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Cutting the Dragon's Tail

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Cutting the Dragon's Tail CUTTING THE DRAGON’S TAIL David and Lynda Chidell CUTTING THE DRAGON’S TAIL Copyright David and Lynda Chidell 1998 All Rights Reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by photocopying or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the copyright owner of this book. First Published 1998 by MINERVA PRESS 195 Knightsbridge London SW7 1RE e-book version published in 2012 Dedication We have written this for the sake of Tin Hau and all those who might dream about living on a boat and making voyages in distant waters. It is our hope that Tin Hau may be cherished for many generations to come, giving others the excitement, pleasure and sense of purpose she gave us. Contents Preface List of figures List of maps I Construction (by David Chidell) 1. The Case for Selling Up and Living on a Boat in Warm Climates 2. Which Boat? 3. Second-Hand or New? 4. Our Choice 5. What Next? 6. The Fitting-Out Starts 7. March 1985: The Turning Point 8. Twelve Busy Months 9. Away from Port Elizabeth 10. Some Technical Matters 10.1 The Sails 10.2 The Yards 10.3 The Battens 10.4 The Running Rigging 10.5 The Masts 10.6 The Standing Rigging 10.7 The Steering 10.8 The Windlass and Chain 10.9 The Anchors 10.10Plumbing 10.11 Power Generation 10.12Paints 11. The Build-up Towards the Launch 12. The Launch: 10th March, 1986 13. Afloat at Last 14. The Trials II Maiden Voyage (by Lynda Chidell) III Indian Ocean Islands (by Lynda Chidell) 1. Land of the Dodo 2. Mauritius to Seychelles 3. One Thousand Miles from Anywhere 4. Towards the Chagos Archipelago 5. Uninhabited Islands 6. Onwards to Sri Lanka 7. Back to the Bustling World IV The Arabian and Red Seas (by David Chidell) 1. Decisions 2. The Fleet 3. Preparations for the Voyage 4. Galle to Aden 5. Aden 6. Aden to Port Sudan 7. Port Sudan 8. Port Sudan to Hurghada 9. Hurghadato Suez 10. Suez to Larnaca V The Eastern Mediterranean (by Lynda Chidell) 1. A Summer on Land 2. A Quick Whirl in the Land of the Dervishes 3. Winter in a Floating Village 4. In Quest of a Quiet Anchorage 5. Another Winter, Another Marina VI Beyond Corfu (by Lynda Chidell) 1. Following the Sun 2. Islas Baleares 3. Dots on the Radar 4. In the Shadow of the Rock 5. Atlantic Rollers 6. What Followed Acknowledgements Epilogue Bibliography Index of Boats, Yachts and Ships List of Figures 1. Tin Hau’s Original Deck and Interior Plans (1986) 2. Deck and Interior Plans (after changes) 3. Forward Area Cross-Sections (after changes) 4. Aft Area Cross-Sections (after changes) 5. Sail Plan 6. The Lazy Jacks 7. The Original Sheeting System (1986) 8. The Final Sheeting System (1992) 9. The Hauling Parrel, Bowsing Tackle and Downhauls 10. The Steering System 11. Fresh Water and Salt Water Plumbing (after changes) 12. Water Consumption Records (sample page) 13. Typical Sail Settings 14. Ship’s Log (sample page) 15. ‘Wind Points’ – Red Sea and Gulf of Suez 16. Astral Navigation Sheet (sample page) List of Maps 1. Tin Hau’s Wanderings 2. The Maiden Voyage 3. Mauritius 4. Mauritius to Sri Lanka 5. Salomon Atoll, Chagos 6. Chagos Archipelago 7. Sri Lanka 8. Sri Lanka to Cyprus 9. Cyprus and Turkey 10. Turkey and Greece 11. Corfu to Cornwall Preface In 1982, the seeds of an idea were sown; an idea that was to change our lives – a dream that perhaps had always been there, but one that developed in our home overlooking Mbabane, the capital of Swaziland. I had first visited Swaziland on 5th August, 1973, whilst on a student working holiday in Southern Africa, and had earmarked it even then as the ideal African country in which to live – a place with some of the most spectacular scenery on the continent. Unlike so many African countries, this one was united. There was only one tribe, the Swazis, and one much respected ruler, King SobhuzaII. Like others before me, I was bitten by the ‘Africa bug’; attracted by the wide open spaces, the warm climate, and the dignified but fun-loving people. In December 1975 I joined a couple, Peter Duby and Fiona Sawday, who had bought and prepared their own Land Rover for an Africa Overland journey and advertised in The Times for two people to share their adventure. Six months after leaving London, we reached Pretoria. Peter and Fiona then went to Swaziland. I chose to carry on to Cape Town where I obtained a job as a civil engineer at Simonstown harbour. Two years later, on completion of the harbour extensions, I drove the 1300 or so miles to Swaziland to join Peter and Fiona in employment there. This lasted only eight