Zahle, City of Gastronomy UNESCO Creative Cities Network Published by UNESCO Regional Office - Beirut with the support of the Municipality of Zahle

First edition October 2013

Based on the Idea of and under the supervision of Eng. Joseph Kreidi

Reseach & Content Chérine Yazbeck

Photography © Chérine Yazbeck

Design Chantal Coroller

Printing RAIDY

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.

THE PAPER USED IS RECYCLABLE

The ideas and opinions expressed herein are those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of UNESCO. TABLE OF CONTENT

1. MANAGEMENT TEAM P8 2. VISION P10 3. MISSION P12 4. GEOGRAPHY P14 5. COMMUNITY P16 6. STORY OF THE CITY P18 7. RESOURCES P26 8. CULTURE & TRADITION – poetry, literature, photography, painting… P34 9. ECONOMY P44 10. GASTRONOMY P54 11. FARMERS P76 12. THE GRAPE ROUTE: OF WINE AND ARAK P84 13. FESTIVALS & CULTURAL EVENTS P98 14. PARTNERSHIP P104

SOURCES P106 APPENDIX P106

7 owners, industrials, politicians, > From the Municipality of Zahle Aziz Wardy, owner of winery Wardy, 1. MANAGEMENT entrepreneurs, cultural main figures President of the Municipality: Joseph Zahle. TEAM and tourism experts who expressed a Maalouf ([email protected]) ([email protected]) great interest in joining the ‘Creative Elise Estephan Tamer, lawyer Jean-Paul Khoury, owner of winery The idea of Zahle joining the Cities Network’ that would put Zahle and teacher at Law University. Château Khoury, Zahle. ‘Creative Cities Network’ came up on the map and encourage the city to Chairwoman of Zahle Municipality. Sébastien Khoury, wine expert and naturally formulated by Joseph acquire a regional and international ([email protected]) owner of Domaine de Baal, Zahle. Kreidi, Programme Officer for status of gastronomic city. The Youssef Skaf, municipality ([email protected]) Culture at UNESCO-Beirut Office. two main zahliots that helped me counsellor Michel Mhanna, food specialist, fulfil this project are Khalil Geha, a owner of oldest Berdawni restaurant, Mr. Kreidi appointed Chérine Youssef Kerouni, lawyer and co- prominent figure of Zahle and Irène Mhanna, Zahle. Yazbeck, a local food culture owner of a press group. Alouf, owner of an eco-friendly Jean Arabi, mezze expert, owner of specialist to fulfil the task. Zahle has Samir Mallo, dentist, member of the organic boutique hotel in Zahle. This Casino Arabi, Berdawni, Zahle. been committed for over a century Municipality. achievement would also connect Pascal Nmeir, owner of Casino to the spread and recognition of Michel Ballech, lawyer & counsellor. Zahle to other cities that are already Nmeir, Berdawni, Zahle. traditional Lebanese food. Elias Chamoun, counsellor. part of the global network. Elie Ghattas, chef and owner of As a long-time gastronomy leader restaurants in Zahle. in the region, Zahle intends to The Team that will work on > Administration & culture of Clément Tannouri, Zahle develop the cultural food heritage the follow-up of this project is Zahle photographer, writer. (info@ with ambitious projects. With its composed of committed locals. Said Gédeon, executive at Bekaa clementtannouri.com) assets, Zahle aims to attract even Chambre of Commerce and Rosine Zahlaoui, founder of Artisan more visitors into the region by > Point Person Agriculture. ([email protected]) guild, Zahle. supporting the creative local food Chérine Yazbeck: Project Khalil Geha, CEO of Geha company, Kamil Skaff, owner of Skaff Farm. community. Coordinator and specialist of the history of Zahle. Barbara Abdeni Massaad, food [email protected] ([email protected]) writer, author of ‘Mouneh’. As the person responsible for the Lebanese food expert, food writer, Feyrouz Chamoun, founder of Zahle Nicolas abou Fayssal, owner of project, I have contacted the main journalist and photographer. Historic Museum. Gardenia Grain d’Or, food company, actors of the food industry working Author of ‘The rural taste of Zahle. hand in hand with the Municipality Lebanon – a food heritage trail’, ‘Le > Food experts & hospitality Walid Mouzannar, member of of Zahle and at its head, Mr. Joseph Liban Gourmand’ (a foodie guide), Irène Alouf, owner of an organic L’Académie Internationale de la Maalouf. I met a substantial number ‘Le Liban Autrement’ (ecotourism guesthouse in Zahle. (irene@ Gastronomie, Lebanon. of farmers, small-scale producers, guide), ‘A Complete Insiders Guide beitelkroum.com) Kamal Mouzawak, founder of the foodies, restaurant owners, to Lebanon’ and the ‘Shouf Cedars Johayna Dawalibe, nutritionist in Farmer market, Souk el Tayeb. pastry shop owners, bakeries Reserve’ guidebook. Zahle

8 9 together with cities across the world to share its story and connect with many cultures as it has always proven to do throughout the centuries. It is even more significant now that the Middle East is going through turmoil and major changes in the scope of the Arab Spring. Zahle finds itself in the middle of this (re) evolutionary process. The aim of this application is to enable the city to push forward new diversification projects by attracting new contributors in many fields and mainly in the food sector. Zahle wishes to encourage and unite creative small-scale farmers, artisans and producers in order to acquire the local economy based on good and fair food alongside a sustainable and reliable farming. Residents of Zahle and to a certain extent the Bekaa residents have always been keen on safeguarding their traditions through handicrafts and the transmission of food heritage. They feel a certain pride in 2. VISION story and culture of the city that fair trade, exchange, know-how and the preservation of this expertise. lies at the crossroad of many routes. diversity. In the event of integrating Zahle to Gastronomy and Zahle are strongly Harvests, the land, the attachment ‘Creative Cities Network’, the city In the scheme of designing the connected since decades. Located in to local produces, the respect of would boost gastronomic programs project application to integrate Zahle the midst of the agricultural region Mother Nature, the connexion to the focused on the tradition linked to into ‘Creative Cities Network’, we of the Middle East, Zahle enjoys an region are elements that have been modern techniques. The incentive would like to establish the legacy ideal place whereby regional cultures driving Zahle for centuries. would draw the path of a renewed of Zahle as the heritage city for mingle and interact. Natural resources are essential yet active region whereby locally regional food. Unesco confidence ‘Creative Cities Network’ would assets to the city and they all end up produced food would be highly and focus on the city would certainly empower the strengths of the local designing a unique cultural profile. represented and promoted giving a initiate a general interest into the communities to join and improve Zahle has a strong will to come serious push to local economies.

10 11 3. MISSION

Zahle wishes to apply to ‘Creative Cities Network’ in order to boost the local economy driven mainly by its gastronomic assets. The city is already a main actor in the region when it comes to food heritage culture and would like to generate a global interest on the regional wealth, food. The city would enhance food related projects as well as investments in the sustainable food production. Indeed, the city intends to develop interests in fair and organic food processes that would draw a better future to the food industry alongside a healthier and environment driven agricultural economy. Zahle is a city with a strong rural identity. It is located at the heart of the Bekaa Plateau in a sparsely populated region. Zahle boasts a long-lasting culinary tradition with a stunning gastronomic culture based on locally produced sustainable food. The objective of being part of ‘Creative Cities Network Unesco’ is to place Zahle on the global map and to raise interest in preserving its regional input.

12 13 foothills of the mountain, at the valley into the plain and waters the outskirts spread vertically on steep 4. GEOGRAPHY Western edge of the Bekaa plateau, gardens of Zahle. hill slopes, and the town features an with Mount Sannine 2,628 metres Zahle has a delightful prospect of elevation difference of more than A blessed geographical location towering above it. It is on the brow the fertile plain – once referred to as 200 metres in a narrow geographical of a mountain of which there are “the grain warehouse of Rome” and area. Zahle is 50 kilometers far from sublime views of the extensive the surrounding outlook enhances it The Berdawni was at a time the Beirut, in the heart of the country at vale bounded on each side by lofty serene atmosphere. town’s source of drinking water and an equal distance between the north, mountains. The hills form a narrow valley, its most prized natural emblem. the south, the east and the west. Zahle is built in an inlet of the an extension of a ravine to the The river winds through the valley, Hence, it enjoys a strategic location mountain, on a steep ascent, northwest (“Wadi el Arayesh” or fringed with masses of foliage, in the most renowned fertile land. surrounded with vineyards. The Valley of Vines). in which tall and stately poplars Zahle is built upon a series of river Berdawni issues from a narrow Due to its unique topography, Zahle predominate the rich vineyards clothing the whole slopes of the mountains and wild glens that furrow their sides.

Climate

Zahle enjoys a Mediterranean climate characterized by hot and dry summers and cold and chilly winters, where most of the precipitation is concentrated. However, due to its high altitude and inland location, in the rain shadow of the Lebanon mountains, its climate features some continental characteristics: summers are hotter than coastal areas, with peaks of 38°C in summer together with low humidity. Temperatures fall below 20°C at night, which makes summer particularly pleasant compared to coastal cities. On the other hand, winters are cold. The north wind in the valley is so freezing that residents refer to it as a “break nails”. In the valley, temperatures can easily plummet below -10°C.

14 15 together in order to celebrate a Saint, a holy feast or simply to party.

Tucked away from Lebanon’s busy coastal centers, the people of Zahle have developed their own brand of individualism and way of doing things. The city’s reputation for intellectual dynamism comes from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets who have contributed to Lebanon’s cultural and political scene. Zahle is renowned in Lebanon for its high educational level. Many celebrities in poetry, arts, culture, literature all hail from this village- city. Among the most famous, Said Akl, Khalil Farhat, Michel Tard, Riyad Maalouf or Joseph Abitaan.

Families in Zahle own a ‘karake’ – a homemade arak distil. They distil arak thanks to a know-how passed down on to generations. Arak is sometimes referred to as ‘arak zahlaoui’ and the ‘zahliot’ (of Zahle) expression is well known: ‘Zahle, Zahle - Zahletna wa churbe el arak adetna, wa l Berdawni mayetna’ (Zahle, Zahle, our Zahle – and 5. COMMUNITY It is third largest city in magnitude The people of Zahle share strong arak drinking is our custom, and the Berdawni is our water). This and importance to Lebanon. family ties and excellent neighbourly hymn drafted by Rachid el Safadi Zahle is after Beirut and Tripoli in Nevertheless, it has a village feel. connexions. It is common to believe dates back to 1857. At that time, terms of size but also with respect Dwellers lie somewhere between that most residents spend their the people of Zahle had proclaimed to economic, cultural, and political rural and urban world. They Sundays visiting each other, going to their city an autonomous republic. influence, the third most influent are strongly attached to values; church or to funerals. The manufacturing of arak spread city in Lebanon. yet, despite this strongly rooted Moreover, at feasts, Zahle residents throughout the country, yet the The population of about 150,000 personality, they have developed would participate actively in support Bekaa remains the region of vine residents is spread into 34 villages. their city in the most modern way. to their city. They like to come growing.

16 17 deer would roam freely before the 18th century.

In 1810, Zahle was part of the territory of the Druzes under the authority of Emir Bachir based in Deir el-Qamar. The inhabitants gained their subsistence partly by the cultivation of their vineyards and a few mulberry plantations and partly by their shops through the commerce of sheep and their manufacture. Many dyeing houses used indigo only to dye cloths. Cotton was bought from Nablous. They would likewise fabricate abbayas or woollen mantles. The various manufactured articles were sold to the peasantry who flock in from the mountains.

Zahle was burnt three times, in 1777, 1791, and in 1860 during a memorable conflict that opposed Christians Druzes. Zahle was a large 6. STORY up into considerable importance. flourishing town upon the verge of town chiefly inhabited by Christians Zahle lies in the Bekaa plateau, in- the plain of the Bekaa is renowned who paid tribute to the Emir of the OF THE CITY between Mount and Anti Lebanon. for the utmost kindness and Druzes. The last total destruction It is known as the “Bride of the hospitality of its native hosts. of the city left it miserable and at a glance… Bekaa” and famed for its festivals in despair; nevertheless in the and feasts. Zahle was founded in the early 18th aftermath of this demolition, during Zahle is the capital and largest city of The City of Wine and Poetry or century but lies in the middle of an the Mutasarafiyah era, Zahle was the Bekaa Governorate. ‘City of khamra and Poetry Khamra ancient environment that goes back rebuilt and thriving again. Lebanon was given the epithet including Arak and Wine’ is to five millennia. In 1622, the great The construction of the railroad line “Switzerland of the East” by celebrated throughout the region Fakhreddine el-Maan set the region between Beirut and Damascus in travellers that have applied to it for its pleasant climate, abundant of el-Karak on fire at the time when 1885 put Zahle on the map while ever since the 19th century. Zahle riverside restaurants and local Zahle surroundings used to be a conveying prosperity to the city as is located 55 km east of the capital arak. It is romantically situated on large wild forest. Zahle was referred it became a freight hub on the trade Beirut, on the crossroads of the the edge of a deep ravine with the to as the Valley of the Tigers due to route between Lebanon, Syria and Beirut-Damascus junction. most exhilarating scenery of the far a huge number of tigers wandering Iraq. It resumed its role as a regional Over the last decades, it has sprung stretching verdure of the Bekaa. This in its whereabouts. Leopards, bears, agricultural centre.

