Further information Great Barrier Aotea / Base Private Bag 96002 Island/Aotea Great Barrier Island 0961 Marine Park PHONE: 09 429 0044 EMAIL: [email protected] www.doc.govt.nz

Published by: Department of Conservation DOC Aotea / Great Barrier Island Base Private Bag 96002 Great Barrier Island October 2019 Editing and design: DOC Creative Services, Conservation House, Wellington Front cover: Aotea Track. Photo: Andris Apse Back cover: Kākā landing in a pōhutukawa tree. Photo: Leon Berard

This publication is produced using paper sourced from well-managed, renewable and legally logged forests. R153740 Contents Aotea and Ngāti Rehua Aotea and Ngāti Rehua...... 1 The island renown Ridge to reef...... 2 The west coast ...... 3 Aotea is the ancestral land of the The east coast ...... 3 Ngāti Rehua hapū of Ngāti Wai. It is Marine life...... 4 the southeastern outpost of the tribal rohe of the Ngāti Wai . Seabirds...... 4 Rich history ...... 5 Although each island, islet and rock has its own individual character and identity, Aotea is Mining...... 5 viewed as a single physical and spiritual entity Whaling...... 6 over which a ‘spiritual grid’ lies. At its centre Shipwrecks...... 6 stands Hirakimata (Mt Hobson), the maunga Historic buildings...... 6 tapu of Ngāti Rehua. To the north of the island Kauri...... 7 is Nga Tara Tara o Toi (Needles Point). To the west is Rangiahua Island (Flat Island) and Living treasures...... 8 Mahuki Island (Anvil Island). To the east is Native and endemic plant life ...... 8 Kaitoke Kohatu, with Motu Tohora to the south. Reptiles and amphibians...... 9 The southernmost landmarks of Ngāti Wai are Marine life ...... 9 the Manaia and Ruahine mountains that stand above Rangitawhiri/Tryphena. Birds ...... 10 The memories, traditions and identity of a Wild spaces...... 12 people with one thousand years of ancestral associations are captured in this pepeha/ Detailed map of tracks on proverb, which dates back to the early arrival Great Barrier Island/Aotea...... 14 of the Aotea . Aotea Track ...... 16

Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) Aotea whakahirahira Aotea the island summit tracks ...... 18 Aotea taonga maha of renown area tracks...... 22 Aotea utanganui Aotea the island of many treasures area tracks...... 24 Aotea of the / area tracks. . . . . 26 bountiful cargo Help look after the Hauraki Gulf . . . . 28

Photo: Eugene Polkan y, Aiguill e ra es gl Isl a an E d . Ridge to reef P h o t o :

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k Park extends over an area of 1.2 million islands and indented fiords o hectares of coast, marine environment formed from flooded river v and islands. It is protected because its valleys, such as the spectacular natural and cultural heritage is rich, drowned valley system of Port Fitzroy. Boating, fishing and sea kayaking diverse and unique. are popular activities here, and you can explore Aotea and the Hauraki Gulf were formed at the end fascinating heritage sites, such as the old whaling of the last ice age when volcanic activity caused sea station at Whangaparapara. levels to rise. The higher land of Aotea separated from what is now the and The east coast became an island. Sea cliffs dominate the northwest The eastern coastline is popular with surfers and and southeast coasts of the island. Rakitu Island swimmers, thanks to its sweeping white sands and (Arid Island) and other small islands and groups of beautiful beaches backed by tidal creeks and wetlands. rocks are dotted along its coast. Whangapoua estuary is one of the least-modified wetlands in , and is valuable for coastal Captain named the island Great and wetland birds. Barrier in 1769 for the shelter and protection it provides to the Hauraki Gulf. The island is only 90 km northeast of downtown Auckland and is easily accessible by plane or boat. Photo: Eugene Polkan 5 6 Rich history

