in Indiaandyoucanimagine howharditwillbetoleave before youeven gethere. and –ablendofreligious playanddance; chants. Yet even managestoclingitsvibranttraditions: Kerala withitscolonialdistractions, traders,Jewishsettlers,SyrianChristiansandMuslimmer- a taleofChinesevisitors,Portuguese it foryears. The Cochinpayshomagetoitscolonialpast,eachbuildingwhispering serene just thesmellofcardamomgrowingtogettheirjuicesflowing. tions ofspicesandtea. Exoticwildlife alsothrives inthehills,forthosewhoneedmore than sun-worshipping crowd,andfarinlandthemountainousGhatsare covered invastplanta- one bucolicvillagetoanother. sandybeachbeckon the Alongthecoast,slicesofperfect, rice paddiesandcoconutgroves, whilesleekhouseboatscruisethewater highwaysfrom Here, spindlynetworksofrivers, canalsandlagoonsnourishaseeminglyinfinite numberof cialist state, hasaliberalhospitalitythatstandsoutasitsmostlaudableachievement. Kerala soil,andeverything unabashedlywiththefertile glows. andsuccessfulso- flirts Aneasy-going strangers. climate AstripoflandbetweentheArabianSeaandWestern Ghats,itsperfect iswhereKerala Indiaslipsdownintosecondgear,stopstosmell therosesandalwaystalksto Kerala 960 © LonelyPlanetPublications This itssecret: flourishinglandisn’t goodatkeeping adventurers andtradershave beeninon The backwaters are that meanderthroughKerala theemeraldjewelinSouthIndia’scrown.

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS Seeanancient ritualofspiritpossessioncalled Get oiled,rubbedand treated withthearomatic herbsusedin Take ofgreen attea inakaleidoscope plantationsaround Goelephant spottingat Soakintheculture andserenity ofcaptivating backonshimmeringbeachesbyday Kick ofKerala’s Cruisethehydro-highways Thattekkad BirdSanctuary at your logbookforsomebird-watching Wildlife Sanctuary echoing hundreds ofyearscolonialhistory Cochin Fort and feast oncliff-sideseafoodbynightat list our top10things-to-do-before-you-die waters theyyam BirdSanctuary ( p982 ) onahouseboat;anentryin (p973) around – a trance-induced ritual.Mixed withsomeofthemosttastebud-tingling cuisine –atrance-induced ( p1005 ), atrading-postcity (Cannanore, p1021 ) Wayanad ( p988 ), thengrab (p1002) 97) or (p987) 11 or (p1019) back- kalarippayat Kannur Fort Cochin – a gravity-defying martial art; art; –agravity-defyingmartial Ayurvedic massage Backwaters (p999) Varkala Sanctuary Wayanad Kumarakom Bird Wildlife Thattekkad BirdSanctuary Sanctuary Munnar Sanctuary Wildlife Periyar ( p975) KERALA To 49 961 To

(350km) G H A T S

(25km) N 47 T E R Puducherry Bengaluru

Bhavani S () W E Kodaikanal NADU TAMIL Shencottah (1869m) (40km) Malai Top Station Wildlife Chinnar Lake Sanctuary Eravikulam Periyar To Kanyakumari

National Park

Kumily River Periyar Dam & Wildlife Sagar Sanctuary Wildlife Sanctuary Bhavani

Pollachi kovil

Marayoor River 00 50 km 30 miles Thekkady Mettupalayam Achan (2695m) Mandya Munnar

Periyar Idukki Kottarakara Chitranjali 47 Pala Bird Coimbatore (Ooty) 49 Sanctuary Thattekkad Mysore Muvattupula Tiruvilla Coonoor Anjengo Wildlife (Trivandrum) Udhagamandalam Ettumanur Changanassery Sanctuary S Varkala Parambikulam

Sagar T 47 Airport (Quilon) Nagu

A Thattekkad Krishnaraja

H Bird Tripunithura G Sanctuary Silent Valley National Park Cochin International Kumarakom Thangasseri Wildlife Cheruthuruthy Wayanad Sanctuary (Muthanga) 47 Road Amrithapuri (Trichur) Harippad Parur N R Kumarakom Lake E Edapally Shertallai (Alleppey) Thuravoor T (Cochin) Island 17 Vypeen S Sultanbatheri

E Irinjalakuda W (Cranganore) Wildlife Wayanad Sanctuary (Tholpetty) Purakkatri Mananthavadi Madikeri Mahé (Calicut)

() Beach

Iritty 17 Thalasseri KERALA Kannur Kottancherry (Cannanore) A R A B I A N S E A (15km) Nileshwar To Kanhangad KERALA To lonelyplanet.com KERALA for exact dates. dates so check differ, withKerala Tourism ing themonths of January orFebruary. The foratiger foroneweek census dur-close All nationalparks mentionedinthischapter National Parks economy. and remittances playasignificantpart inthe language)official workintheMiddle East, layalis (speakers of , thestate’s (see education statistics p965 ). Many Ma- land andincome,impressive healthand resulted inamore distributionof equitable since. Theparticipatorypoliticalsystem has power in1957andholdingregularly munist government intheworld,comingto progressive inIndia. Independence statethatisoneof themost the artsandeducationresulted inapost- Cochin and Malabar. Atraditionof valuing ofin 1956fromtheformerstates , trade. each other, forcontrolof thelucrative spice lish interests Arab traders, fought andthen Dutch andEng- colonialism asPortuguese, in 1498openedthefloodgates toEuropean territory andtrade. Vasco daGama’sarrival ing withkingdomsandsmallfiefdomsfor Kerala untiltheearlyMiddleAges, compet- the West. products andideasfirst foundtheirwayto sia). Itwasprobably viaKerala thatChinese spices fromtheMoluccas(eastern Indone- andwasatransitpointforand theChinese, theRomans,Arabsto thePhoenicians, more than3000years. Thecoastwasknown la’s spicesandtotheshineof itsivoryfor Traders of have Kera- drawntothewhiff been 962 History Kerala hadthefirst freely elected com- The present-day of state Kerala wascreated The kingdomof Cherasruledmuch of

„ „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS

When to go: October toMarch Whentogo:October Mainlanguage:Malayalam Capital: Thiruvananthapuram Area: 38,864sqkm Population:31.8million OTENKRL • Tiuaataua Tiadu) SOUTHERN KERALA••Thiruvananthapuram(Trivandrum) (Trivandrum) are more erratic. more departure –though comfortable times plus sometheKSRTC don’tcover, andcanbe routes, plythesame punctual. Private buses on earth,butare reliable andnearlyalways thingsnot thefastest ormostcomfortable mostKeralan between buses cities. They’re tion (KSRTC) runsanextensive networkof The Kerala StateRoadTransportCorpora- Getting Around (ApriltoSeptember). season great dealsare to behadduringthemonsoon pricescreep upagain,though peak season, Around themid-Decembertomid-January aroundNovember season high toMarch. towns andbackwater hubs–have adistinct Parts of Kerala –particularlythebeachside ACCOMMODATION companies. sounding namesthatare actuallyprivate tour awaremajor of towns.Be placeswithofficial- or TouristFacilitation –inmost Centres trict TourismPromotionCouncil(DTPC) with informationoffices –usuallycalledDis- .org) Tourism Kerala Information artery of town, runs4kmnorth–south from Mahatma Gandhi(MG) Rd,thetraffic-clogged Orientation traveller trail. town forvisitors withtimetowander off the there are somegreat attractionsinandaround resorts of nearbyKovalam andVarkala, but visitors it’sjustagateway tothegolden-sand exponentially thefurtheryouwalk. Formost line thenarrow,windinglanes,and life slows Pagoda-shaped buildings withred-tiled roofs much of oldKerala’s ambienceremains intact. main roadtoappreciate itsgentler side,where thefume-filled fora off racetrackthatpasses low hills.Youonlyhave towalkafew metres nial name,understandably) rests uponseven drum (manypeoplestillcallitbythiscolo- The unpretentious ofcapital Kerala, Trivan- % (TRIVANDRUM) THIRUVANANTHAPURAM SOUTHERN KERALA 0471 /pop889,191 is agovernment tourismpromotionbody

( % 0471-2321132; www.keralatourism lonelyplanet.com KERALA 963

kootiattam 2331643; MG Rd; 2321132; Museum Rd; % 2330031; Central Sta- ( % % ( ( 2307874; Statue Rd) About 1km 2473071; MG Rd) % % ( ( here’s all-night Kathakalihere’s dancing on 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Arranges KTDC9am-5pm Tue-Sun) (see tours p985 ) T h 8.30am-9pm) Prints and produces CDs from digital; 10am-5pm) Supplies maps and brochures. sells memory cards and digital accessories. h tion Rd; ) and car rental. p966 west of MG Rd. TOURIST INFORMATION CentreTourist Facilitation Tourist Reception Centre General hospital MONEY cards all that accept foreign ATMs are There can be pro- cheques along MG Rd. Travellers cessed at the Canara Bank. PHOTOGRAPHY DigitalParamount Colour Lab POST & TELEPHONE kiosks around several STD/ISD are There town. Main post office MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES h emple, Kottayam, (2nd Sat in Aug; Punnamadakalyal, Alappuzha (Alleppey), p984 ) The most p984 (2nd Sat in Aug; Punnamadakalyal, Alappuzha (Alleppey), (Dec/Jan; Asraman Maidan, Kollam (Quilon), p978 ) This festival, held every ) This festival, p978 (Dec/Jan; Asraman Maidan, Kollam (Quilon), 9am-1pm & 2-6pm 7.30am-11.30pm) (Jan/Feb; Temple, Ernakulam, Kochi (Cochin), p1007 ) Hugely significant ) Hugely p1007 Ernakulam, Kochi (Cochin), Shiva Temple, (Jan/Feb; h h (Mar;Thirunakkara T Shiva 2331826; Gandhari Amman (Aug/Sep; near Shree Parthasarathy Temple, Aranmula, p988 ) This water regatta recreates recreates ) This water regatta p988 Aranmula, (Aug/Sep; Parthasarathy near Shree Temple, 2320666; [email protected]; % (Apr/May; Vadakkumnatha Temple, Thrissur (Trichur), p1016 ) The elephant procession to end p1016 Thrissur (Trichur), (Apr/May; Temple, Vadakkumnatha ( (Apr; Asraman Shree Swami Temple, Kollam (Quilon), p978 ) There are full-night are ) There p978 Kollam (Quilon), Krishna (Apr; Asraman Shree Temple, Swami (Feb/Mar; Bhaghavathy Temple, Chettikulangara village, near Kayamkulam, Chettikulangara Temple, Bhaghavathy (Feb/Mar; (Manjalikulam Rd; per hr Rs 20; % 2330716; www.britishcouncilonline ( Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) SOUTHERN KERALA •• 11am-7pm Mon-Sat) Open only to % 2453379; www.dcbooks.com; Statue Rd; 2453379; www.dcbooks.com; ( h 9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat) % (MG Rd; per hr Rs 20; (Aug/Sep; statewide) Kerala’s state biggest cultural celebration is the 10-day , when the entire ( h 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Kerala’s excellent bookshop 9am-9.30pm) Fast connections in cartoon-coloured 9am-9.30pm) Fast celebrates the golden age of mythical King Mahabali. This is primarily a family affair, with an emphasis on feasting anticipation of the king’s visit. and decorating the home in for residents of Kochi, the climax of this eight-day festival brings climax of this eight-day festival of Kochi, the splendidly decorated elephants, a procession of 15 for residents fireworks. ecstatic music and popular of Kerala’s boat races. the third and fourth processions of caparisoned are elephants. there on the last two nights nights of this 10-day festival; all elephant processions. Thrissurall elephant processions. is Kerala’s hot spot; see the Thrissur festival section details. for more Ashtamudi Craft & ArtCraft Festival Ashtamudi Onam Thrissur Thrissur Race Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Pooram Festival Bharni Utsavam Utsavam Thirunakkara FESTIVALS IN KERALA IN KERALA FESTIVALS mid-May) to November season from festival during (but especially on any night the state Across array of performing an featuring being held, festivals temple of vivid hundreds literally are there arts Some highlights: odd elephant procession. and rituals, music and the Utsavam Ernakulathappan a ritualistic of Krishna. journey in honour It’s a spectacularly exciting event, with crowds cheering as rowers shout along with the songs of the boatmen. folk artsecond year, features from all over , with workshops, demonstrations and exhibitions. Kathakali performances a procession of 40 ornamented elephants during there’s on the last day festival; this 10-day in Asraman Maidan. p980 ) This one-day is dedicated to the popular Keralan festival for its goddess Bhagavathy. It’s famous p980 (traditional ritual drama) and the spectacular effigies. procession to the temple of larger-than-life members (Rs 900 per year), but visitors can usually browse. h chain, with a respectable selection of fiction in English and nonfiction books on India. Kovil Rd; Forest Office Forest Lane, Vazhuthacaud; Mon-Sat) Library and cultural events. .org; YMCA Rd; he best and friendliest of severalin this internet places small mall. Yahoo Internet City Almikkice INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Modern Book Centre DC Books British Library BOOKSHOPS & LIBRARIES BOOKSHOPS & LIBRARIES Alliance Française the museums the Sri Padmanab- and zoo to area. haswamy Temple Information lonelyplanet.com h cubicles. KERALA

964

Veli TouristPark(8km) To Airport(6km); Rd Chettikulangara Rd Chettikulangara School (200m) To MargiKathakali 35

4 Padmavilasam Rd Padmavilasam 6 1 3 2 5 THIRUVANANTHAPURAM (TRIVANDRUM) 7 General Hospital 21

Thakaraparambu Rd Tourist FacilitationCentre...... Paramount DigitalColourLab.... Modern BookCentre...... ICICI ATM...... HDFC ATM...... General Hospital...... Federal BankATM...... DC Books...... Canara Bank&ATM...... (see44) Canara Bank&ATM...... British Library...... Andhra BankATM...... (see29) Almikkice...... Alliance Française...... INFORMATION anPs fie...... A4 Main PostOffice...... OTENKRL • Tiuaataua Tiadu) SOUTHERN KERALA••Thiruvananthapuram(Trivandrum) Junction

South Rd Kochi (222km) Varkala (51km); On Sea(20km); To WildPalms

Ambujar

Fort Gate Rd Statue AC Ganapathy 18 Chirakulam Rd Temple

15 il asam Rd asam 14 Pathom AThanu 31 Gate 33 Junction 26 9 Statue PMG Kerala Legislative 40

MG Rd 10

38 2 Central 12

Assembly To Kovalam

36 Press Rd Press 25

Gate 37 34 4 50 39 (15km) 53 46 5 44 Victoria Jubilee Secretariat 11

Building Chalai Bazaar Chalai 6 Town Hall

42 Sta

Stadium

layam layam Manjalikulam 32

GAK

ti 27 Rd 13 12 11 10

on Power House Rd House Power 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ὈὈὈ ὈὈ 28 43 St George'sOrthodox

Government Sanskrit 29 Rd 3

Stadium Rd B3 A5 A5 A5 C2 A4 A4 A4 A5 B4 A4 C3

Rd Punnen Rd Mateer Memorial Church Christ YMCA Rd Syrian Church

41 Rd Station 30 Train College 47 Church 52 St Joseph's Zoological Gardens...... Museums)...... Sri ChitraArtGallery...... Reptile House...... Puthe MaligaPalaceMuseum.... Natural HistoryMuseum...... ...... CVN KalariSangham...... College...... Yahoo InternetCity...... (see34) Tourist ReceptionCentre...... (see29) Temple...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Ticket Counter(forZooand Sri Padmanabhaswamy SS Kovil Rd Cathedral 45 Victoria Diamond B Jubilee Library 49

Palayam

24 Museum 13 Zoological Gardens 22 Junction 16

Vazhuthacaud Rd Junction Panavila Junction 19 23 Bakery 20 Kanakunna 17 C Kesavan Palace Statue 1 Hospital Rd Poojapurra (4km) 21 23 22 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

Thycaud Sciences (4km); A6 B2 B2 B2 B3 A6 C3 B3 A6 A5 To Academy of Magical Wild PalmsHomeStay...... Pravin TouristHome...... Omkar Lodge...... Muthoot Plaza...... Manjalikulam TouristHome.....(see34) Kukie's HolidayInn...... KTDC HotelMascot...... Hotel Regency...... Hotel HighlandPark...... Hotel Geeth...... Homeland...... Greenland Lodge...... ushue...... A4 Guesthouse...... YWCA International SLEEPING Vazhuth B5 KTDC HotelChaithram......

aca

ud 48 Rd Headquarters 8 East FortBusStand(Buses& A4 Kerala HouseFamilyRestaurant.. TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING Municipal BusStand...... KSRTC BusStand...... Jet Airways...... Indian Airlines...... (see30) TaxistoKovalam)...... Airtravel Enterprises...... Air India...... SMSM Institute...... Sankers Coffee&Tea...... Connemara Market...... Sree KumarCinema...... (see29) Tiffany’s Restaurant...... (see32) Spencer's Daily...... Regency...... Prime Square...... Maveli Café...... Kalavara FamilyRestaurant...... Indian CoffeeHouse...... (see13) Azad Restaurant...... Ananda Bhavan...... Police 0 0 Junction Sasthamangalam Junction To Dhanwantari Ashram(30km); Kanyakumari (88km) lonelyplanet.com 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 Palace (85km); (31km); D A5 B5 A4 A5 A5 B4 A5 B3 B5 B5 A4 Ponmudi (58km) 51 YogaVedanta To Sivananda 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 0.3 miles 500 m A6 B5 D2 A6 B3 C2 B4 A5 B3 A4 B4 B5 B5 A4 A5 A4 KERALA

park 965 . showcases is held here is held here (admission Rs 20;

(sacred stones) stones) (sacred is housed in the (gateway tower). tower). (gateway 8am-7.30pm) h gopuram gopuram salagramam classical music festival Puthe Maliga Museum Palace 2500785; admission Rs 5; 8.30am-1pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sun) The annual The temple is officially open to officially is open to Hindus The temple % In the inner sanctum, the Padmanabha sanctum,In the inner the deity Padmanabha Kanai Kunhiraman. It’s well designed, and Kanai and conches the ponds, mammoth concrete an for quasi-erotic curves the artwork make of backdrop for a picnic or a stroll. interesting 200-year-old palace of the Travancore maha- Travancore the of palace 200-year-old it architecture, Based on typical Keralan rajas. has carved wooden ceilings, marble sculptures Belgianand even imported glass – it took Inside to complete. four years 5000 workers an armoury, images, you’ll find Kathakali thrones and ornate Maharajas, portraits of other artefacts. in January/February. VELI TOURIST PARK Lake and the Arabian Veli of junction At the sea, the city, this unique 8km west of ( by local artist sculptures strikingly oversized city’s erstwhile guardian. Spilling over 2400 over Spilling guardian. erstwhile city’s 30m tall, is the its main entrance sq metres, seven-tier eastern serpentsacred on the and is made reclines 10,000 from over and no doubt slowly, purportedly, that were by elephant. from transported the to the rightonly, but the path around of the good views of offers gate MUSEUM PALACE PUTHE MALIGA The h has is is (admission Rs 6, (admission Rs 6,

4am-7.30pm) are among the among the are has paintings of has paintings of h ( zoo ticket), where where zoo ticket),

10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 10am-5pm Tue , covers the follow- , covers h hings do their thing and ( Natural History Museum temple has an eclectic display of of has an eclectic display 10am-4pm) zoological gardens Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) SOUTHERN KERALA •• museums

h 9am-5.15pm Tue-Sun) 9am-5.15pm Tue-Sun) (

(entrance with Sri Chitra Art Gallery h in the park. Housed absorbing in an Kerala has been labelled ‘the most socially advanced state in India’ by Nobel prize–winning in India’ by Nobel prize–winning Kerala has been labelled ‘the most socially advanced state invest- or foreign A lack of any industrial development is not all rosy, however. picture The

Napier Museum gallery and In 1957, Kerala was first in the world to freely elect a communist government. While communism’s communism’s While elect government. a communist In 1957, Kerala was first in the world to freely other partshammer and sickle hasn’t had much luck in running of the world, Kerala’s unique track record. impressive blend of democratic-socialist principles has a pretty have health and education economist Amartya and a focus on infrastructure, Sen. Land reform (91%) is the highest of any developing rate part literacy The played a large in Kerala’s success. goes back centuries to the days of nation in the world, though a strong history of education infant mortality The Kerala in is one-fifth rate magnanimous Rajas missionaries. and active of expectancy at 73 years, 10 years higher than the rest stands while life the national average, of the country. their ambitions curtailed. might explain why have youth This ment means that many educated the country. A big and liquor consumption statistics in Kerala also has the highest suicide rates as one of India’s most boom in tourism, with Kerala emerging is the recent hope for the future for coming, and congratulations on being a part So, thanks popular new tourist hot spots. of the solution. LEADER OF THE PACK LEADER OF THE PACK A single Rs 6 entry ticket, purchased at the A single Rs 6 entry ticket, The modern The modern

Thiruvananthapuram’s spiritual heart and the SRI TEMPLE SRI PADMANABHASWAMY This 260-year-old case. The The case. hundreds of stuffed and birds, a fine animals of hundreds and the odd empty display collection skeleton and schools, the , Mughal and Tanjore works by Ravi Varma. interior is stunning and worth a look in its is stunning and worth interior own right. The dusty the the carts temple bronzes, Buddhist sculptures, and ivory carvings.carnivalesque The painted 1-5pm Wed) from 1880, wooden building Keralan-style ticket counter ing ask what the cute guinea pigs are for. for. are guinea pigs ask what the cute dozens of the slithery t dozens of their hoods – just don’t flare cobras frequently woodland and lakes, where animals happily ca- where woodland and lakes, that mimic enclosures open rouse in massive, also a separate their natural habitats. There’s reptile house most impressive in the subcontinent. There There in the subcontinent. most impressive meandering through miles of shaded paths are

This well- cultivated collection of museums, of collection cultivated This well- a peaceful an excellent zoo are a gallery and the city. the flurry of from haven Sights & Activities & Activities Sights & MUSEUMS GARDENS ZOOLOGICAL lonelyplanet.com camera Rs 20; KERALA h thoughtfully maintained andoffer maintained frilly bits, thoughtfully a smalllane. Therooms are very simple but oped ingolden,verdant silenceattheend of Rs 150/325) lullaby. a sweet thestreet isn’texactly though noise enough, mosquito cream Rooms are night! every clean bare throwinafree rationof rooms,itdoes While Omkaroffers little more than cramped, Rd hotels are Manjalikulam Rd–streetside roomsinMG The besthuntinggroundisalongthequieter BUDGET Sleeping Mondays whensomeplacesare closed. 1pm, 2to7pm;fullday8.30am7pm).Avoid 8.30amto plusKovalamsights beach (half-day full-day toursRs80/130) ple. The mari ( p1085 ) andthenearbySuchindram Tem- Padmanabhapuram Palace ( p973 ), Kanyaku- Tour Chaithram KTDC offers tours, leaving fromthe Tours viewing. sessions Sathyan with someexperienceinmartialarts.Contact courses (Rs1000permonth)in to Friday. held10amtonoonMonday sessions practise class. Visitors attheuncostumed canpeek as advanced.Fees average Rs200per1½-hour genuine students–absolute beginners aswell theboxed(see text, p1011 ) and Fort School, conductscourses inKathakali Margi School Kathakali Courses resort-style, ambience. ratherthanWestern expect Indianhospital, tor) free of charge. towaitinline,and Expect treatments (after withadoc- consultation panchakarma Rd; The studentsat AYURVEDA 966 (see boxed(see text, p1011 students ) forserious Kukie’s HolidayInn Kukie’s Lodge Omkar Sangham Kalari CVN h 10am-1pm &5-6.30pm) (per personRs250; OTENKRL • Tiuaataua Tiadu) SOUTHERN KERALA••Thiruvananthapuram(Trivandrum) 8am-1pm)

