Vol. 11, 1970 30 c

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SPECIALISE IN AND OFFER A WIDE RANGE OF New Zealand Woollen & Waterproof Clothing and Gear for Bush walkers Campers Cavers Mountaineers Rock Climbers Ski- Tourers * Our experience is at your service

THE GEAR WE OFFER IS DESIGNED TO PROVIDE MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY WITH MINIMUM WEIGHT

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CALL, PHONE OR WRITE FOR OUR LISTS (We can post anywhere in ) 692 GLENHUNTL Y ROAD, CAULFIELD, , 3162 Phone: 53-7353 (All Hours) Vol. 21, 1970

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Editor: Athol Schafer.

Advertising: Doug Pocock.

Distribution: Rex Filson.

All enquiries to: Melbourne Bushwalkers, Box 1751Q, G .P.O., Melbourne 3001.

WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the M~lbourne Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation. WALK Vol. 2.1, 1970

CONTENTS Editorial 3 Astray on the Prom Doug Pocock 4 Beauty spots of the Wulgulmerang Plateau and Snowy Gorges . Fred Halls . 9 Mammals of East Norman A. Wakefield . 14 Billywing Bill Downing 19 Shingles for a School-house Gwynnyth Taylor and Sue Brownlie .. 20 Wildflowers of Rex and Sue Filson 25 Rock Climbing -The Artificial Climb .. Merv Scott 29 Colour me Grey ..... Michael Griffin .... 32 The Battle of the Biosphere . Judith Wright McKinney 38 Books for Bushwalkers 44 Mountain Muster 48 Metric Scale Maps so

WALKS SECTION

Mount Cobbler - - Snowy Plains - Snowy Bluff - Mount Kent Range - Castleburn ( 12 days) 53 The Viking and The Razor (2 days) 59 Daylesford - Tipperary Springs - Hepburn Springs (I day) 61 Warburton - Mount Little Joe - La La Falls (I day) 63 Seville - Wandin Yallock Creek - Warramate Hills - Lilydale (I day) 64

COVER PHOTO by Rex Filson.

MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS always welcome visitors on their walks which include easy one-day excursions and week-end trips. Extended walking tours of three days or more are also included on the programme. If you are interested, then call in any Friday night, from 8 to 10.30 p.m., to the clubroom. Details may be obtained by writing to the Hon. Secretary, Box 175/Q, G.P.O., Melbourne 3001, or by phoning 97 3724.

2 EDITORIAL

It is now twenty-one years since the original sub-committee of the Melbourne Bushwalkers brought out the first issue of "Walk" in 1949. To mark the occasion let us make a pause to measure the terrain so far covered and view the prospect lying ahead.

For those who remember the era, it was a time when the bush was thicker and closer at hand. The paved roads we sometimes walk upon were then often unstraightened, shady tracks. For a young walker venturing beyond the foothills there was the challenging vista of range after range of mountains sketchily mapped, locked in mystery, pervaded by that delicious sense of remoteness now caught only momentarily when following the web of forestry roads and jeep-trails that have developed over the intervening years.

On the other hand the new conditions do allow weekending to places previously reached only by those prepared to undertake longer trips. But as the nearer lands are cut up and disappear under pressures exerted by a rapidly increasing population, it is generally necessary to travel further to find suitable walking areas. Other parts of the State too are under pressures from activities such as tourist development, water catch­ ment and marginal farming in places as far apart as the highest alpine peaks and the distant Little Desert.

In regard to the well publicised "battle" over the future of the Little Desert, a heartening omen is the overwhelming amount of public and individual support in favour of retaining the area's natural scenic and scientific value rather than allowing it to be bulldozed completely out of existence in accordance with the current official policy of development at all costs.

Most bushwalkers seem aware that the future of their recreation will depend largely on the extent of the areas reserved as National Parks. At present there are insufficient parks to cater for the increasing number of visitors. Of the State's total land area, only 0.6% represents National Parkland. Victorians may well cast envious eyes towards the more favourably endowed countries who regard 5% as inadequate. As walkers, we join with those working for new legislation on conservation.

Cartoon by kind permlaalon ol Peter Russell Clarke and the Herald. 3 ASTRAY ON THE PROM By Doug Pocock

Gentle Readers of this Humble Magazine. Through the years in which you have been enlightened and instructed in the Mysteries of the Noble Art of Bushwalking, you may be forgiven if you consider there are no Terrible Pitfalls awaiting the Young Novice. Take warning, young people, before straying from the Paths of Righteousness, from myself who, though hoary and wizened, am possessed of clear and tranquil mind and can cast my memory as far back as 1962, when as a youth I did venture forth into the Wilds of that Estate known as Wilsons Promontory. My companion in these peregrinations was a Young Lady who for Propriety's Sake shall be nameless. We did leave the clamour of Melbourne and travelled in our Vehicle over the High Road leading to the aforementioned Promontory. An Observant Bystander at would have noticed the setting up of camp that evening, and general preparations being carried out in readiness for a Walking Tour on the morrow. Morning dawned with a chorus from our Feathered Friends, and after breaking our fast we did venture forth with heavy loads and light hearts, our feet guided very ably by the excellent Chart of the Area produced by the Esteemed Algona Guides. The chart was highly comple­ mented by the paths which have been cut to aid Access to the Hinterland of the Promontory by Adventurous Souls. As the scenery unfolded before us we noticed the impressive Diverse Flora of that area. We partook of light morning refreshments at Oberon Bay and then diligent searching did reveal unto us the path leading to "The Overland Track". Following this we soon reached a rude shelter known as "Half-way Hut" where we did partake of our noon repast. Farewelling the shelter we did proceed further on our way, via Martins Hill to the proposed camp spot at Roaring Meg Creek. Thus did we fulfil our First Day's Plan without untoward incident. The morning of the Second Day found us once again engrossed in preparations for breaking our fast, and, this pleasant task completed, we did perambulate along the Track Towards the lighthouse. At this Humble Edifice we were cordially welcomed by the Stalwart Keeper of the Light, that Noble Being who, through fair weather or foul, keeps the light brightly burning every night, a Friendly Guide to those Mariners of the Briny Deep. This Sturdy Fellow did very kindly conduct us through the Establishment, which proved to be of Absorbing Interest. After an Extremely Pleasant Morning we took our leave of that gentleman and returned to our packs at Roaring Meg. Shouldering our burdens once more we retraced our steps of the previous day to the "Half-way Hut", where we did seek and obtain most welcome repose. Next morn we did proceed further along the Overland Track and after a short distance branched off to Waterloo Bay. We eased ourselves of our Burdens at the north end of the Bay and did partake of light refreshments whilst surveying the Pleasant Scene before us. Leaving our packs on the sand we undertook a Pleasant Stroll to the south end of the Bay, pausing awhile to dig in the sand bar separating lagoon from ocean. Returning from the stroll we decided to Indulge in a Leisurely Bathe. Advancing to the ocean edge, which dropped very steeply, I prepared to commit myself to the Bosom of the Deep, when I straightway perceived a Large Shark no more than three yards from me. This caused me 4 Extreme Palpitations of the Heart. Recovering from the shock of sighting what would have been an Extremely Unpleasant Bathing Companion, we moved on to recover our packs. Alas, water from the lagoon was pouring through the drain we had dug in the bar, gouging a channel ten feet wide and speedily increasing, as evidenced by the Insidious Eroding of the Sandbank supporting our possessions. Unfortunately, the channel was between us and our packs. Realising the need for Immediate Rescue of such goods, we began to cross the channel, only to find the bottom extremely soft as we began sinking into it. This did further distress us. Halfway over, the Young Lady became engulfed in the Slough of Despond, but somehow I did struggle across, up the bank, and did throw the Young Lady a rope. Thus was I able to extricate her from an extremely uncomfortable position. This episode caused second thoughts on the Joys of Bushwalking.

Oberon Bay from Mount Norgate. Photo by Robin Mitchell.

Hastily packing our trusty equipment we departed from Waterloo Bay to Little Waterloo Bay. From this point our intentions were to head cast to Kersops Peak and then north to Refuge Cove, this being the recommended route to Refuge. However, on departure, we did discover a track heading off from Little Waterloo Bay. No previous information had we been given regarding this track but we did reason that its logical destination would be Refuge Cove. We did begin to doubt this assumption when, on following the track, we found it heading generally north instead of east. But we continued on, the track becoming narrower, more tortuous, and more overgrown, till at last we concluded that we were following a wallaby or wombat pad. Consulting our chart we decided not to return to Little Waterloo Bay but to direct our footsteps generally east. This we 5 found easier in theory than in practice, due to the Flora of the Area forming an almost Impenetrable Barrier in the gullies we were forced to cross. Whilst crossing one of these gullies the Young Lady did encounter her First Leeches, which did strangely add to her miseries. That evening found us perched on an Inhospitable Hillside making a rude bivouac in which to spend the night, after what had been an eventful and not altogether enjoyable day. A heavy fog did greet us next morning; visibility was down to a few yards. Estimating our position from our chart, we decided to follow to the top of the ridge the Relatively Clear Spur that we were then on. After a hurriedly broken fast, we began the upward climb when a shower of rain served to fill our water bottle. About two-thirds of the way up the spur we paused for a breath and, as the fog was lifting, I looked around for a suitable vantage point to obtain a View of our Surroundings. A scout around did not reveal anything suited to my purpose, so I returned to the Young Lady only to find the Esteemed Chart of the Area missing. With visions of two Bleached Skeletons resting on the hillside, I retraced my steps and luckily recovered my chart. The Mournful Visions left me as I again greeted the Young Lady but they quickly returned when I found that my compass had jammed. I perceived the Imminent Departure of my Sense of Humour. We pushed on to the top of the ridge and were rewarded by a large rock affording us views down to both Refuge and Sealers Coves as well as to the Spur we had ascended. Perceiving our Whereabouts did somewhat enliven our spirits, and we celebrated with a Cup of Milo and some Biscuits for our luncheon. A Well Defined Spur led to Sealers Cove and it was down here that we decided to wend our way. Our chosen spur was relatively clear and we were able to make Good Progress towards Sealers Cove. As we neared our goal we branched off the spur and veered to the north-east, a direction which should have taken us to the south end of the Cove. Unfortunately, we found that the Density of the Flora varied inversely with the height above sea level. As it was naturally pre­ dominantly of the Cutting, Scratching and Ripping variety, our pace slowed down to something like two hundred yards per hour and Darkness did Descend ere we could reach the Cove. After a hurried tea we were preparing to seek sweet repose when we were startled by a Terrible Grunting and Crashing through the scrub, but a hastily shone torch did not reveal the source of the disturbance. This incident did nothing to soothe our ragged nerves. Next morning we did gloomily meditate upon the labours ahead of us necessary to attain our goal of Sealers Cove. After packing, I did scale a tree in the hope of recognising some landmarks, and, to my surprise, I perceived-only three yards away-the sands of Sealers Cove. We had not perceived them the previous night on account of the Thick Scrub and Failing Light. We staggered thankfully out of the scrub, and, still retaining a trace of sanity, lit a fire and prepared a Nourishing Repast before finding the track which would return us to Tidal River and thence to our respective abodes. Despite all the Tribulations of this Trip, the Young Lady (who shall still be nameless) and I remained Bushwalkers, and have gone our divers ways, both having participated since in many Pleasant Peregrinations, though none as ill-fated as the one just recounted. 6 molonys

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8 BEAUTY SPOTS OF THE WULGULMERANG PLATEAU AND SNOWY GORGES By Fred Halls

