The Evolution of the Coastline at Peniche And

THE EVOLUTION OF THE COASTLINE AT them, there is no one that points out their differences although they are only 16km away from each other. PENICHE AND THE BERLENGAS ISLANDS This paper aims to contribute to our understanding of (PORTUGAL) - STATE OF THE ART the reasons behind their particularly different histories and evolutions. TERESA AZEVÊDO, ELISABETE NUNES Centro de Geologia, Faculdade de Ciências de Lisboa, Ed. C6, 4º Piso. Campo Grande, 1749-016 Lisboa, Portugal. e-mails: [email protected], [email protected]

Abstract The Peniche peninsula, corresponded before the twelfth century to a coastal island, separated from the continent by a wide erosive navigable channel. The gradual silting up of the mouth of the São Domingos Fig. 1 – Location of the area in the study River built the present sandy isthmus (in PO-RNB, 2007) leading to the human occupation of the island and its huge development as a II. The Lusitanian basin harbour. Its geology and lithology, mainly The Portuguese coastline extends from N to S, about 30 Jurassic limestones showing spectacular to 50km wide by 200km long. Since the beginning of cliffs and carved forms such as lapis, attract the Jurassic and over the Cretaceous periods, there thousands of tourists nowadays. Several formed an extensive sedimentary basin,, the Lusitanian archaeological sites are identified in the Basin. This is an internal intracratonic basin, separated area, such as, shipwrecks, port structures, from an exterior zone by a structural relief, the salt marshes, nurseries, burial deposits, Berlengas Horst – where materials coming from both its anchorages and an amphorae production W and E margins accumulated (fig. 2). In the lower complex. Cretaceous, four distinct paleogeographic domains 16km West of Peniche is the Berlengas (Rey, 1972) made up the landscape of the studied Archipelago; a group of small islands and region: (1) Paleozoic bedrock to the East; (2) Western islets. Their geology is quite different from and Eastern Margins; (3) Mid sedimentary Basin and that of Peniche and the continent. They finally (4) Western Paleozoic Ridge. correspond to Precambrian emerged submarine mountain tops, having their main ones made up of coarse grained red granite, the “Berlengas Granite”. As such, they testify to the ancient bounding of the Gondwana continent before the separation of Europe and America, and represent the limit of a large tectonic trough in the east Fig. 2 – Schematic interpretive profile of the pale (Lusitanian Basin). geographic domains; (1) Paleozoic bedrock; (2) E This paper aims to present the origins of margin; (3) Mid sedimentary Basin; (4) W margin; (5) both sites in order to contribute to our W Paleozoic Ridge (Rey et al., 2006) understanding of the reasons behind their particularly different history and evolution. In the Western ridge, granitic-gneissic reliefs’ bordered a small longitudinal horst rising circa 10km W Key words: Portuguese coast, islands, of the present coastline, in the continuance of the geomorphology, human occupation Berlengas and Farilhões islands which still emerge. During the Liassic and Upper Jurassic it was already an elevated area and all over the Mesozoic it I. Introduction was alternately emerged and submerged. The frequent The origins and human occupation of the Peniche local drainage to the East is related with its emersion. Peninsula on the Portuguese shore, and the Archipelago located close in front of it - “Berlengas Archipelago” - are somewhat two peculiar features in the Portuguese coastline (fig. 1). Even though several papers have been published about each of

Volume2 Number 1, October 2010 Special Issue: 2nd Symposium on Living with Landscapes 13 14 The Egyptian Journal Of Environmental Change Special Issue:2 V olume2 Number1 pcaiy ofrne ad etns ed all in held world. the over meetings presented and numerous conferences communications of speciality theme and the articles been has geology Peniche The 3). Fig. Ma; 183 (about complete most the ICS is sequence, this of record, the geological to presented (UNESCO)as areathe being theon Planet wherethe was Committee Heritage World the to inscription its for proposal the 2008, In international intervals (Venâncio best world’s time Pliensbachian-Toarcian the the the of record transition having as by community scientific considered unanimously lower the The Portugal. of in evolution Jurassic geologic Peniche of years entire million 20 than the more of story, continuous border The a tell Peninsula, that nowadays. cliffs tourists limestone of lapis, thousands as such attracting forms carved and cliffs spectacular a to refer limestones Jurassic mainly of Peniche, composition of lithology and geology The onay s u t te isrtgah suy of study biostratigraphy the to ammonites(Penance al, et 2007). due this is of definition boundary The framework. stratigraphic its Trovão)Penicheand profile the (Pontado Jurassic) in III.1. Geologyandlithology III. i. - h PinbcinTaca (Lower Pliensbachian-Toarcian The - 3 Fig. The Peniche Area n d Sym

, Oct posium onLiving withLandscapes ober 2010 et al ., 2007). ot d Trovão do Ponta showing showing ra is area

III.2. of grazing areas”, grazing of conquest the sought fires, through Man, when BP, years mountains] western central-north horizontal that: shown a have territory Portuguese the in years 6000 with last the over erosion soil in combined action anthropic the of role The been particular (silting), development have level the reasons, these For areas. navigable fluvial the of silting the to leading materials the constitute which soil, of extensions behind leaving mountain the slopes was destroyed action bythe man, of on cover only vegetation The movements. eustatic on depend not does continuously, changing been has which territory,coastal the of morphology However,water. the and land between frontier physical the stable made ago mean the of stabilization The andits huge developmentas a harbour (Dias,2004). isthmus. island sandythe occupationof human the to leading developed present-day the cent 16 the after built Therefore, 4) (fig. River Domingos S. the of mouth the of up silting gradual The the continent by a wide,erosive, navigable channel. from separated island, coastal a to Ages’, century twelfth Middle the during navigatorsby “Phenícies” called Peninsula, Peniche The any n h Mdl Noihc n drn the during and erosion the Neolithic of intensification Middle an when the Romanization in occurred mainly mouths river the of and valleys the of silting parts indented the The sands(Dias, filledwith were while line. eroded coast were the protuberances of straightening progressive the allowing sediments coarse of quantities great coast the to exported rivers Era our of beginning the before Just century” last the of reforestation of period the until vegetation, the of evolution regressive Fig. 4 – Evolution ofthePeniche Isthmusandsilting of “The first signs of intense Holocene erosionHolocene intense of signs first “The Building ofthePenicheIsthmus Atouguia Baleia da Port (Dias,2004) with a growing erosion reflecting erosion growing a with ury, a perfect peninsula was peninsula perfect a ury, 2004). A huge infilling andAhuge 2004). infilling vertical oscillations of sea of oscillations vertical sea level about 5000 years 5000 about level sea orsodd eoe the before corresponded y tog n estuaries. in strong ly date back some 6000 6000 some back date Crer, 1992). (Cordeiro, [in the [in “a occurred (Dias et al, 2000). There are also references to episodes of fires, recorded in peat, corresponding to deforestations to get agricultural areas (presence of pollens from cereals, olive trees, vineyards, and others), back in the times of Christian re-conquests, with an important erosive period preceding the fifteenth century that intensified sedimentation (Cordeiro, 1992). The navigability of the lower areas of rivers, estuaries, their bars, and the access to the ocean, became impossible, drying out and driving away from the sea’s previously navigable areas: the interior river courses and estuaries of the Northwest rivers, the mouth of the Pederneira lagoon, the Alfeizerão area, Óbidos lagoon and the mouth of the S. Domingos River (Atouguia da Baleia). There was Fig. 5 - Map of Portugal. Alvaro Secco, 1561. Detail of indeed a period in which the impacts of the Peniche coast (in Cortesão & Mota, 1987). anthropogenic activities on sediment genesis became very sensitive, especially in estuarine bodies: “the last great constructive period of the Portuguese coast seems to have taken place between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries”. The entrance of river bars was also damaged due to shedding of vessels that arrived to ship goods and unloaded the stone ballasts they brought. A severally ban punished it in 1775 (Dias et al., 2000). The influences of Neotectonics at the time are irrelevant: “In the Portuguese coastline (...) inferred average speeds of uplifting in the Upper Pliocene and Quaternary that reached maximum values between about 0.1 and 0.2 mm/year, corresponding to usually high rates of uplift compared with those commonly observed in passive continental margins Fig. 6 - Representation of the Peniche Peninsula in the (...)” (Cabral, 1993). XVII century. Fourth map of the J. Teixeira Atlas (1630), Congress Library, Washington (detail). (Cortesão & III.3. Cartography of the Peniche Mota, 1987; adapt. from Blot, 2003). Island/Peninsula

