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Cape Town & the Garden Route 9

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Cape Town & the

Around p187 #_ Garden Route p227 Cape Town p49

Simon Richmond, James Bainbridge, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Cape Town CAPE TOWN . . . . . 49 Entertainment ...... 168 & the Garden Route. . . . 4 Neighbourhoods at Shopping ...... 172 Cape Town & the a Glance...... 50 Garden Route Map...... 6 AROUND Cape Town & the National Park ...... 54 Garden Route’s Top 15. . . . 8 CAPE TOWN ...... 187 Sights...... 68 Need to Know...... 16 Road Trip > Activities...... 115 Driving Route 62 ...... 190 What’s New...... 18 Tours...... 123 Winelands ...... 194 If You Like ...... 19 Festivals & Events . . . . . 125 Stellenbosch...... 194 Month by Month. . . . . 22 Sleeping...... 127 Franschhoek...... 202 Itineraries ...... 25 Eating ...... 138 Paarl...... 207 Getting Around...... 30 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 156 Eat Like a Local . . . . . 32 Wine & Wineries. . . . . 36 Activities...... 42 Regions at a Glance. . . . 45 LARANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK © JAMES STRACHAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

KIRSTENBOSCH NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDEN P95 FRANK SLACK/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR RF ©

DECORATIVE MASKS, GREENMARKET SQ P69 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Tulbagh ...... 211 GARDEN ROUTE. . . 227 Cape Town Today . . . . 254 Robertson...... 213 Surfing Along the History...... 256 The Overberg ...... 214 Garden Route...... 230 People & Culture . . . . 266 The Elgin Valley ...... 215 ...... 232 ...... 216 George...... 235 Architecture ...... 271 Gansbaai...... 220 Wilderness...... 237 The Arts...... 273 Buffalo Bay...... 238 Stanford...... 221 The Natural West Coast ...... 223 ...... 239 Environment...... 277 Darling...... 223 ...... 246 Langebaan...... 224 Nature’s Valley...... 250 Paternoster...... 225

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z...... 280 Transport...... 285 Language ...... 289 Index...... 295

SPECIAL FEATURES Getting Around...... 30 Table Mountain National Park...... 54 Driving Route 62. . . . 190 Surfing Along the Garden Route...... 230

HERMANUS P216 People & Culture. . . . 266 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25

Itineraries

Northern Cape

Eastern Cape Western

Cape

É Oudsthoorn

ëT É

R62 •#

É CAPE É

TOWN É ëT Plettenberg WilderÉ ness #_ É

É •# Bay É •# É É •# É •# É •# Knysna False Elgin Bay Mossel Bay

I N D I A N O C E A N

7 DAYS Garden Route Road Trip

The verdant Garden Route endures as one of ’s top draws for visitors. Ideally you would spend a week travelling to and exploring the region, but you still get a taste of its pleasures in five days, allowing a couple of days in Cape Town at either end. From Cape Town, head east along the , stopping for padkos (road snacks) at an El- gin farm stall. Spend a night in Mossel Bay where you can surf, skydive, hike, dive with sharks or just explore the museum. Resist the temptation to drive right by Wilderness: its national park deserves at least one afternoon and accommodation options around town are excellent. Stop in Knysna to hike the forests, take a boat cruise on the lagoon and join a tour of the hilltop township. If you’re seeking some beach time, continue to pretty Plettenberg Bay, with its seafront accommodation and smattering of wineries specialising in bubbly. On the return to Cape Town consider driving through and taking Route 62 – the arid, winding drive makes for a delightful alternative to the N2. 26

City Bowl & Bo-Kaap •# V&A Waterfront •# Table R •# Woodstock Mountain É

Kirstenbosch National •#

É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Botanical Garden É •# Constantia •#

É

AT L A N T I C Chapman’s •#

O C E A N Peak Drive É •# •# ITINERARIES É

Simon’s Town False •# •# Bay É Boulders

É

Cape of Good Hope÷# Nature Reserve

Cape of Good Hope •#

4 DAYS Cape Town: Top to Bottom

What could be better than starting your visit to Cape Town with breakfast atop Ta- ble Mountain? If the tough climb up is not your thing, ride the cableway. And if the weather’s not playing ball, then take in splendid city views from . Spend the rest of the day exploring the , including the lush Company’s Garden and the Bo-Kaap district with its colourfully painted houses. Sink sundowners at a rooftop bar, such as The Vue, then enjoy a gourmet meal at the Shortmarket Club or Chef’s Ware- house & Canteen. On day two learn about the city’s troubled past at the Museum. Watch the noon key ceremony at the 350-year-old . Head to Woodstock for lunch at Kitchen followed by contemporary art browsing at galleries such as Stevenson and Goodman Gallery Cape. There’s also abundant street art around the Woodstock Exchange. Art lovers should have the new Zeitz MOCAA Museum at the V&A Water- front high on their list of priorities; hang out in this lively area for a sunset cruise fol- lowed by dinner at Harbour House. Begin day three exploring the beautiful Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Book well ahead for lunch at Foxcroft or La Colombe then spend a blissful afternoon sampling your way through Constantia’s wineries. Motor over Constantia Nek to Hout Bay. Enjoy the sea views, beer in hand, from the beachside pub Dunes. The peninsula’s deep south beckons on day four – reach it by driving along spec- tacular Chapman’s Peak Drive and the surfing hot spot of Kommetjie. Stand at the southwestern tip of Africa within the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve section of Table Mountain National Park. Enjoy a picnic lunch here then head to Boulders, home to a thriving colony of African penguins. The historic naval base of Simon’s Town is just up the road while further around is the charming fishing vil- lage of Kalk Bay, where you can enjoy fresh seafood at many excellent restaurants such as Olympia Café. 27

