DECEMBER/JANUARY Fooling around Here’s your Zagreb invitation: come out and have fun. Because December in Zagreb makes you fall in love with the city. Glide across the ice-skating rink at Tomislav Square, dance at Jelačić Square, fool around at the Funicular, enjoy sausages and mulled wine... If you’re still short of ideas, the revamped Zagreb For You will sort you out. Check out the Advent map with best events and fun locations. And watch out for that snow ball! INSTAGRAM*

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Zagreb tourist board/Julien Duval

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* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

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TALKABOUT MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS FIRST TRADITIONAL ADVENT Down the slide to artsy heights MARQUEE at Jelačić Square is no longer on. Seven years ago, in the spot where residents planned MINUTE to work garden lots, what popped up instead was the Museum of The Zagreb Mayor has Contemporary Arts (MSU). A work of architect Igor Franić, the Zagreb in a decided against it, mak- meander-shaped Museum transformed the otherwise dull drop of coffee ing more room for the commuter city area. It showcases the works of Croatian and New Year celebrations in international artists, but also houses a library, multimedia lecture Let your first impression the open air. room, bookshop, VIP salon, cafe and a restaurant. There’s plenty to of Zagreb be over a cup of explore with sub-zero temperatures outside. When you get tired, @adventzagreb.com forget the stairs and come down on the slide, an art installation by coffee. Cozy up at Johann ONE IN TEN ZAGREB Carsten Holler. Franck, the revamped grand- LOCALS USES INSTA- The Screen covering most of the style coffee house, smack Museum’s western side is the GRAM. Each day there biggest in this part of Europe. at the Jelačić Square. This are 72,000 photos Bauhaus-style establish- shared on Instagram, half ment, named after Croatia’s of which are of Croatia, pioneer coffee roaster, excels says the Jasno&Glasno in specialty coffee brews, market research agency. with an almost museum-like Use #instAgram. touch of traditional cafe cul- ZG IN THREE COLORS ture. Linger on for a classy Water fountains, MSU, lunch and delicious cake. Surface Slide Graffiti Street artist cinemas and cafes 14,500 m2; 3,500 m2 44 m long OKO just finished her showed support for Paris permanent exhibition 17 m high 90-meter-large graffiti space; 1,500 m2 regular 6-seconds-long piece on the western by displaying the French exhibition space ride facade flag colors. Candles in WORD front of the French em- bassy are still lit. Eagles IN 2016, ZAGREB IS Božić of Death Metal, the band GETTING ITS FIRST PET (Bo-zh-i-ch) whose concert at Bataclan CREMATORY AND CEM- Christmas, Weihnachten, was interrupted by the The cornerstone ETERY. Noël, Navidad, Natale, Natal terrorist attack, was actu- has been laid in Dumo- ally scheduled to play in vac, near the well-known クリスマス Zagreb on Dec 1. animal rescue. 크리스마스 #ZagrebForParis @azilzagreb.com 圣诞 Nikola Tesla in Zagreb 1892: “As a son of my home country Croatia, I think it’s my duty to help WHAT the city of Zagreb.” MONOVIEW WHERE Zagreb is a WHEN treasurebox of unusual spaces and buildings MY MOST SUCCESSFUL INITIATIVE SO ZAGREB FAR Instead of a planned SUPERHEROES parking lot, the new public Tesla in the heart of Zagreb park was laid out in Grgu- His only encounter with Zagreb was passing ra Ninskog street in 2013. through town on his way to his mother’s It made it the ninth park , funeral. At that occasion, he said at the City Saša Šimpraga of the historical Green Council: ‘As a son of my home country Cro- writer and activist atia, I think it my duty to help Zagreb.’ Tesla Horseshoe of Zagreb and is omnipresent in Zagreb: find his inventions COME OUT its newest addition in over in the Technical Museum, or stroll down the a century. shortest but most buoyant street bearing his ON THE FIRST WHAT’S IN THE PIPELINE? As of name. Track down his statue in Preradoviće- SNOWY NIGHT 2016 I am starting the GRAND PARTY ON ICE va street, work by Ivan Meštrović. Seminar for Walkers. Lovers of ice-skating TO HEAR Each month a different, and Disney characters, POETS less ordinary city walk hurry to Arena Centar PERFORM will take place, followed Dec 10–13 for the silver by initiatives for city im- anniversary of Disney OUTDOORS provements. Participants on Ice winter spectacle. will be selected by a public Music and dance liven call. It will be free, fun up the best-known fairy- ANJA MUTIĆ and mostly about visiting tales – Frozen, the Lion Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for unusual places in the city King, Little Mermaid and New York Magazine and The Washington while trying to improve it Post. Follow her at @everthenomad Peter Pan – sweeping at the same time. you away to a magical THE BEST SPOT IN ZAGREB TO HIDE adventure. Tickets: 90- A winter’s AWAY FROM THE COLD.... Instead 295KN. @eventim.hr of hiding, why not attend a ZAGREB AND global poetry festival that GDAŃSK ON CANVAS night I kicked off in Zagreb with Catch the third Zagreb have a confession to make: I’m a my poet friend Aleksandar Biennial of Painting until IChristmas Grinch. I’ll spare you Hut Kono? 50 Poems Dec 6 at the popular the reasons why, and go on to my for Snow is a no-budget Meštrović Pavillion (Trg next confession: I’ve secretly fallen festival taking place on the first night of Žrtava Fašizma 16). The in love with holiday time in Zagreb. heavy snow in Zagreb and other European exhibition showcases the I love the nip in the air while you sip and North American cities. Each year at best contemporary Croa- on mulled wine and munch on sau- nightfall, three different poets perform tian painting in dialogue sages and bread at one of the many outdoors, in the park behind the Tuškanac with artists from another street fairs. I love the sea of people Summer Cinema. European city. This year milling around the city streets, all TO REALLY “GET” ZAGREB... Go and see Zagreb’s the guest lineup’s theme in good spirits. I love the children’s most important modernist building from is Exporting Gdańsk. laughter at the ice rink, the alfresco the sixties: a housing estate in Laginjina Opening times: happenings all over town, the spirit street with the ‘mobile’ facade designed by Tue–Sun 11am–8pm. of joy... the architect Ivo Vitić. I also recommend vi- nd then there’s that first @hdlu.hr siting grounds and some of the snowfall, which for extra cheer BIGGEST NEW A spectacular abandoned pavilions, or parks hopefully happens at holiday time. YEAR PARTY and staircases north of street. The flakes start to fall, slowly, then faster, and faster, a nature’s crescendo... And then that first eve- HIDDEN ZAGREB ning, the ground becomes covered with a soft quilt of snow. It all turns Cult cafe tucked away so silent you can almost hear your own footsteps. behind the church On that first day of snow, wait Traditional Zagreb New until evening. Then that very first very Zagreb local knows of Kinoteka – a Year’s countdown takes evening, head out and stroll around Eone-time arthouse cinema and a name- place at the Jelačić Zagreb. For extra magic, pick a late sake cafe at the same address (Kordunska 1). Square with a live open- evening. Pick any part of town, a This Hopper-style foyer operated only three air concert. Croatian pop random street. And then start to hours before a film screening, but stirred up icon Nina Badrić and a amble. Wander aimlessly. Make enough buzz to grow into a cult artists’ hang- host of popular Croatian traces in the virgin snow. Pass out. Though the screenings relocated to the bands will liven up the under trees with trunks white and Tuškanac cinema, the cafe’s vibe lives on. It show. It’s time to dance light, like intricate lacework. wows with its worldly charm – think grand into the New Year! alk and walk, and you’ll piano and mismatched antique furniture – @adventzagreb.com Wdiscover another city than the and a cozy neighborhood feel, lovingly built one with all the colorful Christmas by the owner couple Željko and Željka Japec. hubbub. You’ll unearth another There’s no schedule of live events, but if you Zagreb, cloaked in mystery, an visit often, you’ll surely catch an impromptu enchanted winter’s tale... music or stand-up comedy gig.