( ( h %

Thisgem of acheapie liesenvel- Thiruvananthapuram CityDayTour Thiruvananthapuram (Central StationRd) 7-8.30am Mon-Sat) 2474182) performmassage andgeneral very (cleansingandpurification)

( % Ayurveda College Ayurveda visitsTrivandrum’smajor noisy. for details. Daily fordetails. h 2451803; MGRd;s/dRs130/230)

( ( % % 7.30am-9pm Tue-Sun) offers three-month

. The ( % 2478530; Lukes Lane; s/d2478530; Lukes 2478806; Fort) are openforpublic 2474182; SouthRd; Kanyakumari Day Day Kanyakumari (

kootiattam % kalarippayat 2460190; MG KTDC Hotel Hotel KTDC , behind training visits visits

(half-/ for

like pinkfloralcurtains. except forafew oddgrandmotherlytouches rooms here are massive andtidybut spartan, .vsnl.net.in; Rd;sRs895-1495,d1095-1895; Mathrubhumi Manjalikulam CrossRd;s/dRs375/600,withAC800/950; Manjalikulam excellent choice rest. foragoodnight’s lots of hushandplentyof smiles,thisisan a budget prices. It ischaracterless midrange qualityfornear austere roomsinabrand-spankingnewhotel. with ACRs675/800; Homeland MIDRANGE inallofthe slowestelevators India. quieter. Theyhave a10pmcurfew, aswell facingawayfromthestreet areThose much they’re wellkept andoffer spaceinspades. the roomsare abittattered aroundtheedges, MG Rd;s/d/trRs250/350/450,dwithAC600; Youget free mosquitocoilsnightly. staff. runbysmiling of all,it’sefficiently toilets. Best space andcomewithhybridsquat/Western span roomsare excellentvalue,have lotsof ser enity-inducing pastel colours. Spick-and- Rs 184/276) ButClean). (Basic label: BBC example of ourfavourite Indianbudget-hotel s/d Rs170/253) of thebestbang-for-buck around. like wicker chairs paintwork.Some andbright come with AC and lounge and chairs, cable TV flash going onhere, but theagreeable rooms all Rd;s/dfromRs900/1500; Ambujarilasam and afriendlyvibe (breakfast included). home hasspaciousrooms,handsome furniture garden? Thislavish family butcomfortable a any real character –where wouldyouhave else a across theroad. this foritsoldersister-hotel, Hotel Highland, gle roomsare really cramped.Don’tmistake new andinvery thesin- goodnick,though d Rs450/600,withAC750/850; Rd;s/dRs400/600,withAC700/750; likulam Venus deMilo YWCA International Guesthouse YWCA International Lodge Greenland Hotel Highland Park Highland Hotel Home Tourist Manjalikulam Hotel Regency Hotel Home Pravin Tourist Hotel Geeth Hotel Wild Palms HomeStay ) ) Theonlypadinthispricerange that offers Withsmall,cosyrooms,aleafyentryway, Greenland greets youwithlotsof

( % Pravin’s roomsare anoutstanding

2338415; Manjalikulam Rd;s/dRs350/490, 2338415; Manjalikulam ( %

( a statue greet statue youin the front % 2471987; www.geethinternational.in;

( % ) 2330377; www.hotelregency.com; ( Homeland

%

( %

( 2328114; ThampanoorJn;s/d % 2338800; Manjalikulam Rd;s/ 2338800; Manjalikulam 2330443; Manjalikulam Rd; 2330443; Manjalikulam a 2471175; wildpalm@md3

( ) This isrelatively % lonelyplanet.com ( a %

has spotless, 2330776; Manja- Nothingtoo ) 2477308; 4thfl, a a While ) The ) KERALA

Sree 10am- 9am- 9am- 967 at the 9am-8pm h h h

Air India 9am-5.30pm h Jet Airways h

(MG Rd; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) 2358910; www.magic h % and

( 2330469; MG Rd; (Muthoot lunch Rs 350, Plaza; (MG Rd; buffet Rs 275) (MG Rd; buffet

% 2314781; Museum Rd; (

2330298; YMCA Rd; . Ever wanted to learn how wanted Ever Spencer’s Daily %

( 2331222; Central Station Rd; admission % (

Regency (MG Rd; nonveg mains Rs 17-40) (MG Rd; nonveg % (

(Central Station Rd; mains from Rs 25) (Central Station You’ll smell the fresh coffee well coffee You’ll smell the fresh and 11am-11pm) h have offices in Trivandrum. have Contrary to intuition, this place is not Indian Airlines Tiffany’s RestaurantTiffany’s 2728864; Sasthamangalam Junction; 2500585; International Airport; is a well-stocked supermarket with lots of with lots of supermarket is a well-stocked Sankers Coffee & Tea Jet Airways and Indian Airlines fly daily Airways and Indian Airlines Jet SMSM Institute For a quick Bolly- or Hollywood fix, try % % 1pm & 1.45-5.35pm Mon-Sat) ( Mon-Sat) to Mumbai (Bombay, US$262). ( (US$115), while Indian Airlines flies to Kochi you’ve ever seenyou’ve in one place. this dainty little shop. It sells you reach before (Rs 240 per kilo- Nilgiri Export OP Leaf Tea and nuts. coffee gram) and a variety of Mon-Sat) messaging, but text to the study of dedicated handicraft em- Government–run is a Kerala reasonably porium with an Aladdin’s den of statue priced goodies. A giant dancing-Shiva you at the entrance. will greet Getting There & Away AIR Both Entertainment Entertainment Academy of Magical Sciences muthukad.com; Poojapurra) rope trick? This is on earth they do that Indian works to preserve This academy your chance. to recognition give traditional Indian magic, students in the art magicians and train street and has a shows illusion. It holds regular of shop selling magic kits. Fun. Kumar Cinema Rs 30-35; Shopping to see Wander around Connemara Market goats, fab- , live selling vegetables, vendors than ric, clothes, spices and more There are plenty of good places to eat near the eat near the places to good of plenty are There train stations:bus and Azad Restaurant Prime Square buffets at places good hotel of a choice There’s like dinner Rs 450) Hotel. South Park 9pm) food, and even tampons!Western Popular place with a juice bar attached. Popular place with Keralan 28). fish curry (Rs and a great-value specialities 9pm Mon-Sat) )

samb- lunch & ai Part of of Part Lots of Lots of ) 8.30am- h (fish pieces SOUTHERN KERALA •• Kovalam pollichathu h Statue Rd; mains Rs ( molee ais

(Press Rd; dishes Rs 30-105; (Press 2756781; ; s/d from 2756781; Puthenthope; 2318990; [email protected]; 2318990; [email protected]; (coconut water) and (coconut water) 2337733; www.sarovarhotels.com; %

( % ) A favourite of Trivandrum’s of A favourite (MG Rd; dishes Rs 15-20; (

% (

a

(Central Station Rd; dishes Rs 15-45) karikku A resort-style place about 20km place about 20km A resort-style (buttermilk with ginger and chilli). with ginger (buttermilk This veg restaurant hones its skills on restaurant This veg opposite the zoo. opposite Don’t expect much in the way of décor way of in the Don’t expect much ) lunch & dinner; Ananda Bhavan Kalavara Restaurant Family Kerala Restaurant Family House Maveli Café Muthoot Plaza Wild Palms On SeaWild Palms atmospheric rooftop dining. atmospheric rooftop Keralan fish dishes; the fish fish Keralan in coconut sauce, Rs 59) is excellent and there’s h middle class, this place does commendable of 75) and a range biryanis (Rs 41 to lunchtime and spices, is also top-notch. curry masalaThe fish (Rs 50). in leaf),(baked vegetables with ginger, 25-55) (think formica), but do expect one mean fish- 6pm dian Coffee Housedian Coffee (Museum Rd; storey spiralling tower lined by bench tables. by bench spiralling tower lined storey Equal parts funhouse and Indian diner, it’s a In- of a traditional branch must-see. There’s the Indian Coffee House chain, Maveli serves Maveli Housethe Indian Coffee chain, in a unique, narrow, four- its standard tucker haram For some unusual refreshments with your meal, For some unusual refreshments look out for travellers, with free breakfast and damned and damned breakfast with free travellers, efficient service. Eating In an unabashedly modern, cool-aqua glass In an unabashedly and plush rooms are tower, even the cheaper It’s studiously focusedtop value. on business Punnen Rd; s/d from Rs 3300/3800, ste from Rs 6500; Punnen Ayurvedic for visits spa, and it’s convenient to the zoo, museums galleries. and sort of charisma missing from modern-mau- missing charisma sort of and an pool a monster There’s soleum hotels. stylish period touches, massive hallways and hallways massive touches, period stylish this place the lend area an imposing reception KTDCHotel Mascot Mascot Sq; s/d from Rs 2400/2900; TOP END TOP END Rs 1295/1595) eager staff for good measure. The top-floor top-floor The staff eager measure. for good recommended. comes restaurant Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book South Indian and tandoori It’s a clas- dishes. sit-down-and-dig-in-with-your- sic Keralan hands type situation. from town on a secludedfrom town 350 by (Rs beach taxi),as Wild Palms by the same run owners Home Stay. dinner) KERALA table below. table 2331704; NewCorporationBldg,MGRd; hours) forconnectionstoOoty. batore (sleeper/3AC/2AC Rs194/514/728,11 toTamilghat) Nadu.Youcantravel toCoim- many others branch offeastviaPalakkad (Pal- and ErnakulamtoThrissur. Thrissur, Beyond to 2pmSun) visiting the Trains are often heavily booked, soit’sworth TRAIN on MGRd. the southernendof Fortbusstand theEast 15 minutes)5.40amand10pmfrom between 16 hours). at 2pmforPuducherry (Pondicherry, Rs265, (known asOoty;Rs258,14hours) andone daily busat3.45pmforUdhagamandalam hours, ninedaily).There’s(Rs 135,seven one (Rs 306,17hours, daily)andMadurai eight ern endof theKSRTC for busstand Corporation (SETC) leave buses fromtheeast- Sanctuary. hours)kady (Rs141,eight forPeriyar Wildlife ( operatingfromthe For buses BUS Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pmSun). efficient to ColomboandMale; see p1165 . nai (Madras, US$157)andDelhi(US$442). (Bangalore, US$162),Chen- flies toBengaluru 968 % There’s alsoadaily8.45ambustoThek- A bunch of trainsrunupthecoastviaKollam leaveBuses (Rs8,every forKovalam Beach All airlinebookingscanbemadeatthe There are regular fromTrivandrum flights For Tamil Express Nadu,State Transport (KSRTC BUSSTAND) BUSES FROMTRIVANDRUM Neyyar Dam 20 1½ every 40min every 1½ 32 Varkala hourly 20 1¼ 168 Thrissur 7½ 6 Neyyar Dam every daily Kollam 42 2 Kochi 124 1½ 30min 5 40 Kanyakumari every Alleppey 90 every 3½ every Frequency (Rs) Duration 15min Fare 15min Destination 15min (hr) 2323886) OTENKRL • Aon rvnrm SOUTHERN KERALA••AroundTrivandrum . Airtravel Enterprises Airtravel , opposite the train station, see the see , opposite thetrainstation, reservation office reservation (

h

( 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, KSRTC busstand KSRTC % h 2334202; fax 9.30am-6pm

the cityandRs313toKovalam. voucherstaxi fromtheairportcostRs206to (Rs5).Prepaid Fortbusstand from theEast and 15kmfromKovalam; take localbus14 Mangalore inKarnataka includethedaily plying thelengthof MGRd (Rs 3). is tohoponandoff anyof the crowded buses fare beforehand. Acheap waytoget around –50%overnight themeter isfair. Agree ona kilometre, butallrulesgooutthewindowat themeter) areuse Rs10flagfall,then5per rates (assumingyoucanconvincedrivers to the easiesttransportaroundcity.Standard The Getting Around yakumari (Rs131/213/291,twohours). 3AC/2AC Rs190/505/716,11hours) andKan- (sleeper/ toCalicut There are dailyservices (2nd class/AC chair Rs47/180,three hours). hours), withthree Alleppey passingthrough lam (2ndclass/3AC/2AC Rs60/335/470,4½ Kollam (Rs31/167,1¼hours) andErnaku- class/AC chair Rs24/142,around45minutes), 6.30pm). Express 154/547, 16hours, 6.35am)and Parasuram Express Trivandrum (Rs16,1½hours). costs Ataxi 30-minute ridesforRs100. (Kappukadu; waters (Rs50).The and youcangoforadipinthelake’s pristine Centre Protection 400/800 pergroupofupto10people) on athree-hour guided ting opportunitiesit’sbetter tosneakaround monkeys thanbigcats.Forimproved spot- you’refor guide),though more likely tosee lionsafaris occasional tiger. macaquesandthe sloth, elephants,lion-tailed the shoreline ishometogaurs, deer, sambar 1964 Neyyardam.Theverdant forest lining aroundanidylliclakeis set created bythe h This Neyyar DamSanctuary AROUND TRIVANDRUM Autorickshaws patrolthestreets andare Trains thattravel upthecoastasfar You can get here byfrequent busfrom There are frequent trainstoVarkala (2nd The sanctuary office organises 40-minute office The sanctuary 9am-4pm Tue-Sun) airport sanctuary (sleeper/3AC/2AC Rs261/705/1000, h (Rs250percar,plusRs10each

( % 9am-5pm),

( % 2501537)

, 32kmnorthof Trivandrum, (Indian/foreigner Rs5/10) 2272182; Indian/foreigner Rs10/100; (2ndclass/AC chair Rs elephant rehabilitation centre elephant rehabilitation 7kmuptheroad, offers is6kmfromthecity trek . There’s a lonelyplanet.com

(Indian/foreigner Rs Malabar nearby Crocodile

KERALA 969 10am- h 9.30am- 9.30am-10pm h 9am-9pm) A kooky 9am-9pm) A kooky h 2480085; It’s worth seeking h % ( 2480632; (per hr Rs 30; (per hr % ( 2383908; d Rs 250) 10am-1pm Mon-Sat) 10am-1pm (NUP Beach Rd; (NUP Beach Rd; % h

( ( Prices quoted are for the November to to for the November are Prices quoted There are strong rips at both ends of Light- of strong rips at both ends are There blackouts and the has frequent Kovalam BUDGET BUDGET Pink Flower surprise this place out, at least for the look of on friendly Mr Sadanandan’s face that you guesthouse. to find his little Tucked managed several well away in the palms behind hotels, Mon-Sat, 9.30m-12pm Sun) Has two English-speakingMon-Sat, 9.30m-12pm Sun) Has doctors who can take injuries. of minor care Sleeping is bumper to bumper with hotels, Kovalam than usual places cost more though budget Beach- in number every year. fewer and are and expensive the most front properties are sea these cater views, but many of great have better- lots of are groups. There to package away in the laby- value, smaller places tucked palm among the beach behind paths rinth of and rice paddies. groves high season; these times outside of March discounts. During the expect huge rush savvy double their owners and New Year usually doubles, are prices. Rooms offered a small bargain often though single travellers discount. collection Kerala, of books on Indian spirituality and English-language trash lit. Dangers & Annoyances the parade of to grow tired likely Women are stroll along who male Indian daytrippers of glimpsing female in the hope of the beach dangerous, annoying than – it’s more flesh Theft does occur, both from hotels however. and windows Lock the doors and the beach. your possessionsand watch the beach. at house Beach that carry away severalswim- Swim only between the flags every year. mers patrolled by lifeguards. in the area Lighthouse back behind further footpaths (flashlight)Beachcarry a torch unlit, so are dark. after Post office Cyber CafeTop Shop Tourist centre facilitation entrance to the Kovalam helpful, inside the 5pm) Very Beach Resort. United Books Upasana Hospital midnight) Off the only the beach up a steep hill, this is seriousjoint. internet /fax % (

SOUTHERN KERALA •• Kovalam ashram , established in 7am-11pm) A good range of books to h (

0471

rent/buy/exchange, underneath the Germanrent/buy/exchange, Bakery. STD/ISD facilities around. STD/ISD Bookshop ATMs at Kovalam Junction. There are also are Junction. There at Kovalam ATMs places small, uniformly slow internet plenty of 30 to 50 per hour and lots of Rs charging change your money, but ask around for the change Bank and ICICI Federal are There best rate. Just about every shop and hotel wants to wants to Just about every shop and hotel Junction, about 1.5km from the beaches. Information populated beaches north and south by rocky beaches populated headlands. The town proper is at Kovalam Kovalam consists of two coves (Lighthouse two coves consists of Kovalam Beach)Beach separated from less- and Hawah to kick back for a few days, particularly during to kick back for a few times. quieter Orientation particularly once you step off the main-beach the main-beach off particularly once you step drag into the rice paddies and palm groves far inland. It can be a good place that stretch neered India’s tourism industry. Nevertheless, Nevertheless, India’s tourism industry. neered charm, of clings to some remnants Kovalam charter-group itineraries, these days there is these itineraries, days there charter-group that pio- little room left for the budgeteers its lovely slice of sand and perfectly swaying sand and perfectly slice of its lovely tattooed on European palms. Permanently prices and indefatigable souvenir-sellers of of prices and indefatigable souvenir-sellers almost worth putting up with for are Kovalam KOVALAM KOVALAM % development, bloated beachfront The frenzied and Ayurvedic also avail- are courses massage these to go when one of best able – it’s often is running. (included in the rates). Prior bookings are bookings are Prior (included in the rates). training Month-long -teacher required. to 10pm) of yoga practise, meditationto 10pm) of and about the food and students rave chanting; Low season (April to October) rates are Rs Low season are rates (April to October) (6am an exacting schedule 100 less. There’s and cost Rs 650 per day for accommodation and cost Rs 650 per day 450 in dormitories). in a double room (Rs 0471-2273093; www.sivananda.org/ndam) courses. yoga for its hatha 1978, is renowned two weeks a minimum of run for Courses Just before Neyyar Dam, this Neyyar Dam, this before Just Rs 650 return (with two hours waiting time) time) waiting two hours (with return Rs 650 half that. costs rickshaw bumpy very and a Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari Sivananda Ashram Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ

KERALA run-of-the-mill placehassmall,dark,down- run-of-the-mill crete buildingisalittle grimy,butinsideyou TV, fridge andacommunalbalcony. TV, stairs roomsandbigger upstairs oneswith downstairs/upstairs Rs350/500,withAC1200; with long-term travellers. of paths behind themainbeach. It’spopular inamaze helped alongbyitstranquilsetting small garden.There’s chill-out vibe, atangible galow-style roomsfacingeach otherover a great placehasspacious,ifabitdark,bun- digs inKovalam. spotless roomsthat mayjustbethecheapest this lovingly kept humble, placehas several 970 2 4 1 3 2 KOVALAM 16 Hotel Hotel HolidayHome Hotel Dwaraka Lodge Dwaraka L akshdwep 32 OTENKRL • Kvlm SOUTHERN KERALA••Kovalam S ea ὄὄ ὄὄ AC Hawah Beach

( %

( Beach % 7 31 2481012; [email protected]; d2481012; [email protected]; (

% 28 2480411; dRs400)

3

Lighthouse NUP Beach Rd Beach NUP 2486382; dRs300-800) 27 Beach Lighthouse 4 18 26 ὄ ὈὈ ὈὈ 33 1 25 6 Mosque 24 20 30 5 14 15 9 12 Thiscon- B Paddies

22 13

19 11 Rice

Lighthouse Lighthouse GV Raja Rd Raja GV a 23 17 29 10

This

) This Rd 8 To KovalamJunction(1.5km); Pachalloor Village(4km); paddy fields,thisserene spotistheplaceto Kovalam like roomfurnishings. training lookingtoescapepeskydistractions ruthlessly austere, perfect formonks-in- revel hushtime. Theroomsare inserious hotmail.com; s/dRs500/600) basic andclean. fondle thecoconuts.Theroomsare typically out where youcanpracticallyreach outand of itwithathatched-roof, top-floor hang- way backhere, andthisplacemakes themost There’s nothingbutswayingpalmsallthe dfromRs400,upstairsaptperweek5000) yahoo.com; views. Whatmore doyouwantatthisprice? get alooandroomwithocean cleansheets, Village Kanyakumari (82km) To Vizhinjam(1km); Green Valley Cottages Green Moon Valley Cottage Padmanabhapuram Pulinkudi (8km); Chowara (8km); 21 Palace (60km); Trivandrum (16km) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION etWsenSaahHldyRsr. B2 Best WesternSwagathHolidayResort.. Alitalia BeachHouse...... Upasana Hospital...... United Books...... Tourist FacilitationCentre...... Top ShopCyberCafe...... Post Office...... (see2) Bookshop...... (see 25) Voyager ...... Bus Stand...... Autorickshaw &TaxiStand...... Suprabhatham...... Spice Village...... German Bakery...... (see25) Garzia SeafoodCorner...... Fusion...... Café SpiceGarden...... Beatles...... Wilson TouristHome...... White House...... (see14) Varmas BeachResort...... Mahal...... Pink Flower...... Orion BeachResort...... Moon ValleyCottage...... Moon LightTouristHome...... Maharaju Palace...... Leela...... Jeevan AyurvedicBeachResort...... Hotel Surya...... Hotel Silverstar...... Hotel Rockholm...... Hotel HolidayHome...... Hotel Greenland...... Hotel BlueSea...... Green ValleyCottages...... Dwaraka Lodge...... Aparna...... (see 12) 0.2miles 300m 0 0 (

% Alsowaybackinthe

( 9847049643; sknairkovalam@ % 2480636; indira_ravi@ D 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 A1 A3 B3 B3 A3 B3 B3 B3 B3 B4 B1 C4 B4 B3 B2 B4 A1 B3 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B2 B3 A3 B1 B2 A2 A1 B2

KERALA ) a 971 2480662; www ) This resort This resort ) Something %

( 2480375; as 2480478; www.calanguete as 2480306; www.rockholm % ( % 2480999; www.orion (

% ( %

2480555; www.hotelbluesea.net; 2480555; www.hotelbluesea.net; ( Overlooking crashing waves Overlooking waves crashing ) % ( ai ) Friendly place with a dash of character and a Beach Resort