Buchan, with its beautiful caves and its peaceful National Park nestling deeply in the tree-lined valley of Spring Creek, is worth visiting for its tranquil atmosphere. However it can be considered as the gateway to better country further north: the Wulgulmerang Plateau, with its huge gorges and scarps of reddish lava carved by tributary streams of the mighty . The following is a list of beauty spots that are among the best in Victoria. As is to be expected in a walking magazine, the emphasis is placed on walking and climbing, although there are many spots described which may be reached from motor transport with minimum effort. The Playground. The lovely valley of the Native Dog Creek, or The Playground as it is more popularly and aptly known, is situated two days walk north-west of Black Mountain Station via Second Emu Flat, Wombargo, Rocky Plains Creek and the Rams Head Range. The valley is a pleasantly peaceful haunt for mobs of brumbies in the middle of The Cobberas, Rams Horn and Ruined Castle. The Cobberas. The magnificent knobby summit of En-a-no or the Big Cobbera (6,025 feet) the kingpin of the red-brown mossy Cobberas Mountains is two to three miles north of The Playground. It comprises glades of silver twisted Snow Gums divided by massive red-brown lava boulders and jagged outcrops of rhyodacite covered by thick masses of mosses and vari-coloured lichens. Other peaks worth visiting on the range are Moscow Peak and Cleft Peak, with its ravine and rock rivers. Rams Head Range and Ruined Castle. The sharp brown pinnacle that is the south-west peak of the Rams Head Range, just north of the track to The Playground, provides superb views of The Cobberas, Buchan Rock, and The Playground. The Ruined Castle presents a challenge to the rock climber. It is a spectacular broken brown turret south-east of The Playground. Emu Flat and Wombargo Mountain. The misty green valleys of Emu Flat are another brumby haunt which provides splendid campsites the first day out from Black Mountain, en route to the Cobberas. A fairly good road connecting Black Mountain Station with Benambra now passes the lower end of Second Emu Flat, which is overshadowed by the rocky peak of Little Wombargo. Mount Wombargo is well worth visiting because of the rivers of rock radiating from its north-eastern flank . Mount Stradbroke, 4,300 feet, is three miles west of Suggan Buggan. From this red-brown dome magnificent views are to be had of the Suggan Buggan-Snowy border country. Black Mountain Station is five miles south, past several delightful small snow plains. Stradbroke Chasm is a magnificent narrow rock-walled chasm 1,000 feet deep. It used to be the home of the lovely Brush-tailed Rock Wallabies. To enter, start at Rockbank Station and make tracks for the range gap at the head of Carsons Creek. Continue on through the gap downwards into Stradbroke Creek valley and through into the Chasm. The top (ca. 3,000 feet) of Stradbroke Chasm is situated three-quarters of a mile east-south-east of the dome of Mount Stradbroke. 9 Mount Hamilton, 3,400 feet, is 600 yards north-west of the Wulgul­ merang to Suggan Buggan road where it passes through the gap in the Rocky Range. Transport can be left at the gap (six miles beyond Wulgulmerang). There are splendid views of the blue Suggan Buggan Valley, Ballantynes Pimples (three peaks) and Avalanche Lookout. Two thousand feet below you can see the Wulgulmerang road winding through "The Cutting", and the 140 year old settlement of Suggan Buggan by the Toonginbooka River. Hanging Rock Two miles south-east along the Rocky Range from Avalanche Lookout is situated the fascinating geological structure of Hanging Rock, a honey-coloured upthrust lava ridge. After leaving transport at Rocky Range Gap below Mount Hamilton, turn right and walk south-east along the range top past a one-roomed house (Roger's property). Near here at a bearing of 125 degrees Hanging Rock can be seen in the distance across the southern head of the Buchan Creek valley. Follow the ridge around the creek, head south-east, then north-east, then finally north-north-west onto the lava rock pile which marks the spur end, Hanging Rock. From here you have a glorious view of the shimmering blue valley of Suggan Buggan. Rocky Range Wildlife Reserve. The Rocky Range extends south-east from the vicinity of The Cobberas to Black Mountain and the deeply indented red-brown scarp of the Little River Gorge. The Rocky Range Wildlife Reserve is four or five miles north-east of Wulgulmerang. The Reserve of 10,000 acres, on both sides of the rugged scarp, is a sanctuary to preserve the Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby, an animal which is rarely found in Victoria. On a northern spur of this scarp is the spectacular Hanging Rock. Black Mountain is a mile north of the Deddick road near Langhams Bluff. One hundred to one hundred and fifty yards before the Deddick road passes around Langhams Bluff, a spur drops down steeply then flattens out. There are splendid views of the Little River Gorge from this lava rock platform. From here continue to the right down a narrow spine, then up on to a rough lava pinnacle. From some of the pinnacles north of the cleft there are excellent views of The Gorge, 1,500-2,000 feet deep. Dense thickets of Tingiringi Gum, a smooth-barked -type eucalypt, grow on some of the salmon-coloured rock piles. Langbams Bluff. Views of the Snowy River Valley can be obtained from the summit of the rocks on Langhams Bluff, six miles from Wulgulmerang and 200-300 feet above the Deddick road. It is necessary to move around the lava rock piles for good views between the trunks of Tingiringi Gum. Tbe Point. Descending steeply past Langhams Bluff, the Deddick road flattens out near The Point. About two and a half miles past the Bluff follow a northerly spur until the high, rocky, scrubby spine of Mount Wheeler is reached (ca. a mile and a quarter from the road); this is The Point. From here can be seen to the north the rocky top of Mount Wheeler and a magnificent panorama of the purple landslide country 2,000 feet below. Beaver Castle, one mile from the road, is a high rocky outcrop south of The Point overlooking the deep Little River Gorge. Little River Falls. Where Little River crosses the Deddick road it is only a quarter-mile stroll to the top of Little River Falls, a splendid waterfall dropping into the head of Little River Gorge. From this point the stream loses 2,000 feet during its two-mile journey downstream through the huge ravine. 10 Little River Gorge. One and three-quarter miles past Little River Crossing a rough road to the south-west leads in half a mile to a turntable. A further 200 yards along a foot track is the top of the Devils Staircase, and the breath-taking splendour of Little River Gorge Lookout. A fantastic view it is too, with the Little River in the ravine far below your feet. Directly opposite, the Wulgulmerang Creek falls a total of 1,000 feet from a side crevice, joining Little River almost directly below the Lookout. Between Langhams Bluff and the gorge head at Little River Falls, three miles down, the stream has carved a cleft 2,000 feet through hard resistant orange rhyodacite, the Snowy River porphyries. An approach into Little River Gorge may be made by following the stream down below Little River Falls, although this involves much boulder hopping.

Rock Rivers. Photo by Rex Filson.

No doubt the Little River Gorge is a magnificent vantage point, but in my opinion the best view of all is that from the cliff edge half a mile west-south-west across the red chasm. This cliff top is adjacent to the well-defined lip of the topmost waterfall, Wulgulmerang Falls, the deepest and most awe-inspiring in all the Snowy Gorge Country. The view lengthwise along the ravine down towards the Snowy River five miles distant is blocked by a huge square-topped salmon-coloured bluff standing high above all, in the midst of the red gulf. Although this spot is only one and three-quarter miles from Little River Falls, it is difficult to find the correct spur and negotiate the dense Tingiringi Gum scrub near the cliff edges. An isolated place of great beauty in the midst of thick bush. High above the ravine there are numerous grand lookout points from the red-gold lava razorbacks which give views of a colourful river gorge 1,500-2,000 feet deep. 11 Mount Seldom Seen is five miles west of the Wulgulmerang road. The road turnoff is one mile north of the point where Boundary Creek crosses the main road. From the firetower you can see of Buchan Rock and as far distant as The Pilot and Mount Kosciusko. St. Helena Rocks, a series of pinnacles of crumbling salmon-coloured rhyodacite 1,500 feet above the deep spectacular gorge of Boundary Creek, are about three miles east of Currie Creek. The creek has one of Australia's best gorges, with dense rain forest in its depths. Permission to visit these rocks must be obtained from the local landholders. The Sebastopol or TuJach Ard Gorge is five miles south-east of Back Creek (north of Butchers Ridge) on the Wulgulmerang road. Follow the road east and south to the site of the old Tulach Ard homestead, which was built in 1856 and subsequently destroyed by fire. Two and a quarter miles from Tulach Ard is the Gorge, nearly 2,000 feet below the level of the homestead's eastern paddocks. It extends downstream three miles along the Snowy River through "The Narrows" to its junction with Broadbents River. To reach the Gorge, follow the east-north-east spur down from Tulach Ard's eastern paddock. There are some areas of loose scree lower down the steep spur. This ravine is very wild and spectacular, with its often narrow precipitous walls. It is extremely difficult to travel downstream from "The Narrows" because of the crumbling cliffs, thorny vines and scrub, and the loose scree. The greenish Snowy River races between cliffs of blue-black shale, bluffs of honey coloured rock, reddish porphry, purple rock strata and stones of black or red marble. A wild and lonely spot indeed. New Guinea Range. From the front gate of Tulach Ard the road continues south to Buchan by way of the New Guinea Range and the Snowy Basin. Features of the Range are the beautiful rain forest jungles and a distant view of Mount Ellery over the thick forest from a rocky bluff high above the Snowy River.

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12 Mount Stredbroke end Stredbroke Cheem from Suggen Buggen. Photo by Rex Filson. Jacksons Crossing. The glorious Shangri-la valley of Jacksons Crossing is a day's walk along a bumpy jeep track from the wide green slopes of the Snowy Basin. The wide and green flats fronting the Snowy River shelter beneath jungle-clad hills sweeping down from the New Guinea Spur. The with its splendid gorge joins the Snowy River on the east bank half a mile below the Crossing. Bally Hooley Ridge is five miles east of Buchan. From the ridge there is a fine view along the Snowy Valley, past Mount Tabby and the green Snowy Basin, to distant cliff-girt Tingiringi. A pleasant scene when the wattles are blooming. It may be reached by following Bally Hooley Road south-easterly down from the junction of Basin Road three-quarters of a mile below Mount McLeod, or by following the rough road east from the junction a quarter of a mile past the crossing on the Basin Road. It is a four mile return walk to the Bally Hooley Ridge. Mount McLeod. A good view of the Snowy Basin is obtained from the summit of Mount McLeod. Follow the road uphill one and a quarter miles from the junction of Bally Hooley, McLeod and Basin Roads, along the course of a verdant creek. At the creek head turn right along the jeep track to the summit. The Pyramids. Where the Murrindal River winds between high lime­ stone bluffs before disappearing into a mountainside and becoming an underground river, four miles north-east of Buchan, is the region known as The Pyramids. It is an area of limestone caverns and sink holes over­ shadowed by three rock stacks. Some of the caves are the last resting­ places of long dead Murrindal animals. In this vicinity there are many other places of great beauty and interest worthy of a visit, such as Reedy River Chasm, Forlorn Hope Plain and Buchan Oorae. 13 MAMMALS OF EAST GIPPSLAND By Norman A. Wakefield

Although the general observer is not privileged to observe many of them, there are at least forty species of mammal native to East Gippsland, and the introduced feral kinds number ten. This article provides a census of the species, and draws attention to signs that may reveal their presence when they are not actually observed. Notes about local distribution are given too, so that visitors to parts of the region may know what mammals might be present in a particular district. Descriptions, for identification, are not given, so the data should be used in conjunction with books which cater for that aspect. The Platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus) inhabits lowland streams with vegetated banks. It is observed in the late evening or at night, and prints of its 5-toed webbed feet may be seen in soft mud by the water. Echidnas (Tachyglossus aculeatus) live in coastal heathlands and light forests up to about 3000 feet elevation. Large craters, about a foot wide, mark where they have dug into ant-beds for their food. The Phascogale group comprises small insectivorous marsupials erroneously called "mice". Commonest is the Brown Phascogale (A ntechinus stuartii), which ranges from coast to alps. It forages about on tree-trunks, logs, and amongst debris on the forest floor. Normally nocturnal, it is sometimes abroad of a dull day, especially towards evening. Frequently it raids camp supplies in bush huts. The typical form of the Dusky Phascogale (Antechinus swain.wnii) lives in wet ferny forests, from lowlands to alps; and there is a lighter­ coloured variant about the coastal dune swamps. [The somewhat similar Tasmanian Phascogale (A. minimus) occurs on Wilson's Promontory, so it could be present in coastal tracts of East Gippsland.] The White-footed Dunnart (Sminthopsis leucopus) belon~s mainly to coastal sand-dune country, but it has been found also in the Buchan lime­ stone area. The Tuan (Phascoga/e tarmatafa) frequents rather open drier forests, from lowlands to subalps, and it has been recorded from near Bairnsdale and at . The Tiger-cat (Dasyurus maculatus) is fairly plentiful. thou!!h rarely encountered. It is known in the Bairnsdale and Orbost areas, about the upper Snowy River region, and near Tamboon Inlet. [It is tolerably certain that the Quoll, or "native cat", (Dasyurus viverrinus), no longer survives in East Gippsland.] All or most of the original population of Koalas fPhascolarctos cine­ reus) died out many years ago. A few may survive in the area, and some have been re-introduced at the reserve. The Wombat (Vombatus ursinus) is abundant in heathland and forest from coast to alps. The large burrows may be found, and its pathways are seen in hilly country. Its tracks show large claw-marks, but other­ wise the hind foot is like that of a small child. Often its tracks are seen in the snow. The Wombat's faeces ("droppintzs") are an inch or more wide, almost cubical in shape, and are often left, with associated scratch marks, on bush tracks. Sometimes it chews bark from the butts of stringy­ bark eucalypts, and, when fighting, it utters a loud snarlin!! growL Bandicoots extract grubs and beetles from the ground, leaving sharoly conical holes from an inch to several inches deep. The little explosive snort of a bandicoot is often heard in the bush at night, as the animal 14 clears soil from its nostrils. The Brown Bandicoot (lsoodon obesu/us) inhabits near-coa~tal heathlands and grassy tracts about lowland forests. The Long-nosed Bandicoot (Perameles nasuta) is normally an animal of heavy mountain forests, at elevations sometimes over 3000 feet, but it does extend down into some coastal areas too. The Silver-grey Possum (Trichosurus vu/pecula) lives in woodlands and drier forests of the lowlands and coastal tracts. It lives too in settled places and learns to come for scraps of food that are thrown out or left purposely for it. It has a harsh rasping call. The Bobuck (Trichosurus caninus) inhabits wet mountain forests, to elevations of about 5000 feet. Its call is a rapid series of deep-toned croaks, and sometimes a Bobuck will raid the camp larder. The Ringtail Possum (Pseudocheirus peregrinus) is abundant from the sand-dunes to highland forests at 5000 feet elevation. In coastal tea-tree and creek-side shrubbery, it makes large domed nests of dry leaves and sticks. '

Apple Box trees near , showing work of the Fluffy Glider, Petaurus australis. Lett - Extraction of large "wlchetty grub" lnaect larvae. Right - Scars of a series of V-shaped sap-tapping incisions.

The Dusky Glider (Schoinobates volans) is very abundant in forests of wet mountain tracts, up to about 4500 feet. Sometimes it emerges from its home (in a hollow limb) and is seen to glide in the dusk of evening. Its eyes are remarkably reflective and gleam with a white light in the beam of a powerful torch. Though reputed to give voice to a loud call, this glider is, in fact, quite mute. Fluffy Gliders (Petaurus australis) utter a long-drawn gurgling shriek as they volplane through the air. They inhabit fairly open timber as well as the dense high-mountain forests. They remove V-shaped pieces of bark from trees, to tap the sweet sap, and thus provide conspicuous evidence of their presence. Trees treated in this way include bloodwoods 15 at Mallacoota, manna gums at Wingan River, blue gums at Mount Drummer, and apple boxes in many places. Sometimes too, they rip off bark in pursuit of the "witchetty-grub" larvae of large moths and beetles. (See photo­ graphs.) The Sugar Glider (Petaurus breviceps) is very abundant throughout the forests, from lowlands to subalps. Sometimes they come to investigate a camp-fire and may be seen above it, against the faint light of the sky, running about in the trees and perhaps gliding. Their alarm call is often heard at night-a single call, repeated at intervals, something like the yap of a young terrier. Pigmy-po5sums (Cercartetus nanus) sometimes take up abode in bed­ ding or clothes in a beach holiday cottage, or they are found by tree fellers. Otherwise the species is almost never encountered, though it is scattered from coast to alps. The Feathertail Glider (Acrobates pygmaeus) is abundant in both lowland and highland forests (to about 4000 feet). It too is a cryptic species, sometimes found by forest workers, and occasionally seen as a cat victim. [The Mountain Pigmy-possum (Burramys parvus) occurs near , and the "Leadbeater" or Fairy Possum (Gymnobelideus /ead­ beateri) was found, 60 years ago, at Sunnyside, near Mount Wills. Either of these may be in the highlands of East Gippsland.] The Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus) is plentiful from coastal flats to more open mountain forests up to about 4000 feet elevation. It usually grazes at night, but when the grass is wet with dew or rain, it is seen feeding in the daytime. Its faecal pellets are black, almost round, and about an inch in size. The tracks are identified by the outer of the two toes being very much smaller than the great inner one. Two skins of the Wallaroo (Macropus robustus) were obtained twenty years ago. in the mountains several miles east of Suggan Buggan, but nothing else is known of the species in Victoria. It is more stockily built than the Grey Kangaroo, with yellowish tones in its coat and long shaggy hair about the flanks. The Brush Wallaby (Macropus rufof!riseus) is plentiful in more open forests, from the Mallacoota-Wingan area. where it is locally known as "red wallaby", to the subalpine tablelands about Wulgulmerang, where the colour is more l!enerally j!rey. The Swamp Wallaby (Wallabia bico/or) is very abundant in dense vegetation (bracken. tea-tree scrub. wet forests. etc.) from the coast to elevations about 4000 feet. Locally it is the "black wallaby". This species has the outer toe nearly as long as the inner, and when iumpinl! the feet are kept close together, so the print usually shows four radiating toes equally spaced and of similar length. The Rock-wallaby (Petrogale penicillata) is now confined to gorges and crags of the upper , Rocky Ran~~:e near Sugl!an Bul!gan, Little River, Mount Deddick area, Boundary Creek, and the Snowy River gorges. In its colony areas, which are very circumscribed. its faeces are conspicuous on rock ledges and in the nooks where it shelters during the day. Typical pellets are an inch or more long, cylindrical, and more-or­ less pointed at each end. The Southern Potoroo (Potorous apica/is) inhabits lowland tracts of Victoria and extends east to near Orbost and towards . The larger Eastern Potoroo (P. tridactylus) of , was found recently in the subalpine forests north of Yalmy River. These are secretive in their habits and not likely to be observed. 16 A Reliable Companion