Spice Route •# É

É Villiera

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN AT L A N T I C Boschendal

O C E A N •#

É Delaire Graff É É

Estate •# Franschhoek

É •# CAPE TOWN #_ É •# Stellenbosch •# •# Van Ryn Brandy Cellar

É Spier

•#

Meerlust Estate ITINERARIES É

False Bay

3 DAYS The Essential Winelands

The Winelands make it onto the bucket list of almost every visitor to South Africa. Even nondrinkers are soon entranced by the elegant Cape Dutch mansions, fine food and bluish-grey mountain backdrop. This itinerary could easily be split into day trips. Stick to a maximum of four wineries per day. Leaving Cape Town via the , kick off your day with a glass of bubbly at Villiera and consider sticking around for a two-hour wildlife drive to see giraffes and zebras. From here it’s a 20-minute drive to Spice Route, where you can easily spend half a day indulging in all the foodie pursuits. Enjoy lunch with a view then take Rte 45 towards Franschhoek, stopping to visit the museums – and tasting room – at Solms-Delta. Overnight in a Franschhoek guesthouse and be sure to book ahead for dinner in one of the town’s renowned restaurants. Wake up and take a stroll around town, stopping to graze in cafes and patisseries as you go. Mix things up with lunch at a local brewery before heading to one of the region’s most beloved estates, Boschendal, with its stately buildings, huge tree, vineyard tours and mountain biking trails. Route 310 towards Stellenbosch is a winding, scenic road and there’s no better spot to enjoy the views than at Delaire Graff Estate. Spend the night in one of Stellenbosch’s historic hotels or long-standing hostels. On day three, spend the morning exploring the town centre – don’t miss the excellent Village Museum and the pretty botanical garden, a nice spot for midmorning coffee and cake. Head out of town on Rte 310 and try a brandy tasting at Van Ryn Brandy Cel- lar, whose brandies are among the most awarded in the world. Mere moments along the same road you will reach Spier. It is unashamedly commercial, but few leave disappoint- ed by the restaurants, wine tasting, family-friendly activities and vast grounds. Continue south, but before you join the N2 back to Cape Town, make time for one final stop at Meerlust Estate where there is no restaurant, no kids’ corner, pairing experience or on-site cheesemaker. Here it’s all about the wine, particularly its signature red blend. 28 Cape Town & the Garden Route: Off the Beaten Track

WELLINGTON

Spend a few days hiking between the •#Bitterfontein wineries that surround this quiet and PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN pretty town. Also take the chance to drive along the Bainskloof Pass, one Vanrhyns Nieuwoudtville Pass c •# of the country's most spectacular ëT mountain roads. (p212) Vanrhynsdorp R27 •# •#Vredendal Strandfontein •# Rooiduine Point

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK !KHWA TTU Lamberts Pakhuis

Pc ass The San are the original people of the Bay •# •# – learn about them at Clanwilliam Elands this education and culture centre, •# ÷# #÷ Bay where you can take guided walks and Cederberg WA nature drives. (p225) Piekenierskloof •# Citrusdal

St Helena Pass c Bay Cape AÆ7 Columbine Vredenburg•# •#Piketberg ëT Beaverlac NR INTAKA ISLAND R45 Moorreesburg #÷ West #÷ •# R This 16-hectare wetland reserve in the Coast NP Groot Winterhoek c Gydo T Tulbagh •# Pass ëR46 middle of the Century City Darling •#Ceres Yzerfontein•# •# •#Malmesbury development is home to over 200 •# !KHWA TTU Bainskloof species of indigenous plants and 120 ëT Pass Bok R27 c Worcester bird species. (p113) Point •# •# ëTR60 Bok Bay WELLINGTON INTAKA ISLAND Franschhoek •# Stellenbosch •# CAPE TOWN #_ •# The Overberg •# •# •# #÷Jonkershoek NR OUDEKRAAL •# ATLANTIC LYNEDOCH OCEAN SILVERMINE •# Greyton ECO VILLAGE NATURE RESERVE #÷ Cape #÷ Kogelberg NR •# Fernkloof NR OUDEKRAAL Table Point #÷ Mountain NP Kleinmond •# Walker Stanford A postcard-perfect view of Lion's Bay Head and the Twelve Apostles is Danger Point framed from this secluded beach, #÷ protected by giant boulders, off the Quoin road between and Hout Point Bay. (p135)

