Petzl Foundation Activities report 2013

Exploring new horizons Contents

Discovering mountains with the Piolets Jeunes...... 4 - 5 Giving a true meaning safely in date palms...... 6 - 7 Since 2006, our company's Foundation has given support and funding to over 90 projects all Research in the Cameroonian canopy...... 8 - 9 around the world. In total, we have donated more than € 2,700,000 to these projects which serve The secrets inside Corsican pines...... 10 - 11 our mountain and vertical access communities who have enabled us to grow and prosper. The Petzl Foundation's commitment to serve the public interest strengthens the image of the Petzl Kids explore glaciers in Austria...... 12 - 13 Group and helps us protect the jobs of the men and women who work for the company. Exploring the Chachapoya world with Ukhupacha...... 14 - 15 Second Mountain Citizen Meetings...... 16 Looking beyond the figures, the activities conducted by our Foundation reveal their true meaning when we can measure the difference they make to the lives of the members of our communities. Lessons learned from near-miss accidents...... 17 Training rescuers on Kalymnos...... 18 - 19 From my point of view, the renovation of the Aigle refuge is a perfect example of this. The initial Bio- expeditions in Morocco...... 20 project would have meant the destruction of this unique symbol of our heritage. This caused great consternation and dispute among both the professional and amateur users of the Banding young birds of prey...... 21 refuge. The Petzl Foundation helped bring our mountain communities together to find an intelligent Studying permafrost to understand rockfall...... 22 solution which respects the soul of the site while meeting the needs of all who use it. Monitoring the moraine lakes in Nepal...... 23 Today, we are still working towards a solution for the couloir du Goûter, which is on the standard Developing telecommunications with Inveneo...... 24 route to the summit of Mont Blanc. The three studies we have published so far have helped us Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports...... 25 better understand the risks. We have identified a major rock fall hazard on the couloir, which is one of the busiest routes in the French Alps. We can no longer ignore that on average, three lives Training climbing instructors in the Mandé...... 26 are lost every year. It is our duty to change that. Personally, I cannot accept the situation as it Defending access to climbing sites...... 27 stands today. I remain convinced that we need to come together once again to find a solution that Other projets supported in 2013...... 28 - 30 respects the environment and the spirit of the ascension of Mont Blanc. Call for environmental projects...... 31 I have every confidence that we will succeed. Key figures...... 32 - 33 Paul Petzl, President In the words of the foundation trustees...... 34 - 35

The Petzl Foundation

For forty years, Petzl has been designing vertical access equipment for recreational and professional use, providing technical solutions to help people achieve their dreams of ascen- sion in daylight and darkness, while ensuring maximum performance, freedom and safety.

Petzl’s corporate philanthropy has a long history in the USA. Paul Petzl, president and founder, gave this activity a boost in 2005 by creating the Petzl Foundation, to serve the environment that has enabled the company to grow and prosper.

The mission of the Petzl Foundation is to conduct activities contributing to sustainable development. Our priorities are education and safety in vertical activities, as well as research into a harmonious balance between man and his cultural, economic and ecological environments. The Petzl Foundation supports non-profit projects that work for the benefit of our society and in the public interest, most specifically in these three areas:

- accident prevention and risk management training - preservation of the environment - scientific research ©

Cover photo: Into the Cameroonian canopy © Laurent Pierron - EnQuête d'Arbres

2 3 Discovering mountains with the Piolets Jeunes © Nacho Grez © Nacho Grez « The objective of the Piolets Jeunes is to encourage the deve- lopment of mountain activities and to demonstrate that they can be a real educational tool for our young citizens. This friendly event is a good way to commu- nicate with young people from all over France. Some of them had never set foot in the mountains! We also address the youth workers and teachers who accompany them. For some of them, it's also their first time in the mountains. This event allows them to share their experience and ideas. » © Nacho Grez

Emmanuelle Durand, Project Manager, High Mountain Group

Encouraging mountain activities for young people: that was the credo of the fourth edition of the Piolets Jeunes ("young people with ice axes"), organized in May 2013 by the High Mountain Group, in Chamonix. The Petzl Foundation contributed to this event because it is in line with our mission to educate young mountaineers in risk management.

The objective of the Piolets Jeunes members, were unfamilar with the The more experienced among them is to provide an inexpensive two-day mountains themselves, either for finan- had the opportunity to put their new mountaineering discovery event, which cial or geographical reasons. skills into practice on accessible routes raises awareness of the risks inherent in the areas of the Grands Montets, the in mountaineering. This event is also an Eleven educational workshops run by Mer de Glace and the Aiguille du Midi. opportunity to reward initiatives led by mountain guides on the Plan de l'Ai- schools for young people in the moun- guille, at an altitude of 2,300 m were on Mountain activities allow young people tains: three Piolets Jeunes awards are offer. The attendees were introduced to build self-esteem and find a place Photos © Nacho Grez given to schools and associations. to the basics of mountaineering such for themselves within society. Helping as map-reading, roping up, , each other and sharing are strong A strong team spirit was at the heart of At the National School of Skiing and Mountaineering, our young mountaineers In May 2013, over 140 young moun- and the use of . mountaineering values. This event was this event! could see the routes they took on a 3D model of Mont Blanc. taineers aged between 14 and 22, One of the safety workshops taught a great opportunity for these young came from all over France to take them how to arrest a fall on a slope. The people to discover the climbing spirit part in this fourth edition. Half of these young mountaineers were also able to and mountain culture. Following on young people, all either pupils in moun- learn about the rescue tech- from this great success, a fifth edition Project partner: Groupe de Haute Montagne (High Mountain Group) / www.ghm-alpinisme.fr taineering sections at their schools, or nique, searching for avalanche victims has been planned for 2014. www.pioletsdor.com (piolets jeunes) mountaineering club and association and building a shelter in the snow. Budget: € 3,000 in 2013

4 FRANCE 5 Climbing safely in date palms

« In the Guerrara oasis, we have about 150,000 date palms. Thirty professionals work in them, assisted by around sixty casual or seasonal workers. We asked the local hospital for statistics, and they told us that there had been on average ten accidents and five deaths per year since 1990. Both professional and seasonal workers were among the victims. That is why we have set up training led by volunteers to teach date palm workers how to work more safely. »

Omar, date palm worker, member of Tazdaït Photos © Olivier Moret

Two prototypes were made. On the left, the harness developed by Petzl Customized Photos © Philippe Descamps Products. On the right, the ingenious and inexpensive solution designed by two Petzl Foundation trustees.

In November 2013, a field mission to the date palm oasis of Ghardaia in Algeria aimed at testing harness prototypes to reduce the risks inherent in work at height in date palms. The Petzl Foundation provided full funding for this mission.