Details of the Peniche coast can be seen in several Maps of the Portuguese coast such as the map of Alvaro Secco (1561; Fig. 5). In the seventeenth century, a map in the Atlas of João Teixeira (1630) shows a detail of a creek, a reminiscent of the sea arm that isolated Peniche in the past, as well as, two clusters of population corresponding to the present urban areas: (Fig. 6; Blot, 2003). The 1634 map (Fig. 7), in the El Atlas Del Rey Planeta (Teixeira, 1634), deserves special attention as it shows the first buildings in the ancient island, a still large creek and, the Atouguia lagoon already far away from the coast.

Fig. 7 – The 1634 map of Peniche represented in the El Atlas Del Rey Planeta (Teixeira, 1634)

Volume2 Number 1, October 2010 Special Issue: 2nd Symposium on Living with Landscapes 15 16 The Egyptian Journal Of Environmental Change Special Issue:2 V olume2 Number1 Domingos and Ferrel rivers and exploited exploited S. and people the rivers of Ferrel occupation, alluviums and fertile Domingos Roman the cultivated the During “suspension as cups”. known ceramics (bifaces, Neolithic of fragments several and artefacts lithic st polished 2008), and arrowheads al, et (Pimenta, the of remnants bone enriched the mammals) with and (fish fauna spoil: quaternary of archaeological remains Sapiens; extensive Homo of an remnants bone hominid of site the is the from It Calcolithic. extends the of end the until Paleolithic Middle that region a occupying sea by located the are and Cave, Furninha the is are which of region important most Peniche the caves, in been the have to recorded of occupations first The Peninsula III.4. Human occupationofthePeniche and servedas a thewith port, bay anchorage.as creek, the of area navigable was the that through nucleus made urban main the to navigation by south the to access the as well as creek broad the of shape the shows 8) (Fig. Peniche of map 1786 The main the and 1786 urban nucleus. in Peniche of creek broad the of shape The (b) 2003); (Blot, 1992 a Blot, from and y Blot Reproduced with Puerto Madrid). map Naval, del (Museo manuscript “Plano legend the Peniche”, of de Detail Península (a) – 8 Fig. n d Sym

, Oct posium onLiving withLandscapes ober 2010 n ae) bn utensils bone axes), one igiu impennis Pinguinus

Archipelago IV.1. Geographicframework oftheBerlengas IV.TheBERLENGAS ARCHIPELAGO Portuguese main amajor to boost thelocal economy through tourism. the of one found Peniche of population the Presently ports. is fishing Peniche of port The amongst factories, shipbuilding to others, develop. and canning as such industry fishing-related varied a allowing fishing seine production fish century the technique, new a introductionof the to due increases twentieth twentieth the In and agriculture. nineteenth w growing a to the due centuries during consolidated pirate econ population’s fromThe attacks. population the protecting system defence important an of centuries building the seventeenth with continued and prosperity sixteenth the During way. important an in grow to began population the isthmus, the of settling the with on, century sixteenth the From Baleia. da Atouguia island of village the an became later estate which to important an refer of administration documents the to belonging Ages, Middle the In Romanamphorae. several and stocks anchor lead twenty about of recovery datedfrom thefirst identificationcenturythe andby and complex pottery a of founding the by attested is activity this of importance The resources. marine and estuarine h Pruus Trioil e, er n important an near Sea, Territorial Portuguese the to close depths great reaching they coast, Europe, in common not continental characteristics oceanic the has shelf Portuguese the from as miles 2000m, quickly 15 surpass just But Farilhões, Berlenga. of of case the North is 40m as 70m, under to up bottoms deep Portuguese on the platform, continental on coast’s rests Archipelago Berlengas The highest the point occurs – 94m (Forcadas). most the Grande, where Farilhões and rocks) small Berlenga (18 Estelas important, islets: the and is islands small Peninsula Peniche three of group a 9), and the 1 (Figs. Archipelago Berlengas off Northwest 16km Peninsula (IGC, 1968). Peniche the of NW Archipelago Berlengas The – 9 Fig. ealth that originated from originated that ealth the coastline. It is inset in inset is It coastline. the omic and social structure social and omic THE EVOLUTION OF THE COASTLINE AT them, there is no one that points out their differences although they are only 16km away from each other. PENICHE AND THE BERLENGAS ISLANDS This paper aims to contribute to our understanding of (PORTUGAL) - STATE OF THE ART the reasons behind their particularly different histories and evolutions. TERESA AZEVÊDO, ELISABETE NUNES Centro de Geologia, Faculdade de Ciências de Lisboa, Ed. C6, 4º Piso. Campo Grande, 1749-016 Lisboa, Portugal. e-mails: [email protected], [email protected]

geomorphological accident: the Nazaré Canyon one them (França et al., 1960). of the deepest canyons of the “Gouf” type - 227 km The Berlengas Archipelago’s relief is quite abrupt and long, starting at 50m deep, 300km from the shore jagged, with a relatively flattened central zone. This and going up to5000m, in the Iberian abyssal plain. plateau, at an elevation of 90m, formed more recently, It is one of Europe’s most dramatic underwater during the last Ice Age, due to the global variations of landscape features and plays a very relevant role in the sea level. In the biggest islands (Berlenga and the physical environment and in the ecological Farilhões) this relatively flat central zone is limited by characteristics of the region, as it interacts with the scarped cliffs that go into the sea, and, in some cases, circulation associated with the coastal upwelling, are practically vertical (Fig. 10, 11 and 12). thus enriching the surface waters in nutrients and The shaping of the cliff and the particular form of the intensifying the primary production phenomena of present islands with caves of different sizes, tunnels and the ecosystem. It presents mountainous topography, small bays is strongly conditioned by the intense high sediment loads and episodic down-canyon fracturing and the intensified chemical alteration of the flows (Vanney & Mougenot, 1981; Amaro et al., granites along the old faults, allowing the accumulation 2006). of sands that form small entrenched beaches. The main island and the only one inhabited – The several islets and skerries which surround the Berlenga Grande – corresponds to a gigantic granitic archipelago show heights varying between 6.4m and rock, 94m high, with a flat surface, around which are 50m. The main islets, Estela Grande (between 40 and 45 numerous caves and some small islets. It has a m high) with very abrupt cliffs and a tunnel that crosses perimeter of about 4000m, being 800m wide by it in the E-W direction and Estelão, are about 80 m 1500m long. distant from each other and form the central nucleus. The Berlengas Archipelago has a marine west coast Farilhões (6 main islets) and Forcadas (2 islets), with climate. Summers are fresh with frequent mists and steep cliffs, are two small groups of islets close to one daily maximum temperatures hardly ever going another, situated about 10.9km (6.8 miles) NE of beyond 32 ºC; while Winters are warm with average Berlenga. monthly temperatures superior to 10 ºC and daily minimums over 0 ºC. (PO-RNB, 2007; Daveau et al., 1985).

