Chapter 9 What You Need to Know About Pesticides

A publication of the Louisville Water Company Wellhead Protection Plan, Phase III Source Reduction Grant # X9-96479407-0

Chapter 9 What You Need to Know About Pesticides

Are you interested in pest management in your home or garden? Do you know people who need help or advice on managing or preventing pest problems? Sooner or later, we’re all pestered by pests. Whether it is mice in the garage or weeds in the garden, pests can be annoying and bothersome. At the same time, many of us are concerned that the pesticides we use to control pests can be a problem, too. How can pests be controlled safely? When and how should pesticides be used? This guide is designed to help you to answer some of these questions. The questions have no single right answer, but you should be able to make a more informed decision about the use of pesticides in your home and garden. Today, you can choose from many different options as you plan your strategy for controlling pests. Sometimes a non-chemical method of control is as effective and convenient as a chemical alternative. For many pests, total elimination is almost impossible, but it is possible to control them. Knowing your options is the key to pest control. Methods available to you, the homeowner, include pest prevention, non-chemical pest controls, and chemical pesticides. The most effective strategy for controlling pests may be to combine methods in an approach known as Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), that emphasizes preventing pest damage. In IPM, information about pests and available pest control methods is used to manage pest damage by the most economical means and with the least possible hazard to people, the environment, and property. With this guide, you should be able to make informed decisions about: ♦ Different kinds of pesticides that are available for use; ♦ Steps to take to control pests in and around your home and garden; ♦ Alternatives to chemical pesticides that are available, including pest prevention and non-chemical pest controls; ♦ Indentify some common garden pests, and the methods available for their control;

♦ Use, store, and dispose of pesticides safely; ♦ Reduce your exposure when others use pesticides; Ladybugs are a natural predator ♦ Choose a pest control company; and of aphids and other insect pests. ♦ What to do if someone is poisoned by a pesticide.

Chapter 9 Page 1 What You Need to Know About Pesticides General Information What is a pesticide? A pesticide is any substance or mixture of substances used to prevent, destroy, repel, mitigate, or regulate the growth of any form of life designated as a pest. Pests can be insects, mice and other animals, weeds, fungi, or microorganisms such as bacteria and viruses. Some examples of pests are termites causing damage to homes, dandelions in the lawn, and fleas on our dogs and cats. Pesticides are also used to kill organisms that cause disease. Most pesticides contain chemicals that can be harmful to people, animals, and the environment. For this reason, the Office of Pesticide Programs of the Environmental Protection Agency, (EPA), regulates pesticides in the United States to protect public health and the environment. Here are some of the pesticide products we use in our homes: ♦ Insect sprays and baits, ♦ Mosquito sprays, ♦ Rat, mice, or ant poisons, and ♦ Flea and tick sprays, powders, and collars. Did you know that these common products are also considered to be pesticides? ♦ Cleaning products to disinfect floors, ♦ Cleaning products used to remove the mildew on bathroom tiles, ♦ Household plant sprays, ♦ Lawn and garden products to kill insects and weeds, and ♦ Some swimming pool chemicals.

What are some of the types of pesticides used in and around our homes? Pesticides are classified by the organism that it kills or controls, by the method it uses to control a pest, or by the composition of the materials used. Table 1 below describes various pesticide classifications. Use it as a Pesticide Glossary of Terms. These types of pesticides will be discussed later in the guide.

Table 1 Pesticide Types and Classifications

Type of Pesticide Purpose, Method, or Composition Algicide Controls algae in swimming pools, water tanks, decorative ponds, and other water bodies. Antibiotics Used to control bacteriological diseases in plants and animals. Anticoagulants Used to control vertebrate pests by causing them to bleed to death. Antifouling Agent Kills or repels organisms that attach to underwater surfaces, such as boat bottoms. Antimicrobial Kills microorganisms, (bacteria and viruses). Attractant Traps containing a pesticide and food to lure insects or rodents inside. However, food is not a pesticide even though it certainly attracts pests… like ants at a picnic. Bactericide In agriculture, used to protect plants from bacterial diseases. Biochemical Pesticide Naturally occurring substance that controls pests by non-toxic mechanisms. Includes insect sex pheromones that interfere with mating. Biopesticide Also known as biological pesticides. These are pesticides derived from natural materials such as animals, plants, bacteria, and certain minerals. Chapter 9 Page 2 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Table 1, (continued) Pesticide Types and Classifications Type of Pesticide Purpose, Method, or Composition Botanical Pesticide Derived from plants. Relatively short-lived in the environment, acts quickly on insects, but may be very toxic in the short-term. Broad Spectrum Kills various types of insects, plants, or animals. Used when several different kinds of pests are a problem, but m ay also kill beneficial species. Carbamate Pesticide Affects the nervous system of animals or insects, but may be reversible if ingested by accident. Chitin Synthesis Inhibitor Interferes with the development and molting of immature insects causing their death. Defoliant Causes the leaves of a plant to fall off. Desiccant Draws moisture, (liquids), from an organism, causing it to dry out and die. Device A mechanical tool used to control pests. Disinfectant and Sanitizer Kills or inactivates disease-producing microorganisms, (such as bacteria), on inanimate objects.. Eradicants Fungicide that kills the disease once it appears on the plant, and works much like an antibiotic works on a disease in humans. Fumigant Produces a gas vapor intended to destroy pests in the house or in the ground. Fungicide Kills fungi, (including blights, mildews, molds, and rusts). Growth Regulator Increases or decreases, or changes, the normal growth or reproduction of a plant, animal, or an insect. Herbicide Kills weeds or other plants, either selectively or generally. Horticulture Oils Highly refined petroleum oils that are manufactured specifically to control plant pests, or some plants. They degrade rapidly through evaporation, and have very low toxicity to humans and wildlife when used properly. Inert Dust Used as a desiccant; has a low toxicity. Insect Growth Inhibitor Interferes with normal growth hormones in insects to prevent immature insects from developing into reproducing adults. Insecticidal Soap Specially formulated soap that contains potassium or sodium salts. Very safe method of control, but soap must coat the pest. Insecticide Kills insects and other arthropods, (animals covered with a hard exoskeleton that have a segmented body, and have appendages on at least one segment). Microbial Pesticide Pesticide consists of a microorganism, (bacterium, fungus, virus, or protozoan), that is the active ingredient. Mineral Pesticide Derived from minerals, such as diatomaceous earth, copper dust, or sulfur. Minimum Risk Pesticide Any pesticide that is exempt from FIFRA, (Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act). See Appendix I for a complete listing of the active ingredients that are on this list. Miticide or Acaracide Kills spider-like animals called mites that feed on plants and animals. Microbial Pesticide Microorganisms that kill or inhibit pests, including insects or other microorganisms. Sometimes microorganisms get rid of pests simply by growing larger in numbers, using up the pests food supply, and invading the pest’s environment. Molluscicide Kills snails and slugs.

Chapter 9 Page 3 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Table 1, (continued) Pesticide Types and Classifications Type of Pesticide Purpose, Method, or Composition Narrow Spectrum Kills a select group of pests, or a single pest. Nematicide Kills nematodes, (microscopic, worm-like organisms that feed on plant roots). Non-selective Herbicide Toxic to all plants. Organochlorine Chemical type of pesticide, most of which have been removed from the Insecticide market due to their health and environmental effects, (DDT and chlordane). Organophosphate Most are insecticides that affect the nervous system. Some are very Pesticide poisonous, but are usually not persistent in the environment. Ovicide Kills eggs of insects and mites. Petroleum Oils See Horticulture Oils, above. Pheromone Biochemicals used to disrupt the mating behavior of insects. Plant-incorporated Pesticidal substances that the plant produces from genetic material that has Protectants been added to the plant. Protectant Prevents plants from getting a fungal disease, or animals from getting certain types of disease or infestations, and works much like a vaccine prevents diseases in humans. Pyrethroid Pesticide Synthetic version of naturally occurring Pyrethrum. Some are toxic to the nervous system of humans and animals. Used for insects. Pyrethrum Made from the ground flowers of a certain type of chrysanthemum, (for insects). Repellent Repels pests, including insects, (such as mosquitoes), animals, and birds. Residual Pesticide Pesticides that last for longer periods of time. Good for areas where insects are a constant problem and where the pesticide will not be an environmental or health hazard, (example: termite control in wooden structures). Restricted Use Pesticide Chemical that is harmful to humans, wildlife, or the environment that are placed on a Restricted Use List by the US EPA or the KY Dept. of Agriculture. Only Certified Applicators may purchase, store, distribute, use, or dispose of this product. Rodenticide Control mice and other rodents. Chemicals that control other mammals, birds, and fish are also grouped as Rodenticides by regulatory agencies. Rotenone Made from the ground roots of a tropical plant. This is a contact and stomach poison and is highly toxic to fish, (for insects). Ryania Extracted from a tropical shrub, it is a contact and stomach poison. May not be available in the future. Sabadilla Extract of the seeds of a plant from the lily family and is a contact and stomach poison, (for insects). Selective Herbicide Kills some plants with little or no injury to other plants. Short-term Pesticide A pesticide that lasts only a few days or hours. Very good in situations where the insects do not return or where long-term exposure could injure desirable plants, animals, and insects.

Chapter 9 Page 4 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Table 1, (continued) Pesticide Types and Classifications Type of Pesticide Purpose, Method, or Composition Synthetic Chemical Produced by humans. May be toxic to humans and wildlife. Pesticide Systemic Pesticide This type of pesticide is fed, absorbed, or injected into a plant or animal to be protected. When the insect feeds on this plant or animal, it ingests the systemic chemical and is killed. More Information about Pesticides Some of the pesticides listed in Table 1 warrant further discussion to further define or inform the homeowner about the method, composition, or type of pesticide, and are discussed below. Additional references, web pages, or other information is listed at the end of this chapter. This chapter serves as the reference listing of all the chapters in this guide that discuss pesticides or pests. Biopesticides These are pesticides derived from natural materials such as animals, plants, bacteria, and certain minerals. For example, canola oil and baking soda have pesticidal applications and are considered to be biopesticides. Biopesticides fall into three major classes: microbial pesticides, plant pesticides, and biochemical pesticides. There are several advantages to using biopesticides effectively. However, the user needs to know a great deal about managing pests. Biopesticides are usually inherently less harmful than conventional pesticides. They generally affect only the target pest and closely related organisms. Conventional pesticides are usually broad spectrum pesticides that may kill insects as well as birds or mammals. Biopesticides are usually effective in small quantities and often decompose quickly, which results in lower exposures and largely avoids the pollution problems caused by conventional pesticides. When used as a component of Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), programs, biopesticides can greatly decrease the use of conventional pesticides. Microbial Pesticides – These pesticides consist of a microorganism, (e.g. a bacterium, fungus, virus, or protozoan), as the active ingredient. Microbial pesticides can control many different kinds of pests, although each separate active ingredient is relatively specific for its target pest. For example, specific fungi can control certain weeds, other fungi kill specific insects. The most widely used microbial pesticides are subspecies and strains of Bacillus thuringiensis, (Bt). Each strain of this bacterium produces a different mix of proteins and specifically kills one or only a few A microscopic look at Bacillus thuringiensis. related species of insect larvae. Whereas Bt’s control moth larvae found on plants, other are specific for the larvae of flies and mosquitoes. The target insect species are determined by whether the particular Bt produces a protein that can bind to a larval gut receptor, thereby causing the insect larvae to starve.

Chapter 9 Page 5 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Microbial pesticides are applied as sprays, dusts, or granules just as conventional pesticides are. Microbials may kill insects a little more slowly than do conventional pesticides. Because Bt does not reproduce and persist in the environment, it must be applied at regular intervals, much like synthetic insecticides. Plant Pesticides – Plant pesticides are substances that a plant produces after it has been genetically altered. For example, scientists can take the Bt gene, and introduce it into the plant’s own genetic material. The plant then produces the same substance as the Bt bacterium. Both the protein and the genetic material are subject to regulation by the US EPA, but the plant itself is not regulated. How Bt modified corn kills the European Corn Borer. While preventing crop losses, there are environmental and human health concerns. Biochemical – The pesticides are naturally occurring substances that control pests by non-toxic mechanisms. Conventional pesticides are, in contrast, generally synthetic materials that directly kill or inactivate the pest. Biochemical pesticides include such insect sex pheromones that interfere with mating as well as various scented plant extracts that attract insect pests to traps. Biochemical products also include hormones such as growth regulators and enzymes. Insect growth regulators, (IGRs), are non- toxic. They disrupt the balance in the insect between juvenile hormones, (that regulates development), and the hormone that regulates emergence into adulthood, causing abnormal pupation or adult development. IGRs kill isolated The life cycle of the mosquito. Many biochemical populations for a period of months or even pesticides for mosquitoes attract the male mosquitoes to years, but may fail if new individuals join traps, preventing them from mating to produce offspring. the population. Botanical Pesticides – These pesticides are derived from plants; some, such as nicotine, are as toxic as many synthetic chemical pesticides or m ore so. Remember, all pesticides are poisonous to some form of life. Organic gardeners like botanicals because they are relatively short-lived and act quickly on insects. If residual action is needed, botanical pesticides do not provide adequate protection.

Chapter 9 Page 6 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Pyrethrum products are made from the ground-up flowers of a specific species of chrysanthemum. Pyrethrins are toxins extracted from the chrysanthemum flowers. They decompose rapidly when exposed to light, air and moisture. Pests may be paralyzed temporarily when hit with the spray. Other chemicals combined with pyrethrum may block the insects ability to recover, but some of these are toxic. Be sure to follow The plant Chrysanthemum instructions exactly. cineariaefolium yields pyrethrum. Ryania is extracted from a tropical shrub and is a contact and stomach poison. It does not harm beneficial mites, lacewings, lady beetles, or parasitic wasps. It is usually applied as a dust and is most effective in hot, dry weather. Rain will wash it off the plant. Sabadilla is extracted from seeds of a plant of the lily family, and is also a contact and stomach poison. It has little effect on common beneficial insects and is relatively non-toxic to humans and other mammals. Sabadilla is most effective against leafhoppers and true bugs. It breaks down rapidly in sunlight and air, lasting about only one day. Rotenone is made for the ground roots of a tropical plant. The pesticide acts as a contact or stomach poison, and is available as a dust or a spray. It is highly toxic to fish—do not use in areas where it may get into waterways, and is moderately toxic to humans and most animals. It is not toxic to honey bees, but will kill some beneficial insects. The pesticide lasts about one week, and then loses effectiveness. Broad Spectrum Pesticides – Insecticides vary in the numbers of different kids of insects that they kill. Some insecticides only kill a few kinds of insects. Many insecticides are general purpose or wide range killers. The broad spectrum pesticides are used when several different kinds of insects are a problem. Once chemical can kill them all. No broad spectrum insecticide kills all insects; each varies as to the kinds of insects it controls. Be careful when choosing a broad spectrum pesticide, because you may kill beneficial insects as well as the pests. Horticultural Oils – These are highly refined petroleum oils that are manufactured specifically to control plant pests. They degrade rapidly through evaporation, and have a very low toxicity to humans and wildlife when used properly. Horticultural oils, when applied in the summer or when plants are dormant, have gained wide acceptance in pest management programs. They are relatively safe for the plants and the environment, and they control many insect and mite pests. They are also relatively non-toxic to the applicator and leave no toxic residue. Horticultural Oils work by interfering with respiration and membrane function of the insects, causing suffocation, and also disrupt the feeding activities of certain insects and mites. Complete coverage of the infested parts of the plant is Female white peach scale insect with armor removed to essential. The oils are most effective against eggs, show body, (white arrow), and eggs, (pink arrows). immature forms, and soft-bodied adults. Horticultural Oils can safely be used to control these pests.

Chapter 9 Page 7 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Aphids, scales, mealy bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, and eggs of almost all species are readily killed. Read the label carefully to determine which types of trees and plants may be safely sprayed to avoid damaging the plant. Insect Growth Regulators – These pesticides mimic the action of an insect’s naturally occurring juvenile hormone. They prevent immature insects from completing development into normal reproductive adults of the species. The effects of IGRs on insects include abnormal molting, twisted wings, loss of mating behavior, and sometimes death to embryos or eggs. IGRs attach a growth process only found in insects, thus, there is a great margin of safety for humans and other vertebrates. IGRs act slowly, since they do not kill the insect until it molts into an adult. Also, IGRs may kill beneficial insects as well as the pest. Insect Repellents – Repellents are generally useful against mosquitoes, flies, fleas, and ticks, but should be used with care. When needed, apply to pants, cuffs, socks, shirtsleeves, or hat brims, but avoid direct contact with skin. More information is available about safe pesticide use is included within this chapter. Insecticidal Soaps – These are specially formulated soaps that contain potassium or sodium salts or certain fatty acids. They have become popular because of their low toxicity to humans, pets, and many beneficial insects. Because they are one of the safest choices available for controlling pests in the garden or on ornamental plants, they have become used widely by homeowners. Insecticidal soaps work only on contact, so the spray solution must coat the pest. Many brands of insecticidal soap are available. Once the spray has dried, an insect will not be harmed by walking over the residue. For example, spraying only the upper leaf surface will leave whiteflies alive and healthy because they usually feed on the undersurfaces of leaves. Spray only when and where an infestation appears, not as a preventative measure. Symptoms such as leaf or shoot distortion, sooty mold, and holes in leaves require further investigation to determine the cause and extent of the infestation. Once you find a pest, treat only affected plants or spots. Watch for photo-toxicity, an adverse plant reaction, or injury from the soap treatment. Symptoms on foliage include yellow or brown spotting, burned tips, and yellow or brown scorching on leaf edges. Soap spray may also cause marking on certain fruit varieties. Avoid plant injury by not treating plants that are under stress. Make sure plants, including trees, are well-watered before spraying. Newly planted ornamentals, transplants, and unrooted or newly rooted cuttings are under stress and should not be sprayed until they are well established. Conifers are particularly susceptible when under drought stress. Also, avoid treating sensitive plants. The plants listed below are particularly sensitive to insecticidal soap treatment: Horsechestnut Mountain Ash Japanese Maple Gardenia Bleeding Heart Sweet Pea Maidenhair Fern Crown of Thorns Lantana Nasturtium Easter Lily Certain varieties of azalea, begonia, camellia, fuchsia, geranium, and impatiens may be sensitive. If in doubt, test a small part of the plant first. If the plant is sensitive, phototoxic symptoms will appear within forty eight, (48), hours. Do not apply is the temperature is above 900 F or if the plant is in full sun. The best time to apply insecticidal soap is early morning.

Chapter 9 Page 8 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Mineral Pesticides – These pesticides include copper dust and sulfur. Sulfur controls plant disease organisms that cause black spot, scab, rust, powdery mildew, brown rot, and others. A Bordeaux mixture is the product of a reaction between copper sulfate and line. The mixture is sprayed to form a protective membranous covering over plant parts. It controls pathogens that cause anthracnose, downy mildew, cankers, and other diseases. Diatomaceous earth is a dust made from fossilized shells of tiny aquatic organisms. The particles pierce the Sulfur has been used as a mineral insecticide for exoskeletons of soft-bodied insects, causing them to over 3,000 years. It is used to control mildews, desiccate. certain rusts, leaf blights, and fruit rots. The dust is non-selective, killing both harmful and beneficial insects. It loses its effectiveness if it gets wet, and another application is necessary. Minimum Risk Pesticides – The US EPA has identified some pesticides as minimum-risk pesticides, and these products are exempted from FIFRA, (the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act). Individual States may add to this list, based on the criteria below: ♦ Each product containing the list must bear a label identifying the name and percentage weight of each active ingredient an the name of each inert ingredient; ♦ The product must not bear claims either to control or mitigate microorganisms that pose a threat to human health, including, but not limited to, disease-transmitting bacteria or viruses, or claims to control insects or rodents carrying specific diseases, including, but not limited to, ticks that carry Lyme Disease; and ♦ The product must not include any false or misleading labeling statements. Products containing the ingredients shown on the list, (See Appendix I for the Minimum Risk List.), are exempt from the requirements of FIFRA, provided they meet the criteria above. Narrow Spectrum Pesticides – While many insecticides are broad spectrum, killing a wide variety of animals by attacking a system common to all, (such as the nervous system), another group of If pesticide use is warranted, be sure to insecticides may be more useful to the homeowner. know which type of pesticide you need to Narrow spectrum pesticides kill only a specific type use, as well as how to apply it effectively. of pests. For example, chitin inhibitors only affect When in doubt, ask the advice of your animals with chitin in their exoskeleton. Growth County Cooperative Extension Agent, your regulators are even more specific, because they local nursery, or other Certified Pesticide only affect a species that have a particular Applicator. Be sure to ask for the least hormone. Pheromones are the most restrictive toxic product available. because they react with only one species or one sex of a single species. Sometimes, the narrow spectrum pesticides are the best choice, because they may not kill beneficial insects as well as the pest.

Chapter 9 Page 9 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Pheromones – These are naturally produced chemicals used by animals to communicate with each other. There are three basic types of pheromones. Aggregate pheromones attract many individual together, for example, a site where food is plentiful. Sex pheromones are used by one sex of a species to attract a mate. Trail pheromones are deposited by walking insects, such as ants, so that others can follow. Synthetic pheromones produced in laboratories mimic these natural chemicals. Because they do not kill the insect, they are often not considered to be pesticides. Short-term vs. Long-term Residual – Insecticides vary in how long they last as a killing agent. Some break down almost immediately into non-toxic by-products. Glyphosate, which is suggested for use by the US EPA, is a herbicide with a short-term residual. These short-term chemicals are very good in situations where insects or other pests do not return, or where long-term exposure could injure non-target plants or animals. For example, short-term insecticides are often used in homes and dwellings where people and domestic animals may be exposed. Other insecticides remain active killers for a fairly long period of time. The long-term residual pesticides are very useful when the insects are a constant problem and where they will not be an environmental/health hazard. For example, long-term residual insecticides are often used for fly control in livestock buildings or for termite control in wooden structures. Synthetic Chemical Pesticides – Synthetic chemicals are those made by humans. They have helped to increase the quality and diversity of food available to us and to improve human health by controlling diseases. Many synthetic pesticides have been developed since the discovery of DDT in the 1940’s. These include pesticides such as malathion, carbaryl, and the synthetic pyrethroids; fungicides such as chlorothalonil and mancozeb; and herbicides such as 2,4D and glyphosate. In some chases, synthetic chemical pesticides may be the best choice for your pest problem, but avoid exposing people, pets, and other plants and organisms. Be especially careful not to expose people with respiratory problems, asthma, allergies, or heart problems, as well as very old or very young people or pets. Benefits of synthetic chemical pesticides include their quick action, ease of application, and immediate effectiveness. They are often only a temporary solution, however, and repeated applications may be needed. Some cover a very broad spectrum and kill beneficial as well as harmful insects. If pesticides are used indoors, the air may bear residues long after the application. Used properly and in conjunction with other preventative and non-chemical methods, pesticides can help combat pests. Remember that technique and timing of applications are as important as the pesticide used. Read and follow all label Malathion insecticide spray may kill directions. beneficial insects as well as the harmful insects. Some, (not all), synthetic chemicals are discussed within this guide. Label information, safety instructions, and potential effects of pesticide poisoning are also included within this chapter.

