SEESAWING COMPS/12 THE ONLINE RUSH/13 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 2, 2005 • $2.00

WWDFRIDAY Diddy does Saks. Page 4. Beauty ’s New Age By Julie Naughton NEW YORK — With a new president and two additions to one of its best-selling skin care lines, Clinique is about to enter the next chapter in its 37-year history. The Estée Lauder Cos., Clinique’s parent, is expected to announce today that beauty veteran Lynne Greene will take the helm of the iconic department store brand early next year. As well, Clinique is set for a national rollout of two products — a mask and a serum — which it expects to significantly boost the brand’s already popular Turnaround skin care franchise. See Clinique, Page5 BY MEGAN MCINTYRE PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 WWD.COM Task Force Targets Jewelry Theft Ring By Kristi Ellis WWDFRIDAY WASHINGTON — The FBI, join- Beauty ing with the jewelry and gem in- dustry and local law enforce- GENERAL ment, has launched a task force BEAUTY: With a new president and two additions to one of its best-selling to catch a ring of thieves that 1 skin care lines, Clinique is writing the next chapter in its 37-year history. has burglarized 50 jewelry The FBI has launched the Gate Cutters Jewelry Task Force to nab a jewelry stores of more than $5.1 million heist ring that has burglarized some 50 stores of $5.1 million in goods. in merchandise along the East 2 Coast for two years. Sean “Diddy” Combs made a delivery to the Saks flagship, driving a Brinks Federal agents said at a news 4 truck filled with the first load of Unforgivable, his new men’s fragrance. conference Thursday that the al- P&G is putting its biggest effort in five years behind CoverGirl’s January leged organized criminal ring, 6 launches, including a new makeup line, , and mascara. dubbed “Gate Cutters Jewelry Crew,” has targeted primarily na- High-end department stores posted surprisingly weak same-store sales in tional, mall-based stores in as 12 November, while Wal-Mart and Penney’s had solid results. many as 12 states, stretching Internet shoppers are buying furs, diamonds and designer handbags, from Manchester, N.H., to Boca Zales is among the retailers that has been a target of the thieves. 13 apparently having overcome a hesitancy to buy expensive items online. Raton, Fla., and possibly more as ry, such as chains, bracelets and while the recovery rate of stolen The Chinese government is giving WorldBest Group Co., a state-operated far west as Illinois. rings, as well as men’s and cars, for example, is 63 percent. textile and pharmaceutical conglomerate, a $617 million bailout. Officials appealed to the pub- women’s Movado watches. The John Kennedy, president of 14 lic for help in catching the suspects, who have been caught the Jewelers’ Security Alliance, Classified Advertisements...... 15 thieves, offering a reward of on surveillance cameras, are de- a non-profit trade association fo- about $50,000 for information scribed as possibly African- cusing on crime prevention and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is leading to their arrests. American or Hispanic males. representing 20,000 jewelry re- [email protected], using the individual’s name. The sophisticated jewelry ring Swecker said the thieves’ tailers and manufacturers, said WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 has “victimized” 16 jewelry re- modus operandi includes cut- this particular “gang” has had a FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 117. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one tailers, including Zale Corp., Tif- ting through roll down security major affect on the 16 jewelry additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional fany, Sterling Jewelers, Whitehall gates in four minutes or less to retailers. issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Jewelers, Reeds Jewelers, Wal- enter the jewelry stores — “The impact on the industry of Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, den Jewelers, Saslow’s Jewelers, hence the “gate cutter” label; gangs such as this — gangs that Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief C&R Jewelers, Michael’s Jewel- stores are usually burglarized have a widespread number of Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. ers and O’Connell Jewelers, the before or after normal business cases, are geographically spread Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. FBI said. hours when a mall may be open out,” cause retailers large dollar Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box The most recent theft oc- for evening theater customers or losses and present the possibility 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE curred Wednesday at a Zales store early morning walkers, and the of violent confrontations, is signif- INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as in Bay Shore, N.Y., officials said. subjects usually wear hooded icant, Kennedy said. printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one “They are operating with im- sweatshirts. In an interview after the year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, punity up and down the East Swecker said law enforce- press conference, Kennedy said business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For Coast,” said Chris Swecker, assis- ment officials believe the group’s although the dollar value will permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, tant director of the FBI’s criminal leaders are based in Manhattan, not “sink the jewelry industry we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would investigative division. “We are although the teams might consist by itself,” the fact that the group interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. concerned about the potential for of different people in different has been able to commit so WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED violence because these types of states. many burglaries without being MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART groups get bolder and bolder as According to the Uniform caught in more than two years is WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE they go.…We don’t want to get in a Crime Report of 2004, the gem a major concern to retailers. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. situation where they are boxed in and jewelry industry lost $1.1 “You don’t usually see a gang or cornered in a mall and we billion through theft, said Eric with this many hits, that keeps have a violent situation.” Ives, acting unit chief for the doing it without being caught or The thieves, suspected to be FBI. He noted that the recovery at least identified,” he said. four to five people, have selec- rate for stolen jewelry, which is “This is unusual that it keeps Quote of the Week tively targeted men’s gold jewel- hard to identify, is 4.4 percent, going on.” “I have a tremendous amount of respect for Target’s marketing capabilities. To me, no one else out there has done Jones Shakes Up Front Office the job. I think we are next.” By Julee Greenberg “Lynne will really help me to be able to focus on other strategic issues involving the company as a — Terry Lundgren, Federated Department Stores Inc. NEW YORK — In an effort to improve its overall whole,” Boneparth said. “We are clearly trying to performance, Jones Apparel Group Inc. has re- get even more product-focused in a more unified aligned some key management positions. way; these promotions will help us along.” The company has promoted Lynne Cote to the In other moves, Boneparth has promoted Mark In Brief newly created post of chief executive officer, whole- Mendelson to chief merchandising officer, better sale sportswear, suits and dresses. Previously, Cote apparel. Previously, he was group president, han- was ceo of moderate apparel at the firm, overseeing dling Jones’ better sportswear brands — Nine West, ● NEW HOME FOR SHAWMUT: Construction management firm such brands as Evan-Picone, Rena Rowan, Nine & Jones New York and Anne Klein. In his new role, Shawmut Design and Construction will open a New York head- Co. and Bandolino. Mendelson is responsible for the company’s whole- quarters today for its retail division at 3 East 54th St. in the heart of the city’s luxury shopping district. The Boston-based firm works with clients nationwide to open flagships often in the , jew- We are clearly trying to get even more product-focused elry and luxury clothing retail sectors. Shawmut Retail already “ has a hold on the New York scene: The company created Louis in a more unified way. Vuitton’s volume of interior space behind an 11-story wall of cus- ” — Peter Boneparth, Jones Apparel Group tom-patterned glass on Fifth Avenue; on 57th Street, the firm built Chanel’s flagship on an aggressive schedule, and Shawmut Retail Cote, who continues to report to Peter sale merchandising and assortment activities for is currently building its 54th store for Apple, located on Fifth Boneparth, ceo of Jones Apparel Group, now holds its better apparel divisions. Avenue. Shawmut Retail also specializes in occupied renovations. complete responsibility for all wholesale sports- Boneparth said the appointment will allow for bet- wear, suit and dress lines, including the flagship ter brand consistency across product categories. ● KELLEY NAMED RETAIL DIRECTOR: Larry I. Kelley, former brands: Jones New York, Anne Klein New York and Susan Metzger has been named president, sales president and chief executive officer of One Price Clothing, Nine West. Her role will encompass her most recent and marketing, better sportswear. Previously, Casual Male and other fashion chains, has been named a retail responsibilities for the firm’s moderate apparel Metzger was group president. She is now responsi- director at Executive Placement Services, an Atlanta-based sportswear brands until a successor is named. Once ble for leading and coordinating sales and market- search and recruiting firm. John Weiss, president of Executive that post is filled, that executive will report to Cote. ing for the company’s wholesale better sportswear Placement Services, said, “Larry will bring a strong background In a telephone interview Thursday, Boneparth categories. in merchandising, planning and executive management to our said Cote’s promotion will allow the company to Finally, Boneparth has promoted Gregg Marks already established search firm.” Kelley started the Antics/Ups better serve all of its wholesale customers with to ceo of Jones’ suit divisions. Earlier, Marks was ‘N’ Downs and Caren Charles women’s chains, served as presi- quicker responses to their needs, have consistent group president of the Jones suit division. dent of Weathervane and Braun’s and started his ca- product across the categories and leverage the in- Mendelson, Metzger and Marks all report to reer at Lazarus. frastructure of the entire firm. Cote. Proof...not promises.™

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than 500 fans stood behind barricades in MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY a long time, especially be- 38-degree weather just to catch a cause as an actress you will glimpse of Combs — who was simply making a WWD earlier this year. “I saw maybe 20 different wear makeup at least eight delivery of the product, not doing a traditional bottles, and when I saw this one, I thought it was hours a day — as compared to personal appearance where fans are greeted different and unique and something that I felt session photos, where you are and bottles are signed. would be remembered.” maybe in makeup for two Before the bottles had even arrived, Saks had Frasch and his team agree. “I think that hours,” she said. “For in- pre-sold 11 of the 2.5-oz. eau de parfum units. By Unforgivable will bring in a new customer base stance, I knew that founda- the time he left at noon, 30 of the superpricy bot- and service the ones we already have,” he said. tions often go to pink or yel- tles had been sold, five while he was standing at “That’s what is so exciting about it.” low, so we worked together to Catherine the counter. Combs, who was scheduled to return to Saks find the tone that I thought Deneuve The bottles are of smoked gray glass in a clear Fifth Avenue Thursday evening to kick off sales was so necessary for a nice, acrylic holder, topped with a gunmetal sculp- for his Sean John women’s apparel line, gave natural glow on this skin. No one is very pink or very white or very tured cap and packaged in a black keepsake box. consumers a peek at the collection at the fra- red, so these foundations are not either.” The packaging was inspired by Combs’ favorite grance event. Combs was accompanied by two fe- MAC will offer a limited-edition Select Tint shade, NW23, and things, including Ferraris, yachts and planes, male models clad in his designs — cream dresses three limited-edition shades of its Studio Lights makeup — and his homes around the world. “It’s architec- topped with cream winter coats with fur collars. Tender Glow, Sand and Frangipani — in the Deneuve lineup. tural, a mix of classic and contemporary,” he told Combs himself chose an elegant ensemble from Select Tint retails for $23, while Studio Lights retails for $14.50. his men’s line — a gray cash- Two limited-edition eye color palettes, each retailing for $34, mere turtleneck, gray pants and will also be offered. “I knew that I didn’t want sparkle of any a gray jacket, accessorized with kind — in eye shadows or even the nail lacquer,” said Deneuve. diamond stud earrings. “I wanted things as matte as possible.” Combs said that he has al- While Deneuve realizes that matte can be a scary word to some ready begun work on his women, she’s convinced of its importance. “When a woman hears women’s fragrance, which is ex- that it’s matte she might think, ‘Oh, it’s harder to wear, you have to pected to be launched in fall be perfect,’ but actually, I find that the sparkle in makeup is hard- 2006. While he was quick to em- er to wear,” she said. “Things are a little looser, with shining parti- phasize that there isn’t yet a fin- cles going everywhere as you touch your eye or your cheekbone. ished juice, he has definite ideas As an actress, you have to have makeup for the cinema that is as of what mood he wants it to con- clear and as matte as possible, because the artificial light doesn’t vey: “Right now, I’d have to say take the sparkle of makeup well, especially after a few hours. that we’re looking for something “We quickly decided on the colors, but it was the finishing that refreshing, yet sensual,” he said. took time,” continued Deneuve. “Getting the exact perfect tone Will it be as sexy as his men’s takes as much time as deciding on a color. It’s hard, when people scent? “Oh, it will be much sexi- try foundations on their hands and then try them on their face. er,” he said with a roguish grin. The hand’s skin and texture is never that of the face.” One thing’s for sure, howev- Store lighting is another challenge. “[In general] I think in er: Combs will stay intimately stores it’s a shame because you don’t have the right lights to try involved with all of the projects makeup,” she said. “You go in a store that has really beautiful which bear his name, especially yellow lights all around, and the lipstick or foundation looks dif- the fragrance. “Lots of people, ferent than it will at home. [The stores] should have lights that when they do a fragrance li- represent real life. Some architects now work with very specific cense, think of it as just another lights, for instance with daylight, which is not so flattering — but ancillary,” he said. “This is a big I feel that it’s better to be not flattering than to be disappointed. deal to me, and it is my brand. I The woman will feel more comfortable afterward.” want to be involved in every as- A muse of Yves Saint Laurent in the Sixties and Seventies, pect, from making the fragrance Deneuve is still very much a fashionista, and said she approves to meeting the sales specialists.” of the current direction of the iconic brand. “It’s difficult to take Combs is also putting the fin- the place of someone who is still living,” said Deneuve. “It will ishing touches on his next album, take time, because there is a change of direction — yet there are due in April, and planning to film archival influences, styles that Yves Saint Laurent himself might two movies next year. He’s also create today.” She said that she is also quite fond of Marc Jacobs, working on a TV commercial for and praises Prada for offering “incredibly couture details de- Unforgivable, which is expected spite being ready-to-wear.” to air this spring. WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 5