IV.2. Geology and Geomorphology The Berlengas Archipelago is a fragment of the “Iberian Massif (highly deformed and metamorphosed rocks of Precambrian and Palaeozoic age that intruded by granitic batholiths), part of the Variscan Fold Belt formed during the Devonian and Carboniferous, resulting from the collision of the two, then existing, great continents - Gondwana and Laurasia. Therefore, the Berlengas islands are pieces of the ancient super continent Pangea left behind the Americas with the opening of the Atlantic Ocean (220 and 140 Ma ago; Fig. 2). They represent the Fig. 10 - Map of Berlenga Island and Estelas Islands emerged witness of the ancient bounding of the (Sémhur, 2007) Gondwana continent before the separation between Europe and America, limiting the big tectonic trough (Lusitanian Basin) in the east and contributing as a sediment source in the Upper Jurassic (Bernardes et al., 1992), as well as in Cretaceous times. The lithology of the several islands is completely different from the Jurassic limestones of the continent. Some of them composed by Palaeozoic and Proterozoic rocks being the biggest system formed by special coarse granite, with pink feldspar, called the Berlengas Granite (about 280 Ma old). The islets of Farilhões and Forcados have a different constitution known as the “Farilhões migmatitic- shale Complex”. The most recent deposits, only identified on the Berlenga Island, are of Pleistocene Fig. 11 - A view of the Berlenga’s cliffs (Photo: T. age, and corresponded to two different beach levels. Azevêdo, 2008) Caves and few deposits of rounded rocks represent

Volume2 Number 1, October 2010 Special Issue: 2nd Symposium on Living with Landscapes 17 18 The Egyptian Journal Of Environmental Change Special Issue:2 V olume2 Number1 nei foa aogt h 15 botanical 135 the amongst floras endemic three of speciation the to led climate, herbs and geography al, perennial et or Gomes annual (Tauleigne by is vegetation dominated The trees. mainly olive and fig small some de virtually are islands The theby IUCN (CBRB;2008). grouper Dusky the of ( existence the regards area this in problem conservational One important. most wh of species, of abundance Raja ( conger, Conger fauna trachurus, marine scombrus the Scomber to As introBerlenga. been accidentally pcaiy ofrne ad etns ed all in held world. the over meetings presented and numerous conferences communications of speciality theme and the articles been has geology Peniche The 3). Fig. Ma; 183 (about complete most the ICS is sequence, this of record, the geological to presented (UNESCO)as areathe being theon Planet wherethe was Committee Heritage World the to inscription its for proposal the 2008, In international intervals (Venâncio best world’s time Pliensbachian-Toarcian the the the of record transition having as by community scientific considered unanimously lower the The Portugal. of in evolution Jurassic geologic Peniche of years entire million 20 than the more of story, continuous border The a tell Peninsula, that nowadays. cliffs tourists limestone of lapis, thousands as such attracting forms carved and cliffs spectacular a to refer limestones Jurassic mainly of Peniche, composition of lithology and geology The III.1. Geologyandlithology III. aiain te lc rt ( rat black the navigation, value. associated intrinsic high presents a Historically it giving which it, surrounds that out, insularity the pointed from derived characteristics particular is or berlengensis) lizard wall of (Carbonell's presence be the must fauna, clutches land reachable the Concerning 13). (fig. year the every destroyed all supporting and its plague beyond is specie this island therefore capacity, the on seagulls of si limits the the balance, Within ecological Sensus). (2009 birds 25000 Yellow- ( of gull country the legged in colony largest the and ( Storm-Petrel of Madeiran populations only the host Berlengas The forms. life different to rise giving pressures, of types other to due siblings” “continental its to differently very evolved arrived They ground. solid were valleys) submarine colonizers first wh ago, years The 15000 about Continent. the near unique present island f the the despite characteristics of flora and fauna The IV.3. onay s u t te isrtgah suy of study biostratigraphy the to ammonites(Penance al, et 2007). due this is of definition boundary The framework. stratigraphic its Trovão)Penicheand profile the (Pontado Jurassic) in ainl ouain f hg ( ( Shags Gulls of Black-backed Lesser of couples only the aristotelis ), population of ( population national Guillemot residual the Common Europe, ( continental Shearwater Cory’s Fig. Fig. 12 - 3Dmodel showingthe verticalcliffs ofthe ), considered "Endangered" considered marginatus ), Epinephelus i. - h PinbcinTaca (Lower Pliensbachian-Toarcian The - 3 Fig. The Peniche Area n Fauna andfloraspecies d au fuscus Larus Sym