Chapter 9 Page 10 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Public drinking water supplies, like the Louisville Water Company, are required to test for Synthetic Organic Chemicals, (SOCs), by the US Did you know? EPA. Many of these chemicals are pesticides. Homeowners use 10 times the amount of Pesticides can enter the groundwater or the pesticides and fertilizers, per acre, than surface water, and can contaminate the water farmers! Be careful with the chemicals you supply. For this reason, as well as human and use on your lawns and flower beds. Try to animal health concerns, it is imperative for use products with low residual rates, homeowners to use pesticides safely. (products that degrade into harmless ♦ Follow the directions on the label. substances quickly), and follow the directions ♦ Use pesticides with low residuals, when on the label. possible. ♦ Use as little of the product as possible to do the job. Be A Good Neighbor!

Pesticide Formulations Dusts – Dusts are formulated for use as dusters. They are ready to use and can not be mixed with water for spraying. The concentration of the active ingredient in such pesticides rarely exceeds 5 to 10 percent. Dusts are most effective when applied when the air is still and the new foliage is covered with dew or moisture. Sprays – Several formulations are packaged for use as sprays. Some of the more common sprays are wettable powders, (WP), flowable formulations, (F), and emulsified concentrates, (EC), or emulsions, sprayable oils, (S), and oil-based sprays. Wettable Powder, (WP), contains an active ingredient, a wetting agent, and an inert material. It must be diluted and sprayed as a water suspension. If your sprayer does not have an agitator, the mixture should be shaken periodically to keep the powder from settling out. Do not use a wettable powder as a dust, as the concentration of the active ingredient will be too high, (40 to 50 percent), and may harm you, your children, pets, or wildlife. It is also wasteful and costly. Wettable powders, mixed with water, adhere to plants longer than dusts, but not as long as emulsified concentrates. Flowable Formulations contain fine particles of the active ingredient suspended in a flowable liquid or paste. It must be diluted with water. Such formulations resemble wettable powders in their other properties. Be sure to follow directions for mixing exactly, and shake occasionally during use. Emulsified Concentrates contain an active ingredient, a solvent, and an emulsifier. Upon dilution with water, these ingredients form an emulsion. Emulsion sprays require less agitation than do suspensions formed by flowables and wettable powders. Caution is stressed because the solvents

may cause or contribute to plant injury.

Chapter 9 Page 11 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Horticulture Spray Oils primarily control scales, mites, and aphids. They are recommended as dormant sprays, (applied early in spring before buds open). They are mixed with water before spraying. An insecticide, ethion, is sometimes formulated with oil. Oil plus ethion is often more effective for scale insect control than oil alone. Oil-based Sprays contain an active ingredient dissolved in a solvent ready for use. It can not be mixed with water. The concentration of pesticides is usually low. Oil-base sprays should not be sprayed directly on plants or animals. Thermal foggers use a special oil-insecticide formulation. Pressurized Cans or Aerosols – Pressurized cans or aerosols are self-contained and require no additional equipment or dilution for use. There are important safety considerations. Regardless of the safety of the active ingredient to humans, certain propellants may be hazardous. Do not leave pressurized cans on a stove or radiator, in direct sunlight, or in the trunk or glove compartment of a car. Temperatures of 120o F or above may cause explosions. Do not puncture cans. Do not use near open flames. Never inhale sprays or discharge an aerosol toward the face of people of animals. To dispose of pressurized cans, exhaust all gas through the release valve and place cans in the household trashcan. There are two basic types of pressurized cans or aerosols: ♦ Space sprays, or true aerosols, dispense a fog or spray of fine droplets that float in the air. They kill flying insects such as flies and mosquitoes. ♦ Surface or residual sprays dispense large droplets that fall from the air rapidly. They form a surface deposit to control crawling insects.

Granules -- Granules can be applied by lawn drop spreaders and seeders or from a self-contained shaker package. Fertilizers and some pesticides are formulated in this manner. Granules are much like dusts, except that the particles are larger and more uniform in size. Fertilizer/pesticide combinations are available as granules or as a fine powder for application with a lawn spreader. They should be used only for the purpose specified on the label. These combinations are NOT recommended in this guide. Wildlife often mistake the granules as seeds, and can become severely ill or die as a result of eating the granules. In addition, despite the convenience, it is very difficult to spread the granules evenly over the turf, which may injure surrounding plants.

Multipurpose Mixtures – Many multipurpose mixtures, (MP) mixtures, are on the market. Most are designed for use on plants. Some multipurpose mixtures are formulated especially for a particular crop such as roses or tomatoes. Prepared multipurpose mixtures often eliminate the need for keeping other pesticides on hand and are more likely to be used up in one season; thus the long-term storage problems are eliminated. Severe outbreaks of hard-to-manage insects or diseases, however, may require selective pesticide treatment. When using a multi-purpose mixture for plant protection, spray at regular intervals throughout the growing season. Purchase a prepared mixture for a specific plant group or prepare your own mixture as

Chapter 9 Page 12 What You Need to Know About Pesticides per the directions. Prepare only what you will use at one spraying. Home-prepared mixtures should not be stored. Use only wettable powder concentrates in preparing multi-purpose mixtures. Shake the spray mixture frequently to keep the powder in suspension. Apply with a compressed-air or hand-pump sprayer, (slide pump or other type). Home Remedies Numerous commonly available products such as vegetable cooking oils, soap, and baking soda have properties that act as pesticides, as do concoctions made from plant extracts such as mint, citrus peel, and marigolds. Both state and federal regulatory agencies prohibit their use on a commercial basis, even though they are environmentally safe and inexpensive. A few home remedies may be listed within this guidebook, but they, or any other pesticide listed within this guide, are not endorsed by the Louisville Water Company or the Louisville Metro Government. In addition, the use of home remedies, or any product or procedure is not recommended nor endorsed for use either expressed or implied. Neither the Louisville Water Company nor the Louisville Metro Government employees, nor its agents, is responsible for any damage or injury to a person or property arising from the use of this information. This guidebook is intended solely for general informational purposes.

Baking soda, garlic cloves, and citrus acid are three home remedies often used as pesticides.

Pesticide Control Legislation All pesticides are regulated by state and federal laws to protect the user and consumer. Pesticides that are highly toxic, persist in the environment, (long-term residual pesticides), or pose some other significant threat to humans or wildlife are placed on a restricted-use list by the EPA or state agency. The KY Dept. of Agriculture can add chemical or other pesticides to the restricted use list in Kentucky. The Restricted Use Pesticides, (RUPs), must be clearly labeled and may be purchased and used only by Certified Applicators. If you have questions about the status of a pesticide, consult your Jefferson County Poison or Toxic labels must be Cooperative Extension, (502-569-2344), or the Division of Environmental clearly placed on all RUPs. Services, KY Dept. of Agriculture, (502-573-0282). No restricted use pesticides are recommended for consumer use within this guide, and can not be purchased by the homeowner for use in their home. If a restricted use pesticide is mentioned, it is only so that the homeowner is aware of its availability through a Certified Applicator, or as a warning to the homeowner who may have an older container of the pesticide as a Do Not Use Product. RSUs must have a Material Safety Data Sheet, (MSDS), available for the consumer, which is either the Certified Applicator or the person purchasing their services and materials.

Chapter 9 Page 13 What You Need to Know About Pesticides If you are using a lawn care company or other company to apply pesticides in your home or on your lawn, you can, by law, request a copy of the Material Safety Data Sheet, (MSDS). The MSDS will explain the toxicity and long term effects of the use of the chemical in the pesticide, as well as requirements for safe storage, use, and disposal of the active chemical ingredient in the pesticide. The MSDS will also explain steps to take if the pesticide is accidentally ingested. Commercial applicators of pesticides, as well as private applicators that use RUPs, must be certified. Certification exams are given throughout the state, as well as educational and training sessions. If you have any questions concerning the certification process, please consult your County Extension Agent, or the KY Dept. of Agriculture, (see phone numbers listed above).

To check the certification of an applicator If you are not sure if a person or a company is a Certified Operator, you may contact the KY Dept. of Agriculture, Agricultural Branch, (see phone number listed above), and ask if that person or company is a Certified Applicator. If you wish to report a person or business that you know is not a Certified Applicator that is applying pesticides or other chemicals to either your property or another property, you may contact the Agricultural Branch, which regulates pesticide use in the state. They have the authority to impose fines on businesses and/or individuals who neglect to follow federal and state laws concerning the proper storage, containment, sale, distribution, application, record keeping, or disposal of pesticides. However, if a company is using chemicals that are listed as a Minimum Risk Pesticide, (MRP), which is exempt from regulation, (see Appendix 1), you may contact the Agricultural Branch of the KY Dept. of Agriculture for more information about the current laws that are in effect about applicators and certification for use of MRPs.

What is Pesticide Registration? The process of registering a pesticide is a scientific, legal, and administrative procedure through which the US EPA examines the ingredients of the pesticide. The EPA also looks at the particular crop or site on which the pesticide is to be used, the amount, frequency, and timing of its use, and storage/disposal practices. In evaluating the registration application, the EPA assesses a wide variety of potential human health and environmental effects associated with the use of this product. The producer of the pesticide must provide data from tests done according to EPA guidelines. (Side Panel: Endrin is now a Restricted Use Pesticide.) The tests performed by the producer of the pesticide evaluates whether a pesticide has the potential to cause adverse effects on humans, wildlife, fish, and plants, including endangered species and non-target organisms. The tests also evaluate the possible contamination of surface water and groundwater from leaching, run-off, and spray drift. Potential human risks range from short-term toxicity to long-term effects, such as cancer and reproductive system disorders. The EPA must also approve the language that appears on each pesticide label. A pesticide product can only be used according to the directions on the label that accompanies the pesticide at the time of sale.

Chapter 9 Page 14 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Federal Pesticide Laws The US EPA regulates pesticides under a broad authority granted in two major statutes, where were amended by the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996. ♦ Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act, (FIFRA) – requires all pesticides sold or distributed in the United States, (include imported pesticides), to be registered by the US EPA. EPA can authorize the limited use of unregistered pesticides or pesticides registered for other uses to address emergencies and special local needs. ♦ Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, (FFDCA) – Requires EPA to set pesticide tolerances for all pesticides used in or on food. A tolerance is the maximum permissible level for pesticide residuals allowed in or on commodities from human food or animal feed. Under the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996, which amended both FIFRA and FFDCA, the EPA must find that a pesticide poses a “reasonable certainty of no harm” before that pesticide can be registered for use on food or feed. Several factors must be addressed before a tolerance can be established, including:

♦ The aggregate, non-occupational exposure from the pesticide, (such as exposure through diet, from using the pesticides in and around the home, and from drinking water); ♦ The cumulative effects from exposure to different pesticides that produce similar effects on the human body;

♦ Whether there is an increased susceptibility to infants Remember that some food is imported and children, or other sensitive sub-populations, from from foreign countries that may not have exposure to the pesticide; and regulations designed to protect human ♦ Whether the pesticide produces an effect in humans health. Always wash fruits and vegetables similar to an effect produced by a naturally-occurring carefully before eating. estrogen or produces other endocrine-disruption effects.

Types of Registration Under FIFRA Federal Registration Action – EPA can register pesticides for use throughout the US. Some pesticides are registered by EPA for more limited use in certain states. In addition, States, Tribes, and Territories can place further restrictions on pesticides, or other EPA-registered products used or sold within their own jurisdiction. Experimental Use Permits, (EUPs) – The EPA can allow manufacturers to field test pesticides under development. Manufacturers of conventional pesticides are required to obtain EUPs before testing new pesticides if they conduct experimental field tests on 10 acres or more of land or one acre or more of water. Biopesticides also require EUPs when used in experimental settings. Emergency Exemption – The EPA can allow State and Federal agencies to permit the use of a pesticide in a specific geographic area for a limited time if emergency pest conditions exist. Usually this arises when growers and others encounter a pest problem on a site for which there is no registered pesticide available, or for which there is a registered product that would be effective but is not yet approved for use on that particular site. Also, exemptions can be made for public health and quarantine reasons.

Chapter 9 Page 15 What You Need to Know About Pesticides State-Specific Registrations – The States can register a new pesticide product for any use, or a federally-registered product for an additional use, as long as there is a demonstrated “special local need”, and a tolerance, exemption from a tolerance, or other clearance under FFDCA. The EPA can disapprove a State’s special local need registration. The EPA’s registration program places high priority on registering pesticides that are safer than pesticides currently on the market, those with public health benefits, and pesticides that are of particular economic importance to producers.

What substances are not regulated as pesticides? The definition of a pesticide is quite broad, but it does have some exclusions: ♦ Drugs used to control diseases of humans or animals, (such as livestock and pets), are not considered pesticides, such as drugs regulated by the Food and Drug Administration; ♦ Fertilizers, nutrients, and other substances used to promote plant survival and health are not considered plant growth regulators, and are not considered to be pesticides; ♦ Biological control agents, except for certain microorganisms, are exempted from regulation by the EPA, (includes beneficial predators such as birds or ladybugs that eat insect pests); and Products that contain low risk ingredients, (MRPs), are not regulated by the EPA, but still may be regulated by the KY Dept. of Agriculture. The Praying Mantis is a beneficial insect that eats pests.

Are all pesticides dangerous? Not all pesticides are dangerous or hazardous to humans. For example, a pesticide known as ‘milky spore’, which is actually a kind of bacteria, is not dangerous to humans, animals, or beneficial insects. It is a Selective Insecticide, because it kills only certain types of beetles. It kills Japanese Beetles, Oriental Beetles, Rose Chafers, and certain May and June Beetles. In general, because pesticides are supposed to prevent, destroy, or repel pests they can also be dangerous to humans, animals, or the environment. The signal word on the label will tell you how dangerous a pesticide is to humans. In addition to signal words, the danger or hazard to humans depends on your exposure to the pesticide, and how the pesticide is used. It is very important to use pesticides properly, which means according to the label. Doing so reduces the chances of causing health problems for you, your children, your pets, and wildlife, and damage to the environment. Misusing a pesticide can cause problems. Pesticides are misused when you do not follow the label instructions. Some examples of misuse are: ♦ Using a pesticide for pests that are not listed on the label, (for example, using an ant killer on a possible mosquito infestation); ♦ Using more of a pesticide or making it stronger than it says on the label, (for example, mixing a concentrated pesticide with more than the recommended amount of pesticide with water); and ♦ Using a pesticide in a location that is not on the label, (for example, if a pesticide says “For Outdoor Use Only”, do not use it inside the home).

Chapter 9 Page 16 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Regulated Pest Control Devices Although pest control devices are not required to be registered with EPA, some other regulatory requirements do apply to these devices. Some common examples of such pest control devices that are subject to other regulatory requirements are: ♦ Ultraviolet light systems, certain water and air filters, or ultrasonic devices that make claims that the device kills, inactivates, entraps , or suppresses growth of bacteria, fungi, or viruses; ♦ High frequency sound generators, carbide cannons, foils, and rotating devices that make claims about repelling pests, such as birds and insects;

♦ Black-light, (ultraviolet light), traps, fly traps, (without an The use of an under-sink attractant substance other than food), electronic and heat ultraviolet light water filter may screens, fly ribbons, glueboards, and fly paper that make remove specific types of claims about killing or entrapping insects; and bacteria from drinking water.

♦ Mole thumpers, sound repellents, foils, and rotating devices that make claims about repelling certain mammals. Devices are subject to certain labeling requirements. Labels for devices must meet certain requirements to make sure they are not misbranded. The requirements dealing with misbranding are established by the FIFRA, and include, but are not limited to: ♦ Devices may not bear any statements that are false or misleading; and ♦ The pesticide establishment number of the device’s producer must appear on the label and on the outer container or wrapper if it cannot be seen because of packaging. Any facility producing a device must be registered with EPA, have an establishment number and meet certain reporting requirements. Unregulated Pest Control Devices Examples of unregulated pest control devices include: ♦ Devices whose effectiveness depends more upon the performance of the person using the device than on the performance of the device itself; and ♦ Devices which operate to entrap vertebrate animals, except glueboards. Products generally falling under this category include rat and mouse traps, A mouse trap is an effective fly swatters, tillage equipment for weed control, and fish traps. non-chemical control for mice and small rodents.

Chapter 9 Page 17 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Introduction to Integrated Pest Management Plants, insects, molds, mildew, rodents, bacteria, and other organisms are a natural part of the environment. They can benefit people in many ways. BUT, they can also be pests.

♦ Apartments and houses are often hosts to common pests such as cockroaches, fleas, termites, ants, mice, rats, mold, or mildew;

♦ Weeds, hornworms, aphids, and grubs can be a nuisance outdoors when they get into your lawn, flowers, yard, vegetable garden, or fruit or shade trees; and

♦ Pests can be a health hazard to you, your family, or your pets. Whether used to control insects, rodents, weeds, microbes, or fungi, pesticides have important benefits. They help farmers provide an affordable and plentiful food supply. Pesticides are also used in other settings such as our homes, offices, and schools to control pests as common as the cockroach, termites, and mice. Pesticides do pose risks to human health and the environment when people do not follow directions on product labels or use products irresponsibly. For example, some people might use pesticides when they are not really needed, apply too much, or apply or dispose of them in a manner that could contaminate water or harm wildlife. Even alternative or organic pesticides can have these unintended consequences if used incorrectly. Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), is an approach to pest control that offers a means to reduce the risk from, and in some cases, the amount of, chemical pesticides needed. In many cases, there are steps that pesticide users can take BEFORE they have a pest problem to PREVENT the need for pesticides. When a pest problem, such as an insect infestation is identified, pesticide users often have a choice among differing solutions to their pest problems. These pest control strategies present different levels of risk to human health and the environment. What is IPM? Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), is an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices. IPM programs are current, comprehensive information on the life cycles of pests and their interaction with the environment. This information, in combination with available pest control methods, is used to manage pest damage by the most economical means and with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment. IPM takes advantage of all appropriate pest management options including, but not limited to, the judicious use of pesticides. In contrast, organic food production applies many of the same concepts as IPM, but limits the use of pesticides to those that are produced from natural sources, as opposed to synthetic chemicals. Removing sources of water can help prevent pest invasions.

Chapter 9 Page 18 What You Need to Know About Pesticides How do IPM programs work? IPM is not a single pest control method, but, rather, a series of pest management evaluations, decisions, and controls. In practicing IPM, follow these four steps: 1. Set Action Thresholds – Before taking any pest control action, IPM first sets an action threshold, a point at which pest populations or environmental conditions indicate that pest control action must be taken. Sighting a single pest does not always mean that pest control is needed. The level at which pests either become a threat to human or pet health, yard and garden health, or a threat to the family economics is critical to guide pest control decisions. 2. Monitor and Identify Pests – Not all insects, weeds, and other living organisms require control. Many organisms are innocuous, and some are even beneficial. IPM programs work to monitor pests and identify them accurately, so that appropriate control decisions can be made in conjunction with action thresholds. This monitoring and identification removes the possibility that pesticides will be used when they are not really needed, or that the wrong kind of pesticide will be used. 3. Prevention – As a first line of pest control, IPM programs work to manage the lawn or indoor space to prevent pests from becoming a threat. Outside, this may mean using cultural methods, such as selecting pest-resistant varieties of plants and planting pest-free rootstock. These control methods can be very effective and cost-efficient, and presents little or no risk to the environment. 4. Control – Once monitoring, identification, and action thresholds indicate that pest control is required, and preventative methods are no longer effective or available, IPM programs then evaluate the proper control method both for effectiveness and risk. Effective, less risky pest control methods are chose first, including highly targeting chemicals, such as pheromones to disrupt pest mating, or mechanical control, such as trapping or weeding. If further monitoring, identifications, and action thresholds indicate that less risky controls are not working, then additional pest control methods would be employed, such as targeted spraying of pesticides. Broadcast spraying of non-specific pesticides is a last resort. More information about Integrated Pest Management will be discussed later in this guide.

Using Pesticides Safely Pesticide Safety Tips Although pesticides can be useful, they also can be dangerous if used carelessly or are not stored properly. Here are some important tips for safer pest control: General Safety 1. The most effective way to reduce risks posed by pesticides is to use non-chemical control methods to reduce or eliminate pest problems. Around the home, such measures include removing sources of food and water, (such as leaky pipes), and destroying breeding sites and shelters, such as little and plant debris. 2. Use Cultural Controls where possible. (See Cultural Control.) 3. If you decide that you must use pesticides, always READ THE LABEL FIRST! Follow the directions to the An accumulation of plant debris can be a letter, including all precautions and restrictions. breeding ground for outdoor pests.

Chapter 9 Page 19 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 4. Don’t use products for pests that are not indicated on the label. Make sure you are using the right pesticide for the job. 5. Don’t use more pesticide that directed by the label. Twice the amount will not do twice the job. 6. Use Ready-to-Use products when possible, to avoid accidents

while mixing. 7. If using a commercial applicator or lawn service, ask for information about potential risks and safety precautions to take. See more information in our “Choosing a Lawn Care Service” section. 8. Don’t buy more pesticides than you need. If you have any leftover pesticides, check with your local government and use a household hazardous waste disposal program, if you can. If no community program exists, follow label directions and any state or local regulations regarding disposal. 9. Keep pesticides separate from other items in the shopping cart, and make sure they are wrapped in a separate bag at the checkout

stand. 10. Transport pesticides in the trunk of your car instead of the backseat to avoid contaminating the car interior in case of breakage. 11. Keep the telephone number of your Poison Control Center near your telephone: 1-800-222-1222. 12. Teach children that Pesticides Are Poisonous! Pesticides are something they should never touch! 13. NEVER transfer pesticides to other containers – especially those that children may associate with food, such as soft drink or milk bottles. 14. Alert others to the potential hazards of pesticides -- especially care givers and grandparents. 15. Use protective measures when handling pesticides as directed by the label, such as wearing impermeable gloves, long pants, and long-sleeved shirts. Change clothes and wash any exposed skin immediately after applying pesticides. See our section on “Laundering clothing with pesticide residue” for safe laundry techniques. 16. Pay attention to Signal Words on the label. (See About the Label.) These words tell you about the toxicity of the pesticide you are applying. 17. Do not eat, drink, smoke, or chew gum while handling pesticides.