SILENT MOVIE BLAST IN CINEMA EUROPE. Catch silent movie classics screened to the live performance of the Zagreb Philharmonic. If you’ve never seen Nosferatu, Bat- tleship Potemkin or Chaplin’s The Kid and Keaton’s The General, get in line at Kino Europa Dec 22 and Jan 26. Tickets: 60KN and sell out quickly. @kinoeuropa.hr SLJEME The only European capital with a ski resort an’t make up your from Zagreb, Sljeme has proficiency. The easiest ljeme makes a great Cmind on this win- made it on the list of and longest is the White Sski resort provided ter’s ski destination? major skiing holidays. Descent (1110m), while there is snow around. If you’re driving from Stay in Tomislav or the Red Descent will At a relatively low Croatia in the direction Snow Queen hotels, appeal to those seeking peak (1033m), at least of Austria or Italy, you’ll where lodging with an adrenaline rush. You in ski terms, Sljeme be caught queuing at breakfast comes at can reach both descents doesn’t get more than the border. Not so great 160–420KN a night. by ski lifts, which have 40cm of snow, but at -so why not stay put this There are five ski runs a capacity to take 3300 least it’s snow-covered year? At merely 20 km to match your level of skiers an hour. during all three winter

Igor Kralj / PIXSELL months. And when Sljeme nature fails, fake snow technology saves the 5 ski runs show. It was only in 1100m White Descent 2013 that unusually 3300 skiers per hour high temperatures prevented the famous ski cup – Snow Queen – from taking place. Need more incentive? It was on Sljeme slopes that the world-famous Ivica and Janica Kostelić took their first snow steps. They still visit today, especially for the New Year Slalom Ski World Cup. Don’t be surprised if they ski past you at one of the Sljeme descents.

