next time you visit Terry bears. “I think our neighbors who majority of our amazing guides and Dee Frady’s gift shop live on the strip (the Youlds and are returning, and we still offer a (Fireweed Mountain Arts & Philipp Sturm) have an ongoing wide range of group and custom Crafts) in Kennicott, be sure to bear show from their porches. trips. We are committed to carry ask for Larry’s Alaskan Jade jewel- The sow has been a good bear, on the traditions of KWG and are ry. Larry says they still carry his and, of course, the cubs stay very equally excited about the changes line of jewelry. close to her. They are so amazing we are making. This year we have He learned to set stones in and fun to watch. I’ve been trying a full-time employee running our silver from Vancouver B.C. artist, to get a good photo, but not yet!” office, housing for our guides (in Chang Sun. In 1974 he started There is also a grizzly bear Kennicott but not camping be- making jewelry in a friend's wood- and a lone black bear in the hind our office), and soon we will shed in Girdwood. In 1978 he neighborhood. “This is turning have a new logo and website! In moved to Kennecott where he out to be the bear year,” com- addition we are continuing to de- taught himself to cut and polish mented Ann. (Hope you can get velop our outdoor education pro- the local copper ore. For most of that photo, Ann!) gram and have formed a the 80's and 90's he spent winters Neil Darish and the McCa- partnership with Carpe Diem in Homer and now maintains resi- rthy Lodge: Neil is expecting a (www.carpediemedventures.com). And dences in both places. great summer. The signs are for those of you who know about Welcome back, Larry! Hope to pointing in the right direction, he Sam Gregory's group of boys he see you again soon. says. “This summer we are seeing brings to us from Brooklyn each summer, expect to see a girls Sonny Asbury: Sonny and dog a noticeable uptick in reserva- group this year too! Mac are back home now from win- tions!” tering in Texas with family. Not The grocery store received Our goals for this summer are too much grass is growing under some new equipment, including a to run Kennicott Wilderness Sonny’s feet these days. He is 12' produce case. “This is an im- Guides with new energy and effi- driving van for Wrangell Moun- portant upgrade for the store as ciency. We want to bring an ex- tain Shuttle this summer and it allows us to add prepared foods cellent and enjoyable service to working on an addition to his cab- to our offerings. It will also allow our clients and any clients we in. He just returned from a quick us to expand our produce sec- may have in common with you. trip to Anchorage for a supply run tion.” The addition of a large Please help us by sharing with us and several windows for the build- freezer will make it possible to any questions, concerns or hopes ing project. extend the store’s frozen food that you may have about working and communicating with us. We Mac stays plenty busy section dramatically. are looking forward to this sum- himself—chasing squirrels. Sonny Kennicott Wilderness Guides mer and looking forward to work- may not think much of the activi- changes hands: Just after the ing with you, Jared, Monte, and ty but Mac thinks it’s grand fun! May/June issue was finalized, I received the following item of Betsy. PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

The Languid Lady

Wildflowers of the Wrangells—Part 5: "The Orchid Family"

the orchid then must immediately t is mid June and so far I feeds carbohydrates set up a relation- would have to say this has made through pho- ship with a particu- Inot been the best of sea- tosynthesis back to lar species of sons for wildflowers. Many variet- the fungi. fungus in the soil ies have been less prolific than To further com- to sprout and sur- the past two years and most are a vive. week or two later than usual. The plicate matters each ground temperature has re- orchid species needs For these rea- mained cool and even some ice a certain insect for sons orchids are from winter glacier activity has proper pollination difficult to trans- yet to melt. However many flow- and, in some cases, plant and cultivate. ers are now blooming and it is must be quite exact. Avoid collecting finally green. Our short summer Orchids specifically most of the time, has arrived! shaped, colored and as these plants One of my favorite plant fami- scented attract a rarely survive; try lies is the orchid (Orchidaceae). single species of in- to leave them in Orchids are more commonly as- sect. For instance, their natural habi- sociated with tropical forests or the lower petal or lip tat. hothouses but do grow wild in forms a landing I'll briefly touch Alaska producing some twenty to place and often a Picture by Hulten on a few of the or- thirty native species. Some of our lure for the insects. chids found in our orchids are showy, such as lady's Usually orchids hav- Fairy Slipper area. This is merely slippers, and are easy to identify Blooms early. ing small whitish or a brief overview; with the enlarged lower lips. Oth- greenish flowers and the best way to ers such as twayblades and bog emitting only a faint perfume are positively identify orchids is with orchis with small greenish or pollinated by the male mosquito. a good flower book. Keep in mind whitish flowers require a much Orchids that are white and emit a almost all of our wild orchids closer look to reveal the detail of heavy perfume are typically moth grow in wet or moist soil. Al- their structure. pollinated. though covered in a previous is- Alaska's species of orchids all Orchid seeds are also ex- sue I'll begin with a review of my have codependent relationships tremely small and dust-like; a favorite native orchid. with fungi. In other words, they single ovary may contain up to FAIRY SLIPPER/CALYPSO need each other to survive. The three million seeds. Most plant ORCHID (Calypso bulbosa) Or- soil contains delicate threads of seeds have food reserves stored chid Family fungi that penetrates orchid for a good start. Due to their tiny In my opinion this fragrant roots to provide water and nutri- size, orchid seeds do not have any flower may be the most beautiful ents for plant growth. In turn, reserves and to germinate seeds in this family. It produces a sin- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 7 gle rose-pink "slipper" (sac-like has tiny ¼ to ¾ inch flowers in BOG CANDLE/BOG OR- lower flower) on a slender, 3 to 8 small racemes. Racemes are indi- CHIS (Platanthera dilatata) Or- inch tall stem. The single, round- vidual flowers that have stalks chid Family ed, deeply veined leaf at the base attached to the stem and bloom Favoring margins of lakes and is evergreen and remains so from the base upward, as in fire- wet meadows in late June to early through the winter. The soon weed. The sepals and upper pet- August this tall, white orchis withering leaf dies when the flow- als are rose-pink and bears a number of er blooms and a new leaf appears white. The lower lip long, narrow, point- in August. is white with pink ed leaves on the NORTHERN WHITE or and maroons to pur- stem. The heavy SPARROW'S EGG LADY'S SLIP- plish spots or speck- stalk of 10 to 18 PER (Cypripedium passerinum) les, thus another inches has aromat- Orchid Family common name of ic (sweet scented) The lady's slippers are per- fly-specked. more open flowers. haps our best known and most NORTHERN According to Rich- striking native orchids distin- BOG ORCHIS ard Baldwin trans- guished by their large slipper-like (Platanthera hyper- planting is possible lips. Preferring woods and bogs borea) Orchid Fam- and they may do and blooming in June to July this ily well in a wet gar- perennial grows from a creeping, The green-flow- den. stout rootstock. The fragrant, ered orchis (another SMALL BOG single flower grows on 10 to 16 common name) a ORCHIS inch stems and usually has 2 to 4 perennial flower that (Platanthera ob- hairy leaves. The overall flower likes wet places, tusata) Orchid appears greenish in hue; greenish ponds and stream Family sepals, white petals and a lower edges from sea level The one-leafed pouch splotched with pink to to tree line, blooms rein orchid rosy-purple spots within the from mid June to (another common "slipper" make up the blossom. early August. The name) is much This plant is difficult to trans- stems are heavy and Picture by Hulten shorter at 5 to 8 plant and virtually impossible to fleshy, attaining inches tall and only Bog Candle grow from seed. heights of 6 to 14 Dense spike of has one (rarely FLY-SPECKED ORCHID inches and have Aromatic two) leaf at the (Amerorchis rotundifolia) Or- long, narrow, green flowers base. It only pro- chid Family leaves. The yellow- duces a few green- Also known as round-leaf or- green, sweet scented ish flowers, usually chid or rhizome orchis this aptly flowers cover most three to six. named plant is a perfect and of the stem in a dense spike. The flower lips are flat and project charming miniature of its larger HOODED LADIES' downward at the base in a "spur" family members. Loving damp, TRESSES/ALASKA BOG OR- (hollow-tube). They are very yel- wet woods and boggy areas these CHID (Spiranthes Romanzoffi- lowish under poor growing condi- plants often grow near lady's slip- ana) Orchid Family tions or after pollination. These pers. Blooming in June to July Also favoring lake edges and orchis can hybridize with bog this perennial has one rounded wet areas these plants can be candle. leaf at its base, hence one com- found in alpine areas up to 3,000 mon name. The leafless flower feet and appear in late June stem averaging 5 to 8 inches tall PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 through July. The 8 to 18 inch NORTHERN TWAY- chlorophyll can do plant has a fragrant spike of BLADE (Listera borea- well in very shady white to creamy flowers in three lis) Orchid Family places. spiraling rows around the stalk. Northern twayblade LESSER RAT- The flowers scarcely more than ¼ blooms in moist woods TLESNAKE PLAN- inches long have hoods with flat in July and early Au- TAIN (Goodyera lips. A few grass-like leaves occur gust. It produces green- repens) Orchid Fam- at the base along with some small yellow flowers and has ily stem leaves. two oval-shaped leaves. Arising from a HEART-LEAF TWAYBLADE FROG ORCHID creeping rootstock (Listera cordata) Orchid Family (Coeloglossum viride) this plant bears a bas- This insignificant orchid likes Orchid Family al rosette of lustrous moist, mossy woods in July and Another orchid that evergreen leaves that early August. The common name, grows mostly in moun- are commonly twayblade, means "two leaves" tain meadows is the marked with a net- that are heart-shaped ("cordate") frog orchid. It has work of white lines. and opposing. The small, green- many, small, green flow- The yellowish to ish flowers sometimes a dark ers and pointed leaves creamy white tubular purple, are on a slender stalk to 7 close to its base on a flowers, on one side inches. The lower lip is distinc- thick stem 5 to 14 inch- of a spike-like ra- tive as it divides into two spread- es tall. ceme, 4 to 10 inches ing prongs that come to a point. NORTHERN COR- tall have sac-like lips. This flower is circumboreal and AL ROOT I have identified grows all around the northern (Corallorrhiza trifida) many of these or- hemisphere. Orchid Family chids on our property The coral root is a and in the immediate flowering plant that area. However, there lacks green color as it are many other spe- Northern Coral has no green leaves or cies growing in our Root chlorophyll. It is para- state. Among them Flowers mature are beauties such as sitic and utterly depen- to seed pods dent on its fungus. The the pink lady's slip- roots are not roots at per, yellow moccasin all but an underground stem or flower and the rose-purple orchis rhizome, much branched that to name a few. If you are travel- resembles coral. The yellowish, ing about you are likely to spot fleshy stem of 4 to 14 inches does these and several more. have two to three clasping bracts. The spike- like racemes have tiny, Editors note: This story origi- yellowish- green flowers in late nally ran in our July & August May to early June. They mature 1999 WSEN. Thanks to Dee for to drooping seed pods. These permission to reprint. plants prefer boggy woods but Heart-Leaf Twayblade also grow in open woods of decid- Distinctive lower lip uous trees and since they have no WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 9 Alaska grown part 3— touch with the owner of Kennedy bay to load up precious crude ow that we had finally Air Service and an interview in from a pipeline over 800 miles arrived in Alaska, Anchorage was scheduled shortly long and four foot in diameter. Nwhere should we go? thereafter. We turned around Our camper trailer would After all, it was such a large and retraced our way back to become our home that fall and State (2 ½ times larger than Anchorage where Dad met the winter. Dad's boss had a hanger Texas) and there were so many owner of the air taxi and accept- at the airport and owned some places to explore! My parents ed the job. We were going to Val- lots directly across the street. had a map of Alaska that we con- dez to live! We parked the trailer on a lot sulted frequently on the trip up The drive to Valdez was beau- and prepared to settle in for the there, and one place “jumped off tiful indeed as we drove along winter. The locals mentioned the page:” Homer. Having no the Richardson Highway. There high winds that Valdez was sub- reason not to, we drove ject to and showed us how through Glennallen to to use cables to tie the Anchorage and south to trailer down. Dad built a Homer. What an inter- lean-to, enclosed porch esting, yet small com- onto the camper that was munity south of Kenai called a “Wanigan” by the and a good drive from locals. Dad built a small Anchorage. We realized wood stove using the met- we were literally at the al from a 55-gallon drum “end of the road” but it to supplement heat dur- just didn't feel like ing cold days. home. I attended a one-room Being the weekend private school that year and with most business- (second grade). We had es closed, we decided to one teacher for K-12 and attend a small church about 20-some students. I on Sunday morning. made friends with several After the sermon, we boys my age. In those introduced ourselves to days, Valdez had contrac- the pastor and he asked tors and construction Dad what he did for a WSEN staff photo workers galore and the living. “Airplane me- Rick Jr. and “Grammy” survey nice mess of fish. price of commodities was chanic” came up in the steep. I recall Mom going conversation and the pastor was Thompson Pass to drive to the local grocery store and called over a church member over, beautiful glaciers to be- nearly passing out when she saw who shared the same trade. He hold, and stunning waterfalls the price of milk at $4 and bread and Dad visited and he men- that cascaded off the mountains. half that. We soon realized that tioned a new job he was to take It looked more and more inviting though wages were higher in in another town, fixing airplanes. as we neared our new destina- Alaska, so was the cost of living! It seemed that he decided not to tion. At long last, Valdez came My grandparents from Engle- take it and to commercial fish into view as a cozy community at wood, Florida, drove up in their for salmon that summer instead. the foot of a mountain range motorhome about a month after Were we interested? We would that hugged the coastline. The we arrived. (They travelled every let him know the next morning. Alaska Pipeline was nearing com- summer that I could remember The next day, Dad contacted pletion in 1976 that year. Large all over the Lower 48. “Grampa” the mechanic who put us in oil tankers would sail across the and “Grammy” as I knew them PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 drove through Montana on their loved to fish and knew how to tangled. Grammy was ecstatic way up to visit us and purchased catch them! We caught Silver and I never saw her smiling so some property in a small town Salmon, Halibut and Red Snap- much until that day. Later that called Hamilton.) It was good to per that trip. The "Silvers" were evening, we spread out our catch see family! fun to catch and really put on a at the harbor to clean. Several Valdez had a neat folks stopped by to ad- harbor with rows of mire and ask questions. I salmon fishing boats. never forgot that fishing Dad enjoyed fishing, and trip. we would take some Winter was closing in fishing rods down to the on us and my grandpar- harbor and catch Floun- ents had to get back to der. I loved to look at their new home in Mon- the different boats and tana. We tearfully bid read the names on the farewell and they left be- sterns. They usually had fore snow fell. Since Val- female names, after a dez was at the base of girlfriend or wife. It mountains, the moist air wasn't long before we from the Sound released had an opportunity to much rain during the go fishing ourselves. summer. I learned to Dad's boss had a son wear rubber boots and a (Gary Kennedy) who raincoat to go outside worked for the highway and play. Most folks in department, and offered Valdez were used to the WSEN staff photo to take us out on his per- weather and prepared for Rick Sr. holds up Rock Fish (red snapper) while Mom sonal boat. Gary had a (Grammy) tries for another! it. What a contrast to the nice boat and went fish- sunny, hot weather we ing often. My folks, knew in Florida! grandparents and I went fishing show. When one person hooked (to be continued) in the Prince William Sound with one, the rest of us pulled in our Gary one Saturday. Grammy fishing lines to prevent getting McCarthy 4th of July festivities uly 1—Alaska Brewing 11am. Special music by Mark July 4—Parade starts at Company is pairing up Willhite from California. Every- noon. Games and Barbecue all Jwith McCarthy Lodge one welcome! day. Live music. Downtown Mc- Chef Joshua Slaughter, provid- July 3—McCarthy Lodge Carthy. ing a tasting menu at the Lodge Tasting Menu, reservations need- July 5—McCarthy Lodge at 7 pm. Limited seating avail- ed, time announced with reserva- Tasting Menu, reservations need- able. Reservations necessary. tion. ed, time announced with reserva- July 2—Block party with the July 3—Glacier View Camp- tion. band Bay Riders. ground is doing their fireworks You may contact McCarthy July 3—Evangelist Teresa beginning at midnight on July 3, Lodge at 907 554-4402; Glacier Larson from Acupulco will be starting off their July 4th celebra- View Campground at 554-4490. speaking at the McCarthy-Kenni- tion. Cold-cut sandwiches will be cott Community Church at available after the fireworks.