18. NEVER pour leftover pesticides into an abandoned well. The pesticide enters the groundwater directly, and can easily contaminate drinking water supplies. 19. Dispose of leftover pesticides by following the instructions on the label. Never pour a pesticide into a septic system, unless directed to do so by the label. 20. Never mix pesticides contaminated clothing with your

regular laundry and wash the contaminated clothing promptly. Open well casing

Chapter 9 Page 20 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 21. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling pesticides and before eating. 22. Avoid wearing soft contact lenses when dealing with pesticides. Soft contact lenses may absorb vapors from the air and hold them against your eyes. Indoor Safety 23. NEVER use outdoor chemicals indoors! Outdoor pesticides are designed with higher residuals, (time when the pesticide is active), that cause increased exposure time and dose when used indoors. 24. Before applying a pesticide, (indoors or outdoors), remove children, their toys, clothing, and pets from the area and keep

them away until the pesticide has dried or as Always dispose of pesticides according to the label’s recommended by the label. instructions. If you can, use a household hazardous 25. Turn off indoor air circulation systems waste disposal site and follow their directions for before applying a pesticide. Resume only preparing the pesticide for disposal. after the pesticide has dried or as recommended by the label. 22. Remove or cover food, including pet foods, during applications. Make sure to cover small animal cages or fish tanks prior to spraying. 23. Always store pesticides away from children’s reach, in a locked cabinet or garden shed. Child-proof safety latches also may be installed on cabinets and can be purchased as local hardware stores and other retail outlets. 24. Never place rodent or insect baits where small children or pets can get to them. 25. Air out the building adequately after a pesticide is applied indoors. Open doors and The use of childproof locks can prevent a windows, and run overhead, whole-house, or tragedy! window fans to exchange indoor air for outdoor air rapidly and completely. Outdoor Safety 26. Examine the area to be treated and the surrounding area. Are there plants or animals that could be harmed by the pesticide? Don’t spray if you can not guarantee they will not be injured. You are responsible for any damage that may occur. 27. If you have a banned granular pesticide stored, dispose of it property through a Household Hazardous Materials Disposal site, or according to the directions on the label. Do not use the pesticide! 28. Some pesticides are volatile in heat, vaporizing and rising off the treated surfaces, moving with breezes as an invisible cloud until, once cooled, they are deposited at a distant location. Pesticides should not be applied in very hot weather.

Chapter 9 Page 21 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 29. Don’t spray outdoors on windy or rainy days. Take precautions to keep the pesticide from drifting or running off into the vegetable garden, pool, or neighbor’s yard. 30. If spraying outdoors, make sure than rainfall will not cause surface water drainage toward a pond or other water body. 31. If a close neighbor or someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your home, you may want to stay indoors with Be smart: do not use “broad spectrum” pesticides unless your children and pets. Keep windows and there is no other alternative. Use pesticides that are exterior doors closed. specifically designed for the pest that needs to be controlled. Wear protective clothing, as directed by the 32. Keep children, pets, toys, pet dishes, and label. Don’t spray on windy or rainy days to prevent other items out of downwind areas. “drift”.

33. Calibrate all pesticide applicator equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions before applying a pesticide. 34. Be a good neighbor. Request that your lawn company place a sign in your yard when any chemicals are applied to your lawn, including fertilizers, or, if you are applying the pesticide, place your own sign on your yard as a warning to neighbors. About the Label Many household products contain pesticidal and toxic ingredients that can be harmful to humans, animals, or the environment. Even so, we use these products to clean or maintain our home. Or, they are useful because they control disease-causing organisms, insects, weeds, or other pests. The label is your guide to using products safely and effectively. Why read the labels? Consumer product labels contain valuable use instructions and precautions that can help you keep your family, pets, and the environment safe. By reading the label first, you can prevents accidents from occurring. Reading the label also saves money. Follow the guidelines on the amount of pesticide to use for the job. You’ll save money and frustration. Buy the right amount for your needs. Buy only what you need and pass any leftovers on to someone else that can use it. Some products may not be good if stored for long periods of time. A larger size might not be a good value if you don’t use it all. Use the right amount for the job. Labels indicate the correct amount to use. Using more than what is recommended is not better. It wastes the product and the money that you have spent. In some cases, using more than the recommended amount can hurt people, pets, and the environment. Look at the generic label below to understand the information conveyed. You have a legal responsibility. Did you know that pesticide labels are legal documents? If you don’t read the label and follow its instructions carefully, you are at fault, and liable, when and if problems result.

Chapter 9 Page 22 What You Need to Know About Pesticides

Product Name Brand Name – appears boldly on the label. It is the name by which the product is advertised. Common Name – the same chemical may appear on the shelf under several brand names, but the common name, may be the same. For example, carbaryl is the common name for Sevin. Its chemical name, 1-haphthyl N-methylcarbamate, is too difficult to remember. Carbaryl is found in a variety of different pesticide products. Directions for Use This section tells you what the pesticide product controls, as well as where, how, and when to use the product. Often, the product manufacturer has included a booklet with the container. Some provide toll-free numbers for consumers to use to obtain additional information. Follow these instructions exactly, including the use of protective equipment, and the application process. Do not over apply the pesticide. This section will also describe whether the pesticide is for general or restricted use. Do you use a restricted use pesticide unless you are a certified pesticide applicator. According to FIFRA, a general use pesticide is one that, when applied according to its directions, will not generally cause unreasonable adverse reactions on the environment. Misuse Statement You will be warned on the label that if you fail to follow label directions exactly, you are violating federal law. Precautions This section describes the potential hazards to people or pets, and actions that you can take to reduce those hazards. It may also contain statements that provide information on how to protect children and pets. Example: wearing gloves, or safety glasses, covering fish tanks or bird cages, or removing children from the area.

Chapter 9 Page 23 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Signal Words Look for Signal Words. These words show how toxic or hazardous a product can be. A symbol for toxicity, the skull and cross-bones, may be used to denote highly toxic materials. It will be accompanied by the words DANGER and POISON. Less toxic pesticides may be given the signal word WARNING if there is a specific hazard, such as severe skin or eye injury, or a particular danger to the environment. For these products, the word “Poison” or the skull and crossbones is not on the label. Pesticides with the signal word CAUTION are the least toxic to people and are generally less hazardous. Table 2 – Signal Words

Warnings are based on the amount that is needed to kill 50% Signal Toxicity of a laboratory population of test animals, (mice, rats, Word Warning etc.), if taken orally.

DANGER or POISON is the strongest signal word. If a label has the word DANGER on it, you must be extremely careful Poison/ when using the product, or you could get very sick, become Highly Toxic Danger injured, go blind, or even die. DANGER is also used on products that could explode if they get hot. A few drops to one teaspoon will kill an average person

WARNING is less strong than DANGER, but it still means that Moderately you could become ill or be seriously hurt. Warning is also used Warning Toxic to identify products that can easily catch on fire. One teaspoon to one ounce will kill and average person

CAUTION shows that the product could hurt you, but it is less harmful than other the products. CAUTION is used on Slightly Caution products that could damage your skin, make you sick if you Toxic breathed the fumes, or cause injury if the product got into your eyes. Requires more than one ounce to kill an average person

Environmental Hazards This section tells you if the product is potentially harmful to wildlife, fish, or endangered plants or animals. It will also tell you if the product may adversely affect wetlands or water resources. The section may also include statements concerning toxicity to honeybees, and surface or groundwater contamination. The section provides additional information on what to do to avoid environmental damage. Physical or Chemical Hazards This section notes hazards such as corrosivity, exclusivity, or flammability. For example, If the product is flammable, it should not be used near open flames.

Storage and Disposal The storage and disposal portion of the label tells how to best store and dispose of the product. It also tells you what to do with unused product, and the empty container.

Chapter 9 Page 24 What You Need to Know About Pesticides First Aid The first aid portion of the label tells you what to do if someone accidentally swallows or breathes the pesticide, or gets it on their skin, or in their eyes. It will usually tell you what exposure requires medical attention, such as swallowing or inhaling the product or getting it in your eyes or on your skin. Labels may also contain “Notes to Physicians”, which provide doctors with special medical information. Keep the number of the Poison Control Center near your telephone, and call for instructions before administering any medication to induce vomiting. It is a good idea to immediately flush eyes or skin areas with water, then call the Poison Control Center for additional information. It is also a good idea to take the pesticide label with you to the attending physician. Active Ingredients This section identifies active ingredients of the product. The active ingredient is the pesticide. The pesticide may be listed either by chemical name or common name. It must be listed as a percentage by weight or pounds per gallon of concentrate. A packaged pesticide, or a ready-to-use pesticide, consists of an active ingredient, (or ingredients), and inert ingredients. The active ingredient is the chemical responsible for the activity that the pesticide accomplishes. It must be listed on the label, along with its percentage by weight in the container. A product with a low concentration of the active ingredient is less hazardous to handle than one with a high concentration of the same active ingredient. Inert ingredients are not usually listed by name, but may include materials such as water or even flammable or toxic solvents such as Xylene. Inert ingredients are added to give bulk to the ready-to-use product available to homeowners, and to reduce the overall toxicity by diluting the active ingredient. They may also serve as solvents or carriers to spread the pesticide more evenly. Chemical fact sheets are available for all RUPs and many other chemical ingredients of pesticides. Material Safety Data Sheets are available for all RUPs, and may be requested from the seller or applicator by the homeowner. For more information about a specific pesticide ingredient, the homeowner may find a chemical fact sheet from the EPA on their website. Fact sheets are available for most active ingredients in pesticides from this web site. The web address is listed below: http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemical_fs.htm Other Inert Ingredients This may not be listed on all products, but the percentage of their content is required to be listed on the label. The listing of inert ingredients is the percentage of other ingredients in the pesticide product that are used to dilute the strength of the product or helps the product to work more effectively. Inert ingredients are currently placed into four categories by the EPA. They include: 1. Inert products of toxicological concern; 2. Potentially toxic inert products, (of high priority); 3. Inert products of unknown toxicity; and 4. Inert products of minimal concern.

Chapter 9 Page 25 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Warranty Statement This statement is intended to limit the manufacturing company’s liability or to act as a disclaimer. Occasionally, it is a warranty for the product. Type of Formulation Pesticides come in different forms: liquids, wettable powders, dusts, etc. Each form is handled differently, and the label identifies the formulation. A listing of the formulation types is found below. These formulation types have been discussed previously in this chapter.

Table 3 – Formulation Types

Abbr. Type Abbr. Type E or EC Emulsified Concentrate DF Dry flowable F, L, or FL Flowable WDG Water Dispersible Granule ULV Ultra Low Volume WDL Water Dispersible Liquid D Dust AF Aqueous Flowable B Bait AS Aqueous Suspension G Granular ES Emulsified Solution P or PS Pellet MTF Multiple Temperature Formulation W or WP Wettable Powder OL Oil-soluble Liquid S or SP Soluble Powder SL Slurry

Name and Address of Manufacturer The law requires the manufacturer to identify itself by name and address. Some manufacturers provide a toll free number that the consumer may contact for more information. Wet Weight/Net Contents Statement The net contents tell you the amount of the product in the container. EPA Registration Number FIFRA requires all pesticides to be registered. This includes all pesticides used in and around homes, swimming pools, businesses, public buildings, and in agriculture. Before any registration is issued, the manufacturer must submit data to the Pesticide Registration Division of the EPA showing that the product, when used as directed; 1. Is effective against the pests listed on the label; 2. Will not injure humans, animals, crops, or damage the environment; and 3. Will not result in illegal residues on feed and food. The EPA registration number is not a guarantee or endorsement of product effectiveness. EPA Establishment Number This is a number that identifies the particular facility where the final phase of production of the pesticide product took place. Neighbor Notification Law According to the KY Dept. of Agriculture, the Neighbor Notification Law applies to Certified Applicators, such as commercial lawn services, golf courses, etc. that apply lawn chemicals and pesticides to large areas, (as opposed to spot treatments). In the State of Kentucky, if a property owner, (or lessee), wishes to be informed prior to the application of a pesticide, the homeowner may contact either the commercial applicator or commercial property owner and request notification. By law, the applicator must inform the

Chapter 9 Page 26 What You Need to Know About Pesticides property owner at least twenty-four, (24), hours prior to application that a pesticide will be applied on the property. In Kentucky, for example, if you, the homeowner or lessee, wants to know when your neighbor applies lawn pesticides to their property, you may contact the company that applies the chemical to the lawn and request notification. If you live next to or near a golf course or other commercial or industrial property, you may request that the golf course, commercial, or industrial property manager notify you prior to the application of pesticides to their property. Other states may have similar laws.

Be a Good Neighbor! As a good neighbor, you should request that your lawn company place a sign in your yard when any chemicals are applied to your lawn, including fertilizers, or, if they so desire, request that your lawn company notify your neighbors prior to any application of pesticides to your lawn. It will make it much easier for your lawn company to comply with regulations if you can provide them with the names and addresses of your neighbors who wish to be notified prior to application. Protect your children and your pets by keeping them off the lawn for at least twenty-four, (24), hours after the application. If possible, use plastic owls, rubber snakes, or other non-chemical repellents on your property to protect the wildlife. These and other non-chemical Realistic plastic owls may be used to repel birds. repellents will be discussed further later.

Pesticide Exposure Even if you never use pesticides yourself, you can still be exposed to them—at home, school, work, or play—by being in treated areas, as a consumer of commodities that others have treated with pesticides, or through food, water, and air that may have been contaminated with pesticides. First, how harmful a chemical is to you depends on your exposure to it. A simple way to think about exposure is “how strong” the product is and “how long” was your contact with the product. Knowing your exposure is important to trying to find out if a chemical is causing health problems. Figuring out what your exposure was to a chemical can be tricky because sometimes it takes a long time after you come in contact with a chemical before you get sick. Or it can take repeated contact with a chemical before you get sick or have a reaction, like vomiting or developing a rash. Ask yourself these four questions: 1. How did you come into contact with the chemical? Did some spray from a glass cleaner get on your skin? Did you accidentally walk into a room where an insect bomb had been set off before the recommended time? Did walk through the grass after a chemical treatment? Did you get a lot of flea and tick shampoo on you when washing the dog? 2. How long were you in contact with the chemical? Did you work in the garden all day after the lawn chemical was applied, or just walk through by mistake? Did you sleep in a room that had just been painted? Did you forget to remove your clothing after applying a pesticide on the lawn? 3. How much of the chemical did you come into contact with? Was it a few drops of insect spray, or enough to make a large wet spot on your clothing? How much insect powder to kill ants did you get on your hands, a little on your finger or all over you hands? How much liquid cleaner spilled on your clothes, a little splash or half the bottle? 4. How strong or toxic is the chemical? What is the signal word on the label on the container— Caution, Warning, or Danger?

Chapter 9 Page 27 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Whether you have a toxic effect from any chemical substance is dependent on the amount of chemical you are exposed to, or the dose. The dose is the amount of the chemical that your body absorbs and processes. The effect can vary according to your body weight, age, and overall health. Children are often more easily affected by chemicals than adults because they are younger and they usually weigh less than adults. Pets are more easily affected as well, because they are smaller. Even small doses of some chemical can cause an adverse reaction to children and pets.

Routes of Exposure Poisons may enter the bloodstream by three main routes. The can be ingested by swallowing, they can be inhaled, or they can be absorbed. If swallowed, the chemical may enter the bloodstream through the stomach or intestine walls, just as nutrients do. Chemicals that are suspended in the air as fine droplets or vapors can be inhaled and enter the bloodstream through the lungs. Chemicals can be absorbed through the skin and enter the bloodstream through blood vessels. Chemicals that are splashed in the eye may enter the bloodstream via blood vessels as well as irritating or damaging the eye.

The three main route of exposure. Anyone handling or applying pesticides should protect themselves and others from all of these routes of exposure. Wear protective clothing and equipment listed under the Directions for Use on the label whenever you handle pesticides. Keep unprotected persons out of the area being treated. If you spill a pesticide on yourself, remove any contaminated clothing and place it into a plastic bag, and wash the skin with soap and water immediately. Do not eat, drink, smoke, or chew gum while handling pesticides. When handling pesticides, always wear the protective clothing listed on the label. Long pants and long shirtsleeves are the minimal protection that should be worn when handling any pesticide. Even if not recommended, it is a good idea to wear safety glasses or goggles to minimize the risk of splashing the pesticide in your eyes.

The pesticide label may also recommend additional protection, such as a respirator or protective mask. Before purchasing the pesticide make sure that you have all of the recommended safety equipment needed for its safe application. Keep unprotected children and pets out of the area while applying the pesticide and away from treated areas. Reducing the Risk of Exposure to Residual Pesticides To ensure a safe food supply, EPA regulates the safety of food by setting safety standards to limit the amount of pesticide residues that legally may remain in or on food or animal feed that is sold in the United States. Both domestic and imported foods are monitored by the Food and Drug Administration, (FDA), and the US Department of Agriculture, (USDA), to ensure compliance with these safety

Chapter 9 Page 28 What You Need to Know About Pesticides standards. As a homeowner, if you grow your own vegetables, you can limit the amount of pesticides that you use, to reduce your risk further.

Because most crops are treated with pesticides at least some of the time, foods that you buy at the grocery may contain small traces of pesticide residues. Pesticide levels tend to decline over time because the residues break down and because crops are usually washed and processed before reaching the market. So, while we consume small amounts of pesticides regularly, levels in our food generally are well below legal limits by the time food reaches the grocery store. Home vegetable gardens can be a way to further reduce pesticide residues on food.

Although EPA sets safety standards for the amount of pesticide residues allowed both in and on foods, you can take extra precautions to reduce the traces of pesticide residues you and your family consume in the food that you buy. Follow these suggestions:

6 Trim the fat from meat and poultry because residues of some pesticides concentrate in fat. Remove the skin from fish.

6 Discard the fat and oils in broths and pan drippings.

6 Rinse fruits and vegetables thoroughly with water. Scrub them with a brush and peel them, if possible. Taking these safety steps will remove most of the existing surface residues, along with any remaining dirt. Note that surface cleaning, (rinsing and scrubbing), will not remove pesticide residues that are absorbed into the growing fruit or vegetable before harvest.

6 Cook or bake foods to reduce residues of some pesticides even further.

Growing your own food can be an enjoyable activity. It is also a way to reduce your exposure to pesticide residues in food. How? 6 Don’t use chemical pesticides on your produce; 6 Choose a garden site where drift or runoff from a neighbor’s use of pesticides will not result in unintended residues on your food. 6 Don’t plant your garden where regular pesticide treatments of your home are applied.

While it may seem that hunting your own game, catching your own fish, or gathering wild plant foods would reduce your overall exposure to pesticides, that isn’t necessarily true. If you eat wild animals or plants from areas where pesticides are frequently used, this food may contain pesticide residues. In addition, birds such as ducks and geese may absorb pesticide residues if they have stopped to eat treated crops anywhere along their flight path, or from fish contaminated from pesticide runoff.

Chapter 9 Page 29 What You Need to Know About Pesticides If you eat food from the wild, you may want to take the following steps to reduce your exposure to pesticides: 6 Do not fish in water bodies where contamination has occurred. Pay attention to posted signs and warnings; 6 Consult with fish and game officials or other appropriate officials where you plan to hunt or fish to determine if there are any chemical problems associated with the area; 6 Do not pick wild plants that are growing next to a road, utility of right-of-way, or hedgerow between farm fields. These areas are likely to have been treated with pesticides; and 6 When preparing wild foods, trim fat from the meat and discard the skin from fish.

When pesticides are applied to land, a certain amount may run off into streams and rivers. This runoff, with industrial waste, may result in low-level contamination of surface water. In certain settings – for example, when sandy soil lies over a groundwater source that is near the surface, along rivers and streams – pesticides can seep down through the soil to the groundwater. To ensure a safe supply of drinking water, EPA’s Office of Water sets standards for pesticides and other chemicals that may be found in drinking water. Municipal water systems test their water periodically and provide treatment of alternate supply sources if residue problems occur. Generally, private wells are not tested unless the well owner requests an analysis—and even then, the homeowner may be responsible for the costs of testing. If you get your drinking water from a private well: 6 Contact your state or local health department if you have any questions about pesticide or other chemical residues in well-water; 6 If your well water is analyzed and found to contain pesticide residue levels above established or recommended health standards, use an alternate water source, such as bottled water from a municipal source, for drinking and cooking. If you buy water from a local bottler, ask to for the results of any recent pesticide analysis of the bottled water. Use good housekeeping techniques: NEVER pour a pesticide into an abandoned well or into a septic system! By doing so, you are putting the pesticide directly into the drinking water! If your property abuts or contains a surface water body like a stream or lake, make sure that you have a buffer zone between any area where you may apply pesticides and the water. This means that you need at least a six foot wide strip of shrubs, plants, or ground cover that will absorb any runoff from your property before it enters the water. Make sure to apply pesticides during dry periods with little rain. Check the residual time of the pesticide you are applying to make sure that there is enough time for the pesticide to biodegrade before entering any water body. Short residual times are more desirable than longer residual times. Use environmentally friendly products whenever possible, and use products designed to be applied near water.

Chapter 9 Page 30 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Air currents may carry pesticides that were applied on properties nearby. You can reduce your exposure outdoors to airborne pesticide residues, or drift, by following these recommendations: 6 If a close neighbor or someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your home, you may want to stay indoors with your children and pets. Keep windows and exterior doors closed; 6 If you live near fields, parks, or other areas that receive regular pesticide treatment, consider planting a group of hardy, thick-branched trees or shrubs to help serve as a buffer zone and windbreak.

6 Careless application can lead to drift or direct spraying of non-target sites. If your property is accidentally sprayed during an aerial pesticide application, you should call your local, state, or regional pesticide office immediately. If you or someone in your family is accidentally sprayed, wash the pesticide off immediately and change into clean clothes. Place the contaminated clothing into a plastic bag for later cleaning. Then call your local poison center at 1-800-222-1212.