18 19 A hospitable city accommodate tourists flocking from Kroum. Beit el Kroum ran by Irene A flag, an anthem, a feel of all over the region. In 1878, Hotel Alouf is a family hotel serving genuine autonomy… In the 18th century, the caravanserai el-Soha was the first establishment to organic Zahle food. With its signature was a roadside inn where travelers welcome tourists. Unfortunately, it mouneh (preserved food), the owner Zahle was the first independent state rest and recover from the day’s didn’t survive the devastating 1975- offers homemade produce for in- in the region in the 19th century, journey. Caravanserais supported 1989 war and is closed since 1981. house meals. Among specialties, Beit when it declared its autonomy to the the flow of commerce of traders of Hotel America, Hotel Akl and Hotel el Kroum prepares kishk (fermented Ottoman regime and had its own trade routes along the Silk Road. Kadri played a significant role in the yogurt) with a special torpedo-shaped flag and anthem. Zahle was a main intersection lodging activity of the city. Akl and kebbe dipped in Kishk soup, stuffed In 1820, during the battle of Maze, whereby merchants would stop over, Kadri are still operating now. vine leaves, goat labne in olive oil the people of Zahle created a red and have a meal, feed their horses and Guesthouse such as Garda Hotel, Al and leyali Zahle. The latter is a milk green flag symbolizing the city. Red, spend the night over in order to take Fadi Center and Saint Joseph’s home pudding with different layers. The for blood, green for life, survival and the road the next day. One of the cater for backpackers. first layer is composed of a milk fertility atop a cross for victory. most popular caravanserai has been Hotel Traboulsi (1913), Hotel pudding, banana bites, achta (milk recently renovated by the Wardy Arabi (1978) and Monte Alberto cream) topped with honey. Beit el Late 19th century, Zahle had totally family. It is composed of a stable (1990) added to the prestigious Kroum boutique hotel offers charming recovered from several battles and for horses and several rooms where offers already operating in the city. bedrooms with a great view of the conflicts and enjoys since the turn merchants would sleep in. Monte Alberto is a landmark hotel Bekaa valley and the Sannine peek. of the century a prosperous industry Traditionally, Zahle has always been overlooking the city. Each bedroom has it’s own theme, and economy. a city where travellers would meet reflected in it’s unique furniture, Zahle is home to lofty edifices and Nowadays, a new era in hospitality and interact while sharing food over colors, textures, lighting and aromas contiguous structures, gardens and travel stories. has been achieved with the opening to suit one’s mood. plantations, fruits and flowers, with a At the turn of the 19th century, of a modern spirited auberge such as limpid river passing through it. Zahle started establishing hotels to the most recent guesthouse: Beit el Run by motivated and active Nada Hraoui, Tanbakji is a restaurant Zahle offers the most bewildering that perpetuates old village recipes. mass of color, patches and strips The setting is made of old furniture of green and brown, dashes of red, designed as a tribute to old Lebanese blotches of burnt-umber and sienna. houses of the Bekaa plateau. The owner’s aim is to safeguard old family In 1914, Jamal Pacha the Turk recipes sharing them with travellers invaded the city and turned Hotel and locals. The chef in charge hails Kadry into a hospital for its army. from the Bekaa and has an accurate He then seized grain warehouses idea about food growing and high and sheep to force the inhabitants quality produce. Most of the food is to resilience. Zahle and the Mount bought from neighbouring farmers Lebanon Mutassarifiyya were part of and producers. the Ottoman Empire. In the region, several high-end hotels such as Park Hotel or In 1916, Sykes Picot convention Massabki in Chtoura offer excellent appoints France as the mandate facilities together with local food. authority of the region. In the

20 21 Zahle, a word, three explanations…

Zahle might have been named after “zahila” referring to its great land movements. Another option would be a tribute to Zahlan, the prince of the Hilal family based in Zahle in the 7th century during Arab invasion. A more mystical explanation would be in reference to Zuhal or Saturn as Romans worshiped the God of Fertility incarnated by the planet Saturn.

William H. Rau (1903) Zahleh of Lebanon, a prosperous Christian village of Syria. “Zahleh is the largest village of Lebanon, containing 15,000 inhabitants. It owes its prosperity mainly to the labours of missionaries from England and the United States who have made it a center of education and Christian influence. It has numerous churches, mission schools of a high grade and manufactories of various kinds. The town has an air of comfort, cleanliness, intelligence and thrift very rare in Palestine. Here one aftermath of WWI after the defeat commercial activities. Natives province of the Bekaa. In 1943, sees women without the distinctive of Turkey allied to the Germans, in zahliots such as Chebel Dammous Lebanon was independent and dress of the Mohammedan women, September 1920, General Gouraud and Moussa Nammour contributed Zahle, a flourishing city. From 1975 women of more beauty, intelligence declared Bekaa, Baalbek, Hasbaya to the draft of the Lebanese till 1989, Zahle suffered from the and character, with hope in their and Rashaya officially lands of the Constitution in 1926. consequences of the War. At the faces and joy in their lives. The place Greater Lebanon. end of the war, Elias el-Hrawi, a is more western than oriental. Miles During the French mandate, the In 1930, Zahle became a caza zahliot was elected President of the of vineyards are seen and there are city prospered and developed its consequently the capital of the Republic. many thriving manufactories”

22 23 24 25 7. RESOURCES contribute to the development of to the effects of the post-war (1975- agricultural sector, if other socio- a more environmental friendly 1990) economical crisis, and to the economic and geo-political Lebanon is a country with a agricultural sector. economical policies favouring the constraints are overcome. unique geographical position. In 2002, agriculture in Lebanon tertiary sector (services) over the At the household level, agriculture However, agriculture based represented 6% of the GDP, and 7% primary and secondary sectors. is mainly a part time activity, mainly in the Bekaa is still an of the active population, while in The natural advantages of complementing other production, artisan industry. Farmers in rural 1970 its contribution to the GDP the country in terms of water or service activities. Commercial areas need capacity-building to was around 9% with 19% of the resources, number of sunny agriculture is not very frequent, improve their farming methods active population. Agricultural days, geomorphology and and when it occurs it must be thus increasing their productivity production has decreased by 12% climate diversity would allow complemented by other economical and competiveness. This would between 1970 and 2008 mainly due the development of an efficient inputs. (T)

26 27 Fragmentation and small sizes The Bekaa plain offers large areas of farms are characteristic of the of arable lands planted mainly mountains and the South while with cereals and sugar beet. Grape they are a little larger in the Bekaa. growing is very important in Only 5% of holdings are larger than the central Bekaa, thanks to the 4 ha, with 49% of the total Utilized contribution of large investments Agricultural Area (UAA), while 30% and the application of modern of the UAA are larger than 10 ha production, transformation and and concentrated in the Bekaa. The marketing techniques allowing legal status and land tenures of the the development of an important holdings are distributed as follows: wine industry. Olive production

2007 2008 2009 52 800 49 900 50 000 15 750 14 500 16 000 1 800 900 2 000 8 527 913 7 439 430 700 is very important in Koura, in

92% of agricultural holders are South Lebanon and in Hasbaya. single holdings operating their lands While apricots are one of the main individually specialties of northern Bekaa; fruit 7% of agricultural holders trees (apples, cherries, peaches) are are operating their lands in a concentrated on the western slopes partnership with others of the Mount-Lebanon chain. 83% of holders own their lands (corresponding to 68% of total Animal production is mainly UAA) concentrated in the Bekaa Plateau 8% of holders are still in a transitory and concerns ovine and caprine (heritage) process (corresponding to livelihood. Sheep production is 7% of total UAA) almost exclusive to the Bekaa,

0 1 156 100 500 6% lands are operated through historical birthplace of the local rental (corresponding to 18% of total “Awassi” breed. Goats are found UAA) almost everywhere, feeding in 0

2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 43 600 500 45 808 46 620 49 52 900 7 000 11 500 13 911 12 590 14 15 900 2 000 921 1 989 810 900 030 879 846 930 550 900 1 050 000 8 738 11 165 9 814 503 839 096 26 632 28 705 27 298 301 553 401 25 737 222 213 70 981 69 868 71 900 571 733 605 800 780 73 886 15 292 155 16 426 890 500 17 113 763 810 091 11 942 16 940 19 201 564 738 934 20 132 136 535 4 500 400 350 574 601 300 496 3 01 750 700 600 591 642 691 687 646 645 270 8 929 13 296 15 713 999 16 333 17 954 648 338 56 834 57 570 564 58 531 524 59 100 600 000

2000 40 000 8 700 2 600 900 9 447 28 487 70 661 15 205 12 945 900 7 027 10 850 55 646

4 400

k pea etables eat ches ize ves rus Fruits arse Grain arse ot Crops ot lses rley uit orghum ugar Beetugar Table 4. Area (ha) under different crops (Source: FAOSTAT) (Source: crops (ha) under different 4. Area Table Crops Wh Ba Chic Ma Veg Co Pu Fr Cit Ro Vet S S Oli

28 29 the woodlands and high altitude livelihoods and the severe for goat meat) after the global Goat production suffers from formations. Ovine production is fragmentation that woodlands, crisis related to the mad cow imports even though the demand not well developed, although some rangelands and pasture lands are disease and the new trends in food for goat meat and milk products investors are trying to put a milk witnessing because of the urban habits favouring local and organic remains large and some 10,000 value-chain into operation. sprawl, has seen herds (goats products. families have this production as their and sheep) decrease in number major source of income. The production of ruminants is and pastoralism is no longer an Some large investments have been secondary in Lebanese agriculture, important part of the rural mosaic. put into the dairy products value All the sheep and/or goat farmers with less than one agricultural In some parts of the country, chain level. Some are private with in the regions surveyed are holding in 8 being involved in mismanagement practices and several new dairy plants delivering transhumant, sharing their time animal husbandry. Cattle are mainly overgrazing have lead to the fresh and UHT milk to the Lebanese between high mountain zones in raised for milk production with deterioration of pastures and market. Other investments are public, spring and summer (from April-May the majority of the stock in large woodlands. mainly through the IFAD project till October-November) looking for farms of the Holstein breed. Sheep on the rehabilitation of the small good quality pastures. The nomadic and goats have always been an In 2003, dairy cattle, sheep and goat livestock producers in the Bekaa. system allows the children to join integral part of the rural mosaic in milk production represented 7.2% After the 2006 war, the dairy sector schools during winter, when the Lebanon. Sheep are mainly of the of the total value of the agricultural has suffered important losses, but the families move the herds to lower regional Awassi breed with local production; while meat production private sector has managed to recover altitudes. During the spring and characteristics, and goats are mainly did not exceed 3.9%. Despite this and rehabilitate the affected plants. summer, at the end of the school of the local Baladi breed, and the production being secondary, it Nowadays, in integrated circuits, years, sons and daughters help their Damascus or Shami breed. remains very important, mainly milk is commercialized through parents in the different tasks related Both sheep and goats are managed when it comes to goats and sheep three main channels: independent to their herds and small farms. Even under nomadic and semi-nomadic largely because of their strong milk-men (the hallabas), milk-men teenagers and young adults stay systems, feeding on native pastures, ability to utilize pasture and fallow appointed by the dairy plants and with their families and frequently woodland species and crop residues. lands within the holdings or at the collection centres, both public, inherit the job from their parents. They are distributed all over landscape level. currently facing financial and The nomadic way of living and the Lebanon with a high concentration technical problems while private freedom of the wilderness run in the in the Bekaa Valley. The economic The local production of sheep and plants are functioning well. blood and cannot be easily changed and heritage importance of these goat meat suits the requirements into a sedentary way of living. The breeds, both at the community and of the traditional Lebanese diet. Cattle meat production remains very provision of the bare necessities and national levels contribute to their However, despite the important limited, with livestock imported a slight improvement in the quality conservation, and reduce the risk contribution to the Lebanese diet from different countries (mainly EU) of livelihoods would certainly of losing them through breeding and cuisine, the demand on sheep and slaughtered in Lebanon. Such preserve this family structure and or replacement programs. The and goat meat has been decreasing production provided around 60% this traditional system. wild goat that used to roam in the during the past few decades, mainly of the bovine meat in 2002. High Lebanese mountains has disappeared because of the development of quality meat is mainly imported and is thought to be extinct. malls and supermarkets and the chilled or frozen. The number of availability of cheaper imported sheep is estimated 330,000 in 2009 Changes in land use practices, meat. The demand has witnessed a and the number of goats reached the shifting from rural to urban slight increase again (particularly 450,000 in 2009.

30 31 32 33 Rosine Zahlaoui has been struggling milk glass (lattimo), and imitation the traditional food farming systems, 8. CULTURE & for decades to compile a list of local gemstones made of glass. Murano with the result that wheat and other TRADITION artisans pursuing an artwork that is Island has been a commercial port as foods had to be imported and were authentic and rooted in the region. far back as the 7th century. Over the sold to the very farmers who had The city’s culture has long revolved Among the many artists that decades, Murano glassblowers and once grown them as staples. around its signature crop, the grape, have their workshop in the city, artisans have moved and setup shop and its products, wine and arak. Murano glass artisans and weavers elsewhere, such as Zahle that boasts With both the Ottoman War and Arak, in particular, has traditionally make their way through collective a local production. World War I taking their tolls, the been served in cafés any time of exhibitions and fairs. Nadim & silk-for-food trade network came the day. Together with the town’s Bianca Tahtouh are Murano glass unravelled. The resulting tragedy gorgeous natural settings, it might specialists. The tradition of Murano of food insecurity is the reason have provided with inspiration glass making is a heritage from Italy. that some fifteen million people of many of the fifty poets and writers Indeed, in Fakhr ad Din II times, Lebanese descent now live beyond who were born Zahle over the past Mount Lebanon had strong tight Lebanon’s borders, and only five century, leading to its reputation with Italy explaining in some ways million Lebanese remain in their as “the City of Wine and Poetry”. the. native land. A graceful personification of this nickname stands at the town’s Fakhr ad Din II enhanced Lebanon’s In November 1914, the Ottoman entrance: a statue of Erato, the Muse military and economic development Empire participated in World War I of love poetry, holding a bunch of with the objective of liberating alongside with Germany, disrupting grapes. the country. He was remarkably the trade of silk to France and tolerant and tried to amalgamate leading the Ottomans to mandate Artisans: handicrafts gems the different religious groups into a that every Lebanese farmer who united Lebanese community. For the could carry a gun join the army. sake of independence, he concluded Hundreds of thousands of Lebanese a secret agreement with Ferdinand men and boys were forced to leave I, Duke of Tuscany in Italy, with the Silk mills… the mulberry groves and remnant two parties pledging to support each grain fields, though roughly a fifth other against the Ottomans. As the number of silk mills in the of them deserted their compulsory Fakhr ad Din II initiated many region increased up through 1885, military service and fled the country. strategies to modernize the country Lebanon began to gain half of its The shortage of silk leaf harvesters by inviting architects, irrigation gross national product from the alone would have thrown the engineers and agricultural experts silk trade and was therefore able to country into an economic crisis, but from Italy to work in Lebanon. purchase two-thirds of the bulgur, blockades also prevented the women flour, dried legumes, and dairy who worked in the silk factories Murano glass artisans refined products its peasants consumed from getting their products to high- technologies such as crystalline from Syria, Turkey, and even North end French markets, and the silk glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass African countries. All this required trade collapsed. With a locust plague with threads of gold (aventurine), the planting of large areas of devastating the remaining cereal multicolored glass (millefiori), mulberry trees, thereby displacing fields in the summer of 1915 and no

