Andrea Zittel for Rudi Gernreich ‘Rudi Gernreich’S Designs Challenged the Elitism of the Fashion System by Embracing Comfort, Practicali- Ty, and Accessibility
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ANDREA ZITTEL FOR RUDI GERNREICH ‘RUDI GERNREICH’S DESIGNS CHALLENGED THE ELITISM OF THE FASHION SYSTEM BY EMBRACING COMFORT, PRACTICALI- TY, AND ACCESSIBILITY. RUDI SAID HE WANTED TO CREATE A ‘UTILITY PRINCIPLE’ THAT WOULD TAKE OUR MINDS OFF HOW WE LOOK, ALLOWING US TO FOCUS ON MORE IMPORTANT MATTERS. FOR THIS HE IS MY HERO. AND EVEN THOUGH MY OWN DESIGNS FOR LIVING ARE OFTEN HIGHLY EXPERIMEN- TAL, I INFUSE THEM WITH A SIMILAR PRACTICALITY. FOR INSTANCE, I WEAR A PERSONAL UNIFORM EVERY DAY FOR A SEASON AT A TIME, AND I BELIEVE THAT GARMENTS SHOULD BE DURABLE, COMFORTABLE, AND VERSATILE. BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN THEY CAN’T ALSO BE INSPIRED. SOME OF THE MOST INNOVATIVE ELEMENTS IN GERNREICH’S DESIGNS ARE HIS USES OF PATTERN. IN TRIBUTE, I’VE CREATED A SERIES OF TEXTILE PATTERNS THAT DRAW ON SOCIAL PAT- TERNS, PATTERNS OF DAILY LIFE, PATTERNS CREATED BY NATURAL FORCES, AND PATTERNS DERIVED FROM CREATIVE MANIPULATION.’ ANDREA ZITTEL Andrea Zittel (b.1965, California) is an American artist whose multi-disciplinary practice is an ongoing investigation that explores the questions ‘How to live?’ and ‘What gives life meaning?’ Creating physical spaces, objects, architecture and landscape interventions, her work has been featured at cultural institutions and museums worldwide, as well as at the Venice Biennale and Documenta Kassel. Her ongoing A-Z WEST project is a living installation in the Mojave Desert near Joshua Tree, California. Across her many bodies of work, Zittel draws the viewer in with something seemingly familiar – a bed, a rug, a dress, a minimalist shelving unit — but then presents challenging questions about the systems that generate these feelings of recognition and comfort. Her work provokes us in their constant questioning of what we can live with and without, urging us to consider what truly generates value and meaning in our lives. For her collaboration with Rudi Gernreich, Zittel has designed a balaclava and custom printed box bearing a rendition of the artist’s statement (as above), each hand-signed individually by the artist. Made in a limited edition of only 100 pieces, the extrafine virgin merino wool knitted headwear is fully reversible,showcasing two different digitally-inspired designs in one. The balaclava is one of Rudi Gernreich’s staple design expressions, shown with his coordinated outfits since 1963, at the time to some controversy. Matching balaclavas were key to his bold TOTAL LOOK of 1966 – 1967, both built into capes and coats and as stand-alone accessories. Monochrome iterations featured in this groundbreaking 1970 UNISEX collection, which embodied his new concept of protective PUBLIC PRIVACY: ‘Designs have to become anonymous because the world has become harsh and invasive.’ With military origins, the practical shape and instantaneous anonymity conferred by the balaclava has seen the form not only embraced as streetwear and skiwear, but also becoming a subversive, universally understood symbol of rebellion and revolt. Also in 2021: From April 7 through September 26 2021, Phoenix Art Museum will present FEARLESS FASHION: RUDI GERNREICH, a landmark exhibition organised by the Skirball Cultural Centre, Los Angeles. Original Gernreich designs, documents and newly filmed oral histories from his contemporaries and colleagues come together to provide a broader understanding of the late designer’s life and how his fashion innovation and political activism continues to influence social movements and notions of beauty, gender, and identity. DETAILS: Collectible Art Piece Balaclava by Andrea Zittel for Rudi Gernreich VENDORS: rudigernreich.com, Museum and Gallery Stores Worldwide PRICE: 600 € Limited Artist Edition of 100 SIZE: One Size MEASUREMENTS: 28 cm Wide/ 43.5cm Top to Bottom COLOURWAY: Black/Grey/White Reversible, Two Designs in One MATERIAL: 100% Extrafine Virgin Merino Wool www.rudigernreich.com www.zittel.org.