"Learn to say no. It will be of more use to you than to be able to read Latin." —Baptist preacher Charles Haddon Spurgeon (1834-1892) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 11 National Park Service tries to make amends for events, arrests in Eagle pairing relations with residents pointed guns at Wilde and his AIRBANKS — The chief in the remote community at the two passengers after Wilde re- of the National Park end of the Taylor Highway, many fused to stop his boat for a safety FService in Alaska at- of whom use the preserve for inspection while traveling tended a meeting in the eastern subsistence. The park service through the preserve. Wilde Interior village of Eagle last director said that mistakes were claims he was heading for the week and apologized for the ag- made last summer and that nei- riverbank when one of the rang- gressive actions of two rangers ther of the two rangers involved ers pointed a gun at him. on the Yukon River last summer. in the incidents will be back in The latter incident galva- But it was not the highly the preserve. nized Alaskans who dispute the publicized arrest and trial of Jim “We know we’ve got relation- park service’s authority to en- Wilde, a 71-year-old Central ships that need rebuilding,” force laws on state waterways man, who Alaska park service Masica said by phone this week. such as the Yukon River. director Sue Masica was talking “Things are pretty frayed over It caught the attention of about. Rather, she was apologiz- what happened last year. Our Sen. Lisa Murkowski and Rep. ing about a run-in the same two relationships with the communi- Don Young, both of whom criti- rangers had a month earlier in- ty and the people who use and cized the park service for Wilde’s volving another man: Tim Henry live in the area of the preserve arrest. Young has threatened to of Eagle. are important to us and we need use his political clout to cut off The rangers handcuffed and to rebuild them. This was an at- funding for the preserve. detained Henry for about two tempt to do that.” Wilde, meanwhile, ended up hours for allegedly refusing to Residents in the village near in federal court in April to fight identify himself but did not ar- the Canada border said Masica’s three of the four misdemeanor rest him. appearance and apology were a charges against him. The four- “It was wrong. It shouldn’t start. day trial ended April 8, and a have happened,” Masica told “We’re skeptically optimis- federal judge is still deliberating about 35 residents who attended tic,” said local subsistence hunt- the case. A decision is expected the meeting in the gym at the er and fisherman Don Woodruff, any day. Eagle school on June 2. summing the local sentiment. A week after the Wilde trial, “It hurt this community, and “We’re moving in a positive di- Yukon-Charley preserve we do apologize and we need to rection, but change with the gov- superintendent Greg Dudgeon extend an apology to him per- ernment is pretty slow.” held a meeting in Eagle in which sonally.” Relations between the park he said the park service will Her words drew a round of service and Eagle residents have continue to conduct boat checks applause from the crowd, but it been strained the last few years on the portion of the Yukon remains to be seen whether her by what some in the community River that flows through the visit to Eagle will be the first claim is heavy-handed treatment preserve but that rangers will do stitch in mending strained rela- by rangers working in the pre- the inspections on shore, not in tions between the park service serve. the river. The park service also and some of the 125 residents in The situation came to a head agreed to the creation of a the eclectic village that borders last summer after rangers de- working group consisting of the Yukon Charley Rivers Nation- tained Henry in August and ar- local residents to improve al Preserve. rested Wilde a month later in a communications between the Masica went on to say the dramatic confrontation on the community and the agency. park service is committed to re- Yukon River in which rangers PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

Last week’s three-hour meet- “Our lifestyle is going away Longtime Eagle resident ing was “a continuation of that because of regulations made by John Borg said it will be interest- dialogue,” Masica said. There the entity supposedly set up to ing to see what happens. was no discussion of the Wilde protect it,” Bassich told Masica. “Their response always was incident during the meeting, Woodruff, the subsistence they are interested in doing what which was moderated by ranger hunter and fisherman, pointed they can to make amends and Seth McMillan, who will be over- out that several subsistence cab- see that that type of behavior seeing the Park Service’s ranger ins in the preserve are falling does not exhibit itself in the fu- patrols in Eagle this summer. apart. ture,” he said of the park service Several residents expressed “That flies in the face of pre- mantra repeated at the meeting. opinions during the meeting but serving this lifestyle for genera- “We’ll have to wait and see.” people were respectful, and Masi- tions to come,” said Woodruff, Louise Freeman Toole, who ca said their passion for the sub- who rebuilt one of the cabins on attended the meeting in Eagle, sistence lifestyles they lead was the Kandik River last summer on contributed quotes and other obvious. his own. information for this story. Con- “We understand that people As far as law enforcement, tact staff writer Tim Mowry at are part of the landscape here McMillan said rangers will use a 459-7587. and preserving that lifestyle for “low profile” and “common Editor’s note: Reprinted from generations to come is what the sense” approach in dealing with the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner (Park Service) is all about,” she hunters and boaters in the pre- Jun 09, 2011. Used with permis- said after the meeting. serve this summer. sion. Subsistence fisherman Andy Bassich was skeptical. McCarthy phone system upgrade in progress

New locations include the data speeds will increase. This ork has begun on Lakina Terrace and Gilahina includes both fixed-unit phones the 5 sites between Butte, as well as at Chitina. and “smart-phones.” Data speed W McCarthy and Chi- Helicopters will be used to is expected to be in the range of tina where new equipment will access most of the sites. Staging .8MB to 1.2MB. be installed to implement a areas will be at Chokosna, Long One of the benefits of the changeover from satellite com- Lake and the McCarthy airstrip. new system will be greatly in- munication to microwave. The New Horizons Telecom will creased cell phone coverage microwave will interface with the be the main contractor on the along the McCarthy Road. Cur- existing fiber-optic system at job, along with CVT staff. rently most users only have a Chitina. Power generation at the sites signal from McCarthy to the According to Chris Mishmash will be propane and solar. The Lakina River, then only occasion- at Copper Valley Telecom (CVT), solar system is expected to pro- al spotty signal strength until work is underway to prepare the vide much of the power in the they arrive in Chitina. various sites that will make up summer. During the winter Residents near Silver Lake the new system. months propane-powered gener- and Chokosna will also be able Crews will be installing addi- ators are expected to run daily. to have phone service when the tional equipment at existing lo- Existing phone units will still new system is completed. cations at the McCarthy townsite work with the new system, but and on Sourdough Ridge.

"There is good news from Washington today. The Congress is deadlocked and can't act." --Ameri- can humorist Will Rogers (1879-1935) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 13 Cordova Now in Close Touch With Famous Bonanza Mine at Kennicott, a Big Producer of Fabulously Rich Ore (continued from the Cover) copper mine; 800 feet beyond Driving of the Copper Spike Murchison. Faithful old engine the big concentrator and ore On Monday Chief Engineer No. 50, puffing and whistling, bins, on the mountain side and General Manager E. C. stood on the track a few feet in opposite one of the largest Hawkins left Cordova for the the rear, with a large portrait of glaciers in the northland, with a front, in Supt. Van Cleve’s pri- the late M. J. Heney over the beautiful perspective of snow- vate dining, sleeping and obser- headlight. The spectacle was wit- covered mountain peaks, frozen vation car. Accompanying him nessed by a couple of hundred rivers and timbered valleys, the were J. R. Van Cleve, superinten- workmen, officials and a few oth- modest ceremonies were dent, and R. J. Barry, general er interested spectators. witnessed that records the freight and passenger agent of Prior to the act of driving the accomplishment of one of the the new railroad; E. A. Hegg, spike, in response to a sugges- most gigantic and daring photographer; and Will A. Steel, tion by Mr. Hawkins, the assem- enterprises known to the editor of the Cordova Daily Alas- blage stood with bowed and commercial world. kan and the Chitina Leader. At uncovered heads in memory of The day was most propitious. Chitina the party was joined by the late and much beloved con- The sun shone brightly and the J. C. Martin, manager of the Orr tractor, Mr. Heney. Afterwards crisp, invigorating air, with the Stage Line. Mr. Hawkins made a short ad- thermometer registering 38 de- This was the first through dress, in which he expressed the grees above zero, had an inspir- train that had gone over the en- appreciation of himself and the ing effect on the interested tire trackage of the new railroad. Katalla Company for the splen- spectators. A tense and anxious After spending the night at did organization built up by Mr. feeling was evidenced until the camp 146 the train went on to Heney and so ably perpetuated last act was performed that de- Kennicott arriving Tuesday after- by Mr. Murchison, and for the clared the practical completion noon within a quarter of a mile effective and harmonious work of the building of the railroad to of the end of the line. Shortly performed by the contracting the end of the line. And it was beyond a trestle of 256 feet was department. the obliterating of frontierism being put in, which delayed Afterwards there was general from a hitherto remote section, track laying until the following congratulations and Mr. Murchi- bringing rapid communication morning. However, the trestle son took occasion to extend his and making available all the was completed and trackage laid grateful appreciation to Mr. comforts of civilization, in the to the ore bins and concentrator Hawkins and the Katalla Compa- development of that vast domain of the Bonanza mine before ny for the many courtesies ex- tributary to the Copper, Chitina, noon Wednesday. After lunch the tended and the able assistance Nizina and other unnavigable additional 800 feet of steel was rendered his people. The several rivers. laid and the final ceremonies engines then blew their whistles All present realized the full occurred at 3:30 Wednesday af- and the workmen and all others import of the advent of steel ternoon. present gave way to much rejoic- rails in the awakening of a new When all was in readiness the ing. empire of hidden wealth that is golden, or, in this instance, the The telephone wires had kept destined to soon woo thousands more appropriate copper spike, pace with the railroad construc- of adventurous prospectors and was placed in position by Mr. tion and General Manager Hawk- operators, who will produce min- Barry. It was then driven in turn ins telephoned a message to eral values in such quantity as by chief Engineer Hawkins and Cordova, to be cabled to Seattle will startle the world. General Superintendent Samuel and there telegraphed to New PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