QuiZG A day at Docu Cinema Buffs of 1 which Zagreb team won the the cinema documentary European Championship most movies will enjoy ANDREA PISAC times? Dokukino at KIC a) Basketball team Cibona Catch Star Wars, the (Preradovićeva 5), Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with b) Handball team Zagreb new James Bond and a unique cinema a twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com c) Waterpolo team Mladost other blockbusters in specialized solely CineStar chains (Avenue in this movie Honestly, 2 Which is the biggest Zagreb Mall, Arena Centar and genre. neighborhood? Branimir Centar). Cheapest finish the year a) tickets are on Wednesday b) Trešnjevka South (19,90KN). Midnight premiere IMAX with a bang c) Novi Zagreb East screenings come at a highest If you’re after price (37KN). Parking is free. action and ecember in Zagreb is like the 3 The wrapping of the adventure Dfinish of a long-haul race. We’ve Zagreb mummy kept in the movies shown on paced ourselves throughout the year Archeological Museum has Art-house cinema Imax screens, head like savvy marathon runners. We’ve Cinephiles should visit writings in which language: to the CineStar in carefully distributed our strength like a) Etruscan Grič cinema (Jurišićeva 6), Arena Centar b) Egyptian which screens independent (Lanište 32). endurance riders. We’ve cut corners c) Phoenician movies and documentaries Ticket price on here and there. And now? It’s time to (closed Mon–Wed). Tickets Wednesdays 39KN go all out. BONUS How many phone only 15KN. Art-house movies and for a midnight But the last day of the year is not booths still remain in Zagreb? are occasionally on at show 60KN. Metropolis, the screening where the finish line is. Advent in Za- a) 400 greb is. The whole month of sprinting b) 600 room at the Museum of c) 800 Contemporary Arts. into pleasure. Cinema Europe You see the first glimpses of this One of the last ANSWERS: remaining December joy spree in the twinkling . Zagreb waterpolo team won 1 c old-style lights that beam up Zagreb streets and the European gold seven times, MOVIE CLASSICS while Zagreb basketball and cinemas, Kino parks. Then Christmas market kiosks Tuškanac cinema handball teams won twice; 2 Europa (Varšavska mushroom, exploding with jazzy hand- screens Croatian as b. Trešnjevka South has 66,674 3) specializes in made gifts and colorful knick-knacks. people living there and together well as international European movies. with Trešnjevka North around movie classics, courtesy This is where you But this is still a warm-up to what’s 122,000 – five times the size of of the Croatian Film can catch this year’s really important to Zagreb locals . To Novi Zagreb; 3 a. The Zagreb Linen Association and the Croatian Oscar-nominated keep up with our Christmas spirit you Book (Liber linteus Zagrebiensis) Filmoteque. The cinema Zvizdan by Croatia’s need to get out, mingle and eat. Snag a dates back to 390BC and was showcases established as famous director brought to Zagreb in 1862; sausage and mulled wine and move to well as nascent film artists Dalibor Matanić. BONUS c. Around 800, according the rhythm of street music. and symbolically charges Tickets 25KN. to Telekom. Before the mobile If you’re worried about growing a muf- phone era, there used to be 12,500 only 10KN per a ticket. phone booths. fin top, follow my friend’s routine: diet before December to preempt the joy weight you’ll gain later. You’re allowed to train for Zagreb Advent this way! Tip: Never settle for less than three parties in December. Join the all-night tram15 lines meridian16 137days Christmas Eve party at Kinoteka, cele- operate across Zagreb. They are passes through Zagreb and has of rain a year. It snows numbered from 1 to 17. Numbers its monument at the corner of approximately 23 days a year, brate New Year at noon in Fužine and 10 and 16 don’t exist. Držićeva and Vukovarska streets mostly in December and January. again at midnight in Zagreb. COOL TURE ALEX CREVAR EDITORS ARE Travel writer from the United States. His BACK IN TVOR- work has appeared in The New York Times, National Geographic Traveler and NICA. After the Outside magazine @AlexCrevar last year’s sold-out concert, they’re here again with their new The next album on Dec 2. Stick with Tvornica the fol- lowing week to hear generation the Subways. Ad- ix months ago, a former professor vance tickets: 150KN. Sof mine asked if I would co-teach a @tvornica kulture study-abroad university course with her EDO MURTIĆ’S in May 2016. I said yes. Teaching young SHOW livens up the travel journalists would be both fun and Museum of Arts and rewarding … for me, if not for them. But Crafts until Jan 3. it was the professor’s second question Get inspired by his that really got me excited: “Where abstract ceramics would I like to teach it?” on plates, walls and “Zagreb,” I said, without hesitation. boards. @muo.hr ecause my colleague trusts me, she BOLERO FESTI- Baccepted that my choice was valid. VAL, an international I did, however, have to justify the spot competition in Latin to academic administrators further up American and other the food chain. I couldn’t, for instance, dances is on at the just say Zagreb was my favorite place to Westin Hotel. Catch drink rakija and carouse. I am an adult the samba, rhumba after all. There needed to be real rea- and tango weekend sons for why the Croatian capital—of all Dec 19–20. the cities on the planet—was the proper #bolero2015 choice to teach 20 university students CROATIAN how to be travel writers. NATIONAL he reasons are the same ones any THEATER REVEALS Ttraveler should keep in mind when ITS SECRET behind- deciding their next vacation locale. the-scenes history. Theater actors take • Zagreb is a modern European capital you on a tour of this with the warmth of a village. amazing thespian • The city is easy to navigate—with house on Dec 5 and excellent public transportation. 