CHRIS ELLENBOGEN; ILLUSTRATION: PAUL CARSTENSEN #SouthernFoodNow For more info, info, more For see page 8. page see

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along with stock from his A own garden at Asheville’s YOU DON’T NEED A BACK 40 Market Place Restaurant. AND COMMERCIAL KITCHEN TO “I watched my grandmoth- er do this for years, with EAT FRESH; YOUR BACKYARD a lot of love for her family A RETURN TO and respect for the land,” AND STOVE WILL DO. OUR ROOTS he says. You don’t need a back 40 and commercial kitchen to eat fresh; your backyard and stove will do. Home gardeners crave simpler recipes, while plant breed- ers have responded to the demand for small-space gardening with more con- tainer varieties than ever before. You can grow car- rots in a bucket, potatoes in a barrel. Even on a small scale, “it is about control AGRICULTURAL over some aspect of one’s life during uncertain times,” says Hank Will, RENAISSANCE a Master Gardener and editor-in-chief of the rural How the small farm, back-to-the land, life know-how magazine edible garden movement is reshaping GRIT. “We want to know where the food came from, the way we eat BY JAMIE COLE and that it was produced with our own health and tephen and Dawn His daughters sport muck well-being—and not blind BEER Robertson were boots and wash eggs to profit—in mind,” he says. computer geeks in earn allowance. Dawn has The “back-to-landers” S A another life. Stephen was a a kitchen garden and bar- of the past decade are now software engineer. Dawn ters meat for vegetables. settled in that ideal, that CRAFT REVOLUTION was a farm kid from way “We go to the grocery store life. From downtown to the back, and though her for some things,” Stephen exurbs, city slickers catch father had gifted her an begins; then Dawn finishes: on by maintaining rooftop acre and helped the couple “But not a whole lot in the gardens and urban farms, NOT SO LONG AGO , the build a house, they had a summertime.” while chefs continue predictable pilsner prevailed longing for land. The Robertsons made to ride the crest of the in Dixie. Red-and-white cans Today, Stephen’s only their move during a rural unstoppable farm-to-table bobbed in our coolers. We lived commute is a tractor ride renaissance. At the turn movement. It all comes the High Life at tailgates. But across East Fork Farm, a of the 21st century, popula- together in programs like now you’ll find us cracking open pastoral 40-acre valley in tions in rural counties— Outstanding in the Field— a different sort of brew. After many grassroots efforts to the mountains of Madison especially across the South farm tours that set tables revise laws governing beer County, North Carolina, and on both coasts—began for guests right in the pas- production, the South is now a that the couple found after to grow for the first time ture. When the Robertsons veritable hop heaven and craft obsessing over real estate since manufacturing drew hosted one such dinner, beer destination with the high- ads. After seven years of families out of the agrarian Dissen cooked up their rab- est annual production rates of telecommuting, he quit his lifestyle of the 1960s. Mean- bit in a gumbo and grilled any region in the country. If you job to farm full-time. The while, small farms, such as their lamb over coals. It haven’t paid your local brewery goal was to be self-sufficient East Fork, benefited from was an ideal expression a visit, now’s the best time to and sell fresh food—mostly a fresh food revolution, of a diner’s connection to enjoy the beers of summer. lamb, sometimes poultry spearheaded by chefs like food, but also of a deeper, Check out a state-by-state list of

and rabbit—locally at farm- William Dissen, who cooks longed-for connection LUKENATE PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGET; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS our favorites at southernliving ers’ and tailgate markets. the Robertsons’ products to the source—the land. .com/beer. —Hannah Hayes

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CONDIMENTS 3 MORE TO TRY

C Back 40 Beer C Vinegar The brewers at Gadsden, Ala- D bama’s Back 40 Brewery craft E this golden elixir DUKE’S by fermenting leftover MAYO beer. It’s really great

A with greens. back fortybeer.com/store DIY A N GUIDE Kerala Curry OBSESSION Tomato Chutney Your hot dogs just got 10 times better with this SEVERAL FRIENDS dynamic Pittsboro, recently chipped in and North Carolina, sauce. surprised me with a keralacurry.com painting of a jar of Duke’s phenomenon. After Euge- part, for reasons that first Pickled Pink Mayonnaise. I framed it nia Duke founded her first spurred its popularity Pickles and hung it above my enterprise, Duke’s Sand- nearly a century ago. Sold Our staff goes mantel. “Your mantel?” wiches, in Greenville, to Greenville drugstore crazy for my mother questioned. South Carolina, in 1917, she lunch counters, army can- former SL Test I’m not the only one was inundated with letters teens, textile mills, and BOTTLE THE ESSENCE Kitchen Director Lyda with a Duke’s art collec- from soldiers who’d been the Duke Tea Room in the of summer by making your own Burnette’s sweet and tion. As Erin Hatcher, stationed at nearby Camp Ottaray Hotel, Eugenia put ups with the season’s peak sassy pickled goods. brand manager for Duke’s Sevier. Home after World Duke’s mayonnaise has produce. Bonus: Homemade pickledpinkfoods.com Mayonnaise at the C.F. War I, they requested her long been an equal- condiments make great holiday Sauer Co. in Richmond, mayonnaise recipe: oil, egg opportunity spread—at gifts, so get pickling, infusing, and fermenting now. Virginia, told me, the com- yolks, and cider vinegar home on white bread 1 lb. fresh hot chiles pany receives countless (for tang) but no sugar sandwiches and crudités. (such as Fresno), paintings of Duke’s each (which was rationed dur- Duke’s is a monarch for BOURBON-SOAKED washed and stemmed 1 year, alongside fan letters ing wartime). the people. And a portrait CHERRIES 2 /2 Tbsp. kosher salt and pitches for TV com- It’s the same recipe of royalty belongs above 2 cups white vinegar Kirk Samuels of Chapel Hill, mercials. That isn’t a new that’s praised today—in the mantel. —Emily Wallace North Carolina, shared this 1. Process chiles and salt in a recipe. Stir the cherries and their food processor about 30 syrup into anything bourbon- seconds or until minced, flavored, or use them to gussy stopping to scrape down A up sparkling beverages, such sides as needed. Transfer TRIBUTE BEFORE BROOKLYN brunched on but- as club soda and ginger ale. chile mixture to a sterilized termilk biscuits and grits guest starred on West 1-qt. glass jar. Cover with Coast menus, there was John Egerton. He died 1 1 /2 cups refrigerated cheesecloth, and let stand in last November, but his legacy—of celebrating pomegranate juice a cool, dry place 2 days. and preserving the diversity and complexity of 1 cup sugar 2. Remove cheesecloth, and Southern food—is everywhere, starting with 1 lb. fresh cherries stir in vinegar. Cover mixture the chefs he mentored, the farmers he cham- 1 1 /2 cups bourbon completely (about 30 minutes). Chill 2 weeks before using. (Will your favorite chiles here, or with cheesecloth, and let pioned, and the writers he influenced. John’s 2. Remove pits from cherries, keep in fridge up to 6 months.) blend fiery ones with sweet stand in a cool, dry place 5 book Southern Food: At Home, On The Road, In 1. Bring first 2 ingredients to a leaving stems intact. Divide Makes 3 (8-oz.) jars. Hands-on 15 min.; ones to customize your own. days. (Skim and discard any History will remain a permanent fixture in our Total 45 min., plus 2 weeks for chilling simmer in a medium saucepan cherries among 3 (8-oz.) As for the consistency, we love film from surface, if neces- JOHN libraries. It reveals the beautiful and brutal stories of how we over medium-high heat, sterilized jars. Whisk bourbon the sauce in all of its chunky sary.) Cover jar with a came to know and love cornbread, country ham, and collard whisking constantly. Cook, into juice mixture, and pour glory, but if you want a tight-fitting lid; refrigerate up greens, while sparking conversations about race and class. He 1 CHUNKY HOT SAUCE whisking constantly, 10 minutes into jars, filling to /4 inch from smooth, looser take, press it to 6 months. set a table where all could gather over love for Southern food, or until mixture is syrupy. top; wipe jar rims. Cover with Fermentation is the secret to EGERTON and to that we raise high our glasses of sweet tea. —H.H. through a wire-mesh strainer. Makes 4 cups. Hands-on 15 min.;