Marine life Aotea is home to a community of around 900 The waters of the Marine Park are incredibly residents, and has been continuously inhabited rich in wildlife, with 22 species of marine for much of the past 1,000 years. Māori oral mammals. Look out for dolphins, whales and history speaks of early occupation, and of Ngāti seals, which are all regular visitors to the Wai and its chief Rehua settling on Aotea and island’s coast. claiming mana whenua over the land in the late 1700s. Being ancestral land, all of the island is Seabirds sacred land to Māori. Its forests, bays and rivers Seabirds are a special feature of the tell stories of journeys, battles, living off Marine Park. They feed in the rich waters the land and settlement. and find sanctuary on the park’s many pest-free islands. Aotea provides important nesting and You can experience the island’s culture and heritage by roosting sites, and provides for rare species like visiting some of the fascinating historic sites. the takoketai/. Archaeological sites in accessible coastal areas have been dated to the earliest period of Polynesian settlement. Coastal camping From the 1840s, the island’s natural resources attracted • Akapoua Bay Campsite is near the sheltered waters European settlement. A number of boom-and-bust of Port Fitzroy. industries exploited the island’s forests, minerals (copper, silver, gold) and migrating whales. • Awana Beach Campsite is near one of the island’s most popular places to surf. amway. Ph Mining Tr oto • Harataonga Campsite offers snorkelling, swimming TC : J Copper was discovered in the K im and the coastal walkway. P e t remote northern part of the r i • Campsite is a great picnic spot near e , island in 1841, and New N

a beautiful surf beach. Z

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• The Green Campsite at Whangaparapara Harbour is e

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a secluded spot accessed by boat or short walk. in 1842. Gold and silver were d • Whangapoua Campsite is on the edge of the estuary. discovered in the 1890s. A popular surf break is a 10-min walk at low tide. The massive stone walls of the Oreville stamping (ore crushing) battery – above and below Whangaparapara Road – are an impressive reminder of the mining period.

7 8 9 Kauri Dam. Photo: Andris Apse service building. and is now used as acommunity School was built in1884 of colonial times. Tryphena Port Fitzroy are reminders Harataonga, Tryphena and Puriri Bay. Homesteads at Cottage stillstands at Built inthe 1860s,Ollies Historic buildings fold-out map) are easily accessible (see map onpage 14and the on the west coast, the other onthe east. Bothsites worst shipping disaster. Two gravesites remain: one passengers and crew died–New Zealand’s third- smashed intorocks near Miners Head and 121 on the coast ofAotea. In1894, the SSWairarapa Since 1854,around 50shipwrecks have occurred Shipwrecks whaling ships were recorded around itscoasts. peaked in1839 when 150American and 50other and around New Zealand waters inthe 1790s, and can beseen atWhangaparapara. Whaling began in The remains ofNew Zealand’s last whaling station Whaling

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D C O more information. or call 0800 NZ KAURI for See www.kauridieback.co.nz to becleaned. leaving areas ofkauri forest need contact withsoil before and after any equipment that comes into off tree roots. Footwear, tyres and to defined tracks, and keeping protect kauri by always sticking from kauri dieback disease. Help However, kauri are under threat the forest is now regenerating. forest survived, and muchof A few areas oforiginal kauri still beseen. and cast iron chimney stack can Among the ruins asteam tractor the Coromandel and Northland. processed logs raftedby sea from at Whangaparapara, once sawmill (inoperation1905–16) The Kauri Timber Company Dam, leaving only the base. away the historic lower Kauri June 2014,ahugestormcarried Dam onthe Kaiaraara Track. In landmarks was the Lower Kauri the island’s best-known historic milling tramway routes. One of Park follow oldkauri logging and within the Aotea Conservation 1930s. Many walking tracks between the 1880sand early logged withincreasing intensity The kauri forests ofAotea were Kauri 10 Kauri bark. Photo: Sabine Bernert Living treasures

