Eastside Story: Capital Waters Smallmouth Bass

Eastside Story: Capital Waters

Smallmouth Bass by Vic Attardo You’d think that the business of Harrisburg, the capital of our Commonwealth, is government. But the anglers of Pennsylvania know the truth. They understand that the real business of Harrisburg is smallmouth bass fishing. photo-Vic Attardo photo-Vic

16 Pennsylvania Angler & Boater www.fish.state.pa.us WEST BRANCH SUSQUEHANNA RIVER Ever since the Fish and Boat Commission placed a 15-inch minimum size on the river be- tween Sunbury and Holtwood, P E N N S Y L V A N I A the lower Susquehanna has seen M A R Y L A N D NORTH BRANCH a radical improvement. It truly is a world-class fishery. SUSQUEHANNA But the Susquehanna is not the only liquid legend sur- RIVER rounding the state capital. Almost neglected by anglers are the hundreds of miles of warmwater streams that feed this Sunbury section of the river. On both sides of the Susky’s banks, there are over a dozen flows chock full of the same species that inhabit the Big S. With some exceptions in seasons, Wiconisco Creek and some specific habitats, the stream fish are rarely as JUNIATA RIVER large as those thriving in the river. But they are just as feisty Armstrong Creek and just as eager to hit a lure, fly, or bait as are the river fish. Millersburg Powell Creek In many ways, fishing the tributary streams is a more inti- Halifax mate experience. Besides the lack of angler competition, Stony Creek many of these waters can be crossed with a single cast. I Clarks Creek Swatara Creek know there are some amazing anglers who wade great dis- tances from either Susquehanna shore, but unless my boat Fishing Creek Conewago Creek is close by, I get nervous in the big river after a few hundred Chickies Creek yards. In the smaller streams, it’s not uncommon to Harrisburg traverse their full width. During the summer, when the sun Middletown Conestoga River is high and intemperate, I can often wade to the shady side Falmouth Pequea Creek of the creek where the UV rays are less hurtful and the fish Columbia are in hiding. SUSQUEHANNA RIVER My main target in the capital’s feeder streams is the smallmouth bass. But depending on the trends, I also find Safe Harbor Octoraro Creek good numbers of either rock bass or redbreast sunfish. Pequea Quite a few of the waters also have pickerel. In many of these streams, you’ll find that the lower 5 to 10 Conowingo Creek miles have the better warmwater fishing. That is certainly Pilot Station true in streams in Area 7 under the watchful eye of Commis- Octoraro sion Area 7 Fisheries Manager Larry Jackson. Some of these same waters are also stocked with trout in their upper CHESAPEAKE BAY reaches, and they have special regulation sections for trout. In Area 6, monitored by Commission Area 6 Fisheries Man- ager Mike Kaufmann, the warmwater fishing tends to extend farther upstream, sometimes 20 miles or more. Then, too, some of Mike’s streams swing into Maryland and actually flow into the Susquehanna below the Mason-Dixon line. I said that fish in the Susquehanna streams are smaller than the river fish. In my experience, 9-inch to 12-inch smallmouths are the common catch. But there are excep- The stream fish are tions. In the spring, when the river bass are spawning, it’s rarely as large as not unusual for large mini-mouths to travel into the those thriving in the streams. When bass are searching for nesting sites, I’ve river. But in specific caught 3-pound bass in the creeks, at least as far as the big-fish habitats stream’s first obstruction. I’ve also learned that in specific away from the river, big-fish habitats away from the river, it’s not uncommon to it’s not uncommon to find larger bass (and larger panfish). You may be walking find large bass and along, catching a horde of 11-inchers in shallow water. Far- panfish. ther on, the stream bends. There’s a pocket as dark as a storm cloud, and it’s shaded by a slanted sycamore. You cast to the darkness and POW! A 15-inch smallmouth bass takes your line. Be prepared–it happens. photo-Vic Attardo, graphic-Ted Walke

www.fish.state.pa.us Pennsylvania Angler & Boater 17 Clarks Creek Eastside Story: Clarks and the next two streams heading south, Stony Creek and Fishing Creek, are really known for their trout. Capital Waters But the lower three miles of Clarks from Route 225 down to the river is not too shabby for smallmouths. Above Route Smallmouth Bass 225 you get into the special-regulation trout area. Clarks Creek is a narrow stream with a fairly steep gradi- ent in places, but I think you can do better for bass.