York, informing the owners of the period of construction such of the Miles Glacier cantilever the railroad that the copper adverse conditions were encoun- bridge, embattled on either side spike had been driven. The fol- tered and surmounted as are by the mighty Childs and Miles lowing morning several replies very seldom met with in other Glaciers, both presenting a defi- were received at Chitina, ex- parts of the world. ant wall of ice 300 feet above pressing the sincerest congratu- Much of the work on the sev- and 100 feet below the river and lations for the splendid work so eral steel bridges was done when three to five miles in length. expeditiously performed by Mr. the thermometer was from 35 to Here, in summer, thousands of Hawkins and the contracting 50 degrees below zero, or when tons of ice fall into the river in company. raging torrents or huge icebergs single masses almost hourly, ac- Shortly after the important carried by swift currents, made companied by thundering roars. finish the special train left and foundation work almost impossi- These masses of ice throw mon- passed over the new and unbal- ble. In constructing understand- ster waves across the river, leav- lasted track for fifty miles at the ing, scientific knowledge, broad ing the salmon high on the rate of 20 miles an hour. The intellect, physical force, and banks to be gathered by prowl- night was spent at Mr. even unto their heart’s blood, to ing bears and passing prospec- Murchison’s headquarters, camp a work that shall forever redown tors and Indians. 146. Thursday morning the run to their credit, to the glory of From the glaciers the line was made to Chitina, where Mr. the capitalists who made it possi- extends in a general northeaster- Hawkins left the train, expecting ble, and to the benefit of the ly direction along the Copper, to remain several days between thousands who will make of the over the Baird Glacier Moraine that point and Kennicott. With new section a land of rich devel- (a field of earth hidden ice), and the rest of the party Superinten- opment. on through the panoramic Wood dent Van Cleve took his car Route of the New Railroad Canyon, surpassing the grandeur down to mile 54, where he and The tide water terminus is at of the Alps, and on to Chitina, Mr. Barry rendered valuable as- the land-locked town of Cordova, the coming copper city of the sistance in cleaning the snow on an inlet of Prince William North. This is also the point of slides. Sound. Then, as Mr. Swergal de- connection between the railroad A Glorious Accomplishment scribes it, the road effects a sea and the Orr stage line for carry- The completion of the Cop- level passage of one of the coast ing passengers and the U. S. per River & Northwestern Rail- spurs of the Chugach range at mail to and from Fairbanks and way marks an important epoch the junction of Eyak Lake and other interior sections. Leaving in Alaska’s history. While equally Eyak River, some six miles from Chitina through a solid rock tun- as daring railroad accomplish- Cordova, the only point of easy nel, the railway makes the third ments may have been undertak- penetration to the interior from crossing of the main channel of en in other parts of the world, it the southern Alaska coast. After the Copper immediately above is doubtful if there has ever been leaving this mountain pass the the mouth of the Chitina River, another project that has been so road is laid on a tangent of thir- and there climbs to the bench successfully carried on under teen miles, passes the old Rus- lands skirting the Kotsina. One more adverse and trying condi- sian trading post at Alaganik, hundred and forty-nine miles tions. crossing the rioting delta of the from Cordova, the crossing of the Kuskulana River is made by For nearly three and a half Copper River by means of mod- means of a modern steel bridge years past, men numbering into ern steel bridges at what are 238 feet above the ice bound the thousands, from the highest known as Flag Point, Round Is- floor of the gorge, thence, on officials to the laborer who shov- land and Hot Cake channels. Fif- through the valley of the Chitina eled mud or snow gave of the ty miles from Cordova occurred to the famous Bonanza copper best that was in them. At times one of the greatest engineering mine at Kennecott, 196 miles over 6,000 men were employed, feats of modern times; the sec- from Cordova. This is in the while at the end the number had ond crossing of the main chan- heart of one of the world’s great- decreased to about 500. During nel of the Copper by the erection WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 15 est copper regions, and it also spans in place went on satisfac- central span, which actually promises great wealth in gold. torily until toward the finish of crosses the gorge is suspended Magnificent Steel Bridges the third span in May. The ice from the first span by cantilever Everyone connected with the had been running for a week rigging attached thereto. When railroad is proud of the fine steel past, moving two or three inches the gorge or central span was bridges that were erected under each day, and had at various completed, the wedges in the most trying climatic conditions, times seriously interfered with cantilever rigging were slacked at a cost of over $2,500,000. the false work or trestling from off, permitting the span to settle From the very start it was gener- which the men were working. in place at its union with the ally known that the problem of Had the ice carried away this third span on the other side of bridging the Copper River from piling and frame work it would the gorge. Engineer O’Neel was the foot of Glacier Lake and the have been impossible to have compelled to work his men edge of Child’s Glacier, was one completed the bridge that sea- much of the time with the ther- of the most perplexing problems son. But fortune favored the mometer 20 to 45 degrees below and hazardous feats that the brave efforts of a heroic class of zero. management had to contend steel workers and when the The Flag Point bridge at mile with. Two abutments and three break came two days later the 27 is 1,300 feet in length. It was piers were decided on to support time of danger had passed. The completed in August, 1909. Al- the necessary 1,550 feet of steel. last span was built over a portion most a continuation of this With the current rushing past at of the river that is distant from bridge is the Round Island struc- a reckless rate of speed and car- the main channel and was not ture at mile 28. It is 560 feet in rying the immense icebergs, affected by the floating ice. It length and was completed in which find their way out of the was completed in June, 1910. May, 1909. These two bridges lake, the problem of bridging the The total cost of the bridge were built at a cost of $560,000. river proved a most difficult one. was about $1,500,000. In the The Hot Cake bridge at mile 34 Work was started on the first construction of the two abut- is 525 feet long. It was finished caisson in April, 1909. In build- ments and three caissons about in November, 1909. The steel in ing it a railroad track was laid 18,000 cubic yards of concrete the five bridges weighs over over the ice, and a monster pile were used, while in the bridge 20,000,000 pounds. driver, resting on the ice, drove there are 5,000,000 pounds of The construction of the steel the piles necessary to support steel. bridges was done directly by the the wave of the caisson. In early The work of crossing the Katalla Company, while the May when the caisson was ready Kuskulana gorge, 238 feet high, wooden bridges and trestles were to slip into place the ice began was staged October 23, 1910, built by Contractor Heney. to break and it was necessary to and completed the following Wooden Bridges, Trestles carry on the work by means of an Christmas day. This bridge con- and Snow Sheds aerial tramway. In placing the sists of three half-camel back Between Cordova and Chi- other caissons in the middle of spans and is 500 feet long being tina there are 129 bridges, with the stream by the aid of com- three spans of 150, 200 and 150 a length of 42,988 feet, or 8.15 pressed air, huge icebergs were feet. The construction of this miles, which were built at a cost continually careening and bump- bridge presented difficulties not of $590,000. The longest bridge ing the sides of the caissons. heretofore encountered in the is across the Copper River just But this work was finished other steel bridges of the road. beyond Chitina, at mile 132. It is and the piers completed that The extraordinary height of the 2,790 feet long, or a little more summer, followed by the placing structure, together with the than a half mile. The Gilahina of the false work, which permit- swiftness of the water in the bridge is 890 feet long, from ted the setting on and riveting of chasm that it spans, rendered eighty to ninety feet high and the steel pieces so soon as they the erection of false work infeasi- was built in eight days. ble. These conditions necessitat- were received in the spring of The superintendent of bridg- ed constructing the bridge by 1910. The work of putting the es is P. J. O’Brien and he made the cantilever trick. That is, the PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 many notable records in the con- and Chitina, the service of which ing the coal question into struction of wooden bridges and is unexcelled on the standard rail- consideration in the construction trestles. With the thermometer ways in the states, insuring appe- of a railroad. Work was suspended always down to zero and as far tizing meals in comfort at all at Valdez and Mr. Rogers directed below as 50 degrees, Mr. O’Brien hours. his attention to Katella and the completed 6,700 feet in thirty- Alaska Syndicate. Copper River country. It was then decided to build from Katella, in five days, after the 7th of January The men who have financed preference to Valdez or Cordova, last, working on an average of the Copper River & Northwestern active work starting in the early forty-eight men. Railway are M. Guggenheim Sons and J. Pierpont Morgan, with their spring of 1907. Efforts to con- In order to protect the friends. They formed a combina- struct a breakwater and secure a tracks from snow slides and tion for working purposes, known suitable harbor at Katalla soon drifting snow 3,030 feet of sub- as the Alaska Syndicate. The first met with unsatisfactory results, stantial sheds were built. These purchase for $3,000,000 of min- after trestles had been built, ten sheds were built at a cost of ing claims, including the Bonanza miles of grading done and eight $101,000. mine at Kennecott, 196 miles into miles of track laid. Equipment of Railroad the interior, made necessary the In June, 1907, the Syndicate Everything is of the most mod- building of a railroad to reach this secured the services of E. C. ern and substantial character and property. After having experts ex- Hawkins, formerly chief engineer includes 15 locomotives, eight amine the many mining claims of the White Pass & Yukon rail- coaches, 256 cars, four steam that were then located by various road. He came north on July first shovels, two rotary ploughs, one individuals and companies in what to study the whole situation. For wrecking crane, track driver, two is known as the Copper River dis- over three months he tramped spreaders, one dozer, all of which trict, a conclusion was reached over the various suggested routes were purchased at a cost of that sufficient tonnage would be for reaching the Bonanza mines. $750,000. This motive power runs available soon after the comple- He held in mind the necessity for over a standard gauge railroad tion of a railroad to warrant the starting at tide water at a com- with 70-pound rails to Chitina, construction of a standard gauge, mon point to tap both the copper and 60-pound rails on the Chitina high-class railroad. belt and the coal fields, with the branch to Kennecott. Native ties Several million dollars were lightest possible grade. He also have been used throughout, while spent in the effort to establish the desired an open harbor the year all of the track fittings, sidings, proper sea coast terminal. Finally round, with deep water and secure frogs, switches and other ap-stan- Cordova was decided upon as the anchorage, where a large fleet of dards. most desirable and feasible point vessels might be safely sheltered. The motive power was built by to reach the coal and copper Mr. Hawkins satisfied himself the American Locomotive Works fields. that Cordova offered more advan- and includes several consolidation Preliminary Work on C. R. & tages than any other point, even engines of most modern type, N. W. Railroad though the cost of constructing from there would be greater than equipped with electric headlights Engineer M. K. Rogers decided from some other port. He went to and used exclusively in the hauling that the cheapest route was north New York and at a meeting of the of passenger and mail trains. Two from Valdez, and in the spring of Syndicate in October, reported in snow rotaries are in constant read- 1905 he secured rights and start- favor of discontinuing work at oth- iness to give battle to the snow ed to build from Valdez. The diffi- er points and starting from Cordo- and prevent blockades. The rolling culties of getting through the va. The meeting decided on the stock is of the latest approved pat- canyon and the high grades neces- line from Cordova. tern, the freight cars ranging from sary in climbing the mountains sixty to one hundred thousand brought discouragement. On November 15, 1907, Mr. pounds capacity, with a large com- Hawkins was made chief engineer In the fall of 1905 the valuable plement of auxiliary cars for con- and general manager of the Katal- coal deposits of the Katalla fields struction and maintenance la Company, organized for the began to be generally discussed purposes. A table d’hote dining purpose of constructing the rail- and the Alaska Syndicate was im- car service is maintained on all road, and which positions he con- pressed with the necessity of tak- passenger trains between Cordova tinues to hold. He was placed in WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 17 absolute charge of the engineer- the credit for the accomplishment As during his previous con- ing and construction work. of one of the greatest engineering tract Mr. Heney had as his first The first contract was for re- feats and best pieces of pioneer lieutenant Samuel Murchison. He building the old part of the Cop- construction ever attempted in has much of the same force and per River Railroad five miles out the United States. many of the characteristics of his from Cordova and new construc- In the operation of the Copper chief. When the absence and ill- tion to Abercrombie or mile 54. River & Northwestern Railway the ness of Mr. Heney required that he Track was laid to this point by Oc- resident officials are E. C. Hawk- assume full responsibility, Mr. tober 30, 1908, with the exception ins, chief engineer; J. R. Van Murchison never faltered, but took of the bridge crossing the river at Cleve, division superintendent and hold and labored with a fidelity mile 49. The next contract was to master mechanic; R. J. Barry, gen- and energy that endeared him to Tiekel, or mile 101, which was eral freight and passenger agent; his chief and won him the favor of completed on December 1, 1909. W. J. Ford, auditor; I. W. Young, all the employees. Since the death The road was completed to Chi- storekeeper; L. Wernicke, division of Mr. Heney the work has been tina, or mile 131, on September engineer. under the absolute direction of 12, 1910. Track was laid to Kusku- M. J. Heney, Contractor Mr. Murchison, and he has made for himself such a record as will lana, mile 149, October 23, and The contract for the grading, forever establish him as one of the the steel bridge across the river track laying and trestle work of foremost and successful railroad was completed December 25. The the railroad was awarded to M. J. builders of the country. trestle 880 feet long and from Heney, who had been the contrac- eighty to ninety feet high was tor for the White Pass & Yukon The Bonanza Mine built across the Gilahina River, railroad. Mr. Heney at once pro- The direct reason for the con- mile 160, in eight days, and trains ceeded to effect an organization struction of the Copper River & were running over it January 28. that was characteristic for its loy- Northwestern Railway was to reach For the rest of the distance the alty, strength and efficiency. He the mining property of the Kenne- actual track laying in the dead of surrounded himself, as heads of cott Mines Company, which had winter and over ice and snow pro- the different departments, with been acquired by the Alaska Syndi- gressed at the rate of nearly a mile men of experience and exceptional cate for a consideration of per day not including the building ability, who soon justified his wis- $3,000,000. This property now of trestle, until the end of the line dom by proving themselves able consists of thirty-two lode claims was reached on the afternoon of and faithful, remaining loyal unto and eighteen placer claims, em- March 28, 1911. the end. bracing a total acreage of 3,240 The Katalla Company and Mr. Heney was in the wreck of acres. Practically the only develop- Railway the steamer Ohio in August, 1909, ment was on the Bonanza group, This company was formed for but later proceeded to Cordova which had $6,000,000 of rich cop- the purpose of constructing the and directed and labored with his per ore in sight. But it was appar- railroad. Certain contracts were old-time energy, until he left for ent from the start that the awarded to M. J. Heney on a per- the states on December 6, 1909. Syndicate would not be justified in centage basis, while the construc- He proceeded to New York, but building a standardized modern tion of the steel bridges and soon returned to California, where railway to carry the tonnage of certain other work after the con- his weakened condition developed their own property. They realized tractor had turned over a complet- into pneumonia and heart trouble, the prospective development of ed division, was performed by the from which he died October 11, many greater producers on claims Katalla Company. Of this company 1910. The thousands of men who close to the railroad and so decid- S. W. Eccles, of New York is presi- were in his employ grieved and ed to build a substantial and per- dent, while E. C. Hawkins is vice- mourned over his death with such manent road, in the belief that president and general manager. deep feeling and sincerity as is development would give ample To Mr. Hawkins was given seldom witnessed in this genera- tonnage. practically absolute authority on tion. But to all M. J. Heney was a The Bonanza mine is located matters of construction, that in- friend, and not a taskmaster. He upon a high ridge between Kenne- volved the expenditures of many was loved and respected by all his cott glacier and McCarthy creek. millions of dollars. To Mr. Hawk- men and the public generally. It is six miles above the foot of ins, more than anyone man, is due the glacier and three miles from PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 the town of Kennecott, where the The sawmill also furnished the used for penholders, and a pick concentrator and ore bins are lo- lumber for a two-story addition to and shovel acting as a backholder. cated. The mine is 1,500 feet the main office or headquarters, a One of the hardest worked and above the timber line, at an eleva- new cottage, another bunkhouse, most conscientious officials in the tion of about 4,500 feet, with a with sleeping, reading, sitting and service of the Copper River & good trail leading to it. The ore is bathrooms for twenty men, and a Northwestern Railway is J. R. Van practically pure chalcocite or cop- warehouse. In addition to the Cleve, superintendent and master per glance, and is stained upon erection of buildings around the mechanic. His ability and energy the surface by copper carbonates. Bonanza property, a dam is being are towers of strength in the oper- Comparatively little work has as constructed across National creek ating of the new railroad. yet been done in the development near the end of the tramway for A half million tons of steel of the mine. There are about the purpose of furnishing a suffi- rails have been laid since January 1,000 feet of tunneling and 150 cient head of water to operate the 7. feet of raise. Possibly 2,000 tons machinery for the crushers and When the Katella branch line of ore has been taken out, most of concentrators, as well as furnish- is constructed from mile 39, the which will run 65 per cent, and ing power for the electric and distance from the coal mines to some higher, in copper. steam plants to be installed. Cordova will be 93 miles. The ore is conveyed by a three The general manager of the Any timber cut by the railroad mile tram to the concentrator and Kennecott Mining Company is Ste- up to mile 89 had to be paid for, ore bins. Ore is now being sacked, phen Birch. The superintendent is as it was within the government preparatory to shipment over the E. B. Emory, who formerly worked reserve. Practically the only avail- railroad to Cordova, from whence for the Guggenheims in Mexico. able timber in the entire reserve is it will be taken to the Tacoma Some Interesting Facts near mile 13, where there is fine smelter. It is expected that the About fifteen per cent of the native spruce, which was largely ore will run over $200 per ton and railroad is composed of bridges used for ties and piling. With this that 1,500 tons will net $300,000. and trestles. exception a selected quality of When the smelter return is an- The railroad is on a water Puget Sound Douglas fir was used nounced within two or three grade from Cordova to Chitina. for all timber work. Three and weeks, it is believed that the high On the Chitina branch to the end one-third cents for each tie cut value of the ore, and in much of the line except two pusher was paid to the government. great quantities, will startle the grades, the maximum is 1.15 per mining world. And it certainly will When the railroad reached 100 feet. prove a stimulus to prospectors mile 54 a steamboat landing was and those who are at present in- Joe Redmond, chief black- established and until the end of terested in the Kotsina-Chitina smith for the contractor, fash- last season three steamers, the copper belt to exert greater effort ioned the copper spike that was Tonsina, Chitina and Nizina, were in the discovery of valuable prop- driven at the end of the road by used to transport freight and sup- erties and the development of General Manager Hawkins, of the plies for the railroad up the river. those already acquired. Katalla Company, and General The cost was $1.07 per ton per Superintendent Samuel Murchi- mile. The cost of building these Last year the Kennecott Mines son., of the contracting company. steamers was $215,000. Company took in over the trail the It was cut from a solid piece of machinery for a sawmill. After that During the summer of 1909 native copper, taken from the bed was established sufficient lumber the ferryboat Gulkana was used to of Chittitu creek, a stream near was cut to supply the 200,000 feet transfer supplies from the railroad the Bonanza mine. The spike was necessary for the erection of a at camp 49 across the Copper Riv- afterward drawn and will be prop- large concentrator building 44 er to connect with the rails. Until erly inscribed and sent by Mr. feet wide of six stories of benches the Miles Glacier bridge was com- Hawkins to the head office in New ranging from 16 to 22 feet. Other pleted last summer, the supplies York, as the first return received construction consists of tram ter- were taken across on scows drawn from an investment of over forty minals, transfer bunkers, ore by cables and donkey engines. million dollars. Mr. Redmond also chutes and 375 feet of snow sheds presented Mr. Hawkins as a per- between the mine and ore bins. sonal memento, a copper horse- shoe with nails projecting to be WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 19 100th Anniversary of the Mother Lode Road