In the absence of many of the introduced Reptiles and amphibians pests and predators now present on mainland Aotea is home to 13 different species New Zealand, Aotea has become a lifeboat for of skinks and geckos, and many native animals and plants, including New Zealand’s only island-based population of Hochstetter’s frog. ch freshwater fish, bats, lizards, frogs and birds. Photo: Dick Veit The chevron skink is one of New Zealand’s Native and most endangered lizards. Found only here and on Te Hauturu-o-Toi/, it can endemic plant life grow to more than 30 cm long and is perfectly After a tumultuous history of land camouflaged to blend in with the leaf litter clearance and kauri logging, much of along the forested streams. Its Māori name, Aotea is now covered in native vegetation. niho taniwha, refers to the tooth-like chevron With the absence of many browsing markings along its back and means ‘teeth of animals, many plants and habitats on the taniwha’. the island have been able to flourish. Kānuka and mānuka dominate the landscape, although mature eilson eri N pōhutukawa, tairare, pūriri and kauri : K to o are beginning to re-emerge. h P Several rare plant species susceptible to browsing mammals have survived ka nu on the island, such as Kirk’s daisy, ā K Pimelea tomentosa and sand tussock. Three plant species are found only on the island: the Great Barrier Marine life tree daisy, prostrate kānuka, Blue maomao, snapper, piper, sea turtles, and a subspecies of hebe. sunfish, common and bottlenose dolphins e and orca. Also Bryde’s, southern right and Heb humpback whales.

If you discover a stranded whale or dolphin (dead or alive), report it to 0800 DOCHOT (0800 362 468) immediately. Bottlenose dolphins. Photo: John McGowan 11 12 tai/black p ke etr ko el a . P T h o t o :

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Birds Seabirds C

These include takoketai/ G

Many of the birds on Aotea r e

black petrels (see page 19), e

are now rare on the mainland. n They can be secretive and require Australasian gannets, e common diving petrels, patience to spot. Keep an eye out obin nd r for the ones below. Isla fluttering shearwaters, Cook’s rth No petrels, grey-faced petrels, little blue Pāteke/brown teal penguins and Buller’s shearwaters. Brown teals are among the rarest ducks in the world and The is also are considered ‘At Risk – Recovering’ due to ongoing sometimes spotted off the north of the island. predator control. Aotea is home to almost two-thirds of the world’s remaining population. āteke. kākā th Isl P Pho Nor and They are mainly active at to kā : S These large, brown, noisy kā a . b P night, but can commonly i h n parrots are often seen o e t o be seen foraging along B flying high above the :

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hit by cars on the road Recovering’ and are locally t at night. Please take care extinct from most parts when driving. of their former range on the mainland. Shorebirds and waders These include native and migrant species such as the Banded rail Caspian tern, wrybill, pied stilt, banded dotterel and Often mistaken for baby weka, banded rails bar-tailed godwit. are a common sight. They often run out on Most conspicuous in summer are the New Zealand the road, so take care when driving! dotterel and variable oystercatcher. These birds breed above the high-tide line, mostly on the white sandy beaches along the east coast of the island. Their nests are well camouflaged and easily trampled. Banded dotterel. Photo: James T Reardon Banded rail. Photo: Andris Apse 13 14 Outstanding views are in oversupply. Wild spaces One visitor once remarked, Far from traffic and city lights, Aotea is “There are just too many the ultimate place to get away from it all. The landscape is rugged and remote, and beautiful places!” is one of the ’s last great wilderness areas.

In the centre of the island, spectacular bluffs and ridges rise to the highest peak – Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) at 621 m. The clear, warm waters surrounding the island are perfect for swimming, diving and snorkelling, and some of the eastern beaches can whip up some of the best surf in the country. Take a gentle walk along one of the many lowland bush trails or hike through beautiful regenerating coastal forest. Form the only set of footprints on a magnificent white, sandy beach and relax in the warm, secluded hot pools reached from the Whangaparapara road. The wild landscapes of Aotea provide the perfect backdrop for an adventurous, active holiday, or a relaxing escape from city life.