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, rsne te elna Acieaos Biosphere Archipelago’s municipality Berlengas Reservenomination to theUNESCO in 2008. Peniche the The presented Directive). Community Ar Protection The (Special 2000 island. includ were the Reserve and Natural 1981 since a of as classified species are Islands Berlengas other and in flora disturbances huge the causes proliferation the mainly which seagulls species, of thousands animal protecting different the monitors monitoring and keepers the lighthouse the by inhabited only now is archipelago The accentuating origin, erosionprocess. anthropogenic of impacts allowed the fishing from main the the for away responsible are visitors and tourists to moving places, as accesses well the as and grounds, trails the using By microcephala berlengiana berlengensis Armeria anywhere exist not do they as value conservation high extremely have They present. III.2. rsnl te elna Acieao I sie f this, of spite In Archipelago. Berlengas is the that presently block granitic the to peninsula plain this coastal connecting extensive the up just located was it time ar Cave) (Furninha Furninha da Gruta the with Peninsula Peniche the in happens it as occupation its potentiate could shelters as used cavities oc the with together factors These navigation. Mesolithic the by the reached was island authors, some For visited. or occupied potentially the level and of emerged then be should part territory submarine present present major The the 1995). Tooley, above and (Jelgersma 120-130m about was level Wa and (Bell BP reached 18.000 circa be Upper could during as island foot, the by directly The Glaciation. in Würm that the by caused Regression indicates Flandrian the to due continent, Paleolithic, the from island the isolates that channel, the of bathymetry The IV.4. TheBerlengashuman occupation of grazing areas”, grazing of conquest the sought fires, through Man, when BP, years mountains] western central-north horizontal that: shown a have territory Portuguese the in years 6000 with last the over erosion soil in combined action anthropic the of role The been particular (silting), development have level the reasons, these For areas. navigable fluvial the of silting the to leading materials the constitute which soil, of extensions behind leaving mountain the slopes was destroyed action bythe man, of on cover only vegetation The movements. eustatic on depend not does continuously, changing been has which territory,coastal the of morphology However,water. the and land between frontier physical the stable made ago mean the of stabilization The andits huge developmentas a harbour (Dias,2004). isthmus. island sandythe occupationof human the to leading developed present-day the cent 16 the after built Therefore, 4) (fig. River Domingos S. the of mouth the of up silting gradual The the continent by a wide,erosive, navigable channel. from separated island, coastal a to Ages’, century twelfth Middle the during navigatorsby “Phenícies” called Peninsula, Peniche The any n h Mdl Noihc n drn the during and erosion the Neolithic of intensification Middle an when the Romanization in occurred mainly mouths river the of and valleys the of silting parts indented the The sands(Dias, filledwith were while line. eroded coast were the protuberances of straightening progressive the allowing sediments coarse of quantities great coast the to exported rivers Era our of beginning the before Just century” last the of reforestation of period the until vegetation, the of evolution regressive Fig. 4 – Evolution ofthePeniche Isthmusandsilting of Fig. 13 – Gullsprotecting their eggs until they hatch “The first signs of intense Holocene erosionHolocene intense of signs first “The Building ofthePenicheIsthmus Atouguia Baleia da Port (Dias,2004) (rupturewort) and the the and (rupturewort) (fleabane or horseweed). (Photo:T. Azevêdo,2008) with a growing erosion reflecting erosion growing a with (thrift or sea pinks), the pinks), sea or (thrift the Last Maximum Glacier, Glacier, Maximum Last the ury, a perfect peninsula was peninsula perfect a ury, 2004). A huge infilling andAhuge 2004). infilling urne f eea natural several of currence d n h Ntr Network Natura the in ed vertical oscillations of sea of oscillations vertical sea level about 5000 years 5000 about level sea orsodd eoe the before corresponded a (Ps o European of (SPAs) eas helgcl ie A the At site. chaeological kr 19) te eustatic the 1992), lker, le n h wrd the world: the in else y tog n estuaries. in strong ly date back some 6000 6000 some back date Crer, 1992). (Cordeiro, Herniaria Pulicaria [in the [in “a occurred (Dias et al, 2000). There are also references to episodes of fires, recorded in peat, corresponding to deforestations to get agricultural areas (presence of pollens from cereals, olive trees, vineyards, and others), back in the times of Christian re-conquests, with an important erosive period preceding the fifteenth century that intensified sedimentation (Cordeiro, 1992). The navigability of the lower areas of rivers, estuaries, their bars, and the access to the ocean, became impossible, drying out and driving away from the sea’s previously navigable areas: the interior river courses and estuaries of the Northwest rivers, the mouth of the Pederneira lagoon, the Alfeizerão area, Óbidos lagoon and the mouth of the S. Domingos River (Atouguia da Baleia). There was Fig. 5 - Map of Portugal. Alvaro Secco, 1561. Detail of indeed a period in which the impacts of the Peniche coast (in Cortesão & Mota, 1987). anthropogenic activities on sediment genesis became very sensitive, especially in estuarine bodies: “the last great constructive period of the Portuguese coast seems to have taken place between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries”. The entrance of river bars was also damaged due to shedding of vessels that arrived to ship goods and unloaded the stone ballasts they brought. A severally ban punished it in 1775 (Dias et al., 2000). The influences of Neotectonics at the time are irrelevant: “In the Portuguese coastline (...) inferred average speeds of uplifting in the Upper Pliocene and Quaternary that reached maximum values between about 0.1 and 0.2 mm/year, corresponding to usually high rates of uplift compared with those commonly observed in passive continental margins Fig. 6 - Representation of the Peniche Peninsula in the (...)” (Cabral, 1993). XVII century. Fourth map of the J. Teixeira Atlas (1630), Congress Library, Washington (detail). (Cortesão & III.3. Cartography of the Peniche Mota, 1987; adapt. from Blot, 2003). Island/Peninsula

Fig. 7 – The 1634 map of Peniche represented in the El Atlas Del Rey Planeta (Teixeira, 1634)

several excavations have not yet shown evidence of give them the sacraments, but to allow them to listen to a prehistoric occupation. the divine offices as well. But they lived there for a Through classic literature, Berlenga Grande was short time due to lack of food. The island didn't occupied since Antiquity, being then called produce, and the sea was too wild to be depended upon, Londobris, a toponym of Celtic origin, which to add to the fact that the island was often also invaded indicates a pre-Roman occupation. This was by pirates. Besides that, the monks often died “with confirmed by the poem of Rúfio Festo Avieno in the illnesses as they had nobody to treat them and often fell fourth century AC., which mentioned an island, from the cliffs”, which was confirmed by found remains located on the West Iberian coast, where the of human bones (Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; Santos, navigation was quite dangerous and consecrated to 1994). The Monastery seems to have been abandoned in Saturn. It has been mentioned as lying in the 1545, when the 12 surviving monks moved to Vale legendary route of the Cassiterides; a tradition that Benfeito, in the continent. It fell into ruins, and its comes from the Bronze Age. Some centuries later, stones were later used to build the S. João Baptista the island was occupied by Phoenicians, Punic and fortress (Fig. 14; Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; Santos, later by Romans, Vikings, Muslims, also French and 1994). English pirates. Some historians think that a Pirates and corsairs navigated these waters since, at Phoenician sanctuary, dedicated to a Baal-Melkart, least, the beginning of the Middle Ages, from reports of (a rain and fertility God of the northern Semites), attacks against fishing villages of the region by pirates was built on the island. from England, France, Holland, Morocco and Algiers, Due to its strategic location, recent excavations until the middle of the seventeenth century, when the showed marks of occupation starting from the first Fortress of S. João Baptista was built. The fortress was century, to the beginning of the Atlantic navigation later used as deportation ground and also as a secret era. The island seems to have acted as a mandatory hiding-place for the English saboteurs during the stopping point for Roman merchant ships crossing Napoleonic invasions. The French army found them and the existing Portuguese coast that commercially finally destroyed it (Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; linked the Mediterranean and Northern Europe Santos, 1994). (Blot, 2002). This long distance trading network is suggested by the earliest records known to Western Europe which point to the presence of Rattus rattus from Asia, in the Mediterranean at the beginning of the first millennium A.C. The Berlenga Island, situated along this route, received these species, in particular, from the end of the first century B.C., the period for which the archaeological remains of Roman navigation are more evident. The occupation during this period stands out with particular relevance (CBRB, 2008). Abundant diversified archaeological materials suggest a continuous, or very frequent, occupation of the island since those times. In the Fishermen Quarters, built in 1941 (CBRB, 2008) to lodge local fishermen, an establishment of a seasonal nature was found, with the presence of a small industrial unit linked to fish Fig. 14 – S. João Baptista fortress (Photo by T. production and preparations (preserves, sauces) Azevêdo, 2009) similar to that of the island of Peniche at that time. Human occupation continued since the medieval period as seems to be attested by the identification of archaeological materials of an Islamic horizon. The Arabic presence is testified by the English crusade Ranulfo de Granville in 1147, which in a letter to the clergyman Osberto of Baldreseia, when he passed in front of the Peniche Island wrote: “[…] Near it there are two other islands that I think they call Berlengas, corruption of Baleares and in one of them a splendid architectural palace exists, with many rooms and lodgings... of a certain king […]”. In 1513, the monks of the St. Jeronimus Order built on the island, on the present Fishing Quarter, the Berlengas Monastery, to aid the numerous sailors that often landed on the island. This was not only to