Remove from heat, and cool metal lids, and screw on bands. this robust, piquant sauce. Use PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGET; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS PAINTING: AMY C. EVANS; PORTRAIT: PABLEAUX JOHNSON Total 15 min., plus 7 days for standing

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white pepper, followed by waves of red pepper for a subtle afterburn. Bonus: The paper packaging is vented, which keeps the crust from steaming to wilted flab inside the box. We wouldn’t blame you for trying to pass this off as your own.

2 | PUBLIX This fowl hits the fried bird tri- fecta for flavor (we detect celery F salt), crunch (deeply satisfying F and crust-shattering), and grease factor (extremely low— FRIED it’s eat-while-you-drive chicken). Leftovers held up well in the fridge, making this a prime CHICKEN candidate for picnics, family reunions, and church suppers. AND 3 | MRS. WINNER’S CHAMPAGNE CHICKEN & BISCUITS The golden brown crust, a flour- coated relief map with a glitter-

A like smattering of black pepper, REVIEW conceals supremely juicy meat. While fewer locations of this Georgia-founded chain dot the asphalt landscape than in years past, the chicken still WE GET THAT YOU holds court. don’t always have time to fry chicken at home. And in this age of convenience, 4 | LEE’S FAMOUS RECIPE there’s no shame in picking CHICKEN up a bucket of bird. But Modest-size thighs and legs which one’s the best? are enveloped in a pale blond, We blind-tasted our way almost buttery crust (our guess: the result of frying in vegetable through nine widely avail- shortening). At this 48-year- able brands—from big-box old franchise founded by Lee supermarkets to fast-food Cummings, nephew of KFC’s chains—in the SL Test Colonel Harland Sanders, BUBBLIN’ Kitchen and evaluated the they hand-bread, dip in honey, OVER samples (all dark meat, all and then pressure-fry every served at room tempera- piece of chicken. ture) for tenderness, crisp- There’s no better pairing than ness, greasiness, and over- Champagne and fried chicken— 5 | KFC and not just because it’s the all flavor. Here, the top five We’re betting “finger lickin’ perfect mix of high and low we takeout options that have good” wasn’t an accidental tag- Southerners love so much. Its us waving our wings. line—this chicken was the greasi- effervescent acidity works as est of the test. The Original recipe the ultimate grease cutter, keep- 1 | POPEYES LOUISIANA didn’t win any fans. But the Extra ing your palate crisp and clean KITCHEN Crispy got high marks for its THE CRUST, A FLOUR-COATED as you chow through the salty It’s tender and juicy with sea- beautifully mottled crust and deliciousness of fried yardbird. soning that goes deep, all the rich flavor. Among those top RELIEF MAP, CONCEALS You don’t have to spend big, but way from crust to bone. (Get secret herbs and spices, we do opt for a dry sparkling wine, this: It tastes like chicken.) The nosed out onion and garlic SUPREMELY JUICY MEAT. such as Spanish cava. Prosecco,

Cajun version vaunts a balanced powder and heaps of black PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGET; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS with its frothy bubbles and higher heat that starts up front with pepper. —Jennifer V. Cole sugar, just doesn’t cut the fat.

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WHITE, BROWN, AND PINK SHRIMP GULF Most “fresh” shrimp have G been flash frozen and de- G AND frosted, so buy them frozen if you’re not cooking them immediately. For defrosted shrimp, buy in the shell and ATLANTIC peel yourself; they should feel firm and look plump. Whether you buy large (26- 30 per pound) or mediums SEAFOOD (41-50 per pound), make sure they’re shrimp from North Carolina to Texas. A BUYING GUIDE BLUE CRAB Buy hard-shell and soft- shell crabs fresh, aka alive, CONSIDER THIS: “A full and not foaming at the mouth. Picked crabmeat 91% of seafood Americans prices are skyrocketing due eat comes from abroad,” to labor costs and histori- writes author Paul Green- WHOLE FISH cally low catches. berg in his important new book American Catch, even Look for firm flesh that springs back to the touch, though our local waters bright red gills, and clear often teem with fresh fish eyes, telltale signs of fresh- and shellfish. This sum- ness for fish like pompano mer, demand local. You and red snapper. Bonus: Whole fish costs less per may pay a little more, but pound than fillets. chances are you’ll be FILLETS buying better quality seafood and supporting Fillets of white flaky fish such as flounder (above) local fishermen. and denser black grouper (at left) should be firm to Here’s how it works: the touch. Avoid any fillets At restaurants, ask the chef with an oily sheen or where the seafood comes excessive “gapping” in the flesh, or any stored in from. At the market, develop standing water. a relationship with the fishmonger, and use your senses. Do the fish glisten? Is the ice plentiful? Most importantly, ask to smell everything you buy. Fish should never smell fishy or like ammonia; it should smell briny and clean, just like the sea. —Hunter Lewis

90 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW JUNE 2014 | SOUTHERN LIVING | 91 H I H NEW CROP NEW ERBS A KITCHEN HERBS buying them. See how I plant them in a strawberry pot (at pot right). astrawberry in them Iplant how See them. buying than cheaper is herbs growing What’s more, brushes. basting as totogether use thyme and like rosemary ones hardy tie or chicken of cavity into the them Istuff meats, smoking or I’m when grilling sauces; and butters, herb dressings, salad marinades, to flavor of to add jolts them use and night every outside Igrill cooking. summer to the age of indie ageindie to of the Welcome ways. own their in foodscape modern the to share platforms traditional eschewing are phers photogra and writers wave new of A whole I NDIE FOOD MEDIA FOOD NDIE - grown right in my backyard are the fresh secret to my secret fresh the are my in backyard right grown 92 of Tangierof to Island watermen the from genuine characters, of ahost up serves south.com) South grassroots The media. food | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW A TO Z TO

(authentic Authentic podcast GUIDE

turn, opens up that up opens turn, in that, journal nary producers) aculi in (chefs, and farmers, players the all ments gether, docu and bring communities to communities bring .org) Dish Runaway ana-based Louisi South Queen. Knoxville’s Biscuit hosts dinners to dinners hosts (runawaydish — Pam Lolley Pam HOW-TO - - - - A cookbook. community modern a of soul the with together come tion - inspira their and pes, grits, buttermilk), reci- (tomatoes, pamphlets series of single-topic stackeditions.com) Stack Short in And world. outside to the community berry pot). Weberry pre- the way to the top. wayto the the with good-quality good-quality with fer a 3-gallon one. one. a3-gallon fer Start with aterra- with Start into holes; fill soil soil fill into holes; TIP: holes (aka straw- holes Fill bottom third third bottom Fill herb on the top. the on herb HOW TO Place in full sun. sun. full in Place Add soil to next to next Add soil Water regularly. level. Repeat all all Repeat level. —J.V.C. cotta pot with with pot cotta gently around around gently PLANT PLANT Insert plants plants Insert (short potting soil. potting the roots. the Plant largest largest Plant 3. 3. 2. 1.