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17 The Bush Rat (Rattus fuscipes assimilis) is abundant from the coastal sand-dunes to Sphagnum moss-beds in the alps. Its runways may be seen through sedges and grasses in heathlands and in creek-side vegetation in the forests. Swamp-rats (Rattus lutreolus) are lowland animals, plentiful in dense heathland vegetation and the sedge and grass thickets of dune swamps and river fiats. Their runways are usually dug down an inch or so into the ground surface, and the spoil is thrown out in conspicuous heaps. [The Broad-toothed Rat (Mastacomys fuscus) occurs near Mount Hotham, and it may be present in the mountains of East Gippsland.] The Water-rat (Hydromys chrysogaster) is associated with both salt and fresh water. Its habitat extends to streams of the subalpine table­ lands. In the estuaries it catches the swimming crab and often leaves debris of its meal on the deck of a motor launch. Similarly, it leaves fresh-water mussel shells on partly submerged logs along creeks and rivers. The Dingo (Canis jami/iaris dingo) is widespread both in coastal tracts and in the mountains. It forages amongst debris cast up by the ocean and leaves its tracks in beach sands. It takes advantage of forestry tracks, and the faeces often contain sizable bone fragments from the wallabies preyed upon. Occasionally a dingo is seen during the day or heard bowling at night. Rookeries of the Fur Seal (Arctocephalus dori/erus) are located on off-shore islands such as The Skerries near , and occasionally individuals invade Mallacoota Inlet and other estuaries. Six species of small bats have been recorded, and there are four others that almost certainly occur in East Gippsland. There are cave bats. The Bent-wing Bat (Miniopterus schriebersii) lives principally in the Buchan limestones, but also in such locations as mine tunnels and deep crevices in granitic outcrops. The Horseshoe Bat (Rhino/ophus megaphyllus) occurs in the Buchan district and near Toorloo Arm; and a species of Myotis (M. adversus) lives near Buchan too. Other species are forest bats, roosting of a day in hollow limbs or behind loose slabs of bark. The Lesser Long-eared Bat (Nyctophilus geof­ jroyi) is the one that commonly enters houses at night, and it is sometimes found in the folds of a coat hanging in garage or shed. The White-striped Bat (Tadarida australis) and the Wattled Bat (Chalino/obus gou/dii) have each been recorded in the country north of Buchan. [Besides these, one would expect the Greater Long-eared Bat (Nyctophi/us timoriensis), Pipi­ strell (Pipistrel/us tasmaniensis), Little Bat (Eptesicus pumilis) and Choco­ late Bat (Chalinolobus morio) to occur in East Gippsland.] Grey-headed Fruit-bats (Pteropus poliocephalus) come south into East Gippsland every summer. They have a regular "camp" somewhere in the Dowells River area, on the northern fringe of Mallacoota Inlet, and usually they spread west, in groups of varying size, to the , Bemm River, Orbost and Buchan districts. Introduced mammals include the Rabbit, which is almost everywhere. The European Hare has spread east to the area, possibly further, and it bas probably entered the Bendock district from the Monaro Plains of New South Wales. The Ship Rat (Rattus rattus) and Domestic Mouse are established in areas near settlement, and the Domestic Cat extends even into remote parts of the bush. The Fox is now ubiquitous, from the beaches to the highest alps, and its harsh double bark is often heard at night. The faeces are smaller than those of the Dingo and, besides fur and small bones, these frequently contain remains of beetles, moths and grasshoppers. 18 The Brumby, or wild horse, is abundant in the subalps and alps, especially the Nunniong-Cobberas area, and its conspicuous trails form a network along the ridges and down to the grassy meadows. The Red Deer bas a stronghold about the Snowy River across the border, and individuals occasionally wander as far down as the Cann Valley in East Gippsland. Samburs migrated eastward after the severe fires a few years ago and appeared in the lower Snowy River area; and there are Hog Deer about the Gippsland Lakes and probably along the coast further east as well. ~ 0 1 BILLYWIN(i ~·

At Billywing Red-ochred ritual figures Of the Buandik of the Mara race And the sacred white pipe-clay symbols Of the conquering Jardwah, from the Wotje-boluk In rocky shelters - At the holy places - Of a vanished people. They were driven before soldiers, like cattle Into the Billywing swamp, And the waters of Billywing turned red, And when the evening sky reddened There was but one old man left. No one now traces over the sacred symbols, Worships at the cave of Bunjil Or the great snake at Langi-Ghiran For the Buandik and the Jardwah have gone. Indeed! Where now are the Wotje-boluks or the Mara, The Kulin, the Kurnal, the Ya-ltma-thang? The six nations have vanished. How sweet is the smell of spilt blood How beautiful is its deep red colour. For having slain, we must slay again. How very close are Billiwing and Viet Nam. Bill Downing

19 SHINGLES FOR A SCHOOL-HOUSE By Sue Brownlie and Gwynnytb Taylor

Far across the valley, almost on the New South Wales border, the sheer cliffs of Mt. Tingiringi were pink in the late afternoon light, amid the deep-blue folds of the surrounding mountains. We stood on the Wallaby Rocks, a craggy outcrop on the edge of the Wulgulmerang Plateau, high above the Suggan Buggan valley. This jumble of rocks had once sheltered a colony of rock-wallabies. Our search for these small creatures had been unsuc~.:e~sful, and we found no trace but old droppings and the polished ledges where they had sat for countless generations. For reasons we must ever regret, they are now no more. Our guide was Keith Rogers, naturalist, cattleman and lover of the high country in which his life has been spent. As we gazed over that blue­ shadowed valley we talked of the early days. "Down from the Monaro they came-in that direction", said Keith. We followed his pointing finger, and were filled with profound admiration for the early pioneers who had struggled with spirited courage and indomit­ able tenacity over mountain range and rocky gorge in search of pastures and a place to settle. Although it was not until 1858 that the Suggan Buggan valley was actually settled, the first licence for this land was issued to William Wood­ house in April, 11!43 . The records of the Victorian Lands Department indicate that it then passed through the hands of Henry Kesterton and James McGuffie before Edward O'Rourke obtained it in January, 1858 and built his homestead there. Edward was the son of James O'Rourke who lived at Wulgulmerang from early 1845 till 1852, before moving to the Yarram district. Chris­ topher, a younger brother of James, lived at Black Mountain in 1845, and was buried there in 1854. From the Wulgulmerang Plateau the narrow road winds steeply down; the views across the valley, clothed in dark cypress pine and misty blue­ grey White Box, compensate for the airy drop from the road edge. For us, twilight paced the setting sun, and it was by the car headlights that we were introduced to Suggan Buggan. Crossing the rippling Toonginbooka or Suggan Buggan River glinting in the moonlight, we drew up beside the little school-house-all that remains of the dwellings of Edward O'Rourke, the first settler. Its door hung by one hinge, many of the thick cypress pine slabs were missing from the walls, and through the almost non-existent roof the stars shone down. Poor sad little place! That night, and for many days to follow, the thought of that little cabin haunted us. So many of the tangible reminders of the early days had vanished, decayed and been allowed to rot with scarcely a thought to their value. And right here was a piece of history which must not be permitted to become a crumbled heap of rafters and slabs. But how to restore it?

Oppoalte: The Little School-house. Above - Before. Below - Alter. Photos by Rex Filson and John Siseman. 20 21 We felt sure that there were enough of our own club members who cared sufficiently about the past to work on this project so that walkers to come might also catch a glimpse of what had been. The thought gained momentum. But where to begin? And was it possible anyway? A few weeks later, chance found us within a days drive of Suggan Bug­ gao, in the daylight this time. With Beryl and Keith Rogers we visited once again that rain-shadow valley of clear stream, grey-green vegetation, azure sky and deep shadows. The school-house, one time early seat of learning for Edward O'Rourke's children, looked more forlorn than ever. The original homestead had long since gone, a grassy mound scattered with stones being the only hint of its site. The ugly dwelling of a present-day landholder seemed to crowd upon the little hut, and tins and rubbish left by thoughtless individuals increased its derelict appearance. Above stood the sole survivor of the three giant Yellow Box trees, famous in many old photographs. Upon close inspection we found that the general condition of the building was still reasonable, the pine rafters were sound, the fireplace functioned and was large enough to accommodate a bench either side. Then began the real challenge. The roof must originally have been shingled, but where to find shingles in this modem age? How were they attached? And what about the replacement of the pine slabs on the walls? The avenues of assistance that opened up once the project became known were astonishing. That rare person, a man who had cut shingles as a boy, was found and with his expertise we soon had hundreds of shingles stacked to dry. They were of White Stringy-bark, traditionally used because of its particularly straight grain. The Watkinson family of Suggan Buggan spontaneously offered to cope with the required slabs of pine. Their warm cheery friendliness (and bubbling kettle) will long be remembered. A visit to the National Trust led to an evening with a descendant of the O'Rourke family, and we heard stories of those far-off days and people. There was a tutor by the name of Ballantyne (after whom the nearby Ballantyne Hills were presumably named), who spoke with a magnificent accent and thoroughly instructed the children in the art of speech. We heard of Tommy Dillon, a "ticket of leave" man, who helped on the property until a fall from a horse permanently crippled him. Thereafter he pottered about the homestead. and was greatly loved by the youngsters. Legend records that Tommy's problem was kleptomania. and, were anything missed, perhaps even a thimble, a look under Tommy's mattress would almost certainly reveal it. When he died his grave was placed high on the hill above the homestead, the carved posts and enclosing rails bearing testimony to the affection with which this man was regarded. At last everything was organized, and twenty of us set off on the eve of Easter, 1966. The rendezvous was Buchan. Rain fell during the night and Good Friday dawned very wet. Nothing daunted, however. we arrived at Suggan Buggan, and Terry Watkinson immediately offered us the use of his wool-shed. Soon the sun came out, and thereafter the days flew. Much hammering and banging, singing and laughter, combined with earnest consultation, wrought by Monday a remarkable transformation. It was a good experience, we'd had a grand Easter, and at least some of us now know a bit more about putting on a shingle. 22 FOR A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP buy a PURADOWN SLEEPING BAG MADE FOR EVERY CLIMATE See the new Polar Deluxe Model, suitable for Winter or Summer, with zipp full length and across the bottom, with draught-proof flap. Can be opened out full width. * Two bags zipped together make double sleeping-bag *

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23 FORESTS ARE FOR EVERYONE Each year Victorians look increasingly to their forests to provide good quality timber, clear, clean water, areas for outdoor recreation, fodder for livestock, and habitats to conserve fish, native animals and birds. With 1,000 trained fire-fighters on instant call during the summer months. the Commission takes charge of fire-fighting in the fourteen million acres of State forest. While in the forest you can help us with the fight against forest fires. CAMPFIRES: Use a fireplace or trench at least 18 inches deep; keep the fire small; clear ten feet around and above it; make sure it's out when you leave. DAY OF TOTAL FIRE BAN: No fire may be lit in the open. This includes barbecues, spirit stoves, and gas stoves. Any fires found burning must be put out by the tinder, if possible, and must be reported to the nearest Forest Officer or Police Officer. FORESTS COMMISSION, VICTORIA.

24 WILD FLOWERS OF EAST GIPPSLAND By Rex and Sue Filson

Eastern Victoria has a very large flora consisting of some 1,450 species of which 200 are found nowhere else in the State. It is impossible to describe all the plants found in this vast region so we have selected 23 common and not so common species seen in this area. The Bloodwood, Eucalyptus gummifera I, grows profusely in far Eastern Gippsland. This is usually a small tree but sometimes attains a height of 80 feet. It is so named because of the dark red sap which is abundantly exuded. The tree has large creamy-white to pinkish flowers which develop into urn-shaped fruits. A tree often mistaken for a eucalypt is the Gum Myrtle Angophora floribunda 2, with its rough bark and abundant fluffy white clusters of flowers . It differs from a eucalypt by not having a cap (operculum) covering the stamens whilst the flowers are in bud. One of the most attractive tall shrubs is the Crimson Bottle-brush Callistemon citrinus 3, which is covered with two to four inch long red flower spikes in spring. Its flat lanceolate leaves are also about two inches long. This shrub some­ times grows to a height of 30 feet under favour­ able conditions. Another pretty shrub in the Howe Ranges, is the Toothed Daisy Bush 0/earia dentata 1, with large white or pale blue flower­ heads and long stalked orbicular leaves. Along the Bemm River and other watercourses is seen the drooping branched River Acacia Acacia subporosa 5, growing to a height of 40 feet. It has narrow, often curved lanceolate leaves, flowers single or in pairs, and a straight seed pod one and a half inches long. Branches of the young plant are inclined to be sticky. Often seen is the 30 feet high Sweet Pittos­ porum Piuosporum undu/atum 4, with its very sweet smelling white compound clusters of flowers. The small fruits are yellow-orange and when open reveal numerous reddish-brown sticky seeds. If the branches are cut an exceedingly sticky resin is secreted. The timber from the Pittoeporum is hard and tough, therefore useful for carvlna. The same is true of the beautiful light-brown timber of the Gippsland Waratah Te/opea ortade.v 12, distinctive with its crimson flowers in denao globular heads. The glabrous lanceolato leavea nre up to eight inches long