Andris Apse View from Hirakimata (Mt Hobson).View from Photo: Aotea coastline. Photo: Eugene Polkan 15 16 240 Okiwi 242

Detailed map Port Fitzroy

C O of tracks on O P Rarohara Bay E R Windy S (Ungunu Bay) C A S Canyon T Great Barrier L The Pinnacle Akapoua E Lookout T R 290 Campsite A 465 C K K Coopers Castle C 495 RA T Island/Aotea RS E LM Car park PA K AIAR Kaiarara AAR F A Bay O TRA R CK E Walking tracks key S T R D 627 Kaiaraara K K

for following pages R a Aw

O a Hut ia K Mount Hobson na Bush's Beach F C r a H

A ra H T Picnic Area T R R

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Walking Track U 179 510 O Str O N

e S Suitable for people am Remains of Mt Heale 270 K Kauri dam C with low to moderate fitness A

Hut R and abilities. Walking shoes RK T Co FO ffi UTH ns SO ACK P or light tramping boots TR E C A E r IN e C L Kiwiriki ek M required. H A 425 R Bay T T R E E T 372 R Tramping Track A C K Suitable for people K I with good fitness. Moderate W F AOTEA CONSERVATION PARK I O R R I E K ST to high level backcountry I R T OA R D AD (remote areas). Skills and A O C R H T ORT K S CK N 280 RE TRA experience, including O INE F AML navigation and survival TR

F skills, required. O R E S Hot Springs W T ai R ra H hi O Route T A R W U D iver IT O K H S T EY Challenging 'S K S C G A I N TR R H R overnight tramping/hiking. A T KE O C ITO T SP K E KA 250 N Track unformed, may be I L M rough or steep. Suitable for A 309 R people with above-average T Derelict Whangaparapara stamping battery To

fitness, and high-level The Green Claris K

Campsite C backcountry skills and TE AHUMA A TA TR MIL R AC experience. LD L T K O Te Ahumata 240 Remains of 398 Kauri mill Whangaparapara Disused mine Remains of TE AHUMATA whaling station TRACK 321 Whangaparapara Mangati Harbour Legend Bay Copper Mine Bay S DOC Campsite u " French n  Aotea Track b Bay e Long Bay Rapid a DOC Hut Other tracks m " Bay C Council tracks r Mountain bikes e Okupu  (caution) e  Road k Ot er tracks  Parking area Unsealed road Council tracks ´ Kauri dieback  Picnic site Road hygiene station Okupu Unsealed road Bay DOC Public 0 0.5 1 Km  Lookout )" Blind 17  Kauri dieCboancskervation Land 18 hygiene station Bay Allom DOC Public 0 0.5 1 Km Bay Conservation Land Aotea Track

multi-day walk Andris Apse

The 25 km Aotea Track 3-day circuit Photo: Climbing to Mt Heale. loops the central mountainous area and is a manageable journey for reasonably fit beginner or experienced trampers.

The Aotea Track travels through mountainous terrain – take suitable clothing. Streams and rivers rise quickly. Be prepared to turn back. The track is a network of easy walking, steep climbs, stairways, and swing bridges. You travel over a range of spectacular landscapes; streams Suggested route Kaiaraara Hut Day 1: Hot Springs to that show off a constant spectacle of beautiful Mt Heale Hut native bush, tranquil wetlands, and the Mt Heale Time: 4 hr surviving forests of kauri, rimu and kahikatea Hut with their special plants and wildlife. Enjoy too Day 2: Mt Heale Hut to the superb views from much of the track as you Kaiaraara Hut follow the central ridge of the island. You’ll Time: 4 hr also be able to explore the rich history of Great Day 3: Kaiaraara Hut to Barrier with sites such as the remnants of kauri Whangaparapara Rd Hot Springs driving dams, a tramline and a wooden horse. Time: 5 hr Whangaparapara Rd Two well-positioned huts allow for manageable walks of 3 to 4 hr over the 3-day walk. Mt Heale Hut provides spectacular views over the Hauraki Gulf and Te Hauturu-o-Toi/Little Barrier Island and sits on the central ridge half an hour below Hirakimata (Mt Hobson), the island’s highest point. This 20-bed hut has excellent sleeping and gas cooking facilities. Kaiaraara Hut is near sea level on the western side of the island. This is a 28-bed hut and is serviced by a wood burner and gas facilities.

Andris Apse It is 3 km from a general store, burger bar, Boat Club and Information Centre at Port Fitzroy.