9. @hnk.hr • Within a couple of days, you already NIGHT OF THE have your favorite cafes and bars sort- MUSEUMS kicks off ed and can find your rhythm. at 6pm and goes on • Scores of museums and galleries pep- until 1am on Jan 29. per the upper and lower parts of town. This is the 11th edi- • Zagreb is a quick bus or train ride from tion of the popular anywhere in . event, featuring 48 • The Croatian capital is relatively in- museums in Za- expensive, there are dozens of hostels, greb and even more and the festival season never ends. around the country. @nocmuzeja.hr NEW IN TOWN Zagreb’s first ZGBLOG pop-up restaurant ZAGREB KICK-OFF Steffani knocks out Cameron is They say teleportation is science a Canadian fiction. But the fine-dining restaurant travel writer Paradigma proves this wrong. One who kicked whiff of a pine-tree infused smoke in a off her five-year round dessert and you’ll travel to a Mediter- the world journey in ranean forest. Already established at Zagreb. After 21 days their Split home address, Paradigma of living it up like a lo- breaks new ground as Zagreb’s first cal, she came up with pop-up restaurant (Vlaška 55, until this slogan: Zagreb – March 21). Choose between ‘Split’ or much more than you’d ‘Zagreb’ tasting menus expect. Steff was and expect mind-blowing after great food, cafe fusion of Mediterranean culture and slow life, and continental food. and that’s what she Lunch (4 courses): 290KN got in Zagreb. Check Dinner (8 courses): 490KN out her Full Nomad ‘We came as a team to bring you our blog for more Zagreb unique performance, and great food ups and downs and all-arounds. is only a part of it.’ Zoran Pejović, fullnomad.com Paradigma managing director YELLOW PAGE New Year double TIPS&TRICKS bill from noon to ZAGREB TAXI HELP midnight N Fužine, a charm- +385 1 1777 112 ing mountain EXCHANGE RATES, town at the heart 90 min (BUY RATE, DECEMBER 1, 2015) of the lush Gorski from Zagreb € 1 7,62; $ 1 7,14; JPY 100 5,79 Kotar region cel- ebrates New Year FOR CHEEP BEER... twice. At midnight, and more pe- Finding cheap beer in the culiarly – at noon! The town turns city center isn’t easy. But into an open-air party, showcas- skip the center and you’ll find ing live music and local delica- great neighborhood haunts. Our pick: Krivi Put on Savska. cies. Don’t miss their famous frog legs, game stew and wild GET TIED UP blueberry pie. Tip: Go for a walk Croatia is the homeland of around the nearby Lake Bajer and the tie (cravat). Buy this original Croatian product visit the attractive Vrelo cave. in Croata salons, located at Kaptol 13 and Ilica 5 (inside the Oktogon passageway). Uber vs Taxi FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is one of Zagreb taxis Zagreb’s most recognizable souvenirs. Grab yours at one of the souvenir shops on match Uber Bakačeva street, below in service the Cathedral. WINE TIP and price If you like white wine, try graševina, the most common In November, Uber came to Croatian white grape variety Zagreb to stay. Regular taxi or Istrian malvazija. If red is your thing, go for plavac mali, companies complained initially, especially great from the Dingač even reported Uber to the traffic and Postup wine regions. control, only to find out the rev- olutionary app taxi is completely SMALL TAILOR REPAIRS If you need small tailor repairs, legit. In the first two weeks, Uber pick one of two tailors (Mega-Cif attracted ten thousand happy or Cik Cak) in Prilaz Sestara customers, who hoped for even Baković, the small passageway lower prices. Just slightly cheap- that connects Masarykova and er than the cheapest Cammeo Varšavska streets. taxi, Uber attracts with the over- all experience, making sure that Zagreb forever keeps a great, and affordable, taxi service. Six+ New DISTANCE: Year’s all- night parties Novi Zagreb MSU Funk club hosts DJ Felver, until 7am. Train station Boogaloo offers Future Scope on two floors, start at 10pm till morning UBER: ride 29KN Super Super throws their own + call 2,50KN + 5 min wait Juicy program, until 8am CAMMEO: ride 29 KN Taboo traditionally gives a party + call 2,50KN + 5 min wait and an afterparty, until Jan 1 at noon RADIO TAXI: ride 38KN Sirup celebrates the seventh + call 2,50KN + 3 min wait anniversary; New Year’s party will last 24 hours EKO TAXI: ride 35KN Secret project is by + call 2,50KN + 5 min wait invitation only, and location is, of course, a secret. We’ll let you know when we find out L