25 tapering into a long petiole. This small tree sometimes grows to a height of 30 to 40 feet in the higher damper forests. Another semi­ scented shrub is the Plume Humea Calomeria amaranthoides 6, a biennial plant with broad six-to-ten-inch leaves and small heads of pink and purple flowers . The poplar-like Currajong Brachychiton popul­ neus 15, found chiefly on rocky hills, is a stout stemmed tree. Its bell-shaped flowers are formed by a broad calyx which is creamy on the outside, reddish inside. In this genus true petals are absent. The aboriginals used the bark for cordage and nets. The dark yellow seeds are edible. The delicate long-stemmed bluish-purple flowers of the Blue Howittia, Howillia trilo­ cularis 22, look like small hibiscus flowers to which this shrub is telated. The leaves have grey to brownish wool on the underside and often their edges are irregularly toothed. The leaves of the Round-leafed Pomaderris, Pomaderris vac­ ciniifolia 16, have the same characteristic. Underneath they have white or grey wool, above they are shining. This shrub attains a height of 15 feet and has small clusters of creamy­ yellow flowers. A sub-alpine shrub growing on the mountains of this region is the Spiked Mint Bush, Prostanthera phylicijolia 23. It grows to five feet high and has small oblong linear leaves with recurved margins. The trumpet-shaped flowers are white with yellow dots towards their throats. There are many vines and climbers in this area. A frequent climber is the Erect Clematis, Cle­ matis glycinoides 8, a perennial plant with white or cream coloured flower clusters and leaves which are usually divided into three. Austral Sarsaparilla, Smilax australis 10, is a tall glabrous climber which is sometimes prickly. The leaves are rounded 2-5 inches long. A black globular berry containing one or two seeds develops from the small white or purple female flower. The weak flexuose stems of the uncommon Wombat Berry, Eustrephus /atifolius 11, need the support of a tree although they do not twine around it. The two-to-four-inch long leaves are ovate to lanceolate. The starry white flowers are followed by an orange berry which has three to twelve seeds. The small tubers of the Wombat Berry are sweet and edible. A vine which does twine is the Twining Guinea-flower, Hibbertia dentata 20. The leaves and flowers are large, the latter being creamy-yellow on short stalks. The Big-leaf Vine,

26 Scarcopetalum harveyanum 21, is not often seen. It is a tall woody climber with thick cylindrical stems and broad ovate leaves, which are some­ times lobed, five inches long on a one-to-three­ inch stalk. The flowers are reddish yellow and their berries are reported to be poisonous. The large blue solitary flowers of the small annual Hairy Fan-flower, Scaevo/a ramosis­ sima 19, are to be seen around Mallacoota Inlet and the coastal regions. The linear lanceolate leaves are sometimes slightly toothed. Two of the orchids of East Gippsland are the Rock Orchid, Dendrobium speciosum 13, and the Streaked Rock Orchid, Dendrobium striolatum 14. The first is an epiphytic orchid growing over the granite boulders. It has thick fleshy stems, sometimes one foot high, and large flat thick leaves. The stalked flowers are cream or pale yellow with their white labellums and columns spotted with purple. The Streaked Rock Orchid has elongated creeping rhizomes, short stems, fleshy cylindrical leaves, and solitary white flowers which have three to five dark coloured stripes towards their base. Often growing in the company of the Streaked Rock Orchid is the Rock Feltfern, Pyrrosia rupestris 18. This abundant fern likes to grow on sheltered rock faces and on the trunks and limbs of the jungle trees. Its rhizome is epiphytic, being long and slender. The entire fronds are thick and leathery with their upper surfaces green and the undersides silvery with a felly mat of tiny star-shaped scales. In the sub-tropical rain forests ferns are plen­ tiful. Around Mt. Drummer, Genoa and in the Howe Ranges the Prickly Rasp-fern, Doodia aspera 17 is a common sight with its two feet high stiff fronds growing from the long rhizome. The sori usually appear on the fronds in two rows on each side of the midrib. The Jungle Brake, Pteris umbrosa 9 is one of the most attrac­ tive ferns as it grows in large clumps of dark green, three to four feet high, fronds. The fronds are divided into two pinnae the lowest pair of which are stalked and much branched. The pinnae are several inches to over a foot in length and taper to a long coarsely toothed tip. The sori appear in long continuous marginal lines. These short descriptions illustrate the diversity of the flora of Eastern Gippsland.

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28 ROCK CLIMBING - THE ARTIFICIAL CLIMB By Merv Scott

To many bushwalkers rock climbing is a field to be shunned. However, many walks can be made more pleasurable with a little knowledge of the basic principles. Climbing can provide a mode of travel and the occasional ascent of an outcrop often gives an extended view or vantage point. The golden rules of this sport are: judge the climb, Plan your route, and ensure your return. Once on the rock consider your balance, keep as vertical as possible and do not over-reach to a hold no matter how

Climbing at Mount Arapllea. Photo by John Brownlie.

good it seems. It is best to keep a three-point attachment to the rock, moving one hand or foot at a time. Never move the feet while reaching for a hand-hold. Having accomplished a pitch, however easy, using these principles you will have some idea of the thrill of rock climbing which leads then to some understanding of the artificial climb. Artificial climbing is climbing with extensive use of mechanical aids and has developed naturally as climbers have overcome the difficult natural features of rock faces and have risen to the challenge of climbing a pitch, however difficult, just "because it is there". Its inherent features 29 are a mastery of the basic skills of climbing, realization of one's limitations, and absolute teamwork. To carry out an artificial climb successfully the members of the team must attach themselves to the face using any of a variety of anchors. Each member wears a harness which is connected to the anchors by ropes or terylene tapes. Anchorage is achieved by pitons, crackers, nuts, bolts, hexagons or spuds. Knifeblades, angles, cliffhangers, crack tacks, arrowheads and the Realised Ultimate Reality are all pitons doing much as their names imply. Crackers, jamnuts, hexagons and spuds are all wedged into suitable cracks to provide holds while bolts are placed into holes drilled into the rock surface by the climber. In order to fix the pitons, etc., firmly into place the climber should include amongst his equipment a suitably shaped hammer and masonry drills. Having established an anchorage, the climber holds himself to the face with either ropes or tapes of known strength. These may be made up into etriers (three-step ladders) and suspended on a fifi hook, or into a harness to take the strain leaving the arms and legs free to make the moves, or else used as straight lengths between climbers for security. The karabiners are snap links and are used as connectors between equipment. With the advancement in metallurgy the alloy used in their manufacture is now very light, thus a greater number may be carried. Climbs have been described using forty alloy karabiners and a like number of pitons, etc.; this gives some idea of the amount of gear used. In alpine literature prussiking is often mentioned. This is a method of climbing up a suspended rope using sliding loops attached or knotted in such a way as to grip when taking the climber's weight. Prussiking is used extensively on long climbs, such as the Eiger face, to regain height after rest periods and to bring supplies and new climbers to carry on the ascent. Besides the mechanical aids, the artificial climb demands considerable personal ability. Physically it requires a high degree of general strength and fitness with specific development of the wrists, fingers and ankles. It demands a willingness to contort the body into positions where pain mav be experienced and a preparedness to hold such positions for long periods. It also demands ability to endure exposure for hours or even days to the mercy of the weather. This may call for a large degree of mental control, and it is certain that the extended artificial climb requires great will power and strength of character. Throughout the climb this is maintained not only by the leader while planning, making decisions and acting on them, but also by the seconds on the rope, while maintaining constant vigilance throughout, belaying, providing security, and remaining alert even through the long periods of comparative inactivity. Both the leader and the seconds must have full knowledge of each other's ability, strengths and weaknesses. When you read of climbs at , the Grampians or Buffalo Gorge, of flags placed on buildings, or of the completion of an Eiger ascent, you may be sure that climbers somewhere have been hammering home pitons, swinging in etriers, and prussiking up full pitches. You may be sure that skin has been scraped from fingers, and muscles are tired and weakened, and that somewhere there are climbers fully relaxed after having surmounted the insurmountable. Meanwhile when you come to that rock outcrop, remember: judge the climb, plan your route and ensure your return. 30 You'll Love TASMANIA for Your Next HOLIDAY

In Tasmania you will find majestic mountains and tranquil lakes • • • secluded bays and sundrencbed beaches • • • cool green busblands and sparkling mountain streams ••• in fact, all the holiday maker could wish for.

FOR FULL DETAILS CALL OR WRITE THE TASMANIAN GOVERNMENT TOURIST BUREAU MELBOURNE, 254 COLLINS STREET, Tel.: 63 6351.

SYDNEY: 129 King Street. LAUNCESTON: Cnr. Pater~on/St . John Sta. ADELAIDE: 32A King William Street. DEVONPORT: 41 Stewart Street. BRISBANE: Cnr. Adelaide/Creek Sis. BURNIE: Cnr. Mount/Wilmot Stl. HOBART: Cnr. Macquarle/ Murray Streets.

31 COLOUR ME GREY By Michael Griffin Flinders Island is located among the debris-strewn waters that lie between Tasmania and Victoria. Its size, about 35 miles by 15 miles, allows it to occupy the dominant position in the Furneaux Group. For all its smallness, Flinders Island contains a wealth of mountains, and a chain of these surround the main town of Whitemark, situated on the west coast. Mount Arthur rises up to the north, Mount Leven­ thorpe and Pillingers Peak to the east, and the crowning glory of the 2,550 ft. Strzelecki Peaks to the south. The roads are unsealed and predominate along the west side of the island, linking Palana near the northern tip, to Lady Barron in the south. A party of Melbourne Bushwalkers invaded Flinders Island during an Easter holiday weekend. It is an island worth invading, and this soon became apparent as the noisy DC-3 droned its way towards the airfield, about two miles north of Whitemark. With the northern edge of Tasmania providing a backdrop beyond wispy clouds, rugged mountains in the foreground heralded the nearness of the airfield. Mount Killiecrankie slid past under the wing and then we were over the open waters of Marshall Bay. Another lump of land and more sea as we swept out over the ocean in preparation for the landing, and finally down on the island with much popping of ears and sighs of relief. The packs were trundled out of the plane and we accompanied them across to the small building that served as an airport. Clearance was speedily granted, with the result that we were soon ready to investigate the island. Having got everybody safely down on the target area, I should pause and fill in a few details. Three details are relevant at this point in time, and they will be dealt with immediately: the leader, the lorry and the weather. Because the leader is animate, I will consider him first. His name is Rex Filson and Flinders Island nearly finished him off. A veteran of many walks, Mr. Filson had long been an active member of M.B.W. No one quite knows what decided him to tackle Flinders, but his undying spirit of adventure was undoubtedly a complicating factor. The important thing to remember about Rex is that he encourages bad weather- it follows him around like a two-day old lamb after its mother. He has broken many droughts in his time, and so you can imagine what sort of an effect his presence was to have on a naturally soggy place like Flinders Island. Secondly, I will introduce you to the lorry. It too was inextricably entangled with Rex and bad weather. In appearance it was somewhat dilapidated, more accustomed to carrying sand and gravel, one would think, than to converting itself into a bus for lazy walkers. The tray was hard, flat and roofless. I have vague memories of an inefficient tarpaulin that served not so much to deflect any stray rain, but rather to channel it into mindless lakes and rivers which would suddenly break their banks and drown the utterly miserable devil beneath. I need only add that the lorry was waiting for us at the airport. This of course neatly links it to the rain and Rex, because all three were in fact waiting at the airport. The scene is now set. Imagine, if you can, one lorry slowly making its way north along a rapidly decaying road, such decomposition being hastened beyond comprehension by the worst attack of rain that has 32 Poirt.o. ;,_~ -. ~- ?··~/'=::­ _..,,~~·~ ..~ -3:/:~ L.ookou l Hi.t\

rURN!.AUX 0 ' St"J..\. IH M\ J..L\

ever been experienced. The poor miserable fools on the back of the lorry are slowly drowning beneath parkas and other supposedly waterproof rainwear which they have erected in a flimsy web of protection. Each time that the road departs temporarily from the horizontal, the water trapped beneath the umbrella of parkas swishes threateningly from side to side, totally destroying yet another set of dry underwear. Needless to say, the leader is sitting snugly in the cabin. It is difficult to remember much about that journey north. The rain came down in sheets, unbroken and unending, setting a pattern for the days to come. A host of sore and waterlogged walkers eventually quit the lorry somewhere in the far north of Flinders Island and sought refuge for the night. The places visited have almost faded from memory, but I remember vividly standing on a large rock slab gazing out over an awesome Killiecrankie Bay. The driving wind was beating up the waves into thin egg-white threads of spray which danced their short life drunkenly and 33 unpredictably on its shoulders. The wind gave them ephemeral life and sudden, slamming death. The rocky walls of the bay were alive with h-elter-skelter sheets of rain, veiled in shifting, diagonally-diving mists of spray. Colour me grey. Later, another stop, another day. With half the party imprisoned by the weather in a large hall, the remainder struggled to the coast through sand-dune vegetation. One geological hammer slowly and painstakingly prising lovely red lichens from cold grey rocks, and then suddenly a whole coastline of the same red lichen on similar grey rock, towering up from the prancing water in a solid wall of fluted colour. Rex was dismal and the rain was insistent. The lorry carried us from watermark A to watermark B, and finally to the Strzeleckis. The rain, in a misguided moment of mercy, eased up and the sun almost came out. We reached the foot of the mountain and crossed an insignificant excuse for a stream, setting up camp on the surrounding flat. A few, arriving too late to partake of the nice level ground, had to make do with sloping ground further up. They were lucky. We began to climb the Strzeleckis. The party soon became strung out like the chicken in chicken noodle soup. At one point there was a very steep section with loose earth that had been severely devastated by the front-line men. When I arrived, Nick was contemplating the proposition dubiously and several were going through the process of giving up. It is quite probable that the sun came out at this moment, because we were suddenly inspired. Rapidly climbing past the steep section, I turned to see Nick following and we both regained the horizontal track without incident. By this time the others in front were out of sight, almost at the top. Nick and I lost the track at a crucial rock face and plunged into a dank, extremely moist fern gully. As this event coincided with lunch time we decided to stop, but the sudden lack of movement evidently startled the elements, for it immediately began to rain and the moist fern gully held out its arms to mother. While we were sitting disconsolate in our lunch spot, the others had managed to attain the summit. John Siseman later told me that the view was magnificent, and he immediately turned away to prepare his camera for its capture. Lo! When he turned back, thirty seconds later, the view had disappeared behind a uniform grey wall and the skies once again opened their valves. Rain on Flinders Island as everyone turned tail and scampered to the bottom. A shouting exhibition succeeded in reuniting Nick and I with the summit-walkers and we all arrived back at camp together. Tea was hastily prepared and consumed, and sturdy tents soon received their sleepy owners. The darkness covered all and peace descended, save for the quiet burbling of our little stream and the steady splosh of the falling rain. At about midnight, John uttered a strangled shriek and started raving incoherently about a little insignificant stream that was now six yards wide and covered with foam. It was apparently threatening to carry away his tent. Once aroused, John's fellow flat-dwellers found themselves in the same predicament. Rex was heartily abused and started organizing flood relief. Being one of the foresighted individuals who had pitched camp high on the bank, I was now rewarded with the sight of a bleary-eyed Rex leering at me through the tent flap, with a severely retarded torch clasped grimly in his hand. It became clear that he wished to billet one of the wet ones in my nice warm tent, and the remainder of the night passed with several tents chronically overcrowded. 34 Mount Kllliecrenkle. Photo by Rex Filson.