After three days of testing, the under the crown, crossing the crown, Date palm maintenance requires This prototype was then made by the technical solution developed in close working inside the crown, or climbing around ten visits per year and there are Petzl Customized Products Business collaboration with the Algerian date down. The only alternative would have over 10 million date palms in Algeria! Unit, led by Loïc Souillet. Marc palm workers was approved. The been the use of articulated platforms. Dates are a staple food source in the Seraphin and Peter Popall (Petzl Vice initial challenge was to design a However this is totally unsuited to the region and their production has the President), worked on an alternative solution that guarantees safety for terrain. Only traditional barefoot care potential to become a major export low-cost solution, using climbing rope workers when they are climbing on and harvest techniques can conserve commodity. offcuts. The date palm workers tested the date palm, without restricting the date palm oasis ecosystem and its the prototype and their comments their movements or wasting their diversity of varieties. Over three years, the Petzl Foundation enabled the Petzl design team to find time. European tree care techniques has built up strong relationships the perfect solution. could not be applied because the use This is dangerous work because it with Bede, an association based in of a rope was found to be too time- is carried out at a height of between Montpellier, France, and with Tazdait, consuming and impractical. 10 and 25 meters above ground. an association based in Ghardaia. The The workers are usually alone. The harness prototypes were the result of The solution chosen was in fact very crown is often very wide and its tips previous fact-finding missions, during Harvesting dates in the crown of the date palm. similar to via ferrata techniques, using are covered in long sharp needles. It is which Marc Seraphin (Foundation a harness and two adjustable lanyards easy to understand that despite their Trustee) and Chris Blakeley (Petzl alternately or simultaneously, depending astonishing agility, these unprotected Solutions) worked on a solution, using Project partner: international solidarity association BEDE (biodiversity, exchange and propagation of experience) on the different phases of the work in workers are sometimes the victims of a specially designed harness, two www.bede-asso.org, in conjunction with the local association Tazdaït progress: climbing the trunk, working fatal accidents. lanyards, and an innovative connector. Budget: € 9,500 in 2013, € 17,700 since 2010 / Petzl Foundation involvment: 26 days

6 ALGERIA 7 Research in the Cameroonian canopy

« For many years, scien- tists studied the forest from the ground up. Researchers are now turning to the tree- tops. Exploring the canopy has now become an important

Photos © Laurent Pierron / EQA Pierron Photos © Laurent field of research. To achieve good results during training, it is essential to confront the reality on the ground. The difficulty encountered in this environment is a factor not to be taken lightly.

We are trying to provide prac- tical solutions based on our experience. In Cameroon, the PhD students we have trained have acquired another point of view, thanks to this new expe- rience. » © Boris Dufour

Laurent Pierron, president of EnQuête d’Arbres

To better understand and protect tropical forests, researchers need access to the canopy. In Exploring the Ebogo giant November 2013, two members of the EnQuête d'Arbres association went to Cameroon to give tech- nical ascension solutions to scientists who need to climb tall trees in a tropical environment. The Laurent Pierron says: "We heard about a huge tree south of Mbalmayo, Petzl Foundation contributed to the funding of this trip. three kilometers from the village of Ebogo. The tree towers above the The first training session was attended inside the crown. Their skills need forest canopy. When climbing it, we by three Cameroonian PhD students to be developed, but the group's encountered the usual tropical forest from the University of Yaoundé, a progress was impressive. The extreme climbing difficulties: crowded floor British specialist in rainforest creepers, height was a reminder to everyone space, height of the first branch, a Belgian researcher from the Institute involved that humans are better suited choice of for fixing the rope, of Research for Development and their to horizontal movement and so their extreme heat, and annoying insects. Cameroonian driver-guide who wanted ascension was a significant accom- to be trained in order to help scientists plishment. The tropical forest canopy However our efforts were amply access the canopy. The group already was a revelation for these scientists rewarded. This Kossippo is nearly 60 had good knowledge of tropical forests, who are now furthering their research meters tall, and about 40 meters wide at Going up the Nyong River in a pirogue: but from ground level only. from a different angle. the top. We got an absolutely amazing another means of transport to explore view over the forest from the top!" the tropical forests of Cameroon! Their desire to gain a new research This type of in situ training taught Harvest and inventory of epiphytic perspective from the top of the trees the trainees how to deal with envi- orchids. With their aerial roots anchored gave them wings! On the third day, ronmental constraints, especially the to the trees, these orchids thrive in every one of these novice climbers crowded floor space in tropical forests. tropical forests. Project partner: EnQuête d'Arbres association / www.enquetedarbres.org reached the top of a 35-meter tree. Some of them stayed on for another with the Institute of Research for Development (IRD - Montpellier ) / www.ird.fr Some of them actualy moved around ten days to consolidate their new skills. Budget : € 4,000 in 2013

8 CAMEROON 9 The secrets inside Corsican pines

« Beyond the scientific results, the human adventure has been quite remarkable! The Corsica Regional Natural Park mountain team of five, led by a mountain guide, worked in conditions which were very different from what they were used to. The researchers also trained the mountain team how to harvest the samples. This multidiscipline approach worked really well. We also had some very interesting discus- sions on trees and ecology! »

Laetitia Hugot, Director of the National Botanical Conservatory of Corsica Photos © Pascal Tournaire

The National Botanical Conservatory of Corsica and the CNRS of Montpellier have observed unusual fungi growth on the top branches of Corsican pines, which may have been triggered by forest fires. The Petzl Foundation provided the scientists with essential ascension equipment, so that they could take samples for analysis.

To better understand the interaction In 2013, samples were taken at laboratory to determine the identity of between trees and fungi, scientists various points during the ascension the organisms they contain. have explored the canopy of of each pine, in three iconic forests on centuries-old Corsican pines, in the island. The harvesting techniques The study will improve our unders- search of these fungi which take used were specificaly developed tanding of how this ecosystem works refuge in the canopy after a wildfire. by the team, in order to ensure that and will also develop our knowledge these beautiful ancient Corsican pines of the consequences of wildfire. It will Each year, the natural heritage of remained unharmed. ultimately help us better manage and Corsica is the victim of forest fires. We conserve these unique pine forests. have known for a long time that fires The mountain team of the Corsica Collecting the samples meant climbing clear forests, and make way for the Regional Natural Park provided tech- Sample analysis is still ongoing. The inside the Corsican pine canopy which development of pioneer species. The nical support to enable the research first tests provided interesting results. can be more than forty meters high. researchers have been investigating team to reach the tops of the pines The harvesting technique used in the the possibility that the physiological and to make sampling areas safe exploration of the canopy has proved shock experienced by these pines and secure. The samples collected to be successful. during the fire could be at the origin of (needles, cones, bark, lichens, etc.) this unusual fungi growth. were processed on site at a field Project partner: National Botanical Conservatory of Corsica / cbnc.oec.fr Budget: tree ascension equipment: endowment of € 2,700

10 FRANCE 11 Kids explore glaciers in Austria Photos © archives Naturpark Kaunergrat Photos © archives

« The project was very successful, the youngsters showed great interest in the glaciers and their animal and plant life. We wanted to show them the impressive glacial area and Elisabeth Falkeis, raise their awareness of alpine risk management, the impact Naturpark Kaunergrat of climate change and the value of their mountains. biologist After the three-day trip, the group was really happy and had great memories of their experiences in the mountains. Even the teachers were fascinated by this fabulous landscape! »

The area of the Ötztaler Alpen is part of the European Union Network Natura 2000. The glaciers here are the second largest in the Eastern Alps. Responsible for this protected area, the Nature Park Kaunergrat is visited by groups from local schools, who often ask: “Why do the glaciers recede more than a kilometer in a few years?” “How can wild animals and birds survive in this hostile environment?”

