Southernfoodnow for More Info, See Page 8
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#SouthernFoodNow For more info, see page 8. CHRIS ELLENBOGEN; ILLUSTRATION: CARSTENSEN PAUL A TO Z GUIDE along with stock from his A own garden at Asheville’s YOU DON’T NEED A BACK 40 Market Place Restaurant. AND COMMERCIAL KITCHEN TO “I watched my grandmoth- er do this for years, with EAT FRESH; YOUR BACKYARD a lot of love for her family A RETURN TO and respect for the land,” AND STOVE WILL DO. OUR ROOTS he says. You don’t need a back 40 and commercial kitchen to eat fresh; your backyard and stove will do. Home gardeners crave simpler recipes, while plant breed- ers have responded to the demand for small-space gardening with more con- tainer varieties than ever before. You can grow car- rots in a bucket, potatoes in a barrel. Even on a small scale, “it is about control AGRICULTURAL over some aspect of one’s life during uncertain times,” says Hank Will, RENAISSANCE a Master Gardener and editor-in-chief of the rural How the small farm, back-to-the land, life know-how magazine edible garden movement is reshaping GRIT. “We want to know where the food came from, the way we eat BY JAMIE COLE and that it was produced with our own health and tephen and Dawn His daughters sport muck well-being—and not blind BEER Robertson were boots and wash eggs to profit—in mind,” he says. computer geeks in earn allowance. Dawn has The “back-to-landers” S A another life. Stephen was a a kitchen garden and bar- of the past decade are now software engineer. Dawn ters meat for vegetables. settled in that ideal, that CRAFT REVOLUTION was a farm kid from way “We go to the grocery store life. From downtown to the back, and though her for some things,” Stephen exurbs, city slickers catch father had gifted her an begins; then Dawn finishes: on by maintaining rooftop acre and helped the couple “But not a whole lot in the gardens and urban farms, NOT SO LONG AGO , the build a house, they had a summertime.” while chefs continue predictable pilsner prevailed longing for land. The Robertsons made to ride the crest of the in Dixie. Red-and-white cans Today, Stephen’s only their move during a rural unstoppable farm-to-table bobbed in our coolers. We lived commute is a tractor ride renaissance. At the turn movement. It all comes the High Life at tailgates. But across East Fork Farm, a of the 21st century, popula- together in programs like now you’ll find us cracking open pastoral 40-acre valley in tions in rural counties— Outstanding in the Field— a different sort of brew. After many grassroots efforts to the mountains of Madison especially across the South farm tours that set tables revise laws governing beer County, North Carolina, and on both coasts—began for guests right in the pas- production, the South is now a that the couple found after to grow for the first time ture. When the Robertsons veritable hop heaven and craft obsessing over real estate since manufacturing drew hosted one such dinner, beer destination with the high- ads. After seven years of families out of the agrarian Dissen cooked up their rab- est annual production rates of telecommuting, he quit his lifestyle of the 1960s. Mean- bit in a gumbo and grilled any region in the country. If you job to farm full-time. The while, small farms, such as their lamb over coals. It haven’t paid your local brewery goal was to be self-sufficient East Fork, benefited from was an ideal expression a visit, now’s the best time to and sell fresh food—mostly a fresh food revolution, of a diner’s connection to enjoy the beers of summer. lamb, sometimes poultry spearheaded by chefs like food, but also of a deeper, Check out a state-by-state list of and rabbit—locally at farm- William Dissen, who cooks longed-for connection LUKENATE PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGET; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS our favorites at southernliving ers’ and tailgate markets. the Robertsons’ products to the source—the land. .com/beer. —Hannah Hayes 84 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW JUNE 2014 | SOUTHERN LIVING | 85 A TO Z GUIDE CONDIMENTS 3 MORE TO TRY C Back 40 Beer C Vinegar The brewers at Gadsden, Ala- D bama’s Back 40 Brewery craft E this golden elixir DUKE’S by fermenting leftover MAYO beer. It’s really great A with greens. back fortybeer.com/store DIY A N GUIDE Kerala Curry OBSESSION Tomato Chutney Your hot dogs just got 10 times better with this SEVERAL FRIENDS dynamic Pittsboro, recently chipped in and North Carolina, sauce. surprised me with a keralacurry.com painting of a jar