WWD.COM Clinique Taps Lynne Greene as President

Continued from page one Lynne has used since its founding in 1968 now include Greene, most recently president of specialty Greene models, and the new Turnaround products intro- brands for the Estée Lauder Cos., will assume her duce subtle changes to the traditional Clinique new role on Jan. 1, and will report to Lauder packaging silhouettes. Turnaround Concentrate group president Philip Shearer. Visible Skin Renewer is in a sleek, pale blue bot- “Lynne is the ultimate pro — she builds strong tle topped and lettered in silver and white tones, businesses, thinks strategically and knows the beau- while Turnaround 15-Minute Facial is in a slight- ty industry like the back of her hand,” said Shearer. ly larger and less deep tub, also in pale blue with “She’s done wonderful things for every brand which silver and white accents. she’s worked on. Clinique is a very strong and im- While the brand is freshening some of its as- portant brand, and with this move, Lynne’s consid- pects, Clinique isn’t ignoring its heritage. In fact, erable talents will be applied to one of the indus- it is looking to one of Clinique’s original ad cam- try’s largest and most respected brands.” paigns for a tag line that will be used next year. It Greene’s extensive résumé includes 18 years asks the question, “Can Great Skin Be Created?” at the Estée Lauder Cos., including a stint at the Shearer hinted that TV advertising in selected Lauder-owned , as that brand’s global markets might bow in the spring, although no president. In 2003, she was named to her current firm plans have yet been made. role as president of Lauder’s specialty store “We may be retelling the Clinique story, but we group, which has entailed overseeing are staying true to the brand’s DNA,” Shearer Prescriptives, Jo Malone and La Mer. said. “This is a brand which has so much sub- “I’m very excited to be joining Clinique,” said stance and a unique story. The brand is very Greene. “It is a brand which offers a combination strong, and we’re looking forward to even more of simplicity and approachability, with a unique growth — especially in Europe and Asia. culture. It’s an exciting combination and one I’m “Turnaround is a very hot franchise for Clinique, looking forward to being a part of.” and it plays on a core strength of the brand’s skin Greene’s first order of business will be to “lis- care heritage — which is exfoliation,” Shearer con- ten and look,” she said this week. “From there, we’ll make other announcements.” tinued. “Exfoliation is a backbone of the three-step [skin care] program on which the Greene will be stepping into her Clinique role as the brand grapples with a brand was built. It is not a trend for us — it is part of our brand DNA. These launches are changing department store landscape. The most dramatic shift will be the closure of coming at a time where we have done a lot of animation around the three-step program, some department store doors previously owned by the May Co. — which Federated and they will be crucially important.” Department Stores acquired this year. About 75 stores already have been marked for Clinique’s Clarifying , part of the brand’s Three-Step skin care line, was closure — and others are expected to follow, industry sources have said. Moreover, launched in 1968 as the brand bowed in department stores. It contains salicyclic acid in Clinique, which pioneered the dermatological approach to skin care in 1968, is now liquid form, a groundbreaking ingredient for skin care at the time, and is widely credit- faced with a raft of competition from upstart doctor brands. However, it remains a ed with introducing the exfoliation concept to department store consumers. The brand giant as the number-one brand in U.S. department stores and one of the dominant added salicyclic acid in a liposome system when it launched the original Turnaround forces in the world. Lauder does not break out volume figures, but industry sources cream in 1992, and then added new glucosamine technology to Total Turnaround, which estimate Clinique’s worldwide sales at $2 billion. bowed in 2001. Both Greene and Shearer are confident that the two Turnaround additions — The two newest products to join the Turnaround lineup use a patent-pending de- which incorporate skin care technology not available when the Turnaround fran- livery technology to effect exfoliation deep in the skin’s surface, explained Debbie chise was launched in 1992 — will be a powerful business driver in those depart- D’Aquino, vice president of product development marketing for Clinique. “We dis- ment store doors that remain. covered that chestnut extract works extremely well in synergy with glucosamine and While none of the executives would comment on estimated sales or advertising salicyclic acid, making all of the other ingredients even more efficacious — and the spending, industry sources estimated that the two new Turnaround products would net result is that skin is exfoliated in sync with the body’s natural rhythms,” said do at least $25 million at retail in their first year on counter and that the D’Aquino. The products are designed to be used before the brand’s Three-Step skin Turnaround ad budget would be about $2 million. The national print campaign care regimen. breaks in January fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, noted Beth Spruance, Turnaround Concentrate Visible Skin Renewer, designed to be used twice daily, vice president of treatment marketing for Clinique. carries a price tag of $36.50, while Turnaround 15-Minute Facial, for once-a-week In addition, Clinique itself has recently undergone subtle tweaks, part of keeping use, is $34.50. Both officially launch in January, although Saks Fifth Avenue’s any venerable brand fresh. The Irving Penn, product-as-hero ad shots that the brand Manhattan flagship has already begun quietly selling the items. Federated Merchandising Names IFF,Visionaire Reunite for Collaboration Debbie Murtha to Cosmetics Post NEW YORK — International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Mirzayantz explained while other forms of delivery NEW YORK — In a long-awaited announce- and Visionaire have joined creative forces to introduce were considered, such as pills, liquids and lollipops, the ment, Federated Department Stores has Visionaire 47 Taste, a limited-edition art publication that film was ultimately chosen for its practicality, potency tapped Debbie Murtha as senior vice presi- pairs images with flavors. and “element of surprise.” dent of cosmetics of the Macy’s Merchan- The effort, which bows this month in high-end book- The tastes include the familiar, like lemonade and dising Group. stores, is a collaboration between IFF flavorists and con- mint, which corresponds with a painting called For the last nine years, Murtha spearheaded temporary artists that is designed to “engage the eyes “Summer”; cherry licorice, which is matched with a pho- group buying of cosmetics at May Department and the tongue,” said Nicolas Mirzayantz, senior vice tograph called “Youth,” and the highly conceptual jet Stores. In her role as senior vice president at president of Fine Fragrances & Beauty fuel and metal, which accompanies a work May Merchandising Co., her influence was so Care and North America regional man- named “Adrenaline.” pervasive industry executives began speculat- ager for IFF. “One of my favorites is ‘Exotic,’ ” said ing about her future almost as soon as news Visionaire 47 Taste is housed in a Mirzayantz, referring to a photograph by broke last spring that Federated intended to ac- black presentation box. Inside, a Nobuyoshi Araki of a flower. “There is so quire May. Prior to her stint in cosmetics, bound book contains paintings, photo- much texture and density, and the notion of Murtha had held merchandising positions at graphs and conceptual images along skin. It’s almost carnal.” The accompanying the Filene’s and G. Fox divisions during her 30- with an equal number of tiny cassettes taste, created by Guinevere de la Marguerite, year career with May Co. containing taste films, much like the is mango and orange blossom, which imparts In her new role at Macy’s Merchandising breath-freshening strips on the market. a heat sensation on the tongue. Group, Murtha will report to Janet Grove, Each cassette corresponds to an image Visionaire and IFF will also introduce chairman and chief executive officer of the in the book and is adorned with a their collaboration at Art Basel, which Federated division and vice chairman of thumbnail photo of the artwork. To ex- began Thursday in Miami Beach and runs parent Federated Department Stores. “She perience the collection, participants Visionaire 47 Taste through Sunday. Several flavorists and has had many years of successful results at place a taste strip on their tongue while viewing the cor- artists will be on hand at “The Taste Bar” to guide visi- May Co. and is a recognized leader in the responding image. tors through the experience. On Dec. 10, the pair will cosmetics industry,” Grove said of Murtha in “As a leader in creativity within our industry, it is our open an exhibit, mirroring Visionaire 47 Taste, at the a statement. “We are very pleased to have duty to stretch the boundaries and the experience of Visionaire Gallery, located at 11 Mercer Street. The ex- someone of her caliber join our talented taste and scent,” declared Mirzayantz. He continued that hibit is slated to run through early February. Macy’s team.” the exercise allowed flavorists to experiment beyond Visionaire 47 Taste marks IFF’s second collaboration Murtha is beginning her new role while what he called “traditional olfactory territories.” with Visionaire. Two years ago, they launched Visionaire continuing to play a part in the transition of Collaborators include artists Yoko Ono, Thomas 42 Scent, an art publication that explored original May Co. cosmetics through second quarter Demand, Bruce Weber; surfing legend Laird Hamilton, scents, namely Cold, Noise and Hunger, and included 2006. She is expected to relocate to New York and master chefs Ferran Adrìa of Spain and Heston collaborators such as Karl Lagerfeld and David Bowie. from St. Louis after the first of the year. Blumenthal of The Fat Duck in the U.K. — Molly Prior 6 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 The Beauty Report Cover Girl’s Royal Expansion By Andrea Nagel Cover Girl’s Queen collection. NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble is putting forward its biggest effort in five years behind Cover Girl’s January launches, which include a comprehensive ethnic make- up line, a foundation claiming to erase five years off your look, a lip-plumping lipstick and a new mascara complete with nonclumping technology. “What’s exciting about all these initiatives is they have the opportunity to drive category growth. We have done a detailed job in understanding needs and [finding out] why women aren’t buying in the mass market. We created breakthrough innova- tion to bring them into the mass market,” said Virginia “Gina” Drosos, vice president and general manager for P&G Beauty. Retailers are counting on Cover Girl’s efforts, as well as a slew of product launch- es coming from competitors such as L’Oréal, and New York, to keep sales going strong. According to ACNeilsen data for the 52-week period ended Oct. 8, excluding Wal-Mart, cosmetics sales were up 4 percent to $2.5 billion compared with the year before. One of P&G’s biggest efforts, the Cover Girl Queen Collection, first was reported in these pages in September. The makeup line for women of color includes foundation, lip color, , lip pencil, eye shadow quads, mascara, eyeliner and nail color. Prices range from $3.49 to $6.49 — in line with general-market Cover Girl products. Queen, as in Queen Latifah, a Cover Girl spokeswoman since 2001, will launch in 18 cities in January and looks to generate sales exceeding $10 million by the end of 2007. Items in the Queen line, such as powder and foundation, have been formulated specifically for the ethnic consumer. Dr. Sarah Vickery, senior scientist, P&G Beauty, explained that ingredients and their amounts were crucial to getting the right formulas. “We had to think of titanium dioxide levels, for example, for opacity and shade. To avoid an ashy look on skin, we had to be careful how much is in there. In ethnic formulas, you decrease the amount of titanium dioxide and increase pigment,” Vickery said. The R&D team also considered the type of talc used. They opted for one nology that will boost brightness, but also enhance contrast. That’s the real breakthrough that’s translucent, allowing the real skin tone to shine through, as well as with Advanced Radiance. The Fixed Fluid Film is very mobile on the face and keeps one to absorb oils and to prevent an ashy look. Cover Girl worked with pigments wet and in place. Traditional technology may sometimes decrease contrast, Roxanne Floyd, Queen Latifah’s makeup artist, and Queen Latifah to come but [the formulas] dry out and, as the face moves around, pigments stick together and up with the line’s shades. move into fine lines. That’s why older women stop using foundation altogether.” Drosos said the company’s “broad-reaching yet targeted marketing cam- Advanced Radiance technology, she said, keeps pigments locked, in place and paign” will penetrate the regions Queen is launching to and will be sup- moist. The Light Lenses allow light to come in and interact with the skin — they ported by print, radio and grassroots efforts. At-shelf educational tools will are translucent. help consumers choose what items are best for them. Queen Latifah will The new liquid makeup will be merchandised along with the compacts in bou- appear in marketing materials at point of purchase, as well as in print ads. tiques within the Cover Girl wall, Drosos said, where “we can talk to women Wall space required to merchandise the line, which includes more than 60 35-plus.” items, varies by retailer. But Drosos assured that, since Queen looks to grow The two items, which seem similar, are completely different. “The com- category sales rather than cannibalize existing ones, retailers have com- pact works to exfoliate skin and reveal new skin in less than three weeks. mitted to allotting 1 to 2 extra feet of space in as many as 3,000 doors. The finish is more powdery. The liquid is more of a dewy finish and takes While Queen will compete against other ethnic lines, such as Black Radiance, years off your age,” Drosos said. Black Opal, Posner, Milani, Tropez, Uptown Girl, Zuri and Prestige, the reason- In lip, Cover Girl is getting in on the lip-plumping craze with ing behind bringing Queen to market was solely to meet women’s unmet beauty IncrediFull, a lip range consisting of 24 shades designed to “provide in- needs — not to jump on the celebrity-endorsement bandwagon. tense moisture with a Vita-Collagen complex with vitamins E, B3, B5 “Even [Cover Girl’s] palette wasn’t broad enough,” Drosos pointed out. LashExact and glycerin,” said Vickery. P&G studies showed that 84 percent of con- “This was a great opportunity to offer more.” sumers believed their lips looked fuller instantly, she said. While many Drosos, an 18-year P&G veteran who most recently worked on Olay, lip plumpers work by irritating the lip — causing blood flow and, subse- assumed her current role four months ago. Now, charged with the innovation for all four quently, fuller lips — Vickery said that “over time, this destroys the con- beauty brands (, Cover Girl, SKII and Olay), it may be safe to assume she’s the dition of the lip.” IncrediFull looks to hydrate lips with Olay technology, building an person responsible for P&G’s recent combination of Cover Girl and Olay technology. occlusive barrier. Formulas also act as a humectant to pull moisture out of the at- Advanced Radiance, the new Cover Girl brand that taps Olay science to target mosphere. IncrediFull will be supported by a national print and TV campaign fea- older women, launched in August with a compact foundation. Now the firm’s best- turing Molly Sims. Its bullet tube package will provide a glimpse of the inside shade selling compact, according to Drosos, Advanced Radiance Age Defying Liquid with a color button on the bottom of tubes. IncrediFull will retail for $6.49. Makeup, is coming to market and is formulated to take five years off the look of skin In the eye category, Cover Girl is unveiling LashExact, a mascara that looks to following application. Industry sources expect the liquid item, which will retail for plump, as well as separate, lashes. The traditional mascara brush, Vickery explained, $9.99, to generate $25 million in first-year sales. is made of twisted wire with tufts of trimmed nylon. These “don’t do a good job of pen- Explained Vickery: “The way it works is with our Fixed Fluid Film and Light Lenses. etrating, but they do volumize and lift. They don’t separate very well. Lash Exact The age of the skin and how old it looks is determined by brightness and contrast. As we intentionally places bristles in parallel rows for a dual-combing action to evenly age, brightness decreases, and contrast goes up in the form of age spots and fine lines. A apply mascara.” good age-defying foundation will work to boost brightness and decrease contrast. Both Incredifull and LashExact could generate as much as $30 million in combined Traditionally, what has been on the market covers contrast, or uses light-reflecting tech- first-year sales, sources said.