The morning light filtered gradually through the trees and rain. The party was now widely separated and Rex attempted to locate everyone. By far the most interel>ting find was Nick, still asleep in his tent on the flat. He had not awakened during the night and his tent was now the receptacle for about fifty per cent of the raging stream. Unfortunately, no water could be seen emerging from the other end. As we approached, Nick began emitting noises which resembled a good throaty gargle-he was evidently trying to tell us that his billy had been swept away by the nasty water. The party gradually regained its sanity, and the time came to meet up with the contingent who had wisely spent their time at Lady Barron. The airport was soon sighted and the small building became the tin for some very cold and wet sardines. Morale improved at the thought of the imminent return to civilization, but immediately plunged to zero when it was announced that our plane could not land. Hurried phone calls to Melbourne and a free night at the local hotel. Whitemark was renamed Watermark and the barman insisted on giving away free drinks. The beds were comfortable but the morning was certainly not. Drizzle as a prelude to our last few hours on the island, but some of us set out for a walk along the beach. The wind blew the rain across the sand, ruffling the seaweed and shells; the grey sky merged into the grey land and the grey sea, but the monotone was gloriously, perversely pleasant. Finally, at the edge of the beach. a bakery with beautiful bready smells and hot egg-and-bacon pies. Two please, and an apple turnover! Munch along the pummelled sand, back to the sardine-tin building and a plane approaching through the haze. Splash of wheels on the lake runway, spray colliding with spray. Dash across the concrete and say hello to the smiling hostess. Just a little more fuel and we're off, leaving behind our beautiful grey Easter island. If you find Nick's billy, please don't throw it away-we'll be back ... one day. 35 YOUTH HOSTELS ASSOCIATION OF VICTORIA

YHA- Has Youth Hostels at:-Broadford, Sleiglitz, Warburton, Mt. Baw Baw, Mt. Buller, Warrandyte, Napoleons, Geelong and Melbourne. YHA- Members may use over 60 hostels in other Stales of Australia and over 4000 hostels in some 45 countries overseas. YHA- Activities in Victoria include:-Bushwalking, Sailing, Horseriding, Snow Skiing, Water Skiing, Camping. YHA- Annual Membership Fees are:-Senior (over 21 years), $4.00 (plus $1 .00 joining fee); Junior (under 21 years), $2.00 (plus $1.00 joining fee); Family, $6.00 (plus $1.00 joining fee) ; School (full-time 17 and under) $1.00. YHA- 3 DRUMMOND STREET, CARLTON, VIC., 3053 - Phone 34 6282

To the Honorary Secretary, Youth Hostels Association of Victoria, 3 Drummond St., Carlton, Vic., 3053. Please send me further information about YHA, plus...... membership application forms for myself and friends. NAME ...... ADDRESS ...... -················-······························

I am interested in TRAVEL 0. ACTIVITIES 0· "Walk" 70.

36 Cheds are in great shape

Anew slender look and a ~ new "better protection" pack That's right. Cheds. The savoury cracker topped with grilled continental type cheese. Cheds. Cheesier than ever. With a new slim line. Biteable. Crisp. Crunchy. Tasty. Cheds. Eat them neat. Or added to. Long and slim - in a new pack that gives better protection. Look for the new pack now.

Cheds - baked oven-crisp by BROCKHOFF 3224 THE BATTLE OF THE BIOSPHERE By Judith Wright McKinney

A science-fiction title? No-though ten years ago it might have sounded like one. This battle is really on. Some eight years ago I became involved in it in a minor and piecemeal way. With a few others, I helped start a magazine (WILDLIFE in Australia) and a society called the Wildlife Preservation Society of Queensland. The title is now getting rather outdated by events; the battle, which at that time looked like a sideline engagement, is part of the most important, perhaps fatal, crisis of our time. It has turned out to imply far more than just a battle for a few nature-reserves, for the saving of a few threatened species, or more even than a rescue-operation for the Great Barrier Reef or the beaches of Queensland. The larger battle of which it is part extends to the whole of the biosphere, the thin covering of living organisms supported by earth, air, water and sunlight; and to win it will imply a change of attitude in ourselves so drastic that it may never be won. We have always been predators, armed only with our wits and a pair of clawless hands; but as consciousness emerged those weapons became more and more deadly. It's a legitimate cause for pride that we overcame those other predators that might have wiped us out. Wolves, lions, tigers and the rest of them are no more than curiosities now, where they have managed to survive; we are safe from all but the worst of the elemental disasters, and we are largely in control of bacteria and viruses (though our present overcrowding of the world may give some adaptable strain new chances). For the rest, we have conquered jungles, learned to live in polar and equatorial regions, taken over all the lands we can at present cultivate, and are increasing far faster than any species near our size has ever done. But in the process we are altering the checks and balances of the whole biosphere, and doing it in ways that have more and more unpredictable side-effects. Only over the past few decades have we begun to realise that our proliferation, industrialization, and increasingly terrible technological weapons have put us in the position of masters over the earth with powers of life and death over the nature of which we are part. So many aspects of the problem are emerging, and many of them are so unexpected, that we can be excused for being bewildered. Problems of soil erosion, and the exhaustion of soils through exposure and unwise use, have long been known, but we still know little of chemical and bacterial interaction and the function of soil-living organisms. Our increasing water-problems drive us to water-conservation schemes, but these change water-tables and drainage patterns and destroy wetlands which are important breeding and living areas for fish and birds. The constant and increasing wash of fertilisers and insecticides into streams, lakes and finally the ocean causes pollution which has chain-reactions on freshwater and sea organisms, and probably is already affecting ourselves. (Nitrite poisoning from ingestion of fertiliser has been identified as an important medical problem in the United States.) The dumping of industrial and human wastes into streams cause massive fish-kills, and these are easily observed, but the deterioration of living conditions for smaller organisms which are food for fish is equally destructive and not so obvious. 38 Discharge of detergents into streams is well-known to be damaging, but we are doing nothing about it; the newer detergent types are more or less non-bio-degradable (can be ingested but cannot be broken down by living organisms); a letter on this subject to a chemical firm elicited the answer that the need for bio-degradable detergents in Australia has not been proved. Wastes from mining operations are often allowed to pollute water, and can cause "aquatic deserts". Silt from beach-sand mining destroys fish and littoral life; dissolvable chemicals do the same (look at the problems caused by tin-mining wastes from the Captain's Flat operations near Canberra, for instance). One of the worst modern forms of pollution is caused by oil spillage into water. Petrochemicals such as benzine and toluene, which are dissolvable, are especially poisonous and persist as toxins in water for long periods. They can accumulate in living tissues in many marine animals, even at sub-lethal levels. As for "cleaning-up" oil slicks, the present methods are more destructive than the oil itself. (Their use was forbidden in the case of the off-shore blow-out in Californian waters.) And small frequent spills from ships, tankers, and refineries on waterways, which are not spectacular enough to attract attention, are going on all the time. These can accumulate over years into an even bigger problem than that caused by single large spills that do get into the news. We have got into the habit of building industrial complexes near waterways and discharging their wastes into streams, which are regarded as natural drains. Organic wastes from dairy factories, tanneries, meatworks, sugar-mills, paper-mills, etc., set off an interesting chain of cause and effect: first, a huge increase in the micro-organisms which live on proteins and carbo-hydrates, then a decrease in the dissolved oxygen in the water, which these aerobic organisms need to live and which is also necessary for fish and other organisms; finally, when the pollution level is high enough, a "dead stream" in which anaerobic organisms produce the characteristic smell of hydrogen sulphide, which is a poisonous gas. Then we begin to complain; but by that time the living creatures are dead, or have moved away, and we have a cesspool on our hands. This has happened, or is happening, in most of the important water­ ways in Europe and the United States. The Great Lakes are almost lifeless; the Swiss Jakes, especially the Lake of Geneva, support little or no aquatic life; great rivers like the Rhine in their lower regions are very highly polluted. All this is discharged into the seas, and since continental shelves are by far the most important breeding-grounds for fish, the problem is obviously only beginning to show up. Radio-active wastes are especially menacing, both in air and water. Even sub-lethal concentrations build up in tissues and cause deterioration of reproduction processes. Here, it is said that, though the Cape Keraudren project has been shelved, it will be "possible" to use nuclear blasts for dams and harbour projects. The Richmond Shire Council in Queensland, hit by drought, wants nuclear explosives to blast a huge irrigation dam; physicists and biochemists have reacted with horror and alarm, but politicians are talking in different terms. They want nuclear power­ stations, though experience overseas has been hardly reassuring. Accidents are bound to happen, plan as we may. As for uranium mining, wastes and debris have got into the water-supplies of a number of states in the U.S., and though the Public Health Department has taken some action, it seems to have been, as usual, too little and too late. 39 THE SCOUT SHOP The recognised place to purchase your Bushwalking and Lightweight Camping Equipment.

See THE SCOUT SHOP Range of: Sleeping Bags. H-Frames and A-Frames. Hike Tents. Paddymade Bushwalking Gear. Hike Boots. Ground Sheets and Capes. Australian and New Zealand Parkas. Knife, Fork and Spoon Sets. Mess Kits. Canteens. Lightweight Gas Cookers. Food Containers. Flinders Ranges Camping Gear. Compasses (all Silva models).

FOR ALL HIKING AND CAMPING EQUIPMENT call at THE SCOUT SHOP first.

Ballarat Shop: 40 Armstrong St. South, Ballarat. Phone: 25832 Bayside Shop: 134 Martin St., Gardenvale. Phone: 961033 Bendigo Shop: 163 Mitchell St., Bendigo. East Suburban Shop: 4 Woods St., Nunawading. Phone: 878 9058 Hoadley Shop: 62a Pascoe Vale Rd., Moonee Ponds. Phone: 37 8246 Melbourne Shop: 384 Elizabeth St., Melbourne, Phone: 34 8041 Somers Shop: 125 Station St., Malvern. Phone: 501878 Sunraysia Shop: 156 Eighth St., Mildura. Phone: 30828 Yarra Batman Shop: 177 Burgundy St., Heidelberg. Phone: 45 1753

40 ~ wallcqbout Wllh

Weggs Packs contain the equivalent of 4 whole eggs in Powder form Which may be reconstituted by simply adding a cup of water or milk to contents after having made a smooth Paste by mixing the Powder With a little of the milk or water. Make delicious omelettes . .. scrambled eggs, fried scones.

., ble from Hubbies, Nancarrowsand Boy Scout & Sh o ps . PermewanAva/ a Stores, Myers

41 There are other sources of pollution as well, some perhaps not yet identified; and the result is a steady and increasing worsening of the conditions for life itself. This deterioration shows up first, of course, at the level where the great energy interchanges begin-the bacterial, algal and micro-levels on which everything else depends. It shows up later in man, probably, since the generations of micro-organisms and smaller wildlife breed millions of times faster than we do and absorb pollution much quicker. But already a Mayo Clinic medical authority believes that human deaths from poisoning by petro-chemicals and insecticides are now greater than those from road-accidents. Many of these pollutants are proved to be carcinogenic. It is difficult to estimate the number of human deaths and illnesses caused in these ways, since there are not many foolproof methods of diagnosis as yet. But the poisoning of our total environment through chemical and organic wastes is measurable, and it is increasing. Here in Australia, we haven't very high levels of air and water pollution as yet, and if we are willing to learn, we have the chance of applying controls before they are forced on us. But it won't, even now, be an easy job. The Senate Committees of inquiry into some of the problems are a good start at identifying some of the worst cases; whether we can or will act on the information is another question. We have a fine easy habit of making inquiries and reports and leaving it at that. What about the land-use problems-soils, forests and wildlife? Our record again is very unreassuring. In Australia there is the major example of what we have done, and are still doing, to the marginal and sub­ marginal inland pastures that support a very large proportion of our grazing flocks and herds. We moved into them only late last century. Already our introduction of hoofed animals and the rabbit have massively altered the former delicate balance of arid-adapted plants and animals, and set off an "advance of the desert" that takes a further step with every drought. About this we are doing practically nothing. On the coastal strip, we have raped the forests pretty thoroughly, and the soils they built up have been mismanaged so that water and wind-erosion have stripped them of much of their fertility, and silted our rivers. Introduced weeds keep farmers fighting for a living, and weeds mean expensive chemical-spraying programmes (more pollution). Where we have done away with the native trees, we plant huge areas of introduced pines instead. These are soil-exhausting mono-crops in which very few native animals and birds can make a living-ecological deserts. Now comes the woodchip industry, with its concept of Total Tree-use and its capacity for using native eucalyptus hitherto too small or too diverse for foresters to bother with. Many of these remaining forests clothe steep slopes and hold them against erosion; they are protecting watersheds and drainage patterns. They will vanish, and vanish on a massive scale, and when they go, weed-growth and erosion will follow. But as they go, they bring in a quick dollar, and that's what counts. The list of our misdeeds is formidable enough to dismay even the fastest talkers who try to justify or minimise them. But it is all part of one big world-wide process, the Quiet Crisis of our time-not newsworthy, often unnoticed because gradual, but accelerating with its own momentum. The fact is that we just don't know what we are doing in any one aspect of the problem, Jet alone overall. We do know, now, that all life, including our own, is interdependent, as well as dependent on sunlight, air, water and soils-that any action taken in one place may have unexpected repercussions in another. But the science of ecology 42 is a very recent one; it involves the study of these interdependencies, but most of them are still largely unknown, and may only be perceivable when we have already interfered clumsily enough to cause obvious damage. In effect, we are carrying on a world-wide experiment on nature itself that amounts to vivisection. But we are making money out of it, for we are cashing in on age-old natural capital reserves of minerals, soils, plants and animals. So the danger-signals are going to be ignored as long as possible, and maybe longer. With the success of our medical and health-schemes, and food-aid programmes to the poorer countries, populations everywhere are exploding upwards, even where there is clearly not enough food to support them. We trust science to solve all this­ since science created it; but our spaceship has its limitations, and we are coming up against them. The fact is that we are faced with the biggest transformation in ourselves since the birth of consciousness. We have to cease being predators and become managers. If we are to do this, we must first manage ourselves, and this looks like being the biggest problem of all. For compared to our ancestors, whose development of consciousness and thought have landed us now with the world at our feet, we have it soft And we feel we have a right to have it soft, and even softer. There's plenty of wealth around, and plenty of food, and it's for us. As for the future, it can take care of itself. Most of us live in cities, and don't notice that the cities depend on what is outside them. Cities are highly organized, industrially and economically; and their institutions-business, government, education, public service and the rest -are not nearly as adaptable as the individual himself is. They take a long time to change with changing circumstances, and they are hard to convince that change is needed. How are you going to convince, say, directors and shareholders in oil companies of the need to exercise choice in the areas of oil-search, so as to minimise ecological damage? Or to devote a very much bigger proportion of their profits to research into ways of preventing and cleaning up oil spills before damage is caused? Or get shipping companies to accept longer and less economical shipping routes so that important reefs and beaches are spared the danger of such spills by tankers and other ships? Or change our present educational emphasis so that everyone learns about the need for individual responsibility in the conservation of our earth? And these are small and piecemeal approaches to the problem. It's a challenge, and one whose size and shape bring us hard up against, not only the whole direction of our past development, but even against our genetic equipment and natural impulses. We have generated plenty of other problems which look more sensational, more interesting, more attractively immediate. Political, eco­ nomic, social, important-looking problems that demand attention and get into the news. This problem doesn't get into the news, except when somebody makes an extra-big mistake-guides a tanker onto a rock off a highly-populated coastline, or allows oil-drilling that causes an extra-big blowout with obvious severe economic and biological results. Cumulative long-term damage grinds slowly on; but it grinds relentlessly, and the pace is speeding up. Meanwhile, the earth deteriorates in ways we hardly observe. It is difficult to remember what this landscape, that beach, looked like ten or twenty years ago; the young don't know in any case. Trees, forests vanish; with them go the populations of insects, birds and animals they supported; marginal areas become potential dust-bowls; industrial and 43 other wastes go on pouring into air and water; perhaps no living organism now does not carry somewhere in its tissues traces of residual insecticides. Beautiful, interesting and potentially valuable species vanish, while we fail to make nearly enough reserves of natural land for our future recreation, let alone species survival. Aesthetically and otherwise, the "progress from wilderness to dump-heap" is bad for our mental, psycho­ logical and even physical health. But we don't notice it; and it is not to the interest of a society bent on industrialization and exploitation to notice it. To do anything about it will cost money and mean inconvenience. It will need planning, research, a massive reallocation of resources. Are there any takers for that?