Volume2 Number 1, October 2010 Special Issue: 2nd Symposium on Living with Landscapes 19 20 The Egyptian Journal Of Environmental Change Special Issue:2 V olume2 Number1 ets n nvgbe agr o te waters the of dangers navigable relative and the islands, depths these around the of bottoms conditions sandy conservational good the the to to Due linked industry local dismantlingof shipsdeveloped. the disasters, of Because these 2003). (Blot, busy zone very sheltered a stop-over today, before been having Berlengas the to point to seems 17), and 16 (Figs. on Age Iron registered of number The 2002). Anaya, Vivar & Blot 1994; (Blot, deposit the funerary and place sinking the both study to out carried were campaigns archaeological Eight crew. Spanish of treasure huge and Peruvian complex a with sunk It silver. and gold a with loaded excessively Lima from returning was it as waters, Peniche the in 1786, in ship, war Spanish a 15) (Fig. the Alcântara de Pedro of shipwreck the is case famous A 2007). 1930), whose memory in the community is still still is community 2002, Santos, and the (Reiner strong in memory whose 1930), and 1885) – Grande steamers British the include mi and century nineteenth the of quarter last the between there sank that ships steam-erarangebroadmemoryof a the people,of on Of impact time. and monumentality their in the by out lost stand these, is of memory whose rocks casualties and shipwrecks treacherous numerous of scene the the were Berlengas and waters The ships, bottoms. of sandy its in lying ages, dozens modern of ones big namely shipwrecks, and numerous dangerous quite caused amphorae navigation the an made bottom and ir The complex. anchorages production deposits, burial as, structures port such shipwrecks, waters, Peniche the in identified are sites geological valuable one. historical and a heritage, natural invaluable its that, to addition in presents, Island Berlenga The Domingos and Ferrel rivers and exploited exploited S. and people the rivers of Ferrel occupation, alluviums and fertile Domingos Roman the cultivated the During “suspension as cups”. known ceramics (bifaces, Neolithic of fragments several and artefacts lithic st polished 2008), and arrowheads al, et (Pimenta, the of remnants bone enriched the mammals) with and (fish fauna spoil: quaternary of archaeological remains Sapiens; extensive Homo of an remnants bone hominid of site the is the from It Calcolithic. extends the of end the until Paleolithic Middle that region a occupying sea by located the are and Cave, Furninha the is are which of region important most Peniche the caves, in been the have to recorded of occupations first The Peninsula III.4. Human occupationofthePeniche and servedas a thewith port, bay anchorage.as creek, the of area navigable was the that through nucleus made urban main the to navigation by south the to access the as well as creek broad the of shape the shows 8) (Fig. Peniche of map 1786 The main the and 1786 urban nucleus. in Peniche of creek broad the of shape The (b) 2003); (Blot, 1992 a Blot, from and y Blot Reproduced with Puerto Madrid). map Naval, del (Museo manuscript “Plano legend the Peniche”, of de Detail Península (a) – 8 Fig. IV.5. SinkingsandunderwaterArchaeology Fig. Fig. 15 Shipwreck - of the n warship in 1786,in the Peniche waters. d Sym

, Oct posium onLiving withLandscapes ober 2010 Several subaquatic archaeologicalSeveralsubaquatic ihad Hope Highland d twentieth century. These century. twentieth d shipwrecks, from the 2nd the from shipwrecks, sl mrhs nurseries, marshes, salt , SãoPedro de Alcântara n ae) bn utensils bone axes), one euaiy f h ocean the of regularity l Dorado El igiu impennis Pinguinus in Venâncio Frlõs - (Farilhões (Farilhão et al et São

, &Vivar Anaya, 2002). the after generalized already as considered fact in are they Presently, epoch. Roman the to attributed and located were stumpsamphorae lead 20 about findings, these coastal Complementing Portugueseenvironment. the from amphorae of assemblage largest the today presents Sea Berlengas The locations. archaeol vast, incalculable, the almost in believe archaeologists them, surrounding natural conditions create perfect waves for such sports, such for waves perfect create conditions natural ueos nentoa eet rltn t tee sports an and these of to relating scene events the international is numerous pipeline”) (“Europe “Supertubos” or surfing, Th diving. as or boarding such body exceptional sports-lovers its for by suitable conditions internationally known elements, is Peniche of variety Earth’s past history. 2004) huge (Gray, - Geodiversity formation geological the of landscape processes and environments spectacular from The emerges beautiful. aesthetically Archipelago IV.1. Geographicframework oftheBerlengas IV.TheBERLENGAS ARCHIPELAGO Portuguese main amajor to boost thelocal economy through tourism. the of one found Peniche of population the Presently ports. is fishing Peniche of port The amongst factories, shipbuilding to others, develop. and canning as such industry fishing-related varied a allowing fishing seine production fish century the technique, new a introductionof the to due increases twentieth twentieth the In and agriculture. nineteenth w growing a to the due centuries during consolidated pirate econ population’s fromThe attacks. population the protecting system defence important an of centuries building the seventeenth with continued and prosperity sixteenth the During way. important an in grow to began population the isthmus, the of settling the with on, century sixteenth the From Baleia. da Atouguia island of village the an became later estate which to important an refer of administration documents the to belonging Ages, Middle the In Romanamphorae. several and stocks anchor lead twenty about of recovery datedfrom thefirst identificationcenturythe andby and complex pottery a of founding the by attested is activity this of importance The resources. marine and estuarine h Pruus Trioil e, er n important an near Sea, Territorial Portuguese the to close depths great reaching they coast, Europe, in common not continental characteristics oceanic the has shelf Portuguese the from as miles 2000m, quickly 15 surpass just But Farilhões, Berlenga. of of case the North is 40m as 70m, under to up bottoms deep Portuguese on the platform, continental on coast’s rests Archipelago Berlengas The highest the point occurs – 94m (Forcadas). most the Grande, where Farilhões and rocks) small Berlenga (18 Estelas important, islets: the and is islands small Peninsula Peniche three of group a 9), and the 1 (Figs. Archipelago Berlengas off Northwest 16km Peninsula (IGC, 1968). Peniche the of NW Archipelago Berlengas The – 9 Fig. This coastal scenery, is scenery, coastal This area V. Geotourism in the Berlengas and Peniche accidents andaccidents incidents were observed(PO-RNB, 2007). Fig. 17 - that Accidents occurredthein Territorial sea andtheContinent EEZ between and2002. 1971 1700 Fig. 16 Shipwrecks- in the Berlengassea thesince ex-libris Second Iron Second Age (B o sres rm rud h wrd Its world. the around from surfers for monumental (Romão, 2008) (Romão, monumental ta ae vdne f the of evidence are that - e beach of Médão Grande Médão of beach e ealth that originated from originated that ealth fourth century B.C. (Blot (Blot B.C. century fourth the coastline. It is inset in inset is It coastline. the gcl oeta o their of potential ogical lot et al,lot 2005). omic and social structure social and omic and geomorphological accident: the Nazaré Canyon one them (França et al., 1960). of the deepest canyons of the “Gouf” type - 227 km The Berlengas Archipelago’s relief is quite abrupt and long, starting at 50m deep, 300km from the shore jagged, with a relatively flattened central zone. This and going up to5000m, in the Iberian abyssal plain. plateau, at an elevation of 90m, formed more recently, It is one of Europe’s most dramatic underwater during the last Ice Age, due to the global variations of landscape features and plays a very relevant role in the sea level. In the biggest islands (Berlenga and the physical environment and in the ecological Farilhões) this relatively flat central zone is limited by characteristics of the region, as it interacts with the scarped cliffs that go into the sea, and, in some cases, circulation associated with the coastal upwelling, are practically vertical (Fig. 10, 11 and 12). thus enriching the surface waters in nutrients and The shaping of the cliff and the particular form of the intensifying the primary production phenomena of present islands with caves of different sizes, tunnels and the ecosystem. It presents mountainous topography, small bays is strongly conditioned by the intense high sediment loads and episodic down-canyon fracturing and the intensified chemical alteration of the flows (Vanney & Mougenot, 1981; Amaro et al., granites along the old faults, allowing the accumulation 2006). of sands that form small entrenched beaches. The main island and the only one inhabited – The several islets and skerries which surround the Berlenga Grande – corresponds to a gigantic granitic archipelago show heights varying between 6.4m and rock, 94m high, with a flat surface, around which are 50m. The main islets, Estela Grande (between 40 and 45 numerous caves and some small islets. It has a m high) with very abrupt cliffs and a tunnel that crosses perimeter of about 4000m, being 800m wide by it in the E-W direction and Estelão, are about 80 m 1500m long. distant from each other and form the central nucleus. The Berlengas Archipelago has a marine west coast Farilhões (6 main islets) and Forcadas (2 islets), with climate. Summers are fresh with frequent mists and steep cliffs, are two small groups of islets close to one daily maximum temperatures hardly ever going another, situated about 10.9km (6.8 miles) NE of beyond 32 ºC; while Winters are warm with average Berlenga. monthly temperatures superior to 10 ºC and daily minimums over 0 ºC. (PO-RNB, 2007; Daveau et al., 1985).