Also recommended: Jeevan Ayurvedic Beach Resort Hotel Rockholm Hotel Rockholm Beach ResortVarmas and has slightly better-kept rooms, but with and has slightly better-kept character. less [email protected]; d Rs 1500, with AC Rs 1750; as Nonguests can use the pool for balcony rooms. great few Rs 150. Hotel Blue Sea conies. Throw in some exceptional views and and shazam – we beach access to an isolated a winner! have .jeevanresort.com; d Rs 2100-3500; colour scheme, burnt-orange/blue has a great decent-sized rooms with bathtubs and an al- luring pool that practically plays footsies with the . Orion Moon Light Tourist Home 1850/2000; and near a secluded this place clings to beach, slightly bigger rooms are AC ’80s chic. leftover seats. romantic window and have beach.com; Lighthouse Rd; d Rs 1500, with AC Rs 2500; This is the best-looking place in Kovalam, façade, rooms with wooden with a Kerala-style on the bal- and rattan areas sitting furniture r Rs 1000-2500, with AC Rs 3500; beachresort.com; Rs 700/1500) Your d downstairs/upstairs rupees pay for the balconies with awesome seaviews, but much left not there’s than over for anything more rudimentary rooms. rooms inside circular, three-storey great towers different: with polished floors and round verandas. .com; Lighthouse Rd; s/d Rs 1350/1500, with AC Rs 1350/1500, with AC Rs .com; Lighthouse Rd; s/d Rs Immedi- SOUTHERN KERALA •• Kovalam which is worn at formal occasions like weddings. Men will fold will fold Men at formal occasions like which is worn weddings. ) Wilson has large Wilson has large /dhoti. Try it out – there’s nothing like having a cool breeze running running nothing like a cool breeze having /dhoti. Try it out – there’s mundu, 9847363831; d Rs 500-900, Fresh from a round from a round Fresh 2485320; www.maharajupal as vesthi in half while working in half while though (ie most of the time), or during hot weather % / (

2486442; hotelgreenlandin@yahoo % 2482983; www.silverstar-kovalam (

3091963; whitehousekovalam@walla %

( in Kerala), which is a white, open rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the of cloth wrapped around the piece open rectangular in Kerala), which is a white, The humungous refurbished The humungous refurbished % mundu mundu ( %

( More of a quiet retreat than than a quiet retreat of More 2480950; s/d Rs 1250/1500) vesthi Next door to Hotel Surya, this is a Next door to Hotel % (

Now before you think you’re an expert think you’re you on the subject,get this confused with the dhoti don’t Now before The lungi is traditionally a colourful lungi to form a tube, and sewn together The often piece of fabric, waist and worn throughout India on official occasions. It is generally acceptable for foreigners to to It is generally acceptable for foreigners India on official occasions. waist and worn throughout wear a lungi/ Keralabetween your legs on a scorching day. their lungi or their lungi this is never done in formal situations. Interestingly, Muslim men wear their lungi tucked to the tucked to the men wear their lungi Muslim Interestingly, done in formal situations. this is never left, while Hindus wear theirs to the right. and Christians (called a knotted around the waist. It comes in many colours and is worn mostly as casual dress. If the If the worn mostly as casual dress. in many colours and is the waist. It comes around knotted it’s called is white, lungi LUNGI OR DHOTI? DHOTI? OR LUNGI or a kilt, a lungi. all wearing, it’s called No, it’s not a dress, in Kerala or a frock the men are a common sight men sporting designs, are lungis different in and patterned Made from cotton and Myanmar. as well as in Bangladesh in southern India, Aparna Maharaju Palace Hotel Greenland White House Wilson Tourist Home ately behind Hotel Rockholm, behind Hotel this is similar ately out the front. artsy touches and have a large shared bal- shared a large and have artsy touches cony sporting comfortable lounging chairs. secluded little garden a charming, There’s character than anything else in its class. The than anything else in its class. The character with decorated are medium-sized rooms few ace.in; d Rs 1100) a palace, this boutiquey place has far more food on request. light and small kitchenettes for self-catering.light and small kitchenettes that cooks up yummy friendly place It’s a very .com; s/d Rs 600/800) rooms in this multilevel complex sport natural terrace. quito nets are provided and there’s a roof a roof and there’s provided quito nets are here have enough space to swing at least two enough space to swing at least two have here the setcats. The hotel’s back in the heart of means it’s quiet, but the large which village, a view. Mos- of much balconies don’t have .com; d incl breakfast Rs 600-800) .com; d incl breakfast the spick-and-span rooms renovations, of MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Hotel Silverstar clone offering ‘same-sameclone offering but different’. .com; d Rs 600) swing chairs on the balconies and Keralan balconies and Keralan on the swing chairs rooms aren’t The cheaper darkwood touches. home about. to write much with AC Rs 1300 incl breakfast; courtyard rooms set a garden, with around Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book KERALA www.swagathresorts.com; rRs1400-3600,withAC1800- www.swagathresorts.com; decked coloured outin brightly cushions, Kovalam food suspects, what sets Beatles Kovalam Beatles foodsuspects, what sets to boot. views continues upstairs withawesomesea corner.vines drippingfrom every Thejungle apart isthefunkygnarledwooddécor, with wrapped inabananaleafandgrilled, Rs130). like itsfishseafood, someexcellentKeralan itdoes Nevertheless, dishesmakenese theircameoappearances. Keralan’, therequisite though andChi- pasta ‘traditional pond oasis,thisplacecallsitself option. reasonable term visitors rate this lime-green placeasa orchestra of crickets. option todineunderthestars toanightly and intimate, outinthepalmgroves withan truly authenticKeralan cooking. It’ssecluded ian placedishes upexcellent,dirt-cheap and open fromaround7.30amtomidnight. ambience takes are yourfancy.Restaurant indistinguishable, so it’s more about which you wantitprepared. Menus andprices are 150, tiger prawnsover Rs400)anddecidehow aroundRs onaprice (perserve a fish, settle playing thecatch of –justpick thedaynightly Open-air restaurants linethebeach area dis- Eating Keralan artwork. tuously decorated withcolourfultextiles and the price. Roomsaren’t huge, butare sump- tre, gymandalltheluxuryyou’dexpectfor cen- (three!) swimmingpools,anAyurvedic north of Hawah There are Beach. three around extensive groundsontheheadland 9000; www.theleela.com; s/dfromUS$295/320,steRs complete withwhite picket fence. diculously charming gardenvilla(Rs2000), ground andkiddiepool,there isoneri- The placeiskid-friendly, withasmallplay- ofbut withawhiff thechain hotel aboutthem. palms. Theroomsare bigandwellfurnished, fairytale-perfect gardenoverlooking coconut 4000, steRs6000; SwagathHolidayResort Best Western TOP END 972 Café SpiceGarden Café Beatles Corner Seafood Garzia Suprabhatham Leela Spice Village as OTENKRL • Kvlm SOUTHERN KERALA••Kovalam

(previously

(mains Rs60-180) ) Thishotel isglamorouslylocated

asi (dishes Rs50-220)

(meals Rs45-75) Kovalam Beach Resort; Kovalam BeachResort;

pollichathu (mains Rs60-300)

) (mains Rs50-200) Set inacultivated, Set Offering theusual Offering Aromanticlily- Thisvegetar- (marinated fish (marinated fish Modishly

( % % 2481148; 2480101; Long- the ground, but beer isavailablethe ground,butbeer inmostof the some restaurants. Dedicated bars are thinon on thebeach –lookoutforsigns. music anddanceare sometimesperformed weekends culturalprogrammesinvolving 5pm, theperformancearound6.30pm.On The intricate make-up ataround processstarts from theTouristFacilitation ( Centre p969 ). where –inquire aboutlocationsandtimes of Kathakali some- isperformedmostnights ashortened version season, During thehigh Entertainment combinations. choices collidingtoformyummynewtaste fusion dishes have Indianandcontinental toget alongpretty seem they even well.Its inventive West–and menuwhere meets East au laitandacigarette (Rs60). version of theFrench breakfast: café croissant, pizza(Rs140).Welove100) andseafood its of maincourses, includingstir-fried tofu (Rs fresh pastries,quiches anda variedselection a winningrange of breakfasts, strongcoffee, lar breakfast hang-out, gets particularlygoodreports. dangerously longlistof Theseafood cocktails. there’s awide-rangingmenuthatincludes els beaches isonyour own wheels. costRs313. Beach Lighthouse Prepaid from Trivandrumairportto taxis around Rs100,dependingonthe season. isRs 250. Autorickshaws shouldbe Beach Trivandrum andKovalam between A taxi TAXI &AUTORICKSHAW 2½ hours) andAlleppey(Rs92,four hours). (for Varkala, Rs38,1½hours), Kollam(Rs47, (Rs 125,5½hours), stoppingatKallambalam Ernakulum leave at6am,6.30amand2.30pm resort. to Buses from theentrancetoLeela and 9.30pm(Rs8,30minutes); catch them 5.30am 20minutesTrivandrum every between There Kovalam are between localbuses and BUS Getting There&Away track of reggae, trance and classic rock. (Rs80to100)anendless sound- cocktails restaurants (aroundRs80)andsomeserve

German Bakery German A great waytoget around toremote Western videosare in shown twiceanight Fusion ( % 2485217)

(mains Rs90-200) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com rents outscooters/Enfields for (mains Rs80-160)

Thisfunkypadhasan

this rooftop bakery has The most Voyager Trav-

popu- KERALA )

9am- 973 h as 2480413; www.surya

% ( is considered the best example of of the best example is considered (admission Rs 10, camera/video Rs 25/1200; (admission Rs 10, camera/video Rs

0470 / pop 42,273 Padmanabhapuram is around 60km south- is around Padmanabhapuram The largest wooden palace complex in , wooden palace complex in Asia, The largest Surya Samudra Beach GardenSurya Samudra gasping for air. With a strand of golden beach golden beach With a strand of gasping for air. Mar- Bob nuzzling the cliff and more edge, a dreadlocked ley music that you can poke faithfully remains at, the vibe here backpacker by protected are beaches Varkala’s laid-back. soaring bluffs, while all the on-land action is but beautifully, along precariously, perched the English-speaking guides that hang around (around Rs 50 is worthwhile inside the gate to 100). CatchKo- a local bus from Kovalam. east of and valam (or Trivandrum) to Kanyakumari it’s a short off at Thuckalay, from where get walk. Alter- autorickshaw ride or 15-minute by organised the tours one of take natively, a taxi (about ), or hire p966 the KTDC (see Rs 1000 return). VARKALA might just Varkala % sensational cliffs of The holding back the kind of grace, be its saving development that has left nearby Kovalam With several large lumberyards worth of lumberyards worth of With several large carved beams, this ceilings and polished-teak palace 5pm Tue-Sun) 14 of into the magnificent conglomeration palaces it is today. Travan- of it was once the seat the rulers of Tamil taking a princely state in parts of core, constructed Fetchingly Nadu as well as Kerala. interiors the exquisite and granite, teak of include rosewood carved ceilings in floral pat- and floors Chinese-influencedterns, screens, polish. Gettingfinished to a high-black one of It offers a variety of cottages, from rainbow- from cottages, of a variety It offers a hillside, down half-ovalspainted, scattered huts. cool Kerala-style to spacious, €120-350; r incl breakfast Pulinkudi; samudra.com; six types of has small resort This luscious, from constructed are which many of cottages, houses, with Keralan traditional transplanted spectacular carved bath- ceilings and open-air an infinity beaches, private are rooms. There pool and Ayurvedic – all on 21 treatments grounds. wonderfully cultivated of acres PALACE PADMANABHAPURAM traditional Keralan architecture today. Parts today. Parts architecture Keralan traditional to 1550, though back the egos of it date as of mark, it expanded left their rulers successive

) For i 2480870; %

( 2480453; www.thapo 2267554; www.bethsaida % ( 2480042; s/d Rs 600/1000) % ( %

(

This new hotel has made This new hotel ) This is the way to live the This is the way to live A resort with a difference: with a difference: A resort 2481245; www.hotelpujamahal.com; •• Around Kovalam SOUTHERN KERALA % ( as

Bethsaida Hermitage Puja Mahal Alitalia Beach House

Thapovan Heritage Home Dr Franklin’s Panchakarma Institute hammocks, palms galore and shade in spades. and shade hammocks, palms galore it’s also a luxurious beachside escape, with it’s also a luxurious beachside slung gardens, seductively rolling, sculpted -c.org; Pulinkudi; r €55-80) Pulinkudi; -c.org; that helps organisation this is a charitable a bonus, As support a nearby orphanage. nearest beach. nearest from one-hour massages to 28-day treatment to 28-day treatment from one-hour massages from the kilometres marathons. It’s a few a hillside and overlook acres of swaying palm of acres a hillside and overlook Ayurvedic range available treatments groves. with handcrafted furniture. It’s set among furniture. with handcrafted that roll down grounds manicured perfectly simple life (no pool, AC, TV) AC, (no pool, in the complete simple life filled cottages teak Keralan gorgeous luxury of van.com; s/d Rs 3000/3850) available). Options include packages for spine for packages Options include available). problems and slimming, as well as general relief. and stress rejuvenation Accommodation is clean and comfortable but style (though rooms are sea-view not resort some flashier resorts. Daily treatment costs Daily treatment some flashier resorts. €35, with a full meal plan an additional €16. those serious Ayurvedic about this treatment, to alternative and less expensive is a reputable www.dr-franklin.com; Chowara; s €15-50, d €20-65; beaches. beaches. Around 8km south of Kovalam are some some are Kovalam south of Pulinkudi & Chowara 8km Around crowded to Kovalam’s luxury alternatives some rather curious interior-design decisions – decisions some rather curious interior-design The rooms jungle scenes anyone? concrete, comfortable, but the star perfectly attrac- are pool. the refreshing tion remains s/d Rs 2000/2500; rooftop seatingrooftop and windows on six sides – ocean breeze. for that fresh perfect furniture, poster beds with mosquito nets, mosquito nets, beds with poster furniture,

by road, has a couple of resorts jostling for jostling for resorts a couple of by road, has Although local villages. space with is and rough the steep peaceful, beach more not as good for swimming. Samudra Beach Samudra Beach Beach, Kovalam of about 4km north Samudra around Rs 450/550 per day – though Rs 450/550 around open- its can be unpredictable. ing hours AROUND KOVALAM lonelyplanet.com The unique, octagonal rooms here have neat have The unique, octagonal rooms here KERALA rents; experiencedswimmers even have been The beaches atVarkala have very strong cur- Dangers &Annoyances Post office Police aidpost cash advances,andishelpfulforbustraintimes. h deChange Bureau often aspowercutsare notuncommon. (around Rs40perhour)–save youremails plenty of slowinternet placesalongtheclifftop of IndiaATM inVarkala townandthere are about 2kmfromthebeach. There’s Bank aState are Thetownandthetrainstation north cliff. cutintothe steep stairways Rd, orbyseveral fromeitherBeach The mainbeach isaccessed Orientation &Information onthehouse). sunsets dramatic, cliffside options andsomeexcellentdiningspots(with withtonnesof weeks, the days,even sleeping year, butit’sstillagreat placetowhileaway number of newhotels iscreeping upeach the crumblingprecipice above. Sure, the 974 Junction. Junction. 1 3 2 VARKALA 9am-7pm) Cashestravellerscheques,doescredit-card OTENKRL • Vraa SOUTHERN KERALA•• Black L akshdwep ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ( h AC S ea ( 10am-2pm Mon-Sat) North ofTemple10am-2pm Mon-Sat)North 20 32 h 17 25 21 13 ( Nov-Feb) Atthehelipad. % 9 26 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Olympia House...... Janardhana Temple...... Dr Sathyanandhan...... Dayana...... Dayana...... Post Office...... Bureau deChange...... oieAdPs NvFb.....B2 Police AidPost(Nov-Feb)...... 15 2606623; Temple Junction; 29 18 12

Papanasham Cliffs

Beach 6 28 27 23 Spring B 33 8 10 Jacaranda 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To Villa (200m) 19 2 B2 D3 B2 B3 C3 D3 D3 16 Helipad Temple SLEEPING e ree...... A1 Sea Breeze...... Sea PearlChalets...... Santa ClausVillage...... Rubybleu House...... Parvathy Bhavan...... New Heaven...... MK Gardens...... Kerala BambooHouse...... Holiday Inn...... Hill Palace...... Green Palace...... Eden Garden...... Deshadan...... Clafouti House...... 30 5 22 into thetemple groundswhere there is ahuge tonon-Hindus,butyoumaybeinvited closed sitshoveringspectacle above Rd.It’s Beach ple Varkala isatemple town,and Sights &Activities treated byafemale practitioner. (see ised opposite ). Womenshouldalwaysbe recommendations before yougoget herbal- qualified practitioners –it’sbesttoaskfor toilets.Mostpeoplearen’t Ayurvedic even tea and treatments, tomassage, toAyurvedic from producttosell, an Ayurvedic-related especially ifyou’re goingintoVarkala town. we were there. Itstillpaystodress sensitively, incidentswhen bay, there noserious had been keep malestarers a-walkin’andthehawkers at withpolicepatrollingbeachesHowever, to cover thebikini-cladattractionsatVarkala. best placetoswim. theflagsorasklifeguardsbetween forthe beaches inKerala, sobecareful andswim swept away.Thisisoneof themostdangerous It seems like manandhisdog every It seems has Indian malegawkers are todis- starting

Beach Rd –itstechnicolour isthemainevent Hindu 11 To Kollam (24km) 24 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 B3 A1 B2 B2 A1 B2 A2 D3 A2 B2 C3 B2 A2 4 0.1miles 100m 0 0 Autorickshaw Stand...... Autorickshaw Stand...... Trattoria...... Sathram...... Restaurant...... Kerala CoffeeHouse...... Juice Shack...... Caffe Italiano...... Amantha...... Taj GardenRetreat...... Silver Estate...... TRANSPORT EATING Oottupura Vegetarian B2 Johnny CoolCafé...... Devaswom Building 14 Approximate Scale 7 Tank Hotel Suprabhatham(2km) lonelyplanet.com Janardhana Tem- To VarkalaTown(2km); 1 3 D Sivagiri Mutt(3km); Train Station(2km); Trivandrum (42km) Junction Temple 34 31 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 34 33 D3 B2 A1 D3 B2 B2 B2 A2 A2 C3 B2 KERALA

975 vata by Dr Robert E (knowledge); it is (knowledge); it is This gem of a guest- of This gem veda 9995040495; www.rubybleuhouse % ( (water/earth). Known together (water/earth). Known together (life) and (life) ayu kapha may lead to fever, inflammation and inflammation and may lead to fever, Boogie boards can be rented from places from be rented boards can Boogie The commission racket is alive and well – is alive The commission racket pitta 6000-CD music collection and an eclectic 6000-CD music collection and an eclectic Buddhist/rock-and-roll library. Long-term- this place. love ers flow of demand – expect astronomical prices demand – expect astronomical flow of and bargains around the Christmas holidays in the off season. you to the takes rickshaw that your sure make for. asked place you’ve BUDGET Rubybleu House .com; dm Rs 75, s/d Rs 200/300) bling house deep among the palm groves. plants a small jungle/garden with rare There’s from around the world and the friendly hippy informative by the very vibe is administered Leon a quali- (who’s and his partner Katalin an awesome instructor). They have fied reiki along the beach for Rs 100, but be wary of be wary of Rs 100, but for the beach along & Annoy- (see Dangers currents strong very ances, ). opposite Sleeping cliff; along the north to stayMost places are only for the tourist onslaughtsome open in either in- are places The quieter November. the cliff; end of land or at the far northern guesthousesalthough is in- the number of are Prices given too. here, exorably increasing to March) high-season (November average wildly with the ebb and fluctuate which rates, house has basic, colourful rooms in a ram- Ayurveda: Life, Health & Longevity Life, Health Ayurveda: (fire); and (fire);

, Dr pitta is Eden is the Dayana 3291783) , a popular •• Varkala SOUTHERN KERALA % (

(wind or air); (internal purification) and massage. The herbs used for both grow in herbs used for both grow in The purification) and massage. (internal vata , who has been playing 2602807; www.sivagiri.org) deficiency or excess in any of them can result in disease – an excess of in disease – an deficiency or excess in any of them can result 2602950; [email protected]) Olympia House is essential for hydration. panchakarma % % ( (humours):

( 9895473304) Kapha , which has a shack on the beach beach on the has a shack , which 2603910; www.eden-garden.net) tridoshas, % doshas (

% (

Ayurveda sees the world as having an intrinsic order and balance. It argues that we possess possess that we It argues Ayurveda intrinsic order and balance. sees the world as having an Having an occasional Ayurvedic massage, something offered at all over Kerala, Kerala, at tourist resorts all over Having an occasional Ayurvedic massage, something offered pick up a copy of If you want to learn more, Ayurvedic treatment aims to restore the balance, and hence good health, principally through good health, principally through the balance, and hence aims to restore Ayurvedic treatment 2609464; manicure & pedicure Rs 250, facials Rs 400-1000; Rs & pedicure 2609464; manicure 9am-7pm) Venu With its roots in Sanskrit, the word Ayurveda from is derived With its roots in Sanskrit, the word AYURVEDA AYURVEDA Svoboda, or check out www.ayur.com. the knowledge or science of life. Principles of Ayurvedic medicine were first documented in the in the first documented of Ayurvedic Principles medicine were the knowledge or science of life. been practised centuries earlier. have ago, but it may even some 2000 years three is relaxing, but you have to go in for the long haul to reap any real benefits – usually 15 days benefits – usually 15 days any real to go in for the long haul to reap but you have is relaxing, Ayurvedic Expect followed by an appropriate a thorough examination diet, exercises or longer. massages. as well as regular and a range of treatments, two methods: village has its own Ayurvedic and every pharmacy. abundance in Kerala’s moist climate, may result in dizziness and debility; an increase in in dizziness and debility; an increase may result infection. as the Sivagiri Mutt For tabla contact (traditional drum) lessons Practically everyone offers Ayurveda, Practically everyone offers

% Mr between Rs 500 and Rs 900. Sathyanandhan cost near Seaview. treatments Single massage packages; see p976 for accommodation details. p976 seepackages; good things to say about also have Readers reputation. His wife sees clients. His wife female reputation. Garden and single treatments Ayurvedic offers resort, a qualified massage instructor, in both Ay- instructor, a qualified massage urveda has an excellent and and other schools, ( h noyances, opposite ). A recommended place ). A recommended opposite noyances, for Ayurvedic is treatments beauty and philosophy here, it’s possible to stay it’s possible to stay and philosophy here, (rooms Rs 200 to 250). prominent guru. This is a popular pilgrimage This is a popular pilgrimage prominent guru. is happy to talk and the swami site visitors. to serious studying meditation about If you’re banyan tree and shrines to , Hanu- to Ayyappan, and shrines tree banyan . other Hindu man and Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book yoga or massage (see & An- Dangers also and a shop on Beachand a shop Rd (women only). Mr Omanakuttan at and teaching for 15 years and will come to and will come to for 15 years and teaching for banging instructions (Rs your residence 250 to 300 per hour). headquarters of the Sree Narayana Dharma the Sree of headquarters Sanghom Trust, the ashram devoted to Sree most (1855–1928), Kerala’s KERALA name isonlyfunnyonceayear,this placeis orderly and well-decorated double rooms set orderly andwell-decorated doubleroomsset lent paddyfields,thisplacehasafew small, nondescript anddon’treally follow through Palace’s rooms, whilebigandorderly, are s/d fromRs1000/1200, withACRs2400/3000; facing outtosea. deluxe rooms come withhuge baywindows niture andlotsof teak-wood flair. Thetwo Keralan-themed buildings,nicebitsof fur- surprisingly welldesigned,withtraditional AC Rs2000/2200; sRs900-1700,d1400-1900,s/dwith clausvillageresort.com; inmosquitorepellentself bynight. resort (see above tolatheryour-). You’ll need ebos onstiltsover thepoolsandanAyurvedic around alush lilypond.There are dininggaz- 800-1200) Eden Garden MIDRANGE Holiday Inn Bhavan Parvathy pavilion. intheKeralan-styledshows andyogaclasses are (Rs500),there runnightly are culture wood andpainted bamboo. Cookingclasses style hutswithhandsomeinteriors of antique derful placehasdozensof pretty, Balinese- upmarket bamboo-hutexperience,thiswon- hutsRs700-800) .keralabamboohouse.com; tidy andhave big,bluebathrooms. andgreat top-floorBeach views.Rooms are NewHeavencliffs, haseasyaccesstoBlack hoo.com; rRs500-700) together tospell‘goodbudget value’. but enormous,withpalm-topviewsthatcome Varkala’s ‘Vegas strip,’theroomsare plain .com; rRs250-300) from here season. duringthehigh blissfully quiet.There’s achild-care centre run fromthebeachand isbackfarenough tobe basic roomswithhammocksoutthefront, Ithastypically for thefriendlinessof itsstaff. .com; s/dRs250/300) 976 the ultra-budgetbrigade. elementary homestaywithbare, tiledroomspopularwith tank with–waitforitholywaterstraightfromthetap! Green PalaceGreen Santa ClausVillage BambooHouse Kerala New Heaven MK Gardens Estate Silver Also recommended: OTENKRL • Vraa SOUTHERN KERALA••Varkala Delightfully situated Delightfully overlooking si- (rRs300-400)Clean,plainroomsnearthe

