Volume II Segment 4 ‐ Australia Sydney; Arlie Beach; Cairns; Darwin; Broome; Geraldton; Perth

Fight Flight or Freeze: When Everything Changed

Lenora Billings‐Harris, CSP, CPAE Australia

Ports: Sydney; Arlie Beach; Cairns; Darwin; Broome; Geraldton; Perth

Our first clue that the coronavirus would have an impact on our world cruise was on February 12th when the Kingdom of Tonga denied permission for the ship to dock at their port due to concern about the spread of the virus. Although disappointed, we understood their caution. The total population of this island country is 108,000 and the port town of Nuku’alofa has only 17,000 residents. They did not want to take a risk.

We continued our journey by following the initial itinerary that would take us to Fiji and then New Zealand. As we then sailed toward Tasmania a very rough storm required a change in plans. We by‐passed Tasmania and headed for Sydney, we were to arrive a day early on March 1st .

This is where everything changed.

The Captain called a meeting for all guests on February 29th. I feared he would announce that a guest or crew member had contracted the coronavirus. Thankfully, that was not the case. We had learned earlier that Singapore had closed their port, and that closing would impact all Asian destinations except Mumbai. We expected to visit a few ports in Australia and then head directly to Mumbai. However, we were informed at the meeting that our world cruise would terminate in Perth on March 19th. New routing would be added taking us around the continent after we left Sydney. Any guests who wished to terminate their trip in Sydney could do so. Additionally, as a precaution, no passengers who had planned to start their segment of the cruise in Sydney would be allowed to board.

2 Up to this point there were approximately 350 world cruisers and another 300+ segment guests. Additionally, there were over 600 staff and crew. Many segment guests were scheduled to disembark in Sydney, but the resulting exodus was much greater. The crew members* that had been scheduled to disembark in Singapore were informed they would have to depart in Sydney. Of the approximate 30 plus guests who used walkers or motorized chairs fewer than eight stayed onboard for the remainder of the cruise. Most passengers with health issues such as diabetes, heart conditions or weakened immune systems decided to end their cruise.

At the outset of the cruise, the average age of passengers was 70. I met a seasoned world cruising couple in their 90’s! (The ship’s staff calculates average age using passenger passports. This information helps them prepare for potential health emergencies.)

Fear of the unknown causes people to react emotionally. Fight, flight or freeze behaviors were evident among guests. The fighters continued the cruise; the flighters left in Sydney; those who froze had the highest need to verbalize their anxiety as they tried to determine their best course of action.

So why did we stay? Given the news we were following on TV, this ship was the safest place in the world to be. The Captain had instituted several health and safety measures for passengers and crew well before the notification of a truncated cruise.

As we departed Sydney and headed for the Great Barrier Reef and Arlie Beach the sparse number of passengers remaining was painfully visible. Ultimately there were fewer than 225 guests continuing this journey on a ship built for 980 guests. There were more crew members than passengers.

As the modified cruise continued, the passengers became more friendly toward each other. This was already a polite and friendly group, but now we all shared something in common. In times of crisis, people band together regardless of their differences. We were adventurers on a world cruise that wasn’t. I will share more detail regarding my onboard observations about people in the next (and final) update.

3 Sydney was fully open for tourists when we arrived on March 1st. We were there for three days and two nights, so there was plenty of time to enjoy the city for those of us continuing the cruise. (Our second visit to Sydney as we headed home was much different.)

Unlike New Zealand where the Māori culture is evident everywhere, and Māori people are visible in day to day life, the Aborigine culture and people are far less present. Sadly, I found this to be true in every port‐of‐ call in Australia. (See Broome below for my one encounter.)

Since this visit to Sydney was not our first, Charles and I decided to venture into a neighborhood where ordinary people live. We wanted to go beyond what tourists see, so we scheduled an Uber to take us to Paramatta, a suburb of Sydney. We experienced bumper to bumper traffic getting there, dined at a local restaurant, observed bike paths and parks and a thriving commercial district. This is a very diverse suburb filled with young professionals. We returned to downtown Sydney by ferry. The ferry ride was like the Atlanta Marta rail system but on water. It made many stops and crisscrossed the waterway to get to some of them. It was a very long, relaxing and enjoyable ride. Ferries are the primary mode of transportation for a large segment of the Sydney metro population. What a pleasant way to get around.

From the ship I was able to see the Government House, which flies the flag of Australia, the Aboriginal flag and the Torres Strait Islander flag. When the indigenous people’s flags were made permanent on the property a few years ago, there were major protests in opposition, but the flags prevailed.

As we circumvented Australia more news about the virus circulated. Most ports‐of‐call became almost like ghost towns. Australians were self‐ isolating well before it became a national mandate.

4 Arlie Beach, which is usually a popular destination for scuba divers and back‐packers visiting the Reef was open for business, but for a summer destination, it had no crowds. Although the weather was warm enough for swimming and snorkeling, only a few brave souls were in the water due to the dangerous “stingers.” These are very small translucent jelly fish with a sting so painful that one attack requires a hospital visit. Only people with full wet suits including coverings for hands, head and lips could venture into the water. (See my photo of the warning sign.)

Cairns is normally a main destination for Chinese tourists, and Australian vacationers. The streets were deserted, but shops and restaurants were open ‐ empty but open. As the coronavirus continued to impact more countries and travel became more questionable, several crew members were informed they had to disembark in Cairns instead of continuing to Perth.

Darwin and Broome were wonderful locations to get a sense of the Out Back. Darwin is known for its national park and great beaches (There are great beaches around the entire continent.), and Broome is the place to go to ride camels or buy the largest pearls in the world.

I was interested in connecting with the local folks so I ventured to a supermarket was in a small shopping mall. As I entered the enclosed air‐ conditioned concourse that led to the supermarket, I noticed a neatly dressed Aborigine family of five entering behind me. The three children were quiet and attentive. It was a very hot day. After they entered the concourse, they sat down on two benches seemingly to cool off for a moment. Before they could catch their breath, a security guard walked over to them and insisted that they move. “No loitering,” he said. I glanced at the mom and dad who said nothing. They just bowed their heads and gathered the children and then entered the supermarket secured a grocery cart and began to do their shopping. I’ve seen this type of encounter so many times in the States that I was not surprised, but disappointed.

5 By the time we reached Broome on March 15th the virus was fully impacting the economy. The supermarket shelves were almost empty ‐ no meat or eggs, cold medicines, or toilet paper. The only other stores open were pearl jewelers. The weather was very hot and sunny, which under normal circumstances would attract beach goers and others for outside activities.

Geraldton refused permission for the ship to dock. Oh no! Passenger anxiety rose as we wondered if the same thing would happen in Perth. The ship was well stocked so perhaps we would just head to Hawaii, Los Angeles or even Miami, which was were our cruise started. At sea days are filled with much to do, so this would not be a bad thing.

Our cruise did end in Perth on March 19th. The city was not officially in a lock down when we arrived, however within eighteen hours the Prime Minister requested voluntary social distancing across the country.

*********

In my final update, I will share our experiences in Perth and the challenges of getting home. We arrived on March 21st, and are safe and healthy, as we practice a voluntary quarantine for two weeks.

*The cruise company provided crew members with airline tickets to their home country, just as they would have done in normal end of contract circumstances.

6 Entering Sydney Harbor at Dawn

7 Government House ‐ Sydney

8 Koalas So Cute!

9 Kangaroos and Wallabies Hanging Out Together

10 Departing Sydney on a New Route The Opera House as Night Falls

11 Arlie Beach

Full moon at the Great Barrier Reef

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