When it comes to capital-water fishing, we can divide the Swatara Creek streams into two categories–those that flow into the river on Swatara Creek enters the Susquehanna at Middletown- the east side, and those entering on the west side. In this Royalton, and it’s one of the better smallmouth waters on story we’ll cover the streams on the east side of the river. At the east side with good numbers of bass and slightly big- another time we’ll explore the west side. I think you’ll find ger fish. The mouth of the Swatara is easily accessible a better variety of feeder streams on the east side. with the Commission’s Middletown Access and a nearby municipal park. Wiconisco Creek From Hummelstown down to the mouth, you can find Working down from the northern Dauphin County line, good smallmouth habitat with a substrate quite suited for the first major smallmouth stream in Larry Jackson’s terri- their needs. Upstream of the mouth, Swatara parallels rail- tory is Wiconisco Creek. Wiconisco enters the Susky at road tracks. You can find some excellent big-fish water Millersburg and flows somewhat parallel to Route 209. The north of Route 283 toward Hummelstown. After highway crosses the Wiconisco upstream above Rife. All of Hummelstown, the Swatara bends way to the east toward this section has a fishable population of bass and panfish, Hershey. Then it cuts up into Lebanon County and Swatara and the stream reaches into some wonderful rural country State Park. all the way to State Gamelands 264. The travel center for the mid-section of Swatara Creek is Wiconisco has more of a rocky substrate than some other Lickdale. Above Lickdale, the Swatara runs between Second streams, and it’s 50 to 60 feet wide in places. Unfortunately, Mountain on its north bank and Blue Mountain on its access on the lower Wiconisco, via crossing roads and south. Route 72 parallels the stream above Lickdale, but bridges, is not as good as some of the other streams we’ll access isn’t too good until you come to an iron bridge discuss, but it’s not impossible, either. Farther east of Rife, marked “Pittsburgh Bridge Co.” Nice bridge riffles. toward Elizabethville, the crossing roads become more nu- Upstream of this bridge is the noisy I-81 overpass and an- merous. Jackson gives this one a big thumbs up. other iron bridge, abandoned, marked “Berlin Iron Bridge Company, of West Berlin, Conn.” Nice bridge riffles here as Armstrong Creek well. The Pittsburgh bridge takes you into the state park. We’re getting narrow now. Armstrong is only 20 to 30 Farther north in Schuylkill County, Swatara Creek is feet wide, but it still has good numbers of smallmouths and still affected by acid mine drainage, so when you get into panfish. It’s also stocked with trout. the state park, either the smallmouth habitat is not too Armstrong flows into the Susky at Halifax, across from plentiful or the mine water is causing a problem. With Clemson Island. The best smallmouth fishing is up about that in mind, I prefer to do my bass fishing downstream of six miles to Fisherville. This is agricultural land and the the state park. access north of Halifax, from Route 225, is pretty good at A good section of the Swatara lies between Jonestown and the crossing roads. Ono, south of Route 22. Also, go south of Ono toward Val- ley Glen and you’ll find excellent water and plenty of Powell Creek crossing roads. Powell Creek enters the Susquehanna around Inglenook. You’ll find a solid population of smallmouth bass upstream Conewago Creek about 10 miles as far east as Enterline. I’m convinced more anglers don’t know about this fine Powell is a narrow stream, 20 to 30 feet wide, and in the smallmouth stream because it can’t be seen easily on a map. spring it is stocked with trout. It’s a low-gradient water, and The Conewago forms the border of Dauphin and Lancaster its pools are mostly sand and gravel. counties, so dotted lines show the county boundaries, mak- You’ll hear two themes throughout this story. One is that ing it tough to spot the stream’s thin, blue line. It also after a moderate to strong rain, the stream gets awfully doesn’t help that there’s a “Conewago Creek” on the west muddy. The other is that the mouth of a creek can be espe- side of the river in York County. The west side stream emp- cially good–whether you’re fishing the river or the stream. ties into the Susquehanna below York Haven, nearly Powell certainly gets muddy after a rain, and because it emp- opposite the east side stream, which empties at Falmouth ties into the river at a very good spot across from Haldeman and the foot of Three Mile Island. Island, it’s certainly a spot worth trying.

18 Pennsylvania Angler & Boater www.fish.state.pa.us photo-Vic Attardo Still, the Falmouth Conewago is wonderful smallmouth The Commission’s Rockhill Access, suitable for small and panfish water with reasonable access at many road boats, is between the villages of Slackwater and Rockhill. crossings in Dauphin, Lancaster, and Lebanon counties. It Muddy Creek is a tributary of the Conestoga, east of suffers from the same sediment problems as the other Napierville, with good smallmouth bass and panfish action. streams, but I’m very fond of it. Overall, the Conewago is frequently deep and unwadable. Pequea Creek This is a wide, often slow-paced stream. A canoe or small Here’s another goodie. Pequea Creek flows into Lake boat can take you to the good fishing, and you’ll find small- Aldred on the Susquehanna. Access for a few miles up- mouth bass anywhere from the PA Turnpike crossing stream is difficult, but it improves north of Martic Forge. downstream to the mouth. I’ve found good fishing between there and Route 272. Chickies Creek Conowingo Creek In Lancaster County, Chickies Creek is not very big, but it This stream also has plenty of smallmouths and panfish. holds a bunch of small smallmouths and panfish. What’s Conowingo is mostly in Pennsylvania, but it meanders into nice about Chickies is the access–loads of bridges and paral- Maryland and comes into the river below Pilot, Maryland. lel roads. It has the infamous Lancaster County sediment This is a major stream, but truthfully, I don’t know it well. problems, which means it turns chocolate-brown after a Those who work it say it’s wonderful. Kaufmann says that rain. If you live near Chickies, fish it. But if you’re visiting, fishing within a mile of the border is fair. go elsewhere. Octoraro Creek Conestoga River The last stream on the east side, Octoraro Creek is a real Here’s a stream (or river) with plenty of elbow room. It’s gem, and it also crosses the state border. Octoraro is a long not perfect smallmouth habitat, but you’ll find surprisingly waterway with good fishing above and below Chester- good bass from Millersville downstream. Octoraro Reservoir. This is one I’d definitely head to if I When Kaufmann’s team surveyed the lower section of the were looking for a new smallmouth-panfish experience. Conestoga, the stream came up aces. Below the reservoir you’ll find a 30-foot-wide stream with “I was very impressed with the size of the smallmouth a suitable number of bridge crossings and parallel roads. bass,” Kaufmann said. “We also found a greater abundance Above the lake I’d fish the East Branch or Muddy Run. of large bass per electrofishing hour than in my area of the If you live in the Harrisburg area, these streams are worth Susquehanna.” learning. And if you’re just visiting, go see the capital’s The best big smallmouth fishing on the Conestoga in my capitol building, the state museum, and the governor’s estimation is downstream of the dam near Route 30. Above mansion. Then grab you rod and reel and find one of these that the fish are generally smaller. The Conestoga reaches small treasurers. deep into Lancaster County with its shopping outlets and farms. You won’t find much access around the outlets.

www.fish.state.pa.us Pennsylvania Angler & Boater 19