Some local governments require public notice before area-wide or broad-scale pesticide spraying activities take place. Affected residents are notified through newspaper announcements, fliers, letters, or signs posted in areas to be treated. Some communities have also enacted “right-to-know” ordinances that require public notice, (usually through posting) of lawn treatments and other small-scale pesticide uses. Remember that you can request notice of application from a commercial applicator prior to spraying. Remember also to be a good neighbor and notify others when you wish to apply pesticides or fertilizers to your lawn. The air you breathe indoors may contain low levels of pesticide residues long after a pesticide has been applied to certain objects inside a building or to indoor surfaces and crawl spaces, or after it has been tracked in from outside. Pesticides break down and disappear more slowly indoors than outdoors. In addition, many homes have built-in energy efficient features that reduce the exchange of indoor and outdoor air and thus aggravate the problem. To limit your exposure to indoor pesticide residues: 6 Air out the building adequately after a pesticide is applied indoors. Open doors and windows, and run overhead, whole-house, or window fans to exchange indoor air for outdoor air rapidly and completely. 6 If you suspect that the air in your building is contaminated, consult knowledgeable professionals in your local or state health department or the National Pesticide Information Center at 1-800-858- 7378, seven days a week, from 9:30 am to 7:30 pm, Eastern Time, for advice on the appropriate steps to take.

Chapter 9 Page 31 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Selecting Protective Clothing Before you apply any pesticide or chemical product to your lawn or in your home, carefully choose protective clothing and equipment that can be de-contaminated, or discarded, after use.

You should select 100% cotton, long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and a head covering. Avoid using leather products such as shoes, belts, or wristwatch bands, as they can not be de-contaminated after use. Wear rubber boots that can be de-contaminated. Wear protective gear as recommended on the label of the product: rubber gloves, safety glasses, a face shield, and a mask or respirator. These items may be purchased at your local hardware store, usually.

Gloves – When the pesticide label recommends gloves, wear chemically-resistant gloves. Chemical resistant means that pesticides will not pass through the glove material.

6 Always check the label for appropriate gloves to wear; 6 Never wear leather, fabric, or fabric-lined gloves; 6 Use gloves that extend at least to the mid forearm; 6 Replace gloves often – check for holes and leaks; 6 Never place contaminated hands inside gloves.

General Clothing – Some pesticide labels may recommend a long-sleeved shirt and long-legged pants of a sturdy, woven fabric. Wear sleeves outside gloves, and pants outside boots. 6 Select unlined, waterproof boots that reach at least halfway to the knee; 6 Do not wear leather or canvas shoes or boots; if a pesticide is spilled or sprayed on these materials, they hold the pesticide close to the skin, increasing the rate of absorption; 6 Leather or canvas shoes or boots can not be de-contaminated properly.

Headgear – Select a wide-brimmed, waterproof hat that will protect the neck, eyes, mouth, and face. Plastic hard hats with plastic sweatbands are a good choice as they are waterproof. Avoid hats with a cloth or leather headband. Face shields – Some pesticide products recommend the use of a face shield to prevent ingestion of the pesticide during mixing or application. Disposable face shields may usually be found at the local hardware store and are not an expensive safety feature.

Safety Glasses – The use of safety glasses with side shields, or goggles, are recommended for some products. Normal eye glasses do not provide protection on the side of the glasses, and should be accompanied by safety glasses if recommended. Usually, these comfortably fit over regular eyeglasses, without impairing vision. If you have trouble reading without your eye glasses, be sure to wear them when reading the label! Safety glasses that are stained, foggy, scratched, or otherwise do not provide a tight fit, should be discarded.

Chapter 9 Page 32 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Masks and Respirators - The lungs and lining of the respiratory system readily absorb pesticide dusts, mists, and vapors. For this reason, many pesticide labels require the use of masks or even specialized respirators during application. Even if not required, it is always a good idea to use a simple mask when mixing, loading, or applying pesticides. There are many mask and respirator types available for purchase that are relatively inexpensive. Read the label and follow the directions exactly, when a respirator or mask is required. Otherwise, the choice is yours as to which type of protective device you would like to use. Again, when applying pesticides, make sure that children and pets are not nearby.

Avoiding Heat Stress Heat stress is the illness that occurs when the body builds up more heat than it can cope with. Wearing a lot of protective clothing can contribute to heat related illnesses, if care is not exercised. Severe heat stress, (heat stroke), can result in death. Signs and symptoms of heat stress include: 6 Fatigue, (exhaustion, muscle weakness); 6 Headache, nausea, and chills; 6 Dizziness and fainting; 6 Loss of coordination; 6 Severe thirst and dry mouth; or 6 Altered behavior, (confusion, slurred speech, quarrelsome or irrational attitude). Anyone showing signs or symptoms of heat stress should be treated immediately. Heat stress is not caused by exposure to pesticides, but may affect pesticide handlers who working in hot conditions. Many of these symptoms are also those of pesticide poisoning. If you notice any of these symptoms, call 911 immediately! Handling Pesticide Contaminated Clothing Even using pesticides regulated for general use, which are the kind of pesticides that homeowners can buy and use, can contaminate clothing, and should be handled with extra care. Most clothing readily absorbs pesticides and holds them close to the skin, which increases the risks of absorption into the blood stream. Be sure to select protective gear and clothing as is required by the product label.

Pesticides can pose a risk not only to the person applying the pesticide, but to the person who launders the contaminated clothing, and other family members, if the pesticide transfers to their clothing during the laundering process. That is why it is important to remove pesticide contaminated clothing promptly and place it in a plastic bag, or hang it outdoors where it can dry to remove any volatile substances from the pesticide. Always wear rubber gloves when handling pesticide contaminated clothing. Never mix pesticides contaminated clothing with your regular laundry and wash the contaminated clothing promptly.

Chapter 9 Page 33 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Before Application - Before applying the pesticide, carefully select your protective clothing and equipment. READ THE LABEL for the Directions for Use that apply to required protective clothing and contaminated clothing. Follow all directions to the letter! As a general rule, one hundred percent cotton clothing launders best. Other fabric types may not launder as well and contain a residue from the pesticide even after laundering. Remember that leather apparel, such as belts and watchbands, is nearly impossible to de-contaminate completely and must be thrown away after use. The same applies to the inside band of caps and some decorative items. Use the pesticide label as a guide for knowing which chemicals are more toxic, and may require more careful handling. Key Words on all pesticide labels identify the toxicity of the product. (See About the Labels.) Clothing contaminated with pesticides labeled DANGER or POISON are more highly toxic and must be handled most carefully as these pesticides are easily absorbed through the skin. If your clothing is contaminated with a pesticide labeled DANGER or POISON, dispose of the clothing by double wrapping it in plastic and following the directions on the label. Clothing contaminated with less toxic materials, (Key Words: WARNING or CAUTION), do not require such drastic measures. However, the toxicity of pesticide contaminated clothing that has been cleaned does not depend on the toxicity of the product, but the formulation of the product. Water soluble formulations are much more easily cleaned than other types of formulations. Follow the instructions on the label! Before Laundering – Always wear rubber gloves when handling contaminated clothing. Look at the clothing to see if can be properly cleaned. Discard any contaminated leather apparel, as the pesticide can not be completely removed from leather products. Discard any other apparel that has been soaked with the pesticide, or will be difficult to launder. Launder any pesticide contaminated clothing as quickly as possible after use. Launder the clothing daily. Any clothing worn while handling pesticides should be considered to be contaminated and laundered before reuse. Research shows that the pesticide contamination can be more easily removed if the fabric is laundered daily, rather than accumulated contamination. Always wear rubber gloves when handling pesticide contaminated clothing. Pre-rinse or Pre-soak – Always pre-rinse or pre-soak contaminated clothes. You can use a garbage bag lining a cardboard box as a suitable container, a plastic pail or tub, or you may use the washer, and soak the clothes for at least one hour before laundering in the wash cycle. Be sure that pets and children are not playing nearby to prevent accidents. If possible, keep clothing contaminated with the similar pesticides together so they can be pre-soaked together and then laundered together. Dispose of wash water into a sanitary sewer or septic system. Do not dump pre-soak water onto the ground.

Laundering – Wash a few contaminated clothes at a time, in a full tub of HOT water. Wash only a few garments at a time. The water temperature should be on the hottest setting, with the water setting at the highest level and wash for a full cycle with a double rinse. Use heavy-duty detergent for emulsified concentrate, (oil-based), formulations. Use dry detergent to clean dry formulations of pesticides. Use liquid detergent to clean liquid formulations of pesticides. More detergent is needed when garments have been treated

with a soil/water repellent finish such as Scotchguard®. Chapter 9 Page 34 What You Need to Know About Pesticides On clothing treated with a soil/water repellent, use a heavy duty liquid detergent The excess suds restrict agitation and decrease chemical removal. The repellent finish must be re-applied after laundering to give protection to the clothing. Take care when adding fabric softeners and bleach. Fabric softeners do not affect either pesticide absorption or residue removal. DO NOT USE BLEACH ON CLOTHING CONTAMINATED WITH AMMONIA FERTILIZER. Ammonia fertilizer reacts with bleach to form chlorine gas, which can be fatal.

Pesticide residue may linger on the garment if the clothing was soaked with the pesticide. Clothing contaminated with mildly toxic, water-soluble pesticides may usually be de-contaminated with one long wash/rinse cycle. Clothing contaminated with moderately toxic, or non water-soluble pesticides should be washed twice, on the longest cycles available. The picture on the right shows particle of the pesticide still present on the garment after washing.

Once the clothing is de-contaminated, immediately run the empty washer through another complete cycle, using the same detergent and same washer settings, to de-contaminate the washer. Do not wash other family clothing before de-contaminating the washer.

Drying and Storing De-contaminated Clothing – If at all possible, line dry the de-contaminated garments outside, where the fresh air and sunshine can break down any remaining particles of the pesticide. If a clothes line is not available, a line dryer, shown at right, may be used to dry the clothing. Dry the clothing outside, or in an area where you can limit the activities of children and pets. Do NOT place de-contaminated clothing in a clothes dryer, as it can not be de-contaminated. Store de-contaminated

clothing away from family clothing.

Cleaning Protective Equipment – De-contaminate protective equipment, such as rubber boots, gloves, safety glasses, and other plastic or rubber items by washing thoroughly in hot soapy water in a plastic bucket placed outdoors. Dispose of the wash water through a sanitary sewer or septic system – do NOT pour the wash water onto the ground. Rinse all items thoroughly and dispose of rinse water the same way. Designate the plastic bucket or tub “For Pesticide Decontamination Only”, and clearly label the items so that they are not used at a later date for any other purpose. Use the Right Application Equipment Pesticide application equipment varies from the simple paint brush or bulb duster to the hand-pumped, pressurized garden sprayer. Application equipment should:

6 Apply the pesticide uniformly on the treatment area; and

6 Apply the pesticide to target areas only. You must select the right application equipment for the job, the type of area to be treated, and the type of pesticide formulation to be used. Some types of equipment, such as small garden sprayers, also have to

Chapter 9 Page 35 What You Need to Know About Pesticides be calibrated accurately and properly maintained to ensure that they consistently apply the correct amount of pesticide.

Most pesticides come in a number of formulations, including ready- to-use mixtures that are packaged in containers that serve as the application equipment. If you do not have, or are not comfortable using, a particular type of applicator, then selecting another formulation or pesticide may be a good solution. Ready-to-use pesticides are pre-mixed and ready to use directly from the container. No further calibration or dilution of the pesticide is required.

These products come in a variety of formulations, such as baits, liquids, granules, or dusts, and are packaged in applicator containers such as ant traps, pressurized aerosol cans, trigger sprayers, or dust applicators. Purchase ready-to-use pesticides whenever possible. Many homeowners have small yards or gardens, or only need to spot treat an area, so they require small amounts of pesticides to treat a pest problem. By using ready-to-use pesticides, you can minimize the risks of mixing and storing pesticide products. Ready-to-use products may be the best choice if: 6 You have a pest problem that is likely to occur infrequently or that involves only a small area of the home or garden; 6 You are not familiar with the use or handling of concentrated pesticide to get the proper application concentration; 6 You do not have the right application equipment; or 6 You do not have a safe storage area for concentrated pesticides. Pesticide Application Equipment There are many different kinds of pesticide applicator equipment, each one offering advantages and disadvantages in their use. You must decide what type of applicator equipment is best for your use, based on the size of the area you are treating, the environment of the area you are treating, the type of pesticide formulation you wish to use, your skill, experience, and safety equipment you have on hand. Trigger Pump Sprayers These are small, hand-held containers that usually contain less that a gallon of ready-to-use pesticide. The pesticide is applied by pumping a small lever with the index finger while directing the nozzle at the area to be treated. These sprayers are used to treat small areas. Both products for indoor and outdoor use are packaged in this type of applicator. Careful application is necessary to apply the pesticide evenly and within the target area.

Chapter 9 Page 36 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Aerosol Cans Aerosol cans are the most convenient and often the most expensive way to purchase pesticides. Aerosol pressure cans contain pesticides that are driven through a fine opening by a carrier gas under pressure when the nozzle is triggered. These hand held devices generally hold less than a quart of a ready-to-use pesticide. They are useful for treating small areas both indoors and outdoors, but may be difficult to apply evenly and within the target area. Use these applicators only when there is little or no wind, to prevent drift.

Dust Applicators Dust applicators are used to apply fine particles of pesticide dusts onto the surface to be treated. Often the packaging containing the dust is also the dust applicator. Examples of this include plastic squeeze bottles or shaker cans. Dusters are most often used for the treatment of individual plants or small groups of plants, or to treat small areas. Specialized applicators, such as bulb dusters, or the applicator shown at right, are also available for products that do not come packaged in applicator

containers.

Impregnated Wax Bars Impregnated wax bars and pucks contain a selective herbicide which is used to control broadleaf weeds in home lawns. These products are either dragged across the lawn, in case of weed bars, or pressed against the weeds, (in the case of pucks) to rub off some of the

herbicide.

Some pucks are attached to a handle to make it easier to apply the wax. Both products are designed for use as a spot treatment for individual weeds, or small patches of weeds in lawns. The use of impregnated wax bars reduces the potential for drift from conventional spray equipment, as well as pesticide damage to non-target areas and the environment. Bait Stations Poisonous baits must be protected from tampering by children, pets, and non-target wildlife. If poisonous baits, (such as Rodenticides, but also some insecticides or other pesticides), are used in the home or garden, they should be placed inside a tamper-proof bait station and secured to keep children, pets, and wildlife from coming in contact with the bait. Metaldehyde slug baits can also be very attractive to wildlife and pets and should be placed inside bait stations. If you use pesticide bait, you should

ALWAYS use a tamper-proof bait station Chapter 9 Page 37 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Granule Spreader Granular application equipment is designed to be used outdoors to apply coarse, dry particles that are uniform in size. Most of the time, the granules are applied to soil, but, in some cases, to the foliage of plants. There are two main types of spreaders, rotary spreaders and drop spreaders, which are shown at right. Rotary spreaders fling granules from a spinning disc that is located under the hopper. Drop spreaders drop the granules straight down from slits in the bottom of the hopper. Both of these types of applicators can be used for the application of granular fertilizers or pesticides.

Remember to be very careful when selecting a granular pesticide, so that birds do not mistake the material for seeds, or so that birds are unaffected by the pesticide applied.

Hose End Sprayers Hose end sprayers are designed to connect to a garden hose and allow the user to apply fertilizer or pesticide, using the water pressure from a household water supply. A typical hose end sprayer consists of a canister with a nozzle attached to the lid and a hose fitting for attaching the sprayer to a garden hose. The container is filled with a liquid pesticide concentrate, or a solid pesticide/fertilizer concentrate and attached to the end of the hose.

When the hose is turned on, the water mixes with the pesticide concentrate and produces a diluted spray. These sprayers are used for treating large outdoor areas such as lawns and ornamental plantings. The main disadvantage of the system is that any changes in water pressure or clogging of the nozzle can affect the dilution rate of the pesticide. This can make it difficult to consistently apply the correct rate of pesticide to the area being treated. Hose end sprayers that are designed for applying fertilizer are not suitable for applying pesticides. If using a pesticide product that is to be applied with a hose end sprayer, customers should purchase a hose end sprayer specifically designed for pesticide application. Ensure the hose end applicator is equipped with an anti-siphoning device, which is usually marked on the package.

Chapter 9 Page 38 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Hand Operated Sprayers Hand operated sprayers are most commonly used to control pest problems in larger gardens or orchards. Small hand held sprayers may work by using compressed air to disperse the liquid pesticide, or have a hand pump spray. These sprayers may be available for single use, or, in the case of the larger sprayers that usually hold 1 to 3 gallons, for repeated use. The sprayer selected for use depends on the size of the area to be treated, the pest being treated,

and the recommended method of pesticide application. Homeowners must be careful to properly mix any concentrated pesticides according to the label instructions. In the case of hand held pump sprayers and small hand held sprayers, you should label the sprayer with a permanent marker, Pesticide Use Only. Clean the sprayer thoroughly after using the pesticide, to prevent cross-contamination of pesticide products. In many cases, when using a small hand held pump sprayer, which are much less expensive than larger sprayers, you should label the sprayer with permanent marker, and note the type of pesticide used. For example, label the sprayer with the words, Herbicide Use Only.

Pesticide Concentrates Many types of pesticides are sold as concentrates, to reduce bulk storage. These products must be diluted with water and properly mixed before they are applied. The pesticide label provides the recommended mixing instructions. It is essential that the homeowner follows the dilution rates listed on the label and measure carefully to ensure their application has the desired effect. You may be tempted to apply more pesticide or mix up a stronger solution for a ‘really serious problem’. Don’t! This will not give better or faster control and result in damage to the plant or its neighbors, or unacceptable residue levels in the case of edible plants. It may also damage the environment! Before you purchase a pesticide concentrate, know exactly how large an area will be treated. Buy only the amount of pesticide needed, and, if there are any leftovers, share with a neighbor before disposing of the pesticide. If you must dispose of the pesticide, do so only in accordance with the labels instructions. As a general guide, the following illustrations may help you with calculating the exact square footage, (A = Area) of an area to be treated.

Chapter 9 Page 39 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Table 4 – Formulas for Area Calculations

a Rectangle a Square A = a X b A = a X b b b

General Triangle a a Equilateral Triangle b c h h = Height A = .433 X a X a a a A = (a X h) / 2

a Parallelogram, (all sides e Trapezoid f equal) c d h A = {(a + b) / 2} X h A = (e X f) / 2 b

Circle Ellipse r r = Radius b A = π X a X b A = π r2 A = 3.1416 X a X b A = 3.1416 X r X r a

Mixing Pesticides Pesticides should be measured and mixed outdoors. An inexpensive set of kitchen-type measuring tools should be reserved, and clearly marked, for pesticide use only. The tools should NEVER be returned to the kitchen where they may accidentally be used in food preparation. Many pesticides provide the necessary measuring equipment with the product when you purchase the product. The directions for many pesticide concentrates are often in English units. However, in some cases, scientific or metric measurements are used in the directions. Don’t just guess. Stop and calculate exactly how much of the pesticide to use. Two conversion factors may be useful, depending on what the label reads: 1 teaspoon = 5 milliliters 1 tablespoon = 15 milliliters Other conversion charts are available in Appendix I of this chapter.

Chapter 9 Page 40 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Before you begin 1. Know the size of the area to be treated and how much pesticide is needed for the job; 2. Keep children, pets, food, and dishes away from the area where you are mixing; 3. Use measuring cups and other tools that have been designated exclusively for pesticide use; 4. Check to make sure your equipment is in good working order, and that hoses and connections do not leak, before mixing the pesticide, by using clean water in equipment that was cleaned after the last use; 5. Make sure that your pesticide equipment is calibrated, (more about calibration later); 6. Make sure you have soap, towels, and other supplies available, in case of a spill; and 7. While mixing pesticides, keep the applicator tool, (sprayer, etc.), in a plastic tub to prevent any spills. Mix the pesticide safely Concentrated pesticides must be evenly mixed with water in the correct proportion before application. Poor control or plant damage may result if the pesticide is not mixed completely with the water or is allowed to settle in the spray tank. To ensure that the pesticide is properly mixed with the water: 1. Add half of the required water to the sprayer; 2. Measure the correct amount of pesticide concentrate, and add it to the sprayer; 3. Top up the pesticide/water mix with the remaining amount of water; and 4. Close the tank and shake it well to completely mix the pesticide and water. Other safety tips:

5. Use the same safety equipment recommended for pesticide application. 6. Remember that the pesticide concentrates are more toxic than the diluted spray, so wearing a respirator or mask, goggles, and rubber gloves may also be advised. 7. Stand so that you are mixing the pesticide away from your body, to prevent spills onto

your clothing.

8. After handling pesticides, always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Change clothes after mixing, (if you are not applying the pesticide that day), and treat the clothes as you would any protective clothing used to apply the pesticide.

Chapter 9 Page 41 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Additional Safety Tips for Application Remember these additional safety tips about applying pesticides safely: 9. Read the label carefully to make sure you have correctly mixed the right amount of the pesticide according to the directions; 10. Inform children and neighbors about pesticide application plans;

11. Have a sign ready to place out of doors, warning others about the pesticide application, if anyone can be exposed to the pesticide after contamination; 12. Wear any protective clothing recommended by the pesticide manufacturer; 13. Apply the pesticide as close to the specific pest as possible; 14. If you become contaminated, change clothes and take a

shower right away; and

15. Make sure you apply the pesticide in low wind. You can check the wind by tying a light scarf to a tree and checking the movement with the wind. After the Pesticide Application 1. Immediately after use, clean your equipment thoroughly. 2. Clean equipment according to directions on the label, OR, if the pesticide used is water soluble, rinse out the container with three volumes of water. 3. If you used a sprayer, rinse out the equipment three times, and then spray one full volume of the container with clean water. Spray onto cardboard, place the soaked cardboard in a sealed, plastic garbage bag, and dispose of the pesticide at a Home Hazardous Waste Disposal, or in the trash if one is not available.

4. Remove clothing and treat as recommended in the Laundering guide. 5. If clothes have been contaminated with pesticide concentrate, throw them away in sealed plastic bags. 6. Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water, and take a shower, using soap and shampoo. More information about the proper disposal of used pesticide containers and equipment will be discussed further. Calibrating Pesticide Equipment The label on most pesticide concentrates for use in the home or garden gives the application rate in the form of a dilution ratio. For example, “Mix 1 oz. of Easy Pest-B-Gone per gallon of water”, or “Mix 10 ml of Pest-B-Gone per liter of water”. Others give the application rate as an amount per unit area. For

Chapter 9 Page 42 What You Need to Know About Pesticides example, this would read, “Apply 1 pound per 100 square feet”, or “Apply 200 grams, (g), per 100 square meters, (m2)”. To determine exactly how much to pesticide to put into a sprayer, and how much an area that should be applied, the homeowner must calibrate their applicator equipment, and their own application method.

Calibration is a procedure for checking and Applying the correct amount of pesticide is adjusting the delivery rate of application VERY important. Apply too much, and you can equipment. Properly calibrated equipment will cause harm to humans, other organisms, or deliver the correct amount of the pesticide to the the environment. Apply too little, and you will treatment area in a uniform distribution. likely have poor control of the pest problem, Calibration is easy to do, and can save you a LOT of and may even build a pesticide resistance in trouble in the long run! Be sure to calibrate, the pest population, with repeated BEFORE you apply the pesticide! Practice using the applications. applicator, if you have re-usable equipment, prior to application.