irrespective of the direction of waves and strength of Their geological evolution is connected with the winds. Other beaches in the municipality are also opening of the Atlantic Ocean. Their history comes excellent for lovers of these radical sports. from the most ancient of times, and their geological and Along the Peniche coastline there are sites with high archaeological sites have been studied by numerous scientific, educational, cultural, scenic and geo national and international authors. touristic values, as objects and geological structures Although they are only 16km apart and facing each favoured by its location, content, quirkiness, or even other they have evolved differently as the Berlengas is a rarity (ICN-RNB, 2000-2006). These important non- block of the Iberian Massif and the ancient Peniche renewable geo resources, outcrops or landscapes, are Island was a fragment of Jurassic limestones resulting known as Sites of Geological Interest (Duke et al., from the erosion of the coastal cliffs. While Berlengas, 1983; Elíz aga, 1988). When they present a high due to the granite hardness, kept its morphology over degree of particularity, didactic interest or natural time and has never been permanently occupied by man, monumentality, they are considered Geo monuments the formation of an isthmus by progressive silting (Galopim de Carvalho, 1998; Romão, 2008). transformed the island of Peniche into a Peninsula Examples of Geo monuments, are: the Berlengas leading to its growing importance as a fishing and Horst; the Berlengas pink granite highland and touristic spot. Farilhões metamorphic peaks (Romão & Félix, 2005); the Ponta do Trovão Sedimentary Register, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 183Ma old (Duarte, 2003); the Papoa’s Volcanic We would like to thank our colleagues Silvério Eruption; the Baleal Monocline, Baleal Tombolo Figueiredo, Lurdes Morais and Margarida Salvador for and the Furninha Cave. They potentiate great the careful revision of this paper. economic development to the region, mainly the Geo tourism, one of the newest touristy attractions. BIBLIOGRAPHY The Berlenga Island is now a touristic site, visited Amaro, T.; Billett, D.S.M; Gooday, A.J.; Pattenden, A.; by thousands of tourists. Canoeing and nautical Stigter, H. de & Weaver, P.P.E. (2006) - Deep-sea sports are also areas of tourist development. Peniche canyon fauna on the Portuguese margin. Geophysical is nowadays, nationally as well as internationally, a Research Abstracts, Vol. 8, 10953, SRef-ID: 1607- place of excellence for divers. People want, more 7962/gra/EGU06-A-10953 and more, to enjoy the global subaquatic landscape: Bell, M. & Walker, M. (1992) - Late Quaternary fauna, flora, geological formations and shipwreck Environmental Change: Physical & Human remains. Perspectives. 1st Ed., Longman Scientific & There are four significant values regarding the Technical, England 376p. [ISBN: 978-0-13-033344- historio-cultural and scientific Heritage of the 5] Peniche region which, for their relevance and singularity, assume a national and international Bernardes, C.A.; Corrochano, A. and Reis, R.P. (1992) - dimension (Venâncio et al, 2007): (1) Geological Evolução do sistema de deltas entraçados do Heritage; (2) Constructed Historical Heritage; (3) Jurássico superior de S. Martinho do Porto, Bacia Archaeological Subaquatic Heritage and; (4) A new Lusitânica. Arquitectura sequencial e controlos strategy of development based on Geo-tourism. sedimentares. Comun. Serv. Geol. Port. 77 (1992), Another important aspect of scientific tourism is the pp. 77–88 impact of “Jurassic of Peniche” offered for academic Blot, J.-Y (2002) - O potencial arqueológico da ilha activities. Hundreds of field trips, teacher trainings Berlenga. Memorando para a Reserva Natural da and activities on various under – and post graduation Berlenga. CNANS, 8p levels are annually carried out, in addition to Blot, J.-Y. (2002) - Elementos para a tonelagem dos national and international conferences, workshops, navios na costa ibero-atlântica na Antiguidade: o public scientific lectures and the “Geology in testemunho dos vestígios de âncoras (cepos em Summer” programme. chumbo). In Terrenos da Arqueologia da Península The Gastronomic Tourism calls also thousands of Ibérica, sessão 35, Actas do III Congresso da tourists. The Peniche region is a territory where Arqueologia Peninsular. Vila Real: Universidade de “people hug the sea and the sea hugs them back”. Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, 8, p. 571-594. The municipality has a rich and extensive Blot, M.L. (2003) - Os portos na origem dos centros gastronomy, mainly fish dishes, namely the urbanos. Contributo para a arqueologia das cidades caldeirada) (fish stew, with origin in the food marítimas e fluvio-marítimas em Portugal. Instituto confection on board fishing boats. Salting and Português de Arqueologia, Trabalhos de drying of fish were traditional processes of fish Arqueologia, 28: Lisboa, 338p. http://www.ipa.min- preservation (Venâncio et al, 2007). cultura.pt/pubs/TA/folder/28 [ISBN: 972-8662-11-4] Blot, M.L.P. & Vivar Anaya, J. (2002) –“ Arqueologia VI. Conclusions funerária de um naufrágio. Presenças humanas sul- The Peniche Peninsula and the Berlengas Island are americanas num depósitode náufragos da costa two uncommon features in the Portuguese coast. portuguesa (San Pedro de Alcântara, Peniche,