( % as

( ( ( % %

Inamassive welloff house % Silver Estate gets rave reviews ( ( 2603910; www.eden-garden.net; dRs 2603910; www.eden-garden.net; % Justbackfromthenorthern % 2156338; newheavenbeachresort@ya 9387755309; mohdrafi20@rediffmail 2603298; mkgarden_2005@yahoo ) 2602596; dRs300-400)An Even thecheesy though 2610055; [email protected];

( % 9249121464; www.santa ( % 9895270993; www For a slightly For aslightly a ) The the southern cliffs of Varkala,the southerncliffs small but these 3300-4400) Jacaranda Villa TOP END with roomsdecoratedinthemesfromregions ofIndia. breakfast Rs3000; Deshadan balconies facingtheocean. 800) Chintzybutalwayscleanandfreshly painted,with Palace Hill Clafouti House coconut grove. ers have theirrestaurant underabeachside adulation.Thefriendlyown- sunset nightly views andshare alarge veranda –perfect for rooms inthisheftybuildingalloffer great sea r Rs1500,withAC2500; out before theytumbleintotheocean. able views.They’re definitely worthchecking charismatic concrete wigwamsboastunbeat- hotmail.com; dRs1250) coloured fairylights. byabrashrunwayofilluminated atnight edge, a trimlawnleadingdowntothecliff ofon thefaçade’spromises luxury.There’s spectable rangespectable of dishes, including breakfast options, this great budget restaurant hasare- 30) your mood. saunter tillyoufindaplacethatsuits cliff-side fare. Varkala It’sbesttojoininthenightly mixofthe same Indian,Asian andWestern and offer7.30am tomidnight pretty much inVarkalaRestaurants are openfromaround Eating allround,then! get thepool.Cocktails touse popular–particularlysinceyou is deservedly Sunday lunch (12.30pmto3pm;Rs400) buffet centre, barandhealthclub.The an Ayurvedic datedopulent butslightly resort hasbigrooms, r US$120-145; roomisreally impressive.the roof-terrace period touches. Frontroomshave views; sea decorated withachic blendof modernand beautiful roomswithbalconies,individually this romanticretreat huge, bright, hasseveral rooms straightoutofthe‘80s. double 700-900) Intimate,homeyatmosphere, withbright Bucking the trend and serving onlyveggie Buckingthetrend andserving Sea Pearl Chalets Sea Oottupura Vegetarian Restaurant Oottupura Vegetarian Also recommended: Breeze Sea Taj Retreat Garden ( The ultimate inunderstated luxury, % ( % ais Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( 3204242; www.deshadan.com;rincl ( ( % sa % 2610142; www.hillpalace.com; dRs % 2603257; www.seabreezevarkala.com; 2603257; www.seabreezevarkala.com; 2610296; www.villa-jacaranda.biz; dRs 2601414; www.clafouti.com;dRs Precariously danglingoff

( a ( % ) Inanotable,burnt-red complex % ) Luxury,’80s-style:this ) Thelarge andorderly 2603000; www.tajhotels.com; 2605875; seapearlvarkala@

(mains fromRs KERALA is is 977 9.30am- h 2745625; 8.30am-7pm) Very helpful; 8.30am-7pm) Very % ( h 2751240; Tourist Bungalow Rd; 2766566; per hr Rs 15; 2746607) % ( Shrine of Our Lady of Velankanni % % ( ( 0474 / pop 379,975 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) [email protected]; bus stand. near the KSRTC 9.30pm) The fastest of the numerous internet cafés at the Complex. Exchange UAE Sights The lively to a patron saint from neighbouring dedicated many places in the aren’t Nadu. There Tamil town’s shady streets and antediluvian market market and antediluvian town’s shady streets worth a wander, and the calm waterways are still Lake are Ashtamudi the surrounding of with coconut palms, cashew planta- fringed tions and traditional villages. Information around town. ATMs a couple of are There Cyber Zone DTPC information centre Post office An autorickshaw betweenAn autorickshaw the train station and is Rs 30 to 40, a taxi Rs 60. about the beach will try to shoehorn Beware that many drivers them the highest that pays you into the hotel off best to be dropped commission – it’s often and walk to your chosen hotel. at the Helipad the cliff-top places along Many Enfields/ rent day. for Rs 350/250 per scooters KOLLAM (QUILON) town and the is a tranquil trading % Kollam back- to Kerala’s southern approach secret the oldest ports in the Arabian One of waters. Sea, hub that commerce it was once a major saw Chinese Portu- Roman, Arab, and later jostle ships guese, and British traders Dutch their hands on spices to get into port, eager valuable cashew crops. The and the region’s Kollam (Rs 20/142, 35 minutes), and three a a and three 35 minutes), (Rs 20/142, Kollam It’s two hours). 38/155, Alleppey (Rs day to morning Kollam in time for the to easy to get to Alleppey (see boat backwater boxed the Junction, four daily ). From Temple p982 text, buses 36, 1½ Trivandrum (Rs go to/from bus goes to Kollam express and one hours) slower (Rs 34, one hour). Many at 11.15am buses to Kollam, or alternatively also head a bus or autorickshaw to the you can catch frequent highway junction 7km away for more buses rumbling north. express Getting Around h

7am- h Run by dread- This friendly and ef-

(breakfast/mains around Rs 50/100) around (breakfast/mains

(meals Rs 60-150) SOUTHERN KERALA •• Kollam (Quilon) Café (juices Rs 30-100; Rs 50, snacks

(meals Rs 40-200) Leafy, vine-side (meals Rs 40-200) Leafy, dining. (meals Rs 70-150)

(thalis Rs 30, meals Rs 50-100) A tiny, barely (thalis Rs 30, meals Rs 50-100) A tiny, barely (Temple Junction; meals Rs 20-30) Eat with the A funky little health-juice bar that bar that health-juice A funky little (wheat and coconut flour with milk, flour with and coconut (wheat

Also recommended:

Trattoria Johnny Cool Kerala Coffee House Juice Shack standing family-run hut. autorickshaw drivers at this no-frills Keralan diner. class/AC chair Rs 24/142, 45 minutes) and Rs 24/142, 45 minutes) chair class/AC Getting There & Away Getting There & Away trains to Trivandrum (2nd frequent are There December and January; look out for signs look out for signs December and January; and times. location advertising Entertainment Entertainment during organised performances are Kathakali with a watchful eye for patrolling police. with a watchful aren’t licensed, most will servearen’t beer (around and teapot Rs 70), sometimes in a discreet Although most of the places along the cliffAlthough most of request. Drinking about certain Varkalan households that pre- about certain Varkalan meals on outstanding home-cooked pare Culinary adventurers should ask around town Culinary adventurers Caffe Italiano Amantha Sathram ficient Tibetan-managed place does some of place does some of ficient Tibetan-managed Western well-prepared the most consistently food in town (lasagne in particular, Rs 80 to the of from the other directions 105). Meals ain’t bad either. compass if has to run down to the market to has to run down to the market if Manu It’s always worth the wait, grab ingredients. no set just turn up menu so however; there’s and ask what’s going. Western and Indian food – but be warned, it Western a while a while to come out. Quite may take locked hipster Manu, this place serves Manu, hipster superb locked particularly tasty all served pizzas (Rs 70 to 90), soundtrack. to a dancy, reggae the last coconut-related injury at time of writ- at time of injury the last coconut-related ing). It serves cocktails (around Rs 70) and has perennially popular hang-out has tableclothed popular hang-out perennially palms (221 days sincedining under the swaying latest news the old way. news the latest and top service, atmosphere of With oodles this long-termers come to gossip and share the to gossip and share come long-termers 7.30pm) puttu Rs 35). and honey, bananas lonelyplanet.com doubles as Varkala’s own intranet, where own intranet, where Varkala’s doubles as KERALA lam annually,whilethe impressive, and100%gore-free. tree sproutingfromawelloutthebackis butthe100-year-oldnot foreveryone, banyan ing photographs of violent-crimevictims.It’s dusty muskets, andamacabre roomdisplay- has arandomcollectionof old uniforms, south of town,aRs20rickshaw rideaway. there early inthemorning.Thebeach is2km tificate onthevalueof thecatch of theday–get here, where customers andfisherfolk alike pon- colour theshoreline. There’s arowdy men mendnetsanddozens of fishing boats esque Keralan fishing hamlets,where fisher- treatments). for Ayurvedic are drapedinmysterious herbs(manyused goods deftlyontheirheadsandshop fronts sit atopbagsof powders, bright porters for hundreds of years. Here, spicemerchants Bazaar ance. On thenextstreet south,the raphy worshipped withsuch Hinduexuber- Christianiconog- sari-clad world youcansee 978 1 3 2 KOLLAM (QUILON) At The The OTENKRL • Kla Qio) SOUTHERN KERALA••Kollam(Quilon) TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION KSRTC BusStand...... Jetty...... Autorickshaw Stand...... (see 5) Vijayalaxmi CashewCo...... Supreme Bakers...... (see15) Sree SuprabathamRestaurant...... C2 Kedar Restaurant...... (see11) Indian CoffeeHouse...... Fayalwan Hotel...... All Spice...... Lekshmi TouristHome...... KTDC YatriNivas...... Kodiylil Residency...... Hotel Sudarsan...... Hotel ShahInternational...... Government GuestHouse...... Shrine ofOurLadyVelankanni...... Police Museum...... Mukkada Bazaar...... UAE Exchange...... (see10) Post Office...... Internet Cafés...... (see1) ICICI ATM...... Federal BankATM...... DTPC InformationCentre...... Cyber Zone...... has been acommercialhubofhas been activity Pooram Police Museum AC

festival Ashtamudi Lake you canstrollpastpictur-

(admission Rs3; (April)isheldinKol- Ashtamudi Craft and Craft Ashtamudi 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B2 C2 C3 C3 C2 C3 B1 C3 C2 C2 B1 C2 D3 C3 C2 C2 C2 B2 C2 h Alleppey (87km) Kayamkulam (30km); Palace Museum(28km); To Krishnapuram (5km) Thangasseri To B Vegetable 9am-6pm) Mukkada Mukkada 20 Market Fruit &

To ValiyavilaFamily Estate (1.5km); Mosque Jetty Rd Jetty 9 2 21 13

Hospital Rd Hospital

14 Centre (3.5km) Panchakarma To Janakanthi 8 garden tour. bird-watching andperhapsaquickspice- fibre), prawnandfishfarming,dosome -making tapping, (palm beer) (coconut tuvallam life inthisisolated village area, andsee daily knowledgeable guides)youcanobserve excellentexcursions (withDTPC. Onthese across Ashtamudi are Lake organised bythe thecanalsof Islandandthrough Munroe tours Canoe-boat Tours in KollamshouldcostaroundRs300. bath (Rs500).Areturn boattripfromthejetty for arejuvenation massage andherbalsteam from aroundRs15,000).Youcanalsojustvisit treatment packages packages (seven-day start to21-day from Kollam,popularforitsseven- 500/750) s/dRs400/500,withAC dyasala Nagar,AsramanNorth; Centre Panchakarma Janakanthi Activities years. festival Art Temple Maheshwara Sri Uma 16 11

Main Rd

3 Alappuzha Rd Alappuzha Maidan Asraman 1 is a lakeside Ayurvedic resort,is alakeside 5km Ayurvedic Kollam 17 (ricebarge) construction,toddy (December/January) two every

Mosque 5 Tourist Bungalow Rd Bungalow Tourist 12 6 4 15 19

(per personRs300; 18

10 Beach (2km) To Kollam Canal

0.5miles 800m 0 0 Chinnakkada Rd Chinnakkada

QS Rd Approximate Tower Clock

Beach Rd Scale Station Train 7 lonelyplanet.com

( % h D Trivandrum (72km) To Varkala(35km); 2763014; Vai- 9am &2pm) To Ernakulam (159km) ket-

KERALA

979 lunch & h

This is a real a real This is 9.30am-8pm) A (Chinnakkada Rd; 9am-8pm) Selec-

h h (Main Rd; (Alappuzha Rd; mains Rs 35-130)

(Main Rd) Reliable for a decent (Musaliar Bldgs;

(Mainmeals Rs 10-40) Rd; This veg restaurant is popular is popular restaurant This veg (Musaliar30-110; Bldgs; mains Rs

Desperate for a Western fast-food fix? fast-food for a Western Desperate Also recommended: All Spice Kedar Restaurant Sree Suprabatham Restaurant tion of Indian and Western cakes and sweets. major exporter famous cashews; quality nuts of Kollam’s around Rs 250 per 500g. are TRAIN TRAIN trains to Ernakulam (2nd frequent are There 12 daily) 3½ hours, Rs 46/177, chair class/AC nine and Trivandrum (Rs 31/167, 1¼ hours, daily), as well as four daily trains to Alleppey (Rs 33/142, 1½ hours). Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BOAT , for information on p982 text, See the boxed public ferry are cruises to Alleppey. There services Lake to Gu- across Ashtamudi hanandapuram (one hour) and Perumon are from the jetty. Fares leaving (two hours), around Rs 10 return. BUS on the well-servicedKollam is situated Trivandrum–Kollam–Alleppey–Ernakulam (sic) with superfast/superexpress bus route, buses to Trivan- going every 10 or 20 minutes Alleppey (Rs 52, two drum (Rs 42, 1½ hours), Buses (Rs 84, 3½ hours). and Kochi hours) Stand. Bus depart from the KSRTC dogs (Rs 35) and excellent tandooridogs (Rs 35) and excellent can items desserts – all be followed up with ice-cream served shiny cafeteria- in a disconcertingly style atmosphere. doesSudarsan at Hotel good The restaurant Indian food; the tangy fish curry (Rs 60) is the the bunch. pick of Supreme Bakers Indian Coffee House Vijayalaxmi Cashew Co Eating Eating Hotel Fayalwan to the diner, packed Indian working-man’s concrete are There come lunchtime. rafters and tuck- for sitting long benches and booths its mutton biryani (Rs 40). ing in – try meals Rs 20-30) a remarkable and there’s with local families especially dosas dishes, breakfast of spread (from Rs 15). breakfast and strong coffee. breakfast Burgers (Rs 29 to 55), pizza (Rs 50 to 90), hot (Rs 29 to 55), Burgers dinner) )

a

(d Rs ) With a a Kollam (Quilon) KERALA •• SOUTHERN homestays 9847132449; www 2743620; d without/ 2742362; Tourist Bun- This new hotel This new hotel ) The pick of Ko- The pick of % 2741067; Main Rd; s/d Rs % ) ( ( %

a (

% 9847913832; Main Rd; s/d Rs a (

2744322; Alappuzha Rd; www % ( Wafting in the remnants Wafting in the remnants

2745538; s Rs 275-330, d Rs 330-500) % ) (

% a (

in and around Kollam. in and around This primitive pilgrims’ lodge may have have may pilgrims’ lodge This primitive

Hotel Shah International Government House Guest

Valiyavila Family Estate Family Hotel Sudarsan Kodiylil Residency Lekshmi Tourist Home Kovalam (Rs 3). Kovalam catch one of the nine daily public from the nine daily public ferries one of catch extraordinary sight of pert bosoms (belonging pert bosoms extraordinary sight of ‘Goddess – the sculpture to their misshapen Light’). Callof ahead for a boat pick-up or backwaters on three sides. The enormous sides. The enormous on three backwaters windows to and lots of Jacuzzis rooms have and the enjoy the views, the morning breeze valam’s sleeping bunch, this estate crowns crowns this estate valam’s sleeping bunch, peninsula surrounded by leisurely a breezy .kollamlakeviewresort.com; s/d Rs 1300/1500, Panamukkom; AC Rs 2300/2500; with deluxe and institutional hotel. The big, brightand institutional hotel. execu- and bathtub rooms (Rs 1300) with AC tive OK value. are once funky, but now dated, mirrored-ceiling mirrored-ceiling once funky, but now dated, to design, this is a slightlyapproach shabby 1400/1650) are smaller and quieter. 1400/1650) are galow Rd; r Rs 400-450, d with AC Rs 800-1300; rooms in the front wing are spacious but very spacious but very rooms in the front wing are (s/d Rs rooms at the back noisy. The executive .hotelsudarsan.com; s Rs 450, s/d with AC from Rs 750/850; all the non-AC Welcoming but overpriced, dysfunctional, they’re sanitary and all have sanitary and all have dysfunctional, they’re A fun the backwaters. balconies overlooking is Rs 35. the lake ride across taxi-boat KTDC Nivas Yatri and slightly run-down Though the rooms are Shame about the complete lack of windows. lack of about the complete Shame MIDRANGE mood lighting, rooms come in shades of lime, of mood lighting, come in shades rooms and TVs. furniture stylishly modern and have brings a desperately needed touch of class to class needed of brings a desperately touch lit by walls are Bright category. red the budget 300/400, s/d with AC Rs 500/800; and wooden floors. They’re a bargain but but a bargain They’re and wooden floors. isolated. of the centre on Ashtamudi Lake) has im- on Ashtamudi the centre of mense, crumbling rooms with high ceilings stainedbut at least the walls and musty rooms, light. plenty of and there’s clean sheets are 130/200) The DTPC office keeps a list of list of a The DTPC office keeps Sleeping Sleeping BUDGET Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book of faded grandeur, this Raj relic (3km north faded grandeur, this Raj relic of with AC Rs 220/240; 200-500) KERALA minutes for Kayamkulam. offatthe Get .alappuzhatourism.com; .alappuzhatourism.com; office. DTPC Tourist Reception Centre Reception DTPC Tourist Danys Bookshop There are ATMs several aroundtown. Information is dangerous. no shelter andswimming atthebeach itself city centre; it’sanice,shaded walk, butthere’s centre. Thebeach isabout 2kmwestof the is4kmsouthwestoftrain station thetown other; thehotels are spread farandwide. The andboatjettyareThe busstand toeach close Orientation forthebackwaters.ing abeeline soak insometropicalvillage life before mak- It’sworthstoppinginAlleppeyto Boat Race. and hometothefamousNehru TrophySnake in Kerala more (andeven agents), formostof is thebase thehouseboat-action to organise aforayintothebackwaters, this ways of theregion. Themostpopularplace of canalsspillingintothevast watery high- pey isamixof aroundagrid shadystreets set A slice of Venice in the % heart of Kerala, Allep- ALAPPUZHA (ALLEPPEY) Kayamkulam. nearthetemple gate,bus stand 2kmbefore Bhaghavathy Temple inFebruary/March. Festival told intheMahabharata. The tion of Gajendra, thechief of theelephants,as depicts theGajendra , orthe libera- and sculptures. Itsrenowned mural 3m-high paintings,antiquefurniturepalace houses architecture. thetwo-storey Nowamuseum, 2-5pm Tue-Sun) palace KollamandAlleppey),thisrestoredtween Two kilometres south of Kayamkulam (be- Krishnapuram PalaceMuseum AROUND KOLLAM There’s aprepaid nearSupreme stand Bakers. Rs 20,butdrivers willaskformore atnight. Most autorickshawtripsshould costaround Getting Around 980 selection ofbooksabout India,andsomeEnglishfiction. selection h Buses (Rs22)leaveBuses few Kollamevery 0477 /pop282,727 10am-1pm &5.30-9pm) Hasasmallbutgood-quality OTENKRL • Aon olm SOUTHERN KERALA••AroundKollam

( isheldatthenearbyChettikulangara % 2441133; admissionRs3; isagrandexampleof Keralan ( % h 2237828; HotelRoyalePark; 8.30am-6pm) Fairly helpful ( % h Bharni Utsavam Bharni Utsavam 2253308; www 10am-1pm & fresh lickof yellowpaintcandotoaplace – friendly folkatPalmy Resort,thisnewlittle Changes cashandtravellerscheques. Mullackal Rds; Mullackal with shared bathroomRs75/135) Lodgings St George BUDGET from town. Alleppey; allarrange pick-upsanddropoffs on thebackwaters afew kilometres northof uninspiring hotels. and amuch nicerchoice thantheprofoundly accommodation inAlleppey;it’sbetter value andheritage home Look outforguesthouse Sleeping cost Rs25perhourforupto10people. (November season the high toMarch). Boats differentwith several itinerariespossiblein ters; alsotheboxed see text, p982 . can arrange canoe-boat tours of thebackwa- Any of thedozensof agencies intown Tours UAE Exchange Police Tourist National CyberPark h Mailbox itage home with a selection ofitage homewith aselection spaciousand .com; dfrom Rs400,withAC900; north of thefootbridge. ting andflyscreens andfree bicycles.It’sjust rooms of varyingsize–allwithmosquitonet- place isvery centralandhas fourlovely, quiet rRs300-500) /palmyresorts; tothebeach.art. It’swalkingdistance pretty, hand-painted frillytouches andbright, and are inlaid withbambooandthatch, have The cheaper roomsare building inaseparate around asmall,luxuriantcourtyardgarden. 180-year-oldtifully preserved, homeset deal around.Thebetter roomsare inabeau- Bazaar; rRs250-550) rooms have quite awaft. but allare very basic.Thecommunalbath- Theresleepable. are loads of different rooms, this once-grimy cheapie isnoweminently per hrRs30; There are relaxed several optionstostay The DTPCorganises motor-boat rental, Gowri Residence Residence Gowri Palmy Residency Home Heritage Vrindavanam

8.30am-11.30pm) Internetaccess. ( % h Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h 2339994; Boat Jetty Rd;perhrRs40; 2339994; BoatJetty ( ( 10am-10pm Mon-Sat)Internetaccess. % % 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,to1pmSun) Definitely thebestbudget 2251161; ( 1800 4259585;cnrCullan&