Calibrating a hand-operated sprayer

The easiest way to calibrate a hand-operated sprayer: 1. READ THE LABEL to determine the application rate; 2. Fill the tank with a known volume of clean water; 3. Walk at a steady speed, spraying the water to uniformly cover the area, according to the label’s instructions; and

4. Measure the area covered.

Once you know the rate of application of the sprayer you are using, you can easily calculate how much pesticide you will need. For example, the directions on the label direct you to mix 2 ounce, (oz), of concentrated pesticide per gallon, (gal), of water, and apply it to cover an area of 150 square feet, (ft2). Your 2 gallon capacity sprayer has sprayed one quart of water, (1/4 gallon), and it has covered an area that is 50 square feet, (ft2), while you were slowly walking. Make sure you are using measurement units with which you feel comfortable—Metric or English, and calculate the amount of pesticide needed to cover the area. The area you need to cover is 50 feet X 12 feet. Follow the calculations below: Step 1 50 ft2 was treated with one quart. How much liquid pesticide mix is needed to spray 150 ft2? 150 ft2 / 50 ft2 = 3 quarts. How does this compare to the required application rate of 1 gallon per 150 feet? Since 1 gallon is equal to 4 quarts, you applied one quart less than required. Try your calibration again, after opening the nozzle. If you can’t increase the spray amount, slow your steps. This time, you have applied 1 quart on almost 40 ft2 of test area, which is the correct application rate. Now, while the water is drying, calculate the amounts of liquid to apply to the area you wish to cover. Step 2 Area to be treated: 50 ft. X 12 ft = 600 ft2 Area that 2 gallons of pesticide will cover: 2 gal = 150 ft2 X 2 = 300 ft2

Chapter 9 Page 43 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Required Amount to treat area: 300 ft2 X 2 = 600 ft2 = 4 gal of mixed pesticide. Amount of Pesticide needed: 2 oz pesticide per 1 gal water

2 oz. X 4 gal = 8 oz. pesticide, total

2 oz per 2 gallon sprayer = 4 oz pesticide The next question is: did you spray evenly? Now is the time to practice, BEFORE you spray a pesticide product. What you need: 6 A large piece of cardboard, poster board, or you may use a chalked out square on your driveway. 6 Clean water in the sprayer.

Fill the sprayer with clean water and practice spraying the cardboard, poster board, or your driveway evenly. Make sure there is little wind to reduce drift. Since you are applying clean water, (instead of pesticide), you can practice on any surface that will allow you to gauge the evenness of pesticide you will be spraying. Aim for the more even spray of the left hand view, rather than the over-applied and uneven right hand view. Was there much drift?

Important note! The pesticide label will often give specific information on how to apply the pesticide. The following are examples of common label terms: 1. “Spray to wet surface” or “Spray thoroughly to cover” – Apply enough pesticide to just wet the area being treated, but not enough to cause dripping or puddling. 2. “Spray to run-off” or “Spray to drip” – Apply the pesticide until it just begins to drip off the edge of the surface treated. Calibrating granular or dust applicators Granular or dust formulations of pesticides do not require mixing and often come in convenient ready- to-use packages. Rates for granular or dust formulations are expressed in different ways. For a granular or dust formulation, the label may recommend a pesticide rate based on the given area. For example, a label may recommend using 5 pounds, (lbs), per 100 square feet, (ft2). To determine the amount of pesticide that will be required: 1. Calculate the area to be treated, as explained above. 2. Carefully calculate the amount of pesticide needed for this area, as follows: Area to be treated, (ft2), divided by coverage:

Chapter 9 Page 44 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 600 ft2 / 100 ft2 = factor of 6 Pounds needed per coverage area X factor: 5 lbs X 6 = 30 lbs. 3. Apply the calculated amount of pesticide evenly over the area. If using a ready-to-use dust, it will not be possible to calibrate the applicator. Read the label, and follow all instructions exactly.

The hand applicator for dust formulations may have instructions for calibration from the manufacturer. Follow these instructions carefully to prevent over application of the pesticide. The bulb applicator at right is much more difficult to calibrate. READ the LABEL, and follow all instructions exactly. Important note! If the label states

“lightly cover” or “apply a light dusting” then apply the dust in a very fine layer, so that a dusty effect is just barely visible. Dusts should NOT be thick enough to obscure the surface being treated!

There are many types of granular spreaders available for purchase, many of which have been “pre-calibrated” by the manufacturer before leaving the factory. Usually, the granular spreader consists of a hopper or container that holds the pesticide source, and either a crank distributor, or a distributor that evenly spreads the pesticide over the ground. You should still calculate the spreader, even in the manufacturer has allowed for different rates of distribution.

Calibration isn’t as hard as it sounds. 1. First, attach a plastic bag to the spreader, or put out a large plastic drop cloth on the ground to catch the granules. The plastic should be twice as wide as the spreader and at least 2 yards long. Mark the plastic drop cloth with a 2 yard long line-- the longer the plastic, the more accurate your calibration. 2. Put a small amount of pesticide in the spreader. 3. Next, determine the correct adjustment for the spreader and the correct walking speed. Keeping the spreader closed, start walking approximately 3 yards in front of the drop cloth. When reaching the sheet, and without changing pace, open the spreader so that the pesticide drops onto the sheet. Close the spreader after walking about 2 yards.

Chapter 9 Page 45 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 4. Carefully gather up the plastic sheet, and hold it to pour the pesticide into a plastic or paper cup that can be thrown away. Using a general kitchen scale, weigh the amount of pesticide. Put the pesticide back into the spreader. Put the paper or plastic cup in a sealed plastic bag and throw away. 5. Measure the width of the spreader, convert that into decimal feet, and calculate the area that was covered. (A conversion chart is available in Appendix I.) If your spreader is 26” wide, that equals 2.17’. The 2 yards that was covered is equal to 6’. Therefore, 2.17’ X 6’ = 13.02 ft2, which can be rounded to 13 ft2.

6. Determine the amount applied on the area, in this example it is 13 ft2. For example, if you spread 6 ounces on 13 ft2: 6 ounces, (oz) / 16 ounces, (ounces in 1 lb) = .38 lbs. (.38 lbs X 100 ft2) / 13 ft2 = 2.92 lbs/100 ft2 Check the label, did you apply enough pesticide?

7. If you did not spread enough pesticide, adjust the spreader, and try to walk more slowly. Repeat the calibration until you spread the amount required. To determine the amount required to cover the area you have measured, based on the required application rate of 5 lbs per 100 ft2, you can use this formula: (5 lbs X 13 ft2) / 100 ft2 = .65 lbs should be spread on the 13 ft2 area. 8. Repeat until you know your spreader setting, and your walking speed, to make sure you apply the correct amount of pesticide to the property. 9. If the spreader can not be adjusted, and your walking pace can not be adjusted to accommodate distributing the required amount, purchase a new spreader, or hire a professional. Calibrating hose end sprayers

Hose-end sprayers are not recommended for the application of pesticides because most do not give an accurate dosage, and few can be used to apply wettable powders. If a hose-end sprayer is your only option, however, there are steps you can take to improve its effectiveness. 1. Before connecting the hose-end spreader, be sure it is in good working order and the siphoning tube, nozzle, and filter screens are clean. 2. Before using the pesticide, practice with clean water to make sure you applying the pesticide evenly and in the correct amounts.

3. Open the tap fully while spraying with a hose-end sprayer. 4. Avoid running the water from other taps on the premises to help maintain a more constant water pressure. 5. After use, flush both the sprayer and the garden hose with clean water.

Chapter 9 Page 46 What You Need to Know About Pesticides If an instruction sheet on calibration was included with your hose-end sprayer, use those instructions. Otherwise follow these steps:

1. Mark off a 10 ft X 10 ft area, using pegs and string. 2. Connect the garden hose to the water tap and hose end sprayer. 3. Adjust the sprayer nozzle to the desired setting, (narrow stream, fan shaped, or mist).

4. Fill the sprayer bottle with water. Food coloring can be used to make it easier to see the amount of water in the bottle. 5. Walk back and forth over the marked area, spraying until the area is covered. Remember the pace of walking and do it at the same rate thereafter. 6. Turn off the water tap and read the amount of liquid left in the sprayer. The difference between this reading and the full mark is the amount of colored water “pesticide” used. 7. If the pesticide label indicated to use 2 ounces, (oz), per 100 ft2, and 1 oz was used, adjust the application rate accordingly by walking slower. If more than the recommended amount was applied, walk faster. 8. After you have calibrated your walking speed, empty the colored water from the sprayer, and refill it with the required amount of pesticide and water to treat the infested area. 9. Thoroughly rinse the sprayer and garden hose with water before storing it.

Storing Pesticides Safely Nearly three-fourths of all pesticide accidents involve nonusers of the materials. Many of these involve children. In addition, each year there are several cases of livestock, wildlife, and pet poisonings from contact with improperly stored pesticides. These accidents not only cause human suffering and economic losses, but improper storage is contrary to federal regulations. READ THE LABEL: IT IS THE LAW. There are basic safe storage rules to follow:

1. Always store pesticides in their original containers, with the label intact. This is a legal requirement for safety reasons. 2. Store pesticides in a safe place, preferably in a locked cabinet. Keep pesticides out of reach of children and pets. 3. Take particular care to store slug pellets, Rodenticides, ant poisons, and other poison baits out of the reach of pets. 4. If you store it carefully, some pesticides will remain effective for years. Read the label to use by the recommended date.

5. Never store diluted pesticides. It is illegal to store pesticides that are unlabeled and not in their original container for safety reasons. Remember to mix only enough pesticide for that day’s use. 6. Don’t stockpile. Buy only enough pesticide to carry you through the season, or for one use.

Chapter 9 Page 47 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 7. Investigate solutions to your pest problems that call for less, or no, pesticide use. 8. You may wish to consider ready-to-use pesticide products rather than concentrated pesticides. While they may be more expensive to use, they eliminate the storage and disposal problems.

9. Store flammable pesticides outside your living area and away from ignition sources such as a furnace, vehicle, outdoor grill, or gas-powered tools. 10. Post a label on the area that warns of Pesticide Storage. 11. Store pesticides in an area with an impermeable floor, such as concrete.

12. Never store pesticides in an area that may become flooded, or near a drain.

13. Never store pesticides near food, feed, seed, fertilizers, or medications. 14. The storage area should be reasonably fireproof and well-ventilated. Temperatures should be kept between freezing and 100o F, unless the label instructs otherwise. 15. NEVER transfer pesticides to soft drink bottles or other containers meant for food. Children or others may mistake them for something to eat or drink.

16. Sealed concrete floors, concrete block wall construction, and metal shelves are recommended over wooden structures. 17. With shelf storage, store dry pesticide or fertilizer products on the upper shelves, and the liquid products on the lower shelves. Do not store liquid and dry pesticides together. 18. Provide adequate space for the storage of empty pesticide

containers until they can be disposed of properly.

19. Keep your home spill kit near the storage area, to be prepared for an accidental spill. 20. You can place pesticide bottles or packages in trays, cake pans, for secondary containment or small dikes. 21. If your floor drains are not sealed, store pesticide materials individually as discussed above, or inside a dike area. A home-made dike area can be constructed of concrete blocks and heavy duty plastic. (Or you may use a child’s molded plastic swimming pool.) Place the storage cabinet or shelving unit inside the dike to catch any spills.

22. Remember, a properly maintained pesticide storage site can help assuring the smooth transfer of your property during sales. 23. If you notice that the pesticide label is becoming unreadable, you may use transparent tape to keep it legible. If you can’t tell how old the container is, or identify its contents, follow

the directions on safe disposal discussed later.

Chapter 9 Page 48 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 24. When you purchase a pesticide, write the date of purchase on the container in indelible ink to keep track of when the pesticide should be used and disposed of. 25. Keep different types of pesticides together. For example, keep all insecticides together and apart from the herbicides. Store liquid chemicals separately from dry chemicals. 26. Do not store chemicals in sunlight. Sunlight and heat will shorten the life span of the chemicals. 27. Steel shelves offer the strongest, most effective storage system. The shelf edge should have a lip to catch minor leaks and spills. Painting wooden shelves prevents leaks and spills from being absorbed into the wood. See the Pesticide Storage Checklist in Appendix I for more information. Pesticide Fires – Prevention, Control, and Cleanup Fires involving pesticides can be very dangerous. Burning pesticides may release toxic fumes that are poisonous to fire fighters, bystanders, and animals, OR the fumes may contaminate the environment. Pressurized containers can explode. Pesticides can spill out of containers damaged by the fire. Runoff from fighting a fire can contaminate a larger area. Reduce the potential for fires by following good practices.

1. Store pesticides safely to reduce the risk of fire: 2. Keep pesticides away from windows and out of direct sunlight. 3. Store them in a cool, dry environment. 4. Keep combustible materials away from heat sources, (steam pipes, radiators, heaters, gas flames, etc.).

5. Be aware of explosive or flammable risks associated with the pesticides you store. READ THE LABEL for information on toxicity, flammability, or other hazard warnings. Follow the instructions exactly. For example, glyphosate can create an explosive hazard if it is stored in a galvanized steel, or unlined steel (not stainless steel) container/sprayer. 6. Do not store pesticides near fire hazards such as fertilizer, ammonia, or other products. Do not store near any flammable compounds or materials. 7. DO NOT ALLOW SMOKING near pesticides, either when in use, or when stored. Accidents can happen, even when taking precautions. Therefore, be prepared in case there is a fire involving pesticides and minimize the health, economic, and environmental risks that result from fires.

Be prepared for a fire: Develop a fire contingency plan for your home. The plan should include: 1. Location of emergency equipment, access points/routes, and evacuation routes. 2. Direction and location of runoff water.

Chapter 9 Page 49 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 3. Location of critical or sensitive areas around your home, such as the paint, pesticide, or other chemical storage areas, wells, water courses, drains, low spots, pet cages or sleeping areas, children’s bedrooms, etc. 4. Location of chemical fire extinguishers, such as shown at the right. There should be at least one chemical fire extinguisher at all storage locations within your home. 5. Share this plan with your family; so that everyone knows how to evacuate the home, how to get children and pets to safety, and where fire safety equipment is located. Hold regular fire drills!

Other safety tips include: 1. Store all pesticides in one designated storage room or area. Label the area with a sign, “DANGER”, and keep it locked, to prevent access by children or pets. 2. Post emergency phone numbers by each phone in the house. Write numbers large enough so that they are easy to read. Include phone numbers for Fire, (911), Poison Control, and other Emergency Contacts. 3. If you are storing pesticides, even in small amounts, keep a list of the pesticides stored. A blank pesticide storage list is available in Appendix I. Keep a copy of the list with the contingency plan, near the pesticide storage area, and keep copies in several places in your house. Update the list every time you add a pesticide to storage. 4. Keep a spill kit, (more information later), near the storage area. 5. Regularly review emergency procedures for poisoning, spills, and fires. Home Spill Kits Every home should have a spill kit to safely control, contain, and cleanup spills of hazardous materials. A spill kit is not an expensive project, and it can save your life. Keep the spill kit near the pesticide storage area, and have more than one kit, if other hazardous materials are stored in another area. A typical spill kit should contain the following items: 1. Personal protective equipment, such as unlined rubber gloves, safety glasses, (use safety glasses purchased from a hardware store, that will fit over your regular eyewear), a respirator to prevent fume inhalation, (if the stored pesticide requires it as safety equipment), or a mask, and rubber boots. If rubber boots are not available, you can use heavy duty plastic bags, and duct tape to secure the bags to your legs; 2. Dry absorbent materials such as sawdust, vermiculite, kitty litter, commercial absorbent, newspapers, or paper towels; 3. Broom and scoop shovel to pick up the contaminated material; and

Chapter 9 Page 50 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 4. A container with a lid, such as a large pail, or heavy duty garbage bag to put the contaminated waste in. This container can also be used to store the spill kit. You may also wish to include other items in your spill kit:

1. Depending on the potential size of the spill, you may wish to purchase, or make, containment barriers. These resemble plastic or rubber sausages, which are filled with an inert material, and may be ordered on line or from your local hardware store. 2. A chemical suit may also be purchased at your local hardware store. 3. From the directions on the label, a neutralizing material, such as baking soda, chemical fire extinguisher, or other product to de-contaminate the area.

Information on how to deal with a pesticide spill may be found in the emergency section of the guide.

Disposing of Pesticides Safely The best way to dispose of pesticides is by following the application directions on the label. If you can’t use the product up, you may have a neighbor or a relative that can use it. If that isn’t possible, and a household hazardous waste collection program isn’t available, often the only other alternative is to dispose of the household pesticide in the trash. This is the least-preferred disposal option, but it may be the only option in some areas.

If a Hazardous Materials Disposal plan is not available in your area: 1. Dry pesticides should be double bagged, with each bag sealed shut, and then placed in the trash with a tightly closed lid. Be sure to label the bag, PESTICIDES, to protect waste disposal personnel. 2. No more than 5 pounds of dry pesticide should be disposed of at a time. 3. Liquid pesticides are the only liquid wastes that are allowed to be placed in the trash, because it is more dangerous to the chemically sensitive to dilute or stabilize the waste. Small containers, (less than one gallon of liquid), should be wrapped in several layers of newspapers, and placed in a double, strong, plastic bag and sealed twice.

4. No more than 1 gallon of liquid pesticides should be disposed of at a time. Never mix pesticide types or formulations in the same trash! 5. Keep pets away from garbage to prevent accidental poisoning. Make sure your trash can has a lid that can be tightly closed!

Chapter 9 Page 51 What You Need to Know About Pesticides READ THE LABEL FIRST to determine the best method of pesticide disposal for the product you have purchased. 1. Do not pour leftover pesticides down the sink, into the toilet, or down a sewer or street drain. Pesticides may interfere with the operation of wastewater treatment plants, or pollute waterways. Many municipal systems are not equipped to remove all pesticide residues. If pesticides reach waterways, they may harm fish, plants, and other living things. 2. Wear the same protective clothing and gear as you would if you were applying the pesticide. 3. State and local laws may be stricter than federal laws, so be sure to contact your local Health Department, Solid Waste Disposal Company, or your Cooperative Extension agent to learn of any special laws pertaining to pesticide disposal.

4. Looking for pesticide disposal options? Go to Earth911 for a listing of Hazardous Materials Disposal Options for homeowners in your area: Earth911.com 5. Many communities have programs to recycle household hazardous waste such as empty bottles and cans. Do NOT recycle any pesticide container unless the recycler specifically accepts pesticide containers for recycling. Follow the programs instructions exactly for preparing the empty containers for collection.

6. An empty pesticide container can be as hazardous as a full one because of residues left inside. NEVER reuse a pesticide container. When empty, replace the cap or closure securely and place a piece of tape over the opening. Mark the container, FOR DISPOSAL ONLY, and dispose of it in a household hazardous materials site, or in the trash as described above. 7. Empty pesticide containers that have held Ready-to-use products, (such as trigger sprayers), can be disposed of directly in your household waste.

Keeping a Record In addition to using the right pesticide safely, storing and disposal, keeping records of pesticide use can be an effective management tool to plan future pesticide use. Record the following information to keep informed as to: 6 What the pest to be controlled was; 6 Month, day, and year of the application; 6 Product used, (brand name and product name); 6 EPA registration number; 6 Location of the site treated, and the total area treated; 6 Total amount of the pesticide applied; and 6 Results of the application.

Chapter 9 Page 52 What You Need to Know About Pesticides An example of a Record Keeping Form is located within Appendix I of this chapter. Use this as a guide to maintain accurate records of all pesticide activities. 1. Keep records of pesticide application near the pesticide inventory that is maintained near your storage area. 2. Make sure to keep records of all pesticides applied, even those that are applied by professionals. 3. When using a professional, request a copy of the Material Safety Data Sheet, and information about the potential health effects of the pesticide product that is being used in your home. 4. When hiring a professional, make sure they are a licensed, or certified applicator within your state. 5. Make a note of any changes in weather, equipment failures, or other extenuating circumstances that may affect the application process. 6. Keeping track of the results of the application will help you to plan your future pesticide use more effectively.

Avoiding Harm to Wildlife and the Environment Benefits of Pesticide Use For decades, discussions among scientists and the public have focused on the read, predicted, and perceived risks that pesticides pose to people and the environment. While any pesticide poses some level of risk, it is important to have a realistic understanding of the risks associated with pesticide use. By understanding the benefits, as well as the risks, we can place the risks of the pesticides we use in perspective.

1. In many circumstances, pesticides are the only effective means of controlling disease organisms, weeds, or insect pests; 2. Consumers receive direct benefits from pesticides through wider selections and lower prices for food and clothing; 3. Pesticides protect private, public, and commercial dwellings from structural damage associated with termite infestations; 4. Pesticides contribute to better human health by Mosquitoes carry many types of disease that can seriously harm or kill humans. preventing disease outbreaks through the control of rodents and insects;

5. Pesticides are used to sanitize our drinking and recreational water; 6. Pesticides are used to disinfect indoor areas, such as kitchens, operating rooms, and nursing homes; and 7. The pesticide industry also provides benefits to society through jobs and contribution to the tax base.

Chapter 9 Page 53 What You Need to Know About Pesticides There are also significant risks associated with leaving certain pests uncontrolled, and, in some cases, pesticides are the only viable alternative. Properly used, pesticides provide benefits essential to our way of life. Uncontrolled pests can cause serious consequences. For example:

1. A person bitten by mosquitoes can contract West Nile virus, malaria, yellow fever, and a host of other illnesses; 2. A person or child stung by bees, wasps, or ants may suffer a severe allergic reaction, and, in some cases, die; 3. A dog infested with fleas may become stressed to the point of illness and subsequent death; Fleas on household pets can 4. Diseased vegetables and fruits are not suitable for consumption; and be difficult to control, infesting the pet, the 5. Homeowners spend thousands each year on structural repair due to carpet, and other items in termites. the home.