Photo: More detailed information, including maps, can be found in the Aotea Track – A World of its Own brochure. Available in print or online at: www.doc.govt.nz Kaitoke wetland. 19 20 Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) summit tracks

To stand at the top of Hirakimata (Mt Hobson), Mt Hobson summit via Hot Springs with a 360-degree panorama, is what many and Peach Tree Tracks trampers set as their primary goal once they’ve 5 hr one way, 7.9 km landed on the island. Starting from Whangaparapara Road, the journey to the top begins flat and easy – very friendly for There are three routes to get to the summit, pushchairs. The path follows an ancient shoreline described in detail on the following three pages. traversing the Kaitoke wetlands and regenerating Nearing the summit, either from the northeast, kānuka forest. You may hear the call of a fernbird or the west or the south, the tracks lead into mature spotless crake. Orchids and sun dews flower close forest where logging was too difficult and fires on to the track. Forty-five minutes later at the hot pools, the lower slopes did not reach. Remnants of an dammed at a fork in Kaitoke Creek and surrounded ancient and precious conifer forest – rimu, Kirk’s by the delicate umbrella fern, the track changes. After pine, pink pine and kauri – can be seen here. a brief, steep climb and descent to join Tramline Track, with reminders of loggers’ toil and journeys of Please keep to the tracks to avoid damaging 80 years ago, Peach Tree Track soon appears on the rare native plants and disturbing takoketai/ left and the climb begins through regenerating forest. black petrels. Forty-five minutes from the summit, the track passes Mt Heale Hut. Wake up to wide views from the north west through to the south.

Enjoy the hot pools but take care – they might be too hot in places. Do not put your head under the water.

Keep an eye out for takoketai/black petrels Once widespread on the North Island, oto: Ph Terr y C breeding colonies of these large, G re e burrow-nesting seabirds are n e now confined to Aotea and

Andris Apse Te Hauturu-o-Toi/ Little Barrier Island. The main

Photo: colony breeds here on the slopes of Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) between October and May each year. Mature birds spend months at sea flying as far as South America and only return to the island to breed. Watch out for them on the road at night. Mt Hobson summit. 21 22 23 “I saw what had happened tothe Kaiaraara stream. The NewZealandObserver, 18July 1931. John Mowbray, Mt Hobson’s Scroll ofFame,

The Twin slip swing bridge. The defacement ofthat valley was complete.” The banks ofthe stream had beentornand mutilated. Track junction, crossing the stream inseveral places using a Its bedwas four orfive times its former width… From the dam, the track climbs steeply via wooden steps Dam. The track below this dam winds through semi-mature From Forest Road, the track rises steadily toCooper’s Castle Hut –aspaghetti junction ofthe island’s track system. Like Kaiaraara Track begins at Forest Road near the Kaiaraara experience for walkers –awidearray offlorafrom tiny island, itsbays and beaches, and neighbouring islands. historic sitesand, towards the summit, panoramas ofthe plants and ground cover tolarge trees inestablished forest, smaller dams higher up. Logs estimated tocontain seven sensitive ecosystems. The Lower Kauri Dam (1 series ofswing and wooden bridges.Ashort distance from million feet oftimber were slid intothe dams. Once loaded, many ofthe island’s tracks, Kaiaraara offers astriking from Kaiaraara Hut)was built inthe 1920s, along withsix forest withgoodexamples oftōwai and large kohekohe. the lower dam, propelling the logs intoKaiaraara Bay. the dams were tripped one afterthe other so afullblast hit that protect takoketai/black petrel nesting grounds and this junction is asidetrack tothe remnants ofLower Kauri Photo: Andris Apse Mt Hobson summit via Kaiaraara Track 3 hr – .5 hr one way, 5 . 6 km hr min 30 min