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British Square Built in 1908, this is Swanky Mint Europe Square When it opened in the oldest running public toilet. It kept Hostel This popular 2006, it was the first public toilet in 50 its Art Deco features – the charming hostel (Ilica 50) is a years. A small green house on Europe LAST black-and-white checker floor tiles – and refurbished Square is just an entrance to the much the tradition of cleanliness. The toilet 19th-century textile larger establishment underground. lady tidies up after every visitor. factory. Their cafe MINUTE delights with an industrial vintage Follow your design and toilet sinks sweet tooth Ilica are in fact old tires. Like a lush meal, wrap Ban Jelačić Square up your Zagreb visit with a dessert. Pop into TEND TO YOUR NEED the Kraš chocolaterie on Jelačić Square and TO PEE IN STYLE choose among Croatia’s Clean and close by is what Museum of Arts and Crafts best-known sweets: Ba- an ideal toilet should be. To honor the art and craft of ceramics, jadera and Griotte pra- But some Zagreb toilets are Zagreb’s architect Željko Kovačić more than private cubicles designed a unique colorful toilet line, Domaćica biscuits honoring a biological need. museum. Instead of ‘ladies’ and ‘gents’ or Napolitanke wafers. A century-old public ones, with signs, look for smiling painting faces. They make a perfect original features intact, are as Christmas present - if good as museums in revealing Botanical Garden you can wait that long! the city’s cultural life. Others An example of such unique Art Deco are hidden away in museums, garden architecture and to house designed with such a touch to something as plain as a toilet! Go in even equal a work of art. Zagreb’s if you don’t have to go, and admire the cafes and restaurants keep glass and cast-iron decorations. their restrooms clean, but they 4am also keep up with the arty toilet trend. EAT YOUR WAY