Select Cosmedicine Cosmedicine: Klinger’s Prescription for Skin Care products from Klinger Advanced By Molly Prior products will bow this February in KAA’s 12 spa locations Aesthetics. and in Sephora doors chainwide. NEW YORK — As an antidote to the bulging skin care To reaffirm Cosmedicine’s “Truth Is Beauty” positioning, market, Sephora will prescribe an over-the-counter- Klinger recruited Johns Hopkins Medicine to consult on grade collection for its product mix. This spring, the clinical trials and quantitatively measure product benefits. retailer will clear room for Cosmedicine, a skin care The end result is an 18-item line tailored to eight regimen developed by Klinger Advanced Aesthetics that “skin states,” namely, Basic Skin Health, Excessive is formulated with over-the-counter actives. Dryness, Excess Oiliness, Rough or Uneven Texture, “Skin care has become so confusing,” said Betsy Olum, Loss of Elasticity, Fine Lines & Wrinkles, UV Damage & senior vice president of marketing for Sephora, referring Discoloration and Sun Protection. Sephora will use to the increasingly crowded category. She said Sephora these skin states to organize its Cosmedicine display, wanted to break through the clutter with a collection that which will occupy six feet in most stores and three feet contains safe ingredients and delivers measurable results. in smaller formats. Color-coded sections will direct shop- The aim, said Jane Terker, KAA’s chief marketing offi- pers to the appropriate products for their skin state. cer, is to “tell the truth about what products really do.” The The retailer will also outfit 11 of its stores with WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 7

WWD.COM Bare Escentuals Works the Night Shift Leslie Blodgett NEW YORK — Leslie Blodgett wants to ny rev up sales with her first appearance start a nighttime beauty revolution. in 1997. Staying awake at night trying to Blodgett, the president and chief ex- Critical Mass figure out how to get Bare Escentuals ecutive officer of Bare Escentuals, products into shoppers’ hands, Blodgett hopes women will “stop wearing their By Faye Brookman became a TV shopping junkie. Her seg- husbands’ T-shirts to bed and [instead] ments on QVC have attracted a cult fol- buy beautiful lingerie and high thread- lowing. She personally answers e-mails count sheets.” She suggests they can imperfections and fresher, brighter skin. and names products after customers. stop slathering on heavy creams and In a controlled independent laborato- Blodgett appeared last month on QVC’s adopt her new skin regimen called ry study with women ages 30 to 46, near- Today’s Special Value segment and sold RareMinerals Skin Revival Treatment ly 84 percent of the sample said the 166,170 units in one day, a new beauty Night. She’s even donned a silky negli- product made their skin feel softer, record, according to QVC. gee at a press party heralding the debut smoother and refreshed after three Bare Escentuals’ sales at its own retail of RareMinerals to hammer home her weeks. More than 80 percent claimed to boutiques and specialty stores such as point. have clearer skin, fewer visible imper- Sephora are flourishing. There are cur- An offshoot of her company’s success- fections and less discoloration. Nearly rently 29 boutiques that Blodgett feels ful BareMinerals, a mineral makeup line, 90 percent said their skin was less dry. help build the brand without cannibaliz- RareMinerals is applied before going to Another unusual component of ing from sales at Sephora, Ulta or QVC. sleep and is said to deliver smoother, RareMinerals is a patented pillow puff ap- “This brand is all about word of mouth. brighter and healthier skin overnight. plicator. The puff helps users apply just the People see me on TV and go to a store “And it makes you more attractive when right amount of powder. There is even a where they can get the full experience you go to bed. My husband is happy,” mirror on the top of the container so it can and learn how to swirl, tap and brush. In quipped Blodgett. be applied at bedside. our boutiques, we send people to other RareMinerals was a pet project of RareMinerals will bow next April ex- stores that might have a bigger selection Blodgett, who, in her quest for innovative clusively in Sephora. In May it will roll out of what they want,” explained Blodgett. products, discovered the beauty benefits to Bare Escentuals boutiques, QVC and She hopes to open between 10 to 20 of soil from organic farms. other retailers stocking Bare Escentuals. stores next year and has intentions of giv- The organic soil mineral concentrate The suggested retail price is $60 and there ing them a fresh look that could include a was formulated to be absorbed deep are four shades — clear, light, medium wall of customers’ pictures. within the skin to promote exfoliation and dark. Blodgett said RareMinerals can Her relationships with fans have been a and cell turnover, while reducing the ef- be used with other nighttime products or hallmark to Bare Escentuals’ growth; and Bratz. Sales and marketing functions fects of acne, redness from rosacea and alone. She isn’t ruling out expanding the items are often named after users. will be merged to provide a more efficient hyperpigmentation. In addition to the or- franchise to include other night products, Blodgett also has taken note of inquiries operation, added Chen in a telephone in- ganic soil mineral concentrate, perhaps for men. from women with lupus who use the prod- terview. “We are very customer-oriented RareMinerals includes vitamins C and A, Blodgett said RareMinerals was a logi- ucts to even out their skin tones and she and this aggressive reorganization will be antioxidants and anti-inflammatory fac- cal step for her firm since so many women hopes to work on a beauty kit especially for the best for our partners.” tors. “We like to say you wake up with the love the fact that BareMinerals can be the 1.5 million Americans suffering from Retailers welcomed the streamlined skin you were born with,” said Blodgett. worn to bed. The franchise is riding high, the disease. Bare Escentuals is expanding effort and said it would eliminate inter- Additional benefits, she added, are the with total sales exceeding $200 million in in foreign markets, particularly in Japan, nal competition within the company and reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, an 2005, according to industry estimates. where it is a hit on the local QVC.The a better sharing of the firm’s expertise. increase in skin firmness and elasticity, BareMinerals is often the best-selling growth frenzy of the brand is enough to “Now all of their great ideas can be used increased skin hydration, a reduction in beauty line on QVC, a partner that make Blodgett tired…but at least she’ll go across the board,” said a senior buyer the appearance of pigmentation spots or Blodgett credits with helping her compa- to sleep looking beautiful. for a drug chain. Another source said it ●●● will make it easier to deal with one or two people who can handle all their Markwins International, a company that Markwins orders. Koeppl added the new has grown over the past five years via ac- organization will foster more cross-mer- quisitions, has announced the integra- chandising opportunities for retailers tion of its two value divisions. Markwins across Markwins’ portfolio, a fact he be- Beauty Products and Markwins lieves could have a big impact on new International Cosmetics have been con- plannograms and holiday 2006. solidated into Markwins North America. Koeppl said the company has many James R. Koeppl, former senior vice growth opportunities, especially in the president/general manager of Markwins cosmetics bag business with its recently Beauty Products, has been elevated to acquired SOHO business, as well as fur- president of the new cosmetics division. ther growth potential for the value- Koeppl is well-known and respected branded Wet ‘n’ Wild. In particular, with the retail trade community. Added Markwins’ executives pointed to a strong Eric Chen, company chairman and ceo, early acceptance of a new Wet ‘n’ Wild “We believe he is the best leader for us skin care brand called Fresh Face. The and has the best understanding of the company did report that an early project business.” with Victoria Jackson to market a mass Markwins North America will inte- market line had been terminated. grate the company’s brands such as Wet Chen would not comment at press RareMinerals Skin Revival Treatment Night ‘n’ Wild, SOHO, Black Radiance and time on any reduction of staff based on Tropez with the Color Workshop, Jonel the consolidation of functions.