34 35 money to purchase staple foods from ivory, glass, jewelry and metal work. Old houses, red rooftops, stone and a cowshed below or adjoined to Syria or Africa, the food security of Tyre was a flourishing commercial mansions, green hills overlooking the house, the animals’ shelter. the Lebanese peasantry evaporated center famed for its purple dye Berdwani river, all architectural before their eyes. They were left extracted from the mollusc murex, a elements of the city are enhanced in Georgette Zaatar’s goal is to pay with only locust-damaged mulberry marine snail still living along Tyre’s her stunning paintings. tribute to the rural house that is built leaves, which silkworms can eat but shores. Tyre produced also rich Georgette works also ‘for the with a mixture of clay and straw. humans cannot. The mulberries silken garments that were exported memory of my city and to pass down The wet mixture is poured into a themselves had little market, and throughout the Mediterranean to generations our cultural and mould to obtain a sun-dried brick. their food value did not sustain Basin. architectural heritage so it doesn’t The earth serves as a mortar sealing. many local families. get lost’. The latter is used as the first filler Painting Zahle for decades to walls. The second filler is made Lebanon has a long tradition of silk The traditional rural Lebanese of marl and straw. A coat of lime weaving. In Zahle, artisans work Georgette Zaatar just like many local house consists of three rooms: a dar with salt and oil fixes the color and specific designs that are passed down painters is found of her city that she (living-room), the khazneh or beyt removes insects. for generations. Artisan Weavers is depicts so beautifully in her artwork. el mouneh (food stocking chamber) the revival of that family tradition, infusing it with new life, new designs and modern manufacturing techniques.

Around 4000 BC, the Canaanites lived in Lebanon. The Greeks named the Phoenicians “red” referring to the purple dye extracted from murex seashells, a hallmark of the Phoenicians. The Phoenicians were skilled people who developed the first phonetic alphabet. They were accomplished sailors who travelled widely, trading local goods such as cedar timber and murex with Egypt and other Mediterranean countries, including those of Europe. The Phoenicians established strong ties with Egypt where tribute in the form of precious cedar wood was paid to the Pharaohs. The Phoenicians dominated the Mediterranean Sea trade for over 500 years excelling in the production of textiles, carved

36 37 Heritage Museum – Feyrouz is in perfect harmony with its Silk Road. There are several temples stones from the ancient world. Chamoun environment, vineyards and a green to visit within the complex: The As the vast temple complex plateau. Temple of Baal/Jupiter situated upon expanded throughout Roman times, In the outskirts, a family run ’20. Noah, a man of the soil, the massive stone blocks known as the Temple of Bacchus (Dionysus museum gathers a collection of proceeded to plant a vineyard. 21. the Trilithon, the Temple of Bacchus for the Greeks), the God of wine traditional objects and elements When he drank some of its wine, he and the circular temple of Venus. and a patron deity of agriculture of Zahle’s lifestyle. This museum became drunk and lay uncovered On a nearby hill, lies a fourth temple and theater, was constructed in located on the ground floor of a inside his tent. 22. Ham, the father dedicated to Mercury. the middle of the 2nd century BC. private house, is open to the public of Canaan, saw his father naked and The golden age of Roman building The 2484 square meter temple is and the grandson of the owner tours told his two brothers outside. 23. But at Baalbek began in 15 B.C. when the world’s best-preserved Roman visitors and students explaining Shem and Japheth took a garment Octavianus Augustus (27 B.C-14 temple. them the purpose of the museum as and laid it across their shoulders; then A.D) settled a legion. The sloping The Arabs changed the name of the well the significance of the objects they walked in backward and covered terrain involved the construction fortified city to al-Qala‘ (the fort) exhibited. Chamoun’s father was a their father’s naked body. Their faces of retaining walls that are built with before a second bloody sack took famous Zahle painter. The family were turned the other way so that monoliths of 400 tons. The western, place in 748. In 1759, the city was has dedicated generations to arts they would not see their father naked.’ tallest retaining wall has a second badly shaken by an earthquake that and opened up this private museum (Genesis 9, Old Testament). course of monoliths with the famous led to the irreversible destruction of in order to display food utensils “trilithon”; a row of three stones each parts of the Roman complex. from Lebanese heritage, Ottoman The most impressive Acropolis in the weighing 1000 tons, the largest cut- arms, old paintings depicting the world: Baalbek Temples story of the region as well as rare manuscripts gathered through the Perched atop a high point in generations. the fertile Bekaa valley with an expansive view over the plateau, Noah’s Tomb the temple complex of Baalbek is arguably the most enigmatic The tomb of Noah is a long structure holy place of ancient times. The seemingly part of an aqueduct. It sprawling complex is a profusion of extends about sixty feet the stature temples and platforms filled with a of Noah according to Oriental stunning line of fallen columns and tradition. sculptures, and stone dimensions It consists of a tombstone. At that puzzle archaeologists and the time of the ottomans, Turks engineers even today. The pretended that Noah is really buried Phoenician temple of Baalbek dates there. Nebbi-Noah is the sepulchre back to 2000 B.C. and is dedicated it of the great patriarch. to Sun-God Shamash-Baal-Haddad later known as Helios and Jupiter In the Old Testament, Genesis 9, (Aramean deity of lightning and there is a clear reference to wine. thunder). It was an important city Noah’s tomb established in Zahle at the time at the crossroads of the

38 39 Anjar, a commercial city at from the Litani river have made crossroads of the Silk Road… Anjar and its surroundings, the most fertile place in the country, Anjar is one of the most recent The sources are also what gave the archaeological sites in Lebanon and city its name. “Anjar”, comes from covers one period of the country’s “Ain Gerrha,” “the source of Gerrha”, history: The Umayyad. Anjar was the name of an ancient city founded an important commercial center during Hellenistic times. under, the Umayyads, one of the The site features two palaces, a most important Muslin dynasties, mosque and a standard designed who ruled between 660 and 750 A.D. public bath consisting of a square- Their reign was short lived (pushed hall vestibule supported by two by the Abbasids, they relocated to arcades made of three arches each, Spain) yet they left in Anjar some and three separate rooms for steam impressive ruins, only recently baths. discovered. Anjar is a perfect example of the Aside for its commercial status, the typical Umayyad architecture vicinity of spurting springs, coming consisting of a triple arcade window on the upper façade and masonry with alternating layer of stone and brick-tile. The mosque’s design indicates that the Caliph had his own private access while two distinct entrances are public. A second palace is composed of a square courtyard and five rooms.

In 744 A.D, the city was destroyed by Marwan II after defeating Ibrahim, Al-Walid’s son. Anjar was sacked and fell into oblivion. Later on, the area was covered by vast swamps and it was not until the country’s Independence that the General Direction of Antiquities decided to restore and unveil its forgotten treasures. Lebanon recovered a significant part of its history and a masterpiece of Ummayad architecture.

40 41 Terbol Museum, showcasing Selim the 1st, villagers had the were distributed to the family objects, food and other useful traditional Lebanese architecture ingenious idea to build a double and neighbours. That way people elements. The ‘khrestane’ is a framed partition with a hole at the top to endured this unfair arbitrary tax cupboard dug in the wall with two Terbol museum is located in the hide grain. The Ottoman troops while preventing themselves from wooden doors. Bekaa Plateau, 20 kilometers extorted the harvest causing hunger starvation. The Terbol Museum away from Zahle. The museum is among the rural population. To reconstitutes this cereal hole. It can Niha, the ancient Phoenician an old traditional farmer house survive, farmers also hid cereals be visited during summer (terbol@ Temple transformed into a museum in in the hole that they retrieved, fnp.org.lb). At 10 kms from Zahle, Niha hosts an order to explain the lifestyle of the according to their necessities, by In the Lebanese traditional house, ancient Phoenician Temple for the Lebanese during the 19th and early virtues of a hole dug at the base. the inhabitants dug in the walls God Hadaraniss as well as a smaller 20th century. Soldiers took grains of silos without ‘yuk’ to store furniture. The ‘yuk’ worship for the Goddess of Water. During the Ottoman occupation suspecting that the harvest was in is a niche for mattresses, used as a (1516-1918), starting with Sultan fact hidden within walls. Grains bed. Other niches served for storing

42 43 and climate, which in turn impact 9. ECONOMY agricultural products that are available. Identifiable gastronomic Zahle gastronomy identity is characteristics of Zahle condense the strongly related to the agricultural multiple influences of the region at environment of the city. Located in the crossroads of many countries. the middle of the Bekaa valley, Zahle During the 20th Century, artisan has forged within decades a strong producers with traditional identity and has benefited from techniques grew fast in a demanding the favourable surrounding that market. Until now and due to the facilitates the use of a large amount resurgence in demand for quality of different crops. products made by time-honoured The dominant elements in the methods, Zahle farmers have been identity and success of Zahle’s able to maintain their culinary gastronomy include geography heritage.

44 45 Wheat… The process of burgul lasts several and chickpeas from which they days. had made hummus over countless Lebanon was the Breadbasket of According to a study by Slow Food centuries. the Roman Empire. Today, wheat Foundation for Biodiversity, Burgul production does not even meet might have been introduced to The Bekaa covers an area of 428,000 the country’s local demand. The Lebanon by Kurdish tribes in the hectares, 42% of Lebanon’s total area. salamouni (Triticum aestivum L. 12th century. Its arable land is important for the var. Salamouni) is tender wheat, the The grading of the wheat is made country as mountains make up most perfect flour for bread-making. The with a sieve to obtain coarse burgul of the country. three indigenous wheat are perfect (jachich - khichin), fine (burgul) for burgul making: haramuni, and very fine (sraysira). It is The Berdawni has always been salamouni and breiji. This wheat ground to produce flour (bsisse). of central interest for mills that might have been cultivated for over Semolinas, named smid (coarse) would install by the river in order 5000 years in Lebanon. It is the and firkha (fine) made of wheat are to ground their wheat. Indeed, base of burgul, flour, semolina and key ingredients in the preparation thanks to water mills would produce freeke. The crop is concentrated in of cake shops such the maamoul. huge amounts of flour and burgul. the Bekaa Valley and is harvested The burghul does not appear in the Nowadays, bakeries represent a large in June and July. At the end of the famous writings of the Baghdadi percentage of the local industry. It is summer season, rooftops of Zahle gastronome Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq. strongly related to local mills that are are lined up with white sheets where Al-Warraq wrote in the 10th century The harvest depends on regions but quite influent in the city. Mills for burgul and kishk is prepared in the first known Arab cookbook usually takes place at the beginning grains, flour, burgul are a solid asset the city for centuries. The wheat is ‘The book of dishes’ (El Kitab of May. for the city. boiled in large pots, dried in the sun El Tabikh). It is only in the 11th The particularity of Zahle’s economy and milled. Before milling process, century, that the Turkish or Persian Beginning in the 1860s, when is that it relies essentially on dried seeds are moistened again and term starts appearing in recipes. It Napoleon III had landed six small businesses employing a few rubbed to remove the outer bran was commonly used throughout thousand troops on the Lebanese employees. Artisan producers, food layer. The process allows transfer of the Ottoman Empire. In Lebanon, coast to intervene in sectarian processing family-owned companies vitamins and minerals from outer housewives would make it in-house. disputes on the side of Christians. directly benefit from locally grown bran layer into the seed. The initial They crushed the wheat in the The French encouraged Maronite products. boiling provides biological stability jaroush (two piled stones) operated Christians of highlands and valleys In the region, Zahle is a major trade to milled product allowing safe by a wooden pestle. to abandon their subsistence crops center with strong retail turnover. storage for long periods and shorter in favour of growing mulberry trees The tourism industry counting on cooking time. The freeke is a green picked wheat for silk production. Spurred on food heritage culture and beautiful roasted in straw fire. The term by their own merchant class, the sceneries is a strong income to The burgul, stewed and drained originates from ‘faraka’, or moving small shareholders in the Mount the city. As a main tourism and wheat, then sun-dried, cleaned and referring to the fact that grains are Lebanon highlands and the Bekaa hospitable hub, Zahle supports crushed, is a staple ingredient of removed from sheaves of wheat. Valley had planted nearly half of all contemporary accommodation such Lebanese dishes. The fine wheat The wheat picked before maturity their arable lands in mulberry trees, as artisan guesthouses and auberges is used in the preparation of two is sun-dried, mixed in the straw of forsaking the wheat grains that had that fit modern demand. national dishes: kebbe and tabboule. barley and burnt on the ground. offered them bulgur for tabboule Gastronomy is one of the elements

46 47 incorporated in a new concept - statistics. The most exported of cultural heritage and cultural commodity was potato tourism, driven by growing trends (USD 46 000 000) followed by apple of a well-being lifestyle, authenticity, (USD 41 000 000), orange (USD 27 environmental protection and 000 000), banana (USD 23 000 000) the need to have a high-quality and grapes (USD 11 000 000). experience. Tourists that flock to Citrus and bananas are not grown Zahle have a strong desire for foods in the Bekaa, yet the main exporters that emphasise the heritage and work in the Bekaa region. culture of the city stimulating the Agriculture revenues in total city lume lume preservation of traditional forms of 8% 4% 23% 4% 10% 15% 8% 10% 3% 13% 3% 100% agriculture and cultural heritage. income During Lent, Christians eat meatless dishes and at Barbara, they eat a Bekaa valley is Lebanon’s most Vo variety of wheat-based dishes. important farming region around 40% of households run small family

Gastronomy, as a tourist resource, generates rural development by farms (Global eye, 2006). increasing rural revenue sources and improves income levels and Food industries employment of local labour.