Davor Puklavec / PIXSELL OUT OF A HANGOVER • Tapas at 1am - mix and match tuna, prosciutto or hummus at Mio Corazon (Radićeva 14). 7KN a piece. • Wok at 2am - pick at Asian fusion at Wok and Burger (Jelačić Square) where deals go for 10-15KN; open late on weekends. • Steak after 2am The oldest photo of ‘Hendrix’ is from 1994, though many remember the graffiti from much earlier - hurry to Brewdogs (Gajeva), a sports bar serving American fare; Hendrix wins the case open till midnight on against the Croatian Railway weekdays. • Ćevapi at 3am - t’s official - the Green Railway Bridge is renamed into the Hendrix greasy and cheap, a late- Ibridge. A work of Zagreb graffiti artists, Hendrix has become the Bridge’s night must-eat at Dolac hallmark, even more so after resurfacing on the new coat of paint. Thirty market. years after Hendrix first appeared, adamant graffiti artists won their • Pingvin sandwich case against the Croatian Railway company. Though the 2013 post stamp bar at 4am - prepare to displays the repainted bridge without the graffiti, the Hendrix project wait in line for cheap and attests to the vibrancy of Zagreb urban culture. delicious flat bread with a variety of fillings; the TASTE OF ZAGREB can pay tribute to this best way to meet dawn. wintertime star. Try the Google Maps powered by international classics: don’t show it, Taste of Croatia kranjska (pork and Zagreb Parking denies bacon), debrecinka it exists, but there Sausage and (pork with paprika) and actually is free park- frankfurterka (minced ing in the center of cabbage: a lean pork). Always mix it Zagreb - in Fijanova match made up with local favorites: cul–de–sac, near pečenica (pork and Kvaternik Square. in heaven bacon), češnjovka (pork It can take up to Zagreb’s street food and garlic) or krvavica MORE INFO 50 cars, thanks to scene explodes in De- (blood sausage). Go be- adamant residents cember, and the sausage yond the typical sausage who won their steals the limelight. Food in a bun combo and try it right to park for stands in Bogovićeva and with much loved sautéed free in Zone 2. Tomićeva streets and in sauerkraut. Zrinjevac Sausage in a bun: 15KN, c Park are 350 calories. Sausage with where sauerkraut (restaurant): you 40KN, c 250 calories There are APPS 33,000 parking spaces in the Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . wider center of Zagreb. Meet in Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb be There Places Advent Map Fold & save Your ultimate guide to the best Dec−Jan fun. Pick and choose between events and locations that guarantee 45 days of open-air festivities

N Tkalčićeva 33

Christmas of old Zagreb Klovićevi Dvori gallery Live Nativity Scene Kaptol

Fooling around Advent on by the funicular European Square Tomićeva street

Ban Jelačić Square Fooling around Kurelčeva street Concerts from Zagreb Strauss in Oktogon Christmas balconies

Artomat Fair for Advent on Zrinjevac Unconventional Arts Objects Croatian Trg Žrtava Fašizma National Theater

Ice Park

12 minute walk King Tomislav Square Zagreb tourist board/ Igor Nobilo

Spanning 2000 square meters and with a 400-meter- long trail, Tomislav Square ice-skating rink is the biggest in Croatia.