Most people would acknowledge that the benefits of pesticides in today’s society often outweigh the risks associated with their use, especially when the risks are identified and kept under control. The risks are monitored by the US EPA through rigorous testing. In the US, for a pesticide to receive EPA approval, the active ingredient will undergo approximately 140 various environmental, ecological, and toxicological studies. All EPA-approved pesticides must bear a label telling the consumer how to use the product correctly, legally, and safely. Many of the benefits of pesticide use go un-noticed by the public. For example, if left unchecked, trees and brush growing beneath power lines would cause power outages. Herbicides used by utility companies to prevent undergrowth eliminate the problem and provides unobstructed access for maintenance and repairs. Herbicides used along roadways prevent many accidents due to poor visibility, and allow water to escape the road area more efficiently. Herbicides are also used to fight invasive weeds in parks, wetlands, and other natural areas. Pesticides are used around our homes and businesses in ways we often take for granted. Plastics, paints, and caulks may contain fungicides to prevent mold. Raw commodities and packaged grocery store items often contain controlled small amounts of pesticides to prevent molds, fungi, or insect infestations. There is little doubt that the proper use of pesticides improves our quality of life, protects our property, and promotes a better environment.

In many cases, the benefits of pesticide use are obvious. Using carefully timed applications, farmers have nearly eradicated the cotton boll weevil in large areas of the US. Worldwide, herbicides have provided a 10 to 20% increase in the production of bread grains. In the poorest countries, 95% of the population produces food to feed itself and the other 5% of the population. However, in developed countries, the reverse is true. As a rule, 3% to 5% of the population produces enough food to feed the rest of the population and export surplus food. This incredible efficiency would not be possible without herbicides.

Chapter 9 Page 54 What You Need to Know About Pesticides The value of pesticides goes beyond agriculture. Many tick and insect-borne diseases, such as yellow fever, encephalitis, plague, typhoid fever, malaria, and dog heartworms, are held in check by pesticides. By controlling fleas, cockroaches, and flies, insecticides improve the sanitation and comfort of our homes. Long-lasting soil pesticides protect millions of homes from termite damage. Sometimes, pesticides can restore the balance to the ecosystem lost to invasive species. For example, the sea lamprey, a parasitic eel, invaded the Great Lakes after a shipping canal around the Niagara Falls was built in 1829. The eels attacked native fish, until, by the 1950s, populations of lake trout were decimated. The pesticide TFM was used to control the lamprey, and today the lake trout populations are recovering. The federal government regulates pesticides, enforcing strict requirements for testing, registration, and approval for use. The pesticides available for purchase by the average homeowner have been thoroughly tested, and are sold in amounts that are designated as safe for the user and the environment, as long as the pesticide is applied properly, recommended safety and application gear is used, and the required amount of the pesticide is applied.

One very significant benefit of pesticide use is the preservation of wildlife habitat. Pesticides help to maximize the production of crops for farmers, ensuring that more habitats are left for wildlife and nature enthusiasts to enjoy. This helps to protect biodiversity. Over the past two decades, the use of pesticides has made no-till farming a viable option by providing pest controls. No- till farming is a good way to reduce soil erosion because the previous crop holds the soil in place during wind and rain. It also impedes runoff of storm water and the chemicals it may contain.

Pesticides also help to control exotic and invasive species, which helps to preserve our native heritage. Since these species seldom bring along their usual predators and diseases, their aggression toward native species goes unchecked. Some pesticides can be used to keep bees alive. Professional beekeepers report that hanging strips of cloth with a miticide can kill an infestation of Varoa mites that live as parasites on bees, which can kill them. As bees enter and exit the hive, they pass through vapor from the strips, which kill the mites without harming the bees. Pesticides can also be used to control termites, carpenter ants, and other structural insects. Museum directors use certain pesticides to protect irreplaceable and valuable collections from insect feeding; exhibits that contain cloth, plant, leather, and animal specimens are particularly vulnerable. Sometimes, pesticides are the best answer to protect the homeowner’s investment. Herbicides sprayed in drainage- ways helps to eliminate trees and shrubs, keeping ditchwater flowing. This prevents flooding or stagnant water, a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Chapter 9 Page 55 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Pesticides also help to maintain recreational areas. Golf courses and parks are more attractive due to the use of fungicides to combat turf diseases, insecticides control destructive insects, and herbicides control aggressive weeds. Herbicides are often used on athletic fields to promote healthy turf, which has been shown to reduce sports injuries. Nuisance insects and noxious plants would dominate many of our parks and playgrounds if pesticides weren’t used to control them. Even fish populations are enhanced by the use of herbicides specially formulated for use in and near aquatic habitats. By eliminating a portion of weeds that serve as a cover for small fish, more are consumed as prey, thus maintaining a healthy fish population. Even small fish ponds owned by Pesticides can remove pond the homeowner can benefit from the use of pesticides formulated for scum, which helps to maintain a aquatic habitats, preventing insect infestation and a healthy environment healthy pond. for decorative fish.

The discussion of benefits of pesticides would be incomplete if non-chemical controls were not considered. The use of non-chemical methods can prevent infestations from occurring. Often less expensive, they may also be easier to use, or more convenient to use. However, sometimes non-chemical controls do not work, or the pests adapt to the non-chemical control. In these cases, a combination of methods is needed to achieve satisfactory pest control. Pesticides are a powerful tool, but they should be considered as only one in a box of tools available for pest control. That is the philosophy of Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), to control pests in a variety of environmental settings. IMP involves combining appropriate pest control tactics into a single plan to reduce the amount of pests and their damage to an acceptable level. Using an IPM program is discussed further in Chapter 10. Some Detrimental Effects of Pesticide Use Overuse of pesticides can have an unintended effect on the environment. Over 98% of sprayed insecticides and 95% of herbicides effect non-targeted species, as well as the air, surface water and groundwater, soils, sediments, and food. Pesticide contaminate land and water when it escapes from storage sites, runs off of lawns and gardens, is over-applied, applied onto non-target areas, when it is discarded, when it is sprayed aerially at a higher than required level, or used when non-aquatic pesticides are used in or near water. The amount of pesticide that migrates from the intended application areas and into the environment is influenced by the chemical’s characteristic properties, its ability to bind to the soil, its vapor pressure, water solubility, and the chemical’s resistance to being broken down into harmless substances over time.

Chapter 9 Page 56 What You Need to Know About Pesticides The use of pesticides can increase air pollution. Pesticide drift happens when pesticide droplets that are suspended in the air are carried by wind to other areas. Some pesticides can vaporize and can be blown outside of the immediate area into wildlife habitats or your neighbor’s yards. Droplets of sprayed pesticides can stick to particles in the wind, like dust and pollen, and be deposited on non-target areas. (The trees on the right have been subjected to over-spraying of herbicides.) Homeowners should have a buffer zone around any stream or surface water area, including drainage ditches, or low spots where water collects. The buffer zone is an area where few, if any, pesticides are applied. Some homeowners plant evergreen trees to serve as windbreaks around their property. While the trees may absorb the drift from spray applications and prevent it from entering your neighbor’s property, wildlife in the trees may be subject to contamination.

Based on studies conducted by the US Geological Survey, pesticides were found in nearly every stream and over 90% of the wells sampled. Pesticide residues have been found in rain water and groundwater. There are five major routes through which pesticides may reach the water: 1. Pesticides may drift outside the target area, directly entering surface water bodies; 2. Pesticides may leach through the soil, if applied to the ground, eventually entering the groundwater; 3. Soil contaminated with pesticides may be eroded; 4. Pesticides may be carried by rain water running off the ground surface into streams; and 5. The user may inadvertently spill the pesticide.

Pesticides can contaminate the soil by direct application, drift, or accidental spills. On the right, a school was closed because of high pesticide residuals from an un-documented pesticide spill. The use of pesticides decreases the general biodiversity of soil, (many species of organisms live in soil, which encourages plant growth). Not using chemicals increases soil quality, with the additional effect that there is more organic material in the soil, which allows for higher water retention.

Pesticides can, if not used carefully and according to directions, start a cycle of soil destruction. The use of pesticides results in less biodiversity, which results in less organic matter in the soil. Less organic matter in the soil results in a poorer soil quality, making it more difficult to grow plants, and making them more vulnerable to disease and pests. Less organic matter in the soil also increases the amounts of pesticides that will leave the area of application, potentially contaminating a larger area. Organic matter in the soil helps to bind and break down pesticides into less harmful substances. Chapter 9 Page 57 What You Need to Know About Pesticides While pesticides can be beneficial to control pests, they can also interfere with the nitrogen cycle, which is critical for plant growth. Therefore, the over-use of pesticides can result in smaller plants with fewer blooms, or lower yields in the vegetable garden. The diversity of wildlife habitats throughout our country is surprising. In rural areas, fence rows, fields, pastures, ponds, wetlands, and woodlands comprise important habitats for many species of wildlife. Wild species also inhabit urban landscapes, finding food and shelter in lawns, cemeteries, golf courses, parks, and other areas. Collectively, these habitats provide resources to support plants, (flora), and animals, (fauna). Herbicides can be very beneficial in restoring wildlife habitats by reducing or removing exotic, invasive species or noxious plants. They must, however, be used carefully, and according to the directions for use listed on the label.

Areas that provide habitat for wildlife also may bring the wildlife into contact with human activities. Urban expansion for new housing, manufacturing facilities, and other activities not only consumes valuable habitat but also may bring wildlife into contact with pesticides used on turf, ornamental, and landscape plantings, gardens, highway right-of-ways, parks, and rodent and mosquito abatement programs.

Watching wildlife in natural settings appeals to persons of all ages and ethnic, educational, and social backgrounds. Eighty-five percent of Americans participate in some wildlife observation activity, (such as whale, bird, and butterfly watching). Ecotourism has become a lucrative market; many businesses and communities actively advertise and attract tourists to observe wildlife. Wildlife viewing tours organized by professional biologists are in demand, and tourism is supported by a variety of jobs relating to lodging, meals, transportation, art, equipment, and the media. Taxes from the sale of hunting and fishing licenses and certain outdoor equipment provide revenue to purchase, maintain, and restore wildlife habitats. It is important that we, as a society, do all we can to maintain and preserve the natural world and benefit from its existence. Using pesticides as a part of an Integrated Pest Management program can help to increase the number and diversity of wildlife habitats. The term wildlife used in this guide includes insects, spiders, mammals, birds, fish, amphibians, reptiles, and plants. A wildlife habitat is any location where a species can meet its need for food, cover, water, space, and breeding. Wildlife habitats are not just large forested areas, or shorelines of rivers and streams. Wildlife habitats may be very small, native and man-made, and exist in urban areas as well as agricultural fields, and in the wilderness.

Chapter 9 Page 58 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Animals may be poisoned by pesticides by eating food that has been contaminated, such as when birds eat grasshoppers or worms that have been newly killed. Widespread use of pesticides can eliminate food sources – some targeted weeds are a good source of nutritious food for birds. This eliminates food sources, causing the animals to relocate, change their diet, or starve. (Remember that the word “weed” is a relative term.) In some cases, the poisoning can travel up the food chain. Small birds eat contaminated worms and other food, and are they themselves eaten by larger birds of prey, such as the hawk at right. Since many insecticides can build up to toxic levels in the animal’s body over time, this can have a high impact on predators.

The US Federal Wildlife Service estimates that about 20% of the endangered and threatened species in the US are jeopardized by the misuse and overuse of pesticides. Don’t reach for the pesticide as a first choice. Use an Integrated Pest Management program to reduce the need for pesticides. Then, if pesticide use is necessary to reduce the pest to manageable levels, use a targeted pesticide according to the directions on the label.

Birds are common examples of non-target organisms that are often impacted by pesticide use. If applying a pesticide in your yard, make sure that bird feeders are removed and that bird baths are covered. The USDA estimates that over 67 million birds are killed by pesticides each year.

Some fungicides are only slightly toxic to birds, but, instead, kill off the organisms that the birds feed on. Use of these chemicals has decreased bird populations world-wide, as food sources and habitat have disappeared. Some pesticides, in granular form, may be mistaken for food by birds, resulting in poisoning. A few granules of some pesticides are enough to kill a small bird. Some herbicides, when sprayed onto bird eggs, cause abnormalities in embryos and reduce the number of chicks that hatch successfully. Most, however, do not, and herbicides that directly affect bird populations have been banned from homeowner’s use. However, over-use of herbicides reduces bird populations by reducing habitat. Fish and other aquatic biota may be harmed by pesticide-contaminated water. Pesticide surface runoff into rivers and streams can be highly lethal to aquatic life, sometimes killing all the fish in a particular area. Pesticide-related fish kills are often un-reported, and very likely underestimated.

Chapter 9 Page 59 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Applications of herbicides, which are not as deadly to fish as a direct contaminant, can still cause fish kills when plants die and rot, using up all the oxygen in the water. Some herbicides, such as copper sulfate, which is used to kill algae and other aquatic plants, can be toxic to fish and other water animals. Repeated exposure to even sub-lethal doses can cause physiological and behavioral changes in animals that reduce populations. Herbicides can also kill off the plants and other small animals necessary for the fish to survive.

Some scientists feel that the breakdown of some pesticides into other substances can, in themselves, become toxic to various amphibians. Whether contaminated by direct spray, drift, or other means such as runoff, amphibians are very vulnerable to the effects of pesticides and pesticide by-products. The US EPA requires toxicology studies for all registered pesticides used in the US. Most pesticides available to the home owner are not to be applied in amounts that would be considered to be toxic to amphibians at this time.

Mixtures of multiple pesticides appear to have a cumulative toxic effect on frogs and other amphibians, such as this salamander shown at right, who was born with no eyes. Researchers have found that congenital deformities in frogs, such as eye, mouth, and limb malformations, may have been caused by pesticide by-products, even when the pesticide itself did not pose a threat. Some herbicides have been shown to decrease the abilities of frogs to reproduce, further reducing populations.

Herbicides account for 70% to 80% of all pesticides used in the US. Only a few herbicides are acutely toxic to wildlife, (and they are not available for homeowner use), but they can have a major effect on wildlife. Also, as previously stated, research is now being conducted on herbicide by-products, which may be highly toxic to amphibians. Insecticides are most acutely toxic to wildlife. Most of the insecticides in use today are organophosphates, (Malathion, Parathion, Dimethoate), or carbamates, (Aldicarb, Carbofuran). While these chemicals don’t tend to bio-accumulate or persist in the environment, most are more acutely toxic than the organochlorine compounds, (DDT, Aldrin, Dieldrin, et. al.), which were banned because they have both accumulative effects and persist for longs periods of time in the environment. The newest group of insecticides, the synthetic pyrethoid compounds, includes such products as Efenvalerate, Cyfluthrin and Cyhalothrin. These pesticides are not highly toxic to birds, but great care must be taken if used near an aquatic environment.

Chapter 9 Page 60 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Environmental Fate of Pesticides When a pesticide is released into the environment many things happen to it. Sometimes, what happens is unintentionally beneficial. For example, the leaching of some herbicides into the root zone can give you better weed control. Sometimes, it can be harmful, as not all of the pesticide is applied to the target pest. For example, runoff can move a herbicide away from target weeds. The chemical is wasted, weed control is reduced, and there is more chance of damaging other plants and polluting soil and water. Many different processes affect what happens to pesticides in the environment.

Adsorption is the binding of pesticides to soil particles. The amount a pesticide is adsorbed to the soil varies with the type of pesticide, soil, moisture, soil pH, and soil texture. Pesticides are strongly adsorbed to soils that are high is clay or organic matter. They are not as strongly adsorbed in sandy soils. Most soil-bound pesticides are less likely to give off vapors or leach through the soil. They are also less easily taken up by plants. The dry clay soil shown at right is an example of a soil that may not give the best results when using a pesticide due to high adsorption rates.

Volatilization is the process of solids or liquids converting into a gas, which can move away from the initial application site. The movement is often called vapor drift. Vapor drift from some herbicides can damage nearby plants. Pesticides volatilize more readily from sandy and wet soils. Hot, dry, or windy weather and small spray drops increase volatilization. When purchasing a spray applicator, look for one that produces larger drops to reduce volatilization.

Spray drift is the airborne movement of spray droplets away from a treatment site during application, which is illustrated by the picture on the right. Spray drift is affected by: 6 Droplet size – the smaller the droplet, the more likely it will drift; 6 Wind speed – the stronger the wind, the more pesticide will drift; 6 Distance between the nozzle and the target plant or ground – the greater the distance, the more the wind can affect the spray. How could the man on the right have prevented spray drift? Perhaps he should have investigated a different formulation or different method of Spray drift can seriously harm you, your family, your application. neighbors, and the environment. AVOID spray drift!

Drift can damage nearby sensitive plants, or can contaminate water bodies, pollinating or blooming plants, or fruited plants, which can kill the wildlife. Drift may be a hazard to you, your children, pets, and neighbors, domestic animals or pollinating insects. Drift can contaminate water in ponds, streams, and ditches, and harm fish and other aquatic plants and animals. Excessive drift also reduces the amount of

Chapter 9 Page 61 What You Need to Know About Pesticides pesticide applied to the target, which reduces the effectiveness of the treatment. Drift can waste a lot of the pesticide product, increasing costs for the same end result.

Runoff is the movement of pesticides in water over a sloping surface. The pesticides are either mixed in the water or bound to eroding soil. Runoff can also occur when water is added to an area faster than it can be absorbed into the soil, like the scene shown at right. Be sure not to water lawn and landscape areas too much after applying a pesticide. Long, slow watering times are more effective, and do not produce pesticide-contaminated runoff.

The amount of pesticide runoff produced depends on the slope of the ground, the soil’s texture and moisture content, the amount and timing of a rain event or watering interval and the type of pesticide used. Pesticide runoff can be reduced by: 1. Using minimum tillage techniques to reduce the risks of erosion; 2. Grading surfaces to reduce the degrees of slopes; 3. Construction of a dike or a berm to contain runoff; and 4. Leaving a buffer zone, a border of vegetation and plant cover, to retain runoff. Pesticide losses from runoff are greatest when it rains heavily right after you spray. If heavy rain is expected, delay spraying or applying a pesticide until after the rains are over to avoid runoff. Water plants according to the instructions on the label of the pesticide.

Leaching is the movement of pesticides in water through the soil. Leaching occurs downward, upward, or sideways. Leaching may also be explained by the percolation of water through the soil horizons, where the water picks up chemicals present in the soil, carrying the chemicals, usually downward, toward and into the water table below. The picture on the right shows various soil horizons where leaching can occur. Usually, most leaching of pesticides occurs in the top layer of soil. However, the pesticide can continue to move downward, as rain water percolates through the soil down to the water table. Leaching can also take place in an upward or sideways direction—whatever the direction of the flow of water through the soils. Groundwater may become contaminated with pesticides if they leach from treated landscape areas, mixing sites, washing sites, accidental spills, or waste disposal areas.

Leaching can be increased when the pesticide is water soluble, the soil is sandy, a rain event of watering is completed shortly after application, or the pesticide is not strongly adsorbed to the soil. Be careful when watering any area that has been treated with pesticides. Small volumes of water at infrequent intervals are less likely to move pesticides from their target location than large volumes of water at more frequent intervals.

Chapter 9 Page 62 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Absorption is the uptake of pesticides and other chemicals into plants or microorganisms. Most pesticides break down once they are absorbed. Pesticide residues may be broken down or remain inside the plat or animal and can be released back into the environment when the animal dies or as the plant decays. Some pesticides stay in the soil long enough to be absorbed by plants grown in a site years later. They may damage or leave residuals in future plants. Only by removing the plant completely can increase the chance of removing pesticide residues. Degradation is the process of pesticide breakdown after application. Pesticides are broken down by microbes, chemical reactions, and light or photodegradation. The process may take anywhere from hours to a few days to years, depending on chemical characteristics of the pesticide and the environmental conditions of the application area. Pesticides that break down quickly generally do not persist in the environment or the crop. However, pesticides that break down too rapidly may only provide short-term control of the pest.

Microbial degradation is the breakdown of chemicals by microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria, such as the microbe seen at right. Microbial breakdown tends to increase when: 6 Temperatures are warm; 6 The soil pH is favorable; 6 Soil moisture and oxygen are adequate; and 6 Soil fertility is good.

Chemical degradation is the breakdown of pesticides by chemical reactions in the soil. The rate and type of chemical reactions that occur are influenced by: 6 Adsorption of the pesticide in the soil; 6 Soil temperatures; 6 pH levels, many pesticides, especially the organophosphate insecticides break down more rapidly in alkalinic soils, (pH 7+); and 6 Soil moisture. Photodegradation is the breakdown of pesticides by sunlight. All pesticides are susceptible to photodegradation to some extent, (see Safely Storing Pesticides). The rate of breakdown is influenced by the intensity and spectrum of sunlight, length of exposure, and the properties of the pesticide. Pesticides applied to foliage are more exposed to sunlight than pesticides that are incorporated into the soil. Pesticides may break down faster inside plastic-covered greenhouses than inside glass greenhouses, since glass filters out much of the ultraviolet light that degrades pesticides. Pesticide Characteristics Help Determine Environmental Fate Pesticide characteristics are also important in determining the fate of the chemicals in the environment. These characteristics include: 1. Solubility in water, (water solubility); 2. Tendency to adsorb to the soil, (soil adsorption); and 3. Pesticide persistence in the environment, (half-life).

Chapter 9 Page 63 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Pesticides with high water solubility, low tendency to adsorb to soil particles and a long persistence or half-life have the highest potential to move into water. These three factors are commonly used to rate pesticides for their potential to leach into the groundwater, or move along with surface water after application. The hydrologic cycle at right shows how water moves through the atmosphere, the ground, and over the surface. Pesticide products can be introduced at any point within the hydrologic cycle.

Soil adsorption is measured by a number called Koc, which is the tendency of pesticides to be attached to soil particles. Higher values, (greater than 1000), indicate a pesticide that is very strongly attached to soil and is less likely to move unless soil erosion occurs. Lower values, (less than 300-500) indicate pesticides that tend to move with water and have the potential to leach or move with surface runoff. Water solubility is measured in terms of parts per million, (ppm). This measured how easily a pesticide can be washed off a target, leach into the soil, or move with surface runoff. Pesticides with solubilities of less than 1 ppm tend to remain on the soil surface. They tend not to be leached out, but may move with soil sediment in surface runoff if soil erosion occurs. Pesticides with solubilities greater than 30 ppm are more likely to move with water. Pesticide persistence is measured in terms of the half-life. This is the time, in days, required for a pesticide to degrade in soil to one-half its original amount. For example, if a pesticide has a half-life of 15 days, 50% of the pesticide applied will still be present 15 days after application and half of that amount, (25% of the original), will be present after 30 days. In general, the longer the half-life, the greater the potential for pesticide movement. A pesticide with a half-life greater than 21 days is considered to persist long enough to leach or move with surface water before it degrades. No one factor can be used to predict pesticide behavior. It is the interaction of these factors along with the conditions that were present during application that determines the true pesticide behavior. Effects of Pesticides on Wildlife Pesticide’s effects on wildlife can be lethal, sub-lethal, acute, chronic, habitat related, or there may be no effect. In general, the risk a pesticide poses to wildlife is related to the pesticide type, its toxicity, the proximity of the application to wildlife habitat, the dose, application rate, number of applications, the persistence of the pesticide in the environment, and its ability to concentrate in the wildlife food chain. These factors, inherent with food habits and behaviors of individual wildlife species, contribute to the likelihood of an adverse response.