The main concentration of food

industries are located in Zahle 19 9 53 9 23 34 18 24 6 29 6 230 Figures of Agriculture surface and

encompassing wineries, Bakeries, companies ber of revenues from agriculture dairy, poultry and meat and agro- food processing companies. The total agriculture surface in Lebanon is 248 000 Hectares out Schools, training, technical Num of which 42 % are generated in the schools, universities valley - 104 160 Hectares. Farming in the Bekka Valley is a lifestyle There are several schools and for many families and agricultural universities with a special ‘food products generate considerable

related’ curriculum. revenues for many. At A.U.L in Chtoura, Mr Itab Awass

is the head professor for the food

Exports from the Bekaa Valley section. In Zahle, the Catholic School of Dar

Agriculture exports from Bekaa

El Sadaka has a food section. valley during 2011 is around USD Université la Sagesse has a ater

192 000 000 according to CCIAZ - Production oil live airy products airy lcohol drinks lcohol OTAL OTAL egetables and Fruits conservation Fruits and egetables

partnership with the University of oasters akeries ggs and poultry and ggs rinting Press rinting ME’s Segment P B V S D O R E A W T Packaging Chamber of Commerce, Industry Lausanne, famed for its hospitality Zahle the (2010) CCIA at registered typeIndustries of Table: and Agriculture of Zahle and Bekaa section.

48 49 carry an agricultural programme employ approximately in high attract daily a reasonable number of whereby young people are taught season some 40 people, cooks, customers. how to grow herbs, vegetable and waiters etc… Trout Culture fruit that are used afterwards in City restaurants and snacks buy jams, jellies or processed food. locally produced food and try as Freshwater aquaculture has been NGOs own their workshop within much as possible to source in the practiced since the 1930s with over their H.Q. In case of increased perimeter of the city. The advantages 90% dedicated to rainbow trout, demand, Ayam el Raja is able to call are low cost transport, fresh produce Onchorhyncus mykiss. They were after former people trained by the and also the sustainability of the grown in semi-intensive growing NGOs and can take on buffets and food chain maintaining income systems introduced in 1958. There ceremonies up to 300 hosts. for small farmers and little-know are currently about 150 local fish Both NGOs train every year around producers. In many restaurants, farms. Tilapia farming was recently 50 young people sharing with them there is a search for a direct contact tried out through several private recipes, love for food and respect with farmers, bakers, producers and initiatives. Aquaculture is mainly for heritage within a framework of a strong will to create a network practiced in the Bekaa plateau. sustainable and locavore food. in the region in order to establish In 1960 the Ministry of Agriculture As a commitment if Zahle gains a solid business network based on (MOA) established the Anjar Center recognition and becomes member respect and good quality products. for Aquaculture in the Bekaa area to of ‘Creative Cities Network’, the From bread to hommos, wine and develop the sector and a new center city intends to focus on the food arak to poultry, restaurant food was established in Hermel for trout apprenticeship together with purchasers work with local suppliers production. The Center started as a national chefs by means of opening and promote the region’s food with hatchery service producing rainbow up a special training programmes a locavore feel of being useful to trout fingerlings and distributing whereby local and national food the community and spreading out them free of charge to growers would be taught to younger the agricultural and cultural food to encourage intensive and semi generations. heritage to customers, local or intensive growing of the species. Two outstanding NGOs, Ayam el international. Raja founded by Fadia Abou Dib and Restaurant activities and how much Unfortunately, not all ingredients Aquaculture production in 2003 Rayon d’Espoir work with disabled it impacts on the local economy mandatory to produce local and was 600 tonnes, in 2010 estimation youngsters. They have developed international food is available in was 1, 100 tonnes. In 2003, the total a full range of preserved items According to the Ministry of the Bekaa and to a bigger extent in amount of imported fish, alive, fresh and freshly prepared food stored Tourism, the figures in 2012 of Lebanon. or frozen (including crustaceans and in freezer and sold at premises restaurants and snacks in Zahle These restaurants, whose income molluscs) amounted to about 12, and in supermarkets. Recipes are reach 200 establishments in the figures are impossible to get from 000 tonnes at an approximate value traditional Lebanese cuisine and city itself. Venues with a surface of all institutions, contribute widely of USD 30 million. This indicates young people are taught how to less than 20 sqm are not taken into to the local economy of the city by that there is a strong potential for prepare this food in order to pass account. The figure is considered as ensuring work to all actors in the development in the aquaculture down onto them this tradition and large for a city located hinterland, agricultural and hospitality sector. sector. to train them to work in restaurants not coastal. Establishments smaller than 20 The oldest farm was established in or at catering shops. Both NGOs These 200 restaurants and snacks sqm are numerous and tiny snacks 1965 in the Hermel area. However,

50 51 80% are in Hermel-North Bekaa, at (Hypophthalmichthys molitrix), a good potential and an additional a total value of USD 3.7 million and mangrove red snapper (Lutjanus food source if higher production can an estimated average yield of 10-12 argentimaculatus), nomadic be attained. This must be coupled tonnes. Most of the farms are artisan jellyfish (Rhopilema nomadica), with marketing strategies and family-owned businesses, small to narrow-barred Spanish mackerel advertising. This is particularly the medium in size. 47% are small-scale (Scomberomorus commerson) case compared with the volume of farms (surface area less than 500 and obtuse barracuda (Sphyraena imported meat quantities in general m2), 38% are medium sized (501 – 1 obtusata). Some were introduced and fish in particular. 500 m2) and 15% are large (over 1 from other countries/regions such as 500 m2). Most farmers own their the Red Sea (Rhopilema nomadica, Several restaurants, particularly raceways or ponds. Scomberomorus commerson). in the Bekaa Valley, have live tout The total fish production (capture Others were introduced for sports holding raceways, so customers can and aquaculture) accounts for less purposes in addition to aquaculture select the fish that is then prepared. than 27% of local consumption. (Salvelinus fontinalis). Other Around 60 restaurants in Anjar and Aquaculture contributes about 10% species were introduced to control Hermel areas serve fresh trout on of local production and 3% of local different pests, for example snails their menus. Anjar is considered fish consumption. There are around (Cyprinus carpio), mosquitoes a tourist area where visitors from 30 restaurant owners who invest (Gambusia affinis) and weed nearby villages, Beirut and other in their aquaculture enterprise and (Hypophthalmichthys molitrix). cities come for trout meals and enjoy depend on it for their living. the area with its landscape and water sites. Contribution to local economy Lebanon has 15 permanent short Recent investments have been made flowing rivers. Only Nahr Il-Kabir After crop production, aquaculture in the Anjar and Hermel areas to Al Janoubi is a relatively long river is the second main economic activity support for tourist activities such (571 km). Three flowing rivers (Assi of the Hermel, Yammoune and Anjar as the emergence of new hotels 46 km, Litani 160 km, and Hasbani most of the farms (about 41%) areas and constitutes an income (2 hotels, one in Anjar and one in 21 km) are in the interior planes generating activity linked especially were established during the years Hermel area) and enlarging and limited by Mount Lebanon from with restaurants and tourism in the 1985-1990, mainly in the Anjar and maintaining existing restaurants. west side and by Anti-Lebanon on areas. Restaurants usually serve trout Hermel areas and a few in Zahle. the east side. As a result, there are at the table at a price The industry accounts for 150 farms five hydrographical regions where of USD 10/kg. Trout distributed mainly in the Bekaa aquaculture is practiced. cooking and meals are area along the river Assi with some considered a specialty smaller ones along the northern In addition to endemic trouts, for the Hermel and coast. other species have been introduced Anjar communities. such as brown trout (Salmo trutta However, this source of The production system used is fario), brook trout (Salvelinus fish is growing and is mostly semi-intensive. The average fontinalis), common carp increasingly becoming annual production of trout is around (Cyprinus carpio ), mosquito fish known to the Lebanese 1,100 tonnes produced by 150 farms, (Gambusia affinis), silver carp consumer. It represents

52 53 orchards dot the town’s upper From Sannine Mountain, the river was the right place for picnics when 10. GASTRONOMY hillsides, while potatoes and leafy gushes out and reaches the city of the sun of the Bekaa is at its peak. vegetables are cultivated in the Zahle in the Bekaa plain. A pleasant The simple cafés were transformed Zahle is located in the midst of plain. Livestock is also an important atmosphere of running water, poetry into restaurants where the mezze one of the most fertile valleys in resource, with trout fisheries on and the scent of baked bread have or starters are a prelude to a main the Middle East. The agricultural the upper course of the Berdawni made Wadi el Arayesh a legendary course of grilled tender meat. activities impact positively on the river and poultry farms on the place. All that is accompanied by the gastronomy of the city. Hence, the surrounding hills. Surprisingly, few restaurants are refreshing local wine or arak: the rich production provides the raw It only opens when spring called casinos, not that there’re strong alcoholic drink made of material to a cuisine made of natural announces its warm days. The gambling rooms but because they grapes and a hint of anise seeds at and fresh ingredients combined gorge or Wadi el Arayesh offers are by the water! It’s said that one distillation. together into tasty dishes. a refreshing break in its many hundred years ago, there were cafés When the meal is over, plates of the In addition to vineyards, cherry, restaurants of outdoor terraces by by the river under the tall shading best season’s fruits are offered on the pomegranate, plum and mulberry the Berdawni riverbanks. trees. At the same time, the Wadi table.

54 55 The entrance of the Wadi is through suits vegetarians and meat-eaters an open-air alley along the Berdawni alike. River where souvenir shops and children’s gadgets as well as small Zahle is famed for hosting the early recreational space are found. But the days of modern ‘mezze table’. In the unique Zahle specialty is the variety 20s, the region’s locals would gather of nougat and caramelized nuts. along the Berdawni river bringing They are displayed inside vendors’ in typical dishes and sharing their cars protected by a glass looking so food and heritage in a picnic style irresistible! setting. It was only in the late 50s, Before leaving the Wadi, a local ice that restaurants started lining along cream is always a must. The Wadi the river while serving ‘mezze meals’. is overwhelming with its culinary Mezze is usually eaten at restaurants tradition and cool atmosphere. on a day off, a housewife would rarely cook a whole set of mezze at Zahle, homeland of the mezze home. culture Mezze is usually an elaborate spread Mezze refers to the myriad of fifty to sixty hors d’oeuvres, little hors d’oeuvres of the traditional bits of tasty treats to please the Mediterranean diet. First coined palate. People laze for hours nibbling by Genoese spice traders, Greeks, the different dishes that are served Turkish, Persians and Arabs adopted in stages. The cold vegetable dishes, this word reflecting the multicultural dips and salads are served first, origins of this inviting cuisine. The followed by hot dishes and main raw Arabic word might come from the or charcoal grilled meats. Most of Persian ‘maza’ meaning ‘relish’ and dishes are generally eaten with large ‘t a s t e’. pita bread sometimes made on the Mezze is a selection of small dishes premises on a saj (a concave oven served as appetizer courses paired heated over charcoal or nowadays with the popular aniseed-based gas fire). Fruits accompany Turkish alcoholic drink, arak. coffee (with or without cardamom) and white coffee (boiled water In Levantine cuisines and the sprinkled with orange blossom Caucasus, cuisines of former water). Ottoman Empire, especially Aleppo mezze is served at the beginning of Zahle’s residents have widely all large-scale meals. Small dishes contributed to develop mezze. It is come hot or cold, savoury, raw or the case of the Haddad brothers. cooked. The variety of ingredients Indeed, in 1936, two Zahliot

56 57 58 59 brothers, Jamil & Selim (naze) A basic mezze table encompasses a (Armenian sausages), okra in olive (Armenian spicy beef sausage) or Haddad opened a delicatessen in plate of fresh vegetables and fresh oil, cheese rolls, spinach patties, kebbe (freshly minced lamb mixed their butchery to supply deli meat herbs, plates of fresh and mature stuffed vine leaves, fried cauliflower, with burgul – fine crushed wheat). to French soldiers. They produced cheeses, a dish of olives, pickles, wild endive with olive oil and many The latter can be eaten raw, fried pork, lamb and beef based sausages salads – tabboule (a Lebanese more. It is traditionally followed by or cooked. Dessert consists of a for the French army stationed in staple salad made of parsley, mint, main courses such as mixed chicken seasonal fruit basket and at times the Bekaa Valley. These sujuk and tomato, crushed wheat and onions) and meat meshoui (bbq), shish local loukoums (Turkish delights) makanik were then included onto and fattoush (peasant salad topped taouk (cubes of garlicky chicken stuffed in biscuits. the mezze table adding a new with fried or baked pita crumbs), skewered and flame-grilled), kafta The old popular dishes are still hot hors-d’oeuvre to the already hummus, baba ghanouj (a grilled (minced lamb meat mixed with prepared today. This is also the case extensive variety of dishes. aubergine dip), fava beans, makanik fresh parsley, onions & spices), sujuk of the kharouf mehchi (stuffed lamb with rice), the mouloukhie (Jew’s mallow) an Egyptian dish originally prepared by Jews in Aleppo, the bemieh bil zeit (okra), the kebbeh bil kishk, the kebbeh arnabiye (meatballs in tahina dip), the coussa bil Laban (zucchinis in yugurt) and stuffed vine leaves. The two key dishes are tabboule and the kebbe krass (meatballs mixed with burgul and stuffed with onion and pine nuts). Zahle is known for its malban, stuffed walnut nougat. The kourss bi samn, a sweet cookie prepared with samne hamawiye (butter originated from Hama – Syria).