Klinger’s diagnostic machine, which analyzes the skin But for all its potency, Cosmedicine is not about utive officer Richard Rakowski from when he served as and recommends products accordingly. To fete the roll- trumpeting star ingredients, noted its chief formulation president at American Healthways Inc., a provider of out, Sephora will dress its windows with a Cosmedicine officer Mark Potter, who is also a meteorologist. “The disease management and health care services, display that plays up the “Truth Is Beauty” message. skin is too complex for buzzwords, like ‘green tea,’ ” explained Fred Brancati, professor of medicine and True to their medical bent, Cosmedicine product declared Potter, adding that healing and treating skin epidemiology and director of the Division of General names sound much like a health care plan: Primary requires a multifaceted approach, which relies on an Internal Medicine at the Johns Hopkins University Care Multi-Tasking , Opti-mologist Eye intricate set of ingredients formulated in a specific way. School of Medicine. He added that KAA approached Cream With Light Diffusers, Hydra Healer Maximum For instance, Potter explained that Cosmedicine’s Johns Hopkins to standardize product testing and train- Strength Moisture Cream and Private Nurse Recovery Medi-Matte Oil Control Lotion masks oil by creating an ing within each of its facilities. “The plan is to continue & Repair Cream PM, a nighttime treatment said to optical illusion and reduces sebum by making it more to focus on objective results,” said Brancati. improve skin elasticity by 32 percent in eight weeks. The volatile so that it “flashes off ” the skin. Cosmedicine marks the company’s latest effort to cream contains crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, an Potter channeled his meteorologist experience to reposition KAA (formerly known as Georgette Klinger) ingredient found in several prescription wrinkle fillers. formulate the line’s two sunscreens, Global Health SPF into a one-stop shop for beauty and cosmetic enhance- Products range in price from $28 for the Full 30 for face and body. When tested in a 90-degree “sweat- ment. This May, KAA plans to open locations in Beverly Benefits Lip Plumper, Hydrator and Exfoliator to $85 box” the waterless formulas stayed put — no dripping or Hills and Chevy Chase, Md., and another location in for the MegaDose Skin Fortifying Serum PM With running — for eight hours, noted Terker. “We’ve created North Park, Tex., in June. Retinol. Neither KAA nor Sephora would comment on a sunscreen that does feel like a sunscreen,” said Potter. The company has also begun developing a prescrip- sales, but industry sources forecast Cosmedicine will Johns Hopkins’ involvement stems from the univer- tion version of the skin care line that will be sold in generate more than $20 million in first-year retail sales. sity’s relationship with KAA’s chairman and chief exec- dermatologist offices. PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE 8 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM Salons to Define Toni&Guy’s Future

NEW YORK — Bruno Mascolo, chairman and chief executive officer of Toni&Guy USA, attempted to enter the U.S. professional arena two times before he finally found success with one Dallas-based salon in 1985. With help from two of his brothers, Guy and Anthony; his wife, Kyara, and a supportive executive team, Toni&Guy USA has grown into a $270 million business, consisting of 50 Toni&Guy salons across the country, six training academies and very successful hair care (Bed Head and Cat Walk), cosmetics (Bed Head), skin care (Unleashed) and styling tools (Hardcore) lines. Here, Mascolo discusses the company’s growth plan, his greatest concern in the salon arena and what it would take for him to sell the company. —Andrea Nagel

WWD: Toni&Guy consists of three main divisions, sa- ers were also launched. We are in about 30 percent of lons, academies and products. Where is each division the market. headed in 2006? Product has tremendous opportunities because Bruno Mascolo: We are changing our business design. TIGI is global. We can expand into different lines. The In 2006 we want to put our energy into expanding acad- percentage of total company sales based upon project- emies and opening new company-owned and fran- ed 2005 revenue within each division is 73 percent chised salons. The academies will be instrumental in from products, 26 percent from salons and 1 percent staffing the salons. We are getting together a franchise from academies. [Getting into profes- package for the acade- sional hair] color is a consid- mies, and we may be ac- eration. quiring some. Salon ex- pansion in 2007 will be be- WWD: Why were you unsuc- tween 15 and 25 new sa- cessful the first several lons. Some of our salons times you tried to con- are company-owned and quer America? others are owned by the B.M.: I was raised in stylists, making them London, but when I came partners. here on a Sebastian tour I The first academy fell in love with America. opened in Dallas in We had a shop in London, 1990. We have six at so I saved up money to the moment, one in start a business here. I New York, one in Los saved $40,000 and, unfortu- Bruno Mascolo Angeles, two in nately, met the wrong peo- Phoenix, one in ple who advised me on the ers is how we structure ourselves internally. We once Colorado Springs, wrong things. The money was wasted had a marketing and sales director. I changed that and Colo., and one in Erie, Pa. It away. Then I saved more money and made the job two separate jobs. Marketing was being is a more difficult business came back again a lot wiser. Then I influenced by the marketing-sales director who would to operate because of govern- met even more clever people and see ideas in the marketplace, which basically if it’s al- ment regulations. We are ac- Above, TIGI’s newest hair care line, S-Factor. lost money, too. The third time my ready in the marketplace it is not innovative. We look countable to three government Below, TIGI’s cosmetics line, Bed Head. brothers weren’t prepared to sup- to department stores and makeup stores and even agencies: the Department of port me, so I sold my house and car wine bottles for different ideas. That’s a reason I think Education, the Texas Department of Licensing and and came back and by using my own money made a we have been able to maintain our innovation. Regulation and our accrediting agency, ACCSCT. commitment not to be humiliated again. The first two Complying with government standards can be quite times I came here I wanted to open schools in Los WWD: What do you think are the ramifications of difficult, as we must maintain specific standards for Angeles. The third time I had no choice but to open a Wella’s decision to sell direct to salons? each agency. As we are accountable to these agencies, salon because that was what I knew how to do. B.M.: I think it will be damaging to the distribution we are privy to inspections, reviews and audits. channel. The fear will be that L’Oréal will do it Understanding the regulations, standards and re- WWD: Toni&Guy is a family business. Who next. I am very loyal to distributors. I am a quirements is difficult to keep up with because they owns what? family of the salon world. I don’t want to crit- are changing all the time. B.M.: First, Toni&Guy is named after icize, but that is not something I am inter- Toni Mascolo and Guy Mascolo, the ested in. We’ve had distributors help WWD: Growing by almost 25 salons a year is a change two eldest Mascolo brothers who us to get us where we are now. There for you, no? started the company. Me, Guy and is always a way to redesign a busi- B.M.: About four years ago, we grew aggressively, Anthony own TIGI Global, ness. You don’t just have to cut opening 10 to 12 salons a year. We pulled back to make which is all of the products, in- them out. The dynamic of manu- sure our infrastructure was at scale with the growth of ternationally, as well as facturers buying smaller guys the overall company to maintain the quality of our Toni&Guy salons and acad- has happened. It has hap- hairdressing. Now, each salon generates more than $1 emies in the U.S., Canada pened with distributors, million per year on average. Some 15 percent of that is and South America. too. Next, you’ll find dis- from product. The retail area is very important. Toni, who lives in tributors buying manu- London, owns Toni&Guy facturers. Like BSG, WWD: And what about products? academies and salons and which is owned by Alberto- B.M.: When we first started making products it was al- the Toni&Guy brand in the Culver, just bought Nexxus. most like a need. We were doing shows for different rest of the world. Global sales of manufacturers and couldn’t get results from their Toni&Guy are about $400 million. WWD: What is your biggest con- products so it became a necessity to cocktail products. We separated in 2002. We had cern in the professional hair care Eventually, we created our own. We didn’t have much been together for four years. Toni’s industry? money and went to a house that customized product children had grown up and he wanted B.M.: I think the biggest concern is diver- and we told them we would pay them after we sold the to bring his kids into the business. A family sion of product. You work hard to establish products. That was TIGI Linea Classic. It was very business is great but we wanted to maintain the business, then the salons divert it and it basic, not sexy. We sold it to salons by educating styl- our family relationship. creates a negative in the industry. T&G is very ists. Kyara came on board and helped create the TIGI strict and works very hard and manages, hires makeup line, which looked cooler than our wet line. WWD: Is there pressure being one of the only pri- investigators, codes products, etc., to control it. So she changed TIGI Linea Classic and created Bed vately owned hair care companies left? Head in 1997. Bed Head Stick, a stick that created the B.M.: We have been copied because of our innova- WWD: Rumors are that Toni&Guy is for sale. grunge look from Seattle, was sent to celebrities and it tion, which is really flattering. But being inde- B.M.: We talked to an investment group. We get peo- was put on the map. Bed Head is a funky, cool line. Cat pendent, you are in control of your destiny. I don’t ple that approach us on a regular basis. If the right Walk, another hair care line, is more sophisticated. have to do something just to make numbers. It al- person comes around with a strategic partnership The newest hair care line is S-Factor, which targets lows us to be who we are and we can move a lot where we maintain the creativity and also have more the young, thinking adult. The quality of the product is quicker than others. If there was a way to combine funds, there is always something that is there. phenomenal. We did not spare any money in formulas. the big business end with entrepreneurial This year we launched body care, a collection that spirit, that would be ideal. Then you could WWD: Would you want to stay on board if the started out as a promotion in 2004 and was very suc- touch the and build a business. company is sold? cessful. Brushes, irons and different types of blow-dry- One of the things that separates us from oth- B.M.: Oh yeah. I love it. BEAUTYBIZ

February Issue WWD February Issue It’s all about who you DON’T know.