This article is republished with the kind permission of the author and the editor of the journal OUTLOOK in which it originally appeared.

BOOKS FOR BUSHVVALKERS

ROPE AND RUCKSACK. Edited by John Davis. Syd .• Angus and Robertson, 1969. Price $4.50.

The rucksack sports in Australia have been sadly neglected by publishers. Rope and Rucksack is the first book attempting to give the amateur an insight into these. A quarto-sized book, it has contributions by well known New South Wales outdoor personalities such as John Davis, Ted Hartley and Colin Putt. That great friend of all bushwalkers, Paddy Pallin, has provided the chapter on Ski Touring and checked the text of the Bushwalking section. The seven rucksack sports, i.e. bushwalking, rockclimbing, canoeing, canyoning, caving, ski touring and cascading, are repeated. However the emphasis is placed on rockclimbing, bushwalking and ski touring. The chapters on the other four sports serve as an introduction to these lesser known activities, giving enough interesting facts to assist the beginner. The enthusiast would need to look elsewhere for additional information about them. The three sports described in detail are accompanied by excellent diagrams and photographs illustrating various terms used in the text. Under Bushwalking is explained how to read a map, how to plan extended trips, and the equipment and clothing required. The article on Rock­ climbing thoroughly and explicitly demonstrates climbing techniques and the care and use of gear. A valuable glossary of climbing terms is included. The section on Ski Touring, a relatively new sport to Australia, has such details as choosing a snow campsite, snowcraft and helpful hints on what to do under emergency conditions. The book has a useful chapter on Rucksack Medicine, suitably illustrated by clear line drawings. The four pages on Foods to Carry are also very handy. Rope and Rucksack contains 31 pages of black and white photographs. Unfortunately many of these have been touched up, no doubt in the belief that they would be made clearer. This seems to have spoilt otherwise good pictures. 44 The best travel souvenirs are color pictures!

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45 NATURALIST'S DIARY, by Norman A. Wakefield. Melb., Longmans of Aust. Pty. Ltd. Price $4.50.

Readers of the Melbourne newspaper "The Age" will know that the naturalist is Norman A. Wakefield and that the diary is the weekly feature that appears every Monday morning, offering a share in his enjoyment and knowledge of the Australian bush. A selection of the articles, which have appeared regularly over a number of years, is now available in book form. Eighty-two articles have been chosen over a period of eighteen months and arranged into sections. These cover such topics as Places, Mammals, Bird Life and so on. The book has been given the same title as that of the newspaper feature, Naturalist's Diary, and it is hoped that it will be the first of a number of volumes. The articles chosen deal with a wide range of natural history generally applicable to the south-eastern region of the continent. The items are fairly evenly balanced; 14 on plants, 17 on mammals, 17 on birds, 16 on insects, 6 on spiders and reptiles. It is probably the remaining section, which incidentally is the first in the book, which should hold prime interest for bushwalking readers. This is the section on Places, covering twelve separate items. Here is a quick glance at the list: Reedy River Gorge . .. Den of the Nargun ... Mount Drummer ... Wombargo .. . Rodger River ... . .. Moroka ... Snowy River Gorge . . . and others. Many of these places were hardly known until the appearance of the original articles. Although they are mostly much easier to visit nowadays, there are still many walkers who are unfamiliar with them. For these people and others who are looking for areas further afield to explore, this section should prove an interesting and authoritative introduction. It is not a coincidence that most of the places mentioned in this and other sections refer to the region of East Gippsland. It is this part of the State with which the author has had most personal involve­ ment since early boyhood. He has now become an authority on the topography and natural history of the area. East Gippsland, let it also be noted, is one of the last parts of Victoria which contains large tracts of uncleared country. So far much of the scenery has been safeguarded by its own ruggedness as well as by remoteness and difficulty of access. Already there are changes, as new forestry roads bite deeper into the ranges or gnaw further through the vast coastal forests. Under these circumstances, it is not surprising to learn that portions of the area have not been thoroughly investigated until recent years. It is in this connection that the author's bushwalking capabilities are respected when the reader is led, in print, on excursions into the deep gorges such as those of the Buchan and Snowy Rivers, stopping every now and then to investigate some shrub or plant flowering high on a rocky ledge, or scrambling through crevice and scrub searching for any traces of wildlife. It is not all hard going, and there is always the break along the track to enjoy the general scenery while the billy boils. It should be stressed that many other sections of the book are applicable to other parts of the State, and in fact cover specific areas ranging from Melbourne's gardens to the Little Desert. All the matter is attractively laid out, well indexed, and plentifully supplied with illustrations of the first quality. Altogether this is a book that all bushwalkers will want to keep handy for purposes of both reference and pleasure. 46 ORCHIDS OF AUSTRALIA: the complete edition drawn in natural colour, by W. H. Nicholls. Edited by D. L. Jones and T. B. Muir. Melb., Thomas Nelson (Aust.) Ltd., 1969. Price $30.00. Boxed.

Of all the native flowers seen in the bush the ones that most attract the interest of the bushwalker are the orchids. There are 750 species of orchids in Australia, most of which are endemic. These belong to 90 genera of which about 20 are found only in Australia. Their unusual flowers are often seen mingled with the herbs on the forest floor or in contrast to the grasses on the hillsides. An ex-member of our club, Bruce Muir, has collaborated with D. L. Jones to edit this new edition of Nicholls' Orchids of Australia, which makes available for the first time in one volume a definitive collection of the author's work. Will Nicholls' formal education was only at primary level. With a great interest in Australian orchids, he felt the need for a comprehensive authoritative work describing these particular plants. He taught himself painting and enough Latin to compose formal descriptions of the many undescribed species that he found. Every painting was done from a fresh specimen, each plate consisting of a natural sized illustration together with numerous dissections of remarkably accurate detail. It was intended to publish the collection in 25 parts, including 600 plates at a cost of approximately $360, but only four parts were issued. This one-volume edition has had to be modified in order to place it in a more realistic price range. The 476 plates, illustrating almost 400 species, have been separated from the text and bound together at the back of the book. This, makes reference a little more difficult. The keys to the figures are printed below the plates, which is much better than the original method of placing them on the page opposite. The colours compare reasonably with Nicholls' paintings, which are as near to nature as water colour pigments permit. This allows accurate iden­ tification of a specimen by comparing it with the plate. The text includes units of measurements, abbreviations, a glossary of terms and a useful key to genera. The keys to specimens, which were printed in the first publication, have been omitted because they were so out of date. Although this volume seems a little pricy, its value lies in its wealth of information, precise descriptions and the magnificent colour plates. For the identification of the majority of orchids, this complete edition is the only work you need to consult.

AUSTRALIAN EUCALYPTS, by Mervyn Millett. Periwinkle Colour Series. Melb., Lansdowne Press, 1969. Price $1.25.

A pocket-sized reference book to serve as an introduction for the identification of eucalypts. It is a selection of the most common eucalypts from each State. The excellent introduction discusses the historical collections by early explorers and botanists. The book briefly outlines the uses and pests of these plants. It has a comprehensive glossary and a long list of books for further reading on the subject. Each species is described in detail with distributional notes referable by number to a map. Each is illustrated by a black and white or coloured photograph, plus a line drawing of the buds and fruits. The photographic reproduction is generally poor, but this is compensated by the price of the publication. 47 MOUNTAIN MUSTER The year 1969 was a time of increased activity for the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs. One development is that now smaller clubs and other bodies are invited to join as Associate Members, thus allowing them to enjoy some of the benefits of affiliation with the Federation without being obliged to partake in its activities to the same extent as larger clubs. Undoubtedly the largest single project undertaken by the Federation was the erection of a new hut on . After an appeal for funds, and a somewhat protracted period of discussion and negotiation, permission was given and construction began in February 1969. A Tourist Development Grant of $3,200 allowed the use of a helicopter which lifted in a lot of the material from . Incidentally, this is the first time for many years that such a large grant has been made by the State Government for bushwalking purposes, outside that for National Parks. It must also be said here that it was the energy of a relatively small group of enthusiasts that enabled the prefabrication of the hut and its subsequent erection on site in time to be available to skiers and mountaineers for the coming winter season. Of course, the safety and comfort provided by the hut is also available to summer walkers. The old Feathertop Hut, despite its generally dilapidated condition, is said to be capable of offering some degree of shelter. Lately the Forests Commission have cleared the Feathertop Track, removing the logs that previously blocked it. Is Mount Feathertop in danger? Well, Conzinc Riotinto of Australia (CRA) holds the prospecting and mining rights to the mountain- and for a good deal of the rest of the Eastern Highlands as well. In regard to the high country, Mr. M. J. Harkins, Director of the Tourist Development Authority, asked the Federation for a draft proposal for a system of mountain trails, which possibly would link with a similar network in N.S.W. A Federation sub-committee has been set up to sort out suggestions and to generally study the matter. For some time it has been felt that there is a need of a recognised standard for persons leading bushwalking or mountaineering trips, par­ ticularly when schoolchildren or other young people of similar age groups are involved. It was in view of this concern that the idea of a Mountain Leadership Certificate was proposed. This has been put into effect, and a Training Board, responsible to the National Fitness Council, has been appointed to administer the course necessary to attain the certificate. "The mighty Bush with iron rails/is tethered to the world." When Henry Lawson wrote those words a large section of the land as he knew it was indeed laced with networks of tramways and light railways in order to exploit to the fullest the natural wealth of the country. An aim of the Ligbt Railway Research Society of Australia is to foster an interest in a section of Australian history that has been too easily forgotten. Another aim is the preservation of the old tracks, such as in the Powell­ town area, and features such as the railway bridge at Walhalla. The Society's program includes walks along the old tracks as well as visits to lines in use. In May 1969, the Perth Bushwalkers held their first walk. They claim to be the first club in W.A. to regularly program overnight walks. 48 GO WITH

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49 METRIC SCALE MAPS The last two years have seen great changes in the method of presen­ tation of topographic maps. Totally gone now are the old 1 in. = 1 mile and 2 in. = 1 mile series. Current maps being produced by the Army, National Mapping, and the Lands Department are all in metric scales, i.e., 1:50,000, 1:100,000, and 1:250,000. The Lands Department and National Mapping are also issuing their 1:50,000 and 1:100,000 series maps with metric contours and a metric grid. To date the Army has not published any maps with contours and a metric grid. To help the map user convert metric contours to feet the Lands Department has added a vertical height conversion scale whereby direct comparison of feet and metres can be made. Thus those who have forgotten how to convert feet to metres can look at the scale and find that, for example, 2,000 metres equals 6,562 feet. In 1966 a new set of figures altered the position of the Sydney Observatory upon which Australia's latitudes and longitudes are based. It was found that the latitude and longitude were in the wrong place; they should have been approximately 17 5 yards further east and 73 yards further south. This of course altered all the mapsheet boundaries and could cause some confusion for people trying to join various mapsheets together, as there would be an overlap on some sheets and a gap on others, since maps conforming to both determinations are readily available. An example of this is the Yea and Alexandra 1:50,000 sheets. The Army issued Yea under the old sheet corner positions, the Lands Department issued Alexandra under the new sheet comer positions, so that there is a 175-yard gap between the adjoining sheet edges. Right in the centre of this unmapped gap the railway line goes through a tunnel; consequently, this tunnel is not shown on either map and will not appear until Yea is redrawn to conform to the new sheet corners. However, this is an excep­ tional case; in most instances the gap or overlap will not be readily apparent to the user. Concerning the 1:50,000 series, the Army has been publishing sheets with foot contours and a yard grid (the old determination). To come into line with the current National Mapping policy, it is expected to change to metric contours and metric grid (the new determination) in the future. The Lands Department has now swung over completely to metric contours on a metric grid. There was a change-over period and for a while maps were being published with foot contours and metric grid, foot contours with yards grid and new determination sheet corners, and all sorts of peculiar combinations. These were the result of a backlog of unpublished material already drawn up at different scales and photo­ graphically reduced to 1 :50,000. All these maps are in the form of dye­ lines and are provisional compilations only. None of them has been field-checked so they show only the information that can be seen on the aerial photographs, which could be anything up to ten years old. The provisional compilations covering the Mallacoota 1 :250,000 area are an exception as the tracks shown on the Forests Commission of Victorian maps of the area have been interpolated into the Lands Depart­ ment maps; however, only a few of these sheets have been published as yet. Although the earlier sheets were difficult to read because they were all one colour, later sheets have been greatly improved by the masking back of the contours so that the streams and detail stand out from the contours. 50 YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO VISIT MELBOURNE'S LATEST MAPPING AND GUIDE CENTRE