With the completion of the "This spur will be construct- railroad from McCarthy to tide- ed as soon as sufficient tonnage he Mother Lode Road, water, the Mother Lode Copper is exposed. In the meantime a known today as the Mining Company of Alaska as- wagon road has been construct- McCarthy Creek-Green sured prospective investors that ed from the railroad junction at T the Copper River & Northwest- the crossing of McCarthy Creek Butte Road, the historic access to the Marvelous Millsite and ern Railroad would one day con- up to the Mother Lode Camp." Mother Lode Mine lower camp, struct a connecting spur line. The road is known to have celebrates its 100th anniversary "The branch line up McCarthy had 19 bridges and 2 tunnels in this year. First described in a Creek to the point at which ore 1926. It can be assumed that 1901 USGS publication as these tunnels were built a trail which, “from Kenni- during the original road cott River...leads up McCa- construction with the rthy Creek, which stream anticipation that they it crosses several times would be needed for the below the mouth of Niko- railroad spur. They al- lai creek, coming in from lowed the route to be the east,” and marked as a near level and reduced trail on early topographi- creek impingements. cal maps, it was completed Mother Lode crews were as a wagon road in July certainly well supplied 1911. with dynamite and tun- John E. Barrett staked neling expertise. his homestead and mining With the July 1911 claims on McCarthy Creek completion of the Moth- in 1906. The following er Lode Road to McCa- year, he built his cabin, rthy, development of the and in 1908 continued to Mother Lode property develop his mining claims, could begin in earnest! called the Green Group At the time the wag- (Green Butte today). on road was completed, USGS Maps surveyed in The Chitina Leader re- 1907 and published in ported, “On the Mother 1908 clearly show trails Lode the ore is growing and encampments at richer every day, and the Mother Lode and Green 1939 USGS topographic map showing the Mother extent of the ore now in Butte. Lode Road. sight justifies the predic- In the winter of 1907, tion that this is going to be one of the best properties in construction of the Copper River bins will be constructed is ap- the district and a producer of & Northwestern Railroad proximately thirteen miles and the red metal second only to the (CR&NWRR) began to connect the branch line can be put in on Bonanza.” the port of Cordova to Kenne- a one percentage grade. The cott. On March 29, 1911, the ore, as mined, can then be In 1913, George E. Baldwin last railroad spike, of copper, dumped directly into the top of reported, "A tram 6,600 feet was driven and the first train ar- the ore bins where it will fall by long, which was manufactured in rived in Cordova on April 8, gravity into the cars. St. Louis and shipped to the 1911. claims, has been delivered on the PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 ground, along with 60,000 feet In 1914, digging at the to be hauled by teams for 12 of Washington fir and the crew Mother Lode began in earnest, miles from the tramway to the of ten men are now working to including driving a 3,400 foot railway at McCarthy. The break- install the tram that the ore cross-cut tunnel. Even though up came three weeks earlier this from the upper tunnels may be CR&NWRR officials assured God- year than heretofore, the last sent to the creek and later frey that a spur line to the Moth- shipment being a car-load that freighted to the railroad at the er Lode would be built not later was sent south on the last steam- mouth of the creek. than the summer of 1915, plans er. Mr. Godfrey left 30 men at "The engineers who have ex- were made to improve the Moth- work at the mines and they will amined the property claim that er Lode Road in order to place be engaged in clocking out and more than 8,000 tons of high into operation, "two of the most getting ore ready for shipment grade ore has been blocked out powerful auto trucks made, of a next winter. They have uncov- by the work done and that the capacity to haul 10 tons of ore ered large bodies of the high- success of the mine has been per trip, and make two trips a grade ore that it is expected will assured. day, thus insuring the transpor- place the Mother Lode on a par "The company will be on a tation of 40 tons of ore daily with the Bonanza and other shipping basis early this fall and from the Mother Lode, begin- great copper mines.” will continue shipments to Taco- ning July 15th." The CR&NWRR did not build ma all winter. The ore is of the These plans do not appear to the spur line by July 1915 and same grade as that shipped from have materialized since in Janu- the Mother Lode Copper Mines the Bonanza, and the claims join ary 1915, the Chitina Leader re- Company continued freighting the Guggenheim property." ported that a 250-ton shipment ore on the Mother Lode Road by The tram, the most modern of ore from the Mother Lode bob sled in the winter of 1916. in design, including an automat- copper mines is only the third in The plans to improve the ic loader, was completed that three seasons by this company road for automotive transport September. and brings the total up to a little were finally realized. In the sum- more than 640 tons. James J. Godfrey, president mer of 1918, “Mr. Nels Tjosevig of the Mother Lode Copper Godfrey, who was at the entertained a party of guests last Mines Co. said that "it works like property, stated that he hoped Sunday, conveying them to the a charm." "Work is now being to ship out an additional 1,000 Mother Lode horse camp in au- directed toward improving the tons before the winter is over. tomobiles, where a dinner was road from the end of the tram to The difficulty is not in taking out served in Jack Ericson's best McCarthy creek. This will com- the ore from the mine but to style, with chickens from the plete the easy transportation of transport it over a wagon road farm and everything in keeping. ore from the mine to the rail- from the end of the tram to the After a very pleasant visit the road. Two years ago a good wag- railroad at McCarthy. “That is party motored back to town in on road was built about 12 miles slow and tedious work, but Presi- time for the show.” along McCarthy creek to the dent Godfrey and his efficient In the summer of 1919, a five town of McCarthy. It is expected force are working with their ac- ton truck made regular trips dai- to ship out 500 tons of high customed energy to secure the ly to the Lower Mother Lode grade copper ore this winter." best possible results while the Camp, bringing in full loads of ground is frozen.” In January 1914, the first ore sacks. Work was also begin- shipment of ore, about six hun- In March, the Chitina Leader ning to pick up at the other site dred tons sacked, was hauled further reports, “During the past along the road, the Green Butte. from the foot of the Mother Lode winter considerable high grade The McCarthy Weekly News re- tramway to the railroad at McCa- copper ore has been shipped to ported in every issue, “A Fifteen rthy where it would be taken to the Tacoma smelter. But the mile run by automobile brings Cordova then shipped to the breaking up of the trails has pre- you to the Mother Lode mines, smelter in Tacoma. vented any further shipments an extensive property now em- until next winter, as the ore has ploying upwards of 50 men, and WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 21 with untold NOTICE RATES wealth of ore in FOR CAR HIRE sight. The power McCarthy to Kenne- plant and ware- cott $5.00 house of the McCarthy to Nicolai Mother Lode are $7.50 located in McCa- McCarthy to Green rthy. The Green Butte $10.00 Group, which is 5 McCarthy to Moth- miles nearer town, er Lode $15.00 is steadily forging Waiting Time ahead as a big Per Hour $1.50 producer.” In June 1923, In May 1919, Photo courtesy of Dick Anderson and Eleanor Tjosevig. Horse drawn sleds hauling Green Butte copper ore down the Mother the Green Butte ownership and Lode Road to the CR&NW Railroad at the McCarthy depot (c. 1925). shipped a carload of management of ore but found trans- the Mother Lode portation a problem. Mines was sold to Returning from the Green Group Starting in late July, the Mother Lode Coalition Mines by automobile, J. E. Barrett was forest fires threatened to destroy Company. Horse teams were exercised in his mind as to the the bridges on the Mother Lode sold and men laid off as a tunnel safety of the bridges against the route. A month later, fires were connecting the Mother Lode heavy logs and trees which were still raging along the trail in spite mines to the Kennecott side being carried down and at Mile 6 of efforts to subdue them. would make it possible for all Bridge found a heavy jam. Oscar work to be done from the Kenne- Bachman who was also in the par- cott end. The tunnel connecting ty, volunteered to go down and the two mines was completed in chop out the debris, which he did, after first being fortified with a July 1919. sling of ropes. He moved the logs The road, however, was still and roots, and was almost swept very much in use. In 1919, after a away before he could be pulled up. dance at the Merchant's Café in The filling from the piers of two McCarthy, "some of the guests bridges had been washed out, and were entertained by Jimmy Hussey from the abutments of three in an automobile ride. Jimmy is more. Three of the bridges are one chauffeur. He made the settling." A crew of men and a Mother Lode boulevard a speed- team were put to work to make way." In 1920, a perhaps more repairs. sedate party of Kennecott ladies In May 1922 John Barrett is was reported to have enjoyed an again found repairing the road auto ride several miles up the from the camp to town as it was in Mother Lode road in 1920. bad shape. Meanwhile, construc- Nature took its toll. In May tion was progressing rapidly at the 1921, John Barrett was road mak- Green Butte. Tents were erected ing and clearing slides on the for cook and bunk houses at both Mother Lode Road. In June, Mc- the upper and lower camps. Sev- Carthy Creek ran the highest in eral teams were hauling lumber several years due to the bursting and supplies from McCarthy to the of an underground lake at the camp by wagon. Photo courtesy of Dick Anderson and Eleanor head of the glacier. "The water Tjosevig. Car hire was available as evi- raised six feet in a very short time Tjosevig Model T emerging from the denced by this 1922 ad in the Mc- and continued for several hours. south end of Tunnel #2 on the Moth- Carthy Weekly News: er Lode Road (c. 1925-1928). PAGE 22 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