%

( ( ( % % % 2251620; CCNB Rd;s/dRs106/190, Run by the same super- Runbythesame 2236371; www.gowriresidence 2238688; YMCACompound; 2235938; h It’samazingwhata a 24hr) (

%

) A friendly her- www.geocities.com 2263321; Zacharia 2263321; Zacharia KERALA A2 B3 B3 A5 B1 B4 B1 B3 A5 A5 B2 A3 B4 A2 A3 B2 B2 B2 A2 A1 B2 On 981 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 With 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 2235004; palmgrove % (

2235938; www.geocities.com % (

9847750000; Punnamada Rd; r Rs 500) Rd; r Rs 500) 9847750000; Punnamada 2245825; www.johnsonskerala.com; d Rs % 2235211; www.sonahome.com; Shornur Canal ( % ( Run by a gracious family, this herit-

% ( In a garishly painted mansion filled with mansion In a garishly painted Sona LakePalmy Resort Palm GrovePalm Lake Resort Palmy Residency...... SLEEPING Hot Kitchen...... Hotel Aryas...... Indian Coffee House...... Indian Coffee House...... Kream Korner...... Kream Korner...... Royal Park Hotel...... Sree Durga Bhavan Udipi Hotel...... Bus Stand...... Jetty...... INFORMATION Bank...... Canara 18) Danys Bookshop...... (see Centre...... DTPC Tourist Reception 18) Federal Bank ATM...... (see Mailbox...... Park...... National Cyber State Bank ATM...... 2) Tourist Police...... (see UAE Exchange...... UTI Bank ATM...... Hotel Raiban...... St George Lodgings...... Springs Inn...... EATING TRANSPORT peace draped over this small homestay, 3.5km peace draped over Alleppey. It’s set among palm groves north of and the wonderful own- near the backwaters meals on request. provide ers [email protected]; cottages d Rs 1200-1500) Punnamada; 650) and enormous greenery rooms with lots of unusual expan- have balconies. The owners bathtubs on the balco- sion plans that involve rooms (Rs 250 to 400) nies, as well as cheaper out the back. It’s not signposted. Rd; d Rs 700) rooms with lots home has cool, spacious age high rosewood ceilings, four- character, of beds with nets and secludedposter verandas It’s 1km north garden. a well-kept overlooking town. of Springs Inn MIDRANGE & TOP END Johnson’s Three niftyThree little rooms in a comely Keralan-style house. funky furniture, this place has big and bright funky furniture, /palmyresorts; Rd East; cottages Rs 750) Punnamada four handsome cottages, two in bamboo and four handsome cottages, and charm loads of there’s two in concrete, 20 2 Footbridge 9 Resort (3km) Nest (300m) 11 To Cherukara To Sona (1km); Palm Grove Lake Alappuzha (Alleppey) KERALA •• SOUTHERN B 21 7 1 Vembanad Lake (2.5km); Mullackal Palmy Lake Resort (3.5km);

6 (500m) 12

Devi Temple To Gowri Residence Mullackal Rd Mullackal 00 0.1 miles 200 m 10 17 15 19 CCSB Rd CCNB Rd 16 Statue Cullan Rd 2251930; s/d Rs 200/300, d with AC Post Mermaid Office VCSB (Boat Jetty) Rd Temple North Canal 3 % South Canal ( 5

Kidangamparamba To Kollam (86km)

A YMCA Rd YMCA ) Basic, clean rooms in an institutional setting. 4 14 18 a 13 8 Punnamada Rd Also recommended: ALAPPUZHA (ALLEPPEY) ALAPPUZHA 5 2 3 1 4 Vrindavanam Heritage Home (2km) To Chakara Restaurant (2km); Raheem Residency (2km); Beach (2km); Sri Shwetamber Temple (2km) To Train Station (4km) To Johnson's (1.3km) To Vembanad Restaurant (3km) To Anamika (1.5km) Rs 800; Hotel Raiban town any time, there are free bicycles, and bicycles, free are town any time, there good food is served in gazebos in the garden or on your veranda. comfortable nets. The rooms with mosquito in will pick you up and drop you off owners Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book KERALA 982 boats duringthehighseason. oneofthefrequentyou cantake busesfromthere toAlleppey(Rs30,1½hours). anytime. (aroundRs100)and Fromhere youthe10kmtoKarunagappally arickshawwilltake cruise adayortwolater. Alternatively, a(free) youcantake ferry totheothersideofcanal ashram forRs150perday(includingsimplevegetarian meals)andpickupanonwardorreturn out ofluckifyou’re after acuddle. books topostcardsofhertoes. Ammatravels aroundformuchoftheyear,soyoumightbe treatments, yogaandmeditation,aswellsouvenirs fromthecultofAmma,everything from monks andnuns,students,IndianfamiliesWesterners. There’s food available,Ayurvedic arrive offtheboat.It’sahugecomplex,witharound2000peoplelivinghere permanently– tours at5pmeachday,oryoumaybeabletogetsomeoneshow aroundwhenyou often hugging thousandsofpeopleinmarathonall-nightsessions. The ashramrunsofficial (Mother) andiscalled‘The Hugging Mother’becauseofthe anandamayi. OneofIndia’svery few female gurus,AmrithanandamayiisknownasAmma of private operators. canbe chartered throughtheDTPCinKollamorAlleppey, orthroughamultitude rooms). Food(and an onboardcheftocookit)isgenerally includedinthequoted cost.The on thewater underagalaxy ofstars–it’saworldawayfromtheclamourIndia. food,meetinglocalvillagersandsleepingcoconut palms,eatingdeliciouslyauthentic Keralan every darnedrupee.experiences inIndia,butit’sworth Drifting throughquietcanalslinedwith Renting a a houseboat designedlike Houseboats damayi Mission Some travellers have reported becomingbored withtheeight-hour trip. villagelifetem thebackwaters thatmakes andyouwon’tseemuchoftheclose-up somagical. the cruiseislimited thattheboattravels bythefact alongthemajorhighwaysofcanalsys- of fruit,softdrinksandbeertosell.Bringsunscreen andahat. element over thestandardmeal!)andabriefafternoon chaistop.The crew hasanicebox full cheaper rates butyou’llenduppayingthedifference onboard. someoffer foroneorotheroftheseservices; Many hotels bookings inKollamandAlleppeytake and arrives at6.30pm,operatingdailyfromAugust toMarchandevery seconddayatothertimes. The popular at10.30am cruise betweenKollamandAlleppey(adult/studentRs300/250)departs Tourist Cruises few metres wide. daily chores andtinysettlementswhere peoplelive onnarrowspitsofreclaimed landonlya are smallvillageswithmosques,churches,temples andschools,villagersgoingabouttheir conut fibre), copra(driedcoconutmeat)andcashewsare loaded onto boats. Alongtheway with cantilevered Chinesefishingnets,andtravel alongnarrow,shadycanalswhere coir(co- Tripsthroughthebackwaters studded crossshallow,palm-fringedlakes power astransport. waterways were andmanyvillagerstodaystillusepaddle- theslipperyhighwaysofKerala, waterways thatfringethecoastandtricklefarinland.Longbefore theadvent ofroadsthese The istravellingundisputed ofatriptoKerala main attraction throughthe900kmnetworkof THE BACKWATERS OTENKRL • TeBcwtr SOUTHERN KERALA••TheBackwaters The DTPCofficesinAlleppey( p980 ) andKollam( p977 ) runsome sightseeingtoursontourist Visitors shoulddress andthere codeofbehaviour. conservatively isastrict Youcanstayatthe Houseboats cater forgroups(withuptoeight bunks) orcouples(onetwodouble bed- thetriphalfway(Rs150)andgetoffat Another optionistotake It’s ascenicandleisurely waytogetbetweenthetwotowns,butasabackwater experience Generally, there are twostops:a1pmlunchstop(beaware forevery thatyou’llpayextra Kerala Tourism

( %

(www.keralatourism.org) 0476-2896399; www.amritapuri.org; Amrithapuri) 0476-2896399; www.amritapuri.org; producesa (ricebarge) couldbeoneofyourmostexpensive BackwaterMap darshan , theashramofMathaAmrith- . (blessing)shepractises, Matha Amrithanan- lonelyplanet.com KERALA 983 . The tours (from Kochi, Kollam or Alleppey) are from 2½ to 2½ to from Kochi, Kollam or Alleppey) are tours (from . The kettuvallam SOUTHERN KERALA •• The Backwaters In Alleppey, rented canoe boats offer a nonguided laze through the canals on a small, cov- through the a nonguided laze canoe boats offer In Alleppey, rented Pollution from houseboat motors is becoming a real problem as their numbers swell every their numbers swell every problem as Pollution from houseboat motors is becoming a real This is the biggest business in Kerala and some operators are unscrupulous. The boats come boats come The unscrupulous. in Kerala biggest business is the are and some operators This in Kerala as soon as you set foot will be pushing their boats of and most reps Travel-agency Alleppey and houseboat between Alleppey and Kollam, or between by It’s possible to travel Expect for 24 hours to cost anything from a boat for two people hugely variable. Prices are six hours in duration and cost around Rs 300 to 600 per person. They include visits to villages to villages include visits per person. They six hours in duration and cost around Rs 300 to 600 to watch coir-making, boat building, toddy (palm beer) tapping and , and on the Munroe Island trip from Kollam (see The longer trips a traditional Keralan lunch is provided. recommended an excellent tour of this type; the tourist desk in Ernakulam also organises ) is p978 ). p1006 tours (see way to spend a relaxing canoe for up to four people (Rs 600 for four hours) – the ultimate ered afternoon. Environmental Issues Environmental Issues and industrial and agricultural problems, such as pollution, land reclamation, Environmental banks. on their and the communities that live the backwaters seriously threaten development, Many only at one-thirdare levels. of their mid-19th-century that the backwaters It’s estimated is the unhin- obvious problem Another very migratory birds no longer visit the backwaters. moss or Nile cabbage), which clogs many stretches (African hyacinth of water spread dered of the canals. for houseboat system introduced an ecofriendly accreditation Keralan authorities have season. The being issued with the ‘Green an operator must fulfil before Among the categories operators. the installation of solar panels and sanitary tanks for the disposal of waste, are Certificate’ Palm is still new, ask the system Although motors. as well as trying to minimise the use of outboard been talk of running boats on certification. There’s the requisite operators whether they have consider choosing Seriously yet to see this being implemented. cleaner natural gas, though we’ve a punting, rather than motorised, boat. If you want the local backwater transport experience, or a shorter trip, there are State Water Water State transportIf you want the local backwater are or a shorter experience, trip, there Transport boats daily from 7.30am five boats between Alleppey and Kottayam (Rs 12, 2½ hours, than the Allep- varied landscape Lake and has a more crosses Vembanad trip to 5.30pm). The pey cruise. Public Ferries Ferries Public Village Tours & Canoe Boats Boats Tours & Canoe Village an to six people, a knowledgeable guide and five small groups of tours usually involve Village open canoe or covered in a range of qualities, from veritable rust buckets to floating palaces – try to lay eyes on the rust bucketson the – try to lay eyes to floating palaces qualities, from veritable in a range of food) has (eg that everything Make sure on a price. agreeing in before travelling boat you’ll be in your price. been included who booked from people backwater their trip outside the we hear about are the bad experiences but it’s also the more (350 boats and counting!), in Alleppey Your choice is greater hub towns. likely approaching backwater-gridlock to get caught in something quite and you’re popular base in the high season. there boats larger These an inboard motor. boats that operate but only on larger 24 hours Kochi, over propelled by punting that are Those as environmentally friendly. but aren’t not only cost more as much distance (no more obviously don’t allow you to cover with two long bamboo poles a round trip from Alleppey), but can be a wonderfullythan 15km in 24 hours, usually relaxing way to travel. in the peak season you’ll a bargain; the high season to negotiate Rs 3500. Shop around outside pay more. definitely lonelyplanet.com KERALA top-end optionof choice, thisisaromantic, cream (Rs22)beatsafrappuchino anyday choices,tandoori andthecoldcoffee withice- families. There’s amulticuisinemenuwith phere andispopularwithIndianforeign place hastwolocationswitharelaxed atmos- to live from6.30pm). music(nightly eating optionsaround,youcandinepoolside making thetripouthere. Oneof thebetter the AlleppeyPrinceHotel, it’swellworth at lunchtime and SouthIndianbreakfasts –itgets packed recommendedcomes highly forveg meals Hot Kitchen Eating Anamika Nest Cherukara stocked library. andthere’sand comfortable, athoughtfully period fixtures. Thecommonareas are airy dashing antiquefurniture andappropriate an 1860smansion.Allroomshave bathtubs, architecturally acclaimedrefurbishment of residency.com; BeachRd;s/dfrom€117/130; perfect patioviewsof thelake. verandas,with secluded outdoorshowers and tion, withstylish cottages innaturalmaterials of theNehruCuprace,thisisanupmarket op- point tothestarting close Punnamada Lake, 984 agreeable furniture andlamplighting. homewithfourmassive,breezy rooms, Christian Syrian Rd;dinclbreakfast Rs1500-2000)Elegant (Boat Jetty) Breakfast included. old familyhome,withroomydoublesandlotsofcharacter. .net.in; dRs550,withAC1200; Kream Korner Kream Vembanad Restaurant Residency Raheem Also recommended: June and September. officefor details. Ask atany KTDC point andseparates youfromgatheringsofrowdymen.Take food,drinkandanumbrella. from Rs75to500 for thebestseatsinTouristPavilion, whichoffers viewsofthefinishing arts. with floatsandperforming theannualevent traditionsofancientKeralaspectators, celebrates theseafaringandmartial in unisonandshadedbygleamingsilk umbrellas. Watchedavidlybythousandsofcheering boat isover prow,andiscrewed byupto100rowerssinging 30mlong witharaised,snaking gust eachyear,withscores ofgiant, low-slung This famous regatta onVembanad placeonthesecondSaturday ofAu- inAlleppeytakes Lake NEHRU TROPHYSNAKEBOAT RACE OTENKRL • Aapza(lepy SOUTHERN KERALA••Alappuzha(Alleppey) Other less famous but no less spectacular boatracesare lessfamousbutnospectacular held aroundthebackwatersOther between Tickets entitleyou toseatsonbambooterraces, whichare erected fortheraces. Pricesrange ( % (Mullackal Rd;thaliRs22-28) (Mullackal 242044; www.anamikahome.com; VCSB VCSB 242044; www.anamikahome.com; . ( %

(Mullackal Rd;dishesRs40-80) (Mullackal 2251509; lakes_lagoon@satyam

(

% (AS Rd;mainsRs30-150) a 2239767; www.raheem ) Gracious,century- as This place The This ) At chundan vallam Excellent food is served upinthisswish foodisserved Excellent (Rs 90,3½hours, 20minutes) every also toTrivandrumErnakulam route, withbuses along theTrivandrum–Kollam–Alleppey– There thatoperate are frequent services BUS VCSB (BoatJetty) Rd;see p983 . Ferries fromthejettyon runtoKottayam BOAT Getting There&Away 24) Veg foodandmore thalis. BhavanUdipiHotel Durga Sree cheap vegrestaurant. Aryas Hotel Rs 4-12) Indian CoffeeHouse available atRs990perbottle. European cuisine. Grover’s Estate wineis bines elementsof traditionalKeralan and place intown. Residency isthemostexpensive, andbest, €12; (Rs70). masala buttera Kingfisherwithyourtasty chicken bar,soyoucanhavein theupstairs licensed hotel’s restaurant, menu andithasthesame Trivandrum (Rs47/180,three hours). class/AC chair Rs28/142,1½hours) and There are frequent trainstoErnakulam(2nd TRAIN than theferry. 30minutes)every are considerably faster (Rs28,1¼hours, toKottayam hours). Buses stopping atKollamandKochi (Rs36,1½ Chakara Restaurant Chakara Royal Park Also try: h lunch &dinner) (Collectorate Rd;mealsRs12-20)Hasa (Collectorate Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(snake boats)competing. (snake Each Hotel

The menuiscreative andcom-

The restaurant at Raheem The restaurant atRaheem (Mullackal Rd&YMCARd;snacks (Mullackal (YMCA Rd;mealsRs45-210; (YMCA

( % 2230767; BeachRd;3courses (Cullan Rd;thaliRs a )

KERALA 985 Ve- 9.30am- h 2560479; around Rs 2300501; Good to greet you in to greet %

% ( ( 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) At Definitely the pick Definitely ) 2563293; KK Rd; s/d from Rs h a % (

2568012; MC Rd; s/d Rs 250/300) homestays 2303865; 1st fl, MC Rd; Last Supper Last 2568391; MC Rd; s/d Rs 350/700, with AC 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) For changing 2560479; % ( %

9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Excellent 2563418; KK Rd; per hr Rs 25; % ( Looking like a very lost ski-chalet lost ski-chalet a very Looking like ) (

h % ( h % a ( at the DTPC office, but most of these at the DTPC office, of but most The 16th century brought the Portu- 16th century brought the Portu- The 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Fast internet connections. 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Fast SYRIAN CHRISTIANS IN INDIA IN SOUTH CHRISTIANS SYRIAN was first Christianity it that Tradition has St in the first century, when brought to India apostles) found (one of the original Thomas subcontinent and evange-his way to the of Brahmins.lised a family strong With the Middleearly ties to East, Christians in the Syr- with Kerala themselves aligned century from around the 4th ian Patriarch onwards. guese to Kerala, along with missionaries eager to convert locals to their Roman of the arrival Then brand of Catholicism. 18th century the Anglican British in the led to further unique challenges to India’s communities of Christianity. Today, small Syrian Christians still survive in Kerala, pro- all the way back a faith that dates fessing apostle. to one adventurous Hotel Venad Hotel Aida Ambassador Hotel of Kottayam. There are a couple of ATMs in ATMs a couple of are Kottayam. There of Kottayam. the boat jetty. h nad’s rooms are central, a little weathered and little weathered central, a nad’s rooms are for a night’s dark. It’s do-able depressingly to rooms will have though street-facing rest, the street. of with the racket contend Rs 500/850; UAE Exchange UAE Sleeping dire. is pretty Accommodation for all budgets for Try checking 500-1000) will be outside town. 200/250, d with AC Rs 600; spartan the rooms are litter, the budget of a but speckless, spacious and quiet. There’s and a huge restaurant an adequate bakery, the painting of the lobby. DC Books Heritage Bookshop DTPC office Sify iWay Shepherd St; collection titles. culture philosophy and of literature, cash or travellers cheques. 6pm Mon-Sat,

Green- is held in Around Alleppey SOUTHERN KERALA •• Malayala 2724497, 9495557675; greenpalms@sifi 2724497, 9495557675; % (

Thirunakkara Utsavam Festival Thirunakkara Utsavam Festival

0481 / pop 172,867 The Kottayam is a bookish town: the first Ma- Kottayam town: the first is a bookish A mere 10km from Alleppey, and run by from Alleppey, and run 10km A mere

To get here, call ahead and catch one of the one of catch call ahead and here, To get

The KSRTC bus stand is 1km south of the bus stand is 1km south of The KSRTC the boat jetty a further 2km (at Kodi- centre, matha), while the train station is 1km north Orientation & Information Orientation & Information began forcing Keralan Christians to switch to switch Christians began forcing Keralan to Catholicism in the 16th century (see the ). right text boxed and seminaries, Kottayam was a refuge for and seminaries, Kottayam was a refuge when the Portuguese church the Orthodox Temple. at the Thirunakkara Shiva March and is the headquarters of DC Books, Kerala’s DC Books, Kerala’s of and is the headquarters churches A place of chain. excellent bookshop home to the newspaper circulation in India) (with the second-largest lished here in 1820 and it was the first district the first in 1820 and it was lished here Today it’s 100% literacy. in India to achieve layalam-language printing press was estab- press printing layalam-language good place to make a connection between a connection good place to make or to pop into the pretty these two regions, Kumarakom. of village backwater for being Kerala’s centre of the spice and rub- of centre for being Kerala’s ber trade than for its aesthetic appeal. It’s a Sandwiched between Ghats and Sandwiched the Western renowned Kottayam is more backwaters, the KOTTAYAM KOTTAYAM % hourly ferries from Alleppey to Chennamkary from Alleppey hourly ferries this is a Please(Rs 5, 1¼ hours). remember appropriately. dress traditional village; quiet, there are no roads in sight and you sight no roads in and you are quiet, there bicycles (Rs 20/100 per hour/day), can rent canoe cook- take trips (Rs 150) or ask about ing classes. the village and its traditions, and will prepare and will prepare and its traditions, the village wonderfully meals a day. It’s Keralan three in basic rooms in villagers’ homes among the in basic rooms in villagers’ double as guides to rice paddies. Your hosts a universe away. Seta universe in a typical and ridicu- you sleep village, backwater lously picturesque .com; Chennamkary; s/d/tr with full board Rs 1000/1500/1750) bucolic homestaysis a series that seems of like down and stay in a village can be even more even can be down and stay more in a village rewarding. Thomas, ever-helpful and the erudite from Alleppey, and while touring on a house- and while touring on from Alleppey, experience, taking to slow time boat is a great AROUND ALLEPPEY ALLEPPEY AROUND all directions in snake backwaters Kerala’s palm Homes Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book KERALA The restaurant at this hotel serves upgreat The restaurant atthishotel serves tous thali(Rs35). and SouthIndianfoodaswellthe ubiqui- North mealtimes, thispopulareatery serves its fanroom orinAC comfort. Indian victuals, bothveg andnonveg, ineither Suryaas Hotel Eating fishingnetsforthesnaphappy. Chinese are strewn aroundlake-side grounds,with they’re still overpriced. Luxuriouscottages furnished, spaciousandwithbathtub–but –minimallythe bestroomsinKottayam carbuncleofThis grandiose abuildinghas .net; MCRd;s/dRs2500/3000,cottages5000; shop andrestaurant onsite. It’sgoodvalue. ficiently, andthere’s aninternet centre, coffee roomy, butboring,abodes. It’sallrunvery ef- business-focused contender, thisplacehas .com; MCRd;s/dfromRs1200/1400; but onthedarkanddowdyside.fortable, from theoutside,roomsinsideare com- 986 Bird Sanctuary To Kumarakom (16km) 1 3 Canal 2 KOTTAYAM Hotel Green Park Green Hotel Windsor Castle Pearl Regency Thirunakkara Shiva Temple (37km);Chengannur (50km); Aranmula(60km); To PearlRegency(300m); OTENKRL • Aon lepy SOUTHERN KERALA••AroundAlleppey Nalekattu (2km);Tiruvilla Cultural Centre(60km) Windsor Castle(2km); (35km); SreeVallabha

Vijnana KalaVedi Temple Azad La Azad T

e

m

p AC l

e

(TB Rd;dishesRs10-30; (TB Rd

( ( %

% (Nagampadon; mealsRs 30-90; 2561123; www.pearlregencyktm 2363637; www.thewindsorcastle 7 Stand (Old) Private Bus 5 To BoatJetty(1km); ai DTPC Office(1km) MC Rd 8 PO Rd Office Municipal Ground Post a Aslicknew ) & Stage

)

B Packed at YMCA 11

2

10 as Rd To SyrianOrthodox

Ettumanur (12km)

Churches (3km); TB Rd TB 13

a KK Rd KK 9 Market ) )