dews like ithere as well. Barrier tree daisy and tiny sun kākā. The beautiful endemic Great and is frequented by kākāriki and introduced , black petrel and recently re- the favoured choice ofthe tomtit, site ofseveral rare species. Itis Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) is the side ontheir way tothe sea. them plummeting down the other and over the saddle, before sending logs from the eastern slopes up a sturdy H-frame used for winching ridge stillstands the ‘wooden horse’, among regenerating forest. Onthe plant prostrate kānuka can beseen Healthy examples ofthe endemic system ofstepsand stairways. steep inclines via animpressive steeply tothe summit, traversing every direction before climbing constantly changing vistas in The track follows the ridgeoffering and Medlands beaches tothe east. estuary tothe north, and Kaitoke Basin and and There are splendid views ofOkiwi Canyon (10minutesfrom the road). the sheer rock faces ofWindy and climbs numerous stepsthrough Whangapoua HillonAotea Road The track begins atthe topof of the three paths tothe summit. This is the shortest and easiest 3 hr one way, 3 and Palmer’s Track via Windy Canyon Mt Hobson summit .3 km 24 Windy canyon. Photo: Andris Apse 25 Photo: Eugene Polkan also anoutlet for kauri logs. island’s western bays, Whangaparapara was stack and stone walls remain. Like many ofthe and the Coromandel. Asteam engine, chimney processed logs from as faraway as Northland remains ofawhaling stationand asawmill that early industries. Within itsharbour are the Whangaparapara was the setting for several area tracks Whangaparapara onto Forest Road. Track comes off South Tramline track and links operator for the Kauri Timber Company, Withey’s Named afterBillWithey, who was asteam hauler several bridgesbefore joining back toForest Road. Whangaparapara end ofthe track progresses over traverses most ofthe island atitswidestpoint.The 8 km from Whangaparapara toAotea Road, The Tramline Track system, which extends about 1 hr30 min–2one way Withey’s Track 6 hr one way Tramline Track beginning atThe Green campsite. the track can bewalked around the shoreline, a historic steam traction engine. At low tide, of the Kauri Timber Company sawmill and two steepspurs and descending tothe site Green campsite (15minutes), before crossing Track follows the edgeof mangroves toThe travels through rejuvenating bush. Old Mill begins close toWhangaparapara Road and The Old Milltrack is a2 designated track. views inevery direction. Please stay onthe numerous orchid species. There are panoramic wind-shorn, bonsai-like native plants and 30 minutes) leads tothe summit covered with to ajunction, where abranch track (a further either end a30minutegradual climb leads Whangaparapara and Blind Bay roads. From This track follows anoldmining road between 1 hr30 minreturn Old MillTrack 1 hr one way Te Ahumata Track hr return trip, and 26 Whangaparapara harbour. Photo: D Walker 27 Warren’s Track. Photo: Terryy Smith a variety ofshorter walks and vantage points. island’s track system, atthe same time offering Fitzroy is the starting pointfor much of the with itsmany bays and forested slopes. Port (Selwyn Island), complementing the main island entrances. At itsmouth sitsMotu Kaikoura of New Zealand’s most beautiful harbour to Port Fitzroy, many by boat, toadmire one During the summer months, thousands come area tracks Port Fitzroy the road. the and exotic forest, this track is analternative towalking to the Fitzroy store. Aneasy grade through indigenous kauri plantation before joining BridleTrack, which leads deep pools goodfor swimming. Itcontinues onthrough gently graded climb toawaterfall, the stream offering One kilometre from Port Fitzroy, Warren’s Track is a with impressive views over the harbour. and kohekohe. leads Asteepside-track toalookout rock it follows astream through remnant gully forest ofpūriri Old Lady Track links the harbour toPort Fitzroy hillas 1 hr one way Warren’s and BridleTracks 1 hrone way Old Lady Track