By November 1923, the road greatly damaged the road and its November 11, 1938, the last train was in good working order and repair was undertaken by the com- left Kennecott for Cordova. well used by the Green Butte mission. The road is passable for However, that is not the end of which was completing construc- motor traffic." The ARC spent the story of the Mother Lode tion of an office and both the dor- $373.87 on the road in 1931 and Road. mitory on the hill and quarters at $1141.26 in 1933. A 1938 USGS Bulletin states, the lower camp for housing 50 The Great Depression of 1928- "In the Nizina district, a road . . . men. 30 caused a rapid decline in the 13 Miles long follows McCarthy Hopes for a railroad spur line demand for copper. Copper prices creek to the old Mother Lode up McCarthy Creek still remained fell from 13.3 cents per pound to camp. This road was constructed high. Mr. James Gaskill, manager 5 cents. Production was cut back, privately but is now controlled by of the Green Butte mine reported, miners were laid off, and explora- the Alaska road commission "The mine is being rapidly devel- tion for new ore bodies was In 1966, Walter Wigger pur- oped to the point where it will be- stopped. A major railroad bridge chased the Mother Lode mine gin paying dividends in spite of was washed away in a severe storm from the State of Alaska. Neil the fact the company has a long in the fall of 1932, suspending rail MacKinnon reported in 2003 that wagon haul on top of the rail and shipments for two years. The in June 1970, "the upper part of water charges. Without a doubt mines reopened in 1935 with a the road was easily passable for there will be a spur put up McCa- greatly reduced crew. vehicles...No brush or alders in the rthy creek in a short time if pres- Populist Alaskan politicians center or sides for that matter. ent indications of the mine had long encouraged a climate of The only problem points came develop properly." hostility to the Morgan-Guggen- where the creek had meandered to In the mid-1920s, travel over heim Alaska Syndicate that had cut into the road and one had to the road by automobile appears to developed the CR&NWRR and the either cross to the other side or be pretty much wade the year round as the creek...On two gossipy McCarthy other occasions publication, Our in July of 1970 I Town, reports of traveled up the friends overnight- McCarthy Creek ing at the Green road. One trip Butte and having was in the lodge an enjoyable trip, jeep and a sec- or tells of the ond time in an comings and go- old military am- ings of the Nels bulance. Both Tjosevig family, had four wheel who have a claim drive and we had just beyond the WSEN staff photo to at times drive Green Butte, as McCarthy residents caravan up the McCarthy-Green Butte road, April 11, through and they visit friends 2003, in protest of NPS closure notices. NPS Rangers were in town, but across the creek. or take a holiday. no citations were given. Other than at The Alaska Road Commission those points it was a good road (ARC) began maintaining the road copper mines. Many believed the and easily passable." in 1929. Its 1929 annual report Syndicate had concluded its in- 1973 photos of Wigger's D-5 shows that it spent $1,804.55 on vestments were not welcome in Cat, trailer, and pickups at the the route. ARC states: "This route Alaska. Kennecott had acquired Mother Lode property also show extends from McCarthy up the copper mines in Chile, Arizona that vehicles and equipment had McCarthy creek valley to the and Utah that were easier and been driven up the McCarthy Green Butte mine. It was built by cheaper to operate, and in 1937, Creek-Green Butte Road. The the mining company and main- it was decided to close its Alaskan well-known truck that is found tained by them previous to last operations the following year. On along the road today was driven year. A flood in the fall of 1927 within two miles of Green Butte in WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 23

1973. Photos from a trip made by plies from McCarthy over the road national, and even international, Eleanor Tjosevig, Charlie and In- by Wigger and others continued to media. This was particularly ludi- ger Ricci, and Mr. Anderson in be used on the road. The Hales crous considering the near 100- 1974 document bridges which drove a Bombardier ORV track year history of use (most of it by were still in place or girder bridg- machine over the road to town in heavy industry), including the es installed by Wigger. In Septem- the summer of 2002 with no ob- presence of two intended railroad ber 1980, a “100-year flood” jection by the Park Service. The tunnels. wiped out twin beam bridges and road was passable without any The reality that the family's abutments along the McCarthy- clearing and only alders brushing access was being shut off upset Green Butte Road. against the vehicle were trimmed many in the community. Further- On December 1, 1978, Alas- back. After a fire burned down more, the precedent for extin- kans were shocked when a Presi- their home in the winter of 2002, guishing a key provision in dential proclamation created the family took the bulldozer to ANILCA's promise of access to Wrangell-St Elias and nine other town to haul back building and properties throughout the state National Monuments. After two construction supplies. was immediately recognized. In years of turmoil in Alaska, on De- Despite open access to private protest, locals took vehicles, in- cember 2, 1980, the Alaska Na- property being enshrined in ANIL- cluding a bulldozer, and went up tional Interest Lands Conservation CA — the long-term use of the the disputed trail. Act (ANILCA) was signed into law Mother Lode Road since 1911, Fortunately, wiser manage- and the Wrangell-St Elias National and its being originally construct- ment on the part of NPS seems Park and Preserve was created. ed 92 years earlier to serve the now to be taking place. ANILCA The ANILCA compromise guaran- Hale's Mother Lode property — on access provisions are currently teed access to all mines and prop- April 11, 2003, the National Park being worked out by the NPS on erties in the new parks. Service closed the road, declaring dozens of access roads throughout In April 2002, the Hale family in a notice that “the route created Alaskan parks. Hopefully one day purchased the Mother Lode mine by the bulldozer is not a park road soon the public will again be able from Walter Wigger. Equipment or designated route.” The NPS to use and enjoy the McCarthy (ORV's, bulldozers, trailers, etc.) allowed the false implication that Creek - Green Butte - Mother that had been used in transport- the Hales had bulldozed a new Lode Road as it begins its second ing building and other bulky sup- road through a pristine national century of service! park to propagate throughout the Alaska’s delegation says “No More Wilderness!” Sen. Mark Begich, D-Alaska: Salazar recently assured laska’s congressional “The Alaska delegation is in sol- members of the delegation that delegation sent a let- id agreement that there’s no the administration had no plans Ater to Interior Secre- need for additional wilderness to violate the “no more” clause tary Ken Salazar reminding him designations. Any attempt to of the Alaska National Interest of his promise not to designate tinker with the ‘no more’ policy Lands Conservation Act and des- new wilderness areas in Alaska will inevitably run into serious ignate new wilderness or place without the support of the opposition from Alaskans.” similar restrictions on the use of state’s elected representatives. Rep. Don Young, R-Alaska: “I public land in Alaska without Sen. Lisa Murkowski, R-Alas- will work with the delegation to congressional support. But in ka: “I want to be unequivocally do everything in our power to press coverage of a speech Sala- clear, there is no support from stop the designation of new wil- zar delivered last week to the the Alaska delegation or the derness areas in Alaska. Doing so Wilderness Society, the secretary state of Alaska for any new legis- would completely disregard the was quoted as saying the admin- lative or administrative wilder- compromises designed in ANIL- istration looked forward to ness designations.” CA, and we will fight it tooth and “additional administrative action nail.” on Bristol Bay.” PAGE 24 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 Kennecott Operations Plan in draft mode he National Park Ser- repair the two most iconic build- At the May 26th McCarthy Area vice (NPS) is proposing ings in the Kennecott Mines Na- Council meeting, Bruce Rogers, Tto revise the 2001 In- tional Historic Landmark: the NPS Planner, encouraged the terim Operations Plan for the 14-story Concentration Mill and community to take an active role Kennecott Mines National His- the 23,000 square foot Leach in leading the review process. toric Landmark (NHL). The In- Plant. The NPS also plans to The comment period ends Au- terim Operations Plan was abate known hazardous asbestos; gust 31st, 2011. written to develop management install fire protection; and re- If you need a copy, Electron- strategies for the NPS at the place a deficient potable water ic versions of this proposed ac- Kennecott National Historic system. tion package are available at the Landmark in the Wrangell-St. The revision of the Interim following locations: Elias National Park and Preserve. Operation Plan will be accompa- The National Park Service Such a plan became necessary nied by an Environmental Assess- Planning, Environmental and when the NPS acquired the pri- ment (EA). The EA will consider Public Comment (PEPC) website vately owned site in June 1998. the environmental effects of a at: The Kennecott site, mined for its range of alternative actions pro- http://parkplanning.nps.gov/wrst. copper in the early 1900s, is in posed within the revision. The Wrangell-St. Elias Na- the center of the park, approxi- The draft for the Proposed tional Park and Preserve website mately 5 miles from where the Action for Management of Ken- at: McCarthy Road ends at the Ken- necott Mines National Historic nicott River. The NPS acquired Landmark is now available for http://www.nps.gov/wrst/parkmgmt/ 2,839 acres, including much of community review. This docu- planning.htm the historic mill town, the sub- ment is the result of the NPS The Friends of Kennicott surface rights to the mine, and work and public comments so far website at: the surrounding natural area. on the possible actions to be in- http://www.friendsofkennicott.org. The 2001 Interim Operations cluded in the Kennecott Manage- Or if you need a hard copy, Plan was intended to provide ment Plan. The call or email Bruce Rogers at guidance for management of the McCarthy-Kennicott community 822-7276, or NHL for a five-year period. A revi- is encouraged to review this doc- [email protected]. sion is needed to document the ument over the summer and sub- Local community contact is work that has been accom- mit their comments or opinions Elizabeth Schafer at 907-960- plished at the site in the last 10 to NPS. Several meetings will be 1014, or [email protected]. years and to address new issues. held this season to discuss the Comments on this proposed A revised plan will describe NPS proposed actions and help for- action package may be submit- goals for management of the site mulate revisions to the proposed ted to the park in writing at: and will present the NPS vision plan or come up with alternative Bruce Rogers, Wrangell-St. Elias and specific recommendations actions. These alternatives will National Park and Preserve, PO for structural stabilization, cir- be included in an Environmental Box 439, Copper Center, Alaska, culation and access, vegetation Assessment (EA) this fall. 99573. Comments may be management, interpretation, Elizabeth Schafer is the local emailed to Bruce or Elizabeth at and partnerships. Included un- NPS liaison and is available to above emails. Comments may der structural stabilization will answer any questions or take also be submitted electronically be the proposal to stabilize and comments from the community. on the PEPC site. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 25 Gilahina Fire