SILVERMINE NATURE RESERVE LYNEDOCH ECOVILLAGE Threaded through with hiking and Near Stellenbosch, drop by this tiny mountain biking trails, this southern village that challenges the notion that section of Table Mountain National sustainable development and Park harbours a reservoir with ecological building is too expensive. tannin-stained waters, around which There's a cafe and simple is a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk. accommodation here too. (p194) (p103) 29 # 0 100 km e0 50 miles

LEGEND •#Carnarvon NP National Park NR NaAÆture Reserve MR Mar1i2ne Reserve WA Wilderness Area PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Williston •# Victoria •# West

MCGREGOR 1 KNYSNA'S

Kick back in this peaceful town, which RASTAFARIANSëTR381 Three is the base for one end of the 14km •# •#Fraserburg Sisters hike along the Boesmanskloof Trail, a Judah Square is a Rastafari OFF THE BEATEN TRACK gorgeous route leading to the twee community situated in a small valley in Khayalethu South, a •#suburbNelsp oofo rt Tankwa village of Greyton. (p215) NP Knysna.Karoo To NP understand more about #÷ this groups÷# culture,Beaufo rtaket a tour here •# Sutherland •# with Brother WZebulon.est (p242) T he Karoo

•#Merweville AÆ12 AÆ9 •#Kruidfontein Prince •#Rietbron Albert Road•# AÆ Prince Matjiesfontein 1 •# Albert •# Laingsburg •# Groot Swartberg Willowmore Klein Pass Klaarstroom •#Touwsrivier Swartberg Swartberg •# •# #÷ ÷# c Meiringspoort Anysberg NR c Pass #÷ •# •# •# Breede River Valley •# Uniondale ëTR318 Oudtshoorn •# Garden Robertson AÆ12 Prince Alfred's Route NP c Cogmanskloof ëTR62 (Tsitsikamma •# Pass AÆ9 Pass Garden Route NP c Section) ëTR62 (Knysna Lakes Section) #÷ •##÷Vrolijkheid NR c Garcia's George Pass •# ÷# #÷ Plettenberg MCGREGOR Garden Route NP •# #•Bay •# (Wilderness Section) ÷# AÆ2 Riversdale •#Mossel Bay KNYSNA ëT319 AÆ2 Cape St ROBBERG Stillbaai Blaize •# •# NATURE & #÷ •#St Sebastian Bredasdorp Bay MARINE •# DE HOOP Cape INDIAN Infanta OCEAN RESERVE Agulhas NP NATURE #÷ Struis RESERVE #õ Bay Cape Agulhas

DE HOOP NATURE ROBBERG NATURE & RESERVE MARINE RESERVE Covering areas of both sea and Jutting 4km into the ocean, this fynbos-blanketed land, you'll find this rugged peninsula makes for reserve is both a breeding ground for spectacular and physically southern right whales as well as a challenging hiking. Alternatively, take haven for endangered Cape mountain a boat trip out to view the local colony zebras and bonteboks. (p224) of Cape fur seals. (p249) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 293

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made Many thanks to the travellers who used the last this trip an enlightenment, especially Doné, Renée, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Esti, Leigh and all the people I met on the road. At advice and interesting anecdotes: Lonely Planet, I’m grateful to Matt for his trust, and Caren Bender, Dominique Barnett, Elizabeth Heddes, to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros bisou to Emily Apple, Jonathan Jones, Lauren Smith, Matt Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was Roughley, Mike Saunders, Samantha Carter, Tessa essential. Söbbeke Lucy Corne Huge thanks to the team in Kimberley – Dianna, WRITER THANKS Romano, Kim, Joy and Tebogo – and to Fayroush, Simon Richmond Christa, Brian and Nadia at SAN Parks. Baie dankie Many thanks for the help, friendship and advice to Ailsa Tudhope for making me fall in love with from the following: fellow authors James and Lucy, Prince Albert all over again and to Johan, Debbie, Heather Mason, Bheki Dube, Gerald Garner, Mike Martiens and Cathy for making my life easier Luptak, Sheryl Ozinsky, Nicole Biondi, Iain Harris, Lee on the road. Big love to Shawn, who didn’t help Harris, Brent Meersman and Amber April. because he was busy with his own chapter, and a huge high five to Kai, who makes a pretty awe- James Bainbridge some travel buddy and helps me to see everything Thanks in 11 languages to my fellow writers Simon, through the eyes of a four-year-old. Lucy, Shawn and Ashley for beers and banter in the Southern Suburbs during this update; to the rest of the author team for your contributions; to everyone ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS who helped me on the road in Mpumalanga and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Cape Town; and to Leigh-Robin, Oliver and Thomas BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the for putting up with my long hours typing in the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and garden shed. Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Greater double-collared sunbird on pincushion protea plant, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Danita Delimont Stock, AWL © 294

Simon Richmond and Lucy Assisting Editors Michelle THIS BOOK Corne. This guidebook was Bennett, Jacqueline Danam, This 9th edition of Lonely produced by the following: Samantha Forge, Jennifer Hat- Planet’s Cape Town & the Destination Editor tam, Alexander , Anne Garden Route guidebook was Matt Phillips Mulvaney, Gabrielle Stefanos