months– although it felt like several years, such were the social and work activities with which I was involved. In the final fortnight, as I was preparing to leave, I met Lynda. I suppose we were destined to return to a country that had played such an important part in our lives (Lynda had been there since 1976); and return we did, in 1981. I was employed by the same firm of consulting engineers, but this time for a fixed contract period of two years. We arrived towards the end of the winter dry season, a time of year when for months on end the skies are free from clouds. The land was brown from the lack of rain, especially in the hotter low veld areas and the roads were thick with dust. By November, however, the summer rains were well on their way and we started to experience incredibly violent thunderstorms. The heavens would open and rain would bucket down, turning the roads into mud baths. We discovered that our house, being near to the top of a hill, was regularly struck by lightning. We enjoyed hearing the beautiful Swazi language (siSwati) again– words like ‘Sawubona’ and ‘Yebo’, drawn out and slowly spoken, as though time did not matter too much. ‘How far is it to Simunya?’ I would ask a figure standing by the roadside clad in a western tweed jacket, open necked shirt, brightly coloured Swazi mahiya (skirt) and heavy building site boots with no socks. ‘Ahh, little bit long way’, would come the reply. ‘How far to Mhlume?’ I would ask. ‘Ahhh, too far.’ We grew to know Swaziland very well, and explored its most remote corners. It will always be a kind of spiritual home to me, a very special place with some very special people. Not just the Swazis, but also the small and extremely varied international community– South Africans, British, Portuguese, Greeks, Dutch, Germans, French, Italians, Danish, Irish, Americans, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, Chinese and Japanese, to name but a few– all employed on various projects around the country. Although much of our time in Swaziland was taken up with work, we were able to spend most evenings and weekends pursuing an amazingly diverse set of interests. I tried to set aside one evening a week to deal with a yachtmaster correspondence course I had started in England just before going to Swaziland, thereby gaining knowledge that proved to be extremely valuable. We found ourselves increasingly involved with local amateur dramatic performances, initially backstage and later – to my terror – on stage. I enjoyed more the obscurity of singing choral music with the Mbabane Singers– although the obscurity was somewhat shattered when the small choir was commanded by royal decree to sing the Hallelujah Chorus of the Messiah in front of tens of thousands of people at King Sobhuza’s funeral. Other activities included sports such as golf and tennis, organised painstakingly by the Japanese. As if that wasn’t enough, our New Zealand friends in the Usutu forest aroused our interest in orienteering (or how to get lost in the forest). We were the ‘Mbabane link’, placing advertisements in the local paper in an effort to swell numbers. Our main relaxation, and something I really appreciated, was a visit once every fortnight to Sand River Dam, a low veld dam near the sugar estates of Tshaneni. There we would pitch a tent and spend an idyllic weekend dinghy racing in a Fireball built by and belonging to our good friend, Jeff Perring In the evenings, we would light a fire and cook our meal in the open, as we contemplated the bright stars of the southern sky. With so many things going on, it was perhaps surprising that we had time to think about what to do on completion of my contract – but think we did. An idea evolved, exciting possibilities were discussed, and a plan was formed that somehow tied together many of the threads of our lives up to that point. Might this be the time to make a move into something completely different? Could we consider selling our home and all our possessions, spending the rest of our lives at sea aboard a sailing boat? Could we make a living from a boat, by taking paying guests in an area such as the Greek islands and giving them the ‘holiday of a lifetime’? Could this be our chance to create a more fulfilling lifestyle, in which we could get to know the oceans, live closer to nature, and explore as much of the world as possible? The instinctive answers came straight from the heart. Why not sail off into the wide blue horizon and chase the sun? Why not set our sights on what we would really like to do with our lives? Why not do it now? And so the project was conceived.
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