WWDBeauty Biz delivers an exclusive inside look at Save the next generation of beauty industry stars. the Date Reach the beauty elite at the annual CTFA conference and set the stage for your success in Issue Date: 2006. February 10 Close: Bonus Distribution: CTFA, CEW Events, 7th on Sixth January 6 A Closer Look: Color Cosmetics The It List: Beauty Photographers

For information on advertising, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher beauty and marketing WWDMediaWorldWide, at 212-630-4656. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 WWD.COM Media/AdvertisingX Sell-Through Still on a Slide By Jeff Bercovici MAGAZINE SELL-THROUGH 2005, FROM TOP TO BOTTOM NEW YORK — It was another good year to be in the business of shredding, recycling or otherwise dispos- TITLE AVG. NEWSSTAND SALE DRAW 2005 SELL-THROUGH RATE vs. 2004 RATE ing of unsold magazines. Cosmopolitan 1,993,257 2,872,429 69.4% -1.4% Poor efficiency of single-copy sales has long required American magazine publishers to rely on usually dis- In Style 853,863 1,578,320 54.1% -5.6% counted subscriptions for a majority of their circulation. Cosmogirl 418,973 853,276 49.1% 5.8% The average sell-through rate for monthly magazines appears to have declined even more in 2005, based on a Glamour 935,552 2,018,018 46.4% -1.1% sample of titles in the fashion, beauty, teen and men’s Vanity Fair 383,271 829,724 46.2% -0.1% categories. Median sell-through in 2005 for the maga- zines in this sample was 40.7 percent — above the indus- Men’s Health 482,975 1,068,317 45.2% -0.4% try average of 34 percent, but down from last year’s 41.7 Vogue 426,420 954,645 44.7% -3.6% percent. Those numbers are based on data drawn from the statement of ownership, management and circula- Marie Claire 508,350 1,142,572 44.5% -5.5% tion every magazine is required to publish once a year. Teen People 443,836 1,021,867 43.4% 1.5% Why do more than half of the copies sent to news- stands end up as returns? “I think one of the main reasons is the attractiveness of W 37,113 86,376 43.0% -3.7% subscription offers,” said Dan Capell, president of Capell & Associates, a circulation FHM 392,286 933,444 42.0% -3.6% consultancy. “All you have to do is open a direct-mail pitch to get an offer for 70 per- cent off the cover price. What does that tell a consumer? That you’ve got to be an idiot Harper’s Bazaar 170,875 417,099 41.0% -2.8% to buy a copy at the newsstand.” GQ 226,102 564,908 40.0% 2.8% And what newsstand buyers there are seem to be focusing their dollars on celebrity weeklies such as Us and People. “They have all the primary positions at the checkout,” Seventeen 336,251 859,875 39.1% 1.3% said Capell. “It appears as if they are taking away sales from the rest of the industry.” Esquire 107,025 274,890 38.9% -4.0% Cosmopolitan topped the 26 titles in WWD’s sample, with a sell-through rate of 69.4 percent, versus 70.8 percent last year. Cargo brought up the rear, with a sell-through Jane 136,767 356,505 38.4% 4.6% rate of just 20.3 percent — a 4.6 percent drop from 2004. Ariel Foxman, editor in chief Elle 268,264 711,675 37.7% 3.4% of Cargo (which, like WWD, is a unit of Condé Nast Publications), said low sell-through is the norm for a Maxim 562,486 1,526,662 36.8% -9.0% new title. “It’s in the best interests of a young magazine Stuff 301,154 828,853 36.3% 0.3% to make sure issues are available everywhere and any- where there may be potential readers,” he said. “This Men’s Journal 85,617 240,146 35.7% 2.2% company is wise in making sure a magazine like ours Lucky 262,300 746,587 35.1% -4.1% has maximum exposure.” (The other magazines at the bottom of the sell-through range — Shop Etc., Ellegirl Details 67,420 213,282 31.6% 0.1% and Teen Vogue — are all recent launches, as well.) Teen Vogue 234,020 767,098 30.5% 1.9% A few magazines improved their sales efficiency markedly this year. Cosmogirl made the biggest climb, Ellegirl 154,563 547,896 28.2% 1.7% hiking its sell-through rate 5.8 percent to 49.1 percent. Shop Etc. 173,098 623,646 27.8% * Maxim made the largest move in the opposite direction; its sell-through rate fell 9 percent to 36.8 percent. “We’re Cargo 72,771 358,274 20.3% -4.6% still the number-one seller by far” in the men’s category, ALL FIGURES FROM PUBLISHERS’ 2004 AND 2005 STATEMENTS OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT & CIRCULATION. said publisher Rob Gregory. He added, “Our newsstand *SHOP ETC. LAUNCHED IN 2004 AND WAS NOT REQUIRED TO FILE A STATEMENT FOR THE YEAR. business has an awesome P&L at that sell-through.”

Renta evening bag from Town & Country’s Pamela Fiori, and a Chanel Beach Bag from Redbook’s Stacy Morrison. Good Housekeeping’s Ellen Levine gave a Versace suit, and Esquire’s David Granger donated a Zegna tuxedo. All of MEMO PAD the items were collected by Regina Russell of Celebrity Closet Raiders and will go up on eBay.com on Saturday. So far this year, Hearst has raised $1.3 POACHING GOOD EGGS: Nowhere million for the United Way. does the old adage “good help is It’s a good way to trim down all that swag they’d otherwise have to lug hard to find” apply more than in the home. “Wherever we go, we’re given such wonderful things. It’s a bit like media world, where underlings go Hollywood,” said Lesley Jane Seymour, editor in chief of Marie Claire, who on to pen tell-all romans à clef, and usually gives castoffs to friends or saves them for her 10-year-old daughter. seasoned editors frequently decamp She donated a Kate Spade clutch. “There’s so much gifting that comes to to competing titles. But the hardest us, it’s nice to be able to give something back during the holidays.” — S.J. position to keep filled seems to be the role of executive assistant. UPPER LIPMAN HIRES: Joanne Lipman has made her first two hires for the The most interesting game of business magazine in development at Condé Nast (which, like WWD, is part of musical assistants of late? Ann Condé Nast Publications). One is internal. Blaise Zerega will be moving over Armstrong, the former personal from Wired to be managing editor of the new magazine. Lipman has also assistant to Martha Stewart, who tapped the first of her two deputy editors: Jim Impoco, Sunday business editor had to testify at her boss’ trial of The New York Times. Prior to joining the Times, he was an assistant following Stewart’s sale of her ImClone stock, was just hired by Stephen Drucker, the new managing editor at Fortune. — S.J. editor in chief of House Beautiful. Armstrong starts on Monday. And who is filling her old post at Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia these days? That would METROSEXUAL MIX-UP: Was there a special be Sharon McCauley, who until a few months ago assisted Steve Florio at Condé Nast. (Stewart celebrity guest at S.I. Newhouse Jr.’s annual Condé evidently became better acquainted with McCauley while working on Florio’s lecture series at Nast Christmas lunch Wednesday? In the New New York University’s Stern School of Business this fall — Stewart gave the keynote address.) York Post’s coverage of the event, mixed in among Meanwhile, Drucker, who created the “Sunday Styles” section at The New York Times more the headshots of Anna Wintour, David Remnick, than a decade ago before becoming an editor in chief at MSLO, has poached two other Cindi Leive and other Condé editors was actor employees from his old stomping grounds. Jonathan Chernes, most recently director of retail Chris Klein, star of “Election” and “American Pie” operations at MSLO, joins House Beautiful as managing editor on Dec. 5. And Barbara de Wilde, and ex-fiancé of Katie Holmes. Next to Klein’s the former design director of MSLO, starts a week later as House Beautiful’s new design director. photo was the name of Dan Peres, editor in chief Drucker also has hired Barbara King, founding editor of the “Home” section of the Los of Details. Peres is also tall and dark-haired, and Angeles Times, as executive editor. She starts on Dec. 19. House Beautiful’s first full issue was until recently engaged to his own actress, under Drucker’s new team will be March. — Sara James Sarah Wynter (they’re now married). And if that weren’t enough to confuse the photo editors at HEARST’S HEART SLEEVES: The Hearst Corp. continues its fund-raising drive for the United the Post, Peres and Klein co-hosted a party in Way this weekend with an online auction of designer goods donated by company editors and September at Saks Fifth Avenue, where they executives. posed together for photographers on the red Harper’s Bazaar’s Glenda Bailey donated a Donna Karan ivory coat and a black Fendi Spy carpet. Said Peres, “Better Chris Klein than Chris PHOTO BY LARRY BUSACCA/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY bag; there’s a Dolce & Gabbana dress from Seventeen’s Atoosa Rubenstein; an Oscar de la Farley, no?” — Jeff Bercovici Dan Peres and Chris Klein 12/3 HOLIDAY T 10/22 BEAUTY T 5/7,11/5 LIVING T 4/2, 10/8 DESIGN T 3/19, 5/21, 9/24, 11/19 TRAVEL T 3/12, 9/17 MEN’S FASHION T 2/26, 8/27 WOMEN’S FASHION T 2006: IntroducingT Holiday, a celebration of the season. The latest addition to the T Luxury lifestyle magazines.

ISSUE DATE: Sunday, December 4. ADVERTISERS: Call now to become a part of this stunning success story. Fourteen perfect-bound T issues a year. Contact your account representative or Seth Rogin, Group Director, at (212) 556-1437 or log on to www.nytmediakit.com. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 WWD.COM Nov. Comps: Uneven Surprise NOVEMBER SAME-STORE SALES