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND curated by Simon Richmond, Senior Product Editor Cartographer James Leversha and was researched and Elizabeth Jones Cover Researcher written by Simon Richmond, Product Editor Jessica Ryan, Naomi Parker James Bainbridge, Jean- Kate Mathews Thanks to Heather Champion, Bernard Carillet and Lucy Gwen Cotter, Corey Hutchison, Corne. The previous two Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt Sandie Kestell, Chris Lee Ack, editions were also written by Angela Tinson, Sam Wheeler Book Designer Lauren Egan ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 295

Index

!Khwa ttu 225 Beach 105-7 cable cars 116 tours 123-5 Noetzie 241 Calitzdorp 193 travel seasons 49 Noordhoek Beach 109 campervans 287 travel to/from 184 A abseiling 116 Sandy Bay 94 Camps Bay 93, 94, 5 travel within 184-6 accessible travel 280 beer 24, 35, see also canoeing, see kayaking & 72 breweries canoeing accommodation 280, 282, Cape Town International see also individual Belvidere 241 canyoning, see kloofing Airport 184, 285 locations bicycle travel, see cycling Cape Camino 122 Cape Town Minstrel Carnival activities 21, 42-4, see also biltong 35, 34 Cape Columbine 22, 125, 266, 274 individual activities, bird sanctuaries Lighthouse 225 83 individual locations Birds of Eden 247 & Northern Cape Wheel 83, 85 267, 289-90 Boulders Penguin Colony Suburbs 51 car travel 30-1, 184, 286-7 Afrikaners 266, 267 108-9 accommodation 137-8 car guards 288 air travel 31, 285, 286 World of Birds 93 drinking & nightlife 167-8 car hire 30, 185-6 animals 278 birdwatching 42, 125 entertainment 172 driving licences 286-7 259 boat tours food 155-6 fuel 287 aquariums 82 Cape Town 115, 121 shopping 183 insurance 287 archaeological sites 224 Hermanus 217 sights 113-115 parking 127, 186, 288 archaeological tours 233 Mossel Bay 233 Cape Flats townships road conditions 287 architecture 271-2 Plettenberg Bay 248 113-15 road rules 31, 287-8 area codes 17, 283 Boer War 258 Cape of Good Hope 11, safety 287 107-8, arts 273-6 boerewors 35 11 speed limits 288 Atlas Trading Company Boers 258, 267 110 casinos 172 Cape St Blaize Lighthouse 65, 65 Bo-Kaap 10, 65, , , Castle of Good Hope 10 65 233 see also City Bowl, 58-9, 58 Foreshore, Bo-Kaap & Cape Town 45, 49-186, 28-9, cathedrals, see churches B 50, 52-3 & cathedrals Babylonstoren 210 books 254, 261, 263, 264, accommodation 49, 27-38 caves Bainskloof Pass 212 270, 275, 277 activities 115-23 Cango Caves 193 Baker, Sir Herbert 272 brandy 40 children, travel with Elephant’s Eye 102 ballooning 209 118, 280 breweries Klipgat Caves 221 Banting 33 climate 49 Birkenhead Brewery 222 Pinnacle Point Caves Barrydale 191 Darling Brewery 223 drinking & nightlife 233 156-68 bathrooms 283 Mitchell’s Brewery 241 cell phones 16, 283 entertainment 168-72 beaches 19 Newlands Brewery 102 Chapman’s Peak Drive festivals & events 125-7 113 Tuk Tuk Microbrewery 119, 30 Buffels Bay 111 206 food 49, 138-56 children, travel with 37, Camps Bay Beach 93 Buffalo Bay 231, 238-9 gay travellers 157 118, 280 Clifton 3rd Beach 93 bungee jumping highlights 52-3 Christianity 269 Clifton 4th Beach 93 Nature’s Valley 251 internet access 184 churches & cathedrals 93 Plettenberg Bay 248 internet resources 171 Evangelical Lutheran Llandudno Beach 94 bus travel 31, 184, 185, itineraries 26, 26 Church 75 Long Beach 111 286, 288 lesbian travellers 157 Groote Kerk 72 business hours 17, 281 markets 177 St George’s shopping 172-83 Cathedral 88 Map Pages 000 sights 58-115 cinema 170-1, 254, 275-6 Photo Pages 000 C cabaret 223-4 tourist information 184 296 City Bowl, Foreshore, distilleries 212 56 Good Food & Wine Wine on the River Bo-Kaap & De Water- District Six, see East City, Show 23 Festival 214 kant 50 70-1, 74-5 District Six, Woodstock Adderley St Christmas films 254, 269, 275-6 accommodation 127-9 & Observatory Lights 24, 127 fishing 43 drinking & nightlife 156, 11, Cape Town Carnival food 32-5, see also 158-60 62-3, 11, 62 22, 126 individual locations

INDEX INDEX entertainment 168-9 diving & snorkelling 43, African cuisine 35 food 138-43 116, 118, 119, 122, 22, 126 Afrikaner cuisine 35 233, 242 shopping 172-5 Cape Town Festival of Banting 34 250 Beer 24, 127

C- sights 58-61, 65, 68-76 biltong 35, 34  Drakenstein Correctional Cape Town Fringe 23, 126