of Duke’s phenomenon. After Euge- part, for reasons that first Pickled Pink Mayonnaise. I framed it nia Duke founded her first spurred its popularity Pickles and hung it above my enterprise, Duke’s Sand- nearly a century ago. Sold Our staff goes mantel. “Your mantel?” wiches, in Greenville, to Greenville drugstore crazy for my mother questioned. South Carolina, in 1917, she lunch counters, army can- former SL Test I’m not the only one was inundated with letters teens, textile mills, and BOTTLE THE ESSENCE Kitchen Director Lyda with a Duke’s art collec- from soldiers who’d been the Duke Tea Room in the of summer by making your own Burnette’s sweet and tion. As Erin Hatcher, stationed at nearby Camp Ottaray Hotel, Eugenia put ups with the season’s peak sassy pickled goods. brand manager for Duke’s Sevier. Home after World Duke’s mayonnaise has produce. Bonus: Homemade pickledpinkfoods.com Mayonnaise at the C.F. War I, they requested her long been an equal- condiments make great holiday Sauer Co. in Richmond, mayonnaise recipe: oil, egg opportunity spread—at gifts, so get pickling, infusing, and fermenting now. Virginia, told me, the com- yolks, and cider vinegar home on white bread 1 lb. fresh hot chiles pany receives countless (for tang) but no sugar sandwiches and crudités. (such as Fresno), paintings of Duke’s each (which was rationed dur- Duke’s is a monarch for BOURBON-SOAKED washed and stemmed 1 year, alongside fan letters ing wartime). the people. And a portrait CHERRIES 2 /2 Tbsp. kosher salt and pitches for TV com- It’s the same recipe of royalty belongs above 2 cups white vinegar Kirk Samuels of Chapel Hill, mercials. That isn’t a new that’s praised today—in the mantel. —Emily Wallace North Carolina, shared this 1. Process chiles and salt in a recipe. Stir the cherries and their food processor about 30 syrup into anything bourbon- seconds or until minced, flavored, or use them to gussy stopping to scrape down A up sparkling beverages, such sides as needed. Transfer TRIBUTE BEFORE BROOKLYN brunched on but- as club soda and ginger ale. chile mixture to a sterilized termilk biscuits and grits guest starred on West 1-qt. glass jar. Cover with Coast menus, there was John Egerton. He died 1 1 /2 cups refrigerated cheesecloth, and let stand in last November, but his legacy—of celebrating pomegranate juice a cool, dry place 2 days. and preserving the diversity and complexity of 1 cup sugar 2. Remove cheesecloth, and Southern food—is everywhere, starting with 1 lb. fresh cherries stir in vinegar. Cover mixture the chefs he mentored, the farmers he cham- 1 1 /2 cups bourbon completely (about 30 minutes). Chill 2 weeks before using. (Will your favorite chiles here, or with cheesecloth, and let pioned, and the writers he influenced. John’s 2. Remove pits from cherries, keep in fridge up to 6 months.) blend fiery ones with sweet stand in a cool, dry place 5 book Southern Food: At Home, On The Road, In 1. Bring first 2 ingredients to a leaving stems intact. Divide Makes 3 (8-oz.) jars. Hands-on 15 min.; ones to customize your own. days. (Skim and discard any History will remain a permanent fixture in our Total 45 min., plus 2 weeks for chilling simmer in a medium saucepan cherries among 3 (8-oz.) As for the consistency, we love film from surface, if neces- JOHN libraries. It reveals the beautiful and brutal stories of how we over medium-high heat, sterilized jars. Whisk bourbon the sauce in all of its chunky sary.) Cover jar with a came to know and love cornbread, country ham, and collard whisking constantly. Cook, into juice mixture, and pour glory, but if you want a tight-fitting lid; refrigerate up greens, while sparking conversations about race and class. He 1 CHUNKY HOT SAUCE whisking constantly, 10 minutes into jars, filling to /4 inch from smooth, looser take, press it to 6 months. set a table where all could gather over love for Southern food, or until mixture is syrupy. top; wipe jar rims. Cover with Fermentation is the secret to EGERTON and to that we raise high our glasses of sweet tea. —H.H. through a wire-mesh strainer. Makes 4 cups. Hands-on 15 min.; Remove from heat, and cool metal lids, and screw on bands. this robust, piquant sauce. Use PROP STYLING: BUFFY HARGET; FOOD STYLING: MARIAN COOPER CAIRNS PAINTING: AMY C. EVANS; PORTRAIT: PABLEAUX JOHNSON Total 15 min., plus 7 days for standing 86 | #SOUTHERNFOODNOW JUNE 2014 | SOUTHERN LIVING | 87 A TO Z GUIDE white pepper, followed by waves of red pepper for a subtle afterburn. Bonus: The paper packaging is vented, which keeps the crust from steaming to wilted flab inside the box.