The State of Alaska Division June 4th. A Remote Access n the early evening of of Forestry and the National Weather Station (RAWS) was set May 31st, the McCa- Park Service managed the fire up on the Gilahina fire in a Orthy area experienced cooperatively. Firefighters burned area. The station provid- a rather sudden change of scen- worked to stop the fire from ed current data about weather ery. Along with an increase of moving into the full manage- conditions on the fire. Another southerly winds, a strong smell ment option. Aviation dropped RAWS was installed in the Laki- of smoke and extreme smoky two loads of water and at the end na drainage. of the day, good progress was conditions filled our valley. Visi- On Sunday morning, the 5th made. bility was cut dramatically. of June, The Whiskeytown The telephone rang at 5:45 Mark Keogh, NPS public in- (California) Fire Use Module ar- pm. My neighbor, Audrey Ed- formation officer, from park rived to assume responsibility for wards, stated her concern with headquarters in Copper Center monitoring the fire. The special- the possibility the smoke we began Emailing regular fire up- ly trained 8-person crew also de- were experiencing was not from dates to many in the veloped long-range plans for the distant fires of Delta and McCarthy/Kennicott area. On possible fire scenarios. The Noor- Fairbanks, but a fire nearby. We June 3rd he reported that “the vik #1 crew was flown off the decided to contact Stephens Gilahina Fire had burned approx- fireline and reassigned to work Harper, local park service rang- imately 1,438 acres. (Improved on the Hastings Fire, 15 miles er. mapping later showed the fire northwest of Fairbanks. Stephens confirmed Audrey’s burned over 1,200 acres). Cooler On Monday the fire contin- assessment. This was a recent temperatures, higher humidity ued to burn, but with little in- fire, discovered by local pilot Ja- and subsiding winds slowed the crease in visible smoke and no son Lobo, at 11:00 pm the night fire behavior to smouldering and increase in acreage. creeping with isolated areas of of May 30th while he was out fly- The Whiskeytown crew also torching on the northeast perim- ing. At the time of discovery it assessed the fuels around the eter. The fire remains north of was considered a “small fire and Gilahina Trestle which is consid- the Gilahina River.” smouldering.” Due to continued ered an historic structure. The hot and dry temperatures, the The Gannite Glacier, Noorvik crew began cutting some of the fire grew to 400 acres by 3 pm Type 2 and Heltak crews were on overgrown vegetation around the the fire, secured the southwest on May 31st . trestle, making it less likely a flank, and closely monitored fire The location was described fire would reach it. activity. It was reported that the as 20 miles west of McCarthy The firefighters were re- fire was burning in a limited and 6 ½ miles north of the Gila- leased from the fire on June 13th management option where, ac- hina trestle, near Mile 30 of the after completing their assign- cording to the park service, McCarthy Road, within the ments. Aerial observers are regu- “fire occurrence is essential to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park larly flying the fire to watch for the long-term ecological health and Preserve, mostly in a wilder- changes in activity. of the land.” ness area. The Park Service as- The McCarthy Road re- Although gusty winds hit the sessed the cause of the fire as mained open and McCarthy and Copper River Basin the next day, “Natural—lightning caused.” Kennecott were not threatened the cooler, humid weather con- Prior to the fire’s discovery, by the Gilahina Fire. There were tinued to restrict fire growth. neighbors living near Mile 35 no park closures or restrictions The Gannite Glacier Type 2 ini- recalled hearing sounds of thun- related to the fire. tial attack crew was released on der. PAGE 26 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 Fire is a natural part of the boreal forest ecosystem

around them is wet enough not zealous firefighting in the past ith their mushroom to burn. Larger animals move combined with recent warm and clouds topped with fast enough to escape slow-mov- dry conditions. Until the late W cauliflower crowns, ing wildfires typical of the boreal 1980s, Alaska policy was plumes from wildfire smoke are forest, he said. “immediate suppression of all again a common sight in Interior “I’ve seen pictures of deer wildfires,” according to the Alas- Alaska, which — with barely a and elk being caught in fires ka Interagency Wildland Fire sprinkle of rain — just experi- down south, but I’ve never heard Management Plan. That strategy enced one of the driest Mays in of anyone seeing a moose get- preserved black spruce, the final the 100-year written record. ting killed by fire,” he said. “In stage of the boreal forest in Though it’s a normal human most cases, wildlife has a chance many areas of the Interior. Black reaction to think of wildfire as a to move on.” spruce waits out other tree spe- bad thing, fire’s occurrence on Even if voles and red squir- cies, pops up in the understory, the landscape predates the arriv- rels die in a large hot fire, their grows slowly, and stays anchored al of people to the boreal forest surviving relatives fill the empty in cool soil unless the forest by a long shot. The forest niche in the months following. burns, is cut down, gets chewed doesn’t function well without it. The greenery that pops up after up by river ice or meets some In researching the topic, I came a fire is often a better home for other fate. The resilient black across a previous interview with small animals than spruce trees spruce is the most flammable Tom Paragi, a wildlife biologist over moss over permafrost, Para- tree in the boreal forest; one fire with the Alaska Department of gi said. official called it “gasoline on a Fish and Game in Fairbanks. “The net effect of fire (on stick.” Paragi’s specialty is the ecol- most animal numbers) is a posi- “If you keep putting out all ogy of disturbances to the boreal tive,” Paragi said. the fires, there’s no breaking up forest, among them logging and The reported areas of Alaska of these large expanses of the effects of wildland fires. The fires can be misleading, too, Par- spruce,” Paragi said. “Fires can following is from a column I agi said. When the Alaska Fire get dangerously big really fast.” wrote in 2006 with him on the Service reports the maximum Biologists like Paragi team subject of wildfires. perimeter of a large fire, about with state fire managers to stage I told Tom that the word two-thirds of the area inside that controlled burns to break up “ravaged” came to mind when I perimeter usually burns, he said. large patches of spruce and to walked through a burned spruce A pilot, Paragi has flown over stimulate new growth favored by forest and saw the charred bones parts of Alaska after fires and moose, grouse, and other ani- of red squirrels. He countered by has seen a patchwork of muskeg, mals. saying that red squirrels have mature forest, and neon bright “Generally, fire is a positive the unfortunate tendency to greens sprouting from blackened thing for the nutrient cycling of seek shelter in spruce trees areas. the boreal forest,” he said. when something threatens them. “You have this tremendous “After a June fire, I’ve seen Other small mammals, such as mosaic out there,” he said. waist-high willow sprouts by fall. voles on the forest floor, might Paragi said the large acreage We’ve also burned aspen in May survive a fire because the soil burned recently in Alaska has and had sprouts well over my partly been the result of over- head by hunting season.” This column is provided as a public service by the Geophysical Institute, University of Alaska Fairbanks, in cooperation with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell is a science writer at the institute.

"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect every one who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined." --Patrick Henry WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 27 Review: Fourth John Denver Tribute memoration of this year’s 100th Trains. In the song, a little girl n enthusiastic capacity anniversary of the completion of dreams of trains and finds magi- crowd filled the Recre- the Kennecott to Cordova rail- cal proof that ghost trains still Aation Hall in Kenne- road. ride the rails. cott, Alaska for the community’s In a new twist to the tribute Popular local favorites Re- Fourth John Denver Tribute on concert, a Valdez family present- becca Boniek and Gaia Thur- June 17. The evening included a ed multi-media interpretations ston-Shaine outdid themselves in potluck social, movie clip show- of Denver’s tunes Grandma’s duet and with other musicians. ing, and over two hours of Feather Bed and Sunshine on My Boniek’s Wild Montana Skies Denver’s music performed by a Shoulders. Kelly, Kathryn, and brought the audience to its feet. dozen local musicians and art- Trevor Hawkins digitally-pro- Thurston-Shaine’s strong vocals ists. led the concert sing- In 1975 Denver a-long finale of was in Denver’s Wrangell McCarthy/Kenneco Mountain Song, his tt filming a docu- tribute to the 1975 mentary movie visit here. project with ABC Other musicians Television telecast contributing their in 1977 as, talents to the con- “Alaska: America’s cert were Ben Quat- Child.” The Tribute tlebaum and Scott audience was treat- Mitchell noted for ed to a clip of the their bluegrass ver- movie showing sions of popular Denver with local Denver tunes. Joe residents at the McDonald once McCarthy Lodge Photo courtesy Dave Hollis again impressed the and a comic chase Veteran Kennecott John Denver Tribute performer Paul Hanis mes- audience with his sequence in the merized the crowd with his electronic piano performance of My bluesy version of Sweet Lady. historic Kennecott Leaving on a Jet Mill. Plane. Denver died in the crash of duced, visually-appealing pro- The Kennecott John Denver his experimental aircraft near grams were warmly received by Tributes were created and are Monterey, California in 1975. In the audience. presented annually by McCarthy a speech of tribute, Master of Tribute veteran Paul Hanis resident Dave Hollis and Ceremonies Terry C. Blosser not- returned to the Kennecott stage Wrangell Mountain Air shuttle ed, “Denver’s melodies and lyrics with an electronic piano instead driver Terry C. Blosser, assisted touched the human heartstrings. of his guitar. He thrilled the au- by the generous contributions of The clarity of his soaring tenor dience with emotionally-touch- many community volunteers. voice assured us we could live in ing performances of Song for the The grass-roots event is part harmony with nature and each Life, Eagle and Hawk, and My of the Arts and Lectures Series other.” Sweet Lady. of the Wrangell Mountains Cen- A strong line-up of local mu- Kennecott Glacier Lodge’s ter and the National Park Ser- sicians entertained the audience Merry Minstrels led by Chef Phil vice, and is traditionally with broad range of Denver’s mu- Gleichman sang, danced, and presented the Friday before sic. There were several perfor- pantomimed three lively songs Summer Solstice. mances of songs from Denver’s including Denver’s nostalgic rail- album of railroad songs in com- road ballad, Jenny Dreamed of PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 Letter from WRST Superintendent Meg Jensen

ear Members of the Award for Cultural Resource we determine there is a safety Kennecott/McCarthy Stewardship through Mainte- hazard to our visitors. The park DCommunity; nance. During the ceremony will also contract out the remov- Wrangell St Elias National back east, Jim said: “Seeing the al of bunker C oil in the piping Park and Preserve is gearing up results of this ongoing preserva- and utilidors associated with the for the 2011 season. Looks like tion work is a highlight of my Power Plant. The park is hosting it is going to be busy and I have career. I would not have re- a public meeting May 19, 2011 heard from several of our tour- ceived this award without the at 11:30 am at the Tony Zak ism partners that visitation to moral and technical support of Community Center in McCarthy the area will significantly in- staff at the Alaska Regional Of- to review and discuss all our crease this year. fice, my Kennecott crews, and projects for the 2011 season. We Our operations in Kennecott the staff at Wrangell-St. Elias encourage you to attend. will reflect what is happening on National Park and Preserve.” We The park will begin work this the national level with the feder- are very excited that he received year on the NHL’s icon struc- al budget. The 2011 budget this significant national recogni- ture, the fourteen story mill looks okay, but there is a lot of tion on behalf of all the work our building. It is not too soon – uncertainty for 2012 and future crews have been doing in Kenne- level three had another cribbing years. The park reduced summer cott over the past ten years. blowout this winter. Our major hires by 25% this year. 74% of The park has several proj- stabilization project will begin in our summer seasonals are re- ects in the queue for the 2011 fiscal year 2012 for this building, hires who worked for the park season in the National Historic and is scheduled to be complet- last year, including sixteen main- Landmark (NHL). The Dairy ed in fiscal year 2016. This year, tenance staff in Kennecott. We Barn, Leach Plant and Trans- we are completing some initial are anticipating a 1.5% budget former building will see contin- work to test an anchoring meth- cut for the 2011 fiscal year, ued stabilization work including od for the structure in a small which began October 1, 2010. foundations, walls and roof as- portion of the building. This is This means that we will have to semblies. The crew will use rip- critical because the building sits reduce our budget expenditures rap to reinforce the bank of on a very unstable, steep scree for the summer season 3% from National Creek adjacent to the slope and as foundation mem- what they were during the sum- footbridge where it was damaged bers fail, the overall building is mer of 2010. As a result, the in the 2006 flood event. Siding less stable. The park has let a park has refocused our priori- will be installed on the East contract to Twin Peaks Con- ties, and continues to make en- bunkhouse. Our Crew will start struction to develop the drilling hancements on our operations foundation stabilization of the and anchoring method to stabi- which maximize our effective- West Bunkhouse. This may in- lize soils and cribbing in the ness with the dollars that Con- volve a contract to lift the struc- building. The work will take gress appropriates to us. The ture while NPS employees place on the street level and lev- park has maintained its commit- construct foundation walls. el three of the mill. The con- ment to local hire in the perma- There will be some touch up tract will be initiated in May and nent workforce; two of five painting performed on the Com- we anticipate completion by the positions filled this year were pany Store, Machine Shop and end of June. We are looking at from our local communities. General Manager’s Office. Ken- how to complete this work while Many of you already know necott Cottage 32-8, which is minimizing the impact to St that Jim Baker, our Kennecott open for self-guided tours, will Elias Alpine Guide’s Mill Build- Maintenance Supervisor, re- receive a new rolled roof. Access ing tours and protecting the ceived the National Park to the building may be temporar- safety of park visitors and guides Service’s Appleman-Judd-Lewis ily restricted during this work if on those tours. We will be meet- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 29 ing with St. Elias Alpine Guides 1013 or Luke Hodgson at and collect community as soon as we have information [email protected], 960- member’s comments. Bruce regarding how the work will be 1023. Training will be available Rogers and I are setting up a done. to those who are interested and meeting with the MAC subgroup In May, we will be moving the sign up. in the next couple weeks to dis- staff support washhouse and the Because of budget con- cuss the plan. cabanas behind the store down straints, the park has had to re- Cultural resources personnel to the Dairy Barn area. You’ll duce the Interpretive staff by five will be developing GIS-based also see some road and trail positions and we are refocusing documentation of all the cultur- maintenance in the NHL this our interpretive offerings to bet- al-resource and stabilization year. ter match the needs of visitors. work that has occurred in the The Ranger Staff has a new We will offer opportunities to Kennecott NHL in the past. This member. Stephens Harper finally explore the NHL through pro- effort will enhance future plan- has an Area Ranger on board to grams, increased presence of ning efforts, as well as providing help him – this position has been roving rangers, and we have for a more comprehensive record vacant since 2008. Please help maintained our commitment to of compliance work completed us welcome Luke Hodgson to the keep the Kennecott Visitor Cen- to date. The Kennecott Ceme- community! The park will be in- ter open seven days a week. Re- tery was recently determined stalling communications and turning seasonal Earl Sanders eligible as a contributing land- power at the rangers’ airport will be stationed in Chitina and scape component of the NHL, office. Meghan Seifert and Matt contacting park visitors at the and the park is beginning a Smith will be returning in their ranger station and along the Mc- treatment plan for it. Seasonal previous capacity as Backcountry Carthy road. Interpretive staff Archeologist Lee Reininghaus Rangers. Richard Millsap re- will be working with the commu- will be returning this summer, turns again this summer, in his nity on an interpretive exhibit and will be assisted by Cultural 37th season as a seasonal Nation- planning at a workshop in early Resources Management Special- al Park Service Ranger! As a re- June, establishing a lease agree- ist Greg Biddle, Compliance Ar- sult of our budget situation, the ment with Wrangell Mountain cheologist Patrick Mullen, and protection staff will be smaller, Center for the Recreation Hall to two Student Conservation Corps and the work season shorter, but maintain and enhance communi- interns. last year’s priorities remain this ty use of the building, support- The park will be installing year’s: emergency medical re- ing youth programming, hosting road signs within the Depart- sponse, search and rescue, and the Far North Conservation Film ment Of Transportation Right Of bear/human conflict manage- Festival, and assisting with the Way along the McCarthy Road ment. Enforcement of the Kennecott and McCarthy Muse- this summer. We received per- park’s food storage and proper um for the Copper River North- mission from the DOT late last human waste disposal require- western Railroad Centennial in summer for the signs. You’ll see ments remain high on our list of early July. Willa Mullen has re- a few signs in the McCarthy-Ken- priorities. The park will sponsor placed Mona Jones as the Alaska necott Area and kiosks at the a CPR/AED training class in ear- Geographic Manager, and will be west foot bridge, Museum and ly June which will be open to managing the bookstore in our Airport Mail Shack. These signs community members, if you are visitor center. will show land status and point interested in participating please The draft Kennecott Manage- out facilities along the road. contact Stephens Harper at ment Plan will be distributed for The Copper Valley Wireless [email protected], or public comment this summer. project has been approved and 554-1144. If you are interested The park has hired Elizabeth they will be constructing new in signing up as a volunteer Schafer to work part-time assist- communication site facilities at emergency first responder, ing the park with the public in- Gilahina and Lakina this sum- please contact Meghan Seifert at volvement on the plan. She will mer and upgrading the Sour- [email protected], 960- be available to meet with people, dough communication site. explain the draft plan content PAGE 30 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

These operations will include the collect more native seed for Ken- Lastly, as many of you have use of a helicopter. We antici- necott re-vegetation efforts after heard, I will be retiring from the pate that operations will com- stabilization efforts are complet- NPS and federal service on June mence in May and may continue ed. There will be a SAGA crew in 3, 2011. I have appreciated our until August and/or September. the area the week of Aug 1. They collaborative work together over Contact CVW for details. will be assisting with invasive the past four and a half years, NPS staff will be continuing weed work as well as some native and it has been an honor to the abandoned mine lands pro- seed collection and planting of serve as the park’s Superinten- gram this summer. We antici- some screening plants around dent. Recruitment for my re- pate helicopter operations in the the generator building. placement is underway. I know McCarthy, Nizina, Chitistone, Fire staff will be working the relationship between the Kuskulana and Kotsina Drainag- with the community to identify park and community will contin- es during the June 23-29 and areas that would benefit from ue to grow and develop in the July 14-20 periods. Contact hazard fuel reduction work. The years ahead. Here’s looking for- Danny Rosenkrans for details on area that is tentatively being ward to a great summer! these projects. considered at this time is NPS Sincerely; The seasonal invasive plants lands near the University subdivi- Meg Jensen crew will be spending time out in sion in McCarthy. Discussion Superintendent Kennecott evaluating, control- has been underway in recent ling, and monitoring invasive months with University subdivi- weeds. This year we will begin to sion landowners. Cross Road Medical Center comes calling avanea Bush, Mobile Church from 9:30 am to 12:00 also able to draw blood for some Health Program Coor- Noon and 1:30 pm to 3:30 pm. labs and have it tested at Cross Ddinator, writes to the Appointments can be made by Road Medical Center. It is pref- McCarthy and Kennicott Com- calling Cross Road Medical Cen- erable that people make appoint- munity the following announce- ter at 822-3203. Walk in pa- ments but we see people who ment. tients are welcome also but walk-in. Appointments are en- “Cross Medical Center is appointments will have first pri- couraged for immunizations and pleased to announce that this ority. any blood work. A social worker summer we will once again be The clinics will be able to will be available to assist in a holding mobile clinics in McCa- provide the following health ser- variety of areas some of which rthy. We will be in McCarthy on vices: sick visits and check ups, include Medicare, Medicaid, the following Fridays: June 17th, adult physicals, sport/school WIC, Behavioral Health and Pre- scription Assistant Program. Any July 15th, and August 19th. The physicals, ICC physicals, well questions may be directed to clinics will be held at the McCa- child checks with immunizations Davanea Bush at 822-3203.” rthy-Kennicott Community and adult immunizations. We are Copper Valley Telephone Annual Customer Appreciation Picnics

ome have CVTC staff Thursday, July 7th—Chitina Friday, July 15th— serve you hamburgers, Waysite Chistochina Community Center hot dogs, chips, cook- C Friday, July 8th—McCarthy Friday, July 29th—Cordova, ies and drinks between 12 noon Community Center location to be announced to 1 pm at the following loca- tions! Thursday, July 14th— Mentasta Baseball Field WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 31

We’ve Been A Part Of The Local Scenery Wells Fargo was one of the Since 1852® first companies to do business around here. So, you might say we’ve grown up together. Thanks for all your support over the years. Glennallen Team Mile 187.5 Glenn Highway

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Can you solve a Mystery? Does anyone know anything about a Rail Road Speeder removed (by permission) www.wsen.net from the Long Lake area a number of years ago? Any information will be appreciated. mccarthy-kennicott.com Please call Dave at (907) 274-9046 or 440-2982. Thanks.

Twin Lakes Campground to close for improvements campground must be closed for ther information. The Slana rangell-St. Elias safety purposes. Work has begun Ranger station is open 7 days a National Park and and is schedule to be completed week from 8:00am to 5:00pm. W Preserve has closed by October 1, 2011. If the work The phone number is 907-822- the Twin Lakes Camp Ground at is completed earlier than expect- 7401. mile 27 on the Nabesna Road for ed, the campground will be re- To view the plan for the camp- repairs. A contractor will be opened at that time. There are ground, visit our website at working in the campground to other camping options along the http://www.nps.gov/wrst/parkmgmt/ improve access and develop Nabesna Road. Please contact planning.htm campsites. Due to this work, the the Slana Ranger Station for fur- PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

July 8, Friday TBA Ahtna Heritage Elders and Dancers at the Museum in McCarthy. 4pm Wrangell Mountains Center presents Jim Edwards, Hardware Store, McCarthy. July 9, Saturday 8-11am Pancake Breakfast, Hardware Store. $10 donation.

2pm CR&NW Presentation by NPS historian Geoff Bleakley, Recreation Hall, Dubbed “Canʼt Run and Never Kennecott. Will” it did run from 1911-1938 from 3:30pm Pounding of the Copper Spike Re-enactiment, Kennecott Cordova through McCarthy to the Light refreshments, Kennicott Glacier Lodge. town the Kennecott Copper The conversation continues, Recreation Hall, Kennecott Corporation built, now in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. 8pm Ghost Town of McCarthy Comes Alive. Period-dress block party, The McCarthy Lodge. July 10, Sunday 2pm “Martin & Augusta Radovan” Presentation by NPS historian Katie Ringsmuth, Museum in McCarthy.

A railroad speeder, an auto-railer bus, 20+ vintage and classic cars -- all will be in and around McCarthy & Kennecott for visitors to enjoy all weekend!

McCarthy's Grocery & Hardware Center All your grocery needs. Fresh produce. Fully stocked hardware store. Competitive to Anchorage pricing throughout the store.

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Ma Johnson's Hotel - McCarthy Lodge Bistro - Golden Saloon - Mountain Arts Gifts - Nugget Liquors - Lancaster's Hotel WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 33

The New Caribou Hotel Getting tired? Stop at the Caribou Hotel! The coffee pot’s always on!

Warm atmosphere — Hot Tubs — Satellite TV Full Menu Restaurant

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Mile 188.5 Glenn Highway Box 276 Glennallen, AK 99588 PAGE 34 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 Scheduled Air Service from Anchorage to McCarthy with stopover in Gulkana!

Now you can leave Anchorage at 8:30 on Monday or Thursday morning and arrive in Gulkana at 9:45, McCarthy at 11:00. Or, you can leave McCarthy at 11:15 and be back in Anchorage by 2:00pm the same day! (Leaves Gulkana at 12:45) This service is year around.

www.coppervalleyair.com

Phone 822-4200 RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEPARTURES, ARRIVALS, CONNECTIONS. Copper Valley Air will not be responsible for damages resulting from the failure of flights to depart or arrive at times stated in this timetable, nor for errors herein, nor for failure to make Or toll-free 866-570-4200 connections to other airlines or of this company. Schedules are subject to change without notice. Schedules shown are based on expected flying times. Because weather and other factors may Gulkana Airfield Box 234, Glennallen, AK 99588 affect operating conditions, departures and arrivals cannot be guaranteed.