G walks 117, 120, 117, 120 Cape Malay cuisine  Centre 207 Cape Town International Clifton 33, 35 94 drinking, see individual Jazz Festival 22-3, 126 courses 35 climate 16, 22-4, see also locations, wineries Cape Town International individual regions courses 35 Kite Festival 23, 126 foraging 34 Clock Tower 88 driving, see car travel Cape Town Minstrel internet resources 32 Cogmanskloof 190-1 drought 254 Carnival 22, 125, opening hours 32 comedy 171 266, 274 112 sustainability 33 Company’s Garden 60-1, 60 Cape Town Nu World vegetarian 35, 36 Constantia 100 Festival 23, 126 Foreshore, see City Bowl, consulates 183 E Cape Town Pride 22 Foreshore, Bo-Kaap & East City, District Six, De Waterkant courses Design Indaba 22, 125 Woodstock & Observa- forests brewing 35 First Thursdays 172 tory 50-1, 79, 80-1 Garden of Eden 241 cooking 35 Franschhoek Literary accommodation 130 Festival 23 Tokai Forest 102 drink 35 drinking & nightlife Freedom Swim 23 fossils 224 food 35 160-2 Galileo Outdoor Cinema Franschhoek 12, 202-7, foraging 35, 121 entertainment 170 24 203, 12 wine 36 food 143-5 Good Food & Wine accommodation 204-5 169 shopping 176-8 Show 126 activities 204 crime 255 sights 62-3, 76-7 Hands on Harvest 214 drinking & nightlife 206 cultural tours 124-5, 233, ecotourism Hermanus Whale Festival food 205-6 243 216 Lynedoch EcoVillage 194 sights 202-4 culture 266-70 Infecting the City 23, 126 Oudebosch Eco Cabins shopping 206 culture centres 225 216 Kirstenbosch Summer tours 204 currency 16, 281 electricity 280, 281 Sunset Concerts 24 wineries 202 customs regulations 280 elephants 242 Mama City Improv free attractions 19 cycling 31, 123, 185, 199, Elgin Valley 215-16 Festival 24, 126 286 fynbos 63, 277 embassies 183 MCQP 24 cycling tours emergencies 17 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Cape Town 22, 124 Week 23, 126 entertainment 21, see also G Franschhoek 204 individual locations Miss Gay Western Cape galleries, see museums & 24, 126 Knysna 242 environment 277-8 galleries Old Mutual Two Oceans Tulbagh 212 etiquette 17 Gansbaai 220-1 Marathon 23, 126 Evita se Perron 223-4 Garden Route 46, 227-52, Open Book Festival 228-9, 13 exchange rates 17 23, 126 D accommodation 227 dance 169 OUTsurance Kfm 94.5 climate 227 Danger Point Lighthouse F Gun Run 24, 126 221 food 227 farms Oyster Festival 243 Darling 223-4 highlights 13, 228-9 Babylonstoren 210 Pink Loerie Festival De Lille, Patricia 265 itineraries 25, 28-9, 25, Cape Point Ostrich 23, 243 28-9 De Waterkant, see City Farm 112 Season of Sauvignon Bowl, Foreshore, Bo- surfing 13, 230-1 Imhoff Farm 109 24, 126 Kaap & De Waterkant travel seasons 227 Klein River Cheese Stellenbosch Wine disabilities, travellers with Garden Route National Farm 222 Festival 199 283-4 Park 237, 250 Marbin Olives 213 Streetopia 24, 126-7 discount cards 184, 280 Sun Met 22, 125 gardens, see parks & Oakhurst Olives 211 gardens City Farm 83 Wacky Wine Weekend 214 Gardens & Surrounds 84 Ferris wheels 83, 85 Map Pages 000 Wavescape Surf & Ocean accommodation 130-2 festivals & events 22-4, Photo Pages Festival 24, 127 drinking & nightlife 162-3 000 125-7 297 entertainment 170-1 Outeniqua Trail 242 12, 35 money 16, 17, 281-2 food 145-7 Oystercatcher Trail 233 Kalk Bay Harbour 107 Montagu 191 shopping 178-9 Pipe Track 56 kayaking & canoeing 43 Montagu Pass 236 sights 77-81 Platteklip Gorge 54-5 Anchor Bay 116 monuments, sculptures & gay travellers 22, 157, 281 Robberg Nature & Hermanus 217 statues geography 277 Marine Reserve 249 Knysna 242 Arch for Arch 59 geology 277 Smuts Track 55 Nature’s Valley 251 Just Nuisance Statue 111 INDEX George 235-7 Stellenbosch 199 Simon’s Town 121 Prestwich Memorial 74 golf Table Mountain National West Coast 226 103