1 With afriendlyfamilyatmosphere, thistidy,

Shastri Rd ner) of thisSouthIndianinstitution. utes). There are to KumilyforPeri- alsobuses and Kochi (Rs44, twohours, 30min- every drum (Rs86,four hours, 20minutes) every The KSRTC toTrivan- hasbuses busstand BUS Ferries runtoAlleppey;see p983 . BOAT Getting There&Away Basant Hotel Indian CoffeeHouse (duck inrich coconutgravy, Rs110). as delicious Keralan specialities,suchand serves isinanopen-walledpavilion Windsor Castle cheesy muzak. nonveg tothesoundof dishes, andtandoori, goodbiryanis,veg and modern placedoes place withsetmeals. chemeen Also try: Nalekattu ThetraditionalKeralan restaurant atthe Meenachil To HotelGreenPark(400m); Train Station(1km); Nagambaram (New) 3 4 Bus Stand(1km) Jerusalem Church Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (mangocurry,Rs125)and (TB Rd;mealsRs22)Popularlunchtime (TB

(2nd fl,KKRd;Rs40-80; (MC Rd;dishesRs60-125;

Tourist Police...... (see13) State BankofIndiaATM...... (see12) Sify iWay...... Global TrustBankATM...... Federal BankATM...... Canara BankATM...... INFORMATION A xhne...... B2 UAE Exchange...... oe ia...... A3 Hotel Aida...... Meenachil...... Indian CoffeeHouse...... Hotel Suryaas...... Hotel Basant...... Hotel Venad...... Ambassador Hotel...... EATING SLEEPING ST u tn...... B3 KSRTC BusStand...... TRANSPORT (TB Rd)Wejustcan’tgetenough (TB 0.3miles 500m 0 0 6 King Cathedral Christ the Manorama Malayala h D h lunch &dinner) Bookshop (300m) lunch &din- To DCBooks 12 To Periyar 13 12 11 10 Sanctuary 5 4 3 2 1 tharavu 8 7 6 9 (114km) Heritage Wildlife C2 C1 B3 C2 D2 B3 B3 B2 B2 D2

KERALA )

a 987 The God 2525230; www 2525230; % 0468-2214483; www ( at Aranmula, at Aranmula,

2524377; retreat.kuma performances that % (

% ( 2524491, reservations 0484-

% centre ( Kathakali at Ettumanur, 12km north Ettumanur, 12km north at . , involving exposition of the the , involving exposition of The height of secluded The height luxury, of ) This sprawling resort has beautiful This sprawling resort ) (ancestral home) cottages. There’s There’s (ancestral home) cottages. festival as Shiva Temple as Coconut Lagoon Tharavadu Heritage Home Garden RetreatTaj Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre This French-run Mukku) .vijnanakalavedi.org; Tarayil highly rec- 10km from Chengannur, offers ex- in Indian arts with ommended courses You can choose to study from pert teachers. The Kottayam, dating from has inscriptions of the building may be even 1542, but parts of for its is noted older than this. The temple exceptional woodcarvings and murals similar The Palace. to those at Kochi’s annual in his fierce form) and elephant idol (Shiva processions, is held in February/March. Sree Temple 2km at this temple, offerings Devotees make traditional, in the form of from Tiruvilla, all-night regular Kot- 35km south of open to all. Tiruvilla, are tayam, between is on the rail route Ernakulam and Trivandrum. lagoon in extensive grounds and luxury villas lagoon in extensive It’s right next door to the bird on the lake. sanctuary, ornithologists don’t so wannabe their porch. to leave have 2668221; [email protected]; cottages US$190- 375; tharawad as long as your arm, includ- activities a list of ing cooking classes, traditional music lessons by boat from walks. It’s reachable and village sanctuary the jetty just north of the private This place might seementrance. familiar to ’s read those who have Small Things of Ettumanur .tharavaduheritage.com; AC Rs 1200/1800; r without/with house’, family an apt means ‘large Tharavadu re- in the perfectly Rooms are description. or in indi- family mansion, 1870s teak stored, crafted, well All are cottages. vidual, creekside beams, and teak-wood some with glistening relaxing big bay windows and with others the bird sanctuary before patios. It’s 4km cottage r US$245, villa s/d US$150/160, [email protected]; US$385; this excellent resort has rooms in a lovingly has rooms in a lovingly this excellent resort colonial house, on a private cottages restored was Around Kottayam KERALA •• SOUTHERN 2525864; Indian/ % ( is on the 5-hectare is on the 5-hectare

2525980; r without/with AC %

( 6am-5.30pm) The God of Small Things, The God of h If you are on a budget, this has this on a budget, If you are ) a

Arundhati Roy, author of the 1997 Booker the 1997 Booker Arundhati Roy, author of

Buses between Kottayam’s KSRTC stand andBuses between Kottayam’s KSRTC 500m south of the sanctuary entrance. 500m south of Rs 600/1100; small, bucolic rooms in a friendly family home SLEEPING SLEEPING Mooleppura Guest House Kumarakom (Rs 8, 30 minutes, every 15 min- Kumarakom (Rs 8, 30 minutes, the sanctuary. stop at the entrance to utes) species, such as the Indian shag, pond herons, as the Indian shag, species, such Early morning is the best and . egrets viewing time. osprey, marsh harrier and steppey eagle, while harrier and steppey marsh osprey, season to July is the breeding for local May birds. October to February is the time for is the time for to February birds. October teal, as the garganey birds, such travelling site of a former rubber plantation and is the of site domestic and migratory a variety of haunt of SIGHTS SIGHTS SanctuaryKumarakom Bird Rs 5/45; foreigner Prize–winning kom’s less-crowded canals, but expect to pay than in Alleppey. considerably more resplendent, top-end sleeping options. You resplendent, houseboats throughcan arrange Kumara- on the shore of Vembanad Lake, is an un- Vembanad of on the shore of town with a smattering hurried backwater AROUND KOTTAYAM AROUND KOTTAYAM Kumarakom Kottayam and 16km west of Kumarakom, bus stand is around Rs 30, and from the bus stand to the train station Rs 20. Most about Rs 15. trips around town cost An autorickshaw from the jetty to the KSRTC jetty to the KSRTC An autorickshaw from the 12 daily). Getting Around 2AC Rs 50/251/399, three hours, 10 daily) 10 daily) hours, Rs 50/251/399, three 2AC 1½ hours, and Ernakulam (Rs 28/188/266, Kottayam is well served trains run- by express ning between (2nd class/3AC/ Trivandrum TRAIN TRAIN hours, five daily). Private buses, which are buses, are daily). Private which five hours, comfortable, depart more and a little faster Stand (New) Bus from the Nagambaram for every 15 minutes) hours, (Rs 37, 1½ Kochi (Rs 63, everyand Kumily hour). yar Wildlife Sanctuary (Rs 66, four hours, hours, 66, four Sanctuary (Rs yar Wildlife 92, 5½ (Rs and Munnar every 30 minutes) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book raised in the nearby Aymanam village. KERALA modation inthevillage andallmeals,are IR Communications DTPC office DC Books Information changeably. Kumily,ThekkadyandPeriyarto use inter- When peoplerefer theytend tothesanctuary, park withtheKTDChotels andboatjetty. poriums. Thekkadyisthecentre insidethe strip of hotels, spiceshopsandKashmiri em- isasmall Kumily, 4kmfromthesanctuary, Orientation warm andwaterproof clothing. jungle walkmake foranenjoyable visit.Bring scenery ontheroadup,lake and a cruise Disneyland-in-the-Ghats, butthemountain tourist spot,andcansometimesfeel like and atleast46 tigers. Thisisanestablished bar, wildboar,langur,over 1000 elephants by theBritishin1895.It’shometobison,sam- sq km,witha26-sq-kmartificiallake created 777 popular wildlife encompasses sanctuary, foreigner Rs25/300; Periyar % PERIYAR WILDLIFESANCTUARY THE WESTERNGHATS August/September. book wellahead. to youwillneed though (US$32 pernight), ofstays onetothree are nights alsopossible title youtoadiscountonyourfees. Short children inthevillage schools, which willen- Youcanvolunteer toteachstays. English to –lessforlongerUS$230/650 perweek/month to Friday. minimum of three hours perday,Monday are generally individualandare heldfora Sanskrit andHindi) ing, Keralan cooking, languages (Malayalam, orpercussiveCarnatic music, mural paint- tam Kathakali or a range of 15subjects,includingAyurveda, 988 Behind bus stand. India. andbooksabout offiction but decent-qualityselection The Fees, which includelessons,accom- 04869 and H ETR HT • PryrWllf acur THE WESTERNGHATS ••Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

( % Aranmula Boat Race Aranmula BoatRace ( % bharatanatyam ( 224571; www.periyartigerreserve.org; Indian/ 224571; www.periyartigerreserve.org; % 222548;

ahkl make- up, Kathakali 222620; h (perhrRs40; 6am-6pm) h h 8.30am-9.30pm) Hasasmall 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) kalarippayat , SouthIndia’smost (classicaldances), isheldhere in h 7am-10pm) mohiniat- . Classes . Classes

person Rs100 vance reservations). Thefirst andlastdepar-vance reservations). before ascheduled triptobuytickets (noad- times to see animals. times tosee and October toMarch are generally thebest tures offer thebestwildlife-spotting prospects, to the doesn’t guarantee aplaceontheboat;get offer Entrytothepark somecommentary. and are driven workers bysanctuary whomay offer achance togettheanimals, abitcloser boats The smaller,more decrepit willbefromafar. anywildlifethough yousee ary. The isenjoyable enough, boat tripitself lake are theusualwayof touringthesanctu- h Two-hour VISITING THEPARK Sights &Activities Centre Wildlife Interpretation Wildlife InformationCentre BankofTravancore State Cafe Spider-Net paintings doneby villagers. village ticket). Thewalkincludes avisittothesmall yourparkday- (youwill need the sanctuary tours Mannakudy through tribalvillage inside formation onwhat’savailable. www.periyartigerreserve.org formore in- See day three-hour person Rs3000/5000) include two-/three-day ‘tiger trail’ Centre rations of theparkcanbearranged bythe Note are thatleeches common after rain. up, accompaniedbyatrainedtribalguide. are abetter waytoexperiencetheparkclose 100; 9.30pm) 6pm) Above the boat jetty in Thekkady. 6pm) AbovetheboatjettyinThekkady. and dinersatitsrestaurant canattendfree ofcharge. Guests questionsaboutthepark. 9.30pm andanswering resident naturalistshowing slidesbetween7.30pmand This excellentcentre atSpice Village(see p998 ) hasa the ATM acceptsforeign cards. to 12.30pmSat)Changestravellerschequesandcurrency; A numberof more adventurous explo- Guided three-hour A smalloutfitcalled 7am, 9.30am,11.30am,2pm&4pm) h bamboo

(per personRs15; 7am, 10.30am&2pm) ticket office ticket museum h KTDC night treks 8am-4pm) ( , which hassomeoldtoolsand % , full-day

boat trips

( %

(per personRs1000) ( 223727; perhrRs40; h h 224571; does engaging1½-hour does

(per personRs500) 6.30am-5.30pm) 9.30am, 11.30am,2pm&4pm) cover 4kmor5kmand ( (Continued on page 997) jungle walks h (lower/upper deckRs45/100; Tribal Heritage Tour Heritage Tribal

( hikes % h 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ( h Forest Department Department Forest 222028; lonelyplanet.com (per personRs1000)

8am-6pm). 7.30am-7.30pm) aroundthe onthelake.

(per personRs onehour h andfull- h treks These These 9.30am- 6am-

(per (per

,

KERALA

A1 B1 B1 B1 B4 A2 B1 B4 B4 A2 A2 A2 A2 B2 A3 A1 A2 A2 B2 B2 A1 A1 B1 B1 B4 B1 997 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Spice Paradise , offering both both , offering Santhigiri Ayurveda has been for going Abraham’s Spice Garden there is a 4-hectare gar- is a 4-hectare there 6.30am-7.30pm) 7am-7pm) h h 223979; Vandanmedu Junction) 223979; Vandanmedu 222919; 222868; If you’d rather do it independently, you do it independently, If you’d rather EATING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING Mudra...... Bicycle Hire Shacks...... Bus Stand...... Jetty...... Bus Station...... Santhigiri Ayurveda...... Ticket Office...... Aranya Nivas...... Coffee Inn...... El Paradiso...... Green View Homestay...... Leelapankai...... Mickey Homestay...... Periyar House...... Prime Castle...... Rose Cottage...... Spice Village...... Victoria House...... Chrissie's Café...... Coffee Inn...... (see 10) Hotel Lakeshore...... Jungle Café...... (see 10) DC Books...... DTPC Office...... IR Communications...... (see 18) Spider-Net Café...... State Bank of Travancore ATM...... Wildlife Information Centre...... Wildlife Interpretation Centre...... (see 18) Ecotourism Centre...... Indian Spices...... (see 22)

% % %

AYURVEDA AYURVEDA place for the One highly recommended Ayurvedic experience is ( treatments. cial affairs where you may also see you may cial affairs where harvesting seeyou want to If and processing. factory a tea do (worth it for the smell alone), in operation not permitted visits are – tea-factory it here in Munnar. several excellent spice gardens can visit a few Kumily: from kilometres ( their and does of 54 years one-hour tours 50. At garden for Rs 1-hectare ( with Ayurvedicden interplanted herbs among Rs 100. are tours the usual spices. Two-hour massage (from Rs 500) and long-term and long-term (from Rs 500) massage , NADU TAMIL 26 4 2 222868; elephant 24 5am-6pm) 19 % (155km) ( Periyar 23 Wildlife

Sanctuary h To Madurai 7 B Post Office 20 Mosque

3 Rd Kumily 25 14 9 5 8 Indian Spices Munnar (112km) 21 00 500 m 0.3 miles Bypass To Spice Paradise (7km); at 11 15 Thekkady 12

(per person Rs 1500; (per person Rs 1500; 1 Hospital 16 17 Church Lourdes Kumily Central Sanctuary Wildlife •• Periyar THE 22 To Lake Lake

Post 18 Periyar Palace (2km)

Office

Rd

6 Thekkady 13 A A (costing around Rs 400/600 by by (costing around Rs 400/600 . Church St George Orthodox 3km Jungle Post Bridge (per 30 min Rs 250)

Park Entry Kottayam (114km) To Abraham's Spice Spice Garden (5km); 10 Agencies around town arrange all-day all-day town arrange around Agencies To Tribal Heritage Tour (200m) Garden (5km); Green Land KUMILY & PERIYAR WILDLIFE KUMILY & PERIYAR SANCTUARY 2 2 3 3 1 1 4 4 guide. Spice gardens are small domestic gar- small Spice gardens are guide. commer- bigger plantations are dens, whereas hours) can be arranged anywhere and are and are anywhere can be arranged hours) a knowledgeable insightful if you get really Spice tours autorickshaw/taxi and lasting two to three SPICE GARDENS & PLANTATIONS SPICE GARDENS & PLANTATIONS as a paddleboat trip. You can arrange trip. You can arrange as a paddleboat rides which cover over 40km of trails in jungle bor- trails in of 40km over cover which as well include meals Tours dering the park. 4WD (Continued from page 988) lonelyplanet.com

Thekkady Rd)

ὈὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ KERALA in an imposing, pseudo-stone buildingwith in animposing,pseudo-stone rattan furniture rattan andhanging bambooseats. homey touches andmassive balconies with all shapes, sizesandconfigurations.Allhave thefivefamily house, roomshere comein .com; BypassRd;rRs250-600) top-notch. animal-spotting hut.Theirrestaurant isalso andithasits ownsecluded the sanctuary of all,itabuts and nicelyfinished rooms.Best cottages tocomfortable huts andtree houses of simpleaccommodation,fromcute bamboo This isacharming, friendlyplacewitharange Rd;huts/cottagesRs200/250,r400-500) .in; Thekkady to lazeinandthehostsare very friendly. tiny. Thegardenoutthebackhashammocks small sittingareas thesinglesare –though and airydoubleshere, allwithbalconiesand With loadsof greenery, there are great large view.com; BypassRd;sRs150,dinclbreakfast Rs300-600) town’s uninspiringhotels. offering better bang-for-your-rupee thanthe There’s scenein agrowinghomestay Kumily KUMILY AranyaNivas. through by boatacrossthelake. Make reservations ambience.with aRaj-era Transportisonly an appealinglyrestored formergamelodge ary andviewelephantsover breakfast, thisis where inthemidstof youcanstay thesanctu- s/d stewithallmealsRs6750/7850) but thepoolisinalush forest setting. token periodtouches. There are noreal views, .in; s/dfromRs3100/3950; rooms. mustyanddefinitelyslightly overpriced brick, school camp–like complexhasplain, s/d withbreakfast &dinnerfromRs800/1250) ary after 6pm. guests are notpermitted towanderthesanctu- there’s effectively acurfew places– at these office), particularlyforweekends. Note that (atanyKTDC good ideatomake reservations modation ina canarrangeThe EcotourismCentre accom- INSIDE THESANCTUARY Sleeping &Eating 998 Mickey Homestay Mickey o Homestay View Green Palace Lake Aranya Nivas House Periyar The KTDChasthree hotels inthepark.It’sa H ETR HT • PryrWllf acur THE WESTERNGHATS ••Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Coffee Inn

(

% forest cottage forest (

% ( % 222023; [email protected];

( %

( 222023; aranyanivas@sancharnet % 222026; [email protected]; 222026; [email protected]; s (

223196; www.mickeyhomestay Inafetching andlush % 222763; coffeeinn@sancharnet ) Bright, cleanabodes Bright, 211015; www.sureshgreen

(d withmealsRs2000) Theonlyplace Thisfaux- .

Raj-style bar with billiard table) are barwithbilliardtable) Raj-style opento kept grounds.Allthefacilities(including captivating, spaciouscottages inbeautifully talk (see (see talk p988 ). listen toits Wildlife Interpretation Centre attend aKeralan cookingdemonstration and fets, andifyoucomefordinnercanalso lavishnonguests. Therestaurant buf- does fast/lunch/dinner Rs300/500/500; Rd;villasUS$190-250,dUS$200-250,break- .com; Thekkady about Keralan cookinginstruction. and balconieswithhangingbamboo. Ask complex.Allhaveily-house homelytouches massive roomsinalarge andwelcomingfam- Rd; rRs950) per person) hassmall,dark,cheap rooms. chichi bathrooms.Thebudget annexe (Rs100 are spaciousandmanyhave wellmaintained, In agaudypinkcomplex,theroomsinside restaurant are first rate. the viewsof theparkfromporches and They’resanctuary. plainontheinside,but roof cottages situponahilloverlooking the dainty,individualthatched- Leelapankai’s walk allthewaytoAlleppey!). tain-biking adventures (includingajungle Ask trekking aboutlong-distance andmoun- ern meals. Dishes are all madefresh andtake just afew expertly prepared Indian andWest- serves rant, inapeaceful spice-garden setting, tional SouthIndian fare. breakfast (Rs18),pancakes (Rs30)ortradi- a jungle,this budgetsanctuary eatery isgreat for (Rs120). lasagne faves like Trythespinach pizzaandpasta. snacks, andextremely well-prepared Western travellersues tosatisfy withyummycakes and 120) in thebazaararea. There are plentyof goodcheap veg restaurants staff. andveryfriendly with hotwater,TVs, rRs300)Hugeplainrooms lworld.com; Rosappukandam; House Victoria Rose Cottage Green View,thisisagoodhomestay. masala dosa Spice Village Spice Village El Paradiso Castle Prime Coffee Inn Jungle Café Café Chrissie’s Also recommended: Leelapankai Aperennially popularhauntthatcontin- ElParadiso hasfastidiouslyneat, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (meals Rs60-120)

(

(

% % (meals Rs40-80) (

( (curriedvegetables inpancake) ( % % %

(Bypass Rd;snacksRs30-60,meals100-

223146; r Rs 200-500) Next doorto 223146; rRs200-500)Next 222350; www.goelparadiso.com; Bypass ( % 222684; homestaythekkady@emai 223469; Thekkady Rd;dRs850-1200) 223469; Thekkady 9349197934; Thekkady Rd;rRs700) 9349197934; Thekkady 222314; spicevillage@cghearth This laid-back restau- Withviewsintothe s ) Thisplacehas

KERALA

treks and 999 9am- 9am- 10am- h 9am-6pm) h h 10am-6pm) h . Head south on . Head 231136; h 230274; 230274; 230966; per hr Rs 40; 230966; per hr Rs % ( % % 230561; adult/child Rs 50/25; ( ( Pothamedu Viewpoint % is, unfortunately, about about is, unfortunately, (per person Rs 300; (

(per person Rs 300; (per person Rs 250; Atthukad Waterfalls 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) 8am-10pm) New computers put this place a nose computers put this place a nose 8am-10pm) New Tata Tea Museum Tea Tata You can do your own 12km day-trek around day-trek You can do your own 12km around Munnar. 3.30pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) Changes travellers Sun) Changes Mon-Sat, to noon 3.30pm cheques. 7pm) Goes to Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary ( p1001 ). p1001 Sanctuary7pm) Goes to Chinnar Wildlife ( Visits several viewpoints, waterfalls, plantations, a and villages. sandalwood forest Visit Echo Point, Top Station and Rajamalai (for Eravikulam among other places. National Park), Sandal Valley Tour Sandal Valley tour Valley Tea Munnar. A rickshaw to the waterfalls or to to the waterfalls A rickshaw Munnar. the viewpoint and back costs Rs 150. h factory as close to a working tea as you’ll get a slightly It’s sanitised and around Munnar. but it still thing, the real of deserted version old shows the basic process. A collection of bits and pieces from the colonial era, includ- are a 1905 tea-roller, and ing photographs here. also kept Tours full- fairly rushed The DTPC runs a couple of to points around Munnar:day tours Chinnar Wildlife Tour below for tour options). Travel agencies and agencies for tour options). Travel below as well as most passers- autorickshaw drivers, sightseeinga day of by, want to organise for DTPC can organise you; shop around. The half-day, full-day and two- to four-day plantations surrounding of the patchwork Munnar to visit the the roaring the road towards Ernakulum, cross the bridge a take checkpoint, the government just after a path right and continue up the road. Take Copper leading to the viewpoint just after Castle Resort. Continue on to the waterfalls, a shortcut back to you can take from where the Ernakulum–Munnar Rd and either walk, buses, back to the frequent one of or catch State of Travancore Bank Tourist Service Information Triveni Communications Sights & Activities in Munnar is to ex- to be The main reason hillocks that surround it (see the verdant plore ahead sad competition. of some h 6pm) Run by local legend Joseph Iype, a walking6pm) Run by local of Munnar this office has information, Swiss-army knife travel tips and much more. maps, local history, Bicycle (dishes Rs (dishes Rs shows 4.30pm

h 231516; % ( is available from is available -in-India backdrop -in-India backdrop Hotel Lakeshore 6.30am-8pm) •• Munnar THE WESTERN GHATS h 9447157636; admission Rs 125; 9447157636; admission Sound-of-Music % a local favourite for veg and nonveg and nonveg for veg a local favourite ( (per hr Rs 4;