, a

STYLING: PADEN REICH; ILLUSTRATION: RYAN KELLY A TO Z GUIDE

The South’s most dynamic urban farm is sowing the seeds for Birmingham’s next generation BY HUNTER LEWIS

THE JONES CATALYST VALLEY TEACHING J FARM J

t Jones Valley vegetables. The evidence who learned how to cook Teaching Farm says it must happen at a healthy dinners in our test A in downtown young age. Students don’t kitchens say they now cook Birmingham, chickens need to be told how or what more as a family. The scratch and strut in their to do. They need to taste it, farm’s assessments reveal coop as rush hour traffic feel it, and experience it.” that students who partici- rumbles down U.S. 31 The South’s most dynam- pate in these programs are nearby. Young persimmon ic urban farm is investing improving in subjects like trees blossom at the edge in one of the South’s most math and science and of the same field where the beleaguered cities by em- learning skills like critical South’s best chefs cook a powering thousands of thinking and creativity. fund-raising dinner at the young students to change The work forecasts a end of every summer. It’s their lives. With vegetables. brighter future for Bir- all too easy to become en- Grant’s team takes the mingham. Jones Valley is a tranced by the ragged beauty farm’s curriculum into a lot like those persimmon of this urban-pastoral handful of Birmingham trees: If you patiently plant, scene, but there’s a more City Schools through Good cultivate, and prune, a meaningful mission under- School Food, a two-year- community will bear fruit foot here on this once-vacant old flagship program for years to come. (To meet lot, one hinted at by local composed of student-run student leader Kenneth elementary school students farmers’ markets, grow- Taylor, turn to page 96.) digging in the dirt today. your-own tutorials, and “Students learn best by cooking classes at Southern doing,” says Grant Brigham, Living and sister magazine Scenes from Jones Valley Teaching Farm, including staff, the farm’s executive direc- Cooking Light. The early Birmingham elementary school tor. “The goal is to get stu- results show promise. Four students, and the student-run

dents to eat more fruits and out of every five families farmers’ markets. CARY NORTON GREENHOUSE, (12); MAN WATERING, CHALKBOARD AND BLACK EYED SUSANS: MICHAEL HANSON

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ON THE STUDENT FARMERS’ MARKET: ON ROOTS: WHAT “I started with the Student Farmers’ Market in fourth “I LEARNED ABOUT grade at Glen Iris Elementary School. I’ve learned about THE LIFE CYCLE OF A good customer service, how to manage a job, and how to PLANT: THE ROOTS, I’VE grow plants and food. Show up on time, be helpful, and THE STEM, AND THE be open to the customers, employees, and coworkers. MAIN PART. THE ROOTS Since we did so good [earning $1,600 the first season], we gave half the money to Oliver Elementary to start their GIVE THE PLANT ALL LEARNED farmers’ market. That’s called paying it forward.” THE FOOD AND WATER TO MAKE IT GROW FROM AND BE HEALTHY. JONES VALLEY I HAVE STRONGER TEACHING ROOTS BECAUSE OF FARM JONES VALLEY.”

BY KENNETH TAYLOR

EDITOR’S NOTE: We met ON Kenneth, a sixth-grader at Rich- VEGETABLES: KITCHEN ard J. Arrington Middle School, “My first favorite is through the farm’s Good School asparagus. My second is Food program two years ago. J The program is designed to okra. My first favorite GADGETS increase access to healthy food fruit is strawberries, and and improve school performance. my second favorite is blackberries.” K A TIME MACHINE ON COMMUNITY: ON JVTF’S “Jones Valley FAMILY CREAMED CORN gives kids courage KITCHEN: MEMORIES to go out into “We’re cooking It was a summertime the community. more as a family now. process my grandmothers Sometimes at these I’m the chef at home. knew well. Corn was gath- city schools, kids I make Parmesan ered on the family farms, don’t have things Tilapia with Ragu. and within hours they had fresh plump cobs in their I entered another The Norpro to do at home kitchens. Both inherited except play video recipe, Shrimp Corn Creamer/ and Veggie Sketti, in wooden corn creamers that Cutter games or doing Michelle Obama’s were worn from years in (amazon.com) the same thing recipe competition. their own mothers’ hands. over and over. It’s really good. I remember their fingers For me, I can go We’re having it this gracefully sliding the corn Saturday night!” down the creamer’s blade home, water my to force the natural corn plants, taste them. milk and crushed kernels When Mom gets into the waiting colored home, I can cook Pyrex bowl. Velvety ON THE FUTURE: CREAMED CORN 1/2 tsp. table salt Tbsp. water, 1 Tbsp. at a time “When I grow up, I want to creamed corn simply can’t them. I can make 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black as needed, during last 15 become an entrepreneur something that’s be replicated with a knife. Keep an eye on the corn as it pepper minutes of cook time.) Stir in and make my own Thankfully, Norpro keeps simmers; it needs to cook only successful business. I thought Minced chives (optional) cream and butter, and cook, about making a business this Southern tradition until it’s tender. If it starts to Cut kernels from cobs to yield stirring occasionally, about 5 in life.” like Jones Valley.” alive with its creamers. dry out and stick to the skillet, 6 cups; discard cobs. Cook minutes or until mixture Even without your grand- add water a little at a time. kernels in a small Dutch oven reaches desired consistency. mother’s tool, creamed JONES VALLEY TEACHING FARM BY THE NUMBERS: over low heat, stirring often, Stir in salt and pepper. Sprinkle corn can be satisfyingly 13 ears fresh corn, husked about 30 minutes or until corn with chives, if desired. 1.7 ACRES IN PRODUCTION IN 2013 | 200 KINDS OF 1,550 POUNDS OF PRODUCE SOLD AT STUDENT MARKETS 1 1 silky, just like hers. /4 to /2 cup heavy cream is tender. (To prevent corn Makes 6 to 8 servings. Hands-on VEGETABLES, FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND HERBS $30,000 WORTH OF PRODUCE SOLD | 10,386 STUDENTS

PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS —Rebecca Lang 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter from drying out, add up to 10 30 min., Total 1 hour 18 INCHES AVERAGE LENGTH OF A YARDLONG BEAN EDUCATED SINCE 2011 | 5,084 TAUGHT IN 2013 ALONE LAUREY GLENN W.

To learn more and support the effort, go to jvtf.org. JUNE 2014 | SOUTHERN LIVING | 97 A TO Z GUIDE

A SOUTHERN CLASSIC LATTICE PIE UNEXPECTED BUT OH-SO RIGHT, a touch of tangy-sweet balsamic vinegar combined with honey, cinnamon, and a pinch of freshly ground black pepper magnifies the sweetness of blueberries. We love this buttery crust, but if time is short, substitute a store-bought one and simply crimp the edges. Go to southernliving.com/lattice to see how we get the lattice look. —Marian Cooper Cairns