Lebanese terroir remains intact is because locals and expatriates appreciate their diet more than anyone else. The variety of ingredients and the expertise pleases vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

Dishes are exquisite in precise seasons such as yugurt-based ones for the summer and awarma (preserved lamb meat) in winter. Lebanese hospitality plays an

60 61 essential role in the preservation and cooked dishes such as laban durable preserved food consumed of this tradition. Furthermore, immo (courgettes in yugurt), stuffed in autumn, winter and spring. Lebanon, situated at the crossroads vegetables (coussa mehchi, batinjein Summer is the only season when of several countries and cultures, mehchi, stuffed vine leaves, stuffed fruits, vegetables and meat are eaten was influenced by foreign cuisines cabbage…) together with fresh and fresh. September 14th, the Feast of further personalizing them by raw vegetables or in brine. In the the Cross, marks the starting day for creating a subtler taste. The beginning, dishes were limited, but the mouneh. In 326, Saint Helen, the reputation of the Lebanese expertise the figure rose quickly to over 70 mother of Constantine I, went on a in cuisine is renowned. Food lovers hors-d’oeuvres. pilgrimage from Constantinople to come from everywhere attracted to Jerusalem, searching for the cross of the unique Lebanese taste. Zahle neighbouring villages were Christ. As a way of announcing her popular arak distilleries and discovery, she ordered that wood Mezze, a lifetime experience and the walnut kebbe (kebbe bil joz). In the fires be lit along the route (aboule). pride of Zahle… Lebanese mountains, during winter, Since the 4th century, this day marks baasama was the customary ice the beginning of the mouneh in Zahle is the birthplace of the mezze cream. Following the second snow, Lebanon. experience. It is in many ways, children would pick up some fresh the democratization of Lebanese snow in bowls and mix it with grape Awarma, preserved lamb meat is rural cooking; which was till the molasses, orange blossom water quite popular in rural areas. Awarma 1920s eaten in villages only. The as well as rose water. This was the is pieces of meat mixed with fat and early days of Berdawni’s cafés saw one and only frozen dessert. When preserved in glass jars (formerly the introduction of a classic array electricity was introduced, this in terracotta). Sheep is fattened up of over 60 hors d’oeuvres. Zahle changed people’s habits. Nowadays, in summer and slaughtered at the was destined for such gatherings the classic oriental ice cream is beginning of autumn, during the because the hospitable city is made of milk and custard apple. Feast of The Cross. It is fed several situated at important crossroads. Custard apple is a fruit with a sweet times a day with barley, corn, straw, The catalyst, the Berdawni river and fragrant white flesh. Flavourful came to Zahle and the freezer was flour, vetch and bran. The male is and its banks where restaurants and fleshy, it is found in numerous introduced. The old way of making castrated to allow the production of started blooming. People came Lebanese desserts. ice cream remained the same until fat. A wise woman devotes herself from everywhere in order to spend The ice was crushed in the mortar. In the mid-1980s. Since then, electric to the feeding and well-being of the a pleasant family moment while the 1920s, shopkeepers fetched snow ice cream makers have replaced the beloved animal. It is well fed five enjoying the cool breeze of the they mixed with salt and deposited wooden tub (jurn). times a day and requires particular river. Soon, Zahle became a hub it around the central tub to cool the attention. Meals take a long time and for regional specialty dishes. Key ice. Inside, they mixed and crushed The Mouneh…an essential art of the woman has to be patient. The dishes were hommos, moutabbal, the ingredients. The Arab ice cream food preservation relationship between the custodian tabboule, fattoush, fassoulia bil zeit consisted of fresh goat’s milk, sugar, and the animal is so strong that on (green beans in olive oil), the bemie mastic, salep and orange blossom The mouneh are provisions made the day of the slaughter, she leaves bil zeit (okra), green vegetables water. Ingredients were boiled over in autumn in preparation for the house, sad. cooked and marinated in olive oil, charcoal fire, crushed and cooled winter. The objective is to transform The slaughter of the sheep is a all sorts of kebbe, lamb barbecues in the mortar. In 1948, electricity seasonal perishable food into celebration in the village. Awarma

62 63 usual base to ‘debs el kharoube’ or oil presses. Cold press insures an ‘carob molasses’ mixed with tahina is excellent conservation of the oil. a popular dessert eaten with a piece Olive oil is kept in terracotta or glass of bread. Molasses include ‘debs el jars away from light and heat. The inab’ (grapes) and ‘debs el remman’ harvested olives are preserved in (pomegranate). jars. They are often perfumed with red hot pepper, lemon, wild thyme, Vegetables preserved in salted water rosemary or garlic. Olives and olive or vinegar (kabiss) include: turnips oil last two years, until the next (lefet), carrots (jazar), cucumbers harvest. Olives fallen on the ground (khiar), eggplants (batinjein), before the harvest or darkened cauliflowers (arnabit), hot pepper are used to manufacture soap (harr) or meete (local cucumbers). (December). It is done when the oil press has completed its seasonal The most common jams are figs work. The olive tree grows on poor (tiin), apricots (michmouch), ground requiring no irrigation has a quinces (sfarjal) and apples (toufah). strong ecological value. Syrups are made of fruits and sugar: ‘charabs’ of blackberries, oranges, The local food market ward (roses) among others … Damascus rose and bitter orange Sweet tooth tree flowers are mixed with water and distilled in the still (karakeh) to While wandering in Zahle’s old city, is prepared on the same day of more milk is used. The preparation make rose water and orange blossom we come across several savoury and the slaughter. Meat is first salted requires days of kneading, sun- water to be consumed all year long. sweet shops. Among the oldest and and soaked for several hours; it is drying, and kneading again under Some fruits are dried: figs, apricots most traditional, a line-up of tasty cooked separately from the fat; then the hot summer sun. The technique (a base for ‘qamar el din’ - apricot outlets run by families. Le Salon des mixed altogether and reduced. In is passed on from mother to paste) or grapes (zbib). Dried figs are Familles and Pâtisserie Saliba are the past, awarma was preserved in daughter. a popular preserved food in Zahle. two main pastry shops preparing jars (terracotta), a vanishing craft. traditional local pastries such as Nowadays, glass is used instead of The clarified butter or samne is Olive oil is a basic ingredient in the kaak bi halib and maamoul. terracotta. obtained by churning yoghurt. Fat Lebanese diet. In alternation, every The salon of the families (salon il is separated from whey; the butter other year, harvest takes place in akilat) was the popular place for Kishk is a regional specialty. It is melts over low then high heat. October, after the first autumn rain. cakes and coffee. In Berdawni’s cafés, a dehydrated food made by the Previously, desserts were prepared Olives are picked by hand. Olives the only dessert was the ashta cream fermentation of burgul and from only with fat and sugar spread on that fall on the ground are used for with honey. The ice cream was one or several milk by-products. It is some bread. Fat (samne) is a key soap. The day of the crop, olives are offered in three flavors: milk, ashta used in multiple preparations such ingredient of many rural food. brought to the oil press (maasara) of (milk cream) and lemon. The most as soup, manouche and stews. The ‘Debs’ and concentrates (reb el the village. Formerly, a stone pulled successful ice-cream parlors, Khalaf burgul khichin (coarse) that absorbs banadoura’ - tomato purée) are a by a donkey or cow operated olive and Bou Sleiman, are still open.

64 65 Malban used to make Arabic gum and other common to stroll down the banks remember him travelling in the old Turkish sweets), all cooked in a with the family and buy these sweets city streets carrying the brass tray on Malban is the chewy, walnut- copper cauldron. produced locally. his head. stuffed treat. Malban first arrived Once the mixture is ready, the next At the Berdawni, vendors packed in Lebanon during Ottoman times, phase is to cover the ropes one at a their carts with a variety of Today, Toni Beaine has added to the spreading throughout the region and time with the cooked liquid. After caramelized nuts and sesame seeds: mixture honey as well as a variety of particularly taking root in the city of three days, this step is repeated Zahle’s favourite homemade sweets. caramelized kernel, walnuts, nougat, Zahle known for its delicious sweets. again and again – usually four times Every year early summer when chocolate with hazel nuts, pistachio, Malban is a confection made from in total – and then the ropes are the Wadi el Berdawni reopens almonds, etc. Among all that sugar with a jelly like consistency. gathered up, chopped into pieces its restaurants by the riverbanks, selection, there are two traditional It was produced in the Ottoman and sold. vendors cut nut blocks into gram- flavours. Empire as early as the 15th century. The hanging malban forms a sized portions for passers-by to taste. Malban is a must when presenting beautiful mosaic, fascinating to look Toni Beaine is the third generation Berdawni celebrated restaurants a sweet tray for engagements or at while it’s being made. to make caramelized nuts, known weddings. And the holidays just as Semsmiye. This treat is one of the Several restaurants have established wouldn’t be the same without them. Armouch nougat culinary attractions of Zahleh’s Wadi their venues by the Berdawni river. Malban is a handmade delicacy. Its el Berdawni. The Berdawni refers both to the characteristic flavour comes from Armouch is a type of nougat, a It’s said that right in the heart of that restaurants and the location in itself. the use of gum mastic - an aromatic mixture of sugar and gum mastic narrow Wadi (valley) the people These institutions have a strongly resin of the Mastic tree mainly native perfumed with rose water. The of Zahle have enjoyed their sweet rooted reputation of delivering to the Island of Chios in Greece. sweets are crunchy and usually and rejoicing way of life. According the best traditional local food in Malban resembles fruit jelly, except topped by rose petals. They are to Toni Beaine, people’s favourite the region. Casino Arabi, Casino it is traditionally made with grape much appreciated by little ones who caramel is the traditional semsmiye Nmeir, Casino Koraytem and Casino molasses, thickened with starch and eat it as an afternoon treat. It is sold prepared with toasted sesame Mhanna are some names of the flavoured with rose water, mastic or in the alleyways of the Berdawni seeds and sugar. But it seems that Berdawni’s restaurants. The latter, orange blossom water stuffed with River and in most roasteries in Zahle originally a man from Hama, Syria Casino Mhanna is one of the oldest pistachios. and throughout Lebanon. came to Berdawni to sell semsmiye and fanciest. The Mhanna family The process requires a lot of to locals. hails from Zahle. Micheal Mhanna patience. Sesame seeds delights, semsmiye founded the restaurant business Malban making: Use a needle, the The sweet was poured on a big in 1880. His sons Jean Georges first step is to thread walnuts on to a A very popular and genuine local round yellow brass tray. The and Joseph took over, and later the rope which is about 125-200 cm in delight is sesame seeds roll made travelling vendor would carry it on third generation with Michel and length, keeping 10 cm between each with nuts such as cashew, peanuts, his head where it rested on a small Elie expanded the business and walnut. This step alone can take 15 pistachio, almonds, sesame seeds round tara, a hollowed cushion moved to Beirut where they opened days. and sometimes with red rose petals of head size, meant to reduce the their second Lebanese restaurant The next step is to make the liquid separately mixed with honey and tray weight. In his other hand, he in Antelias and a third branch mixture that coats the walnuts gum mastic. On the banks of river carried a tall tripod on top of which by the sea in Amchit, a Lebanese and creates the chewy texture. The Berdawni, for decades vendors are he used to put down the tray. Many and seafood restaurant. Nayla and mixture is made from flour, sugar used to selling and adapting recipes Zahliots knew Mansour, a Lebanese Jean are the fourth generation in and mastic (a type of plant resin to the taste of their clients. It’s semsmiye vendor. They still vividly the family business, following the

66 67 footsteps of their forefathers. The of Zahle runs maintenance works whereby the chicken marinates in back home his knowledge and Berdawni river has always been a every year before the summer season a garlicky sauce. It is necessary to interest into a pocket venue that he place to visit in Lebanon, it has been as well as the restaurants and cafes marinate the chicken overnight as it runs on is own with taste and a keen an attraction for both Lebanese owners also renovate and maintain soaks with garlic and spicy flavours. desire to produce quality sandwiches citizens and tourists coming from their restaurants on their own. Kafta a mix of lamb and beef meat with savoury homemade sauces. all over the world and that’s why The Berdawni river is a historical with parsley, onion and all spice is a my family choose it to settle its place, it has always been a major minced meat much appreciated. Coffee & cafés restaurant. Casino Mhanna serves tourist and culinary site due to its a variety of Lebanese dishes. An traditional atmosphere. It attracts At Barbecue Massaad or Mazaj, On both banks of the Berdawni river, extended menu with over 65 dishes everyone, families, teenagers, skewers are freshly prepared on the there has always been an ancestral in addition to different kinds of tourists, couples, everyone enjoys premises on a daily basis. Restaurant tradition of cafés and small locations main dishes such as grilled meat, the nature, have lunch or dinner in Hana Choueiri is a popular spot whereby residents would meet in the shish taouk, kafta, frogs, birds, etc... one of the restaurants by the river has some of the best grilled chicken afternoon over a Turkish coffee while There’s no one single speciality of followed by a traditional ice cream in the city – juicy on the inside enjoying a shisha. Cafés still line up our restaurant, but we are known to in one of the cafes, have a walk in and crispy skin on the outside, Brazil street where people gather to have the best raw platters as well as the Berdawni alley and enjoy the the poultry is so good when bites talk about everyday life. the best birds and not to forget the beautiful weather of Zahle. are eaten with its fresh creamy Following the traces of the Silk Kebbe zehlawiye. homemade sauce. road, coffee beans were brought The Berdawni river has evolved a Lesser known yet tasty bites from Aden to the Bekaa. In Zahle, lot since the last 50 decades, it still Slightly edgy, Inns in Hoch el the most popular coffee is Arabic has its traditional atmosphere but a Zahle has a long tradition of meat Omara, is run by Dominique Coffee. Mocha is the genuine coffee lot of things has been renewed and and poultry specialties such as shish Khabbaz a globetrotter chef. From drank in the Bekaa. Mocha is a port renovated in it. The municipality taouk, an Ottoman inheritance his 30 years experience, he brought in Yemen. It is famous for being