Chapter 9 Page 64 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Sometimes, pesticide effects are not ‘noticeable’ until several generations have passed, when the pesticide product used produces birth defects in the offspring of the contaminated animal. The deer shown at the right was believed to have had one or more ancestors contaminated by a now banned pesticide. This pesticide would not have been available for homeowner use. In addition, the US EPA has increased testing standards through time.

In general, insecticides are more toxic to fish and wildlife than herbicides and fungicides. Some herbicides may harm wildlife by damaging the wildlife habitat, if not used carefully. However, control of weeds, grass, and trees along roads, power lines, and right-of-ways is necessary for the health and well- being of humans, and the wildlife. Many of the insecticides currently used are either the Organophosphate or Carbamate type. These insecticides work by interfering with the central nervous system of insects. The central nervous system of fish or wildlife may be similarly affected, as well. The toxicity of these insecticides ranges from slightly toxic products to products that are highly toxic.

The more toxic products are Restricted Use Pesticides, which are not available to the homeowner, and require application by a certified professional pesticide applicator. Some pesticides have been designated Restricted Use Pesticides, (RUPs), so that their application may be better regulated, such as the Endrin, shown on the right. A listing of Federally Registered Restricted Use Pesticides may be found in APPENDIX I. Synthetic Pyrethroid insecticide use has been on the increase. These synthesized insecticides are based on naturally occurring pesticides, but have been modified to improve performance and persistence. Synthetic Pyrethroids are low to medium in toxicity to mammals and birds because these animals can quickly detoxify and excrete them. However, fish and aquatic invertebrates can not quickly detoxify or excrete these pesticides, so they are highly susceptible to poisoning by the products.

Herbicides and fungicides are generally low to moderately toxic to wildlife. Particular herbicides can have a large impact on the plant life making up the wildlife habitat. Direct Effects – Wildlife can be exposed to pesticide directly or by eating contaminated food or water, breathing pesticides, or by skin absorption. The type and magnitude of the effect depends on two factors, the pesticide toxicity and pesticide quantity, (dose). If exposure causes the animal’s death, it is referred to as a lethal effect.

Chapter 9 Page 65 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Young birds that eat or are fed pesticide treated insects are at great risk of suffering lethal pesticide exposure effects. Sub-lethal insecticide effects occur when damage to the central nervous system causes an animal to behave in an unusual manner. This behavior may affect the animals’ ability to survive or reproduce. Some typical sub-lethal responses in birds exposed to pesticides include the inability to sing properly, establish a breeding territory, or attract a mate. Adults may be unable to care for themselves or their young, resulting in death to the nestlings or an increased chance of predation.

The lethal and sub-lethal effects of pesticides on wildlife and fish may occur from one exposure over a short time period, (acute), or they may result from exposures to small amounts over a longer period of time, (chronic). Pesticides commonly used today do not persist as long in the environment as pesticides used years ago. The tradeoff is that the acute toxicity of some of these modern pesticides is higher than the older, more persistent chemicals. Indirect Effects – Wildlife in general, and birds in particular, may also experience lethal or sub-lethal effects without be directly exposed to a pesticide. The typically occurs when a pesticide application destroys or disrupts food sources such as insects.

Insects supply the protein necessary for growing birds. Studies indicate that the growth of young birds can be stunted in areas where insecticides have been used heavily, resulting in insect populations too low to meet young bird protein growth demands. Fish that feed on aquatic insects and animals may also show stunted growth in areas of heavy insecticide use because their primary food sources are killed. Inadequate diets also can affect fish reproduction and survival. Herbicides can reduce the amount of cover and make the habitat less suitable for nesting.

Acute Poisoning – Short exposures to some pesticides may kill or sicken wildlife. Examples of acute wildlife poisoning include fish kills that are caused by pesticide residues carried to ponds, streams, or rivers by surface runoff or spray drift, and bird die-offs caused by foraging on pesticide treated vegetation or insects, or by the consumption of pesticide-treated granules, baits, or seeds. In general, acute poisoning to wildlife take place over a relatively short time, impacts a very localized geographical area, and is linked to a single pesticide. Chronic Poisoning – Exposure of wildlife over an extended period of time to pesticide levels not immediately lethal may result in chronic poisoning. The most well-known example of a chronic effect in wildlife is that of the insecticide DDT on reproduction in certain birds of prey. The reduction of these compounds in the 1970s and early 1980s has resulted in decreased residues in most areas, and the reproduction in birds has greatly improved. However, the use of these pesticides in foreign countries may pose a risk to migratory birds that winter there.

Chapter 9 Page 66 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Federal Requirements for Testing Pesticides – Effects on Wildlife When making decisions about pesticides, one should consider both the potential benefits and potential risks of their use. Pesticides contribute many positives to our society:

1. Reduction of insect-vectored and waterborne diseases; 2. Production of an abundant food supply; 3. A positive impact on our balance of trade; 4. Nourishment for the world; 5. Reduction of soil erosion; and

6. Enable our food production to be maintained by only 2% of the population. These benefits must be evaluated constantly, in order to Mosquito larvae – mosquitoes can carry a prevent the use of pesticides that might cause unacceptable variety of diseases. adverse effects.

Not all pesticides have a detrimental effect on wildlife, nor do pesticide residues necessarily lead to serious consequences to wildlife. The potential impact must be evaluated by simultaneously considering the availability of the pesticide or its degradation products, the toxicological properties of the pesticide and the ecological characteristics of the exposure. The potential impact must also be assessed against the benefits to humans and other wildlife. Due to the complexity of these issues, many scientific disciplines must play a role in both the studies and the interpretations of the results. The degree of direct impact of a pesticide on wildlife is determined by the sensitivity of the species to the chemical, and the degree to which the species is exposed. The complexity of the issue is best shown by the four major questions the EPA asks in order to interpret to overall risk to wildlife of a particular pesticide: 1. What level of a pesticide residue, or its breakdown product, is introduced into a wildlife habitat through direct application or via the transportation of residues in air, water, food, or soil? 2. How long does the pesticide remain in the environment? 3. Is the animal or plant exposed to the pesticide by mechanisms that include dermal contact, inhalation, or consumption of contaminated food and water? (Means by which non-target species may also be contaminated?) 4. Is the pesticide capable of producing biochemical effects, illness, or death through either single or multiple exposures? Wildlife Stewardship Often, there is more than one product or management practice available to control a particular pest. Ideally, the decision to purchase a pesticide should be based on more than a cost comparison and performance evaluation. An important consideration is a review of the various pesticide labels for hazards to wildlife; users should select the least toxic product or a product that represents the least hazardous product to non-targeted wildlife in the area to be treated.

Chapter 9 Page 67 What You Need to Know About Pesticides The decision to protect wildlife and practice pesticide stewardship is a part of accepting the pesticide label as a legal document, which represents the minimal level of caution for the pesticide’s use. The pesticide user should exercise common sense and be alert to wildlife that inhabits the application site and surrounding areas. Users can supplement label directions will additional safety measures to protect the integrity of a habitat and its corresponding wildlife populations. For example, non-target plants may be covered with newspaper prior to spraying an herbicide. (Just be sure to dispose of the newspaper in the same manner as you would dispose of the chemical itself. Read the label for directions!) Using Integrated Pest Management is an option for both reducing pest levels and practicing good stewardship of the wildlife. Some pesticides are especially toxic to specific groups of animals. For example, rotenone, a botanical insecticide that is only moderately toxic to humans and other mammals, is lethal to fish, and MUST be kept out of streams, ponds, and lakes. Check the label for any special warnings or instructions for the protection of humans, wildlife, and the environment. The long-term well-being of our homes and property depends on good quality soil, water, air, and other natural resources. In order to preserve and protect these resources, home management of pesticides is imperative. Although pesticides can be a help to the environment when they are used wisely and carefully, they may also cause environmental problems when not used according to the label’s instructions. The main environmental concerns related to pesticides are soil, water, or air pollution, and damage to non-target organisms including plants, birds, wildlife, fish, and crops. The main causes of pollution or non-target damage are: 6 Pesticides inappropriately applied; 6 Spray or vapor drift, as pictured on the right; 6 Spills; 6 Backflow; and 6 Improper disposal of chemicals and containers. The most beneficial action a homeowner can take regarding pesticides is to use pesticides according to label directions.

Be careful around natural areas on your property: 1. All wildlife need natural areas in which to feed, rest, reproduce, raise young, and take shelter. Create wildlife habitat by encouraging and promoting the growth of native vegetation. This reduces the need for the use of pesticides, reduces the costs of mowing, and saves time. 2. Select disease resistant trees and shrubs to plant on your property, or use only native landscape plants. This reduces the need for pesticide use. 3. Prevent wildlife poisonings by storing and mixing pesticides in a separate area from wildlife feed.

Chapter 9 Page 68 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Wildlife will benefit when you understand and follow the pesticide label: 1. Keep wildlife habitats located or near your property in mind when reading labels. 2. Compare labels and select highly specific products which pose reduced risks to non-target species. Read the label carefully and use the lowest effective rate.

3. Calibrate equipment carefully to assure that the pesticide is applied at the label-recommended rate. 4. Ask the retail outlet for the Endangered Species Bulletin when indicated by the label, or contact your federal or state agricultural and conservation agencies for bulletins. 5. Take heed of the label. The environmental and wildlife precautions on labels are based on scientific and regulatory actions. They must be followed. 6. Consult your state agricultural agency, or your Cooperative Extension Service for additional assistance on label certification or to determine potential pesticide impacts on wildlife.

Be on the alert for wildlife before and during pesticide applications: 1. If you can identify areas that are frequented by wildlife, especially flocks of birds, avoid spraying near those areas, or if possible, reduce the application rate. 2. Homeowners should search for bird and animal nests prior to spraying any pesticide, and avoid spraying near those areas.

3. Investigate the use of alternative pest control tactics, (i.e. mechanical, cultural, or biological), when available and practical, as a part of the IPM program. 4. Pest identification is a critical component of wise pesticide use. To save money by applying the right pesticide for the job, and to reduce the impact on wildlife, apply pesticides only when pests are present at unacceptable levels.

5. It is important to guard against pesticide drift and runoff. Use buffer zones, such as vegetation or grass strips adjacent to important habitats to help protect wildlife. 6. Do NOT make pesticide applications when rain is eminent. 7. Remember that multiple pesticide applications may have cumulative effects, especially during breeding seasons. Reduce the frequency of applications, when possible, and spot treat, if at all possible. Do not make broad applications over entire lawns if not needed.

Chapter 9 Page 69 What You Need to Know About Pesticides 8. Where practical, eliminate the use of pesticides altogether near nesting sites, vegetation near streams and wetlands, and areas that are dedicated to wildlife. Especially important are sensitive areas such as endangered species habitat, native plant communities, and sinkholes. 9. Check the label before using granules into the soil, and work or water them into the soil if at all possible. The product reaches the target pest more quickly, and birds are less likely to ingest granules. 10. Never spray leftover pesticides or wash off equipment near wetlands, rivers, streams, creeks, potholes, ponds, marshes, sinkholes, wildlife habitats, or drains leading to these areas. Dispose of the pesticide in a manner that is recommended on the label. Other tips to protect wildlife Granular pesticides or bait blocks that are left in the open may be found and eaten by non-target wildlife. EPA has recently banned the use of granular formulations of certain pesticides because birds have been poisoned when they mistook the granules for seeds. However, spray applications of these pesticides may pose no threat to birds. If you have a banned granular pesticide stored, dispose of it property through a Household Hazardous Materials Disposal site, or according to the directions on the label. Do not use the pesticide!

Which pesticides most affect birds? Most of the registered pesticides, (which are products in dosages or formulations that are not available for purchase by homeowners), that can harm birds are organophosphates and carbamates. These insecticides work well against a broad range of insects and are often less expensive than many alternatives, which adds to their popularity. Unfortunately, they are immediately toxic to birds, and are not very selective, affecting most other vertebrates and non- vertebrates, as well. They also break down very quickly in soil or water, which means that they must be applied to lawns and landscape areas more than once in a growing season. When accidentally eaten by or absorbed into the body of a wild animal, they are detoxified rapidly and excreted, unless of course, the animals dies first. Birds are 100 times more sensitive than mammals to the common insecticide Diazinon, which has been discontinued for homeowner’s use. Which pesticides are least toxic to birds? Some pesticides are more target-specific, and less toxic to birds. They still need to be used with caution, however. For example, synthetic Pyrethroids are not generally toxic to birds or mammals and are, therefore, more selective than the organophosphates or carbamates. However, they are particularly toxic to fish, amphibians, and terrestrial and aquatic invertebrates.

Microbes that are specific to the pest or to a small number of related insect pests as well as insect predators or insect parasites are usually the most target-specific of all insect control options. They result in the least amount of disruption to the natural environment. Birds are usually unaffected by the release of microbes to control insect pests, so this is a good control option that protects birds from pesticide poisoning.

Chapter 9 Page 70 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Which birds are most vulnerable? Some birds are more likely than others to be exposed to pesticide residues. One group at risk is birds that each large quantities of foliage that might have been recently sprayed, such as waterfowl and game birds. Another group at risk is insect-eating songbirds, which are attracted to insecticide granules and pesticide treated seeds. Species that gorge on insect pests, such as grasshoppers, are particularly vulnerable in times of pest outbreak, when humans apply pesticides to control the pest. Finally, scavengers and birds of prey are at a high risk for ingesting other birds or mammals that have been poisoned. Protect bees and other pollinators - Most herbicides and fungicides have relatively low toxicity to insects. However, some insecticides applied to control garden pests can kill a wide range of insects and invertebrates, both good and bad.

Honeybees, which pollinate garden crops and flowers, are a very beneficial insect, and very vulnerable to poisoning. Honeybee poisoning occurs when foraging bees collect contaminated nectar or pollen from sprayed blooming plants or contaminated water. Harm to honeybees can be avoided by applying very short-term residual pesticides only in early morning or evening when the bees are inactive.

Protect honeybees from exposure to pesticides by reading the label carefully for the targeted pest, and making sure that it does not target the bees. Bees are a very beneficial insect to our environment!

Other beneficial insects include: 6 Pollinators such as honeybees, bumblebees, and many other solitary bees; 6 Insect predators such as ladybugs, (pictured at right), wasps, predatory mites and spiders, and the larvae of lacewings and hover flies;

6 Parasitic insects such as certain wasps and certain flies.

Reduce the Risk of Bee Poisoning 1. Do not spray insecticides in the garden when blooms are open, or where spray drifts may contaminate the open blossom. 2. If insecticides are needed in an emergency, spray in the late evening when the bees are not foraging. Some products allow for early morning sprays but they always pose a greater risk to bees than evening sprays. Bees usually do not forage in temperatures under 55o F. 3. Use insecticides that are relatively harmless to bees. Diazinon, Guthion, Parathion, and Sevin are toxic to bees when applied anytime during bloom on which the bees are foraging. The hazard exists even if they are applied in the early morning or late evening. Malathion is hazardous to bees if applied in the early morning, and is toxic to bees all day. You may apply Malathion in the evening to reduce the risk to bees. 4. Use the least hazardous formulation. Liquid formulations are less toxic than wettable powder formulations.

Chapter 9 Page 71 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Preventing Environmental Emergencies There are several steps that you can take to minimize the impact of the pesticide products that you use.

1. Use pesticides only when absolutely necessary. 2. Select the least toxic and least persistent pesticide when possible. 3. Follow all label instructions including the application rate, buffer zones, and other safety precautions. 4. Do not destroy vegetation along fish-bearing waters and do

not spray it with pesticides.

5. Use precautions to prevent drift, leaching, and run-off to areas outside the treated area. 6. Never store pesticides near wells or pump houses. 7. Place baits in covered bait stations. 8. Prevent spills by following good housekeeping practices.

9. Clean up spills immediately.

10. Understand the biology and life cycle of the insect pest, and determine the best time for insecticide application. 11. Determine the potential impact of the selected pesticide on the environment by researching the pesticide before application. 12. Never apply an insecticide without first confirming that the insect pest population is threatening your garden or plantings. 13. Before application, always READ the LABEL and follow instructions. 14. Keep the phone number of the company that manufactured the pesticide on your Emergency Phone List, (see Appendix I).

If, after applying a pesticide, you notice that the wildlife is behaving erratically, contact the Poison Control Center at 1-800-222-1212 immediately and ask what to do. More information is available on this subject in Chapter 11. The symptoms of poisoning include: 6 Fatigue, nervousness, excessive thirst, eye irritation, weakness; throat and nose irritation; 6 Neurological symptoms such as shaking, twitching, staggering, wild flight paths, fluttering, or inability to

fly 6 Physical symptoms such as excessive panting, sweating, vomiting, foaming at the mouth, chemical burns on skin, 6 Difficulty breathing, unconsciousness, convulsions; or 6 If you have a feeling that the wildlife just “isn’t right”.

Chapter 9 Page 72 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Have the pesticide product that you used nearby for referral when you call. You may also wish to contact your County Extension Agent, the Department of Fish and Wildlife, or the State Department of Agriculture for more information and possible actions you can take to minimize effects on wildlife. More information is available under the Emergency section of this guide. Any pesticide that moves out of the target area during or after application is a pollutant. Pesticides can move off target in several ways. Wind disperses airborne pesticides, so they should not be applied when it is windy. Be especially careful if there is a stream, pond, or lake downwind from your application. Check the wind’s direction and relative speed before spraying by tying a light scarf to a pole or stick and placing it in your garden. Observe the way the wind is blowing and avoid spraying pesticides if there is much wind at all. Pay attention to spraying airborne pesticides that may drift downwind. Keep children, pets, toys, pet dishes, and other items out of downwind areas. Some pesticides are volatile in heat, vaporizing and rising off the treated surfaces, moving with breezes as an invisible cloud until, once cooled, they are deposited at a distant location. Pesticides should not be applied in very hot weather. Rain or sprinkler water can wash pesticides off target, especially on slopes. About half of the US population, (as much as 90% in rural areas), depends of groundwater for drinking. Careless application or disposal of pesticides can contaminate groundwater. READ THE LABEL for warnings or instructions on how to protect the groundwater and the environment before you apply the pesticide. Need more information? You can contact the US EPA directly: Office of Pesticide Programs, (7506C) 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20460 Telephone: 703-305-5017 Fax: 703-305-5558 US EPA, Region 4 Pesticide Section 61 Forsyth Street, SW Atlanta, GA 30-303 Telephone: 404-562-8968 www.epa.gov/region04/

You can contact the Kentucky Division of Pesticide Regulations: Kentucky Division of Pesticide Regulations Kentucky Department of Agriculture 100 Fairoaks Lane, 5th Floor Frankfort, KY 40601-1108 Telephone: 502-564-7274 You can Contact the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service to find your County Cooperative Extension: UK College of Agriculture S-107 Ag. Science Bldg. - North Lexington, KY 40546-0091 Phone: 859-257-4302 Fax: 859-257-3501 [email protected]

Chapter 9 Page 73 What You Need to Know About Pesticides References The references listed below were used to research this and other chapters pertaining to pesticide use.

10+ Questions About Household Products, US EPA, www.epa.gov/kidshometour/questions.htm About Labels, US EPA, www.epa.gov/kidshometour/labels.htm Acrobat Ant, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/entomology/444-287/444-287.html American-lawns, http://www.american-lawns.com/ Application Equipment, Chapter 8. Application Equipment for the Home Gardener, Cooperative Extension Service, North Carolina State University, www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Vegetables/veg16.html Apply Pesticides Accurately and Safely, This Land, www.thisland.uiuc.edu/57ways/57ways_20.html Argentine Ant, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/entomology/444-285/444-285.html Arthropod, Wikipedia Free Encyclopedia, www.kyagr.com/consumer/envsvs/index Attracting Beneficial Insects, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext..vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/insectpest/jan94pr1.html Bats, Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, http://icwdm.org/handbook/mammals/bats.asp Bats, Information for Kentucky Homeowners, http://www.biology.eku.edu/bats/kybatinfo.html Beneficial Insects, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/ornamentals/beneficials.html Benefits of Pesticides, pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B1121.htm Benefits of Pesticide Use , US EPA, Agriculture, Ag 101, Crop Production, Agricultural Pesticide Use, www.epa.gov/oecaagct/ag101/pestbenefits.html Bessin, Ric, Townsend, Lee. H., Hartman, John, and Nesmith, William C. Greenhouse Pesticides and Pesticide Safety, University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, PAT-4. Be Smart about Pesticides, National Pesticide Information Center, www.npic/orst.edu Best Management Practices for the Application of Turf Pesticides and Fertilizers, Recommendations of the Turf Best Management Practices Committee, Spring, 2009. Big Eyed Bugs, www.eduwebs.org/bugs/bigeyed.htm. Buy Less, Lock It up with Care, California Department of Pesticide Regulation, www.cdpr.ca.gov Calibrating a Manual Sprayer, Alabama Cooperative Extension System, www.aces.edu/department/crd/publications/ANR-748.html Children and Poisoning, Seconds Matter, Purdue University Pesticide Programs, 14 p. Chipmunks, Purdue University, Department of Entomology, http://www.entm.purdue.edu/Entomology/ext/targets/publicat.htm Choosing Pesticides Wisely, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-706/426-706.html.