-King David Mowbray Golf Park 54-7 Wilderness 237 Taal Monument 207  G

Club 123 Tsitsikamma Mountain 115 mosques 67  M Trail 250-1 Links at Fancourt 236 Khoekhoen people 256 Mossel Bay 230, 232-5, history 20, 256-65 Metropolitan Golf Kirstenbosch 100-1 232 Club 119 Act of Union 259 Kirstenbosch National motorcycle travel 184, 286-7 apartheid 259 Golf Club 123 Botanical Garden 13, mountain biking 44, 243, Oubaai 230 Boer War 258 95-6, 2, 13 see also cycling Green Point & Waterfront books 261, 264 kite-surfing 123, 224 Muizenberg 103-7, 104-5, 51, 86 British takeover 257-8 Kleinmond 216 museums & galleries 19-20 accommodation 132-4 democracy 262 kloofing 43-4, 215, 248 A4 Arts Foundation 76 Dutch arrival 257 drinking & nightlife 164 Knysna 13, 239-46, 240, Afrikaans Language entertainment 171 Europan arrival 256-7 245, 13 Museum 207 food 147-8 homelands 259-60 accommodation 243-4 AHEM! Art Collective 78 shopping 179-80 Mandela, Nelson 64, activities 242-3 Bo-Kaap Museum 65 260, 261 sights 66-7, 81-9 festivals & events 243 Cape Town Holocaust Pagad 263 Centre 77 Green Point Lighthouse food 244-6 Truth & Reconciliation Cape Town Science 87-8 sights 239-41 Commission 262 Centre 76-7 98 tours 243 Guguletu 115 websites 261 Casa Labia Cultural wineries 38 Centre 107 hitch-hiking 288 L Castle Military Museum 61 H holidays 282 Langa 113, 114 health 281 Ceramics Gallery 204 homelands 259-60 Langebaan 224-5 195 horse riding 122, 123, languages Museum 83 Hermanus 15, 216-20, 218- 213, 248 Afrikaans 267, 289-90 19, 2-3, 15 CP Nel Museum 193 Houses of Parliament 69 Xhosa 290-1 230, Diamond Museum 85, 87 230 Hout Bay, see to lesbian travellers 22, 157, Higgovale 88-9 Hout Bay 280-1 Dias Museum Complex 232-3 hiking 43, 56, see also Hout Bay Harbour 92 Lion’s Head 55 District Six Museum 11, walks Huisrivier Pass 192 literature 254, 275 62-3, 11, 62 Boesmanskloof Trail 215 human rights 38 live music 21, 168, 169, 170, Franschhoek Motor Cape of Good Hope 171, 172 Museum 202 Trail 56 Long St Baths 115 I George Museum 236 Cape Camino 122 69 immigration 285 Goodman Gallery Cliff Path Walking luxury travel 21 Trail 217 initiation rites 267 Cape 78 Lynedoch EcoVillage 194 Contour Path: insurance 281, 287 Greatmore Studios 78 Constantia Nek to Intaka Island 113 96 Rhodes Memorial 56 internet access 127, 281 M Guga S’Thebe Arts & Dolphin Trail 251 internet resources 43 magazines 284 Cultural Centre 113 Elephant Day Walks 242 Islam 268 Mandela, Nelson 64, Heart of Cape Town Museum 77 Elgin Valley 215 itineraries 25-9, 25, 26, 27, 260, 261 Heritage Museum 111 Green Mountain Trail 215 28-9, see also scenic Marine Protected Areas 278 Coastal Trail drives, walks markets 21, 177, 201, Huguenot Memorial 242-3 239, 20 Museum 204 India Venster Trail 56 massage 116 Irma Stern Museum 96 Kasteelspoort 57 J McGregor 215 Iziko Slave Lodge 68 Judaism 269 Kingfisher Trail 237 microlighting 44 Jetty 1 89 Knysna 243 Milkwood Tree Post 234 John H Marsh Maritime Research Centre 88 Lion’s Head Trail 55 K Milnerton 114 Koopmans-de Wet Otter Trail 250 Kalk Bay 12, 103-7, 104-5, mobile phones 16, 283 House 75 298 museums & galleries De Hoop Nature Reserve P religion 255, 268-9 continued 224 Paarl 207-11, 198, 208 restrooms 283 Langa Pass Museum 113 Fernkloof Nature Reserve accommodation 209-10 Rhodes Must Fall 255 216 Maker’s Mark 212 activities 209 riots 255 Garden Route National museums & galleries food 210-11 10, 64, continued Park 237, 250 sights 207 10, 64

INDEX INDEX Goukamma Nature Maritime Centre 88 Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve 238 wineries 207-9 Millwood House 241 Reserve 249 Helderberg Nature Pagad 263-4 Old Gaol Museum 241 Robertson 213-15 Reserve 195 paragliding 44, 116