Kathakali shows twice a day; make-up twice a day; make-up shows Kathakali

, 8.30am-7pm) Marginally helpful. 04865 / elev 1524m

Tamil Nadu buses leave every 30 minutes to every 30 minutes Nadu buses leave Tamil Eight buses between Kochi daily operate You can also try You can also h

the bazaar. the bazaar. DTPC Tourist Information Office Information Information south of near the bridge, ATMs are There world’s highest tea-growing estates. But don’t estates. world’s highest tea-growing be fooled by the noisy and grubby namesake attractions lie in the real the region; town of the surrounding hills. air, Munnar really hits the spot after the the hits the spot after air, Munnar really known as the lowlands. Once sticky heat of today Mun- the High Range Travancore, of the some of of nar is the commercial centre of rolling mountain scenery, craggyof peaks, and crisp mountain estates tea manicured % W i t h a a couple of shacks near the bus stand. a couple of MUNNAR it’s a pleasant, into the park. shady walk rental can catch the bus (almost as rare as the tigers), as the tigers), rare the bus (almost as can catch (Rs 40) or set an autorickshaw off on foot; take Getting Around Getting Around Lake; you 4km from Periyar Kumily is about Madurai (Rs 40, four hours) from the Tamil from the Tamil (Rs 40, four hours) Madurai the border. Nadu bus stand just over Trivandrum at 8.45am and 5pm (Rs 148, eightTrivandrum at 8.45am and buses Four morning hours). and one after- noon bus go to Munnar (Rs 68, 4½ hours). every 30 minutes for Kottayamevery (Rs 66, four 30 minutes buses daily to two direct are and there hours), and Kumily (Rs 98, six hours). Buses leave Buses leave hours). and Kumily (Rs 98, six stop at the Kumily bus station, at the eastern station,stop at the Kumily bus at the eastern town. of edge Buses originating or terminating at Periyar Buses at Periyar originating or terminating start at Aranya Nivas, but they also and finish & 7pm) Getting There & Away Mudra 20-60) dishes. Entertainment tuary often make guest appearances. make tuary often a while – but the patient are well rewarded. rewarded. well patient are – but the a while sanc- from the neighbouring Cheeky monkeys lonelyplanet.com starts 30 minutes before the show begins. the starts before 30 minutes KERALA 1000 Tea Museum(1.5km) To Tata 4 6 1 3 2 5 MUNNAR H ETR HT • Mna THE WESTERNGHATS ••Munnar 13 3 15 Waterfalls (9km);Thattekkad 10 Pothamedu Viewpoint(4km); To WindermereEstate(4km); A St Anthony Tall Trees(7km);Atthukad Mount Carmel Statue Bird Sanctuary(60km); Church Wildlife Sanctuary(60km); Christ Ernakulam (130km) 6 Church Bazaar 23 Regional Office To EravikulamNational Park (16km);Chinnar Coimbatore (156km) 8 Tata Tea 16 9 Ground

Sports 12

20 Alwaye – Munnar – Alwaye 17 18 4

Alwaye 25 200m 0.1miles 0 0 (AM) (AM) Rd – Munnar 5

26

2

(AM) Rd Muth

24 irupuzha Muthirupuzha 22 1

19

11 River

Temple Rd Temple River To Kumily(112km); Matt

Anamudi (Peak)(20km), upetty Madurai (160km) 21 Top Station(34km)

14 Rd B 7 To Mattupetty Office Dam (10km), Post ering familyatthisgenial willgo homestay the same thingwith lessattentivethe same staff. in Munnar town, but these arein Munnartown,butthese bestavoided. There are cheap-and-nasty several hotels right Sleeping r Rs500-600) hotwater.geyser rooms are and very andhave clean, bright TV comfortable. Thevariedanduncomplicated out of theirwaytomake sure is yourstay willdoiftheothershomestay are full. next toJJCottage andGreen View,thisbrisk dark. a tad The budget roomsshare bathroomsandare rated, somewithbalconiesandgreat views. the roomsare eclecticallybuttastefully deco- Therehouse. are invitingsittingareas and unique roomsinanattractively landscaped the clatter of thebazaar,Kaippallil hasseveral r Rs200-800) andtop-endoptionsaround. homestay thereIndian towns,though are neat several Prices are thanincomparable abithigher Raja Cycles...... Private BusestoKumily...... KSRTC BusStation...... Jeep &RickshawStand...... (see22) Gokulam BikeHire...... Buses toTopStation...... Buses toKumily&Madurai...... Buses toCoimbatore...... SN Restaurant...... Silver Spoon...... Rapsy Restaurant...... Zina Cottages...... Westwood RiversideResort...... Westend Cottages...... SMM Cottage...... Royal Retreat...... Kaippallil Homestay...... JJ Cottage...... Green View...... Edassery Eastend...... Triveni Communications...... Tourist InformationService...... State BankofTravancoreATM...... Forest InformationCentre...... Federal BankATM...... DTPC TouristInformationOffice...... INFORMATION TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING Hotel SaravanBhavan...... Green View Green SMM Cottage Homestay Kaippallil JJ Cottage Up the hill and away from (most of) Upthehillandawayfrom(mostof) Nextdoor toJJCottage, thisoffers Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(

( % %

( 230104; dRs350-800) % 230940; www.greenviewmunnar.com; 230159; rRs350-500) (

% 230203; www.kaippallil.com; 230203; www.kaippallil.com; The moth- Right 15 14 13 12 11 10 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A6 B5 A1 A5 B6 A1 A5 A5 B1 A1 B1 A2 A2 B2 B4 A1 B6 A5 B1 B2 A1 B5 A1 A1 A2 B4 KERALA

or 1001 , about , about lunch & din- rents bi- rents Nilgiri tahr paratha h 7am-6pm) 9447237165; per day (scrambled eggs eggs (scrambled h

( % (

(Indian/foreigner Rs 15/200; (Indian/foreigner 8.30am-7.30pm)

is south of the town, the town, is south of h has several motorbikes has several motorbikes (Bazaar; dishes around Rs 25-40) (Bazaar; dishes

, 16km from Munnar, is , 16km from Munnar, is (AM Rd) shakshuka

(AM Rd; meals Rs 40-100;

(per hr Rs 8; 7.30am-7pm) Gokulam Bike Hire h 7am-6pm Sep-May) Beneath the Munnar Inn, this popular Silver Spoon Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary Autorickshaws ply the hills around Munnar There are around 10 buses a day to Ernaku- are There Rapsy Restaurant dosas (Rs 15 to 25) and other Indian dishes. dosas Indian dishes. and other (Rs 15 to 25) is outstanding (Rs 60). chicken The butter government bus takes you the final 4km from bus takes government (Rs 20). the checkpoint and 60km northeast 10km past Marayoor elephants leopards, deer, Munnar, hosts of giant squirrel. grizzled and the endangered daily at 2.30pm). Getting Around Raja Cycles cycles. Rs 250; for rent. efficiency;with bone-shuddering they charge from Rs 150 to nearby places and up to Rs 650 for a full day’s sightseeing. AROUND MUNNAR h but almost tame, home to the rare, mountain goat). From Munnar, an (a type of a autorickshaw/taxi costs Rs 150/300 return; Getting There & Away Getting There & Away in poor condi- are Roads around Munnar tion and can be seriously mon- by affected may vary. The main soon rains, so bus times KSRTC bus station buses but it’s best to catch from stands in buses private frequent more town, where departure for bus p1000 also depart. See Map locations. and a few (Rs 84, 4½ hours), lam in Kochi daily services hours), to Kottayam (Rs 92, five and Trivandrum hours) Kumily (Rs 68, five Nadu Tamil are There (Rs 176, nine hours). two (Rs 80, six hours, buses to Coimbatore one (Rs 88, six hours, daily) and Madurai This place is packed at lunchtime, with lo- lunchtime, at packed This place is for Rapsy’scals lining up famous (Rs Spanish omelette like dishes international 25) and Israeli with tomatoes spices Rs 30). and ner) the has some tables overlooking family eatery meal, with fish-curry Keralan and a great river (Rs 60). to savour 12 all-you-can-eat dishes biryani (from Rs 25). It also makes a stab at Rs 25). It also makes biryani (from Just Try this With a With a •• Around Munnar THE WESTERN GHATS This seems to You might be 230884; www.west % 230512; www.winder

( % ( (dishes Rs 15-50) 230451; www.edasserygroup

Resort

230954; d Rs 250-450, with % ( 230349; d incl tax Rs 600-800) 230349;

% 230240; www.royalretreat.co.in; 230240; www.royalretreat.co.in; ( 230641; Pothamedu; cottages Rs 4500- %

(AM Rd; meals Rs 20-80) (

% ( % (

Windermere is a boutique-meets- Windermere

Spread around thick forest and far away forest around thick Spread Hotel Saravan Bhavan Tall Trees Tall You can also try:

SN Restaurant Windermere Estate Edassery Eastend Westwood Riverside Zina Cottages shared bathroom Rs 250) A few darkish bathroom Rs 250) A few shared but clean doubles in a friendly family home. r Rs 1200-1500) Comfortable rooms; OK value by Munnar’s standards.

always be full of people digging into morning always be full of Eating Eating Early morning food stalls in the bazaar serve meals. snacks and cheap breakfast rious and intimate at the same time. There are are at the same There rious and intimate time. farmhouse swankier cot- rooms and newer, with spectaculartages views. Book ahead. US$125-195) to be both luxu- and manages country-retreat dotted with cardamom trees. It’s 7km from with cardamom trees. dotted Munnar. natural-wood finishes, each with balconies with each natural-wood finishes, a views. There’s nature opening to infinite kids’ playground and sprawling grounds from the clamour of the world, this back- the world, from the clamour of with has comfy cottages retreat to-nature around Munnar, where the mountain the serenity around Munnar, where is unbeatable. There are some excellent top-end accom- are There modation options in plantations in the hills Royal Retreat Westend Cottages Disneyland-perfect miniature garden, these miniature Disneyland-perfect blandly comfortableand spacious rooms are a tadprobably overpriced. .com; Mattupetty Rd; cottages Rs 1950-2300) and the rooms are refreshingly pleasant for a refreshingly and the rooms are hotel. standard,cookie-cutter midrange forgiven for thinking you’d stumbled onto a for thinking you’d stumbled onto forgiven wood around polished lots of There’s ski lodge. Information Service (see p999 ). p999 ServiceInformation (see AM Rd; r Rs 1800-2600) woodmunnar.com; ard, as does the piles of information provided provided information ard, as does of the piles Mr Iype from the Tourist owner by gregarious in lush tea plantations, tea in lush these are cosy rooms deal. Stunning vistasan excellent come stand- on the outskirts of town but already immersed immersed already town but outskirts of on the Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book meremunnar.com; Pothamedu; r & cottages incl breakfast Pothamedu; r & cottages incl breakfast meremunnar.com; 5500) popular place for top-value veg banana-leaf veg popular place for top-value meals (Rs 18). KERALA tigers, panthers andsomeof thelargest teak bears, wildboars, chital, sambar, crocodiles, km. It’shometo elephants, bison,gaur, sloth times closes inMarchtimes closes andApril. toAugust)and it some- ing monsoon (June reservoir. isbestavoided The sanctuary dur- Kozhikamthi and youcangoboatingonthe trees inAsia. There’s alsoanelephant campat foreigner Rs25/100; Dams, bikulam, Thunakadavu andPeruvaripallam Resting valleyaroundtheParam-in adeep SANCTUARY PARAMBIKULAM WILDLIFE travels thefinal12km(Rs6,25minutes). thamangalam, fromwhere aThattekkad bus road. Take adirect busfromErnakulamtoKo- meals). (aroundRs600including about homestays bebetter youmight off askingaround though 900/1800) galow amangalam. Otherwise, assistant wildlifewarden the in;contact thatyoucanstay the sanctuary the gate. There’s a canteen withbasicfoodanddrinksjustinside andthere’s(Rs 150to200)inthesanctuary, a rose-billed roller. Youcanrent private guides frogmouthand species, such astheSriLankan grey drongo,junglebabbler, darters andrarer hornbills, parakeets, jungle nightjar, cuckoo, to over 270species,includingMalabar grey h from Munnar. rickshaws (Rs400)alsomake thereturn trip climb inaroundanhour. Taxis (Rs800) and (Rs 25,from7.30am)make 32km thesteep ern Ghats.FromMunnar,fourdailybuses 28, 1½hours). Coimbatore candropyouoff atChinnar(Rs Marayoor. fromMunnarheadingto Buses in Munnar. There isalsoaccommodationin ( the contact details and waterfall treks (Rs35toRs100).For programs like river-trekking, culturalvisits, aresanctuary available, aswellecotour house Trekking (Rs100forthree hours) and 1002 Nadu, has spectacular viewsoverNadu, hasspectacular theWest- % Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary Sanctuary Bird Thattekkad Thattekkad is ontheErnakulam–Munnar Top Station 6am-6pm) 231587; [email protected];

or ( % Parambikulam WildlifeSanctuary Parambikulam ETA EAA • oh Cci) CENTRAL KERALA••Kochi(Cochin) has basic rooms outside the sanctuary, hasbasicroomsoutsidethesanctuary, hut stays 0484-2310324; www.thehornbillcamp.com;s/dRs isaserene 25-sq-kmpark,home , onKerala’s borderwithTamil h

(huts Rs500-1000) Treetop Machan Machan Treetop 7am-6pm) Forest InformationCentre Forest (

% Hornbill Inspection Bun- Hornbill Inspection (Indian/foreigner Rs10/100; 0485-2588302)

extends for285sq h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) withinthe (dm Rs900) at Koth-

(Indian/ tree tree in

are ineitherdirection atleasttwobuses be- 49km fromPalakkad) inTamil Nadu.There from Pollachi (40kmfromCoimbatore and the divisionalforests officer. is required fromthe residuum of Theresult theBritishRaj. isan built halfamillenniaagoandthecrumbling houses gogue, ancientmosques,Portuguese merchants, a16th-centurysyna- by Chinese ied colonialpast:giantfishing netsinfluenced years andremains alivinghomage toitsvar- luring wanderers andtraders forover 600 foot inlaid-back FortCochin. Kochi hasbeen tive breathed sigh bytravellers uponsetting youcanhearthecollec- If youlisten closely, % KOCHI (COCHIN) CENTRAL KERALA amalai daily(Rs15,1½hours). Pollachitween andParambikulam viaAn- hut davu, ThellikkalandAnappady,a treks canalsobeorganised fromhere. toursjeep (Rs750)are available andshort ( ing Ernakulam toWillingdon Islandandthe All are linked byferry, with bridges connect- Islands, northof FortCochin. and on thesouthernpeninsula; andVypeen in theharbour;Fort Cochin andMattancherry the islandsof Willingdon,BolgattyandGundu peninsulas, includingmainlandErnakulam; Kochi ismadeupof of agaggle islands and Orientation the streets. with more goatsthanrickshawspatrolling serene –thickwiththesmellof thepastand and Mattancherry, are however, wonderfully roost. Thehistoricaltownsof Fort Cochin andupmarketneon lights chainstores rulethe heartofhub andcosmopolitan Kerala, where est heritage accommodationinIndia. artgalleriesandnapinsomeofperuse thefin- place tospendsometime,soakinthehistory, the tropicalMalabar Coast.It’sadelightful and anEnglish countryvillage grafted onto unlikely blendof ,Holland medieval % The best access to the sanctuary isbybus The bestaccesstothesanctuary For entry to the sanctuary, permissionFor entrytothesanctuary, Mainland Ernakulamisthehectictransport There are Forest at RestHouses 0484 /pop1.36million (d Rs1000) 04253-244500) at

atThunakadavu. Three-hour Thunakadavu; bookthrough divisional forests officer divisional forests lonelyplanet.com

Thunaka- tree-top tree-top KERALA Fort 1003 hara Rd ambit (Map Par Perumanoor Station 1 Thrissur (74km) Ernakulam Junction To Airport (30km); To 6 2369302; 2369302; 2 (56km) Hospital Rd

Rd Alleppey To % G

M 4 (Map p1008 ) p1008 (Map

2374205; MG Rd;

7.30-12.30am)

l

l

a H

9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to

2215438; per hr Rs 30; 2215438; per hr r

(Map p1008 ; Carrier Station p1008 (Map %

h

a b

2383317; Shanmugh Rd); r

Broadway

d u h

9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm

R

D p (p1008) p % Station

2812530; KB Jacob Rd) a

% e (Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map v

Ernakulam A M 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun); 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm rk

a Island h d P Ernakulam Town

% R 00 1.0 miles 2 km Willingdon

Base

Navy (Map p1004 ; Post Office Rd, Fort p1004 (Map

i j

h r

( e

(Map p1003 ; n

a B 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) (Map p1008 ); p1008 (Map 2355467;

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map See Ernakulam Ernakulam See (Map p1008 ; Convent Rd, Ernakulam; per hr Rs p1008 (Map d (Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map R m 9am-9pm)

h a gh B2 C2

% u m Cochin

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map an

MG Rd h

S 5

Bristow Rd 7 8 G

I R 8.30am-10.30pm) Fast computers and AC comfort, computers at Fast 8.30am-10.30pm) d 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) h Harbour Station 9pm Sat) Convent Rd, Ernakulam; Rd, Ernakulam; per hr Rs 20; p1008 ; Sun); the back of a Shop-n-Save. h Ernakulam POST College post office Ernakulam post office branches Main post office Cochin; Net Park 15; Open Door Internet Café Sify iWay MONEY Rd in along MG ATMs of scores are There in Fort Cochin. Ernakulam, and a few Thomas Cook h Exchange UAE Cochin 8 Island 3 Bolgatty 7

Rd y) Lake tt Je 9.30am- 2217075;

Vembanad t a o B

10am-6pm) (

h r % p (p1004) p a za Jet Airways...... (see 1) TRANSPORT Air India...... (see 4) a Embarkation Jetty...... Kingfisher Airlines...... (see 4) Terminus Jetty......

h B Island

Mattancherry y Ma y Vallarpadam C2 D3 D3 C2 D3 3231590; 1 2 3 4 5 6 %

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map Mattancherr 2391295; Banerji Rd, Ernakulam; ; Bastion St, Fort Cochin; per % Fort Cochin CENTRAL KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) To Ayur Dara (2km); Ayur To Beach (22km); Fort Cochin (5km);

Fort Cochin & Cochin Fort ’s Village (25km) Village Fisherman’s Resort (22km);

(Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map See See 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun); 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm (Map p1004 (Map 9am-10.30pm) Comfortable, fast, drinks (Map p1004 ; opp boat jetty; p1004 (Map h (Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map h Island Vypeen

Casino Hotel...... Sports...... Indoworld...... Thomas Cook...... Chitram Art Gallery...... HDFC ATM...... D3 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) A typically great Sun) A typically great 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm

KOCHI (COCHIN) h English-language selection. INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS de Net Café Idiom Bookshop DC Books Current Books Information Information BOOKSHOPS the historical sites and most of the better-value the better-value and most of sites the historical accommodation. gatty, Vallarpadam and Vypeen and Islands. The gatty, Vallarpadam main train station, the bus stand and KTDC in Ernakulam, CentreTourist Reception are all have and Mattancherry while Fort Cochin Fort Cochin/Mattancherry peninsula; the new peninsula; the Fort Cochin/Mattancherry with Bol- Ernakulam links bridge Goshree lonelyplanet.com hr Rs 30; served. 7.30pm Mon-Sat) A branch of DC Books and of the same 7.30pm Mon-Sat) A branch of DC quality. Top range of good-quality new and used books. Top range of good-quality new Bastion St; Mattancherry KERALA 1004 0 300 m FORT COCHIN & MATTANCHERRY 0 0.2 miles

To Vypeen Cochin&Mattancherry CENTRAL KERALA••Fort Island (300m) To Ernakulam (2km)

Coast 52 3 Guard 56 54 y) Rd 26 Calvath River ( 15 12 42 53 44 h t 50 9 47 a Jetty 10 p 25

m d 34 a t To t we R R S S r R d e s s 45 s 33 o e d 8 R c r R

40 in e 43 r h b Hospital g 38 P r t o 23 1 u S c 5 B a St Peter & J Paul Church 29 37 B d K Fo emet R 6 49 Bas N rt C er tion ag r d y h Peter St 11 a h R rc F c u Celli St os t h 51 7 se u 14 C Parade St D 22 48 P Grounds t 35 de S Kunnumpuram B t G d a ro s z S un R a 16 d R o Junction a d e r r i r c 13 Rd e 32 i 28 u am (B i f ur f p o p 36 Q 2 a a St m New t O u 4 Rd J N ly K n e t L n t s B t Li ern 31 u y 24 o ard K ) P E Rd R lphinst t Fort d one S Residale Br Cochin anch w Rd Rd A Ne 39 m 19 r a 46 v 18 17 a t Mattancherry h

i

R

d

Rd alam T irattap o Ch w

Temple n

H

a d

l

R l

R d

m d R a l

a b

t o a Azad t Moular B c a Rd e a a P J c h B

K R M d

o

u

l 20

a

n

a 27 lonelyplanet.com Palace Rd Palace Rd A 41 55

z Jew

a

d Town

J

R e 21 w

d

T ESI o Hospital w n

R d To Olavipe 30 Homestay (28km) KERALA

B1 B2 C1 B2 D1 B1 B1 F4 B1 B2 C1 B1 D3 1005 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 (Map (Map p1004 ; Mattancherry

9am-1pm & 2-6pm 2226085; Bazaar Rd; h Santa Cruz Basilica % (Map p1004 ) was con- p1004 (Map (Map p1004 ), conse- p1004 (Map Talk of the Town...... B2 ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT Customs Jetty...... Fort Cochin Bus Stand...... Jetty (Ferry to Vypeen Island).... Mattancherry Jetty...... Tourist Taxi Stand...... Vasco Tourist Information B1 38) Centre...... (see Fishmongers...... 26) Restaurant...... (see History Kashi Art Café...... 32) Malabar Junction...... (see New Ananda Bhavan...... Old Courtyard...... Ramathula Hotel...... Salt 'n' Pepper...... 15) Solar Café...... (see Teapot...... Kerala Kathakali Centre...... Cinnamon...... 56) Kairali...... (see B2 A2 B2 B2 B3 F4 E3 F4 F4 B2 B2 A2 C1 C1 F4 B2 B2 B4 B2 A2 B1 B1 Indo-Portuguese Museum St Francis Church Dutch Cemetery 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 (Dutch Palace; Map p1004 ; p1004 Map (Dutch Palace; , in the garden of the Bishop’s House,, in the garden of

215400; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/25; 215400; Indian/foreigner The The The imposing Catholic Said to be India’s oldest European-built Said to be India’s oldest European-built to 1902. Inside you’ll find artefacts from the to 1902. Inside you’ll find artefacts and a striking, pastel- eras in Cochin different interior. coloured PALACE MATTANCHERRY Portuguese in 1555, Built by the Palace % Catholic communities, including vestments, processional crosses and altarpiecessilver from diocese. The basementthe Cochin contains the Portuguese Fort Immanuel. of remnants in 1724, contains the worn and di- crated and soldiers; traders Dutch of graves lapidated if you want to have ask at St Francis Church a look around. ) was originally built on this site p1004 (Map building dates in 1506, though the current church, in 1503 by Portuguesestructed Franciscan original wooden struc- The church’s friars. in stone around the mid-16th was rebuilt ture who died in Cochin da Gama, Vasco century. in 1524, was buried on this spot for 14 years to Lisbon; you taken were his remains before can still visit his tombstone in the church. Tue-Sun) preserves the heritage of one of India’s earliest preserves one of of the heritage Fort