Volume2 Number 1, October 2010 Special Issue: 2nd Symposium on Living with Landscapes 21 22 The Egyptian Journal Of Environmental Change Special Issue:2 V olume2 Number1 Blot, M.L.P. (1993) - - (1993) M.L.P. Blot, Duarte, L.V. (2003) - O Jurássico do cabo Mondego: cabo do Jurássico O - (2003) L.V. Duarte, Magalhães, & A. Rodrigues, T., Boski J.M.A.; Dias, litoral do evolução da história A – (2004) J.M. Dias, uaho J & orno S (01 - (2001) S. Lourenço, & J. Bugalhão, O - (2005) F Alves, R.;. Henriques, M.L.P; Blot, The - (1994) M.L.P. Blot, Daveau Cortesão, A. E. & Mota, A. T. (1987) - - (1987) T. A. Mota, & E. A. Cortesão, Berlenga no meio o da e Homem O - (1992) A.M.R. Cordeiro, Ilha - (2008) CM-Peniche Reserva a Berlengas das Candidatura - (2008) CBRB - (1993) L. M. J. Cabral, nei foa aogt h 15 botanical 135 the amongst floras endemic three of speciation the to led climate, herbs and geography al, perennial et or Gomes annual (Tauleigne by is vegetation dominated The trees. mainly olive and fig small some de virtually are islands The theby IUCN (CBRB;2008). grouper Dusky the of ( existence the regards area this in problem conservational One important. most wh of species, of abundance Raja ( conger, Conger fauna trachurus, marine scombrus the Scomber to As introBerlenga. been accidentally aiain te lc rt ( rat black the navigation, value. associated intrinsic high presents a Historically it giving which it, surrounds that out, insularity the pointed from derived characteristics particular is or berlengensis) lizard wall of (Carbonell's presence be the must fauna, clutches land reachable the Concerning 13). (fig. year the every destroyed all supporting and its plague beyond is specie this island therefore capacity, the on seagulls of si limits the the balance, Within ecological Sensus). (2009 birds 25000 Yellow- ( of gull country the legged in colony largest the and aern tr-erl ( Storm-Petrel of Madeiran populations only the host Berlengas The forms. life different to rise giving pressures, of types other to due siblings” “continental its to differently very evolved arrived They ground. solid were valleys) submarine colonizers first wh ago, years The 15000 about Continent. the near unique present island f the the despite characteristics of flora and fauna The IV.3. ainl ouain f hg ( ( Shags Gulls of Black-backed Lesser of couples only the aristotelis ), population of ( population national Guillemot residual the Common Europe, ( continental Shearwater Cory’s Fig. Fig. 12 - 3Dmodel showingthe verticalcliffs ofthe ), considered "Endangered" considered marginatus ), Epinephelus Porto: ADECAP, pp. 549 – 570. 1999. UTAD, Real, Vila Peninsular. Arqueologia Ibérica 1786)”. ao patrimonial. valor com geológicas histórias de anos de Milhões 20 a - present until Maximum synthesis. Glacial Last the evol line Coast - (2000) F. Climatologia, pp. 157-170,Lisboa. e Arqueologia História, Geologia, Correlativos: Fenómenos e Português Litoral do Geohistórica Evolução J.L., Cardoso, & M.J.F. Tavares, A.A., Estudos nos português últimos vinte milénios.Tavares, In: de Centro Geográficos, n.º7, Lisboa; 95p Memórias Térmicos . Contrastes Nebulosidade, e Nevoeiro Portugal, Subaquático,pp. 66-85 e Náutico Arqueológico Património do Nacional 1as Inventário no Peniche (CNANS-IPA). de concelho O Peniche, de Arqueológica Região da Património e Arqueologia de Jornadas Carta – Subaquático e Náutico Arqueológico Património do Nacional Inventário no Peniche de concelho (1786). Nº Newsletter, 85,March, Detroit, U.S.A. Accident Maritime Lisboa, AcademiaMarinha. de Alcantara" de Pedro "San do náufragos MonumentaCartographica Mediterrâneo, 1, p.89-110 erosão, e Paleoambientes português. Holocénico Natureza. Convenção“Sou de Peniche” da Maravilha da Sustentabilidade Desenvolvimento, e Ambiente Campus Universitário,3810-193 Aveiro do Instituto Berlengas. das UNESCO, da Biosfera” a e Homem “O Programa Candidatura Pública Consulta para Versão (CBRB). UNESCO da Biosfera da de Universidade da Lisboa. Ciências de Faculdade da continental Lisboa: InstitutoPortuguês de Arqueologia. arqueológicos trabalhos Pe dos Bairro Berlenga, n Fauna andfloraspecies d au fuscus Larus Sym

t al et Ssã 3. ca d II oges de Congresso III do Actas 35. Sessão . BerlengaIsland (Nunes, 2009) In , Oct posium onLiving withLandscapes MarineGeology Terrenos da Arqueologia da Península Arqueologiada Terrenosda Lso: eatmno e Geologia de Departamento Lisboa: . ., (1985) – – (1985) ., au michahellis Larus ober 2010 , , hc rpoue n Portugal, in reproduce which ), cme japonicus, Scomber aoeti diomedea Calonectris ra aalge Uria caorm castro Oceanodroma ue t te sad of Island the to duced I Smnro Recursos Seminário III s fio d Mr nos Mar do efeitos Os ih h bgnig of beginnings the with etcóia e Portugal de Neotectónica ats rattus Rattus e f h pplto of population the of ze en the valleys (nowadays valleys the en n nei subspecies endemic an kltl ouain f a of Population Skeletal act that they are located are they that act void of trees, except for except trees, of void 04. hi particular Their 2004). cdrs rltro dos relatório scadores: aa Ciáio de Climáticos Mapas Rltro interno. Relatório . ,170, 177-186.pp s can be classified as a as classified be can s ution in Portugal since Portugal in ution ich the sardine is the the is sardine the ich . Lisboa: Inapa adn pilchardus Sardina oacs carbonelli Podarcis , Peniche. , wt mr than more with ) p. tee s an is there spp.) Paleopathology, , h largest the ), Phalacrocorax ms have must ) Portugaliae Trachurus (1786). la da Ilha and ) of ) taxa