The riverrisesquicklyafterheavy rain. array ofbeautiful bush and mountain views. both trampers and mountain bikers, providing awide with forestry tracks, Forest Road is apopular trek for Thirteen kilometres inlength and once criss-crossed end, walk 500 mupstream and follow the orange markers. examples oftutu.Note: firststream crossing from Kaiaraara ridge. It travels through regenerating forest withexcellent climbs steadily toaswing bridgeonthe way tothe central follows anoldbridletrack. Itcrosses the stream twice, then Beginning to, the Kaiaraara Hutwithout having togoMaungapiko. Forest Road, enabling amuchshorter round trip from, and back This trackKiwiriki branches off Track tojoindirectly with floor and sign-postedjunction (1 ridge before veering rightand dropping steeply tothe valley the coast. The track climbs steadily and follows the dividing kohekohe and concentrations ofkōwhai and pōhutukawa on travelling through lowland forest remnants ofpūriri, nīkau, Track (30 minutes), then descends and crosses Coffin’s Creek, the same original riding track toajunction withLine W This track continues onfrom Bush’s Beach Track. Itfollows was built toprotect kauri from kauri dieback disease. track from Port Fitzroy tothe Wairahi Valley. The boardwalk Beginning atKaiaraara Hut,this track is part ofthe oldriding central ridgetomeet Forest Rd atMaungapiko (1 crosses Stream Kiwiriki and climbs through the valley and 15 minutewalk tothe head Bay. ofKiwiriki The main track Be careful when crossing creek in flood. 5 hr one way Forest Road 3 hr one way 1 hr one way Line WTrack 4 hr one way TrackKiwiriki 35 minone way Bush’s Beach Track South Fork Track 1 km south ofKaiaraara Hut,South Fork Track hr 30 min), leading toa hr 30 min). 28 Okiwi/Harataonga area tracks

The Harataonga Coastal Walkway, which Tramline Track links with Okiwi Basin and Harataonga 6 hr one way campsite, is a popular walk on this eastern The Tramline Track receives minimal upkeep coast. Okiwi claims a second campground – for fit trampers only. From its northeastern on the shores of Whangapoua estuary and beginning on Aotea Road, it follows the old the beach of the same name is one of the tramline used by the Kauri Timber Company most beautiful in New Zealand. during the 1920s and 1930s. It is sometimes very steep and was a remarkable engineering feat of its time. It descends abruptly to Awana Harataonga Coastal Walkway Stream and waterfall before climbing steeply 4–5 hr one way to a plateau and then dropping to Kaitoke This easy walk does not have the steep grades of Stream. The track crosses several creeks, many of the island’s other tracks. It winds through crossing Forest Road and linking with the regenerating forest and was once the road linking Whangaparapara tramline extension. the island’s south and north. From Harataonga campsite, the track heads west across a stream Burrill Route before following a coastline of magnificent views. 8–9 hr return The track ends at Aotea Road at the south end of Formed in the early 1970s as mining access Okiwi Basin. for copper, Burrill Route begins at Mabey’s Road. This route is named after the late Max Harataonga Loop Track Burrill, who farmed some of the northern 30 min one way parts of Aotea. It climbs steeply through the This track branches to the right, close to the regenerating forest of Te Paparahi to the Harataonga end of the Coastal Walkway. The track central ridge and follows through to Tataweka loops back to the campsite passing close to a pā (526 m). The track is not regularly managed, is site, sea and coastal views. indistinct in some places and is for fit trampers only. No water is available on this route. Cooper’s Castle Track 2.5–3 hr one way This track begins at the top of Okiwi/Port Fitzroy Te Paparahi Te Paparahi is of significant importance to Ngāti Rehua as Hill on Aotea Road, and ascends the southern ridge it holds taonga and spiritual values of people, flora, fauna, under a forest canopy with views both sides of the land and water. It was also the last stronghold for kōkako island. At a sign-posted junction to Cooper’s Castle on the island after the population plummeted to near Track (2 hr), a 5 minute detour leads to Cooper’s extinction from predation and habitat loss. Castle lookout, where a large volcanic-rock bluff The last two kōkako were transferred to gives extensive views of Okiwi Basin and the Te Hauturu-o-Toi/Little Barrier Island in Whangapoua estuary. The main track descends 1994 with the hope that their offspring will to Kaiaraara Track, and the remnants of the lower be brought back to Aotea once predators Kauri Dam. such as cats and rats are controlled. 29 30 Help look after the Hauraki Gulf