Average temperature for December/January Advent weather We are promised a mild winter, but that doesn’t say a lot, because Zagreb weather can change quickly. We can expect both rain and snow, cold and sunny days. Zagreb remembers winters as cold as -25 °C and as warm as 23. 6,2°/5,4° C On average it snows five days in December and six days in January. The probability for sunshine is 19%. Events NEW YEAR CONCERT Advent tours Orchestra of traditional Croatian lutes ADVENT CALENDAR tamburica plays waltz, polka and ZAGREB PHOTO Four weekends in a row, four lesser- other festive dances at The Croatian ADVENTURE known Lower Town courtyards open National Theater. Jan 1; 7pm Capture Zagreb at its their doors to the Christmas buzz. most photo-ready and Nov 28-29 - Obrtnički Prolaz STRAUSS IN OKTOGON improve your photo Dec 5-6 - Ilica 69 Peep into the pretty Oktogon skills with world-famous Dec 12-13 - Petrinjska 73 passage, where The Strauss Ensemble photographer Roman Dec 19-20 - Passage between plays waltzes, polkas and marches. Martin. Nov 29–Jan 9, Žerjavićeva 3 and Mihanovićeva Fridays Dec 4, 11, 18, 23; 6-7pm Tue-Sat 3pm. 30/2 streets Saturdays Dec 5, 12, 19, 24; 11am-noon [email protected]. 250KN

ARTOMAT Locations FOODIE ADVENT TOUR Come and see artists create Learn from a renowned unconventional objects, enjoy ADVENT ON JELAČIĆ SQUARE chef about traditional inspirational workshops or just Open-air stage with live music, specialties Zagreb locals chill out in the lounge zone. cultural and art events. eat on Christmas and Dec 16-23, Home of Croatian Artists, Nov 28-Dec 21: weekdays 6pm-9pm, New Year. Tour includes Trg Žrtava Fašizma weekends 11am-1pm and 6pm-9pm a visit to and cooking classes in a CHRISTMAS CONCERTS ADVENT ON EUROPEAN SQUARE restaurant. FROM ZAGREB BALCONIES Christmas market, food and Info & booking: Listen to unique classical music beverages, music events in the [email protected] performed by Ad Gloriam brass evening. Nov 28-Jan 6 ensemble. Tkalčićeva 33 balcony, Dec 6 ADVENT & 20 at 7pm; Croatian National Theater ADVENT AT ZRINJEVAC SIGHTSEEING TOUR balcony, Dec 13, 27 & 7pm Christmas fair in a magical park with Walk through the old the music pavilion. Festive music, historical center with a CHRISTMAS OF OLD ZAGREB unique handmade souvenirs and licensed guide and learn Learn about old Christmas jewelry traditional Zagreb food. about local Christmas and postcards. Get into the mood with Nov 28–Jan 10: weekdays 6pm–10pm, customs. Daily food, music and Christmas bubbles weekends 11am–1pm & 8pm–10pm throughout November blowing. Dec 12–24, and December, at noon Klovićevi Dvori gallery ADVENT IN CROATIAN Info and booking: HISTORY MUSEUM [email protected] CHRISTMAS SWEETS FESTIVAL Learn about Croatia’s Christmas Dessert masters present their Christmas traditions from ancient times to the selection of soft, crunchy and creamy present day. The exhibition showcases handmade cakes and cookies. Come old Christmas tree decorations kept at to eat or join a workshop. Dec 16–23, the Museum. Join a workshop to make 10am-10pm, Karas Gallery, Praška 4 your own decorations to take home. Nov 30–Dec 20 ICE SCULPTURES Watch live the making of amazing FULIRANJE (FOOLING AROUND) artwork made from blocks of ice using Hip and relaxed Advent with unusual tools. Dec 12–24, Gradec art and food events. plateau Nov 28–Jan 6 Tomićeva & Kurelčeva streets LIVE NATIVITY SCENE Cenacolo Community of young formerly ICE PARK marginalized people revives the Glide away at Europe’s biggest atmosphere of Jesus’ birth, boasting open-air ice skating rink. gorgeous scenography. Nov 28–Jan 10 Dec 19-Jan 6, 4.15pm, 5pm & 7pm, King Tomislav Square in front of the Cathedral TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS FAIR NEW YEAR’S DAY CHANGE OF GUARD Seasonal gifts made by local Witness a special New Year’s Day craftsmen, artists and manufacturers changing of the guard, performed by of traditional Croatian products. the honorary company of the Kravat Nov 20–Jan 10 regiment. Jan 1; 11.40am-2pm Streets surrounding Jelačić Square

Experience the magic of Advent in Zagreb

www.adventzagreb.com