II , Romão, J.C. (2008) - Património geológico no litoral de de litoral no geológico Património - (2008) J.C. Romão, – (2006) P.P. Cunha, & P. Callapez, J.L.; Dinis, J.; Rey, Rey, J. (1972) - - (1972) J. Rey, História A Berlengas: - (2002) R. Santos, and F. Reiner, Reserva da Ordenamento de Plano - (2007) PO-RNB Novo (2008)- M.M. García, S; Figueiredo, C; Pimenta, M. Tooley, S., Jelgersma, 1:400,000, Portugal, de Corográfica Carta - (1968) IGC Natureza: da Turismo - (2000-2006) ICN-RNB http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supertubos Dinis, M.V.; Henriques, conserving and valuing - Geodiversity - (2004) M. Gray, Geomonumentos - (1998) A.M. Carvalho, de Galopim rna JC; Zbyszewski, J.C.; França, Culturales, Georrecursos - (1988) E. Munoz, Elízaga Duque, L. C.; Elí C.; L. Duque, rsne te elna Acieaos Biosphere Archipelago’s municipality Berlengas Reservenomination to theUNESCO in 2008. Peniche the The presented Directive). Community Ar Protection The (Special 2000 island. includ were the Reserve and Natural 1981 since a of as classified species are Islands Berlengas other and in flora disturbances huge the causes proliferation the mainly which seagulls species, of thousands animal protecting different the monitors monitoring and keepers the lighthouse the by inhabited only now is archipelago The accentuating origin, erosionprocess. anthropogenic of impacts allowed the fishing from main the the for away responsible are visitors and tourists to moving places, as accesses well the as and grounds, trails the using By microcephala berlengiana berlengensis Armeria anywhere exist not do they as value conservation high extremely have They present. rsnl te elna Acieao I sie f this, of spite In Archipelago. Berlengas is the that presently block granitic the to peninsula plain this coastal connecting extensive the up just located was it time ar Cave) (Furninha Furninha da Gruta the with Peninsula Peniche the in happens it as occupation its potentiate could shelters as used cavities oc the with together factors These navigation. Mesolithic the by the reached was island authors, some For visited. or occupied potentially the level and of emerged then be should part territory submarine present present major The the 1995). Tooley, above and (Jelgersma 120-130m about was level Wa and (Bell BP reached 18.000 circa be Upper could during as island foot, the by directly The Glaciation. in Würm that the by caused Regression indicates Flandrian the to due continent, Paleolithic, the from island the isolates that channel, the of bathymetry The IV.4. TheBerlengashuman occupation Fig. 13 – Gullsprotecting their eggs until they hatch Congresso Internacional de Turismo de Leiria e e Leiria de Turismo de Internacional II Congresso divulgar. e valorizar a geomonumentos Peniche: p. 75 Lisboa. INETI, [ISBN 972-676-203-0] Ed. Portugal, de de Cadernos Geologia Portugal. de Cretácico do evolução e Serviços Composiçãomargemà passiva. continental rotura Da Série, de Nova Sabatier Paul Geológicos de Portugal; 21, 477p. Memórias: Université de Toulouse, Thèse d'État, Portugal. Doctorat l'Estremadura, de Inférieur e as estórias, as e pp.91-205 Peniche, Biodiversidade,CMP, 2007,253 p. Discussão da e Natureza para da Conservação da Instituto Relatório - Pública Berlengas, das Natural de Portuguesa Revista Arqueologia.volume ( númro2., 11. pp. 361–370 Portugal de Pinguim Plistocénico de registo levels and sea sedimentation, pp. 123–139. Climate, cycles: Holocene 7, issue Special Research, Coastal of Journal past. geological recent the during InstitutoGeográfico eCadastral, LIsboa. da Conservação da Instituto Natureza, 7p. – ICN Berlengas. das Natural Reserva da Estratégico Enquadramento –X portuguesa) Planície (Estremadura ColóquioIbérico de Geografia na Nazaré da Holcénico Aluvial Sedimentar Enchimento nature. abiotic Chichester. Wiley, Nacional, 2: 3-18. Biblioteca da Revista "LEITURAS-Classificação", Lisboa, Saber. do Sistematização e Conhecimento do de proposta Portugal: em Lisboa, 33p. Portugal, folha 26-C (Peniche). 26-C de folha Portugal, Geológica Carta da explicativa Notícia - (1960) Geologiaambiental, I.T.G.E. Madrid: 85-100 Galicia, en Geológico Interés ServicioPublicaciones, IGME, 103 p. de Puntos - (1983) Temapp. 263-272 VI, Version (CD Com. - VI-2.pdf) Geológicos (rupturewort) and the the and (rupturewort) (fleabane or horseweed). Abet e reaet d território, do Ordenamento e Ambiente , (Photo:T. Azevêdo,2008) Recherches géologiques sur le Crétacé le sur géologiques Recherches zaga Munoz, E. & Vidal Romaní, J. R. R. J. Romaní, Vidal & E. Munoz, zaga (thrift or sea pinks), the pinks), sea or (thrift . Miih d Almeida de Moitinho G., the Last Maximum Glacier, Glacier, Maximum Last the , 20 ) Aaiço do Avaliação )- (2005 J, 19) Salvl changes Sea-level - (1995) urne f eea natural several of currence no impennis ) Pinguinus lsiiaã Organização classificação d n h Ntr Network Natura the in ed a (Ps o European of (SPAs) eas helgcl ie A the At site. chaeological kr 19) te eustatic the 1992), lker, le n h wrd the world: the in else Serv. Geol. Portugal Geol. Serv. Herniaria Pulicaria . several excavations have not yet shown evidence of give them the sacraments, but to allow them to listen to a prehistoric occupation. the divine offices as well. But they lived there for a Through classic literature, Berlenga Grande was short time due to lack of food. The island didn't occupied since Antiquity, being then called produce, and the sea was too wild to be depended upon, Londobris, a toponym of Celtic origin, which to add to the fact that the island was often also invaded indicates a pre-Roman occupation. This was by pirates. Besides that, the monks often died “with confirmed by the poem of Rúfio Festo Avieno in the illnesses as they had nobody to treat them and often fell fourth century AC., which mentioned an island, from the cliffs”, which was confirmed by found remains located on the West Iberian coast, where the of human bones (Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; Santos, navigation was quite dangerous and consecrated to 1994). The Monastery seems to have been abandoned in Saturn. It has been mentioned as lying in the 1545, when the 12 surviving monks moved to Vale legendary route of the Cassiterides; a tradition that Benfeito, in the continent. It fell into ruins, and its comes from the Bronze Age. Some centuries later, stones were later used to build the S. João Baptista the island was occupied by Phoenicians, Punic and fortress (Fig. 14; Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; Santos, later by Romans, Vikings, Muslims, also French and 1994). English pirates. Some historians think that a Pirates and corsairs navigated these waters since, at Phoenician sanctuary, dedicated to a Baal-Melkart, least, the beginning of the Middle Ages, from reports of (a rain and fertility God of the northern Semites), attacks against fishing villages of the region by pirates was built on the island. from England, France, Holland, Morocco and Algiers, Due to its strategic location, recent excavations until the middle of the seventeenth century, when the showed marks of occupation starting from the first Fortress of S. João Baptista was built. The fortress was century, to the beginning of the Atlantic navigation later used as deportation ground and also as a secret era. The island seems to have acted as a mandatory hiding-place for the English saboteurs during the stopping point for Roman merchant ships crossing Napoleonic invasions. The French army found them and the existing Portuguese coast that commercially finally destroyed it (Bugalhão and Lourenço, 2001; linked the Mediterranean and Northern Europe Santos, 1994). (Blot, 2002). This long distance trading network is suggested by the earliest records known to Western Europe which point to the presence of Rattus rattus from Asia, in the Mediterranean at the beginning of the first millennium A.C. The Berlenga Island, situated along this route, received these species, in particular, from the end of the first century B.C., the period for which the archaeological remains of Roman navigation are more evident. The occupation during this period stands out with particular relevance (CBRB, 2008). Abundant diversified archaeological materials suggest a continuous, or very frequent, occupation of the island since those times. In the Fishermen Quarters, built in 1941 (CBRB, 2008) to lodge local fishermen, an establishment of a seasonal nature was found, with the presence of a small industrial unit linked to fish Fig. 14 – S. João Baptista fortress (Photo by T. production and preparations (preserves, sauces) Azevêdo, 2009) similar to that of the island of Peniche at that time. Human occupation continued since the medieval period as seems to be attested by the identification of archaeological materials of an Islamic horizon. The Arabic presence is testified by the English crusade Ranulfo de Granville in 1147, which in a letter to the clergyman Osberto of Baldreseia, when he passed in front of the Peniche Island wrote: “[…] Near it there are two other islands that I think they call Berlengas, corruption of Baleares and in one of them a splendid architectural palace exists, with many rooms and lodgings... of a certain king […]”. In 1513, the monks of the St. Jeronimus Order built on the island, on the present Fishing Quarter, the Berlengas Monastery, to aid the numerous sailors that often landed on the island. This was not only to

Oeste, Instituto Politécnico de Leiria, Leiria Romão, J.C. and Félix, F. (2005) - Potencialidades de valorização do património natural da Região Oeste: geomonumentos em Peniche. In: Portugal Cultura Oceânica, Torres Vedras Santos, J. (1994) - As Berlengas e os Piratas. Lisboa, Academia de Marinha. Sémhur (2007) - English map of Berlenga Island and Estelas Islands. In: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Berleng as-en.svg Tauleigne, G.C.; Draper, D.; Marques, I. and Rosselló-Graell, A. (2004) - Flora e Vegetação do Arquipélago das Berlengas. Componente Vegetal do Plano de Ordenamento da Reserva Natural das Berlengas. ICN - Ministério do Ambiente, do Ordenamento do Território e do Desenvolvimento Regional Teixeira, J. (1630) - Atlas de João Teixeira (1630). Biblioteca do Congresso. Washington. Reproduzido de Cortesão e Mota, (1987, est. 471 B) Teixeira, P. (1634) - El Atlas del Rey Planeta. «La descripción de España y de las costas y puertos de sus reinos», Editorial Nerea, Felipe Pereda y Fernando Marías editores, 2002, 398 páginas. [ISBN: 84-89569-86-x] Vanney, J-R. & Mougenot, D. (1981) - La Plate- forme continentale du Portugal et les Provinces adjacentes: analyse géomorphologique. Memórias dos Serviços Geológicos de Portugal, Lisboa, 28: 86 p (+ 41 fig.). Venâncio, R.; Ramos, D.; Veríssimo, R. & Silva, A.E (2007) - Património Cultural de Peniche – um elemento diferenciador. Congresso Internacional de Turismo em Peniche – Leiria e Oeste, Leiria, 20p.

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