To answer these questions, a This nature education program is based Over the last 30 years, glacial retreat group of 20 young teenagers and on the study of glaciers. It covers basic has caused several alpine hazards, teachers from the region explored the glaciology, plant and animal life, as like rock fall or unstable moraines. The glaciers guided by two Nature Park well as alpine ecosystems, orientation, group also learned how to prevent Kaunergrat biologists and a local navigation and map-reading. This accidents and how to react in an mountain guide. These glaciers shape glacier study took place on the tongue- emergency. the landscape that surrounds them, shaped foot of the Gepatsch Glacier. but most schoolchildren in the Tyrol There, the group got equipped, The three days in the Kaunertal valley region do not have the opportunity to instructed and roped up. had a positive emotional effect on the explore them. group. Especially the opportunity to Then, they discovered the glacier and actually move on the glacier which This project aims to help the next saw , ablation cones and was a fabulous adventure for them all. A scope to explore the alpine After a map-reading lesson indoors, the youngsters managed to map out their hikes generation gain a better understanding glacier mill. Once they had got used to The project will continue next year in landscape and fauna. themselves, taking meteorology issues and alpine hazards into account. of climate change and its effects on walking on the glacier, the group either the Pitztal Valley, which is also a part sensitive alpine ecosystems, as well climbed down or abseiled down into an of the Nature Park Kaunergrat. as discovering the pleasures of alpine ice canyon where they could practice Project partner: Naturpark Kaunergrat (Pitztal-Kaunertal), Austria / www.kaunergrat.at mountaineering. their new skills. Budget: Mountaineering equipment for a group of 16

12 AUSTRIA 13 Exploring the Chachapoya world with Ukhupacha © J. Marla Toyne © Ismael Mejias Pitti © Ismael Mejias Pitti

The Chachapoyas (known as the “Warriors of the Clouds”) were an Andean people living in the high The Ukhupacha Project Ukhupacha’s goal, in addition to consultation and proofed the book. In cloud forests of the Amazonas region of Peru circa 1000-1600 AD. Using narrow natural ledges on helping scientists gain access using addition to collaborative exploration Founded in conjunction with the caving, canyoneering, and climbing with Ukhupacha team members, cliffs, they constructed a mortuary landscape that can be explored using rope-access techniques. Universidad Jaume I de Castellón techniques, is also to keep scientists this book and training method give and the Instituto Nacional de safe and self-sufficient in spots where scientists a valuable tool for exploring The Chachapoyas are the first known who developed vertical archaeology The team's analysis of the Chachapoya Cultura de Perú, the Asociacion rope-access is essential. the world’s remote, wild, and people to have occupied Peru’s techniques to safely access the site population: age, gender, health and Ukhupacha “opens new routes” for previously inaccessible places. forested mountains at an altitude as well as to reach the upper-level diet, suggests family groups were science in South America. In 2013, Ukhupacha published

of 3,000 meters. They placed their mausoleums. The scientists required buried together. All the remains were This group of adventurers and Técnicas de Progresion Vertical, Técnicas de dead in individually built sarcophagi, stable workstations to take photos, carefully registered, photographed, cavers, led by Technical Director authored by Andres Marti Puig and PROGRESION VERTICAL constructed collective cliff tombs, and create drawings and collect samples, and inventoried at and, later, in Salvador Guinot, facilitates scien- funded by the Petzl Foundation. This Aplicaciones científicas y deportivas placed their deceased in inaccessible with the goal of reconstructing a lab. Samples of organic materials tific exploration by helping archaeo- 150-page, fully-illustrated manual, but highly visible spots. Little else is patterns of access and construction, were selected from various funerary logists, biologists, geologists, along with the accompanying known about their funerary practices. and of collecting excavated materials sites for radiocarbon analysis to better anthropologists, and volcanologists Ukhupacha training course curriculum, in order to understand the history and define the chronology of use. access some of Earth’s toughest- covers everything scientists need In May 2013, a University of Central the importance of these remains to to-reach sites: cliffs, caves, high to know to be autonomous in the Florida multidisciplinary scientific team the Chachapoyas. With specialized training and technical peaks, and the forest canopy. field. This manual and the course led by Dr. J Marla Toyne, undertook support from Ukhupacha, Toyne and Among their many projects has curriculum feature diagrams and the exploration of La Petaca in The vast La Petaca contains unique her fellow researchers were able to been one at Macchu Picchu, systems information donated by Petzl. Leymebamba, Peru. The site contains constructions which cannot be develop a new method of vertical Peru, where research teams are at many tombs, mausoleums, and rock studied at a distance. Along 6 ledges, archaeology to further explore how this present rehabilitating the Qhapaq Xavier Sansos, technical director for paintings. over 120 structures were identified ancient people transformed this place Ñan, an ancient Inca travel route. Petzl’s distributor in Spain, graciously with significant variations in building into an amazing mortuary landscape. donated his time to provide technical Toyne’s team was guided by techniques, using impressive quantities

Asociación Ukhupacha members, of stone, mortar, and tree trunks. Project partner: Ukhupacha / www.ukhupacha.uji.es Andrés Martí Puig University of Central Florida, Anthropology / www.anthropology.cos.ucf.edu Budget: $ 12,600 in 2013 (Ukhupacha) + $ 8,000 in 2013 (University)

14 PERU 15 Second Mountain Citizen Meetings Lessons learned from near-miss accidents

A climber nearly rappels off the end of his rope. A crew performing a mountain rescue experiences Coordination Montagne a mainline failure, but the backup holds. A cascade of ice and rock hurtles down a couloir, just missing a group of climbers. The analysis of near-miss accidents like these is essential to improve The national coordination for the development of mountaineering safety. That's why the Alpine Near Miss Survey (ANMS) was created. and mountain activities brings together institutions, professionals and mountain sports clubs from Unlike accidents resulting in injuries, near-misses like these poorly bolted or completely unpro- are not always reported, and so the lessons we can learn tected mountain areas and crags. from them are often lost. The ANMS study focused on these incidents that go unreported, but nevertheless share the Created as a result of the Moun- same causes and circumstances of incidents that cause taineering Assizes, that were held © Cory Jackson injury. Studies show that near-misses outnumber accidents in spring 2011, its role is to encou- by 10 to 1, which provides a much larger pool of incidents rage discussion and coordinated to study. Cory Jackson, lawyer, guide and mountain rescuer communication between mountain technician, set up a website to collect accounts of near- stakeholders and public authori- miss incidents. ties, and focus on access to the mountains for young people, trai- The ANMS allows climbers, guides, and search and rescue ning and accident prevention. professionals to report potentially serious incidents. Indus-

©Fondation Petzl tries and services including aviation and firefighting use near- The Petzl Foundation is an active miss reporting already, with valuable results and improved member of the Coordination safety systems and procedures. The ANMS seeks to bring Montagne and supports its actions. this type of reporting to the climbing world. What does the future hold for our mountains? What is their role in society? Building a new vision of mountains and sharing this The survey collects near-miss reports through an online survey platform, as well as through a mobile reporting app. with the general public was the aim of the first Mountain Citizen Users can download the ANMS iPhone app, allowing them Meetings in 2012. Throughout 2013, the issues raised were to report any near-misses direct from the field using photos, debated in follow-up meetings in France. text entry or voice recording.