68 69 the major marketplace for coffee Ice cream parlours resin harvested as a spice from the Khalaf and Abou Sleiman are the from the 15th century until the 17th cultivated mastic trees grown in the most famous and probably the first century. Even after other sources south of the Greek island of Chios in to make ice cream at the Berdawni. of coffee were found, Mocha beans the Aegean Sea) and fresh goat milk Known as bouza dak, the ice cream (also known as Mocha Sanani - from along with white powdered sugar. was traditionally pounded in a Sana’a) continued to be praised for mortar and poured into a central their distinctive flavour. According Berdawni ice cream is run by Walid vat. Ice cream makers used to climb to the Jesuit who sailed the Red Khalaf. The popular ice cream Lebanese mountains to fetch the Sea in 1625, Mocha was of limited parlour is an institution on the banks snow essential for preserving the ice reputation and trade but with of the Berdawni river. Traditional cream. It was mixed with salt and the Turkish assumption of power Arab cream and Western flavoured put around the wooden central vat. throughout Arabia, it has become creams are served whenever spring The traditional flavor was made the major city under Turkish season is back. Real fruits and an with fresh goat milk, salep (a domination. amazing tasty plain (milk) cream is a thickening agent), sugar and mastic. This traditional beverage has must-eat. Walid Khalaf remembers that it appeared in the Bekaa amongst the The Berdawni River traverses Zahle, was his father Khalil who learned ‘achair’ (Arabs) and is still trendy located in the heart of the Bekaa the making from Anisseh, his own nowadays. Coffee Adane – from valley. It gushes out from Mount mother. But when an Italian pilot Aden, as it’s commonly named Sannine and reaches the city at – who belonged to a family of ice takes place as a ritual. Three pots of a narrow rocky gorge. There, the cream makers – arrived to Kadri three different sizes are put to boil Zahliots called it Berdawni, meaning Hotel, new recipes were introduced over charcoal fire. The biggest one a cool and fresh breeze. It’s when to Khalil. And the Khalaf specialty is over the highest fire, the medium the Bekaa sun reaches its peak that became almond ice cream. The at a lesser and the third one is used people, supplied with vegetable recipe was secretly kept for thirty for serving. Coffee is served in dishes prepared with tomato sauces years till Khalil got sick. Then, an chafe (cups without handle). The and olive oil, go to picnic by the artisan had to replace him at his brewing method is to keep over fire riverbanks. Around the mid- workshop. the pots allowing coffee to dilute 20th century, restaurants opened Khalaf – Abou Sleiman and its bitterness. Brewing takes place celebrating Zahle’s joie de vivre, Koraïtem are Berdawni’s famous ice Back in the 1940s, the regular ice during a daily process. Unlike cuisine and ice cream! cream makers. They have adopted cream treat was made of snow and Turkish coffee, Arabic coffee is made Among the many ice cream makers modern machines for hygienic exclusively with Yemenite beans. grape molasses. Electricity changed in Lebanon, Zahle remains the purposes. Walid Khalaf believes In Zahle, Kadmani sells the genuine ice cream world and specialists precursor of such a cooling sweet. that the spirit of the Berdawni is Arabic coffee and grinds it on could prepare ahead of time the When Zahliots used to come to Al the cool summer breeze and that premises. cream they could freeze. There is maï (water), or el Wadi (valley), traditions should be kept along with At Berdawani, men dressed in a long tradition of Arab-style ice seeking shelter from the heat of introducing new flavours. traditional costume serves all day cream made of salep (flour made the sun, they brought with them In the suburbs of Zahle, in Hosh Arabic coffee. They sometimes add from grinding the dried tubers of their arak, vegetables as well as el-Omara, Rafic Ata is much cardamom, a spice much appreciated the orchid genus Orchis L.), gum watermelons to cool in the Berdawni appreciated for his ashta ice cream in the Arabian Peninsula. mastic (an aromatic, ivory coloured River. available in all seasons.

70 71 The workshop/outlet has been kept for almost two weeks without operating ever since the 1960s. getting damaged. It is folded in four and stored in a plastic bag. The Bakeries and dough diameter is about 60 cm. To spread the dough, the baker uses a sort of From tannour ….to tabboune pillow (cara) to flatten the dough. The ‘handkerchief-bread’ is the In the middle of the city or the base of the lazayka. This poor man’s remote countryside, each family dessert is simple. The bread is coated baked bread once a week. In the with fat (margarine or butter) and city, the dough was kneaded and sprinkled with sugar. It is the French sent to the furn (bakery) whereas crêpe, Lebanese style. in the countryside there was a saj, a tabboune and a tannour at home Tlame is made of three flours: whole and a bakery in the village square. wheat, chickpeas and oat. Tlame is During the Epiphany, a piece of cooked in the tannour. Its diameter dough is suspended on a tree is slightly less than 20 cm and it awaiting the blessing of the Christ. is coated with olive oil spread by The dough is then used as yeast. This hand and stuck on the surface of the custom is practiced in all Christian tannour, where it swells to form air communities on September 14th, bubbles that remain after the cooling during the Feast of the Cross. of the bread. The tlame is eaten plain, stuffed with labne or cheese. It In the old days, every family owned is delicious fresh from the tannour. a tannour, a stone oven. At its core, a fire is lit with wooden sticks. The Tabboune is bread halfway between dough is stuck on the surface and pita bread and markouk. Tabboune bread is cooked fast. The opening is is a primitive oven of concave shape narrow to allow heat distribution on with a small hole to enter the bread. surfaces. The bread in the tannour Fresh yeast is made with a piece of has a peculiar taste due to its stone the dough from a previous batch. It surface. The bread is generally is sun-dried for several days, passed medium thick and made from in the sieve and stored in jars. whole-wheat flour. Korbane is traditional sweet bread The markouk or ‘handkerchief- used by the Greek-Orthodox bread’ is cooked on the saj. There are community. Traditionally, the body two types of markouk: the labbiq, of Christ is symbolized by bread. the most perfect, and the jirmaz with This sweet brioche is stamped with some defects. The markouk can be Greek inscriptions, a translation of

72 73 ‘el massih kam’ (The Christ is risen). blossom water, flour, salep and sugar. The bread is served during mass and Another specialty is Korbane. Bread is often distributed during burial. It is served during mass and is often is rarely sold in bakeries. distributed during burial. Korbane is composed of flour, orange blossom In the past, pita bread was made water, gum mastic, sugar, baking with whole wheat. Nowadays, it is powder and water. made with white flour and cooked in the bakery. It is the perfect mezze Meshtah is another common bread bread for dipping. prepared by local bakeries. It is made of whole wheat and white flour, The bakery industry is strongly nigella seeds, sesame seeds, baking connected with the region, top cereal powder, salt and water. It is usually producer and mills have been part eaten with labne at breakfast. In the of the city’s landscape for decades. south of Lebanon, another version is Nowadays, bakeries contribute made with aniseed. largely to the local economy employing locals and using locally- Abou Elias is one of the charming sourced flour. centenary bakeries run by the same family since 1967. It boasts In Zahle, bakeries can be found its old oven remained untouched in every back street corner. Most and genuine for a century and bakeries prepare traditional Zahle scrumptious dough, the family’s specialties such as Kaak el-eid best-kept secret. (Feast cookie) made of milk, orange

74 75 Milk Production There are seasonal and spatial variations in prices. Prices are The milk production quantity is generally higher in summer time directly related to the farm size. and lower in off-season. Farms producing less than 100 kg/ day represent 78% of dairy farms. Milk production varies very They contribute to 23% of the total much with the seasons. Total milk milk produced. Most dairy farmers production in the surveyed areas rely on village milk collectors may reach 4 000 kg /day in May and “hallabas” who play the role of the 6 000 kg/day during the high season middlemen between farmers and (June-July). Milk productivity is dairy processing plants. very low; the quantity of marketable Milk is usually marketed as follows: milk over the lactation period 60% of farmers sell their milk is estimated to be around 60 kg/ to village dealers or “hallabas”; sheep and 100 kg/goat. At the end 3% sell directly to processing of the season (September-October) plants; 27% retail raw and home milk production is very low and processed milk (laban and labne), almost entirely used for domestic in villages and urban centres, using consumption or sold as a processed rudimentary utensils with poor product (labne, ghee, cheese). Most hygiene; the remaining 10% is for shepherds (70%) sell their raw milk- home consumption and retail. to-milk collectors “hallabas” at an Home processing and retail are average price of 600 LL/kg; the price being increasingly practiced in many is a little higher (800 or even 1 000 regions, either because of the lack of LL/kg) in the Bekaa because of easier milk collection facilities or because access to roads, cooling tanks and of the better prices obtained. other facilities.

Cheese in Lebanon is generally made from cow or goat milk. In the old days, each family owned a cow. 11. FARMERS Bekaa plateau farmers. They enable The animal served several purposes: the region to prosper economically cow dung served as fuel for heating, The Bekaa Valley hosts a huge and attract even more tourists. to manufacture cob and terracotta number of small-scale, artisan This sustainable system matches bricks or as natural fertilizer. Cow producers that produce authentic well with small-scale businesses provided the necessary milk for food based on heritage know- dedicated to food. However, some dairy products and helped in the how and much appreciated well- larger industries have settled in the field. Families ensured their survival processed products. These high region in order to value local food and autonomy. The typical rural quality products benefit from the engaging in a higher quality large- ‘jebne baladi’ is made from cow’s good long-lasting reputation of the scale production. milk.

76 77 Goat is also a common animal in the maturing takes four months. It is Bekaa plateau. It is popular for its a popular cheese sold locally. The nourishing milk. However, livestock goat’s milk matures in terracotta jars is sometimes feared for destructions without preservatives. The quality in fields. Indeed, goats devour tree of the jar is essential. Villages of Beit roots and often ravage the field they Chabab and Rashaya el-Foukhar graze on. A goat produces less milk are the only two villages where they compared with a cow, even though are made. Bad quality jars alter the its milk contains more important grade of the product, rendering it nutritional elements. Two essential inedible. cheeses are made with goat milk: the darfiye and the ambariss. Darfiye is Labne, a common Lebanese cheese a goat milk cheese fermented in a is either made from cow’s milk goat-skin (the darf). The procedure or for a more pronounced taste, of the goat’s slaughter defines the goat’s milk. Labne is the salty and skin quality. Only skins of mountain drained yoghurt. In the countryside, goats are used to preserve the the labne bag was hung on a tree darfiye. They are perfectly adapted shielded from the sun. To preserve to the manufacturing of this cheese. labne, it is rolled in balls, then put in This aspect contributes to making a sealed jar filled with olive oil. This the darfiye a typical cheese of the conditioning is usually made with terroir enhancing a characteristic goat’s milk. This soft white cheese is taste to the Lebanese mountain. eaten at all 3 meals. The sandwiches Goats graze at 2200 meters. The milk of school children are often made of is salted and placed in a ventilated labne, dried mint and olive oil. cave where it drains shielded from Arishe is the milk whey from which the heat. The drying depends on the one can make ricotta cheese. 5 kg of degree of maturing, generally one whole milk makes 450 g arishe. The month. This cheese is eaten in its milk whey is removed at the end of regional production. It is made at the the production process of the ‘jebne end of the summer. This traditional, baladi.’ It is boiled and removed once lost and found again cheese, is being hardened. Arishe is best eaten with introduced again and is popular forest honey. among gourmets. Jebne baladi is the most common The aambariss or serdale is the other cheese. The milk is placed over Lebanese goat cheese. ‘Aambariss’ in heat between 65°C and 72°C for 20 the Bekaa and ‘serdale’ in the Chouf minutes. It is then placed in a bowl refer to the same product. It is made where the temperature is stabilized from May through August, and the to 44°C. The rennet is added and

78 79 temperature is maintained for 10 > Shanklich salad Goat and ovine livestock of mixed making flavourful cheese and minutes. For 50 kg, 2 g rennet is *Crumble the cheese over a serving vocation, meat and milk, make a dairy by-products. enough. Then, the milk is left to cool plate. vertical transhumance according in a bowl where it curdles. The liquid *Thinly chop the onion. to seasons: summer in mountains, Dairy farms: the cult of dairy part is removed, while the solid stays *Dice the tomato. winter on the coast. products at the bottom. The liquid part is used *Spread the onion and the tomato to make arishe and the solid part, over the cheese. The Milky Way: Taanayel Convent Dairy farming is a tradition in cheese. The solid part is shaped in *Drizzle with olive oil 30 minutes the Bekaa as sheep, cow and goat balls of 150 g each. Molded by hand, before serving. In the heart of the Bekaa Valley, breeding is part of the regional it is left on a tray to harden outdoors. *Serve at room temperature. Lebanon lies Taanayel, the convent heritage. The cheese, once cooled and dried, Serves 6 and the Jesuit farm whose history is coated with salt and kept in the 1 shanklich dates back to 1833. Chtoura, the first main city of the refrigerator. Without preservatives, it 1 medium-size onion Bekaa, is famed for its numerous must be consumed within four days. 1 medium-size tomato Back then, three French Jesuits dairies. Badia Massabni & Rayess, 3 tablespoons olive oil settle in the Bekaa Valley. After Jarjoura, Hadwane or Massabki are Shanklich is a typical Bekaa cheese the massacres of 1860, in order to among the dozens of dairy outlets shaped in ball, dried outdoors and compensate the ‘blood shed’ the that sell homemade dairy by- matured for several days or weeks. Sheep livestock is important in Ottomans conceded to the Jesuits products and preserved food. They Molds are cut off, it is shaped and Lebanon. Sheep, generally ‘awassi’, 230 hectares of what used to be all line up the main road leading to coated with wild herbs. Some supply wool for the manufacturing swamps. Generations of priests have Zahle. shanklich are made salt free, with of clothes and carpet. Meat is also worked on the land, grown orchards, spices, plain or coated with wild popular. In Islam, sheep is the vines to transform this land into an thyme. It is a pleasant mezze sample animal of sacrifices during religious amazing and respected farm. Today, Small-scale producers cheese. It is the pride of many Bekaa holidays such as Atha or Eid el- the monastery is famous for its dairies. Kebir. The preserved meat, awarma, sustainable farm running with 160 Wherever we walk in the city, we is made with lamb. Generally, head of cattle, poultry, vineyards and come across outlets selling goods shepherds of Kurdish-Syrian orchards. The artificial lake was dug from small-scale local producers. origins roam between the Syrian in 1963 in the center of the area is Nowadays, a trend is on the rise: and Lebanese mountains. Formerly ideal for strolling. The onsite store organic farming. After decades of nomads, herdsmen are now a settled displays a wide range of organic intensive use of agro-chemicals to community living mainly in the dairy products, teas, honey, eggs, increase yields and improve one’s Bekaa Valley under tents. meats and signature jams. living, farmers are more concerned about issues of environment and Vegetarian cheese, ‘kishk el-khamir’ For historical and obvious health. Some have decided to shift or ‘kishk el-foukara’ (the kishk of the geographical reasons, the majority to organic farming adopting a new poor men) is made of burghul, salt of dairy farms are located in the conception of earth respect and and water. The mode of production Bekaa Valley hence encouraging cutting off old habits of wrong is fermentation plus different cheese making and dairy products practices. It is also an economic issue flavourful spices such as the cumin, in general. A huge number of dairy as demand for organic products the hot pepper or sesame seeds. farms operate in the area each is increasing in the country as

80 81 more awareness is drawn toward have initiated the promotion of Among local little-know producers, grown in an organic plot operated environmental concerns boosting up organic agriculture helping farmers the Swelling Fruit run by Michel by Michel Charbel and produces health shops and organic outlets. to gain national certifications while Charbel, is a small company located are directly sold to restaurants and On a more institutional level, NGOs developing international standards. in Zahle. Vegetable and fruits are shopkeepers in Beirut.