HONEY-BALSAMIC- at a time, and process until butter cubes. Arrange BLUEBERRY PIE dough forms a ball and piecrust strips in a L pulls away from sides of lattice design over filling. L CRUST bowl, adding up to 2 Tbsp. Trim excess dough. 3 cups all-purpose flour more water, 1 Tbsp. at a 5. Reroll remaining dough, MARINADE MM 3/4 cup cold butter, time, if necessary. Divide and cut into 6 ( 9- x 1/2-inch) sliced dough in half, and flatten strips. Twist together 2 6 Tbsp. cold vegetable each half into a disk. Wrap strips at a time. Whisk N shortening, sliced THE each disk in plastic wrap, together egg and 1 Tbsp. ENHANCER 1 tsp. kosher salt and chill 2 hours to 2 days. water. Brush a small amount 4 to 6 Tbsp. ice-cold O water 2. Prepare Filling: Place 1 cup of egg mixture around blueberries in a large bowl; edge of pie. Arrange twisted FILLING P 7 cups fresh crush blueberries with strips around edge of pie, MAKE YOUR marinades blueberries a wooden spoon. Stir pressing lightly to adhere. work smarter. This dreamy one 1/4 cup cornstarch cornstarch and vinegar Brush entire pie with for pork doubles as a flavoring Q 2 Tbsp. balsamic into crushed berries until remaining egg mixture. agent and a finishing glaze. vinegar cornstarch dissolves. Stir Freeze 20 minutes or R 1/2 cup sugar sugar, next 5 ingredients, until dough is firm. Just Peachy Marinade 1/3 cup honey and remaining 6 cups 6. Preheat oven to 425°. Whisk together 1/2 cup peach 1 tsp. vanilla extract blueberries into crushed Bake pie on an aluminum S preserves, 1/2 cup olive oil, 1/4 tsp. kosher salt berry mixture. foil-lined baking sheet 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar, 3 1 /4 tsp. ground 3. Unwrap 1 dough disk, and 20 minutes. Reduce oven Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 2 Tbsp. T cinnamon place on a lightly floured temperature to 375°, and coarse-grained Dijon mustard, 1/8 tsp. finely ground surface. Sprinkle with flour. bake 20 more minutes. 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1 tsp. black pepper 1 U Roll dough to /8-inch Cover pie with aluminum black pepper in a small bowl. 2 Tbsp. butter, cut into thickness. Fit dough into a foil to prevent excessive 1/4-inch cubes Place 1 cup marinade and 4 pork greased (with butter) 9-inch browning, and bake 25 to V 1 large egg chops or 2 tenderloins in a large deep-dish pie plate. Repeat 30 more minutes (65 to 70 zip-top plastic freezer bag. Seal; 1. Prepare Crust: Process rolling procedure with minutes total) or until crust turn to coat. Reserve remaining first 4 ingredients in a food remaining dough disk; is golden and filling bubbles marinade. Chill 2 to 4 hours. processor until mixture cut dough into 12 to 14 in center. Remove from Remove pork; discard used 1 X resembles coarse meal. ( /2-inch-wide) strips. (You baking sheet to a wire rack; marinade. Sprinkle pork with With processor running, will have dough left over.) cool 1 hour before serving. salt and pepper. Grill as desired; gradually add 4 Tbsp. 4. Pour blueberry mixture Makes 8 servings. Hands-on 40 baste with reserved marinade Y PROP STYLING: HEATHER CHADDUCK HILLEGAS; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; RECIPE BY JULIE GRIMES ice-cold water, 1 Tbsp. into piecrust, and dot with min.; Total 5 hours, 5 min. during last 5 minutes. Makes 1 1/2 cups. Hands-on 10 min.; Z Total 10 min., not including pork

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THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT 2. Pour oil to a depth of 2 inches into a large Dutch oven; heat to 350°. Fry okra, in batches, 2 to 3 minutes or until brown and crisp, turning once. Remove okra, using a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels. Add salt and pepper to taste; serve. NORTH Makes 4 to 6 servings. Hands-on CAROLINA’S 40 min., Total 40 min. THE SKILLET- CHEF ROASTED OKRA VIVIAN AND SHRIMP Adapted from Virginia OKRA Willis’ latest book, Okra, HOWARD published by The University OKRA THRIVES IN of North Carolina Press, Small-town girl moves to the scorching heat of humid this fast sauté is great over New York City, learns to cook, summers, soaring skyward in grits or a bed of arugula. then moves home to Kinston its semitropical glory. Originally to open Chef & the Farmer. from Africa, it is as overtly 1/2 lb. fresh okra, halved Fast-forward eight years later. Southern as sweet tea and lengthwise Her PBS show, A Chef’s Life, kudzu. Luckily for us, we have 3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided wins a Peabody Award, the inside secret when it comes 1 pt. grape tomatoes shining a light on her rural to the delectable pods—no other people embrace okra as 1 lb. peeled, large raw region. We asked Vivian to shrimp, deveined Southerners do. —Virginia Willis talk about how the show has 1/2 tsp. dried crushed N changed her life.—H.L. red pepper SMASHED FRIED 3 garlic cloves, minced OKRA 1 tsp. kosher salt “I FEEL A GREAT O responsibility to eastern What a revelation! Use a meat 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper North Carolina now. We mallet to smash okra and 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh P come from an area where create more surface area for flat-leaf parsley we’re always apologizing crispy-brown goodness. for being from here. Try this at home. Sauté okra in 1 Tbsp. hot Q Because the series is so olive oil in a large cast-iron popular, people here have 1 lb. fresh okra skillet over medium-high R a little pep in their step. 1 1/2 cups buttermilk heat 4 to 5 minutes or until 2 cups fine yellow lightly browned. Transfer They say, ‘You made me S remember the way my cornmeal okra to a large bowl. Add grandmother made bis- Kosher salt and tomatoes and 1 Tbsp. oil to freshly ground skillet; sauté 3 minutes or cuits or strawberry pre- black pepper T until skins begin to burst. serves.’ Older folks in our Canola oil Transfer tomatoes to bowl community teach me how 1. Use a meat mallet to with okra. Add shrimp and U to make something very smash okra, starting at remaining 1 Tbsp. oil to simple. One of the things tip of pod and working skillet; sprinkle shrimp with V I like about the show and toward stem end. Place red pepper. Sauté 2 to 3 dislike about modern buttermilk in a shallow minutes or just until shrimp media in general is that dish, and place cornmeal turn pink. Add garlic; sauté [our culture is] very young- in another shallow dish. 30 seconds. Stir in okra person-new-ideas driven, Stir desired amount of salt mixture, and sauté 1 to 2 X and I don’t think people and pepper into buttermilk minutes or until hot. Stir in call on the wisdom of older and cornmeal. Dip okra in salt, pepper, and parsley. Y folks very much. To learn buttermilk; dredge in cornmeal, shaking off excess. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Hands-on from them and share PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; PORTRAIT: ROBBIE CAPONETTO 30 min., Total 30 min. Z has been wonderful.”

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A SPECIAL DELIVERY PEACH TRUCK

I SPOTTED THE ’64 Jeep Gladiator-turned-farmers’- market-on-wheels in a Nashville parking lot last summer. The truck’s owners, Stephen and Jessica Rose, were selling just one thing: peaches. But not just any peaches. These were Georgia peaches from Pearson Farm in—get this— Peach County, and they P tasted just as amazing as the story of how Stephen and Jessica have solved Nashville’s “peach prob- lem.” Stephen grew up in Peach County where his aunt and uncle run an orchard, and he assumed that every peach was as spectacular as the ones he ate there. But when he moved north to Tennessee in 2009, he tasted the local fruit and realized not MACERATED PEACHES also a flavorful accompaniment Pinch of kosher salt all peaches were created WITH ANCHO- to grilled meats. 2 tsp. lime zest equal. So, Stephen and CINNAMON SUGAR 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Jessica began trucking 2 lb. fresh peaches, Georgia’s finest into the Spoon this incredibly versatile 2 Tbsp. sugar unpeeled and quartered area, and now they’re and saucy condiment over 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil Stir together first 9 ingredients available to the masses via vanilla ice cream for an easy 1 Tbsp. thinly sliced in a large bowl. Add peaches; the couple’s Farm to Porch summer dessert. Or use it fresh mint toss gently to coat. Cover and program. Need peaches? as a topper for pound cake 2 tsp. ground cinnamon chill 1 hour. 1 Go to thepeachtruck.com. or oatmeal or as the filling for 1 /2 tsp. ancho chile powder Makes 6 to 8 servings. Hands-on