In 2013, a campaign was launched to raise awareness of Driven by the Coordination Montagne (Mountain Coordina- www.appelpournosmontagnes.org. The talks will continue the Alpine Near-Miss Survey and to collect reports. Within tion), and with the Petzl Foundation playing an active role, at a national forum in Paris in 2016. the first few months of launching the survey, over a hundred these follow-up meetings further developed the "Call For reports were filed. Data from them was used in a presen- Our Mountains" initiative. The 2011 petition was signed by tation that was given at the International Technical Rescue 7,000 concerned citizens and awakened an awareness of Symposium in November 2013. The presentation was mountain issues among the general public. The goals of LES ACTES 2013 awarded “Best New Research” by symposium attendees. the second Mountain Citizen Meetings were to build new relationships between mountain communities and society The Petzl Foundation is assisting the Alpine Near Miss in general. They also explored innovative approaches for Survey with a grant to help finance this project, and is tourism and inhabitants of the mountains. aso helping to spread the message within the climbing community. After the success of the 2012 meetings, three debates were organized in Grenoble, during the Mountain Film Festival. Each evening, between 50 and 100 people took part in discussions relating to young mountaineers, risk manage- ment and the future of our mountains.

In June 2013, a gathering of climbers in the Gorges du Tarn - the Roc Trip - climbing route developers and nature The more we know about accidents, the better we can conservationists talked about sustainable target training and information that will help prevent them. installations and their long-term effects on the environment. In December 2013, a research seminar in the Ardèche led The Petzl Foundation encourages climbers, mountaineers, by geographers raised the question of homelessness and and search and rescue professionals to participate in its impact in mountainous areas. this project by utilizing the reporting tools developed by the Alpine Near Miss Survey. They are easy to use, allow Most of the views exchanged were published in the Acts of real-time reporting, and create an incredible learning tool, the Mountain Citizens Meetings, which is issued annually whereby we can all learn from each other. and downloadable at: www.coordination-montagne.fr and Please share your stories and make our mountains a safer place to work and play in: www.alpinenearmiss.org.

Project partner: Coordination Montagne / www.coordination-montagne.fr For more information: www.appelpournosmontagnes.org/rencontres-citoyennes Project partner: Alpine Near Miss Survey (ANMS), headquartered in Ouray, Colorado / www.alpinenearmiss.org Budget: € 10,000 in 2013 / Petzl Foundation involvement: 21 days Budget: $13,500 in 2013

16 FRANCE UNITED STATES 17 Training rescuers on Kalymnos

« I’m really glad to see that the people in Kalymnos finally have a real rescue team! I have already taken part in 17 rescues, including a few in very challenging conditions. For certain rescues, we did not even have a rescue stretcher at our disposal. Thanks to funds gathered by the owners of Glaros Bar, located in the village of Massouri, we have been able to purchase one. Today, with a solid commitment from Petzl and the Petzl Foundation, we have the right equipment and a team who know how to conduct rope rescues! »

Claude Idoux, French rescue volunteer, living on the island for 7 years. Photos © Stéphane Lozac'hmeur

What climber has not heard of Kalymnos? The Greek island located in the southeastern Aegean Sea is world-renowned for its many cliffs. More than 2,000 climbing routes for all levels have been opened there. In 2013, local residents set up a rescue service for climbers, with the full support of their local authorities.

Having seen the need for this type of transporting the injured to the closest and Marc Davies, both very satisfied service, the island’s business owners road. The Petzl Foundation contribu- with the result. "During the training (hotels, restaurants, sporting goods tion finances the rope rescue training sessions, their skills always proved to stores, etc.) joined forces to put toge- of the Kalymnos rescue team, which be at a very high level. After success- ther a cliff rescue team, especially for is already made up of six committed fully passing the technical evaluation, climbers. Tourists and climbers can volunteers. Petzl also provides all the we were proud to announce that all join this non-profit association. Their equipment they need at a reduced rate. of the clinic participants had the right membership fees help to cover costs knowledge and skills to competently and also serve to maintain existing The trainers from Lyon Equipment, and efficiently handle a rope rescue routes and develop new climbing Petzl’s distributor in Great Britain in Kalymnos. We are pleased to have Installation of permanent anchors for rope A practical session, which resulted in a successful rescue solution for areas. and specialists in technical training, contributed to training and certifying rescue, next to the famous Sikati cave. accidents in the Sikati cave. provided each team member with a the rescue team in Kalymnos." Volunteers from Kalymnos regularly rope rescue certificate validating their participate in rescues. However, cliff- skills. "These volunteers showed real The Kalymnos rescue team is now fully side rescues require specific skills and enthusiasm and are clearly committed operational. techniques, when setting up a system to developing a rescue team for the Project partner: Kalymnos rescue team / www.alternetgreece.com / www.facebook.com/kalymnosrescueservice to evacuate the injured from the cliff or island," explained trainers Bill Batson Budget: financing rope rescue training for volunteers: € 9,200 /Petzl Foundation involvment: 9 days

18 GREECE 19 Bio-caving expeditions in Morocco Banding young birds of prey

Every year since 2001, the Association Catalana de Biospeleologia has organized a caving expedition in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. The objective is to collect specimens of rare cave fauna, especially coleoptera (beetles), to study their genetic code. © Christian Itty Fifteen expeditions have been organized in Morocco for a systematic study of subterranean fauna. Ten new species of cavernicolous coleoptera have been discovered. However, some species of cave fauna have yet to be discovered. Their genetic code is needed to draw the complete family tree of coleoptera of the trechus genus.

Obtaining samples of the subterranean fauna is no easy task. Caving expeditions with vertical access expertise have to be organized. A collaboration has been established between the University Hasan II of Casablanca and the Catalan Association de Biospeologia. Amateur cavers, accompanied by Spanish and Moroccan biologists, took part in each of these scientific missions.

In 2013, with the support of the Petzl Foundation, a first expedtion into the Oujda caves, in the Beni Snassen moun- tains in the north of the country, succeeded in capturing many cave species, but unfortunately no coleoptera. A second expedition into the Ait Mehammed chasm in the Grand Atlas, gave good results, with the capture of the hypogeous subilsia senenti which was the primary objective of the expedition. The study of this specimen will conclude the work on the genes of this species.

As this expedition did not allow them to complete the study The Golden Eagle and the Bearded Vulture live and nest on cliffs high up in the mountains. To learn and description of domene, a new species of coleoptera, more about their habits and their habitats, nature conservationists band or ring the chicks using a discovered in 2012, the association is already planning the next mission for 2014. color coding system for better remote visual identification.

The coleoptera collected will be shared among the The Bearded Vulture remains one of the most endangered The Golden Eagle population in the Massif Central has researchers for their studies. Some of these specimens will species in Europe. After its disappearance in the early twen- only thirty-four breeding pairs, but it is strategic, because enhance the collections of the Natural Science Museum of tieth century, this bird of prey was reintroduced in France it provides the link between the populations in the French Barcelona. in the 1980s. Today, with twenty-two breeding pairs and Alps and the Pyrenees. This strategic population is threa- ten healthy young birds, their population has grown but still tened by any recreational activities which may disturb their remains critically low. Bearded Vultures are closely moni- reproduction process. tored in France by the Asters association to assess their health, and to observe the Alpine population and its inte- By studying their way of life and breeding patterns in the

Photos © Augustin Meseguer raction with the Pyrenean and Corsican populations. Asters Massif Central, potential problem areas can be identified also measure the effectiveness of conservation programs. and appropriate measures can be taken to protect their cliff habitats. Climbers and nature conservationists need to gain In 2013, to identify and track young birds born in the wild, the access to their nests so they can band the chicks. Asters association decided to band the chicks in the nest. The species is very sensitive to the slightest disturbance. In 2013, ten young birds were banded on eight different The chicks can only be banded when they are big enough sites in the Massif Central. They will return to their birth- and almost able to fly. Three breeding pairs live in Haute- places within four or five years. Those involved in their Savoie. Reproduction is not an easy process and only one protection will be able to recognize and observe them when chick has been banded so far. A network of volunteers and they become breeding pairs. climbers has been set up to observe its flight. The Petzl Foundation donated climbing equipment to Becot The Petzl Foundation funded this project and provided the association, who band and study birds for their protection technical equipment required. and monitor birds of prey in the Massif Central. Six new species of the trechus genus.