NOVEMBER OCTOBER SEPTEMBER

2005 2004 2005 2005 % Change % Change % Change % Change

DEPARTMENT STORES

Bon-Ton -0.9 5.4 -2.2 -7.8 Dillard’s 1.0 -3.0 8.0 -1.0 Federated -3.4 -1.4 -0.7 1.3 Gottschalks 0.5 -8.1 -1.4 -0.5 ’s -0.1 0.0 6.2 -0.2 Neiman Marcus 4.0 8.4 7.0 9.6 Nordstrom 2.8 3.1 6.4 4.1 J.C. Penney 3.6 12.0 2.4 1.4 Saks Dept. Store Group 2.3 -0.6 -0.1 4.3 Saks Fifth Ave. Enterprises -2.3 6.8 10.0 2.0 Stage Stores 4.6 6.0 14.9 -2.6 Average: 1.1 2.6 4.6 1.0 By Meredith Derby The company said in a recorded call that 10 million people visited its stores during 5 a.m. and 11 a.m. on SPECIALTY CHAINS NEW YORK — November comps were a reversal of for- Black Friday. Big sellers included computers, dolls, tune at retail as several of the top-hot performers, such portable DVD players and video games. Abercrombie & Fitch 23.0 2.0 31.0 21.0 as the high-end department stores, posted surprisingly Mark Rein, senior manager of consultancy Aéropostale 7.3 4.1 -2.5 -4.2 weak results while other retailers watched their same- Capgemini’s global retail practice, chalked up the diverse American Eagle 1.7 24.3 17.3 13.0 store sales soar. November comp results within sectors to varied ap- Ann Taylor 12.9 -8.3 1.2 -2.7 The retailers who delivered more robust results had proaches to promotions — discounters are famous for successful promotions over the Thanksgiving weekend Black Friday specials while luxury stores tend to shy Banana Republic -5.0 -3.0 -8.0 -7.0 to thank. away from heavy promotions. To that end, analysts agree Bebe 4.2 23.2 2.1 12.3 Overall, November’s results show that holiday could that it’s too early to worry about luxury spending tapering Buckle 0.3 -0.4 4.3 -1.4 prove to be unpredictable. Analysts, however, remain off after just one month of lower-than-usual sales results. Caché -1.0 3.0 11.0 6.0 optimistic that spending will ratchet up in the weeks “What you’re seeing here is some stores that have leading to Christmas, and at least be decent in the com- done well all year that have discipline that were not Cato 4.0 3.0 9.0 1.0 bined November-December sales period. going to get into this promotional frenzy,” said Rein, Charming Shoppes 9.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 One of the standouts in November was Wal-Mart dis- who visited the Mall of America in Bloomington, Minn., Chico’s FAS 11.8 8.6 17.9 15.8 count stores’ 3.8 percent same-store sales increase, on Black Friday, where the busiest stores were Apple, Christopher & Banks -3.0 -3.0 -2.0 -1.0 which beat Target’s 2.6 percent gain for the first time in Coach and Urban Outfitters. more than 20 months. Conversely, with comps down 2.3 “I think a lot of the people who go out in November, es- Citi Trends 26.0 0.9 37.0 19.5 percent, Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises posted its first pecially on Black Friday, are the bargain shoppers. And I Claire’s 5.0 3.0 8.0 8.0 negative comp in more than two years. think that some of these retailers that have been up all CVS 7.0 27.0 7.8 7.3 “These [November] results were perhaps uninspir- year are trying to shake that curve to kind of spread out Deb Shops NA -1.8 12.8 13.5 ing, but were not disappointing enough to cast gloom revenue a little more evenly across the entire year, instead over prospects for holiday sales,” said John Lonski, of relying more heavily on the fourth quarter,” said Rein. Dress Barn 10.0 4.0 10.0 6.0 chief economist with Moody’s Investors Service, who He cited American Eagle as one who has not focused Gap (U.S. stores) -5.0 -1.0 -3.0 -3.0 follows same-store sales at 60 retailers, including elec- on discounts as much as rival Aéropostale, whose store at Goody’s Family Clothing -4.8 -0.6 2.5 -5.5 tronics stores. November’s results were “in-line with ex- the Mall of America Rein described as “a mob scene” on Guess 15.8 0.5 12.3 14.2 pectations of perhaps a somewhat slower rate of growth Black Friday. Aéropostale said in a recorded call that for holiday sales compared to a year ago,” he said. November’s sales were driven by the Friday and Saturday Hot Topic 0.0 -8.0 -5.7 -5.6 Nordstrom Inc. and the Neiman Marcus Group, two after Thanksgiving, when comps that week rose in the 30 Limited Brands 5.0 -5.0 -3.0 -2.0 luxury retailers that had been posting robust comps for percent range. Aéropostale cited strength in men’s and Mothers Work 4.0 -11.6 1.7 1.9 the past two years, clocked November gains of 2.8 and 4 women’s denim, women’s sweaters and jewelry. New York & Co. 12.9 -0.4 4.7 -0.4 percent, respectively. And usually strong Federated American Eagle said in a recorded call that it expected Department Stores posted a 3.4 percent decline in higher sales during the last week of the month. Sweaters Old Navy -2.0 -5.0 -6.0 -7.0 November comps at its Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s stores. underperformed, the company said, while denim, knit Pacific Sunwear 3.0 2.7 7.9 5.3 Meanwhile, J.C. Penney Co. continued its turnaround, tops, outerwear and gift card sales were strong. Talbots 3.3 -0.5 -0.3 -5.1 posting a 3.6 percent rise — its best in five months. American Eagle also lowered its fourth-quarter earn- In the specialty channel, there were also some sur- ings-per-share projection to 70 cents to 72 cents, includ- United Retail 5.0 11.0 11.0 4.0 prises. Aéropostale Inc. had a better-than-expected 7.3 ing a 2 cent tax charge, from a prior estimate for 73 Walgreens NA 11.4 6.5 7.7 percent rise in comps, while competitor American Eagle cents to 75 cents. Analysts are expecting 74 cents. Wet Seal 51.5 -19.5 46.6 44.9 Outfitters Inc. had a slight 1.7 percent increase, com- Lonski credited the “sharply lower” price of gasoline Wilsons -13.8 -3.1 -17.4 -6.6 pared with comps that have been up in the double-digits for the sales boon at some retailers, among them the for the better part of the last year. Meanwhile, Limited likes of Ann Taylor Stores Corp. and New York & Co., Zumiez 18.8 1.8 10.0 10.1 Brands Inc. bounced back from disappointing comps in which each saw comps climb 12.9 percent. The Energy Average: 6.9 1.9 7.1 5.1 recent months with a consolidated 5 percent increase. Information Agency said in a Nov. 28 report that gas Among the 50 retailers tracked by WWD, 33 firms prices at the pump are down 16.9 percent from October. MASS MERCHANTS posted positive November comps, 14 posted declines “That is the deepest such decline in percentage and one, Hot Topic Inc., had comps that were flat with terms on record,” Lonksi said. Retail Ventures 4.7 -5.3 6.7 -2.0 the prior year. With a 6.9 percent average November Retailers and analysts are now turning their atten- Ross Stores 5.0 -2.0 7.0 9.0 comp-store sales increase, the specialty retail sector tion to December to see how sales perform in the two ShopKo -3.9 -4.8 -2.4 -4.6 outpaced mass merchants and department stores, who weeks directly after the Thanksgiving shopping week- Stein Mart -3.6 2.0 1.4 -3.9 each had an average 1.1 percent increase in comps. end. “This is a time for retailers to reevaluate their pro- According to the International Council of Shopping motional plans, if sales fail to meet their expectations,” Target 2.6 3.2 5.7 5.6 Centers, November same-store sales rose 3.5 percent Niemira wrote in his report. TJX Cos. -1.0 2.0 -2.0 0.0 overall, versus a 4.4 percent rise in October and a 1.8 For Lonski: “It’s shaping up to be a decent holiday Wal-Mart (discount stores) 3.8 0.3 3.9 2.6 percent rise in November 2004. In a report released shopping season. I wouldn’t be surprised if we find after Average: 1.1 -0.7 2.9 1.0 Thursday, Michael Niemira, chief economist at the an early December lull that it picks up momentum mov- ICSC, pointed to “market share swapping” as a key ing toward the 25th and it continues through the first November theme. The luxury sector, he said, had its couple weeks of January.” Tally: smallest aggregate performance since April, while also And Chris Donnelly, a partner in Accenture Ltd.’s re- Up 33 27 34 27 noting the flip-flop in results from Wal-Mart and Target. tail practice, also feels optimistic. “Consumer confi- Flat 1 1 0 1 Indeed, Wal-Mart’s comp gain outpacing Target’s dence is up, gas prices are down, the stock market is up. sales increase demonstrated how serious Wal-Mart is There is, via a confluence of all those factors, a wealth Down 14 22 15 21 about promotions and making up for last year’s blunder effect that’s hitting at a very good time,” he said. Total 48 50 49 49 on not being promotional enough early in the season. — With contributions from Liza Casabona WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 13 WWD.COM A Happy Online Holiday Ahead