M-S Old Harbour Museum 217 Robinson Dry Dock 85  Hottentots Holland parking 127, 186 Oude Kerk Volksmuseum rock climbing 43-4, 116, Nature Reserve 215 parks & gardens 19 212 191, 44 Intaka Island 113 103 Outeniqua Transport Rock Girl Benches 69 Jonkershoek Nature Braak 194-5 Museum 235 rollerblading 123 Reserve 194 Green Point Urban Park Paarl Museum 207 Ronnies Sex Shop 191-2, Keurbooms River Nature 82-3 Photographic Museum Reserve 247 192-3 217 Harold Porter National Knysna Lagoon 239, 241 Route 62 190-3, 190, 192-3 Rust en Vreugd 80 Botanical Gardens 216 Kogelberg Nature Kirstenbosch National rugby 83, 169 Simon’s Town Museum Reserve 216 111 Botanical Garden 13, Paarl Mountain Nature 95-6, 2, 13 South African Jewish Reserve 207 S Museum 77-8 Maiden’s Cove 93 safety 255, 282 Robberg Nature & Rust en Vreugd 80 South African Museum Marine Reserve 249 Table Mountain 79-80 Stellenbosch University National Park 57 Sanbona Wildlife Reserve Botanical Garden 194 South African National 191 taxis 31 Gallery 61, 78, 60 Two Rivers Urban sailing 119, 242 Silvermine Nature Park 76 South African Naval San people 256 Reserve 103 passports 285 Museum 111 Save Our Seas Shark Stony Point Nature Paternoster 225-6 South African Print Reserve 216 Education Centre 107 Gallery 78 people 266-70 Table Mountain National scenic drives Springbok Experience 83 Park 54-7 performing arts 276 Bainskloof Pass 212 Stevenson 78 Tokai Forest 102 photography 282 Chapman’s Peak Drive Toy & Miniature Museum Walker Bay Nature Pinelands 114 119, 30 195 Reserve 221 planetariums 81 Knysna to Plettenberg University Museum 194 West Coast National planning, see also Bay 246 Village Museum 194 Park 15, 226 individual regions Montagu Pass 236 Whale House Museum Nature’s Valley 250-2 budgeting 17 Outeniqua Pass 236 217 Cape Town basics 16-17 Route 44 to Hermanus William Fehr 169 Cape Town & the Garden 216 Collection 61 Newlands Rugby Stadium Route’s regions 45-6 Route 62 190-3, 190, Youngblood Africa 69 169 internet resources 17 192-3 Zeitz MOCAA 66-7, newspapers 284 itineraries 25-9, 25, 26, scenic flights 119 , 20 66 Noetzie 246 27, 28-9 scooter travel 186 music 274-5, see also live 124 repeat visitors 18 sea life 278 music Northern Suburbs, see travel seasons 16, 22-4 Sea Point to Hout Bay Mutual Heights 73, 74 Cape Flats & Northern plants 277-8 90-1, 92 Suburbs Plettenberg Bay 231, 246- accommodation 134-5 N 50, 247 drinking & nightlife 165 National Library of South O politics 254-5 entertainment 171 Africa 63 Observatory, see East City, population 255 food 149-51 national parks & reserves District Six, Woodstock postal services 282 shopping 180-1 Botlierskop Private & Observatory public art 77, 96, 121, 275 sights 89-94 Game Reserve 233 opening hours 17, 281 public holidays 282 seals 249 Cape Columbine Nature Oranjezicht 83, 88-9 self-catering 128 Reserve 225 ostriches 193, 192 serviced appartments 128 Cape of Good Hope 11, otters 250 R 107-8, 11 racial groups 266-7 shacks 270 Oudekraal 135 racism 268 shared taxis 31, 288 Oudtshoorn 193, 192 radio 284 shark-cage diving 222, 43 Outeniqua Pass 236 Map Pages 000 rafting 43 shopping 21, see also Overberg, the 214-23 Photo Pages 000 Rastafarians 242 individual locations 299 Signal Hill 78 Buffalo Bay 231 Tulbagh 211-13 varieties 40 Simon’s Town & Southern Garden Route 13, 230-1, Tutu, Archbishop Desmond workers’ wines 40 Peninsula 51, 108-9 13, 231 263 Winelands 37-41, 194-214 accommodation 136-7 Knysna 242 TV 284 ballooning 209 drinking & nightlife 166-7 Mossel Bay 230, 233 Twelve Apostles 92 itineraries 27, 27 entertainment 172 Muizenberg 105, 121, 122 wineries 37-42, 198, 39 food 153-5 Plettenberg Bay 231, 248 U Anura 209 INDEX shopping 182-3 230-1 Ubuntu 269 Avondale 207 sights 103-12 swimming 115, 119 Backsberg 209 travel to/from 107 synagogues 77 103 Beau Constantia 102  S-W skateboarding 123 Bergkelder 197 skydiving 123, 233, 248 T Blaauwklippen 198-9 snoek 35 V Table Mountain 9, 54-7, V&A Waterfront 9, 81-2, 9 Boschendal 202 snorkelling, see diving & 8-9, 48 Bouchard Finlayson 220 snorkelling vegan travellers 35 Table Mountain Frames 80 Bramon 247 soccer 169, 264-5 vegetarian travellers 35 Table Mountain National Buitenverwachting Victoria Bay 230-1, 231 South African Park 54-7, 54, 102, 48 98, 39 Planetarium 81 viewpoints 19, 78 accommodation 131 Cape Point Vineyards 111 Southern African visas 16, 283-4 books 57 Chamonix 204 Sustainable Seafood visual arts 273 guided walks 57 Constantia Glen 98 Initiative 33 volunteering 284 Southern Suburbs 51, 97 history 278 Constantia Uitsig 102 accommodation 136 information 57 Creation 220 drinking & nightlife 165-6 maps 57 W De Grendel 112 walking tours 124 entertainment 171-2 safety 57 Delaire Graff Estate 197 walks, see also hiking food 151-3 trails 54-57 Durbanville Hills 112 84, 88-9 Bobbejaans River Walk Durbanville Wine shopping 181 212 tap water 281 Route 112 sights 94-103 City Bowl 117, taxes 282-3 117 Eagle’s Nest 102 walk 99, 99 Foreshore Public Art taxis 31, 186, 288 Excelsior 213 spirit worship 269 Walk 120, 120 telephone services 16, 283 Fairview 208 sports 21, 169, see also Muizenberg & St James theatre 168, 169, 170, 171, Glen Carlou 209 individual sports 106, 106 172, 276 Graham Beck 213 squares Southern Suburbs time 16, 283 Grande Provence 202 Church Square 58 99, 99 tipping 281-2 Groot Constantia 96 73 Wellington Wine Walk 212 toilets 283 Groote Post 223 69 water, drinking 281 tourist information 184, Hartenberg Estate 197 Heritage Square 76 water shortages 254 283 Haute Cabrière 203 85 water sports 122, see also tours, see also individual stand-up paddle boarding individual sports Hillcrest Estate 112 locations 242 Waterfront, see Green history 38 cultural tours 124-5, Stanford 221-3 Point & Waterfront human rights 38 233, 243 stargazing 81 weather 16, 22-4 internet resources 36 cycling tours 124, 204, itineraries 27, 38, 40, Stellenbosch 14, 194-202, 242, 212 Wellington 212 27 Klein Constantia 98 196-7, 198, 14 nature tours 125 West Coast Fossil Park 224 KWV Emporium 208-9 accommodation 199-200 Outeniqua Power Van 236 West Coast National Park 15, 226 KWV Sensorium 209 activities 199 townships 124-5, 243 whale watching 216, 217, La Motte 202 drinking & nightlife 201 walking tours 124 220, 242, 248 La Vierge 220 entertainment 201 wineries 40, 199, 212 wi-fi 127, 281 Leopard’s Leap 202-3 festivals & events 199 townships 113-15, 269-70 Wild Cards 280 Marianne Wines 197-8 food 200-1 tours 124-5, 243 Wilderness 14, 237-8, 15 Meerendal 112 shopping 201 traffic 111 wildlife 278 Meerlust Estate 198 sights 194-9 train crisis 254 windsurfing 224 Mont Rochelle 204 tourist information 201 train travel 31, 184, 186, tours 199 288 wine 36-41, 39 see also Nederburg Wines 209 wineries travel to/from 202 transport 17, 30-1, 285-8 Newton Johnson 220 courses 36 travel within 202 Tretchikoff, Vladimir 273 Nitida 112 glossary 41 wineries 195-9 Truth & Reconciliation Paul Cluver Wines 215 student riots 255 Commission 262 history 38 Robert Stanford Estate surfing 44 tubing 248 trends 41 222 300 wineries continued tours 38, 199, 204, 212, women travellers 284 yachting, see sailing Saronsberg Cellar 212 220, 248 Woodstock, see East City, Solms-Delta 204 Twee Jonge Gezellen 211 District Six, Woodstock Van Loveren 213 & Observatory Z Spice Route 208 Zeitz MOCAA Museum Van Ryn Brandy Cellar World Cup 2010 265 wineries continued 66-7, 66 197 Wynberg 95, 100 Spier 195 Zille, Helen 265 INDEX INDEX Vergelegen 195, 39 Springfield 213 zip-lining 215 Vergenoegd 197 Stanford Hills 221-2 X zoos & wildlife reserves Viljoensdrift 213 Steenberg Farm 98 Xhosa 267 Meerkat Adventures 193