Project partners: Conservatoire départemental d'espaces naturels de Haute-Savoie, Asters / www.asters.asso.fr Project partners: Association Catalana de Biospeleologia / biosp.blogspot.com.es and BECOT / baguageoiseaux.overblog.com Budget: € 2,000 in 2013 Budget and equipment: € 5,000 in 2013 (Asters) and equipment

20 MOROCCO FRANCE 21 Studying permafrost to understand rockfall Monitoring the moraine lakes in Nepal

Permafrost is ground which has been frozen for at least two years. Its formation, thickness and eventual disappearance are closely related to climate change. Depending on temperature in mountainous areas, permafrost variations can lead to rockfall. An example of this is the disappearance of the famous Bonatti Pilier on the Dru in 2005. In 2013, the Petzl Foundation contributed to a research mission to study permafrost in rock walls.

Permafrost is often accompanied by the presence of ice, which acts as cement between two sides of a rock forma- tion, particularly in cracks and fissures. If the temperature of the ice rises, it loses its strength and rockfall occurs. Unlike glacial retreat, permafrost warming is an invisible pheno- menon. However, when the rock is homogeneous, we are now able to measure the temperature inside the walls at various depths using temperature sensors.

In 2005, the Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc moun- tain range was chosen as a pilot site for performing such measurements in the field. A meteorological station was set up at the top by Météo France, as well as automatic digital cameras to monitor changing snow conditions. Snow can change rock temperature due to its insulation properties.

To observe permafrost in real time and at depth, three boreholes were drilled into walls oriented to the northwest, northeast and south. A chain of fifteen temperature sensors

was inserted into each hole to a depth of ten meters. This Photos © Des Georisques et des Hommes allowed the researchers to observe the changes in the permafrost, caused by climate factors. The long-term aim is to study how temperature affects rock instability, particu- larly when this is due to the presence of fissures that make the rock fragile. In Nepal, at least twenty glacial lakes pose a significant danger to villages downstream. Moraine dams can collapse under the weight of the water and cause catastrophic floods, threatening local In 2013, with partial funding from the Petzl Foundation, a study conducted by the Association Développement populations, hikers and mountaineers. The Petzl Foundation is now supporting a new geotechnical Recherche Glissement de Terrain and the EDYTEM labo- study to find affordable solutions. ratory (University of Savoie - CNRS) examined the internal structure of the northwest wall of the Aiguille du Midi, which Accelerated glacial melting due to global warming is one of This mission also allowed the team to study two more was observed using ground penetrating radar. This elec- the root causes of the formation of an increasing number of lakes: Chola and Dudh Khunda, which also have a high risk tromagnetic measuring device scans the rock to reveal its glacial lakes. Meltwater and rain are trapped by old frontal of rupture, even if they are not currently on the danger list. internal structure. The radar operator descended with the and lateral moraines that act as natural dams, some of which device which was held firmly against the wall, so that the are not able to withstand the water pressure and burst. This project is also financed by the French foundation entire length of it could be measured. The radar-operator Rupture of a moraine dam usually results in the rapid draining Insolites Batisseurs. © Collection ADRGT abseiled down in particularly difficult conditions. of the lake which in turn causes catastrophic floods.

Two profiles of the wall have been made. Data acquisi- In November 2013, with significant support from the Petzl tion was immediately sent by wifi. This information will be Foundation, a mission to investigate the glacial lake rupture processed to obtain an image of the internal structure which risks in Nepal was undertaken by the association "Des « In the mountains, measurements cannot be random. will show the increase of fracturing and will enable poten- géorisques et des hommes". They surveyed two sites at Everything must be prepared in advance when you're tial slippage plans to be drawn up. In the long term, we risk and produced a risk analysis for two lakes which are hanging on the end of a rope. We must anticipate hope to understand how these fractures affect the evolution considered to be potentially dangerous. hazards, such as wind and cold. We got a set of of temperature within the rock and so anticipate potential unique, clear and accurate data that we could compare rockfall sites. The Thulagi lake is 4,040 meters high. It measures 2.4 km in with rock temperature data. For us this is a real source length and is about 400 meters wide. It has already ruptured of satisfaction! twice. The 2013 survey of this lake confirmed the current In addition, this project has allowed us to work in a strength of the moraine dam. The Lumding lake dam, nestled magnificent place. » at an altitude of 5,000 meters, appears strong because of its width and the presence of shallow bedrock. The researchers Héloïse Cadet (ADRGT) focused on one of two smaller lakes upstream, where the and Florence Magnin (EDYTEM) dam presents a greater risk. Its discharge into the main lake could potentially submerge the Lumding lake dam.

Project partner: Association Développement Recherche Glissement de Terrain (landslide research development association) Project partner: Association des géorisques et des hommes (geohazards and men) / www.association-gdh.com Budget: € 7,100 in 2013 Budget: € 15,000 in 2012 and € 17,500 in 2013

22 FRANCE NEPAL 23 Developing telecommunications with Inveneo Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports

« I would like to say thank you for all your efforts helping our people through ICT, here in Philippines. None of us will forget the training that Inveneo gave us to use safety gear in our future installations. My team cannot wait to get started! » © Overgaag © Claudia Lopez

Jayson Orebia, Inveneo partner and founder of the local wireless ISP called Innovate ICT, in Philippines Paradox Sports envisions a world where people of all backgrounds and abilities can pursue a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports, regardless of physical disability. Paradox Sports provides inspiration, opportunities, and adaptive equipment to the disabled community, Engineer Jane checks elevation on a Ubiquiti Rocket- enabling their pursuit of a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports. © Andris Bjornson Dish on the Internet tower at Gulu University, Uganda.