82 83 spread their influence along the Mediterranean creating comptoirs. Their dominance over the Mediterranean region declined in 50 BC leaving behind a rooted wine culture. In 250 AD, Romans built in Baalbek the largest temple ever dedicated to Bacchus, the God of Wine providing the region with a legitimate legacy.

Wine as trade started in the 19th century in the Bekaa valley in the vicinity of Zahle. Jesuit priests encouraged wine making while settling in Ksara in 1857 and later on in Taanayel in 1870. Back then, Taanayel (“the cauldron of God” in Arabic) was still a marshy region. The introduction of vines served to produce church wine for the clergy use solely. During the French Mandate (1919-1943), French soldiers boosted the wine demand and the Jesuits provided them with commercial bottles. In 1868, a French engineer Pierre Eugène Le Brun settled definitively in Chtaura where he operated the oldest commercial company in Lebanon, Le Domaine des Tourelles.

Arak and wine are the main drinks of Lebanon. They have been produced in the country for Ever since Phoenician times, a perfect expertise in viticulture millennium and some vines are 12. THE GRAPE Lebanon has a traditional wine (vine selection and growing) and indigenous. According to Sumerian ROUTE: OF WINE heritage. They were renowned as the viniculture (different winemaking tablets with cuneiform inscriptions, most ancient wine trading sailors. techniques). Encouraged by this beer was the first drink fermented AND ARAK… 4000 years ago, Phoenicians had winemaking know-how, they in the region. In 3200 BC, beer was

84 85 the drink at all feasts. Wine appeared The region’s agricultural goods are Bacchus, is represented on a mosaic, grapes are blessed for good harvest. later. In Lebanon, there were 22 interrelated, especially in the Bekaa stretched out and tipsy. He seems to From mid-18th century until the varieties of native vines, only 6 located at crossroads of several savour this sweet moment of bliss. end of the Ottoman occupation, of which remain today. For the routes. Indeed, aniseed is grown in a Christian clerics negotiated with arak, the souri and the obeide are prosperous and fertile region in the The Arab invasion of 636 AD the Sublime Porte the right to preferred to the merweh, mariami, outskirts of Damascus – Syria and threatened wine culture. However, produce wine within the framework obeide and sarini. The latter is driven in trucks down to Lebanese powerful Christian presence in of the rites of the church. The excellent for white wine. Formerly, wineries. It is the most popular Mount Lebanon maintained its Turks, followers of hanafite rite, the merweh that grows as high aniseed the Middle-East and offers process. Monks and priests saved were tolerant with alcohol. They as 1000 meters (Mount Lebanon) a tasty and excellent combination winemaking by using in mass. In produced raki, similar to arak. Ever was used for grape molasses, arak when distilled into arak. Kesrouan, Bzommar’s Catholic since the French mandate and the and wine. The local vines would be Armenian Convent has been display of their troops in the Bekaa naturally exempt of phylloxera (a producing wine since 1810. The Valley, wine started developing greenfly that attacks young vine). Wine… a tribute to Bacchus first vintages were exclusive to the rapidly. In the 1920s, domestic Since the Crusades, numerous convent purpose. Henceforth, the production has been concentrated in French vines have been imported. Wine is Lebanon’s other national convent produces hundreds of the Bekaa Valley above 900 metres. The most famous are Cabernet- drink. The vineyard has become part bottles sold at the convent’s shop. Wineries were modernized and wine Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache, of the Lebanese gastronomy. Vine On Virgin Mary Day (August 15), increased in quality. Le Comte de M, Merlot, Syrah and Carignon. leaves are stuffed (mehchi waraq inab), the green clusters transformed Arak or the ‘milk of the brave’ is into verjuice, ripe grape transformed the perfect match to mezze. The into molasses or vinegar. Picked arak is inextricable of the fertile in July, it is a white grape pits free Bekaa valley. Cousin of the raqi and slightly acid is the ‘achlamich’. Zbib the ouzo, it is made of grapes and (sultanas) are eaten dried or in aniseed through a subtle process of syrup. three consecutive fermentations. Since the 3rd century BC, White grape and aniseed are the Phoenicians exported jars of wine two basic ingredients of arak. It is and olive oil as well as the purple only recently, in the last two decades dye within the framework of that wine has become more popular trades with other Mediterranean and appreciated than arak. Wine is countries. Purple, extracted of the being considered by middle-class as murex, a coastal mollusk enriched more chic than old-fashioned arak. this civilization that invented the Nonetheless, new wineries have 22-letter alphabet. adopted arak and through a clever marketing campaign are trying to In the religious complex of Baalbek recover its blitz. The most famed is a temple dedicated to the god arak makers are located in the Bekaa Bacchus built in the mid-2nd Valley. Century AD. The god of wine,

86 87 a symbolic wine, has been produced wine whereby regular customers and to an increase in demand by French and Israeli troops occupied Kefraya. by Château Kefraya since 1996. The wine lovers celebrate the end of the soldiers. In order to reach his fields, the winery, a joint property of three harvest gathered around a typical winemaker took a boat from producers-connoisseurs extends traditional meal. The domaine grows In 1972, the Vatican decided to sell Beirut to Sidon and made his way over more than 400 hectares in the 40 hectares for a yearly production out the property that was privatized through the mountains to check fertile Bekaa Valley. of 150,000 bottles out of which 35% and bought by several shareholders. out on his vines and produce the are exported. Families Issa and Issa- The civil war didn’t stop the activity 1982 war vintage. At an altitude of In the 1990s, numerous domains el-Khoury, the owners, boast the first and production suffered from the 1,000 meters, vines are just in the blossomed in the Bekaa including commercialized vintage in 1868. consequences but never failed to right place to give the best wine. Massaya run by Ghosn brothers deliver a yearly tasty wine. In 1990, Strongly related to the history of putting the country on the wine The Jesuits founded the Ksara a general reshuffle took place and the region, Kefraya hosts 1st century map. Nowadays, Lebanon exports winery in 1857 in the Bekaa Valley. several development programmes Roman catacombs underneath the its wine and its bottles win In 1860, Father Kirn improved the led to establish the winery as one winery. An estate of 360 hectares, a international prizes. production process and started of the leading business in the wine production of 2,000,000 bottles and making a flavourful, popular wine. field. Nowadays, 340 hectares are 33% export insures a leading place From tradition to modern-style Ksara’s caves were discovered by exploited and production reaches in the wine sector of the region. wineries, the Bekaa Valley has accident. According to legend, in 2,700,000 bottles for 45% export. been hosting the most ancient 1898 a fox was chasing away hens, The first vintage was released in In 1893, the Gantous family winemaking location to the most when it rushed into the caves of 1860. launched in Zahle a distillery for up-to-date stylish winery. the convent that date back to the arak and wine. In 1947, arak was The first commercial winery, Roman period. Jean Gharios, an One of the most successful wines widely commercialized on the Domaine des Tourelles was founded orphan who helped out Jesuits in the Bekaa history is certainly domestic market as a joint venture by a French engineer Francois- was flushing the fox out when he Chateau Kefraya. Michel de Bustros between the Gantous and the Abou Eugene Brun. He was the general came across subterranean galleries. inherited land in the neighbourhood Raad families, both arak producers supervisor of Beirut-Damascus This led to the discovery of natural of Kefraya village in the 1950s. arak since the 1890s. In 1971, the road when he settled in Chtoura. cellars spreading out for 2 km with He planted orchards and started Wardy family bought Abou Raad’s In 1868, he opens up a guesthouse a constant natural temperature of growing vines. The land in the and introduced two new brands in a traditional mansion together 12°C/53°F; ideal for the conservation Bekaa is perfect for vine growing as of arak Al Najjar and Al Arrab. In with an in-house winery dedicated of wine bottles; humidity level is also it doesn’t require huge amounts of 1973 Gantous & Abou Raad became to guests. The Domaine started ideal. water and the climate is ideal with Lebanon’s leading arak. expanding by producing wine for When the story first began, the high temperatures in the summer, In 1989, the winery started French troops stationed in the vineyard was exclusively dedicated a freezing snowy winter, just what harvesting its own grapes on private region in the aftermath of the 1860 to mess purposes. In 1870, Ottoman it takes to grow juicy and fruitful vineyard. Domaine Wardy was Druze-Maronite skirmishes. Brun authorities granted Jesuits 25 grapes. launched on the Lebanese market developed an excellent arak, a hectares alongside with existing 18 years after planting vines, Michel in November 1999 with a full benchmark of quality pretty much Taanayel village crops. They grew began to produce wine from his range of red, white and rosé wines. appreciated for its original ageing vines for the church needs. The harvest. In 1979, while war was Nowadays, 45 hectares provide process and its authentic taste. Every French mandate that ran after WWI raging in the country, de Bustros an average production of 250,000 year in September, the Domaine from 1920 to the Independence in was starting a lucrative business. In bottles out of which 65% is exported. organizes a ‘gerbode’, the feast of the 1943 boosted wine production due June 1982, Israel invaded Lebanon The first vintage was in 1997.

88 89 90 91 When tradition leads to a modern After a period of rest, the white wine since 1888. The low-key winery the Bekaa where anything could an attractive business is put into traditional Moorish lid produces 450,000 bottles a year on grow due to perfect climate. With copper stills for the distillation. 65 hectares and exports 65% of its 15 hectares and 50,000 bottles, the In the aftermath of the civil war that The first distillation (eight hours) wines. family winery has released its first torn apart the country, wine making is the first step, the second (eight vintage in 2004. became trendy and a huge number hours) removes impurities and Heritage is a West Bekaa winery A year later, Chateau Ka offered of wineries started spreading out leaves the “heart” of alcohol, while run by doctor Dargham Touma. 55 its first vintage. With 70 hectares in the famous Bekaa region. In the third (twenty four hours) gives hectares and a production exceeding and 150,000 bottles, the family is in 1990, 4 wineries were operating in arak its purity and distinction. 400,000 bottles a year with a large business since 1919. Akram Kassatly, the region while in 2012, over 20 Massaya combines the third export of 60%, the wine grows the founder was brought in a wine wineries are active in the sector. distillation with the maceration of on perfect hills at 1,150 meters of ambiance. In 1919, Akram’s father It’s an expanding business that is the very best green organic aniseed altitude. opened a bottling factory in Beirut also diversifying by opening wine from the village of Hineh on the and produced Saint-Nicolas a low- restaurants and dedicated tours. Syrian slopes of Mount Hermon. In 2000, Nicolas Abou Khater, a key wine. It was not until 2003 that Arak is aged in traditional clay passionate winemaker opened with Akram decided to purchase land Massaya is the brainchild of two amphorae especially artisan made by his wife the pianist Roula a family in the Bekaa and produce its own- native Lebanese brothers, Ramzi and potters of renowned Mount Lebanon winery. Located on the hills of made wine in 2005. Sami Ghosn, who have combined village of Beit Chebab. They are Zahle, the cellars and fields boast their fabulous terroir to the know- made porous enough to absorb some an excellent sun exposure. Coteaux Domaine de Baal is located on the how of two French winemaking of the liquid and allow it to breathe. du Liban spreads over 16 hectares heights of the city of Zahle. Vines connoisseurs. Massaya is situated in During this crucial resting period for 60,000 bottles that are entirely grow on terraces facing the South Taanayel in the middle of the Bekaa that lasts many months, a portion exported. The first vintage was in and are located on a fertile red clay plateau. of the alcohol, part of angels, 2000. Since Nicolas passed away soil mainly limestone rocks giving evaporates and the clay lends a faint tragically, his wife took over the grapes freshness and mineral notes. golden clarity to the matured arak. business. The domaine encompasses 12 First vintage was in 1998 with over hectares for 12,000 bottles. Varieties 300,000 bottles out of which 85% are Chateau Khoury is located on a grown are Cabernet Sauvignon, exported. privileged location on the eastern Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, foothills of Zahle at an altitude Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. A year later, 1998 saw the release of of 1300 m. The winery is a family Winery roofs are vegetal providing Cave Kouroum first vintage. Run by run business. The philosophy natural chilliness during the hot Bassim Rahhal, the Kefraya winery is to design a high quality wine summers. Sebastien Khoury will produces 700,000 bottles and export expressing characteristics of the soon get the bio certification. The 40% of its wine. The estate of 200 Lebanese climate and terroir. Young first vintage was in 2007. hectares extends in one of the most winemaker, Jean-Paul Khoury beautiful areas of the Bekaa. hailing from Zahle introduced Domaine Mar Helios is a garage Alsace-grown vines onto Lebanese wine with a first vintage in 2007. The first 1998 vintage of Chateau soil in order to prove that wine offer It was by accident that Marwan el- Saint-Thomas was quite successful. can be diversified and Alsacian Chemelany started the winery after Touma family had been in business varietals adapt perfectly well in the 2006 Israeli-hezbollah war hit