W-Z Villiera 196  Tanagra Private Cellar 290-1 Monkeyland 247 215 Warwick Estate 195 Tokara 197 Waterkloof 195 Y

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 301 NOTES SORINA CHIRITA

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Cape Town (City Bowl, Foreshore, Bo-Kaap & De Waterkant; East City, District Six, Woodstock & Observatory; Gardens & Surrounds; Green Point & Waterfront) Jour- nalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s, and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on theirCentral Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website, he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

James Bainbridge Cape Town (Cape Flats & Northern Suburbs, Sea Point to Hout Bay, Simon’s Town & Southern Peninsula, Southern Suburbs) James is a British travel writer and journalist based in Cape Town, South Africa, from where he roams the globe and contributes to publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Plan- et projects for over a decade, updating dozens of guidebooks and TV hosting everywhere from the African bush to the Great Lakes. The coordinating author of several editions of Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland, Turkey and Morocco guides, his articles on travel, culture and investment appear in the likes of BBC Travel, the UK Guardian and Independent, Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet Traveller.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Garden Route (Nature’s Valley) Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, out- doors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French.

Lucy Corne Around Cape Town, Garden Route Lucy left university with a degree in journalism and a pair of perpetually itchy feet. She taught EFL for eight years in Spain, South Korea, Canada, China and India, while writing freelance features for a range of mag- azines, newspapers and websites. She joined the Lonely Planet team in 2008, and has since worked on a range of titles including Africa, The Canary Islands, South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland and several foodie titles. Lucy lives in Cape Town with her husband and young son, where she writes on travel, food and beer. Her popular blog, www.brew- mistress.co.za, documents the South African beer scene.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – Oct 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 167 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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