In 2013 Paradox Sports hosted eleven successful Inveneo is a non-profit social enterprise which designs and delivers sustainable information and events offering recreational sport experiences to several communication technology (ICT) tools to those who need it most in the developing world. Their team hundred participants in different environments: ice, water, « After I lost my foot, I was climbing before I could wilderness, and rock. Paradox Sports also sponsored eight walk, and I think that I actually figured out walking a lot aims to transform lives through better education, healthcare, economic opportunities and faster relief. indoor rock climbing events at an adaptive climbing club quicker than I would have, had I not been climbing at Inveneo and its partners have delivered projects in more than 25 countries and is impacting the lives they co-founded in Boulder, Colorado, USA. the time. Top-roping in a allowed me of over 3 million people in some of the poorest and most challenging regions. The Petzl Foundation to figure out how to progressively weight and unweight has supported Inveneo since 2011 by providing verticality training and climbing equipment. Paradox Sports is in the final phase of completing a the prosthetic, and to learn how it behaved, without the comprehensive adaptive climbing curriculum, which fear of falling.» underscores the importance of inclusiveness and the Tower climbing and work-at-height are critical components Inveneo had an assessment team on the ground a week communal well-being that adaptive sports provide. To Christa Brelsford, climber with a below-the-knee amputation of Inveneo’s work in telecommunications. The technologies after the typhoon struck. Following the assessment, they supplement their existing adaptive climbing training clinics, they work with require clear line-of-sight to operate, which provided relief workers with essential technical tools, inclu- the Petzl Foundation brings financial assistance for the means installing antennas on towers high above moun- ding high quality headlamps and solar chargers provided by creation of a printed instructional manual. This how-to tains, trees and other obstructions. the Petzl Foundation and Goal Zero. guide for adaptive climbing is designed to be used by anyone involved with adaptive sports from individuals Support from the Petzl Foundation has enabled Inveneo Inveneo also engaged with a local Internet Service Provider to climbing gyms. This informative manual also includes A D A P T I V E to bring local partner training programs into the vertical (ISP) called Innovate ICT. Prior to the typhoon, Innovate’s simple instructions on creating and operating a local C L I M B I N G world. In 2013, Inveneo engineers climbed towers and deli- network provided broadband services to schools and local adaptive climbing club program. BY vered the jointly developed Inveneo / Petzl Tower Safety NGOs across Leyte and Samar. Innovate’s network was PARADOX SPORTS Workshop to tower climbers and engineers in 5 countries: devastated by typhoon winds (which gusted as high as 370 The manual is comprised of six main chapters, written by Micronesia, Palau, Uganda, Kenya and the Philippines. kph). Innovate is rebuilding with tower construction teams Dougald MacDonald, current editor for the American Alpine Equipment was also provided. working to get masts back up. Inveneo ran the Innovate team Club’s publications, along with Paradox Sports’ Curriculum through an intensive “wireless ISP bootcamp” that included Director, Pete Davis. Information in this instructional guide Inveneo has experience supporting NGOs with emergency the Inveneo / Petzl Tower Safety Workshop, and hands-on also draws from the experience of leading adaptive climbing communications, such as the 2010 earthquake in Haiti. It training in network deployment and network design with the athletes, adaptive outdoor educators, and adaptive sports proved vital when Typhoon Haiyan devastated large areas goal of enabling Innovate to build back connectivity in the agencies. The manual is scheduled for completion in early of Leyte and Samar islands in the Philippines in November region more robustly, efficiently, and safely. 2014, and will be available on Paradox Sports website. 2013, and Inveneo was asked to respond.

Project partner: Inveneo / www.inveneo.org Project partner: Paradox Sports (IRS public charitable organization) Budget: Safety equipment in 2013, € 13,000 since 2011 www.paradoxsports.org A HANDBOOK FOR INSTRUCTORSCLIMBERS & Budget: $ 3,000 in 2013

SmallerText2.indd 1 2/19/14 10:46 AM 24 PHILIPPINES / UGANDA UNITED STATES 25 Training climbing instructors in the Mandé Defending access to climbing sites

« The Petzl Foundation is a key player in making these activities possible. The 2013 grant allowed us to orga- nize a hands-on workshop for Brazilian activists, create educational campaigns, advance our mission, and inspire local activists to join local climbing organiza- tions: a few significant steps to a better world in the mountains. » © Santiago Christophersen

Kika Bradford, Executive Director, Acceso PanAm © Thérèse Touré © Thérèse

The Mandé, "the cradle of Mali", is home to an exceptional natural heritage. The sandstone cliffs of In Latin America, there are many threats to our precious climbing areas: hydroelectric dams, mining the Manding Mountains are a popular . In 2005, young Malians from the village of Siby operations, unsustainable tourism and development, all have the potential to endanger climbing set up a climbing cooperative, called An Ka Yelen ("climb" in Bambara). With the support of the Calao access, as well as the environment. This is where Acceso PanAm (APA) comes in. association and funded by the Petzl Foundation, some of them have now become climbing instructors. Acceso PanAm members believe access and environ- climbing areas across five different countries: Argentina, As fully-qualified instructors, climbing has become their At that time, the instructors also received the excellent news mental conservation are two sides of the same coin, reinfor- Brazil, Honduras, Peru, Urugay. profession. Today, these young people of Siby guide foreign that an agreement had at last been signed betweeen the cing and supporting each other. Access to climbing sites, tourists, school groups and the inhabitants of Bamako, on National Park of Bamako and the An Ka Yelen cooperative. when coupled with education, increases awareness, which In 2013, Acceso PanAm continued the education of local the sandstone cliffs around their village. To further develop This agreement covers the use, maintenance and repair of leads to stewardship and, ultimately, sustainability. advocates – raising awareness of the varied issues that local income from this ecotourism, visitor accommodation climbing installations in the Park. More importantly, it will may limit access to climbing venues, building up their was built between 2010 and 2012, with financial support facilitate access for school groups to the Park's installations. By focusing on a grassroots approach to conservation and knowledge base, sharing best practices, and coaching from the Petzl Foundation. Two classes of Bamako school children have already been stewardship in Latin America, APA invests in the protection them in negotiations. able to discover the joys of climbing. of the mountains for today and tomorrow. Since change However, political instability in Mali has worsened conside- must begin at the local level, their strategy focuses on long- A workshop was set up by the climbing federation of rably and has led to unrest in many parts of the country. As term training projects designed to develop competent local MInas Gerais in Brazil. This federation had been the victim a result, on-site training planned for five new instructors in activists and strong local organizations. of numerous site access restrictions imposed upon them 2013 had to be postponed. Instead, three mountain bike by mining companies, coffee plantations, and private instructors from the An Ka Yelen cooperative, were sent to In 2012, they launched their first educational campaign, landowners. The workshop hosted conferences, debates, Morocco where they received advanced training. called "Gorilla", for the protection of local climbing sites. and case studies to enable participants to master strate- Building on their initial success, to further their outreach gies which would help them gain and preserve climbing Also, in December 2013, several An Ka Yelen climbing and promote conservation, APA started the “A Limpiar access in protected areas and private property. It also gave instructors were given refresher training on safety and Nuestras Montañas” (Clean Up our Mountains) campaign the participating climbers the opportunity to share their instructional techniques. This allowed them to bring their in 2013. More than 140 volunteers from 10 local climbing experiences and best pratices when defending climbing technical skills up to date, while checking and reparing organizations joined together on 27 projects to clean up site access. equiped climbing routes.

Project partner: Calao / www.calaoasso.org Project partner: Acceso PanAm / www.accesopanam.com.

Budget: € 10,000 between 2012 and 2013 © Collection Calao Budget: € 4,800 in 2013.

26 MALI LATIN AMERICA 27 Other projets supported in 2013

Two new versions of the UIAA Prevention through information handbook Continuing prevention work under- The UIAA handbook is now available taken on the couloir du Goûter, the in English, thanks to cooperation leaflet produced by the Mountain between the Petzl Foundation and the Coordination and the Petzl Founda- Canadian Alpine Club. tion is now available in ten languages: This handbook aims to facilitate French, German, Italian, Spanish, the implementation of UIAA training English, Dutch, Polish, Czech, standards by giving instructors and Russian and Turkish. More than leaders a practical training tool for 200,000 copies have already been trekking, climbing and mountainee- distributed through mountain maga- ring. Translations into Serbian, Turkish zines, alpine clubs, tourist offices and and Nepalese are ongoing. The guide offices. French version has also been revised and a chapter on via ferrata tech- niques has been added. This version

is available from the French, Canadian ©Altiperf and Belgian Alpine Clubs. Gaining a better understanding of altitude tolerance