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51 Little has been published at 1:100,000 as yet. This apparently belies National Mapping's current policy to map Australia at a scale of 1:100,000. In fact, the various States are mapping their own areas (or portions thereoO and National Mapping is drawing and printing the work that the States are doing. Because of the newness of this system no great strides in this direction have as yet been made, but this position should improve in the coming year. The Lands Department does have a map series at 1:100,000 which totally covers Victoria (and this is the first time in Victoria's history that the whole State has been covered by a single scale). This is the "Fire Map" series, which was produced primarily for the Country Fire Authority (C.F.A.) to help co-ordinate the various bushfire-fighting units. It was compiled from all sources available. Some maps are excellent, although a bit difficult to read as they are only dyelines. These are Euroa, Whitfield, Buffalo, and Albury, providing the first really accurate maps of these areas ever printed. Information on the other C.F.A. maps is very sketchy and it is preferable to refer to maps from other sources if available. Victoria is also totally covered by the 1:250,000 series (4 miles = 1 inch). For touring by car this is a good up-to-date coverage, most being printed no earlier than 1965. This series now covers all of Australia also, and this is the first time that Australia has been accurately mapped at a reasonable scale. Most of the sheets have no contours but have hill shading instead, and this, especially in Central Australia, is quite adequate. You may purchase maps of anywhere in Australia at this scale from National Mapping Map Sales Section, 11th Floor, 460 Bourke Street, Melbourne. With the introduction of its 1:100,000 series, National Mapping has totally altered the method of road classification. Roads are now graded on their "intended national usage" instead of on road surface condition. National Mapping has based this new system on the work done by an organisation called the National Association of Australian State Road Authorities (NAASRA). Roads are now divided into four categories: Principal, Secondary, Minor, and Vehicular. A Principal road is defined as a "major connecting road between capital cities and key towns". The definitions of the other classifications are equally vague. However, National Mapping have produced a small map which shows all the Principal and Secondary roads in Australia. This leaves the remaining two classifi­ cations, Minor and Vehicular, to cover the vast bulk of Australia's roads. Since Vehicular is basically a classification covering jeep tracks only, it follows that Minor will cover everything else, ranging from good bitu­ men surfaces, through gravelled roads, to roads impassable in wet weather. At first sight this appears to be a crazily inadequate system, but it has to be borne in mind that it covers all of Australia. It is meant to give prominence to those roads which otherwise would not stand out on the map as being the major roads between various towns. For example, the Stuart Highway, linking Port Augusta and Alice Springs, would not stand out from the surrounding roads unless classified under this system, as it does not have a significantly better road surface than adjacent roads. Although this road system may be appropriate for the inland, Victoria is a totally different proposition. It has a well established and comprehensive network of roads covering its needs, without vast lengths of unsealed major highways. The best advice that can be offered to map users is that whenever you are using a 1:100,000 series of maps, always refer to the legend to determine whether the roads have been classified on their road surface or on their "intended road usage". This will help to eliminate any confusion. 52 WALKS SECTION AN EXTENDED CHRISTMAS WALK - MOUNT COBBLER - CROSSCUT SAW - MOUNT HOWITf - BRYCE'S GORGE - SNOWY PLAINS - THE WATCHTOWER - MOROKA RIVER - SNOWY BLUFF - MOUNT KENT RANGE - THE PINNACLE - CASTLE HILL - CASTLEBURN Duration: 12-13 days. Distance: About 120 miles. Water: Mention will be made when it is necessary to carry water. Transport: Train to Wangaratta, private transport (taxi) to Dandongadale River. Private transport (taxi) Castleburn to Sale, train from Sale. Food Cacbe: (6 days' food) at The Gorge is of great assistance. Maps: King·Howqua-Jamieson, VMTC, 1 in. = 1 mile. Moroka, Mines Department, 1 in = 1 mile. -Dargo, VMTC, 1 in. = 1 mile. Higbllgbts: Superb views from Mounts Cobbler, Speculation, Crosscut Saw, Howitt, Billygoat Bluff and The Pinnacles. Waterfalls on Dandongadale River (3), Mount Darling Creek, Carey Creek (3), Bryces Gorge, Piemans Creek, and Conglomerate Creek, Lookout Creek, Dingo Creek, Playboy Plains Creek, Snowy Bluff Creek (3), and Two Mile Creek. 1st Day Follow timber road up from Dandongadale River crossing. Good view of three waterfalls to the right of road. At the top of range there is a view of Cobbler Lake below; turn right and follow jeep track to far side. Camp on lake shores. To visit Dandongadale Falls, head north-north-west from hut at lake. Last section is along faint track on well-defined rocky spur. Top of main falls 800 yards from hut. Good views of deep valley from ledge above falls. To visit other falls, turn east and follow next creek down; return to hut. *(4t:4t) 2nd Day From Cobber Lake follow middle track south-south-west (not the one around lake or across creek westerly) at track junction, follow right­ hand track. At one and three-quarter miles reach Cobbler turnoff, cairn, and the word "Cobbler" cut into tree on right. Leave packs, follow track west and north-west to Cobbler Cairn, 5,324 ft. Return to packs. (5t miles return.) Continue on south 150 yards; follow left track at junction; in a further 200 yards reach road. Cross road and follow jeep track south­ east over knob with views over King Valley. Rejoin road and follow south-east to campsite below Mount Speculation. Good view towards The Razor over Catherine River Valley. Campsite is situated on a head of Catherine River; follow jeep track over creek turning left on to level jeep track. Eighty yards from corner look for green flats down to the left of track. (12!:17)

*4, day mileage: 4, total mileage. 53 3rd Day Leave Catherine River campsite, climb south-west on spur to summit of Mount Speculation, 5,650 ft. Splendid views from the top. Avoid the south-east spur, follow well-defined spur down south-west then south into a range gap just north of Mount Buggery. Avoid any side tracks off the range; climb steeply to the top of Mount Buggery. (2:f) Continue south-east and south over the 13 peaks of Crosscut Saw, passing the top of Stanley Name Spur at three and three-quarter miles. At Howitt North, (4t), leave packs, turn south-west and climb to the summit of Mount Howitt, 5,715 ft. Since leaving Mount Speculation, there have been numerous magnificent views along the Crosscut Saw into blue depths of Terrible Hollow, the King and Howqua Valleys. Return to packs, then follow the track east along the narrow Wonnangatta-Macalister Divide to Macalister Springs. Look for good views into Terrible Hollow from north side of rocky ridge (6). Follow jeep track south-east and south along the range avoiding jeep track leaving to the east-Wonnangatta Valley track (7). At two and a half miles from Macalister Springs, the jeep track joins a timber road coming in from the south and turning west towards the Macalister Valley. Follow the road south over Howitt Plains past an airstrip to Howitt Hut. Carry small quantity of water. (11 :28) 4th Day Continue south on road along Snowy Range with several good views over heads of the . Road continues south along the western flank of The Bastards Neck before swinging east and climbing to the crest of the ridge near Minogues Lookout, 5,180 ft. Good views of the country from this point (3t). Follow road south-east and south; avoid a jeep track to the left (Dry River). Road turns east along range, near the head of Piemans Creek (7), turn east, drop down into the flat valley. Follow Piemans Creek down east to Guys Hut keeping on the southern side of the stream. Good lunch spot near the hut; cross creek to reach Guys Hut. After lunch, recross creek and follow jeep track south­ east to rejoin Snowy Range Road. At one and a quarter miles from Guys Hut cross a head of the Caledonia River. There are many good camp sites on the lush grassy flats 100 yards east of the road. (10 :38) Sth Day Take lunch only for a pleasant day's walking at Bryces Gorge. At least one day can be spent walkmg in this much underrated region. Most people see only one waterfall and one lookout point whereas in fact, there are numerous waterfalls and a dozen lookout points from rocky ramparts. Leave Caledonia River head, walk east 400 yards, cross creek head north­ east 500 yards to scarp, then east-south-east 440 yards to high rim; look for red rock platform slightly lower; very good views of Conglomerate Valley. Continue south-east along scarp to high pinnacle, 5,130 ft.; 500 yards further look for rock shelf slightly lower offering good views of both Conglomerate and Carey Valleys. Return to first creek, cross and climb 440 yards north-west to high bluff (Bryces Gorge lookout). Continue down scarp north-north-west to Piemans Creek at falls. High bluff at right looks down on lip of Piemans Falls. Good swimming hole above falls. Excellent lunch spot. Cross creek; a high point 200-300 yards north commands an excellent view of the entire drop of Piemans Creek Falls, 300-400 ft. Return almost to creek then climb north-west on to grassy shelf. Walk north half a mile to a rocky shelf overlooking Conglomerate Creek 54 Falls in its hanging valley. Return to camp by a general southerly route, crossing Piemans Creek a quarter-mile west of the falls. (6:44) 6th Day Rejoin Snowy Plains Road, and continue south for half a mile to the road junction where the Mount Darling Range logging road leaves to the north-east. Follow Snowy Plains Road past Racecourse Plain; cross air­ strip, Big Plain and Mount Lookout (5); then follow the head of Shaws Creek (The Valley) to The Gorge (7t). In fine weather there are many good views east over the Carey country towards Snowy Bluff and The Watchtower. After rain, a high waterfall may be seen on the southern end of Mount Darling Range (Mount Darling Creek) from a point north-east of Big Plain. When the plains are reason­ ably dry it is much more pleasant to follow the line of the old cattle pad or the jeep track off to the west of the road, very pleasant walking indeed on the long grassy slopes of the old cattle trail. Retrieve food cache, if any. Where the road turns sharply east above The Gorge, cross Shaws Creek; rejoin the cattle pad running south from The Valley over the hill between Shaws and Tin Bucket Creeks. At the saddle follow jeep track east; avoid track ahead along Tin Bucket Creek. At the hilltop look for views from the red rock ledges to the east. Continue down along jeep track to Kellys Hut situated at the edge of beautiful Holmes Plain. (9!:53t) 7th Day Leave packs at Kellys Hut. Return to the saddle above Tin Bucket Creek (U). Follow jeep track straight ahead (west) to the ftattish summit of Mount Reynard, 5,650 ft. From the southern edge look south for the distant falls on Dingo Creek, and the good view of red rock layers on Long Hill far away in the south-west. Return to Kellys Hut (5t). Follow the jeep track east out through fence, crossing Shaws Creek just before starting the climb over the northern shoulder of Mount Arbuckle. Leave packs and walk south 300 yards to Arbuckle Summit. Good views of the eastern sector from The Watchtower to Wellington Plateau past the Mount Kent Range and Trapyard Hill. Rejoin the jeep track and descend steeply to Arbuckle Junction (8). Follow Moroka Road east. Look for remains of the old Moroka Track to the left of the road. Follow this track to Sur­ veyors Creek forest camp (10!). Rejoin road, look for a track to the left; follow this short-cut track to Doolans Plain Road. Turn north and follow to Doolans Plain Forestry Camp, Hovelltown. Two hundred yards further north the Moroka River jeep track leaves to the east. A further half a mile north a tiny creek flowing to the right supplies water for a series of fair campsites further up the hill. Camp here or at forestry camp. (l2:65t) 8th Day Leave camp carrying water and lunch; walk north along road; at first junction follow left-hand jeep track; continue north-west over plateau when jeep track ends to a viewpoint high over the valley of Surveyors Creek; continue east over rocks avoiding the head of a deep valley, follow plateau edge north then east, join a jeep track heading for The Watch­ tower (Neilsons Crag). Head through Tingiringi Gum scrub in a north­ north-east direction following the plateau edge past several rocky knobs to The Watchtower, 4,560 ft. Good views of the Carey Creek Valley and various waterfalls from some of these rocky tops. Continue north along a narrow rocky ridge with occasional views of the Mount Darling Range. Return to The Watchtower. 55 This new blanket Is worth ten times its weight in warmth ... FITS IN YOUR POCKET