—Robby Melvin a cobbler or tart. Bonus: It’s 1 tsp. honey 15 min.; Total 1 hour, 15 min. PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS

102 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW A TO Z GUIDE

A THE CULTURE OF A BIRTHRIGHT THE BEST 65 MILES OF “Q” EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA BOASTS THE HIGHEST DENSITY OF GREAT BARBECUE JOINTS OF ANY B SMOKE AND FIRE PLACE WE KNOW. THIS SUMMER, BUCKLE UP FOR OUR ULTIMATE ’CUE CRAWL Nothing fires up a Southern crowd like barbecue. C From a modern-day pitmaster to the ultimate whole hog road trip THE TAR HEEL STATE’S flat, fertile D to a succulent smoked chicken recipe, we salute the coastal plain frames the most sacred sweep of meat of the matter with an ode to “Q” BY PHILIP MALKUS barbecue holy land in the South. Eastern North Carolina is whole hog country. In fragrant E clouds of smoke and steam, the region’s best pitmasters painstakingly cleave the meat from F slow-cooked, wood-scented pigs. The region’s PITMAS time-honored sauce is vinegar-based and THE TER G administered with a light hand. Discover the

AARON singular spin each joint puts on its sublime chopped pork and distinctive sides by making H FRANKLIN your own scrumptious pilgrimage.

IN 2009 Aaron Franklin be- gan serving barbecue out of a trailer in East Austin, Texas. In a region already intimate with exalted smoked meats, Aaron’s brisket proved so transcendent that folks prac- tically started speaking in tongues. Two years later, Aaron moved into a funky building near the original site, and the lines grew— all the way down the block. Now, the two-hour-plus wait equates to a pilgrimage. His 4 MORRIS 5 BUM’S 6 SKYLIGHT INN brisket is the silkiest possible BARBEQUE RESTAURANT Ayden, NC expression of carnivorous Hookerton, NC Ayden, NC You can’t miss the build- Arrive at this joint— Less than a mile from ing with a replica of the Q rapture, but he also excels in open only on Satur- Skylight Inn, this charmer United States Capitol Q velvety pulled pork. Aaron day—by 1 p.m., lest the with turquoise booths dome atop its roof. Sam- has appeared as a judge on locals clean out the shows how different uel Jones and his family Destination America’s BBQ place first. Seek this one whole hog ’cue can be, fold a goodly amount out for the exquisite even in the same town. of crispy bronzed skin Pitmasters series, will debut harmony among its The Dennis family chops into the unctuous pork his own instructional PBS finely tuned dishes, pork more coarsely and (minced so vigorously show early next year, and is with frilly, freshly made mixes in less skin for a they replace the wooden writing his first book. But coleslaw balancing leaner, more velvety re- chopping block every Aaron is no flash-in-the-pan the piquant pork. sult. bumsrestaurant.com year). skylightinnbbq.com morrisbarbeque.com attention hog. Those trailing 1 GRADY’S 2 WILBER’S lines? So worth it. And BARBECUE BARBECUE 3 JACK COBB AND behind the service counter, Dudley, NC Goldsboro, NC SON BARBECUE Aaron is ceaselessly friendly Steve Grady buys his Wilber’s basks in its PLACE, Farmville, NC to famished customers, hogs from a producer a status as a community The only seating at this making it impossible not to mile down the road and institution since 1962. Wednesday/Friday/Sat- sleeps only a few hours Beachgoers make it a urday spot is a screened like the guy. His mug may a night while tending habitual stop, as do hut with picnic tables. be known across the land, his brick pits solo. His devotees of the wood- Stop for the pork sand- yet he still shows up at 2 a.m. dedication yields smoky smoked pork (whose wich, topped with mus- to tend the day’s fires—just Pitmaster Aaron Franklin pork that melts on sauce thrums with tardy slaw, and soulful tends the smokers the tongue, amped up extra zing), oblong hush veggies, such as stewed another reason why Aaron at Franklin Barbecue by the region’s spiciest puppies, and crispy cabbage and vinegar-

is the new face of BBQ. in Austin, Texas. ROBBIE CAPONETTO; ILLUSTRATIONS: ERIC HANSON sauce, rife with chile fried chicken thighs. tinged potatoes. franklinbarbecue.com flakes. 919/735-7243 wilbersbarbecue.com 252/753-5128

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THE TOOL

SMOKED CHICKEN 6 Tbsp. olive oil 1. Whisk together first 12 in a 13- x 9-inch disposable WITH FRESH 1/4 cup peanut oil ingredients. Pour mixture into aluminum foil pan. Pour KAMADO HERB MARINADE 1/4 cup chopped fresh a 1-gal. zip-top plastic freezer marinade over chicken. flat-leaf parsley bag; add chicken. Seal Sprinkle hickory chips over GRILLS “Instead of a sauce, [this reci- 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh bag, and turn to coat. Chill hot coals. Place pan with pe] features a tasty marinade basil chicken 8 to 12 hours. chicken on unlit side of grill. Forget the Harley. Forget the of fresh herbs and bright lem- 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano 2. Pile hot coals on 1 side 4. Grill, covered with grill F-150. The rig we want for on juice,” writes pitmaster 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice of grill, leaving other side lid and maintaining internal Father’s Day is a kamado-style grill. The secret behind smoky Chris Lilly, in Fire & Smoke. 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard empty. Let grill heat up, temperature at 300°, 2 hours “By cooking the chicken in a ribs, brag-worthy briskets, and 4 tsp. dark brown sugar covered with grill lid, 10 or until a meat thermometer pitmaster-perfect pork shoul- THE pan instead of directly on the MUST-HAVE 4 tsp. Worcestershire minutes or until internal inserted in thickest portion ders, these dynamic ceramic grill grate, the meat gets extra 1 garlic clove, minced temperature reaches 300°. registers 175°. Spoon pan cylinders on steroids have been BBQ BOOK protection from drying out.” 2 tsp. table salt (Go to southernliving.com/ drippings over chicken. known to induce OCD, aka 1/2 tsp. black pepper bbqchicken for gas grill Obsessive Ceramic Disorder, in In brand-new Fire & Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 30 min.; hard-core backyard BBQ enthu- 1 (3- to 3 1/2-lb.) whole instructions.) Total 10 hours, 30 min. Smoke (Clarkson Potter), chicken, halved siasts. Made for grilling, smok- Memphis in May 3. Place chicken, skin-side up, 1 cup hickory chips ing, roasting, or baking over high multi-champion Chris or low charcoal heat, their smart Lilly of Big Bob Gibson design takes inspiration from Bar-B-Q lays down the the ceramic ovens that enter- pitmaster gospel for prising GIs brought home from backyard aficionados. Japan after World War II. Now, We’re loving his recipe for Georgia is world HQ for brands smoked chicken (at right). like Grill Dome (pictured at left), Big Green Egg, Primo, and Kamado Joe. —H.L.