By comparing the performances of top level mountaineers from the FFCAM © Simon Fléchaire group of excellence with those of low altitude athletes sharing the same charac- teristics: age, gender, maximum O2 and VO2 consumption, the Altiperf research Climbing instructors for Armenia team from Inserm and the FFCAM have been trying to better understand altitude tolerance mechanisms to improve training programs. After the political upheavals of the last century, the young people of Armenia are now keen to develop mountain sports once again, build links with climbers from Contrary to common belief, moun- would appear to preserve the same other countries and learn modern climbing techniques. With this in mind, an taineers spending more than 80 blood oxygen levels, but lower repira- agreement of cooperation has been set up between a local Armenian club called days per year above an altitude of tory performance. Would they there- Up The Rocks, the French Climbing Instructors Union, and the Petzl Foundation. 2,000 meters, experience a drop in fore be able to keep a respiratory© CDB Habitiat their performance due to hypoxia, in response capacity for higher altitude? Their aim is to organize training for some climbing routes alongside the same way as low altitude athletes. This is a new question and the answer climbing instructors in accordance fellow Armenian climbers who are Their heart tests also produce similar may lie in the analyses of oxygen levels The Turkish leaflet. with the UIAA training standards. To commited to their new national fede- results whereas low altitude athletes in the muscles and in the brain. For assess their needs, two French clim- ration, the Armenian Alpine Club, appear to have stronger respiratory the time being, our bodies' response Following on from the opening of bing instructors, Vasken Koutoudjian which was founded in 2013. Their test results. Training at high altitude to altitude remains a mystery. the Goûter refuge and the new pres- and Simon Fléchaire, took part in the first training course should take place ence of gendarmes near the couloir Arev festival in the Noravank gorges in the autumn of 2014. This club may du Goûter (on prefectural orders), in Armenia in May 2013. There, well be supported by the French Will the Vallot observatory be saved? the Petzl Foundation has continue to they met with school children and Alpine Club in the future. Training news from Nepal defend the idea that prevention must youth workers. They also equipped The Vallot observatory is the last remaining scientific research base in the valley of first be achieved through informa- Trekking leader training courses are Chamonix. In 2013, the CNRS (National Scientific Research Center) announced tion. We have also fought to eliminate now underway in the Kakani center plans to sell this old laboratory which was built in 1890 by the scientist Joseph the confusion between high-altitude near Katmandu. The Petzl Foundation Vallot. In his will, Joseph Vallot left his observatory to the nation on condition that camping which is harmful to the envi- has worked hard to bring together it should continue to house scientific research. However the CNRS has failed to ronment, and bivouacking, which is key people from independent foreign honour this commitment by wanting to sell it for a non-research purpose. an integral part of mountaineering. structures to create a common We have also argued that any deci- training approach. On the initiative of The Petzl Foundation intervened but we must further strengthen CREA sion made must be based on expert the UIAA and with our full support, the together with the Chamonix town and ensure the development of an knowledge. A detailed study of Mont Kakani training courses have been set council, and the Alpine Ecosystems open space for science at the foot of Blanc foot traffic also needs to be up in coordination with the Slovenian Research Centre (CREA) which Mont Blanc. undertaken to acquire this knowledge. Alpine Club and the Dutch NGO SNV, currently occupies the premises. We both of which are active players in the wanted to express our commitment field of training. to maintaining the scientific nature of this symbolic place. We reminded This program was designed on the the govermnent ministers in charge of © CREA basis of work carried out by the Petzl research that the pursuit of knowledge Foundation over several years, with was interwoven with the conquest of the advice of UIAA member Steve the Alpine peaks from the very begin- Long, and Éric Lescarcelle, who is a ning. We also wanted to demonstrate Petzl Group skills transfer volunteer in the relevance of the CREA projects, Nepal. and the interest shown by the general public in them. In August 2013, the © Eric Lescarcelle government announced the cancella- A training course at the Kakani center in Nepal. tion of the sale. This is our first victory, 28 29 Other projets supported in 2013 Call for environmental projects

The eagle will take off! Every year, the Petzl Foundation supports associations by inviting them to present their environmental conservation projects that are related to Petzl’s main area of expertise: vertical terrain. The old building of the Refuge de l'Aigle, dating back to 1910 was More than just providing funding, the Petzl Foundation also offers practical assistance to these dismantled in September 2013. After organizations. 10 years of intense discussions, the mountain community has rallied

© Collection Point d'eau around a new architectural project which unites almost everyone's expectations with regard to the preservation of the refuge, while respecting the site and adapting it to today's needs.

A total consensus has not been reached yet, as there is still some opposition to this new project. On 9 July 2013, the French courts dismissed the appeal from the "Amis du Refuge de l'Aigle" who opposed the permit for the new building. The The Summits of Dignity mountain community hopes that this decision of the courts will put an end The «Point d’eau» (water point) association helps people in financial difficulty. to the dispute surrounding the refuge They decided to use the power of the mountains to help people regain their de l'Aigle. The new refuge will return dignity, because up high, there is no noise, and more importantly, no social to its place at 3,450 meters in the

distinction. On the peaks, Jafar, Mohamed, Abdel and Viktor found a new sense Massif des Ecrins, in July 2014. © Florian Racaché / Mountain Wilderness of self-esteem. The "Quiet Zones" project, led by the The Petzl Foundation contributed to the production of the film "The Summits Mountain Wilderness association, was of Dignity", a twenty-minute documentary directed by Yoann Perié. The movie financed in 2012 and 2013, as part of achieved great success when it was shown at the Mountain Film Festival in Selection criteria the call for environmental projects. Grenoble in November 2013. It aims to preserve areas of tranquility The project should: for urban populations.

> be proposed by a non-profit organization, > aim to protect natural areas whose natural and recreation environments are directly threatened anywhere in the world, > be related to outdoor sporting activities like rock climbing, moun- taineering, or for the professional sectors, such as work at height, tree trimming, rescue, etc. > be focused on core problems and relate to preventive and not corrective action, Supporting the EOCA > directly involve the public, > be long-term, taking at least one to two years, The European Outdoor Conservation > have a timeline and be results-oriented, with quantifiable objectives. Association (EOCA) is a group of businesses in the European outdoor The Petzl Foundation does not manufacturing industry, who have 2014 call for projects dates: finance: come together to raise investment funds for conservation projects - From June first 2014, complete the application (at www.fondation-petzl. - Projects proposed by private indivi- worldwide. In the first 7 years of org/propose-project) by answering each question as clearly as possible. duals or profit-making organizations. Facing the Vanoise their existence, the EOCA have - File to be submitted in electronic format by September 15 2014, to the supported 54 projects to the tune of following address: [email protected] - Requests from public authorities In 1963, the Vanoise National Park was the first park established in France. A over €1,200,000. As a not-for-profit - October 2014, projects are selected by the Foundation’s Board of Trustees. or state delegations, except in the recent law that aims to give more decision-making power back to local officials organization, every new member that - November 2014, among the selected projects, the best three are field of research. has caused controversy. In the film "Facing the Vanoise", Yoann, who is a young joins the EOCA means more money nominated by the Petzl Foundation for the EOCA award and the possibility mountaineer from the Tarentaise Valley, goes skiing and mountaineering, walking for more projects. of gaining additional funding of up to € 30, 000. - Profit-oriented, promotional or and paragliding, from the Mount Pourri to the Dent Parrachée, to try to shed light As one of its founding members, the - July 2015, EOCA results are published. advertising projects. on the ongoing tensions around the Vanoise National Park. Petzl Foundation nominates three projects for funding each year. Directed by Nicolas Hairon, this film was partly funded by the Petzl Foundation, along with the Mountain Widerness Association. It was shown at the Mountain Film Festival in Grenoble in November 2013. Present your project: www.fondation-petzl.org/propose-project

30 31 Key figures

YEAR 2013 PROJECTS SUPPORTED IN 2013

After a first operating cycle from 2005 to 2010, the Petzl Foundation was extended for an additional three-year cycle In 2013, 13 projects received over € 5,000 of funding. (2011-2013), testifying to the commitment of the Petzl group and its foundation to the vertical community.