By Sharon Edelson the men’s and children’s items and also the more special pieces.” And it’s not only luxury sites that are seeing less price resistance. One of NEW YORK — Price is no object for online shoppers this holiday season. Walmart.com’s bestsellers is the Mobi Blu Cube, a 1-inch-square combination MP3 Customers are pointing and clicking on furs, diamonds and designer handbags at player, FM radio and alarm clock for $129. “It’s a trend-forward item,” said Amy Web sites operated by stores ranging from Neiman Marcus to Wal-Mart. Shoppers’ Colella, a Walmart.com spokeswoman. “It’s exclusive to Walmart.com. It can be used rush to the Web is fueling increases in online traffic this holiday season that could top as a charm for a lanyard or a bracelet.” 60 percent for some retailers compared with last year. Walmart.com sells expanded assortments online — over one million products — “Consumers are buying outerwear and furs online,” said Franz W. Weiglein, presi- the majority of which cannot be found in the company’s stores. “Because we have the dent of Bloomingdale’s Direct. “People are buying furs in Texas.” virtual shelf space we can provide a deeper selection,” Colella said. Bloomingdales.com is also selling lots of cocktail rings, long necklaces, cashmere Walmart.com expects to have its best holiday season ever, with over 160 million vis- blazers, brightly colored 100 percent cashmere its to the Web site for the season, a 60 percent increase sweaters from Aqua Cashmere, an in-house label, and over last year’s holiday. “Thanksgiving week traffic handbags from Marc Jacobs, Ugg and Juicy Couture. beat the forecast by more than 25 percent or 25 million Without space constraints, the store’s Web site of- weekly visits for the week,” said Colella. “Cyber fers a wider selection and Internet-only products un- Monday was strong with nearly three million daily vis- available in stores or catalogues. The entire world of its. We anticipate our traffic to climb even further to 25 Juicy Couture for men, women and children can be million to 30 million visits in the weeks of December.” found on Bloomingdales.com, while catalogues sell The company has been aggressively marketing the only Juicy women’s apparel, handbags and accessories. site, with a holiday television commercial now airing There’s only one word to describe the growth in in several markets, and is offering 97-cent shipping on Bloomingdale’s Internet business, which added men’s selected toys and video games to attract shoppers. wear and home products this holiday season: Wal-Mart uses the site to gauge customer interest in “Exponential,” said Weiglein. “The Internet is a vehi- products before putting them in its physical stores. cle that’s very new so everyone is seeing increases, For the holiday season, test products include 100 per- but the magnitude of the increases over the last few cent cashmere throws and flat panel TVs. The Web days has been phenomenal.” site also offers higher-priced merchandise than Wal- While Internet sales represent less than 5 percent Mart stores, including cashmere sweaters from $30 to of total retail sales, the medium is making strides. $40 and a yellow diamond ring for about $10,000. The Online sales for the holiday season are expected to Vivre.com, above, specializes in luxury products. Walmart.com 1.75-carat ring was out of stock on Thursday. rise 25 percent to $18 billion between Thanksgiving features a diamond ring for just under $10,000. Diamonds are on the minds of Sears.com and and Christmas over last year, according to a report Kmart.com shoppers as well. Chris Shimojima, vice from Forrester Research issued Wednesday. president and general manager of Sears Holding According to Nielsen/NetRatings, the number of Customer Direct, said “diamond stud earrings are the unique visitors to 100 online retailers tracked by the serv- champions so far.” The Kmart Web site is selling 0.25- ice jumped 29 percent from last year’s number for the carat earrings for $49.99 and a pair of 0.50-carat ear- day after Thanksgiving. EBay was the top destination for rings is $99.99 on Sears.com. Also on the Sears Web online shoppers on Black Friday with 9.5 million unique site, an opera coat from Apostrophe for $58.99 is sell- visitors, followed by Amazon with 4.6 million. Wal-Mart ing swiftly and cashmere turtleneck sweaters are drew 3.4 million to its Web site and Target, 2.9 million. doing “unbelievably well,” Shimojima said. Gerald Barnes, general merchandise manager of JCPenney.com’s bestsellers fall into two categories, apparel and accessories at Neiman Marcus, said vel- everyday items such as towels and Levi’s jeans, and hol- vet; boots, especially Western and riding boots; dia- iday products. In the latter area, Ride On toys and razor mond jewelry of all types; denim; evening separates, scooters are standouts, said Bernie Feiwus, senior vice and designer sunglasses are resonating with con- president and chief operating officer of J.C. Penney sumers. A designer sale on the Web site offers Dolce & Direct. “They’re buying jewelry and cashmere, but the Gabbana peep toe pumps, regularly $750, for $525; a bigger news is the overall strength of the Internet,” he Chloé silk blouse, regularly $710, now $497, and Tod’s said. “Online continues to grow to be a bigger portion of Charlotte Media handbag, regularly $1,150, now $805. our total business. The growth this year is up 30 percent Saks.com produced its first online holiday catalogue and we expect to hit $1 billion in sales this fiscal year.” this year. The cover shows a pair of Marc Jacobs’ boots traipsing through the snow. Penney’s has made enhancements to its site, which carries 250,000 stockkeeping Saks.com has already sold through over half of the items in the book, including prod- units. It launched a smaller site called JCPGifts.com, with animation and gifts sorted ucts such as a Bose sound docking system and headphones, gourmet gift baskets, fur by price, person and theme. An offer to save $10 off a $50 order appeared on the site collars, fur hats, a Juicy Couture panties set and those snow boots. Denise Incandela, on Thursday. “We’re focusing on assisting the customer in navigating to get to what senior vice president of Saks Direct, said online orders are averaging $400 a pop. they want,” said Feiwus. “It’s an experience that’s not on the core site.” “For fall we are expecting to be 40 to 50 percent ahead of last fall,” said Incandela. Portero, an upscale online auction house, has had a not entirely unwelcome prob- Shoppers started early, the week before Thanksgiving. Saks.com is offering free shipping on lem this year: selling through its inventory. “It’s creating some issues for us because orders of $100 or more. A Saks Sparkles sale broke online on Wednesday promising savings we’re moving through inventory faster than we can refill it,” said Dan Nissanoff, of 25 to 40 percent. Online holiday gift guides refresh themselves to show hundreds of items founder and chief executive officer. “There’s incredible demand out there. Our from cashmere sweaters, jewelry and beauty products to men’s furnishings. “Handbags, biggest challenge is keeping the flow of inventory relative to the demand.” leather jackets and overcoats are starting to sell as a giftable items,” Incandela said. Nissanoff said he’s started talking to luxury firms about buying excess inventory. Vivre.com’s average transaction of $600 has grown slightly since the start of the holiday “Luxury handbag companies are starting to mark down already and we’re peaking,” season, said founder Eva Jeanbart Lorenzotti. Vests — from Adam & Eve’s quilted satin he said. “It’s a good combination. They can use us as a way to move their goods.” number for $225 to Anne Dee Goldin’s white Chekiang lamb style for $1,440 — are big sell- For Portero customers, “handbags continue to be a very hot item as well as higher-end ers. “It’s a huge trend in general,” Lorenzotti said. “It’s become the new accessory.” apparel,” Nissanoff said. “We’ve done exceptionally well with watches and jewelry. We’ve Boots are strong sellers on Vivre.com, which has options such as Borbonese suede boots seen a spike with watches. We have a mixture of new and previously owned goods.” for $1,165, Devi Kroell python boots for $1,950 and Oscar de la Renta suede stirrup boots Traffic to the site has jumped from 8,000 visitors on an average day to “tens of for $850, among others. Chunky jewelry is also a big category for Vivre, Lorenzotti said. thousands of visitors” since Thanksgiving Day, Nissanoff said, noting that average “We’ve been averaging between 20 and 30 percent increases,” Lorenzotti added. selling prices have been slightly higher. Nissanoff said Portero is poised to triple its “Throughout most of the year there’s a lot of self-purchasing. We’ve seen a pickup in volume over the same period last year. Marc Jacobs Welcomes Santa Claus on Bleecker Street NEW YORK — That jingling-tingling feeling swept into in Los Angeles features a similar setup, albeit much Marc by Marc Jacobs on Bleecker Street here Wednes- larger and glitzier. “It’s the Hollywood version of the day evening when Santa Claus made his first appear- same thing,” said Robert Duffy, Jacobs’ business partner. ance in the boutique’s window display. Having Santa in the store has become a tradition for PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Thursdays through Sundays until Christmas, Santa the Bleecker Street store. Since it opened about five will receive children, parents, models, celebrities and years ago, Duffy’s friend, Joe Harding, has been posing other cool downtown types on his lap for a photo oppor- as Santa each year. Ever the charitable one, Santa is tunity, and lend an ear for everyone’s wishes this year. donating his posing fee to the Human Rights The window is filled with oversized candy canes, Campaign. wrapped gifts and, of course, a Christmas tree against a On Tuesday, some kids stormed the Bleecker Street painted mural of a snow-filled town. Each person will be boutique demanding to know where Santa was and what given a candy cane and a copy of the Polaroid, a dupli- the gifts were going to be. Those who miss their photo op cate of which also will be posted in the store’s window. this time don’t have to wait long for another one. “In For the Jewish contingent, the store will have a menorah spring, around Easter, we always have Joe dressed up as on display and special Hanukkah kits for sale. a chicken in the window,” Duffy quipped. Marc by Marc Jacobs’ Santa Claus with Ingrid Shegda, public For the first time, the Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique — Marc Karimzadeh relations director Kate Waters’ four-month-old daughter. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER 14 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 WWD.COM Pol Decries Mexican-Made Uniforms U.S. Furor Over China’s Business Bailout By Kristi Ellis By Evan Clark with private industry that defies all stan- WASHINGTON — Rep. Robin Hayes (R., N.C.), reacting to a report that revealed dards of fair play or free-market princi- U.S. Border Patrol uniforms are being made in Mexico, vowed to reintroduce leg- WASHINGTON — The Chinese government ples,” Johnson added. islation that would require the agency to purchase apparel deemed “sensitive to is giving WorldBest Group Co., a state- Set up in 1992, WorldBest is the result national security” from domestic manufacturers. operated firm that houses the country’s of roughly 90 mergers that ultimately U.S. Customs and Border Protection confirmed that some shirts and pants largest textile and pharmaceutical busi- formed a conglomerate with assets last worn by agents and inspectors are being made in Mexico. The uniforms are sup- nesses, a $618 million bailout that has U.S. year of about $6.9 billion. plied by Nashville-based VF Solutions, a subdivision of VF Corp., which subcon- producers crying foul. Chengtong will become WorldBest’s tracts its work to plants in the U.S. and Mexico, the Associated Press disclosed. The Xinhua News Agency, China’s offi- largest shareholder and play the role of In a statement VF said, “VF Solutions is proud to serve and outfit our U.S. Border cial news service, reported Thursday that investor on behalf of the state-owned Patrol. VF is in full compliance with all aspects of our contractual agreement with the state-owned asset-management com- Assets Supervision & Administration U.S. Customs & Border Protection to provide uniforms for its agents and officers. As pany China Chengtong Group would pro- Commission. a policy, VF does not comment on the business practices of any of its customers.” vide WorldBest with the funds needed to After straightening out its financial prob- Customs & Border Patrol issued a statement maintaining it has strict security halt its financial crisis and manage its lems, WorldBest will focus on pharmaceuti- procedures in place in the U.S. and Mexico, which include audits and unan- debt load of about $3.1 billion. cals, but also will work to improve its global nounced spot checks at facilities where it contracts business. Citing an unnamed source, Xinhua said textile business, said the Xinhua report. In a letter to Homeland Security Secretary Michael Chertoff, Hayes said, “I the move was an effort to increase the gov- According to the firm’s Web site, it has believe we need to take the necessary steps to ensure the federal government is ernment’s share in the most important textile operations in Mexico, Canada, producing sensitive goods, such as U.S. Border Patrol uniforms, in the United companies in key sectors. The report did Thailand and Niger, as well as China, and States to help alleviate this security risk,” referring to concerns over the uniforms not specify the exact nature of the firm’s has been authorized to use Invista’s Lycra made in Mexico falling into the wrong hands. financial difficulties or if they were in the spandex trademark. Hayes asked Chertoff to identify other uniforms that are made outside of the textile part of its business. Ira Kalish, Deloitte Research’s global U.S. and said he would be introducing legislation soon to address the issue. The “This is only the most blatant example director of consumer business, disputed congressman has been a staunch supporter of the Berry amendment, which of the Chinese government’s wholesale the notion that China’s edge in the textile requires the Department of Defense to give preference to domestically produced disregard of free-market principles and its business stems from state involvement. and manufactured products. [World Trade Organization] commit- “That’s not what’s making this industry Under that amendment, the so-called “Buy American” rules are strict when it ments,” Cass Johnson, president of the competitive,” he said. “The competition is comes to procuring apparel and textiles for uniforms. Hayes said his legislation National Council of Textile Organizations, coming from the fact that the industry has would require applying the Berry amendment guidelines to Homeland Security said in a statement. gotten a lot of foreign capital, has invested procurement. When it joined the WTO in 2001, China in dramatically improving its efficiency The amendment provides a significant amount of business for the beleaguered agreed to run state-owned businesses in and is in a position to compete globally. U.S. apparel and textile industry. accordance with the rules of a market It’s in other industries where state subsi- “It is becoming an increasingly important component of the business,” said economy, said Johnson. dies exist, things like steel, chemicals. The Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action “Textile sectors around the world are apparel and textile industry in southern Coalition. “We strongly support Congressman Hayes’ effort to get some accounta- competing against China Inc. — a unique China is globally competitive. It doesn’t bility on this issue. All national security agencies should have strong ‘Buy marriage of Chinese government resources require subsidies.” American’ requirements.”

know they have it. Unabashed about wearing his causes on his sleeve, Cole wore one of the $35 “We All Have AIDS” T-shirts now being sold at such stores Fashion Scoops as Scoop, Theory, Louis Boston, Barneys New York, Holt Renfrew and Kenneth Cole stores, SICK ASHORE: A very pregnant Karen Elson wowed nearly all the guests took over the cabanas at the where he’s “got connections.” Cole noted how, the crowds attending Art Basel Miami Raleigh for a little celebration. Elson was no when Nazis forced Jewish citizens to wear the Wednesday night at a performance by the worse for the wear: “I love you all,” she beamed, Star of David during World War II, King musical group/performance artist collective while raising a glass. Christian X and his court showed solidarity by Citizens’ Band. Elson, who wed White Stripes wearing the star. “Less Jews died in Denmark lead singer Jack White in the summer, was FIRST DIBS: Later this month, the clatter of than in any other country,” Cole said. dressed head to toe in white satin and a waist- stilettos no doubt will be heard heading to the Elizabeth Taylor, Nelson Mandela, Sir Elton length wig of white curls. Along with guest star first Versace Couture sample sale. On Dec. 13- John, Sharon Stone, Tom Hanks and Ashley Judd Rain Phoenix (sister of Joaquin Phoenix of “Walk 16, shoppers will find the designer’s finery at are among the celebrities who lined up for the Line”), Elson and her bandmates, including 260 Fifth Avenue with prices slashed by 60 to photographer Mark Seliger’s group shot, which Sarah Sophie Flicker, Adam Dugas and Chelsea 70 percent. A $152 knee-length purple silk skirt; will appear in 200 publications and on 2,000 Bacon took over the beachfront at the Raleigh a $220 long-sleeve, form-fitting black dress, and buses, billboards and telephone kiosks. A Hotel to present “The Trepanning Opera.” “We a $642 men’s chocolate leather trenchcoat will public art installation featuring a life-sized are playing sick people,” said a radiant Elson be among the items up for grabs — literally. photo on one wall and the celebrities’ post-performance. “I was an albino — or albeeno cemented footprints on the other will be on — however you say it.” Indeed, the cabaret-style COLE’S PUBLIC AID: Natasha Richardson, Harry display in Bryant Park through Jan. 16. staging, brought to Miami by iconoclast gallerist Belafonte and New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg reminded attendees that nearly Jeffrey Deitch and MAC Cosmetics, included a Bloomberg helped Kenneth Cole launch his 25 million people, including 90,000 New hospital bed and doctors’ outfits. Among those company’s “We All Have AIDS” public service Yorkers, have been lost to AIDS. He said he checking out the scene and quaffing buckets of campaign Thursday in Bryant Park. The aim is hoped the PSAs would renew the commitment Pravda vodka and $150-a-bottle champagne to remind the public that at least 90 percent of to stopping the spread of AIDS. “We need Deborah Norville and Henri Barguirdjian were Tara Subkoff and Cynthia Rowley. Later, the people living with HIV/AIDS don’t even partners like Kenneth Cole and all those that helped mount this campaign,” he said. party],” said Henri Barguirdjian, president and chief executive officer of London-based Graff, of CINEMATIC STYLE: At Wednesday night’s the fictional tome about the Regent diamond, screening of the new film “Transamerica,” co- which was made famous by Napoleon host Simon Doonan sang Felicity Huffman’s praises Bonaparte. Fred Wilson, Mario Buatta, Judy Licht, for her portrayal of a pre-op transsexual. “I don’t Dominick Dunne and Deborah Norville hobnobbed like actors; I’m the anti-James Lipton,” the Brit with Graff clients, one of which went away with a confessed to a crowd that included Calvin Klein piece of diamond jewelry in the gift bag. And no, and the film’s director, Duncan Tucker. “But you it wasn’t the Regent. will not believe Felicity Huffman. She gives good tranny.” Still, Doonan felt something was amiss SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY: Bucking the idea that — in particular, Huffman’s character’s misguided a designer’s favorite film must burst with style decisions. “I’m concerned about what she design inspiration, Carolina Herrera’s pick for does to the espadrille,” he said dryly, referring to “Grand Classics: Films With Style” was the white pair Huffman wears in the film that, “Waterloo Bridge.” As divine as Vivien Leigh well, are a long way from Prada. “It was a very and Robert Wagner looked in the black-and- important shoe for us this season and we were white 1940 flick, the designer said she had hoping to have a good spring with it, too.” other reasons for her selection. Before the first of two screenings at the DIAMOND NIGHT: Graff celebrates diamonds every Vogue-sponsored event at Soho House, Herrera Harry Belafonte, Natasha day, but found yet another reason on Wednesday told the audience, “I chose this film not Richardson, Kenneth Cole night when it feted author Julie Baumgold and her because of the fashion, but because it is one and Mayor Michael new novel, “The Diamond.” “The book is about a of the most romantic of all love stories. Like all Bloomberg at the unveiling. beautiful diamond and we are about beautiful romantic films, there is a great tragedy, so I