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56 Continue east along the northern edge of the plateau for one mile to a rocky lookout point overlooking the deep valley below Snowy Bluff. A grand view of a wild, spectacular valley with the Moroka River pulsing through Moroka Glen near its junction with the Carey country. Return west to the jeep track and follow back to Doolans Plain Road and camp (8!). Leaving Doolans Plain Road on the Moroka River jeep track walk east and north past a complex of logging tracks through burnt and logged country to a three-way junction. Avoid roads to the left and right; follow the fainter jeep track straight ahead indicated by a deep arrow cut in a tree stump at the junction, also faint pencil markings, "Moroka" and "F.C.V.". Follow jeep track north-wards; at the next flat follow right­ hand track across flat then through a timber belt, cross through the middle of another open flat. The track now well-defined follows the spur down north-easterly, dropping slightly at first then very steeply. On the last section, the track zig-zags in wide turns to the Moroka River five miles from Doolans Plain Road. The jeep track turns upstream; follow for 300- 400 yards. Cross the river near this point. Many beautiful park-like campsites can be found 100 feet above the river on the far side. (13!:79) 9th Day A suggested rest day to prepare for a stiff climb the following day. Exploration of the river course upstream, and of the park-like walled valley of Two Mile Creek. The upper section of this valley is almost completely surrounded by high sandstone walls. lOtb Day A very early start is suggested because of the hard day through diffi­ cult terrain. A small quantity of water should be carried for lunch. From the campsite climb east upward along the spur between Snowy Bluff and Two Mile Creeks. At about one mile look south-east towards the steeply enclosed head of Two Mile Creek for the large waterfall on this stream falling from the timbered heights of Mount Dawson. A little higher the spur almost reaches Snowy Bluff Creek at the topmost of three large water­ falls; leave packs and walk downstream to view these fine falls. Return to packs and cross the creek just above the top fall: follow the well-defined spur upwards in a northerly direction avoiding cliffs dropping away to the west. Although fairly steep the walking is pleasant, being mostly through open and grassy forest. The end of the steepest section is reached at the top where the range swings east-north-east then rises more gradually to the timbered summit of Snowy Bluff. 4,650 ft. (3). There seems little doubt that the approach from Doolans Plain by way of Snowy Bluff Creek represents the best route to climb what was once considered to be the most inaccessible and difficult of Victorian mountains. By continuing east along Snowy Bluff ridge for a half-mile another top is reached at the crest of the red rock ridge. This lower top of Snowy Bluff, 4,400 ft., provides an excellent view of the Wonnangatta Valley, Eaglevale and the Mount Kent Range. From this point the range turns south dropping steeply into a deep, timbered saddle; henceforth the route along the range to Little Kent is much more difficult, being timbered, scrubby, loose and rocky terrain with rotten trees and logs. In patches, particularly in range saddles, groves of Woollybutt (Alpine Ash) make their appearance. Approaching Mount Dawson keep to the east side of the ridge, it is not necessary to climb Mount Dawson. At a sloping grassy glade east of the summit (8!) turn east and descend steeply into the thickly forested saddle of Shanty Hollow. A fine sheltered camp spot, water can be found one- 57 third mile north-east of the saddle on the stream which flows westerly from Mount Kent into Scrubby Creek. There is little chance of finding water on the south side except by going down a long way. (9:88) 11th Day Another early start is suggested from Shanty Hollow. Climb a trifle south of east out of the Hollow towards Mount Kent. When the cliff line is reached follow the foot of the cliffs to the south. In a short distance an easy way up will be found through a break in the cliff line. When the climb flattens turn left and climb gradually to Mount Kent Trig. Point, 5,129 ft. (U). A very good view of the Wonnangatta country and distant Pinnacles, etc., will be found from a rocky ledge a few yards north. Follow the ridge east and south-east; just to the south of Little Kent a jeep track is joined, take care to avoid walking too far south into the heads of south-flowing streams, keep just south of the ridge of Little Kent. The jeep track rounds southern and eastern slopes of Little Kent, 4,770 ft. before rejoining the Kent Range at a grassy saddle (3!). Follow the jeep track east avoiding two turnoffs to the right to Dingo Hill. The jeep track traverses many fine Woollybutt groves between Mount Kent and The Pinnacles. Beyond the turnoff the jeep track wanders almost along the scarp edge with the steep fall down on the Wonnangatta side enabling occasional glimpses of the deep blue valley. At six and three quarter miles a high rocky outcrop to the left signifies the scarp of Billy Goat Bluff (Mount Tea Tree). From this high top there are superb views of Happy Valley, Wonnangatta and the endless blue spurs of the Crooked River country. The high rocky ridge of Billy Goat Bluff thrusts downwards north-north-west towards Eaglevale; there are many good views on the track down to Happy Valley. Continuing south the jeep track traverses a Woollybutt grove well to the right (downhill) of the scarp, shortly joining The Pinnacles logging road (8). Leave packs and follow the road east and north-east to a jeep track ending at a F.C.V. fire-spotting hut. A narrow foot-track follows the rocky ridge to the white glassed-in fire tower on the summit of Dark Hill (East Pinnacle). This is the finest view in the mountains from this rocky range pinnacle between the Moroka and Wonnangatta Rivers, while 4,000 feet below the Crooked River drowses in the afternoon sunshine. Return to packs and continue south-west downhill one mile where a glade of tall Woollybutts on the flat divide between Little River and Round Plain Creek offers good campsites. An old jeep track turns sharply back to the right among the big trees. Water may be found one-third of a mile north-west down the flat valley. (10!:98!) 12th Day Rejoin road, walk west-south-west for one mile to where there is a junction of roads and jeep tracks on the left near a pile of large rocks (remains of Stonehenge). Follow jeep track sharp left going over a hill, then down through tall alpine ash to the lush grassy flats of Dairy Farm Flat just below the confluence of Little River and Dairy Farm Creek. Cross the river and follow the jeep track easterly and south upwards along the valley slopes of Dairy Farm Creek crossing numerous springs, soaks and marshes. At about two and a half miles upstream of Dairy Farm Flat, a junction of jeep tracks at a marshy plain is one-third of a mile due east from the trig. point on the summit of Castle Hill. The jeep track leaving east heads for the Jump-Up Spur. The track south-west crossing a swampy creek rounds the eastern side of Castle Hill to a complex of logging roads at the southern end of the mountain. This southern road eventually pro- 58 vides one outlet to the Valencia Creek-Briagolong country. From the southern end of the mountain follow spur north (or north-east) through scrub and over rocks to the large cairn on Castle Hill, 4,860 ft. Camp below Castle Hill. (7!:106) 13th Day Leaving the flat east of Castle Hill proceed in an easterly direction along jeep track; in one-quarter of a mile reach a junction of jeep tracks at a boggy flat. Follow the right-hand track across a bog, climb gradually, and a quarter of a mile past track junction reach the top of the Jump­ Up Spur. Just before the top the jeep track swings left around the side then plunges down the spur. As the name implies, this is a very steep spur, follow track down for a considerable distance then over a number of knobs climbing eventually to a helicopter pad cleared of timber situated on a high knob. This point offers a good view of the range from Castle Hill along the Eagles Crest to The Pinnacles. Follow the jeep track down very steeply to the foot of Jump-Up at the junction of North and South Castleburn Creeks. The jeep track follows the lovely timbered valley of Castleburn Creek downstream crossing and recrossing the creek 23 times at various stony fords eventually reaching the main Dargo Road, two and a half miles north of Castleburn. After traversing over a long hill nearing farmlands, the track crosses a small side creek shortly after reaching an old road just prior to the main Dargo Road. Turn right and follow the old road to Castleburn Post Office and Station Homestead (Treasure's). (2!:120)

TWO-DAYS: THE VIKING AND THE RAZOR The construction of the forestry road along the Snowy Range now gives ready access to the Macalister Springs area approximately 70 miles north of Heyfield. It opens up a new realm of alpine country which can be reached from Melbourne in a week-end. The Dividing Range to the west of Mount Howitt and the Mount Cobbler area has been reasonably accessible in the past, but not so The Viking and The Razor. These two massive sail-like 5,000-foot razors dominate any view in the Barry Mountains and provide spectacular walking. An ideal week-end trip can be enjoyed especially in December-January (the alpine spring) using the Howitt Hut as accommodation after the late Friday night arrival. Next morning drive one and a half miles further north to the junction of the Wonnangatta spur track and the Macalister Springs jeep track. The l:~st two miles are rough, but if traversed in daylight create no problems. except that you must ensure that this last two-mile jeep track is not passed where the main forestry road swings west. To commence the walk travel eastwards down the west spur track for seven miles to the . No problems should arise on this section. Only one small uphill grade will be encountered, and a distinct track leads all the way down, mostly on a spur. Fill water-bottles here as you will have a dry camp for the night. The next stage can be tricky. Watch the compass, and once the track has swung to a definite south-east the river will be met for the fourth time within a few hundred yards. Don't cross, but leave the track and head north up a steep spur to Blue Hills, a distance of two miles. A disused jeep track, although often hard to see, is a guide and should be followed wherever possible. Before you 59 reach Blue Hills a jeep track in better condition comes in from the east, and then continues over the summit into the saddle between Blue Hills and The Viking. At this point take a westerly compass bearing and scrub-bash for one mile to the south summit of The Viking. The scrub is relatively thin, and good views gradually unfold. A quick walk north-west and the main summit is gained. What a view! Half a mile distant and 1,000 feet over the cliff, in the saddle, is the suggested campsite. To reach it retrace your steps to the low point just west of the summit, where the cliffs give way to a steep grass- and tree-covered slope. Follow down to the saddle. From below, sunrise on The Viking escarpment is superb. Next morning walk north-west up the spur to the western end of The Razor, and enjoy the exciting views on your right. A short scramble along The Razor is rewarding but could be dangerous in parts. From The Razor a definite range westward is noted and should be followed for one mile down (sticking to the ridge summit even though it looks awkward) then uphill for another mile on a west-south-west compass bearing to the summit of . This unspectacular scrub-covered hill has a good view from its south-east side. A deep saddle exists between Mount Despair and the next goal, Mount Speculation. The slopes of Mount Speculation are steep but the flowers and views make the effort worthwhile. A general westward direction across the saddle is best for this section, swinging south-west to the summit once the obvious spur is gained. At this point more familiar walking territory is reached and the well­ known Crosscut Saw is traversed. A track leads southwards for five miles 60 along the full distance of the Crosscut Saw to Mount Howitt and provides some of the State's best alpine scenery. Mount Howitt, at 5,715 feet the highest point on the trip, also provides spectacular views, especially towards the now familiar Viking and Razor. From Howitt head east down the spur track to the Macalister Springs, then up and along the jeep track to the cars, which are only two and a half miles from Mount Howitt. If you feel tired after this trip, count your blessings! During your week-end walk you have climbed 10,000 feet and seen the pick of Victoria's alpine country. Although Mount Despair and Mount Buggery may have lived up to their reputation. T.T.T.

ONE DAY WALKS:

DAYLESFORD - TIPPERARY SPRINGS - HEPBURN SPRINGS Distance: 10 miles. Transport: Train to Daylesford. Description of Route: From station walk one mile to the western end of Raglan Street (192929). Cross to south side of house opposite and follow track in a westerly direction passing ruins and a swamp until meeting a T-junction. Turn left, and in less than 100 yards turn sharply right to take a side road that runs at a 45-degree angle between a house on the right and a gully on the left. Road crosses dam wall, then divides at the head of a gully. Houses can be seen further down the right-hand fork. However, keep on the left track for a few hundred yards, then cross gully below lowest house. A gravelled track leads via a footbridge over Sailors Creek to Tipperary Springs, lunch site. Climb bank behind rotunda and recross creek to its eastern side, then follow it northwards. Best progress will be made by keeping to the old race-lines. In two miles reach tin sheds (I 79949); descend to a side-gully where a jeep track climbs up from the creek to the eastern ridge. Leave the track where it swings south, and go through the bush east to join the Ajax Track, following the latter north for three-quarters of a mile to the back of the golf-links. Take the road through the links down to Doctors Creek. After crossing the bridge make a sharp left turn under pines at the entrance of a lane that shortly joins the Hepburn Springs Road, and continue north along latter for half a mile. Cross to the eastern side of the road and turn into a side street by Church of England church. A footpath at the end of the street descends to Hepburn Springs. Walk past Locarno Springs to turn-off of swimming-pool and reservoir tracks, and climb to where they branch at the top of the first rise. Take reservoir track, climbing higher on the left, and follow ridge two miles south-east to Hepburn Reservoir. Cross causeway and continue south along service road. Turn right (W.) for a quarter-mile. Climb an unmade road (S.) to join road leading by Technical School, from where it is a further half-mile back to Daylesford station.

MAP REFERENCE: Daylesford, military, I :63 ,360.

NOTES COMPILED: January, 1969. 61 SLEEP WARM ••• Wake up Refreshed REMEMBER ••• there is nothing like DOWN

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62 WARBURTON- MOUNT LITTLE JOE- LA LA FALLS Distance: 7 miles. Features: Rain forest, fern gullies and waterfalls. Lyrebird territory. Some good views, steep climbs and descents. All seasons. Transport: Bus (Martyr's). Departs Whight's Tourist Bureau, Flinders Street. Description of Route: Mount Little Joe is easily recognised, being the steep-sided, conical thousand-foot peak that overshadows Warburton township. Start walking from the war memorial for three-eighths of a mile to where the disused railway bridge spans Scotchmans Creek. Walk under the bridge on the west side of the creek to make an immediate right-hand turn into the lane that leads up to Mayer Chalet. When this comes into view, start climb­ ing the grassy slope on the left, soon entering the timber at the foot of the north-eastern spur of Mount Little Joe. Keep the gully on the right and for a few hundred yards a boundary fence on the left, until the spur becomes more defined. The steep climb of 800 ft. leads to a track levelling out along the summit which offers good views and a lunch site, though fires should not be lit. Continue south-west along summit track to reach an earth tank in half a mile. On the left-hand side, near the tank, a short track leads into a rough jeep track that drops steeply, with good views of Mount Tugwell ahead. Follow for half a mile and then turn left into a similar track leading to a farmhouse and clearing, and beyond to a section of the Old Warburton Road. Turn right into this road, passing old huts before leaving it to join the Mount Bride Road. After a steady uphill climb for a good two miles, look for a yellow marker nailed to a

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63 tree on the outside of the road. This is the start of a mile-long foot track descending into the rain forest and fern gullies of the headwaters of Four Mile Creek. At the bottom of this track is a tributary of the stream. A side track leads across to the La La Falls on another branch. From the track junction a well graded footpath follows the creek downstream for one and a half miles to rejoin the Old Warburton Road, from where it is only another mile back into Warburton.

MAP REFERENCE: Gembrook, Lands Dept., Quarter sheet, section A.

NOTES COMPILED: January, 1969 . • SEVILLE - WANDIN YALLOCK CREEK - W ARRAMATE HILLS -LILYDALE Distance: 14 miles. Transport: Bus (departs Whight's Tourist Bureau, Flinders Street) to Seville. Return by train from Lilydale. Description of Route: Alight (478412) at Seville just before bridge. Take northern side street sign-posted "To Fire Station" and shortly turn north into an unmade road. In half a mile cross wooden bridge at bend, turn right into an unfenced road, then north into another road leading in a further half a mile to the site of Seville railway station on the abandoned Warburton line. Either follow service track or permanent way north-easterly to the old level crossing at Killara. From here it is a quarter-mile north along the gravel road to Wandin Yallock Creek. Lunch site at creek. Continue along the road, swinging to the north-west and gradually ascending the high ground of the Warramate Hills. Looking back there are good views of Mounts Bride, Tugwell and Donna Buang. At the highest point of the road (496455) better views may be obtained by climbing the cleared hill directly to the north. If this is done return to the road at 484457 by descending the south-western spur. Pass through Gruyere and after a further half-mile go straight over crossroads to join Killara Road at 450478 which is then followed for one mile to Boundary Road. Turn south for one and a quarter miles down this road, then west for two miles along Ingram Road. On reaching the Maroondah Highway turn south into it for less than l 00 yards to where a disused section of the road branches left. After three-quarters of a mile the branch road rejoins the highway, which is then followed for the last one and a half miles into Lilydale.

MAP REFERENCE: Monbulk, military, 1:50,000. Yan Yean, military, 1:63,360.

NOTES COMPILED: June, 1969. 64 FOR THE FINEST FULLY

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