Chapter 9 Page 74 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Citizen’s Guide to Pest Control and Pesticide Safety, US EPA, Prevention, Pesticides and Toxic Substances, EPA 735-K-04-002, 50 p. Clemson University Extension. Predaceous Stinkbug, http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/benefici/ce177.htm Braconid parasite, http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/benefici/ce174.htm Syrphid Fly, http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/benefici/ce173.htm Mantid, http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/benefici/ce178.htm Antlion, http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/benefici/ce170.htm Clemson University Pesticide Information Program, http://entweb.clemson.edu/pesticid/index.htm#up Cochran, Soni, Extension Associate, Don’t put the welcome mat out! Pest Proofing. http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/pest-proofing.shtml. Compendium of Pesticide Common Names, Oregon State University, www.alanwood.net/pesticides/introduction.html Consider Alternatives to Pesticides, University of Kentucky, www.pesticides.gov.uk/garden_home.asp Consumer Products Treated with Pesticides, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/treatart.htm Controlling Rodents, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/rodents.htm Controlling Pests around the Home, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/home.htm Cornell University Cooperative Extension, Pest Management Guidelines, http://ipmguidelines.org/Home/ Cotton Insect Scouting Guide, North Carolina State University, http://ipm.ncsu.edu/cotton/insectcorner/text.html Delta Farm Press, www.deltafarmpress.com/mag/farming_doing_world_good/ Diazinon: Phase Out of all Residential Uses of the Insecticide, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemicals/diazinon-factsheet.htm Discover Life, All Living Things, Butterflies, http://pick4.pick.uga.edu/mp/20q?guide=Butterflies Do’s and Don’t of Pest Control, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/doanddont.htm. ENTfacts, University of Kentucky, Department of Entomology, www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/dept/entfacts.asp Environmental Fate of Pesticides, British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/c_2.htm Environmental Protection, General Information, British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/c_1.htm Environmental Protection, Protecting Bees and Beneficial Insects, British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/c_3.htm Federally Registered Restricted use Pesticides, Entomology, Clemson University, http://entweb.clemson.edu/pestidi/document/fedrup.htm Fishel, Frederick M., Why Do We Use Pesticides?, University of Florida IFAS Extension, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pI140 Flatheaded Borers, University of Nebraska—Lincoln, http://entomology.unl.edu/ornamentals/pestprofiles/flatheaded_borers.shtml

Chapter 9 Page 75 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Guidelines for Safely Laundering Pesticide-Contaminated Clothing, North Dakota State University, www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/yf/textile/he382 Hall, Deborah, Hoosier Times Homes, Safe ways to pest proof your home for winter, October 30, 2001. Hazardous Materials and Waste Management Division, Disposal of Household Pesticides, www.cdphe.state.co.us/HM/hhw/howto/pesticides.htm Helping Wildlife Every Day, Red Creek Wildlife Center, http://redcreekwildlifecenter.com/blog/?p=45 How Household Pesticides Effect our Wildlife, University of Florida, Department of Natural Resources, www.felid.org/activities/page _36.htm How to Handle Pesticide Spills, Clemson University, Home & Garden Information Center, HGIC 2753, http://hgic.clemson.edu How Household Pesticides Affect our Wildlife, www.felid.org/activities/page_36.htm. How to Manage Pests, Key to Identifying Common Household Ants, www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/ANTKEY/odorous.html. How to Manage Pests in Gardens and Landscapes – Elm Leaf Beetle, University of California, Statewide Integrated Pest Management Programs, www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7403.html How to Pest-Proof Your Home, University of Kentucky, Department of Entomology, www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef641.asp. How to Pest Proof Your Home Naturally, www.ehow.com/how_2103712_pest-proof-home-naturally.html. How to Pest Proof Your Home, www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/how-to-pestproof-your- home-1 How to Succeed at Scouting for Pests, GreenMethods.com, http://greenmethods.com/necessary/scouting-plan. How to Use Insect Repellents Safely, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/mosquitoes/insectrp.htm Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Principles, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/ipm.htm IPM Scouting and Decision Making, Floriculture: Fact Sheets: Pest Management, www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/impschout.html Kemper Center for Home Gardening, Plant Finder, http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/alpha.asp Kentucky Revised Statute, KRS 217B, Pesticide Storage Use & Application Kentucky Division of Forestry, http://www.forestry.ky.gov/ Kentucky Climate Center, http://kyclim.wku.edu/ King County, (Seattle, WA), Government, Make Friends with your “good bugs”, www.govlink.org/hazwaste/house/yard/problems/goodbugs.cfm?entityID=100&Mod Landscape-America, http://www.landscape-america.com/index.html Landscape Pesticide Application Equipment, Purdue University Cooperative Extension, PPP-47 Large Yellow Ant/Citronella Ant, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/entomology/444- 283/444-283.html

Chapter 9 Page 76 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Laundering Pesticide Contaminated Clothing, Cornell University County Cooperative Extension, http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/facts-slides-self/gen-posaf-laund.html Laundering Pesticide Contaminated Clothing, Maine Farm Safety Program, www.umext.maine.edu/onlinepubs/htmpubs/2303.htm Limitations of Home Insect Foggers, (“Bug Bombs”), University of Kentucky, Department of Entomology, www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef643.asp Louisville/Metro Government, Preferred Trees and Shrubs, Appendix 10A, Preferred Plant List, March 2004, Land Development Code. Lyman, G. T., Turf Tips for the Homeowner, Integrated Pest Management for Home Lawns, Michigan State University, Turfgrass Science, Bulletin E08TURF, May 2002, www.turf.msu.edu Managing Hazardous Household Products, University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, IP-64 Managing Household Waste: Preventing, Re-Using, Recycling, and Composting, University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, IP-70 Methods of Mosquito Control, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/mosquitoes/mosquito.htm Mosquito Control, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/mosquitoes/ National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances, National Organic Program, USDA, www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&name National Pesticide Information Center, http://npic.orst.edu/gen.htm National Resources Institute, “Pesticides and Humanity: The Benefits of Using Pesticides. Cooper, Jerry, and Dobson, Hans. 5 p. National Wildlife Federation, It’s So Easy to Garden for Wildlife, http://www.nwf.org/gardenforwildlife/create.cfm?CFID=8634807&CFTOKEN=33218b855945f4d2- 8C237259-5056-A84B-C3B2150932CDEDE6 Nationmaster.com, Encyclopedia: Rove Beetle, www.nationmaster.com/encyclopedia/Rove-beetle Odorous House Ant, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/entomology/444-273/444- 273.html Ohio Floriculture Online, Ohio State University Extension, Beneficials of the Month: Predatory Mites, http://floriculture.osu.edu/archive/apr99/premite1.html Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet, Entomology Mud Daubers, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2078.html Pharaoh Ant, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2136.html Orkin.com: American Cockroach, www.orkin.com/cockroaches/american-cockroach Brown-Banded Cockroach, www.orkin.com/cockroaches/brown-banded-cockroach German Cockroach, www.orkin.com/cockroaches/german-cockroach Oriental Cockroach, www.orkin.com/cockroaches/oriental-cockroach Pavement Ant, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/pavement.html Pavement Ants, Pennsylvania State University, College of Agricultural Sciences – Cooperative Extension, www.eno.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/pavement_ant.htm

Chapter 9 Page 77 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Personal Protective Equipment for Pesticide Applicators, University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, PAT-6 Pest Control Devices, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/devices.htm Pesticide Action Network, PAN Pesticide Database, http://www.pesticideinfo.org/ Pesticide, Answers.com, www.answers.com/topic/pesticide Pesticide and Container Disposal, Government of British Columbia, Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, www.agf.gov.bec.ca/pesticides/d_9.htm Pesticide Application, Ontario Ministry of Agriculture Food & Rural Affairs, www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/gardbk/3appl.htm Pesticide Application Equipment, www-aes.tamu.edu/EQ.HTM Pesticide Application, Equipment, Calibration, and Spray Patterns, University of Delaware Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, IPM, NPS-4. Pesticide Container Disposal, Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service, Home and Garden Information Center, HGIC 2754, http//hgic.clemson.edu Pesticide: Definition, www.answers.com/topic/pesticide. Pesticide Emergencies, British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, http://www.agf.gov.be.ca/pesticides/g_6.htm Pesticide Fires – Prevention, Control, and Cleanup, British Columbia, Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/g_5.htm Pesticide Management, Chapter 5 Pesticide Poisoning, British Columbia, Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/g_1.htm Pesticide Registration Program, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/registration.htm Pesticide Residues in Foods, University of Kentucky, Department of Entomology, www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef009.asp Pesticide Safety: A Guide for Gardeners and Homeowners, North Dakota State University, Department of Agriculture, www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/hortcrop/ncr590w.htm Pesticide Safety and Calibration Math for the Homeowner, Purdue University, Botany, www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/PPP/PPP39.html Pesticide Safety Tips, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/pest_ti.htm Pesticide Spills, British Columbia, Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/g_4.htm Pesticides and Pest Prevention Strategies for the Home, Lawn, and Garden, Purdue University Cooperative Extension, www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/PPP/PPP34.html Pesticides and Spill Management, Purdue University, Purdue Pesticide Programs, PPP-28 Pesticides and Their Proper Storage, Purdue University Extension Service, PPP-26 Pesticides and Wild Birds, British Columbia Vancouver Island Wildlife, www.vancourverisland.com/Wildlife/wildlifeinformation/Pesticides%20and%20Wildlife

Chapter 9 Page 78 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Pesticides and Wildlife, An Introduction to Testing, Registration, and Risk Management, Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service, www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/PPP/PPP30.html Pesticides: Controlling Pests, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/ Pest Management Around the Home, Part I, Cornell University Cooperative Extension Publication, Miscellaneous Bulletin S74, http://ipmguidelines.org/Home/content/default.asp Pest Management for Water Quality, Virginia Cooperative Extension, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-615/426-615.html Pests and Diseases – Red Spider Mite, English Gardening, www.english- gardening.com/green_up_your_thumb/pest_diseases/red_spider-mite Planet Natural Garden Supply, BeneficialInsects101.com, www.beneficialinsects101.com/fly-parasites.html Play It Safe – Pesticides and Their Impact on Children: Key Facts and Talking Points, US EPA, EPA-735- F-07-003 Play It Safe – Poison-proof Your Home: One Room at a Time, US EPA, EPA-735-F-07-010 Play It Safe – Preventing Pests at Home, US EPA, EPA-735-F-07-002 Play It Safe – What You Need to Know About Pesticide Poisoning, US EPA, EPA-735-F-07-011 Powell, A. J., Maintaining Kentucky Lawns during Summer Drought. Prevent Poisoning in Your Home, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/poisonprevention.htm Protecting the Public from Pesticides Residues in Food, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/protect.htm Protect Your Child From Environmental Health Risks, University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, IP- 72, www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ip/ip72.htm Purdue University, Purdue Extension, PPP-70, The Benefits of Pesticides – A Story Worth Telling, 1-888- EXT-INFO, www.ces.purdue.edu/new Read the Label First, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/label/ Recognition and Managing of Pesticides Poisonings, US EPA, http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/safety/healthcare/handbook/handbook.htm#ordering Reducing Pesticide Use in the Home Lawn and Garden, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Publication Number 450-725, www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasfs/450-725/450-725.html Registered Product Report, University of Kentucky, Department of Agriculture. Regulating Biopesticides, US EPA, Pesticides, www.epa.gov/pesticides/biopesticides/ Reigart, J. Routt, M.D., and Roberts, James R., M. D., M.P.H., Recognition and Management of Pesticide Poisonings, Fifth Edition, US EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, 236 p. Reducing Pesticide Risks to Wildlife, Texas Natural Resources, TAMU, http://texnat.tamu.edu/publications/B-5095.htm Safe Handling of Pesticides, University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental Sciences, Cooperative Extension Services, http://commodities.caes.uga.edu/fieldcrops/tobacco/handbook/pesticides -98 Scouting, Forest Nursery Notes, July 1996.

Chapter 9 Page 79 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Scouting Methods, Rutger University. Signs and Symptoms of Pesticide Poisoning, University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, EC97-2505-A, http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/pesticides/ec2505.htm Simple and Safe Pesticide Storage, University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension, ENRI-125 Society of Kentucky Lepidopterists, http://bioweb.wku.edu/faculty/Marcus/photography.html Soil Basics – Creating Fertile, Healthy, Soil, GardenStew, http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e3-11-soil- basics---creating-fertile-healthy-soil.html Soil Quality Indicators: pH, Soil Quality Information Sheet, USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service, January 1998. Some Pesticides Permitted in Organic Gardening, Cooperative Extension, Colorado State University, www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/VegFruit/organic Special Types of Pesticides, University of Florida, IFAS Extension, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pi084 Species Information, Kentucky Department of Natural Resources, http://fw.ky.gov/kfwis/speciesInfo/countyList.asp?strGroup=1 Spruce Spider Mite Fact Sheet, Woody Ornamental Integrated Pest Management, http://woodypests.cas.psu.edu/Factsheets/InsectFactSheets/html/Spruce_Spider_Mite.htm Sticky Traps: A Useful Tool for Pest-Scouting Programs, Ohio State University Fact Sheet, Horticulture and Crop Sciences, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1033.html Streamside Management Zones, KRS The Antlion Pit, www.antlionpit.com/what.html The Why’s and How To’s of Pesticide Recordkeeping, Purdue University Pesticide Programs, PPP-54 Tips for Laundering Pesticide-Contaminated Clothing, University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, HE2-319 Tips for Pest Control, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/tips.htm Townsend, Lee, Flying “Lemons” Swarm, http://wwwuky.edu/Ag/kpn/kpn_97/pn970811.htm Types of Pesticides, Answers.com, http://www.answers.com/topic/poesticide Types of Pesticides, EPA Pesticides, www.epa.gov/pesticides/about/types Types of Pesticides, Pesticide Fact Sheets, pmep.cce.cornell.edu/facts-slides-self/core-tutorial/module13/index Understanding Pesticide Labels and Labeling, University of Kentucky Department of Entomology, www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id100 UNH Cooperative Extension News: Natural Resources Archives, Mulch Volcanoes, http://extension.unh.edu/news/natural_resources/ United States Department of Agriculture, PLANTS Profile, http://plants.usda.gov/ United States Environmental Protection Agency, Pesticides A to Z, http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/safety/healthcare/handbook/handbook.htm#ordering University of Florida IFAS Extension, EDIS, Beneficial Insects Sheet, http://edis.ifas.ufl.ecu/documant_in002

Chapter 9 Page 80 What You Need to Know About Pesticides University of Idaho, Beneficial Insects, www.uiweb.uidaho.edu/so-id/entomology/Beneficial_Insects.htm University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Aphids, ENTFACT-103 Allegheny Mount Ants, ENTFACT-015 Asian Lady Beetle Infestation of Structures, ENTFACT-416 Bagworms on Landscape Plants, ENTFACT-440 Bedbugs, ENTFACT-636 Biological Control of Flies, ENTFACT-502 Boxelder Bugs, ENTFACT-444 Brown Recluse Spider, ENTFACT-631 Cankerworms, ENTFACT-401 Carpenter Ants, ENTFACT-603 Carpenter Bees, ENTFACT-611 Carpet Beetles, ENTFACT-601 Centipedes and Pseudoscorpions, ENTFACT-647 Chiggers, ENTFACT-630 Cicada Killer Wasps, ENTFACT-004 Clothes Moths, ENTFACT-609 Clover Mites, ENTFACT-627 Cluster Flies, Face Flies and Blow Flies in Homes, ENTFACT-624 Cockroach Elimination, ENTFACT-614 Colorado Potato Beetle, ENTFACT-312 Common Spiders Found Around Homes and Buildings, ENTFACT-622 Controlling Nuisance Honey Bees, ENTFACT-606 Controlling Wasps, Hornets, and Yellowjackets, ENTFACT-620 Controlling White Grubs in Turfgrass, ENT-10 Cucumber Beetles, ENTFACT-311 Drainflies, ENTFACT-615 Eastern Tent Caterpillar, ENTFACT-423 Earthworms: Thatch Busters, ENTFACT-402 Eliminating Spiders Around Homes and Buildings, ENTFACT-623 Elm Leaf Beetles, ENTFACT-400 European Hornet in Kentucky, ENTFACT-600 Firewood Insects, ENTFACT-626 Foraging Yellow Jackets, ENTFACTS-634 Foreign Grain Beetle, ENTFACT-610 Fruit Flies, ENTFACT-621 Garden Fleahopper, ENTFACT-307 Grain Mites, ENTFACT-629 Grape Flea Beetle, ENTFACT-224 Green Lacewing, ENTFACT-148 Ground Beetles, ENTFACT-104 Gypsy Moth, ENTFACT-425 Horsehair Worms, ENTFACT-613 House Dust Mites, ENTFACT-646 Houseplant Insect Control, ENTFACT-406 How Far Can House Flies Fly?, ENTFACT-506 Insect Borers of Trees and Shrubs, ENT-43

Chapter 9 Page 81 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Japanese Beetles in the Urban Landscape, ENTFACT-451 Japanese Beetles, ENTFACT-409 Ladybugs, ENTFACT-105 Lone Star Tick in Kentucky, ENTFACT-648 Management of Head Lice, ENTFACT-607 Midges & Gnats, ENTFACT-632 Millipedes, ENTFACT-645 Mosquitoes: Practical Advice for Homeowners, ENTFACT-005 Parasitic Mites on Humans, ENTFACT-637 Peachtree Borer, ENTFACT-200 Plant Bugs and Lacebugs, ENTFACT-419 Powderpost Beetles, ENTFACT-616 Praying Mantids, ENTFACT-418 Ridding Your Home of Fleas, ENTFACT-602 Slugs, ENTFACT-407 Soldier Beetles, ENTFACT-625 Some Common Shade Tree Galls, ENTFACT-403 Southern Pine Beetle, ENTFACT-443 Sowbugs and Pillbugs, ENTFACT-439 Spider Mites on Landscape Plants, ENTFACT-438 Springtails, ENTFACT-420 Stinging Caterpillars, ENTFACT-003 Stored Product Pests in the Pantry, ENTFACT-612 Tent Caterpillars, ENTFACT-424 Termite Control: Answers for the Homeowner, ENTFACT-604 Ticks and Disease: Answers to Often Asked Questions, ENTFACT-618 Velvet Ants, ENTFACT-442 Whiteflies in Gardens, ENTFACT-303 Yard Wasps, ENTFACT-411 University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, 4H Entomology, Key to Common Insect Orders. University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Principles of Home Landscape Fertilization, ID-72 University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Taking Soil Test Samples, AGR-16 University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Soil Compaction in Kentucky, AGR-161 University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Soil Testing: What It Is and What It Does, AGR- 57 University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, Master Gardener Entomology Basics Order Arthropods, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/othrarth/othrarth.shtml Order Coleoptera, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/coleoptera/coleoptera.shtml Order Diptera, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/diptera/diptera.shtml Order Hemiptera, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/hemiptera/hemiptera.shtml Order Hemoptera, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/homoptera/homoptera.shtml

Chapter 9 Page 82 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Order Lepidoptera, http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/master_gardener/entbasics/lepidoptera/lepidoptera.shtml University of Kentucky Department of Agriculture, Ground Covers for Kentucky Landscapes, HO-78. University of Kentucky, Department of Agriculture, Kentucky Integrated Pest Management Program, http://www.uky.edu/Ag/IPM/ipm.htm University of Kentucky Department of Agriculture, Soil Sciences, http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Agronomy/Extension/soils/ University of Kentucky Entomology, Kentucky Critter Files: Ants, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/ants/ants.htm Assassin Bugs and Ambush Bugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/assassin/assassin.htm Bees, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/bees/bees.htm Brown Recluse Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/brownspider/brownspider.htm Caddisflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/caddisflies/caddisflies.htm Cellar Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/cellar/cellar.htm Cicadas, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/cicadas/cicada.htm Cobweb Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/cobweb/cobweb.htm Crab Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/crab/crab.htm Crane Flies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/craneflies/craneflies.htm Crickets, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/crickets/crickets.htm Damsel bugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/damsel/damsel.htm Damselflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/damselflies/damselflies.htm Dobsonflies & Fishflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/dobsonflies/dobsonflies.htm Dragonflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/dragonflies/dragonflies.htm Fire-colored Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/fire/fire.htm Flower Flies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/syrphid/syrphid.htm Fritillary Butterflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/fritillary/fritillary.htm Funnel Weavers & Grass Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/funnel/funnel.htm Grasshoppers & Katydids, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/grasshoppers/grasshoppers.htm Ground Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/ground/ground.htm Hercules Beetle, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/hercules/hercules.htm Horse Flies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/tabanid/tabanid.htm House Flies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/houseflies/houseflies.htm Jumping Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/jumping/jumping.htm Long-jawed Orb Weavers & Orchard Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/longjawed/longjawed.htm Lygaeoids, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/bugs/seedbugs/seedbug.htm Kentucky Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/beetlefile.htm Kentucky Butterflies & Moths, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/butterflies.htm Kentucky Centipedes, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/centipedes/centipede.htm Kentucky Harvestment, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/daddy/daddy.htm Kentucky Millipedes, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/millipedes/millipede.htm Kentucky Mites & Ticks, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/mites/mites.htm

Chapter 9 Page 83 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Kentucky Slugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/sllugs/slugs.htm Kentucky Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/spiders.htm Kentucky Sowbugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/sowbugs/sowbugs.htm Lacewings, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/lacewings/lacewings.htm Lady Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/lady/lady.htm Leaf-footed Bugs & Scentless Plant Bugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/bugs/leaffooted/leaffooted.htm Lightningbugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/lightning/lightning.htm Mayflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/mayflies/mayflies.htm Monarch Butterflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/monarch/monarch.htm Nursery-web & Fishing Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/fishing/pisaurid.htm Orb-weaver Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/orbweavers/orb.htm Plant Bugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/bugs/mirid/mirid.htm Praying Mantids, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/mantids/mantids.htm Purseweb Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/purseweb/purseweb.htm Robber Flies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/fobber/robber.htm Scorpionflies & Hangingflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/scorpionflies/scorpionflies.htm Soldier Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/soldier/soldier.htm Sphinx Moths, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/sphinx/sphinx.htm Stag Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/stag/stag.htm Stink Bugs, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/stinkbugs/stinkbugs.htm Stoneflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/stoneflies/stoneflies.htm Sulphurs & Whites, (butterflies), www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/sulphur/sulphur.htm Swallowtail Butterflies, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/butterflies/swallowtail/swallowtail.htm Tiger Beetles, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/beetles/tiger/tiger.htm True Bugs of Kentucky, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/bugs/bugfile.htm True Flies of Kentucky, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/flies/flyfile.htm Wasps, Ants, and Bees of Kentucky, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/insects/wasps/wasps.htm Wolf Spiders, www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/spiders/wolf/wolf.htm University of Kentucky, Integrated Pest Management, IPM for the Outdoor Classroom, www.uky.edu/Ag/IPM/teachers/outdoorsclassrm/whatisipm.html University of Nebraska – Lincoln, Extension in Lancaster County, Field Ants Identification, http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/ants/fieldant.shtml Using Pesticides Safely, US EPA, www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/safely.htm Walston, Brent, Spider Mites, Evergreen Garden Works, www.evergreengardenworks.com/mites.htm Welcome to the Division of Environmental Services, KY Dept. of Agriculture, www.kyagr.com/consumer/envsvs/index What is a Pesticide?, US EPA, Pesticides, www.epa.gov/pesticides/about/ What To Do About Household Ants, University of Minnesota Extension, www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/housingandclothing/M1166.html

Chapter 9 Page 84 What You Need to Know About Pesticides Why Read Labels? US EPA Wildlife and Pesticides: A Practical Guide to Reducing the Risk, North Dakota State University, Department of Agriculture, www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ansci/wildlfie/w11017-1.htm

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