P-&-CO THE U MER

GRILL GEORGIA GIVEAWAY! BARBECUE Go to southernliving .com/grill to enter for a chance to win this CONSIDER Georgia the Grill Dome great melting pot of ’cue. It Infinity Series eludes a fixed identity and has kamado. emerged as an enthralling nexus of styles. Places like Grand Champion BBQ (gcbbq.net) Q outside Atlanta and Southern Q Soul Barbeque (southernsoul THE bbq.com) on St. Simons Island PERFECT Take a drive with Georgia poet Betty Gwen Barlow in this R specialize in finessed versions PIT STOP of several smoked meats: pork excerpt from her poem The Gift: shoulder, ribs, and beef brisket. Georgia joints often offer many Give me the gift of time regional sauces. Swallow at the to travel the byways Hollow (swallowatthehollow and back roads .com) in Roswell has three: North Carolina vinegar, South And fresh eyes to see Carolina mustard, and a sweet fat, contented cows Kansas City tomato. The state’s grazing in green lush pastures lack of convention allows it to be an incubator for new ’cue fron- of sweet sweet clover tiers. At Atlanta’s Heirloom Mar- And the privilege to stop ket BBQ (heirloommarketbbq ROADSIDE .com), Southerner Cody Taylor where and when I please and Korean pop star Jiyeon Lee at any roadside stand merge backgrounds with dishes STANDS for big Vidalia onions like chile-marinated pulled pork and ripe Elberta peaches with kimchi slaw. Unorthodox? PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; DANIEL BOY: HURST/GETTY Yes. Delectable? Absolutely.

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THE QUENCHER SIMPLE SYRUPS These inventive seasonal tinctures—crafted for you to keep in the refrigerator all summer long—give iced tea or cocktails an extra-fresh zing. Now ain’t that sweet?

4

2

1 3

1 ORANGE- 2 LAVENDER-MINT 3 STRAWBERRY- 4 PINEAPPLE-BASIL S TARRAGON SYRUP SYRUP CHILE SYRUP SYRUP Bring 2 cups sugar, 1 cup fresh Bring 2 cups sugar, 2 cups water, Bring 2 cups sugar, 2 cups water, Bring 2 cups sugar, 1 cup pine- orange juice, 1 cup water, and 1 cup loosely packed fresh 1 cup fresh sliced strawberries, apple juice, and 1 cup water to 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, and 1 Tbsp. dried and 1/4 tsp. dried crushed red a boil in a medium saucepan, tarragon leaves to a boil in a lavender buds to a boil in a pepper to a boil in a medium stirring just until sugar dis- medium saucepan over medi- medium saucepan over medi- saucepan over medium-high solves. Boil 2 minutes. (Do not um-high heat, stirring just until um-high heat, stirring just until heat, stirring just until sugar stir.) Remove from heat. Add 1 sugar dissolves. Boil 2 minutes. sugar dissolves. Boil 2 minutes. dissolves. Boil 2 minutes. (Do cup firmly packed basil leaves, (Do not stir.) Remove from heat. (Do not stir.) Remove from heat. not stir.) Remove from heat. and steep 10 minutes. Press Press through a wire-mesh Press through a wire-mesh Press through a wire-mesh through a wire-mesh strainer strainer into a bowl, using back strainer into a bowl, using back strainer into a bowl, using back into a bowl, using back of a of a spoon to squeeze out of a spoon to squeeze out of a spoon to squeeze out spoon to squeeze out liquid; liquid; discard solids. Cool liquid; discard solids. Cool liquid; discard solids. Cool discard solids. Cool completely completely (about 30 minutes). completely (about 30 minutes). completely (about 30 minutes). (about 20 minutes). Transfer Transfer to a jar; cover and Transfer to a jar; cover and Transfer to a jar; cover and to a jar; cover and refrigerate refrigerate up to 3 months. refrigerate up to 3 months. refrigerate up to 3 months. up to 3 months. Makes 2 1/2 cups. Hands-on 10 min., Makes 2 1/2 cups. Hands-on 10 min., Makes 2 1/2 cups. Hands-on 15 min., Makes 2 1/2 cups. Hands-on 10 min.,

Total 40 min. Total 40 min. Total 45 min. Total 40 min. PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; RECIPES BY ROBBY MELVIN

108 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW A TO Z GUIDE A TO Z GUIDE

1. The Tomatoes: 2. The Bread: 3. The Greenery: 4. The Bacon: OVER-THE-TOP 1. Brush both sides of Beefsteaks have an Whether you go Totally necessary? Don’t be a hog and TOMATO bread slices lightly with intensely robust fla- with sourdough or No. But peppery let bacon steal the SANDWICH melted butter. Cook bread vor, while heirloom a hearty, seeded, arugula and soft, tomato show, but 8 artisan sourdough slices in a large skillet over yellow tomatoes nutty artisanal loaf, floral herbs like do cook it perfectly. or multigrain bread medium-high heat 1 to 2 bring a less acidic, slice it thick, smear basil and oregano Done right, thick- slices minutes on each side or slightly sweet com- with butter, and add kicky, fresh cut bacon adds a 1/2 cup butter, melted until toasted. ponent to the party. toast or cook on flavor, while a porcine pop of salt 1 3/4 lb. ripe beefsteak or 2. Cut tomatoes into Want even juicier a griddle. The touch of fresh and fat and just heirloom tomatoes 1/4-inch-thick slices, and (about 5 medium) tomatoes? Slice outside will stay lemon juice brings enough crunchy place in a single layer on a 1 and season them crunchy, and the chew to contrast /2 cup torn fresh basil wire rack in a jelly-roll pan. out the acidity in leaves with salt 10 minutes inside will yield just the hot mess of Sprinkle generously with the tomatoes. 2 Tbsp. fresh oregano before assembling enough to absorb everything else. leaves salt and pepper, and let TOMATO to coax out their the commingling of stand 10 minutes. 3 Tbsp. extra virgin juices. tomato and mayo . olive oil, divided 3. Process basil, oregano, 1 THE TASTE OF /2 cup mayonnaise and 2 Tbsp. oil in a food SUMMER 4 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon processor or mini chopper SANDWICH juice, divided until finely ground. Add Whether eaten at a 3 cups loosely packed mayonnaise and 1 Tbsp. fresh arugula lemon juice to processor; white tablecloth spot or 8 thick bacon slices, pulse until smooth. cooked over the kitchen sink, this is 4. Stir together remaining the sandwich we wait 1 Tbsp. oil and 1 1/2 tsp. A for all year. Here’s how to lemon juice in a medium GUIDE build an even better one. bowl; add arugula, and toss to coat. Spread mayonnaise mixture on 1 side of each bread slice. Davey Dempsey, a Layer 4 bread slices with fourth-generation farmer, tomato slices, arugula has been hosting the public mixture, and 2 bacon slices. for nearly 40 years at Top with remaining 4 bread Dempsey U-Pick Farm in slices, mayonnaise-side St. Helena Island, South down. Carolina (dempseyfarms Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 20 min., Total 30 min. upick.com). Here are his tips for picking like a pro:

DON’T WEAR YOUR SUNDAY - BEST. Unless you want to U PICK christen your finery with dirt and fruit juice. Do WANT TO SAVE money wear a hat and sunscreen. on in-season produce, get CALL AHEAD. The farmer outside, and support local will tell you the conditions T business? Head on over to T of the field and fruit. Wet a U-Pick farm! We know 5. The Salt and produce is prone to bruis- picking is hard work, Pepper: ing and bursting; give the U but just like from-scratch Season as you fields a day or two to dry build the sandwich pie dough and slow- after heavy rain. to elevate the flavor smoked barbecue, the of every layer. things that take some effort BE THE EARLY BIRD. Beat Choose a flaky sea are also the most satisfying. the heat and bring home salt for a spark of The South boasts more the cream of the day’s crop. crunch, and by all U-Pick farms than Junior COME HUNGRY. Nothing means, folks, make Leagues, so this summer beats gobbling up juicy, sure your pepper try your hand at every- sun-warmed peaches, one is freshly ground. thing from blueberries and right after the other.

PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; BLUEBERRIES: ISTOCK bell peppers to cantaloupes and cucumbers. —Whitney Wright

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in center-stage glory. And Some of our best upscale this isn’t a reaction to any restaurants reimagine the kind of health craze: It’s vegetable plate in bold new really about the ingredi- visual directions. At Husk ents’ deliciousness. Nashville (husknashville Welcome to the vegetable .com), chef-partner Sean renaissance. Brock and his team present At Atlanta’s Miller “A Sampling of Summer Union (millerunion.com), Vegetables” on a platter executive chef Steven Sat- carved from a tree trunk. terfield leads the charge Each dish looks like edible with a plate whose humble sculpture: charred carrots A appearance—four ever- dappled with their own RENAISSANCE changing dishes mounded leafy tops, fried cauliflower into quadrants like an sweetened by seared petals edible pie chart—belies its of baby onions, butter sophisticated preparation. beans dotted with purple He considers contrasts in and white garlic flowers. color, flavor, and texture: A A hearty side bowl of grits succotash of corn and field in tomato broth with a peas bound with a splash of preserved egg ensures cream may sidle up to okra you leave the table full. fried to order in a sheer It’s certainly not easy VEGETABLE PLATES cornmeal crust. To cut the to finish the cornucopia VEGETABLE richness, he’ll also include, bursting from a handsome PLATES 2.0 OF THE SOUTH say, pickled beets punched handled pan at Atlanta’s up with ginger or sautéed Restaurant Eugene Clockwise, from top left: Forget steam table cookery. From delicate zucchini tossed in a vinai- (restauranteugene.com). A Miller Union in Atlanta; bites to boldly composed plates, it’s a Atlanta’s Restaurant Eugene; grette with garlic and just- dozen or more individually Bottega in Birmingham; vegetable revolution. BY PHILIP MALKUS picked mint. Bottega prepared vegetables—from Husk in Nashville (bottegarestaurant.com), seared okra to delicate one of Southern food icon stewed cherry tomatoes to LIKE PULLED PORK kitchen cooked to pap? Frank Stitt’s destination a tempura squash blossom and fried chicken, the veg- Well, we were still proud eateries in Birmingham, tinted mauve from beet etable plate is embedded in of ourselves for eating similarly elevates a seem- juice—huddle together and the South’s culinary DNA. our veggies. ingly unassuming plate. flaunt the kitchen’s techni- In times when meat was But now, inspired by the The Thursday night special cal prowess. scarce, savvy cooks tended surging interest in farm- in Bottega’s café is a mon- Obviously, Restaurant fertile patches behind their ing, a hotbed of forward- tage of vegetables—this Eugene and the other res- homes to nourish their looking chefs is retooling time of year expect sum- taurants still serve plenty families with seasonal the (ahem) garden-variety mer squash, creamed corn, of meat. Their next-gen bounty. The practice is vegetable plate. In the same crisp-tender green beans vegetable plates, though, budding once again, as the way our kitchen masters perked with sweet onion, enlighten us to the ways earthen jewels at flourish- embraced snout-to-tail, and braised collards—so that the South’s agrarian ing green markets entice us whole-animal cookery over farm-fresh, the sunshine abundance can star in to cultivate our own back- the last decade, they’re still practically radiates off modern meals. We’ll never yards. And the baseline forging close relationships of them. The finishing give up on pork, but we definition of the vegetable with local growers and touch: a wedge of jalapeño can concede that produce— V plate has started to shift. It composing symphonies of cornbread baked by the locally farmed, dazzlingly V once conjured the sprawl- produce that show off the restaurant’s beloved pastry prepared—might pull ing steam tables at our region’s year-round harvests chef, Dolester Miles. focus now and again. meat ’n’ threes, where counter staff waited as we studied the daily selection: perhaps turnip greens or A HOTBED OF FORWARD-LOOKING collards, fried green toma- toes or crispy okra. And CHEFS IS RETOOLING THE (AHEM)

if these regional staples ROBBIE CAPONETTO sometimes came out of the GARDEN-VARIETY VEGETABLE PLATE.

112 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW JUNE 2014 | SOUTHERN LIVING | 113 A TO Z GUIDE

THE SOUTHERN LIVING VEGETABLE PLATE

PARSLIED NEW Sprinkle with parsley; Dutch oven over medium- BUTTERY LADY PEAS serve hot. high heat 4 minutes or until POTATOES 2 cups fresh lady peas Makes 4 to 6 servings. Hands-on crisp-tender. Plunge beans 2 Tbsp. butter 1/4 yellow onion 20 min., Total 45 min. into ice water to stop cooking 2 Tbsp. canola oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed process. Drain; pat dry. 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 1 tsp. kosher salt GREEN BEANS AND 2. Sprinkle onion wedges 2 1/2 cups milk 6 fresh thyme sprigs CHARRED ONIONS with salt and pepper, and 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon 4 fresh flat-leaf parsley juice 1 lb. fresh green beans, cook in 1 Tbsp. hot olive oil in sprigs trimmed 1/2 tsp. garlic powder a large cast-iron skillet over Kitchen string 1 large red onion, cut 1/4 tsp. sugar medium-high heat 3 minutes 2 Tbsp. butter into 4 wedges Salt and black pepper on each side or until charred 3 green onions, sliced Salt and black pepper 2 lb. new potatoes, and tender. Remove onions 3 Tbsp. coarsely quartered, boiled until 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided from skillet; wipe skillet clean. chopped fresh basil tender and drained 1 garlic clove, minced 3. Cook garlic in remaining leaves 1/4 cup loosely packed 6 fresh thyme sprigs 1 Tbsp. oil in skillet over Black pepper fresh flat-leaf parsley, 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar medium heat 30 seconds or chopped 1. Bring first 4 ingredients and 1 Tbsp. butter until fragrant. Add beans and 1 qt. water to a boil in a large Melt butter with oil in a 1/4 cup loosely packed thyme, and cook, stirring fresh flat-leaf parsley, saucepan over high heat. Tie medium skillet over occasionally, 3 minutes or chopped together thyme and parsley medium-high heat. Whisk in until beans are slightly 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced with kitchen string. Reduce flour, and cook, whisking charred. Stir in vinegar, next fresh chives heat to low; add herb bundle, constantly, 1 minute. Whisk in 3 ingredients, and onion 1. Cook beans in boiling and simmer, stirring milk and next 3 ingredients, wedges; toss to coat. Remove salted water to cover in a occasionally, 25 to 30 and cook, whisking constantly, from heat; sprinkle with minutes or until peas are just 5 minutes or until mixture salt and pepper. Serve hot. tender. Drain peas, reserving thickens. Add salt and Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 30 min., 1/4 cup cooking liquid. pepper to taste. Pour over Total 30 min. 2. Melt butter in a medium potatoes; toss to coat. skillet over medium heat. Stir in peas and reserved cooking liquid; cook 2 minutes. Discard herb bundle and onion wedge. Stir in green onions and basil. Add pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 30 min., Total 55 min.