BELAFONTE PHOTO BY ROBERT STEVE EICHNER BARGUIRDJIAN BY MITRA; diamonds, so I thought it was fitting [to host the hope you brought a handkerchief.” WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2005 15

Sales and Marketing Professional Aleading 3rd Party Logistics (3PL) pro- vider based in Indianapolis, is seeking an experienced, dynamic Sales/Marketing Professional to lead the sales efforts of the company. The main focus of this position is to assist in the growth of the company by selling Accessories the company’s logistics & transportation services. The professional filling this position will drive the development of Merchandiser/Designer new business and work closely with operations to ensure that the company Purchasing Agent is situated to support the growth. Manages Carol’s Daughter is seeking a highly A leading fashion accessories company seeks a dynamic and sales activities including supervision motivated individual with 1 - 5 years of contracts, direct sales, customer rela- purchasing experience in the cosmetics / experienced merchandiser/designer to join our tions, and the generation of new customer packaging &beauty field, preferably handbag division. business. Prepares and delivers sales with a college degree. The ideal candidate materials; attends exhibits and other should have great inter-personal and promotional opportunities. We offer an communication skills. Please Fax or excellent salary and benefit package. E-mail all resumes (as a Microsoft The successful candidate should have extensive leather Word attachment) to Alix Baudin at: sourcing experience, as well as finely-tuned organizational Please Mail or E-mail resumes to: 718-857-1910 / [email protected] PO Box 68097, Indianapolis, IN 46268 skills and fluency in CAD, Illustrator and Photoshop or [email protected] compatible design softwear packages. SALES EXECUTIVE Successful, trendy handbag company Ability to manage entire process from concept to production seeks self-motivated salesperson with Cosmetics Rep a must. Previous bridge experience necessary! Asian travel Chain/Dept./Specialty knowledge. Min. Freelance cosmetic rep. for 3 month of 3-5 years experience. Attractive assignment to travel/train North East. required. Minimum of 5 years experience only! package with excellent benefits. Prestigious new treatment line. Contact Fax resume with salary requirements to: 212-244-5897, Attn: VP Lillian @firestoneassociates.com We offer a generous salary + benefits package. SALES PRO WANTED Please E-Mail resumes to: Established branded children’s sports- wear company seeks sales pro with [email protected] extensive experience. Must be a self starter, motivated and aggressive with strong customer relationships with DESIGNER Designer - Technical Fashion Designer department stores and mid-tier branded needed w/Associate Applied Science markets. KNITS/FREELANCE Degree in Pattern Making & 2 yrs. Fax your salary requirements to Admin Since 1967 Ladies private label seeks a creative exp. to prepare technical packages & Stephanie Rodriguez 212-967-2420 57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. self starter who can initiate and follow Model Development Sheets (MDS) for Soho Penthouse live / work skylights W-I-N-S-T-O-N through on sample development from design team & overseas factories via Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals concept to completion. Must possess Web PDM. Conduct product fitting on Sales Rep - Leg Wear Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 APPAREL STAFFING Int’l Knitting company’s NYC office DESIGN * SALES * MERCH technical knowledge of knit construc- live models & follow up w/eval & com- For Space in Garment Center tion and fit. Fax or email resume to: ment oon proto sample, salesperson looking for self-motivated sales repre- ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION sentative to manage existing accounts (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 212-268-3654 / [email protected] sample & preproductionsamples. Com- Established contemporary missy casual Helmsley-Spear, Inc. municate w/overseas vendors & facto- and aggressively pursue new leads. 212-880-0414 sportswear manufacturer seeks exp’d Must have solid knowledge and rela- Assistant w/Wal-Mart CTL procedures. Designers Decorative ries on a daily basis. Correct & modify Sales Rep w/ established accounts in Position is in NJ; 60K; Work with images. Create & combine pattern de- tionships in Leg Wear field. midtier/specialty stores & private label. E-mail: [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts Sales people/warehouse. Excelllent Products signs & transfer to sketches using Please fax resume (954) 499-1960 Adobe Photoshop program. Develop BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS communication. E-mail resumes to: Leading Manufacturer of Seasonal Great ’New’ Office Space Avail [email protected] design through color correction, fabric INTERNATIONAL SALES MANAGER ; Products is looking to fill two design selection using U4IA program. Imple- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 positions in our Brooklyn studio. Both M.B.A. or equivalent and three years Sales Representative ment artwork in Adobe Illustrator pro- recent verifiable Sales Management Central/South America & Caribbean positions require an appropriate gram & combine them w/U4IA system. degree in either Design or creative experience in the region required and Must have knowledge and strong exp fields and an ability to understand and Mail resumes to: Perry Ellis Menswear, fluency in Spanish and French. Duties: with ladies, men’s and children’s Brand Manager interpret color trends with an aptitude LLC 1114 Avenue of Americas, 36th direct regional sales for manufacturer accounts and have knowledge of the LA-based professional skin care co floor, N.Y., NY 10036. Job location: N.Y.C. and distributor of perfumes and cosmet- various countries market conditions. seeks individual to conceptualize and for hand making and crafting of deco- rative products. ics; negotiate contracts and establish Please e-mail: [email protected] execute new product launches. Develop GRAPHIC ARTIST foreign sales outlets; expedite export or fax 212 842 4004. EOE promotions for professional & consumer Major Accessories Company seeks correspondence, bid requests, and credit audiences. Maintain current product TEXTILE SEWN PRODUCT Assist Head designer in developing experienced Graphic Artist/Designer. collections; oversee conversion of prod- line including packaging/formula up- Particular attn. to Jr. trends. Must be ucts to foreign standards; arrange ship- dates, phase-outs. Inventory planning Tree Skirts, Stockings, & decorative home accessories. Duties include re- proficient in MAC and PC systems. ping details, including export licenses, and unit forecasting. Margin & pricing CAD and freehand illustration exp. customs declarations, and packing, ship- analysis. Strong analytical & creative search and development, sourcing tex- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tiles for new products & designing & Quick pace w/deadline pressures. ping and routing of products; assist in thinker. BA/BS required, min. 2 years Fax resume w/salary history to: preparation of foreign language materi- experience in similar function. prototyping products. Must have PRODUCTIONS knowl of textile design, construction 212-244-5897-Attn: V/P als; expedite import-export arrangements All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Please email resume, cover letter, and maintain current information on Call Sherry 212-719-0622. and fabrication and be able to shop the salary history to: market for fabrics & trims. You will Production Assistant tariffs, licenses, and restrictions; attend [email protected] also be responsible for coordinating trade shows; analyze sales trends and Sweater Mfr. Seeks exp’d organized determine target markets; establish sales PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and visit www.dermalogica.com overseas fabric and yarn sourcing. Exp Individual to process orders, in sewing and embellishing textile quotas and goals; review market analyses PRODUCTIONS Buyer Follow-up on delivery, and must be to determine customer needs, volume Full service shop to the trade. products as well as supervising sample Bilingual in Chinese/English makers a plus. potential, price schedules, and discount Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fax resume to 212-398-3157 rates, and develop sales campaigns; pre- INTIMATE [email protected] ORNAMENTS & pare periodic sales reports. Frequent foreign travel (Africa, Middle-East, Asia, APPAREL BUYER ACCESSORIES PRODUCTS Production Coordinator/ and Central/South America) is required. We are G+G, Rave, & Rave Girl, known Assist Head designer in developing Mail resumes to: Wayne Hammerling, by girls everywhere as the store "where Glass Ornaments, tree trims and ac- Merchandising Liaison Inter Parfums, Inc. 551 Fifth Avenue, real girls get cool clothes at great prices." cessories. Possess a strong interest in Position open in LA / Orange County New York, NY 10176 We are currently searching for an exp’d, color design. Be PC literate in surface area for national music merchandising trend driven Intimate Apparel Buyer to design programs with an understand- co. Experience required with screen support our Rave division. You must ing of packaging concepts. Manual printing and apparel production. Must Marithé + François Girbaud have 4-5 yrs. of progressive exp. in dexterity and the desire to prototype be self motivated and able to manage ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE merchandise buying, including at least 2 new ideas is essential. Duties include time with multiple projects. You will Department Store Sales yrs. exp. in product development. Please extensive correspondence with need to be able to confront problems send your resume to [email protected] sourcing offices concerning the tracing and solve with minimal distress. Good Seeking an experienced Account Exec- for confidential consideration. & expediting high volume of new communication and documentation also utive specializing in department store Check us out at www.gorave.com. EOE items, etc. Must have organizational required. Please forward resumes to: sales for its women’s young contempo- skills, merchandising skills and ability FAX: (512) 989-9241 rary division. Ideal candidate must to prepare visual display of product for have 5 - 10 years sales experience in Cost Technician retailers. designer, contemporary or young Domestic/Import Sportswear Production. contemporary. Premium denim sales Computer costing, knowledge of produc- We offer a challenging growth oppty, Sales Assistant experience a plus. Strong background tion software, experienced in calculat- working on leading national name Est’d. Trim & Accessory Importer/Whole - in sales projections, gross margins and ing yields and determining factory brand consumer products, full bene- saler in Los Angeles seeks an organized retail math. Must have a flair for mer- labors required. Knowledge of import fits, and attractive salary. Please send individual with strong communication/ chandising, store assortments and duties, requirements, and freight rates your resume with salary history to: computer skills. Duties include sales good sales presentation skills. necessary. Great benefits. Variety Accesories, Inc. P.O. Box 4528, follow-up & customer service. Minimum Fax resume to: 212-244-4061 Great Neck, NY 11027, E-mail to: 2 years experience req’d. Please Fax Please Fax or Email your resume to: [email protected], Ref. HR-DGS.ass. all resumes to: 323-981-1869 [email protected] or Customer Service Fax to: 516-773-6057 Fax # 646-459-2633 Women’s Designer 3+ yrs exp data entry, invoicing, EDI implementation. Excellent communi- P/T & F/T Salespeople cation & computer skills, able to multi- Bionova Inc, a cosmetic company task. Fax res & sal req: (212) 768-2358 based on the fundamental Science and Nano-Technology, seeks well organized, highly motivated FT & PT salespeople. DATA ENTRY/ Must have strong verbal skills, strong work ethic, excellent communication, EDI SUPPORT organization & follow-up skills and Seeking an intelligent, motivated, ability to keep accurate records. 3-5 detail-oriented individual who is able years exp. a must. Great work environ- to multi-task. Experience in EDI and ment at an upscale Department store data entry is a must. Email resume to: w/ excellent opportunities for growth. [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected]