PAGE 8 WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2013 C HRONICLE - TELEGRAPH Taste of Heritage: Making Quebec cider even more local

Be t h a n n G. Me r k l e and his friends suggested he resulted in an orchard unlike Be t h a n n @q c t o n l i n e .c o m make cider to use them up. most others in the province – f Quebec cider is famous, Approaching cider making it is small enough to tend by then the province’s iced as he would any other project, hand on the weekends, and Icider is iconic. Quebec Jolicoeur methodically began boasts many unusual varie- City cider master Claude learning everything he could ties. In particular, he has Jolicoeur has made cider about apple varieties and the discovered and named three privately for over two decades. science of fermentation. He apple varieties which figure He gives presentations and explained, “As an engineer, large in his ciders: Banane demonstrations throughout I am a researcher by nature. amère, Bilodeau, and Douce North America, and his I do that with everything I de Charlevoix. Like cider homemade ciders have won touch, and I found that you makers in England, France, numerous awards. This can approach even cider Germany, and Spain, Joli- year, he published The New with a scientific mind.” He coeur seeks apple varieties Cider Maker’s Handbook: cites the owners of Cidrerie with low levels of acid and A Comprehensive Guide Saint-Nicolas and an English- much higher bitterness and for Craft Producers, which language internet forum, the tannins. These become ciders puts heritage cider prepa- Cider Digest, as significant with a mouthfeel reminiscent ration methods into the influences. He also men- of Chardonnay or perhaps the hands of cider fans across tioned his strong connections sprightly bubbles and flavour the continent. In a recent to international cider produc- of champagne. interview with the QCT, ers. “In Quebec, the nearly 85 Jolicoeur focuses on herit- Jolicoeur explained how he cider makers don’t know me. age apples with unfamiliar came to be an award-winning In the U.S., there are probably flavour profiles. He said that cider maker and author, and 150-200, and most of them many other countries “know how Quebec’s ciders compare know me,” he said. He credits that the greatest wines and Photo by Bethann G. Merkle to those in other parts of the technology for these cross- ciders are often made by border relationships, saying, Claude Jolicoeur, an award-winning local craft cider maker, autographs his new book world. small producers,” and most after sharing samples of his cider and the apple varieties he has discovered. Tasty coincidence “It is because of the Internet; countries protect and en- Jolicoeur’s passion for cider [cider] discussion forums courage this. Although the apples that people eat, and offers straightforward tips technicalities of sugar, acid, began by happenstance. As don’t exist in French.” word ‘cider’ is protected in these are not ideal for cider.” on how to avoid bland, ‘sharp’ and fermentation processes, a mechanical engineer with Orchard to bottle Quebec, denoting a beverage Modern eating apples (known cider, even if commercial mechanical diagrams for an interest in solar energy, Although not that famil- 100% made from apples, there as ‘dessert’ apples) have a apple juice is your main making several different he didn’t have apples on iar with specific Quebec are downsides, too. Quebec high acid-to-sugar ratio that source. Whether you are a types of apple mills and his mind. Then, in 1982 he cider makers, Jolicoeur is cider makers must also grow ensures the tart-and-sweet novice crafter or have long presses, and even insights purchased some property intimately familiar with apples sold commercially. taste consumers are used to. been ‘elaborating’ cider (as from other cider makers from in Charlevoix, where he cider production. He has “Provincial legislation is However, the resulting ciders Jolicoeur said the process the United States to France intended to design a passive been making cider for 25 tailored to ensure a market.” are ‘sharp’ from so much acid is called), you’ll find what and Spain. A word of caution solar energy home. His initial years, estimates he produces For example, “Most cider and lack the flavour complex- you need in The New Cider – if you enjoy do-it-yourself reaction to a few rows of 400 to 500 bottles of cider a makers here produce a ity provided by other apple Maker’s Handbook, a locally- projects, read the book and abandoned heritage apple year, and says proudly that minimum of 20,000 bottles, varieties. written resource replete you are liable to wind up with trees was neutral. Neutral, his ciders are preferred over and realistically, they prob- Local wisdom for cider with expert advice on what a carboy of cider bubbling that is, until the rewarded champagne at holiday meals. ably make 50,000 bottles makers varieties to grow (whether in away in your apartment quite his novice caretaking with Over the years, Jolicoeur’s re- per year,” he said. He added, For home-scale cider your yard or in an extensive soon, as is currently the case abundant crops of apples, search and relationships have “Clearly, they use the same makers, Jolicoeur’s book orchard), all the chemical for this writer. Quebecers take centre stage in Cirque’s TOTEM

spins from chains looking Da n i e l l e Bu r n s TOTEM as the main singer. like a 1970s-inspired Spi- Da n i e l l e @q c t o n l i n e .c o m Laveau accepted and has been drumming and singing derman in a black velvet lthough the Cirque his “ancestral vocals” on bodysuit covered with 4,000 du Soleil’s TOTEM is stage every night to portray small reflectors. This human Aplaying some 5,000 TOTEM’s storyline about the crystal ball wears the heavi- km from Quebec City in evolution of mankind. We est costume (eight pounds) Los Angeles, California, it hear and see Laveau many in the show. The Crystal is Quebecers who take the times throughout the per- Man enters the tortoise shell, spotlight. The show, which formance in warrior makeup. which is teeming with life, was written and directed by He accompanies acts such represented by some twenty Robert Lepage, began touring as the native hoop dancers green-suited amphibians. in 2010 with the premiere per- imitating animal forms, the Most Cirque shows do formance in Montreal before bullfighter scene and the without the help of videos. stopping in Quebec City in wedding ceremony, per- But in TOTEM, extensive July and August of the same formed at breakneck speed videos are used to convey an year. After a busy schedule by a couple on rollerskates organic world, with images overseas in Europe, the show atop a small drum. Other are projected onto the island Photo by Danielle Burns is back in North America and world music takes influences (the stage). Images of the has now made it to Southern from Bollywood and heavy river, marshes, lakes and The TOTEM big top on the waterfront in the Port of Los Angeles, CA. California – a nice place metal but is mostly tribal- erupting volcanoes on stage tended hand. Cupcakes and away with the circus until tival du Cirque de Demain in for Quebecers to be based sounding. come from real films shot bubbles were just the icing on she was a teenager, when Paris for their highly skilful for the winter. Two compa- In the story, the audience for the production in various the cake for the second part she began to train at the trapeze routine. triots who play prominent travels from the evolution parts of the world, including of the show, which featured National Circus School in As usual with Le Cirque, roles in the show are Sarah of the human species into Iceland, Hawaii and Guate- one of the most popular acts, Montreal in her last year of the acts are jaw-dropping Tessier from Montreal and and from apes to present- mala. The flowing lava was the lovebirds’ fixed-trapeze high school. While training, and awe-inspiring, but in this Christian Laveau from day, smartphone-wielding filmed by Image Content duo. This is where Montrealer she was teamed up with her show there’s a modern touch Wendake, Quebec. businessmen. The show is designer Pedro Pires, who Sarah Tessier shines in a current partner, Guilhem with high-tech special effects Native Canadian Christian performed in an intimate big grew up in Quebec City. lemon-coloured body suit. Cauchois, and the duo spent that are more sophisticated Laveau’s story is somewhat top with audience members As the show was about Sarah and her equally flexible three years perfecting their for today’s difficult-to-please unusual compared with that sitting in a semicircle around two hours long, there was a partner embark on a flirta- routine. A year before gradu- audiences who want fast- of his fellow artists: he did not the stage. The stage is covered half-hour intermission. But tious teasing game which sees ation, Cirque du Soleil talent paced action. If you missed have to audition for his part by an enormous illuminated this was no ordinary break. them defy gravity by hanging scouts offered them a con- the show in Quebec City, in the production. Robert turtle shell, representing Delicious red velvet cupcakes from one another and from tract with TOTEM and they the next Canadian viewing Lepage was so impressed the earth and the symbol with cream cheese icing (a the suspended swing. began performing in late will be in Vancouver in 2014. after hearing Laveau’s voice of origin for many ancient specialty in L.A.) were on While Sarah had always summer 2012. In January Dates and cities for addi- at a concert for Quebec civilizations. A Crystal Man offer (courtesy a local busi- been involved in sports, she of 2013, they won the Gold tional shows are yet to be City’s 400th anniversary is lowered from the ceiling, ness) and champagne flutes did not think about running Medal of the prestigious Fes- assigned. that he invited him to join representing space, and he were passed out to any ex-