Why aren’t there control programmes are more birds? also underway on key Animal and plant pests sites. Argentine ants and destroy our wildlife treasures. rainbow skinks are recent Although Aotea has fewer arrivals, and are the focus introduced predators than of an intensive programme the mainland, it has a by DOC and Auckland number of pests that affect Council to manage their habitat. The island is now invasion and hopefully home to large numbers eradicate them. of ship rats and feral cats, amongst other pests such as How you can help mice and pigs. Many species You can help protect this such as whiteheads, bellbirds special place. Aotea doesn’t and kōkako have been lost have Norway rats, possums, from the island, and others stoats and other mustelids, such as kākāriki and tomtits or hedgehogs. Please check are just hanging on. all your gear (boats, cars, kayaks, tents, cases and Hope for the future backpacks) for stowaways Locals, community groups before you head to the island. and DOC are working Clean dirty gear, especially hard to reduce the effects footwear, for soil and seeds – of these predators. Good weeds are a serious problem. results are already being It is a good idea to pack food seen and the wildlife is in sealed containers as open starting to return to these bags provide easy access protected areas. Weed for pests.

Unsupervised dogs are also a risk to wildlife on the island, so please keep any dogs under control.

31 Wildlife

Hochstetter's frog. Photo: Sabine Bernert

Moho pererū/ Kākāriki Mātātā/fernbird banded rail Green gecko. Photo: Sabine Bernert Photo: Sabine Bernert Photo: Craig McKenzie Photo: Andris Apse

Kōtare/kingfisher Tōrea pango/ Photo: Andrew Miromiro/tomtit variable oystercatcher Kererū/ Walmsley Photo: Sabine Bernert Photo: Shellie Evans Photo: Sabine Bernert

Pītoitoi/tomtit Tūī Tūturiwhatu/ Pihipihi/waxeye Photo: Vincent Photo: Dean Wright Photo: Sam O’Leary Zintzen photonewzealand Photo: Shellie Evans

Kōriroro/ Matuku-moana New Zealand fur seal Photo: Andrew Kororā/little blue penguin Photo: Sabine Bernert Photo: Sabine Bernert Walmsley Photo: Shellie Evans Needles Point

Great Barrier Island / Aotea Aiguilles Island

S.S. Wairarapa

Tataweka 526m Miners Head

Te Paparahi

Ahuriri Point

Mo tair Waikaro Point ehe Rd Katherine Bay Motairehe S.S. Wairarapa d graves a R Maunganui Point S.S. Wairarapa Kaw graves Whangapoua Kawa Beach Rakitu Island Whangapoua Estuary (Arid Island)

K Whangapoua Campsite ara ka B ay R d d tea R Port Abercrombie Old Lady Ao Track Okiwi

Harataonga Warrens Windy Beach Canyon A Motu Kaikoura Akapoua Campsite Track o te Harataonga a (Selwyn Island) R Campsite Whakatautuna y d o Point zr Harataonga it Kaiaraara Hut F Rd t Hirakimata r o (Mt Hobson) 621m P K Mt Heale iw i Mt Heale Hut 510m riki B ay Aotea Stony Beach Conservation Awana Campsite Park 280m Maungapiko Kaitoke Forest Hot Springs Broken Islands Road Track (Pig Islands) Whangaparapara Wh 309m angapa rapara The Green Road d W Campsite R Te Ahumata a y lt a e r Track B B Whangaparapara d la n i c l k B w e ll a R ar d ap Okupu ar ap ur ng bo Medlands Beach ha ar W H Blind Bay Medlands Campsite

Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana Legend S.S. Tryphena Wiltshire " DOC Campsite Harbour Rd Tryphena Aotea Track d S R ay " DOC Hut h B o e ali Other tracks ay a os l B R Mountain bikes er B Shag Point on Tryphena a  o y (caution) Council tracks Sch Harbour R d Mulberry  Parking area Road Grove Unsealed road  Picnic site Ruahine (! Kauri dieback 402m  Lookout hygiene station DOC Public 0 1 Km  Historic site )" ´  Conservation Land Cape Barrier