35 000 €

Fund use: € 359,108 30 000 € 1 - Banding the Bearded Vulture 25 000 € 2 - Film "Les Chants de l'eau" Projects: 3 - Training in Zanskar General administration: € 288,288 20 000 € 4 - Mountain training with UIAA € 70,820 5 - Date palm workers in Algeria 6 - Rescuers training in Kalymnos 15 000 € 20 % 7 - Ukhupacha and archeology in Peru 16 % 8 - Couloir du Goûter - Mont Blanc 10 000 € 9 - Mountain techniques handbook 10 - Medical study with FFCAM 11 - Mountain accidents study 5 000 € 11 - The Conscrits footbridge 12 - "Relping hand" projets

0 13 - Mountain Citizen Meetings 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 17 % 50 %

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 80 % 451 114 311 910 398 239 283 357 337 542 401 433 351 917 351 232 17 % Income in € Split

Project contributions 43 420 138 182 144 528 138 203 89 729 133 005 174 633 195 882 55 %

Other projects costs 38 608 110 363 147 227 84 836 63 781 37 646 42 926 47 382 13 %

Taxes 569 588 886 794 677 401 412 419 0 % Project grant distribution: € 288,288 Salaries 64 655 120 599 166 506 177 031 182 311 112 463 111 223 112 963 31 %

Uses Amortization 1 647 3 599 6 930 3 304 2 400 6 117 5 600 2 462 1 %

Profit / loss 0 28 0 143 55 976 3 0 0 % Future Risk prevention and education: projects: € 144,688 Total uses 148 899 373 359 466 077 404 311 338 953 290 608 334 796 359 108 € 46,476 20 % 16 % Net profit 302 215 - 61 449 - 67 838 - 120 954 - 1 411 110 825 17 121 - 7 876

Research: 2006 / 2013 Dplit General section Projects € 47,991 Project contributions 1 057 582 39 % 565 1 057 017 17 % 50 % Other projects costs 572 769 21 % 351 041 221 728

Taxes 4 746 0 % 4 746

Salaries 1 047 751 39 % 446 196 601 555

80 % Split of uses Environment: Amortization 32 059 1 % 32 059 € 49,133 17 % Profit / loss 1 205 0 % 1 205

Total uses 2 716 112 835 812 1 880 300

The Petzl Foundation’s accounts are administered by the Petzl Group’s accounting department. Since 2006, the foundation has created, supported and funded nearly 90 public interest projects throughout the world, The accounts are audited annually by CCI CONSEILS in Lyon. representing a contribution of more than 2.7 million euros, of which €1,800,000 have been spent directly on project grants. 32 33 In the words of the foundation trustees

The Petzl Foundation is an independent, legal entity controlled by a board of trustees. Seven qualified experts and five Petzl employees provide direction for the Foundations strategic choices.

EXTERNAL MEMBERS INTERNAL MEMBERS

Blaise Agresti, gendarme and mountain « The foundation has helped to deepen my understanding of the Chris Blakeley, is originally from northern « Supporting some of the most inspired projects worldwide is guide in Chamonix, is responsible for mountains, connecting worlds and taking action. With each project, England and manages the development exciting, not only to see the benefits to the ventures themselves CNISAG mountain gendarme training. I become more aware of the urgent necessity to undertake joint of the Petzl Solutions network and also but more so to the communities involved. The variety and quality action, which crosses our divisions and boundaries. We owe it to practical experimentation within the of projects presented to the Petzl Foundation always impresses our children that these mountains remain alive and open to all. » V.axess building. me - and the commitment of their creators. »

« Passionate about the mountains, sensitive to the environ- Simone Allibert, chairman of Allibert « For me, beyond the Petzl company, the contribution from Hervé Bodeau manages multimedia ment and its fragile ecosystems, I am delighted to be part of Voyages, involved in promoting our foundation to projects of general interest around safety publications and corporate communi- the Petzl Foundation, which is totally in line with my values. » sustainable development though and development of vertical activities is really meaningful. » cations within the Petzl group. responsible tourism.

Bernard Amy, cognitive science « Why did I agree to join the Petzl Foundation team? Peter Popall, a German national, is the « Access that seemed impossible has always been researcher, one of the founders of First, because it is a great way to defend mountains and Petzl group’s current vice president, having my favorite challenge. Today, sharing this with the association Mountain Wilderness mountaineers, and secondly, because it is a bridge between held various operational positions within the communities around the world is my motivation. » France, mountaineer, traveler and writer. the world of industry and the world of mountaineering. » group. He is the soul of our commitment to the vertical world.

« Working with the Petzl Foundation gives me the opportunity Roody Rasmussen is currently Petzl « It is a joy and an honor to be part of the " Petzl band " through Éric de Kermel, Managing Director of to team with other like-minded organizations to bring America’s senior vice-president, having the Foundation. Behind the Petzl brand, there is a sense of Bayard Nature et Territoires, and Vice forth creative projects that benefit the environment, and previously been their president. He is very commitment to a renewed relationship between man and nature Chairman of the UICN. A man of convic- improve techniques and enhance safety for the greater active in the field of corporate philanthropy and the mountain universe, which is close to my heart.» tion and commitment to man and nature. climbing community. » and is currently the Foundation's project director for the Americas.

François Lemarchand, founder « When I created the Nature et Découvertes Foundation, 20 chairman of Nature & Découvertes, a years ago, I wanted all the people who work in the company to long-standing supporter of conserva- share beliefs beyond simply doing a good job. The Founda- tion actions via his two foundations. tion has become one of the key sources of pride for all of our PRESIDENT GENERAL SECRETARY teams. I hope the Petzl Foundation will follow the same path! »

« I was very honored when I was asked to join the Foundation Luc Moreau freelance glaciologist, Paul Petzl has committed his Olivier Moret was appointed team. Suggesting the study of waterfall ice was logical. Today, Doctor of Alpine Geography, researcher company to serve all vertical commu- secretary general in March 2014. this study helps me during my course at ENSA, to provide and author of several documentaries nities. For 40 years, implementing answers to frequently asked questions from aspiring guides.» and films about glaciers. his employees’ innovative ideas has Contact: guided his choices. [email protected]

Marc Séraphin, trek leader and « The Foundation is a wonderful facilitator of communication. Philippe Descamps was secretary rope access technician. For instance, it has enabled me to enter the dangerous world PROJECT MANAGER general from March 2011 to February of palm tree farming and help those people work more safely. » 2014.

Annual report production: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur joined the foundation in October 2007. Authors: Philippe Descamps / Stéphane Lozac'hmeur / Roody Rasmussen English translation: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur / Polly Brown Contact: Proofreader: Roody Rasmussen [email protected] Graphic design & layout: Arnaud Michelland 34 35 Mission intheGhardaia oasisinAlgeriaNovember2013. [email protected] www.petzl-fondation.org + 33(0)456581998 PETZL FOUNDATION 38920 Crolles ZI deCrolles Cidex 105A France

© Philippe Descamps