HOMESTEAD SUPPLY Lumber, building materials and hardware delivered to the McCarthy area at Anchorage prices! Give us a call or come in and browse our new ACE Hardware store. NEW! Greenhouse and potting supplies!

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Wood Stove For Sale Jotul F 400 Castine Used 4 times. Too much stove for my Ÿ Maximum heat output: 55,000 BTU/hr small red cabin in downtown Ÿ Heating capacity: Up to 1,600 sq.ft McCarthy. Ÿ Max log length: Up to 20" Will sell for $2,000 here in Ÿ Over 75% efficient McCarthy. Ÿ Burn time: Up to 8 hours You haul. Ÿ Finish: Matte Black Paint Patt Garrett Ÿ Flue outlet: Top, and rear Ÿ 907-854-7288 Flue size: 6" Ÿ Across from Wrangell Mt. Center Weight: 375 lbs. PAGE 36 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011

ROWCON SERVICES Keith Rowland, Owner GENERAL CONTRACTOR Lifetime Alaskan McCarthy, Alaska 554-4498 Excavation & Gravel Products DEC-approved septics

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WRANGELL MOUNTAIN McCarthy TECHNICAL SERVICES Bed & Breakfast Providing Civil Engineering and Land Survey Services Cozy, quiet cabins, all with private bathrooms & showers. Pull into our Serving the Copper Basin and throughout Alaska conveniently located homestead on the McCarthy Road, ½ mile from the Kennicott On-Site Water and Wastewater Designs River footbridge. Engineering Consultation Continental breakfast & fresh coffee Residential Home Inspections Private baths Construction Inspection and Management Gazebo kitchen As-built Surveys, Boundary Surveys, Sub- Picnic area divisions, Construction Surveys & Sanitary Tire repair Surveys ALLEN MINISH, PE PLS [email protected] Mile 32.1 Edgerton Hwy PO Box MXY Glennallen, AK 99588-8998 P. O. Box 118, Chitina, AK 99566 (907) 554-4433 907-823-2280 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 37 Cooking with Peggy 3. Combine syrup and next 3 ened, stirring every 2 minutes. appy Summer every- ingredients in a small saucepan Stir in the vanilla. Refrigerate in one; I’m writing this over medium heat, and cook un- a large bowl. Combine the fruit. Hin May as we pack til butter melts. Brush 1 side of Drizzle with dressing and toss to and get ready to head north. each slice of the squash with syr- coat. Cover and refrigerate until This winter has been so busy that up mixture. Bake at 425 degrees serving. This makes 26 1-cup I can hardly wait to sit in my for 15 minutes. Turn squash servings. I found the recipe quite chair in McCarthy and read a over, and brush with remaining some time ago in one of my great mystery while sipping a glaze. Bake an additional 15 Taste of Home Cookbooks, I cup of coffee. Doesn’t that sound minutes or until tender. 4 serv- think, and took it to a church like something to look forward ings (1 slice each) gathering. Everyone loved it. to! Have any of you ever been on Last month my sister’s best About this time of year I try Weight Watchers? Would you friend Colleen came to visit her to give you a few recipes using believe I went on their program from Davidsville, PA and brought vegetables since some of us grow for the first time back in the late pages and pages of her favorite our own and some of us are able ‘60’s after my second baby. Well, recipes with her. I have room to to find some good stuff in the I’m back on it, am doing well, share one or two this time but I grocery stores. I’m discovering and LOVE their new program promise I’ll give you more in lat- each summer that I’m liking because we can pretty much eat er issues. This first one was miss- squash better and better. Here’s as many fresh fruits and vegeta- ing the title so let’s just call it a really easy one for acorn bles as we want to for free. If any ZUCCHINI PIE squash. of you are invited to a group pic- 10” pie plate MAPLE-GLAZED ROASTED nic this summer, here is a great 2 cups chopped zucchini ACORN SQUASH salad to take. It will serve 26. I 1 cup chopped tomatoes 1 medium Acorn Squash (about 2 adjust it down, of course, for my ½ cup chopped onion lbs.) family and have to adjust the 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons Maple Syrup (I use sugar for WW but………it is Salt and pepper the Lite) wonderful. Mix and put in the lightly sprayed pie plate. 2 teaspoons butter FRUIT SALAD WITH APRICOT 1 ½ cup milk 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg DRESSING ¾ cup Bisquick 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar 3 eggs And I also add a little cinna- 1 tablespoon cornstarch mon since it is so good for you. 2 cans (5 ½ oz. each) Apricot Nec- Pour over the mixture in the 1. Preheat the oven to 425 tar pie plate and bake it at 400 de- degrees. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract grees for about 40+ minutes. This serves about 4 people. 2. Cut squash horizontally 6 large red apples, coarsely chopped 8 medium firm bananas, sliced into 4 slices about ½” thick. Dis- Another one she gave me 1 medium fresh pineapple, peeled, card the seeds, membranes. If that sounds both good and easy cored and cut into chunks is there is any usable squash left (about 5 cups) HONEY MUSTARD CHICKEN over, I use it and adjust the reci- 1 quart fresh strawberries, quar- pe accordingly. (Just can’t bring tered Lay four pieces of chicken in myself to throw things away and 2 cups green grapes a 8 x 8 baking dish sprayed with I have no chickens or anything In a microwave-safe bowl, stir Pam. Put a can of green beans to feed it to.) the sugar, cornstarch and apri- (drained) or about the same Place squash on a jelly-roll cot nectar until smooth. Micro- amount of cooked fresh ones on pan lined with foil. wave, uncovered, on high for 6-8 top of the chicken. On top of minutes or until slightly thick- PAGE 38 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 that pour the sauce which is made Wash, dry, and season the going to make a whole batch for up of: wings with the first 6 ingredients. myself! 3 tablespoons honey Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Now, I probably have room to ¼ teaspoon pepper Spray cookie sheet generously. share my WW Strawberry Pie with 1/3 cup Dijon mustard Place wings in a single layer you and it is really good! 1 tablespoon water and put in the oven (about 38 per WW STRAWBERRY PIE Cover the pan and bake it at large pan) 24 oz. strawberries 400 degrees for about 40 minutes. Cook for 35-40 minutes de- 1 small box sugar-free vanilla pud- During the summer when it’s pending on size of wings, turning ding mix (cook and serve kind) hot you often don’t feel like mak- once. 1 large box sugar-free strawberry ing a heavy meat for picnics or While they are baking make jello even dinner. I looked at my list the sauce by slowly simmering the 2 cup water and I honestly don’t think I’ve giv- sauce ingredients over the lowest 1 tablespoons cornstarch en you one of my favorite recipes heat. Arrange fruit evenly in the bot- for When the wings are done bak- tom of a pie pan. Combine pud- CHICKEN WINGS ing, carefully dip in the sauce and ding, jello, and water in a sauce This recipe is for about 18 wings. place them back in the oven for pan and cook until boiling. Add 1 teaspoon kosher salt another 5 minutes or until sauce cornstarch, stir until smooth. 1 teaspoon garlic powder is bubbling. Pour over fruit and refrigerate un- ½ teaspoon sugar Note: One bag from our gro- til firm. Use with fat-free cool ½ teaspoon paprika cery store here in Tucson had whip. ½ teaspoon black pepper about 45 wings. I multiplied the Hint: Take a small amount of ¼ teaspoon cayenne seasonings by 2 ½ and found that the liquid and add the cornstarch Cooking spray it stretches. I doubled the sauce and stir — then add it to the larg- Sauce but one would probably do. er amount of liquid. 1 cup barbeque sauce, preferably Note #2! Since wings are basi- Guess I better get back to Hickory Smoke Flavor cally nothing but fat I don’t think packing. We will leave Tucson in a couple of weeks. With gas prices ½ cup honey I could eat very many on my WW the way they are maybe we’ll have 2 tablespoon ketchup plan and continue to lose and I to walk and push the car part way! 2 tablespoons hot sauce don’t want to eat just 2 or 3, I want to eat all 45 so……..I’m go- I’ll write to you from McCarthy 4 tablespoons butter ing to promise myself that for my next time and bring you a few reci- ½ teaspoon garlic powder next birthday in April of 2012, I’m pes from the folks there. A LOOK AT THE WEATHER

in ‘06 and 37.4 in ‘05. The low- The total snowfall at McCa- pril 2011 saw average est average temperatures for rthy for’10-‘11 was 66.8 inches temperatures and be- April were 22.4 in 1972 and 24.7 (74.9 in ‘09-‘10, 121.3 in ‘08- Alow average precipita- in 1986. ‘09, 73.4 in ‘07-‘08, 44.7 in ‘06- tion. The high temperature for The precipitation for April ‘07, 84.0 in’05-‘06, 79.4 in ‘04- the month was 57 on the 23 th was below average with only a ‘05, 110.6 in ‘03-‘04, 46.0 in ‘02- (62 on Apr. 28, ‘10, 64 on Apr. trace of liquid (0.11 in ‘10, 0.20 ‘03, 74.2 in ‘01-‘02, 85.2 in ‘00 30, ‘09 and 59 on Apr. 27, ‘08). in ‘09, 0.50 in ‘08, 0.01 in ‘07, ‘01, 65.8 in ‘99-00 and 38.9 in The low was 9 on the 11th (5 on 1.14 in ‘06, 0.08 in ‘05 and 0.77 ‘98-99). Kennicott total is not Apr. 10, ‘10, 0 on Apr. 1, ‘09 and in ‘04). There was 0.3 inches of available (85.2 in ’09-10, 127.3 0 on Apr. 18 ‘08). The average snow (1.6 in ‘10, 2.9 in ‘09, 7.0 in ‘08-‘09, 79.7 in ‘07-‘08, 60.0 temperature for April was 34.6, in ‘08, trace in ‘07, 10.2 in ‘06, in ‘06-‘07 and 96.9 in ‘05-‘06). compared to 34.8 in ‘10, 34.0 in no snow in‘05 and 8.7 in ‘04). McCarthy started April with ‘09, 34.1 in ‘08, 34.4 in ‘07, 33.1 22 inches of snow on the ground WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 PAGE 39 and ended the month with 3 0.68 inches of liquid. This com- Summer should be in full inches on the ground. pares with 0.25 inches in ‘10, swing by late June. June and Ju- The temperatures were about 0.86 inches in ‘09, 0.12 inches ly are the warmest months with average for May. The high tem- in ‘08, 2.50 inches in ‘07, 0.47 the highs usually in the low 80s. perature for May was 81 on the inches in ‘06, 1.64 inches in ‘05 The temperature begins to cool 29th and 31th (82 on May 28, ‘10, and 1.05 inches in ‘04. There in August with highs only get- 78 on May 26, ‘09 and 70 on May was 0.2 inches of snow on May ting into the low 70s. The all 28, ‘08). The low temperature 7th . Kennicott had 0.30 inches time high recorded at McCarthy was 87 on June 21, 1991. Freez- was 20 on the 16th (20 on May of liquid. ing temperatures should be back 16, ‘10, 23 on May 18, ‘09 and The ice on the West Fork of by the end of August, although 22 on May19, ‘08). The May aver- the Kennicott River began to they can be observed at any age temperature was 45.7 this break apart around May 8th and time. Average monthly rainfall is compares with 47.6 in ‘10, 47.2 water was moving over the top. about 2 inches (June-August). in ‘09, 44.8 in ‘08, 45.5 in ‘07, The river was clear of moving ice Hidden Lake should empty some- 45.0 in ‘06, 48.8 in ‘05, 49.3 in by May 11th and all the shore ice time in July, with a rapid rise of ‘04 and 44.4 in ‘03. There were 3 was gone by May 16th. the water level in the Kennicott days with a high of 80 or above The first week of June was a River and some possible flood- and 8 days with the low of 25 or bit cooler from the end of May, ing. The first snow usually ar- lower. Kennicott had a high of with highs in the 60's and low rives sometime in late 78 on 28th, a low of 25 on the 70's. The lows were mostly in the September. 10th and 16th. The May average upper 30's. There was just over a ENJOY THE SUMMER temperature was 47.1 trace of rain. WHATEVER THE WEATHER! The precipitation for May 2011 was about average with

of McCarthy

formerly

w Private cabins for 2 to 4. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. Enjoy Alaskan bush living. w Quiet, Peaceful location away from the crowds! Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm PAGE 40 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2011 90 July 2010 80

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