S

Round out your veggie plate with Marinated Tomatoes (recipe, page 118). PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; RECIPES BY ROBBY MELVIN

114 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW THE WONDERS OF WHITE

A N EXALTATION

GRAVY IS WHAT we call that happy, inevitable mingling of sauce and drippings at the end of a meal. There is no single recipe for it, and there is no more perfect medium in this world than white bread for sopping up that gravy so indestructibly. Same you’ve just devoured, and soy lecithin or the azodi- is a fast-fading memory, a goes for bacon grease, stuck without a single slice carbonamide that produces time warp to the days when tomato juice, and mayon- of white in your health- such a glutinous miracle. you were knee-high and naise. You know what I’m conscious household, you Actually, let’s not even go spoon-fed and your pim- talking about. Have you know the futility of such a there. To get too deep into iento cheese sandwich was ever tried sopping up those substitution. Your favorite ingredients would be to still resolutely stuck to the resulting juices with wheat barbecue joint probably invite the cynicism of nutri- roof of your mouth well S bread? Have you ever tried has this figured out. At tion. And this isn’t about into naptime and you sopping up anything with Cozy Corner in Memphis, that. Last I checked, bacon didn’t know how happy wheat bread? If you’re a sad the full rack comes with and mayo weren’t winning that would make you feel to sucker like me, still jones- four untoasted slices. I any beauty contests either. remember. —John M. Martin ing for the sweet and don’t know if it’s the sodium Because more than a filler greasy goodness of what stearoyl lactylate or the or absorbent, white bread

A TREND The South is no stranger to small-batch spirits. Moonshiners were microdistilling long before such a word existed. But the landscape of legal hooch has changed dramatically. According to the Ameri- can Distilling Institute, the number of craft distilleries is growing by 30% each year. Southern makers from Troy & Sons (heirloom corn whiskey) and Cathead (vodka and gin) to Richland Rum and High Wire Distilling Co. (sugarcane rum) are just a few of the folks keeping us in good spirits. —J.V.C. PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; JUG: ISTOCK

116 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW A TO Z GUIDE

FIVE TIPS FOR PACKING A COOLER

1. Freeze meats ahead of time in marinades. They’ll help your cooler stay cold longer and will be ready to grill when thawed. 2. Pack all foods in air- tight bags or sealed plastic YETI containers to prevent cross-contamination. 3. Prechill your drinks COOLER before placing them in the cooler to COOLER preserve ice. THE 4. For long trips, CULT OBJECT GIVEAWAY! bring one cooler Go to southernliving for your food and .com/cooler and enter another for drinks for a chance to win. so you can reach for a cold drink anytime. ANGLERS, HUNTERS, power (they’ll hold ice on a certified 5. Block ice lasts and cold drink connois- boat or at a tailgate during them bear- longer than cubed. Make seurs swear by Austin, scorching hot days) as well proof). Hey, if your own block by freezing Texas-based Yeti Coolers, as their legendary durabil- you’re gonna buy a cooler, water in doubled 1-gallon the marvels of design cov- ity (the USDA’s Interagency might as well buy a grizzly freezer bags. eted for their insulating Grizzly Bear Committee stopper. —H.L.

AND TWO to extend over sides; lightly 2. Bake at 350° for 18 to 20 COOLER-PERFECT grease foil with cooking spray. minutes or until a wooden pick TREATS Microwave butter and inserted in center comes out chocolate in a large micro- with a few moist crumbs. Cool CHEWY BROWNIES wave-safe bowl at HIGH 1 1/2 to completely on a wire rack. Lift 2 minutes or just until melted brownies from pan, using foil This thin brownie makes killer and smooth, stirring every 30 as handles. Remove foil; cut ice-cream sandwiches. They seconds. Whisk in sugar. Add into 24 squares. also freeze well in a zip-top eggs, 1 at a time, whisking Makes 12 servings. Hands-on 20 min.; 1 (1-oz.) package fresh Total 1 hour, 10 min. S freezer bag and will slip into a just until blended after each basil, torn small space in your cooler. addition. Whisk in flour 1/2 tsp. black pepper and next 3 ingredients. Pour Pinch of dried red Vegetable cooking spray mixture into prepared pan. MARINATED pepper flakes 3/4 cup butter TOMATOES Toss together first 2 ingredients 1 (4-oz.) bittersweet dark This condiment travels well in a large glass bowl; let stand chocolate baking bar and is perfect for spooning 30 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté (60% cacao), chopped over grilled fish, chicken, or shallot and garlic in hot oil in a 1 1/4 cups sugar medium saucepan over 2 large eggs steak, or tossing with pasta. medium heat 6 minutes. 1 cup all-purpose flour 8 cups halved assorted Remove from heat, and stir in 1 tsp. vanilla extract grape tomatoes thyme. Cool completely. Toss 1/4 tsp. baking powder 1/4 cup kosher salt together vinegar, next 3 1/8 tsp. salt 1 large shallot, sliced ingredients, tomato mixture, 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 4 garlic cloves, sliced and shallot mixture. Serve, or bottom and sides of a 15- 1 1/2 cups olive oil cover and refrigerate up to x 10-inch jelly-roll pan 14 fresh thyme sprigs 2 weeks. with aluminum foil, 1/3 cup white wine Makes 9 cups. Hands-on 30 min.,

allowing 2 to 3 inches vinegar Total 50 min. PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; RECIPES BY VANESSA MCNEIL ROCCHIO

118 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW ZUCCHINI

A N APPRECIATION

ZUCCHINI IS the Rodney Dangerfield of summer vegeta- bles: “No respect!” Give this underappreciated vegetable its due with two fresh new recipes.

BAKED ZUCCHINI CHIPS Serve these crispy baked chips as a side or an app.

1/2 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) 1/4 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves 1/4 tsp. kosher salt 1/4 cup finely grated Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 20 min., Parmesan cheese Total 50 min. 1/2 lb. zucchini, cut into S 1/4-inch-thick rounds ZUCCHINI-CARROT 1 Tbsp. olive oil SALAD WITH Vegetable cooking spray CATALINA DRESSING Preheat oven to 450°. Process Dress thinly sliced vegetables Kosher salt and freshly with French fried onions. ground black pepper first 3 ingredients in a food with our fresh take on catalina Makes 4 servings. Hands-on 15 min.; processor 10 to 15 seconds or 1/2 cup French fried onions Total 40 min., including dressing dressing—inspired by two until finely ground. Stir Cut zucchini lengthwise into Birmingham chefs, Wil Drake together breadcrumb mixture 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick slices. Stack and Roscoe Hall—and garnish and cheese in a medium bowl. 2 or 3 slices on a cutting board, CATALINA DRESSING with any fresh herbs you like. Toss zucchini rounds with oil. and cut lengthwise into thin Whisk together 1/2 cup olive oil, Dredge zucchini, 1 round at strips. Repeat with remaining 1/4 cup sugar, 1/4 cup ketchup, time, in breadcrumb mixture, 1 lb. zucchini zucchini. Toss together 2 cups matchstick carrots 1/4 cup red wine vinegar, 1/4 pressing gently to adhere. Place zucchini, carrots, and desired 1 2 1/2 cup Catalina Dressing cup grated sweet onion, / tsp. rounds in a single layer in a amount of dressing; let stand 1 1 paprika, /2 tsp. Worcester- jelly-roll pan coated with /4 cup firmly packed fresh 20 minutes, tossing occasion- mint leaves, coarsely shire sauce, 1/2 tsp. hot sauce, cooking spray. Bake 30 minutes chopped ally. Sprinkle mint and chives and salt and pepper to taste. or until browned and crisp. 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh over zucchini mixture, and add Makes 1 1/2 cups. Hands-on 5 min.,

Serve hot. chives salt and pepper to taste. Top Total 5 min. PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGETT MILLER; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS; RECIPES BY ROBBY MELVIN

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