92 93 the Bekaa valley leaving behind In 1991, 20,000 hectares were used grapes in the fields and no sale to grow drugs, and these fields possible during harvest to leading have since been transformed into wineries. In Qab Elias, without any grapes growing. The cooperative customer, Marwan decided to start a encompasses 11 villages in Deir el- small wine production. Ahmar region. All villages agreed to replace hashish by grapes. Brainchild In 2005, the Saade holding of the project, Sami Rahme from purchased 55 hectares of land in the Ainata worked together with l’Oise Kefraya region to establish Marsyas, in France to establish fair trade wine a wine produced only with home involving 250 farmers. grown grapes. They released the first acclaimed vintage in 2007 Until now, plots dedicated to and produce 50,000 bottles and grapes total 200,000 hectares. Each export 15%. year, this figure increases and 175 hectares are added, hence expanding Chateau Qanafar is a small winery the growing surface of vines in the with 12,000 bottles and first vintage country year by year. In total, in in 2008. It is a typical wine project 2011, wineries have produced over whereby retired executive decide to 8 million bottles. 75% sold on the open up a winery to dedicate their domestic market and 25% exported. leisure time to wine production. Grapes prices have witnessed an George Naim operates this tiny increase due to the strong demand into a still. Eventually, a third and Arak production has dropped by winery and comes up with a velvety and an expanding wine market as last distillation results in a liquid 10% in the last decade due to lack wine that he sells on the domestic well as a growing interest towards with stronger alcohol content. This of export to conflict countries market. wine. last distillation is adjusted with such as Iraq and competition from some alcohol obtained from the first neighbouring countries such as In 2009, Chateau Barka started Arak, the genuine local drink distillation. Arak is called ‘mtalat’ Jordan. producing wines thanks to the 12 (triple distillation) or ‘imm el-kheil’. Yearly, approximately 1,700,000 th hectares belonging to the family Ever since the mid 19 century arak The still was probably invented by bottles are sold in the country. Most Geagea. A small production of 5,000 has been processed in the region. Abou El Qassim El Zahrawi, an distilleries are located in the Bekaa bottles sold entirely on the local White grape is pressed and first Arab-Andalus who lived in Cordoba Valley. market. distillation comes after a period of in the 10th century. Several brands compete on this Coteaux Heliopolis is a unique fermentation during which some market. One of the oldest distilleries wine experience as it’s the only water is added to the must (the Arak contains an average of 45%/vol. is also a major actor in the wine winery run by a cooperation of first step in wine-making). The first Classic mixture is 1/3 arak for 2/3 sector, Domaine des Tourelles farmers. Formerly, the region was phase is made in a still. Arak is kept water with one or two ice cubes. It produces an upper-scale arak. Arak, solely dedicated to hashish growing in terracotta jars for a year. In the takes on a milky colour. This is why la reserve is aged 5 years in jars in encouraging farmers to start a second phase, alcohol is mixed with it is called the ‘milk of the lioness’. In cellars. This mature refined arak is lucrative yet not an illegal business. aniseed. Then, the mixture is poured Zahle, they call it ‘tears of the Virgo’. one of the most expensive and the

94 95 most popular among connoisseurs. Ksara is another Bekaa main arak Arak represents 50% of the revenues producer with 100,000 bottles per of the winery. With a production of year. The brand Ksarak is popular 200,000 bottles, it is number One in among Middle Class and sells well gourmet outlets and at the airport. abroad. The biggest arak producer is Nader Distilleries. Founded in 1985 Arak Ghantous & Abou Raad is in Mtein, the Bou Nader family one the oldest institutions. The produces 500,000 bottles yearly. company produces a high quality The standard arak is sold at a low arak made of triple distillation and price and caters for lower-class sold at a reasonable price. It is quite communities. Arak Al-Amir, Al-Assi popular internationally and sold in and Baalbek are the three brands of Lebanese restaurants throughout the the company. world. The Bekaa company boasts international recognition. In Mtein, Al-Kasr sells 150,000 In Zahle, Arak Wardy is a famous bottles yearly at an average price. brand selecting the best of Bekaa The Khaïrallah were specialized in grapes. baladi arak (privately produced) when in 1988 they decided to found Arak al-Karaam is one of Zahle’s Château al-Kasr. Arak is made of artisan arak distillery. It is located Bekaa grapes and Syrian aniseed. in the city and has an excellent local A main arak producer, Massaya uses reputation. only locally grown grapes matching them with organic aniseed bought Biggest brands are Nader Distilleries from an artisan producer across the - 1985 (500,000 bottles/year), border in Syria. Abousleiman – 1950 (170,000 bottles/year) or Al Kasr – 1938 It is common to acknowledge (150,000 bottles/year). such commercial between the two countries as farmers and producers The accurate figures of arak cannot are used to exchanging products be checked as many families distil since centuries. their homemade arak. They often Kefraya sells 50,000 bottles a year sell their produce in an off market at an average price. Grapes hail (food markets, small grocery shops, exclusively from the Château vines festivals) or at restaurants without located in the Bekaa plateau. While any permit or registration. producing 2 million bottles of wine, Therefore, the figure of yearly arak arak’s production has decreased due production in the country could to higher interest for wine. easily exceed 2 million bottles.

96 97 El Ari, an outstanding musician, 13. FESTIVALS, played the oud, a Middle-Eastern FEASTS AND string instrument. Both men hailed from Zahle. Together, they EVENTS created a festive atmosphere that attracted a regional crowd. On the In the 1940s, Zahle ranked on top program: Badia Massabni, dancer of ‘entertainment in the region’. and singer, Sabah and Feyrouz. The Restaurant owners brought artists, pair presented a certain vision of and actors and comedians for Lebanon, nostalgia melting with evenings of dining and drinking ‘joie de vivre’. Feyrouz was the where mezze was king. In the 1960s, star of Lebanese folklore, the diva Najib Hankache, nicknamed ‘zarif of the Lebanese Nights, and she loubnane’ (the witty Lebanese), popularized the Dabke, the national returned from Brazil a wealthy man. dance. The big attraction was Very soon, he became the most musicals of the Rahbani brothers famous comic actor. He even ran a that dazzled the starry nights of program on the national television, the city of Baalbek. And like the back then, the country’s only TV ancient city itself, they are forever station. On some evenings, Khalil etched in the city’s history. Nasri Chamseddine and Wadih el Safi were two other bards of Zahle’s wild evenings. The cultural picture was completed with the ‘hakawiti’ (story tellers), narrators who inspirited the night with their tales.

The Baalbek Festival began in 1956, championed by the President of the Republic Camille Chamoun with the brilliant May Arida at the helm. It attracted people from all over the world. The first season was inaugurated by Jean Cocteau, director of the play ‘La Machine Infernale’. The festival welcomed an impressive array of artists: Samson François, Gina Bachauer, Rostropovitch, Richter, Von Karajan, Margot Fonteyn and

98 99 Rudolf Noureev. Sometimes, Hotel the crowning of the ‘Maid of the September 23rd attracting tourists Kadri was so full that guests slept Vine’, a local beauty queen. The from throughout the country. in corridors. The evening began in festival usually ends with floats Baalbek in the middle of millenary entirely decorated with flowers An important cultural event is the ruins and ended in the sweet according to a central theme. “Festival of the Vine”, traditionally Oriental chants of Zahle’s streets. In September of every year, a local held each September, during which Often, evenings included George market run by Souk el Tayeb, the concerts, plays, poetry evenings and El Jabali’s zajal. The zajal, a verbal first farmer market in the country artistic exhibitions are organized sparring match requires an innate showcases the specialties of local daily over the course of two or three gift for gab as well as the ability to artisan farmers and wineries. weeks. The final Saturday evening react, creativity and spontaneity. Food and Feast celebrates local features the crowning of the “Maid People exchange retorts in an Lebanese diversity, highlights local of the Vine”, the local beauty queen, impressive confrontational style that culture and food traditions of a and the next afternoon, the festival could sometimes turn tense. It is the village or a region. Discovering closes with arguably its most popular spiritual theater of improvisation local hidden treasures, typical event: a parade of floats held on where spectators hang on each word. products, special dishes, wonderful the town’s main avenue. The floats farmers and producers… Always are entirely decorated with flowers During harvest in September, there celebrating the best of each village is a wine festival, with conferences, and locality such as fish in Batroun, exhibitions, concerts, plays, poetry karaz (cherries) in Hammana, evenings and artistic exhibitions, akoub (Gundelia) in Deir el Qamar, plays and dances. Zahle is full of life kaak bi haleeb (Milk cookie) in during this festival and there is the Marjeyoun… election of a wine beauty queen. Zahle culture has long revolved Food & Feast festivals highlight the around its signature crop, grape, and cultural specificities of Lebanon’s its by-products, wine and arak. Arak, various regions with the aim of in particular, has traditionally been establishing a stronger relationship served in cafés at virtually any time between city and village. These of the day. Together with the town’s festivals not only introduce people to breathtaking natural settings, it has these villages, but also promote the provided inspiration to many poets local economy by giving producers and writers, natives that have praised a market to sell their products. the city in their writings, leading to The project also aims at promoting the designation as ‘City of Wine and ecotourism in the regions in Poetry’. A graceful personification partnership with local communities lies at the town’s entrance gate: a and the civil society. The aim of statue of Erato, the Muse of love the Festival is to connect farmers, poetry, holding a bunch of grapes. producers to patrons. The last Saturday evening features In 2012, the festival took place on

100 101 according to a central theme. The Prophet Elias (Elijah) is the town’s statue at the entrance of the city has patron saint, whose feast on July been at an early stage criticized for 20 is traditionally celebrated with its nudity. However, zahliots and fireworks and food booths across their free-spirited lifestyle fought to the city. keep it as it is and not covering it as it reflects both freedom of speech Another notable holiday is Corpus- and a devotion for life. Christi, celebrated on the first The Poetry Festival is a tribute to Thursday of June with a large-scale the city’s heritage of poetry lovers procession, with a torch-lit parade and writers. Local and regional being held on the previous evening. poets flood the city in order to recite The Corpus Christi celebration poems and verses about the city of dates back to 1825, when the town Zahle, its beautiful Vine Maid and was spared the ravages of bubonic many other themes related to the plague. The bishop carried the country or the Mediterranean Sea. communion glass and wandering around the city. As a miraculous result, all residents were healed. Since then, on Thursday of Holy Body, the bishop tours the city followed by worshipers from all over the region. Indeed, believers flock in from Egypt, neighbouring Syria and Jordan.

102 103 blueprint to help preserving the compete on another level with mass 14. gastronomic heritage of the city produced foods that have a lesser PARTNERSHIP through workshops, fairs, awareness identity and that are not rooted in an campaign, ads and master classes. environment. Zahle will set a special framework The work with institutions would in accordance to the Creative Cities help the development of a more In collaboration with hospitality Network by structuring a platform efficient gastronomic education actors such as restaurants & pastry whereby locals would be involved in in order to pass on down future shops, Zahle wants to work on a the fulfilment of commitments set generations food know-how & knowledge-sharing programme with up by Unesco that defines a city of literature. Zahle would initiate other cities in the network. gastronomy. innovative programs too to increase Zahle wishes to participate in food Zahle has already strong allies, in the the green and locavore input of events to provide high exposure first place the Ministry of Tourism the city by implementing laws that of local food, mezze being the most important part of it. The and the Ministry of Culture that would favour green farming in the Municipality is serious about fully support the application of region. keeping up the food tradition in ‘Creative Cities Network’. line with the growing awareness Zahle has for many years now a On the other hand, Zahle intends of healthy slow food. Zahle is very special and reliable French partner, to help farmers and producers proud to offer to its residents as well the Departement of l’Oise. The two providing them with technical to tourists a high-standard food institutions work hand-in-hand help to enhance local production quality, mainly locally-sourced. to improve culture, economy and and promote local know-how. This agriculture. promotion is already set up thanks Zahle membership will connect to the yearly farmer market in The main projects that are underway the city to a global network and to collaboration with Souk el Tayeb include the renovation of the old institutions working in the food that takes place in September. souk of Blat, building a theatre with field, so that Zahle would benefit It gives a serious push to local the Institut Français and creating a from the expertise and know-how to Local Library. The city of Zahle will organic farmers that are respectful expand its local food and help small benefit from the expertise of l’Oise to of the environment and praise a scale food producers. This would forge a reliable and creative potential sustainable agriculture in harmony also encourage ecotourism and focused on the gastronomy assets of with Mother Nature. In this environmental-friendly activities. the city. prospect, Zahle would participate in ‘Terra Madre 2014’ in order to Zahle is also partner-city with showcase traditional local food Québec in Canada and member of and meet with actors of the organic the Association Internatonale des farming communities around the Maires Francophones (AIMF) world. Zahle is conscious that artisan food is an added value to the Zahle is considering encouraging city as this food has a proper identity public and private institutions and a strong story connected with to work together on a common its surrounding. These products

104 105 SOURCES APPENDIX 1

A large amount of information in *Copy of Zahle Application Letter to this application is taken from written ‘Creative Cities Network’. sources, interviews with historians, *Map of Zahle food experts, chefs, hospitality *Le Liban Gourmand – a gourmet communities and zahliots. foodie guide to Lebanon – Chérine Yazbeck – 2011 In Lebanon, web sites are not quite developed and only a few archives can be found on line. All photos by © Chérine Yazbeck The books except © Clément Tannouri : Photos page 37,87,98,99 C’était Zahlé, de Carlos & Nevine Photo © Randa Mirza : page 90 Hage Chahine, 2008

Zahlé par Chawki George Raya, 1994

Zahleh, land of poetry and wine, travel guide

Liban: Mémoires d’un instant, Clément Tannouri, 2006

Zahle, ya Zahle, archives de Zahlé, 2011.

L’annuaire de Zahlé

Les Archives du Festival du Tourisme, 1994

150 regards pour un cinquantenaire, Centre Culturel Français, Zahlé, 2009

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