8am- h 2353234); SLEEPING EATING Walton's Homestay...... B2 Raintree Lodge...... Spencer Home...... Spice Holidays Homestay...... Vasco Homestay...... Vintage Inn...... Caza Maria...... Lila Studio...... Palace...... Mattancherry Pardesi Synagogue...... Santa Cruz Basilica...... St Francis Church...... Ann's Residency...... Ballard Bungalow...... Brunton Boatyard...... Caza Maria...... Delight Home Stay...... Elite Hotel...... Green Woods Bethlehem...... Kapithan Inn...... Malabar House...... Oy's Homestay...... Princess Inn...... (Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map Ernakulam

% D1 A2 A3 F3 B1 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 C2 F1 C2 B2 B2 B2 B1 (Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 (Map p1004 ) A private p1004 (Map (Map p1008 ; p1008 (Map 2215055) CENTRAL KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) % Fort Cochin 2371761; [email protected]; Ernakulam

% 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) A huge h

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map 2668352; [email protected]; Willingdon 8.30am-6pm); 2353234; Shanmugham Rd, Ernakulam;

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Draavidia Art & Performance Tourist Desk Information Government of India Tourist Government of Indo-Portuguese Museum...... Kashi Art Gallery...... Gallery...... Dutch Cemetery...... ...... Cochin Ayurvedic Centre...... Cook & Eat...... Bishop's House...... (see 17) Bishop's House...... (see Tourist Police...... UAE Exchange...... B2 State Bank of India ATM...... Counter...... Main Post Office...... 29) Sify iWay...... (see ATM...... South India Bank ICICI ATM...... Idiom Bookshop...... 29) Indoworld...... (see Office...... Café de Net...... Café de Federal Bank ATM...... range of brochures and maps of India. and maps of India. range of brochures % Island; and less profitable. and less mainly used mod- Unfortunately, at high tide. making the nets less are techniques ern fishing

The tip of Fort Cochin is strung with the un- Cochin Fort The tip of can- backwaters: Kerala’s emblem of official ). p1004 Chinese nets (Map fishing tilevered Kubla from the court of traders legacy of A Khan 1400s, these in around the enormous, least four at contraptions require spider-like the counterweights – they’re men to operate (Map ; p1008 h in Ernakulam jetty agency at the main ferry that is very ledgeable about Kochi and beyond. know Sights FORT COCHIN Tourist police 7pm) Organises tours. Tourist Desk Information Counter KTDC Tourist Reception Centre KTDC Tourist Reception Centre Government of India Tourist Office that includes a passable map and entitled ‘Historical Places in Fort Cochin’. % There’s a tourist information counter at the tourist information counter a There’s a brochure places distribute airport. Many TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION lonelyplanet.com Cochin KERALA pieces bybothwell-knownandemergingIndian artists. Ernakulam; % Gallery &Performance Draavidia Art Gallery Chitram Art rary localartists. Kochi isaleaderinencouraging contempo- ART GALLERIES names onsomeof thebuildings. than pungent spices.LookoutfortheJewish with antiqueandtouristcurioshops rather the Dutch Palace andthesynagogueare filled cloves. around days,thelanesright These of ginger, cardamom,cumin,turmericand and theairisfilledwithbitingaromas huddle together inold,dilapidated buildings the Kochi spicetrade. Scores of smallfirms of accordingtoOrthodoxseparately rites. upstairs balconyforwomenwhoworshipped ful clocktowerwasbuiltin1760.There isan deliers andcoloured-glass lamps.Thegrace- China. It’smagnificentlyilluminated bychan- hand-painted, willow-pattern floortilesfrom Kochi. Itfeatures anornate goldpulpitand and rebuilt twoyears later whentheDutch took holidays) admission Rs2; Originally builtin1568,the PARDESI SYNAGOGUE&JEWTOWN foreplay happymilkmaids. witheight using hissixhandsandtwofeet toengage in chamber downstairs features acheerful Krishna room.Theladies’bed- ceilingsinevery carved ried carriages), bejewelledoutfitsandsplendidly impressive collectionof palanquins(hand-car- trait galleryof maharajas from1864.There’s an 1st floor,onceacoronationhall,isnowpor- Thecentralhallonthe ends inintricate detail. andPuranicleg- the , Hindu preserved alternative name,theDutch Palace. Dutch renovated the palace in1663,henceits a meansof tradingprivileges). securing The 61), asagesture of goodwill(andprobably as the raja of Cochin, Veera Kerala Varma (1537– admission Rs2; 1006 March at6pm. March forRs100from Novemberto classical music concerts inanairyupstairsgallery.Italsoholds artists by Keralan Jew Town Jew The synagogueissmackbanginthemiddle attractionshereThe star are theastonishingly Photography isprohibited. 3296812; BazaarRd; was destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662 in1662 wasdestroyedbythePortuguese ETA EAA • oh Cci) CENTRAL KERALA••Kochi(Cochin) h , abustlingportarea andcentre of h h 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)Hasafew excellent 10am-noon & 3-5pm Sun-Fri, closed Jewish closedJewish 10am-noon &3-5pmSun-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat-Thu) murals (Map (Map p1003 ; h 10am-6pm) Shows off art 10am-6pm) Showsoffart , depicting scenes from , depictingscenesfrom % synagogue waspresented to 2374012; MGRd, (Map (Map p1004 ; (Map p1004; (Map

[email protected]; QuirosSt;classRs400; Island (see Island (see p1014 ). necessary. Rs30).AppointmentVypeen Islandferry (autorickshaw it’s4kmfromthe practitioner, renowned Ayurvedic incl lunchRs1000/7000; VypeenIsland;1-/7-daytreatment Murikkumpadam, Recommended Ayurvedic massageandtreatment. Ayurvedic Recommended massage treatment fromRs500; Cochin; SantaCruzSchoolRd,Fort [email protected]; Kerala Ayurveda Chikitsa Kendram Chikitsa Ayurveda Kerala Centre Cochin Ayurvedic Dara Ayur AYURVEDA trip totheattractive 250). Hotel Casino Nonguests canswiminthegardenpoolof SWIMMING Activities Gamuz. painterandsculptorGayatri co-director, Studio Lila Gallery Art Kashi (Rs 650) at 8.30am, where you stop to see local (Rs 650)at 8.30am,where youstopto see times.Italsohas full-daybackwater trips same boat tours around FortCochin (Rs100)atthe (Rs 350)at8.30am and2.30pm,tourist more information. are theboxed provided. See text, p983 , for canals andvillages. Lunch andhotel pick-up thesmall through and lagoons,acanoe thewidercanals through on ahouseboat ter runsafull-daybackwater tour(Rs550) The private TouristDeskInformationCoun- Tours make-up (fromRs350perhour). lessons inclassicalKathakali dance,musicand for guests–askaround. alsoruncookingdemonstrations homestays & 6pm) called class Mrs Leelu recommendedRoy runs ahighly Courses Rd; Mattancherry; h rejuvenation massageRs500,steambath200; % artists, often experimental. often artists, The KTDC runs half-day backwater tours The KTDCrunshalf-day The h 9.30am-5.30pm) Full rangeoftreatments available. Lane,Ernakulam; 2376916; Kannanthodathu For adipintheocean,youcanmake aday inagreat bigfamilykitchen. Several 10am-6pm Mon-Sat)Mostlyshowingworksby Kerala Kerala Centre Kathakali ( (Map (Map p1004 ; www.anandagaya.com; Bazaar % h

(Map (Map p1003 ; WillingtonIsland;perpersonRs Cook &Eat 2502362; www.ayurdara.de; 10am-6pm) Changingexhibitions,local (Map (Map p1004 ; h (Map (Map p1004 ; Cherai beach 9am-5pm) Runbyaworld-

Mp p1004; (Map h % 9am-7pm) (see (see p1012 ) has 215769; BazaarRd, lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map p1008 ; % on Vypeen onVypeen % 2217103; h 2215377; 11am KERALA 1007 This You’ll 2381238; 2215309; 2215309; % % 2355156; Cannon 2218024; www 2361661; www.bijus This place has ) % % 2215049; spencerhom 2376508; Kalathipara- % Rooms here are are Rooms here a % % 2215064; www.vintage (Map p1008 ;

2215733; elitejoy@yahoo Close to the main boat (Map p1004 ; % % (Map (Map p1008 ;

(Map p1004 ; (Map p1008 ;

) Away from the action, with clean, (Map p1004 ; (Map p1008 ;

a A friendly homestay that has 11 ) (Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map (Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map a A friendly, ever-popular choice, handy choice, A friendly, ever-popular ) a Maple Tourist Home You can also try: You can also Ann’s Residency Sapphire Tourist Home Bijus Tourist Home Spencer Home .com; Princess An old-school St; s Rs 350, d Rs 400-800) backpacker favourite, OK value barely the plain rooms are these days. 1850-2300; touristhome.com; Market from Rs 325/420, d with AC Rs Rd; s/d 800; smart, simple for the main jetty. Rooms are and comfy, and the place is efficiently run MIDRANGE Fort Cochin Walton’s Homestay [email protected]; St; r Rs 800-1000) garden out lush with blue trim, a all white the back and a second-hand down- bookshop a big garden cottage stairs. They also have (Rs 1500 to 1800). with AC Post Office.annsresidency.com; Rd; r Rs 1000-1850, with AC Rs Piazza Residency tolerable wooden sizes and have variety of furniture. Cannon Shed Rd; d Rs 275-325) brightjetty, this place has cheerful, rooms – not bad value at this price. family (who look ready to adopt everyone to who (who look ready family cook enough throughwalks the door) often on dinner for everyone to join in. Breakfast is included and they rooftop their inviting hold cooking classes/demonstrations. often Elite Hotel Vintage Inn resorts.in;Residale Branch Rd; s Rs 300-500, d Rs 600-800, d with AC Rs 1200; bright digs. and roomy but unexciting Ernakulam varied and bright rooms, all with poster beds varied and bright rooms, all with poster an open-air res- and mosquito nets. There’s balcony views taurant and some rooms have classes next door. looking onto the school mbil Rd; s Rs 170-250, d Rs 240-370) [email protected]; Parade Ground Rd; d Rs 1200) Parade [email protected]; Shed Rd; d Rs 285-450, with AC Rs 680; carpeted and a little tattered, but come in a and a little tattered, carpeted solid-value rooms right near the boat stations.solid-value clean from a and sparkling still fresh Some are and all come with TV. refurbishment, be in good care with the affable Waltons as be in good care big and light rooms, your hosts. They have

A 3247791; 2216650; Oy’s has % % The long- KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) CENTRAL 2216267; vascoinfor 2217073; princessinnfo % 2215798; oyshomestay@ (Map p1004 ; (Map p1004 ;

% % This excellent option is ) (Map p1004 ;

a Ernakulathappan Utsavam festival Ernakulathappan Utsavam festival (Map p1004 ;

(Map p1004 ;

Green Woods Bethlehem Vasco Homestay Vasco Spice Holidays Homestay

Princess Inn bird’s eye-to-eye views of the treetops. The the treetops. bird’s eye-to-eye views of Fort Cochin. There are a few humble, but humble, but a few are There Fort Cochin. ones with cosy, rooms, top-floor extremely in a residential area enclosed in its own, thick area in a residential south of plants and palms, 1½km jungle of simple decorations and bay windows looking onto St Francis church. ner room is sensational value: it’s enormous, beds with mosquito netting, a few has poster elegant Portuguese thought mansion, to be da Gama died. Its cor- Vasco the house where timer has just two subdivided rooms in an The friendly owners here more than make up than make more here The friendly owners lack window real for the plain rooms, which The courtyard and welcoming sitting estate. is a plus. area can do: sprucing up what would otherwise be brightdull, small rooms with cheery colours, comfy communal spaces and spotless bath- value. rooms. Great [email protected]; Princess St; s Rs 250, d Rs 350-550) paint lick of what a fresh shining example of cheery to small, dark and dreary. to cheery yahoo.com; Burgher St; s Rs 150-400, d Rs 250-500) and funky rooms. They eclectic of a warren run the whole gamut from big, bright and Fort Cochin Fort Cochin Homestay Oy’s BUDGET BUDGET coming rarer each season. each Ernakulam is buzz- coming rarer for onward travel, convenient ing, and more Book wellbut accommodation is uninspiring. and January. ahead during December romantic, with superior accommodation accommodation romantic, with superior be- however, rooms, are Budget-priced choices. Fort Cochin is a great place to escape the noise is a great Fort Cochin the mainland – it’s tranquil and of and chaos elephants, ecstatic music and fireworks. elephants, ecstatic music and fireworks. Sleeping The eight-day 15 decorated procession of in a culminates weaving factories, spice gardens and most and most spice gardens factories, weaving importantly (palm beer) toddy tapping! Events Festivals & Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book [email protected]; 400-700) Rose St; d Rs [email protected]; opp ESI Hospital; r Rs 400- [email protected]; 800, with AC Rs 1000; [email protected]; Burgher St; s/d from Rs 350/500) KERALA 1008 Island (3.5km) To Vypeen Island (500m) To Bolgatty ERNAKULAM (3.5km) To FortCochin 39 Vypeen Island(4km) Island (2km); To Willingdon

43 ETA EAA • raua CENTRAL KERALA••Ernakulam

S

h M

a

n

a

m

r

i

n u

e g

h

W a

m

a

l k

R d Broadway Mat 36 ha 11 i Ma njoo 4 J ran e Rd w

S M a

15 r k

Children's e t t Vembanad

R d Lake 26 Park 3 8 Market Area 12 P

re B

a 42 s

n Subhash s

e

Park C r

j

16 l u i

b R

G

d 29

P R o O

a

r

k p d A

v a l e 2 d l C 23 a R R a d P Pharmacy a n Madhava

Junction Hospital General 20 r

n 17 i a l

w o b

n a

h y

u S

D h S

G e t u d a

o

r t

b i

v

33 o

F R

o a t

r d n e

r T Kacheripady G

s

h

P

R

o 40 R d r H

Junction 9

e r

5

28 d e R a 1 d 32 s M V

l 13 C l s e

u o

R R e

C l n k

h d d l

Junction

P a

v

T s

Padma U R s 6

u s h e h a s

Rd d n a

r e

t n

c r N

27 L A

h a y

y a

a R H

m

D H Stadium L m

e

w C d

a

L n

o R s R

R R a R a J

d s a d a n n d d p j c d a a

i Junction Shenoys

t o

i d j

i

n a C

b h

i t

t C l u b

o R d

l o r g

R R R d

W R

d d

R a

M

r 0.3miles 500m 0 0 r

d a i

h

a

a

m d t

m Ernakulam

a

R

G d

a

n

d

h

i Station ( M

G Town

)

18 R d 7 14 Junction

A P 30

Jos m u To Alleppey 37 l Pallimukku 24 m l e M Junction (62km) a p

a n a

N h C d

h a k

25 e

i y

t o t k

t 38 o

t o a v

A r

R

i v R i p

M d i l d

a G R

d K

a

d Edapally (10km);Chottanikkara r R T i

a 31 k 19

R K Airport (30km);Parur(35km); k d

h To KaloorBusStand(600m);

m a

d a S o m Chennamangalam (43km);

r

o u B m i

R r (16km); Aluva(21km); k a

u r

i a d k R lonelyplanet.com t d d h s a

g t Thrissur (74km)

10 C a

Ka r e r

i e

O r

R 35 S To Kottayam(60km);

t 41

a Trivandrum (220km) t

R i

v o d la n

d e t R

h d

Kottayam (72km) r

Museum (12km);

R

K

i d

p a l

a

34 t

a h

i

p

r a To HillPalace

r a a 21

m

m b i l Ernakulam b Junction 22

i Station

l

L

C

a

a r a

v

a r a

R d KERALA D6 A3 C6 D6 A2 C6 D4 B5 A2 B4 C5 D5 C2 C4 1009 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 Right 2377040; www 2378240; www % % 2378251; www.hotel 2216666; www.mala % % 2225678; cazamaria@rediffmail

(Map p1008 ; (Map p1008 ;

% ) Right near the station, this (Map p1008 ;

It feels a little like a hospital a little like It feels ) a (Map p1004 ; See India Foundation...... D6 ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT KSRTC Bus Stand...... Main Jetty...... Private Ferry...... Indian Coffee House...... Indian Coffee House...... Indian Coffee Pizza Hut...... Spencer's Daily...... Spices Food Joint...... Art Kerala...... Shenoy Cinema...... Kairali...... Bus to Fort Cochin...... High Court Jetty...... Indian Airlines...... Even though all that glitters is thoughglitters all that Even If you have money to burn, let If you have

) ) a C2 C3 B4 C6 D6 B4 D5 D5 B4 C5 D6 B4 (Map p1004 ;

ai 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 as Paulson Park Hotel Park Paulson Yuvarani ResidencyYuvarani Hotel Excellency TOP END TOP END Fort Cochin Malabar House Ground Rd; r €175, ste €250-300, incl barhouse.com; Parade breakfast; .yuvaraniresidency.com; MG Rd; s/d from Rs 850/1000, with AC .yuvaraniresidency.com; Rs 1250/1600; fortable and finished with all the stylish dark- It’s set your heart might desire. wood fixtures back from MG Rd enough to shield the noise, in town. choice making it the best midrange Town & Jew Mattancherry Caza Maria .com; Jew Rs 1600 & 1900) Town Rd; r with breakfast .paulsonparkhotel.com; Carrier Station Rd; s/d from Rs 500/800, with AC Rs 900/1200; boasts a fantasy-spick-and-span, quiet place indoor garden (was that a unicorn?). inspired minimalist, but the rooms are The cheaper enough just decoration pricier rooms have welcoming. them feel to make excellency.com; Nettipadam Rd; s/d from Rs 600/700, with AC Rs 900/1000; tidy. Look at a few neat and very but rooms are than others. bigger rooms; some are this be your pyre. What may just be the best this be your pyre. flaunts its in India, Malabar boutique hotel not gold here, the rooms are perfectly com- perfectly the rooms are not gold here, in the heart of Jew Town, this place has just Jew in the heart of gigantic rooms two magnificently decorated, it Fit for a maharaja, the bazaar. overlooking has idiosyncratic style. definitely 2217658; www KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) CENTRAL Restaurant...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS SLEEPING EATING Frys Village Indian Coffee House...... Kerala Ayurveda Chikitsa Kerala Ayurveda 34) Kendram...... (see Bijus Tourist Home...... Hotel Aiswarya...... Hotel Excellency...... Maple Tourist Home...... Paulson Park Hotel...... Piazza Residency...... Home...... Sapphire Tourist Yuvarani Residency...... Chinese Garden...... 23) City Park Restaurant...... (see Coffee Beanz...... The intimate The intimate 3251498; www.fort ) % 2215854; www 2364454; Warriam Rd; A3 B4 C5 C6 B4 B5 C4 B4 B2 A3 C2 C4 B4 C4 D5 ) Top marks for its % a % 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 % 2226560; www.kap 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 a % (Map ; p1004

(Map p1004 ;

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map (Map p1008 ;

Delightful it is. There are many are Delightful it is. There ) (Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map ) A gorgeous colonial building with airy, a ) Quiet and pleasant, with bright, rooms. restful a ai Also recommended: Raintree Lodge Hotel Aiswarya Delight Home Stay INFORMATION Tourist Desk Information Idbi Bank ATM...... C3 Tourist Police...... (see 8) Tourist Police...... (see 4) UAE Exchange...... (see State Bank of India ATM...... Counter...... Post Office...... Post Office...... Open Door Internet Café...... Open Door Internet Penta Menaka Building...... Post Office...... ING Bank ATM...... Centre.. KTDC Tourist Reception Net Park...... Federal Bank ATM...... (see 7) Federal Bank ATM...... (see HDFC Bank ATM...... DC Books...... Federal Bank ATM...... College Post Office...... College Current Books...... Ernakulam Ernakulam spacious rooms. Pricespacious rooms. includes breakfast. ithaninn.com; s/d from Rs 600/750, cottages Rs 1800- 3000; central location and a respectable score its for score central location and a respectable clean, bright This is a fair midrange rooms. choice. s/d Rs 400/600, d with AC Rs 900; Respectable midrange options in Ernakulam options in Respectable midrange and far between. few are .cochinballard.com; River AC Rs Rd; d Rs 1200, with 2200; Ballard Bungalow Kapithan Inn and comfortable rooms have an agreeable an agreeable and comfortable rooms have and ends. modern and period odds blend of room with a balcony an upstairs Try to get looking onto the quiet street. to-wall polished teak. Keralan cooking classes teak. Keralan to-wall polished held here. are white woodwork all around, a trim garden white in wall- and an imposing sitting room covered uniquely styled rooms, all beautifully remod- frilly There’s alluring. elled and immediately .delightfulhomestay.com; Post Office Rd; r Rs 1200-1500, with AC Rs 2500; Check out the amazingly intricate gold an- intricate Check out the amazingly the doors. tique lock on one of rooms around a quiet garden courtyard – garden courtyard – rooms around a quiet Chinese . with huge complete handsomely restored heritage home has snug heritage handsomely restored Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book cochin.com; Peter Celli St; r Rs 1800; cochin.com; Peter KERALA vidia Gallery ( p1006 upbreakfast and ) serves h (Rs 50)istrulycoco homicide,trustus. glasstable.tree–based Thedeathbychocolate old tea chests and agnarled,tea fortables rooms. Wittyaccentsincludeantique teapots, inchic minimalist, airy and fullmealsserved tea, with qualityteas, sandwichesfor high Rs 150) the urge tosplurge. genuinely interesting food onoffer you’llget modation onasingledish, butwithsome In accom- some placesyoucanblowanight’s FORT COCHIN pensive ones(Rs80to165). inthelicensed of theFortCochin restaurants, andmore ex- Covert beer consumption is Eating &Drinking is Rs600to700. to/fromFortCochinplant pollination.Ataxi help outwiththeworkingshrimp farmor villages fromhere, theirpaddleboat,or use than aguest.Youcanvisitnearbybackwater make youfeel like awelcomefriendrather family history,andthegraciousowners will a fascinatingarchive withsixgenerations of are lotsof shadyawningsandsittingareas, décor (onlytheceilingfansare new).There all wonderfullyfinished withoriginalperiod largeteak, ithasseveral andbreezy rooms– stored mansionof andglistening rosewood by backwaters, 28kmsouthof Cochin. A re- home isona16-hectare farmsurrounded gorgeous 1890straditionalSyrian-Christian .olavipe.com; Olavipe;s/dinclmealsRs5000/6500) o Around Cochin restaurants andabar;breakfast isincluded. breeze that’sbetter thanAC.sea There are two have bathtubandbalconieswitharefreshing smallish roomslookoutover theharbour,and tecture inagrand26-roomcomplex.Allof the archi-and 17th-centuryDutch andPortuguese This imposinghotel faithfullyreproduces 16th- Rd;rUS$275,steUS$385; River [email protected]; more roomscoulduse standard space. huge andlavishly appointed,the although fittings like trying.Thesuites it’snoteven are uber-hip blendof moderncolours andperiod 1010 Solar Café Teapot Brunton Boatyard 10am-6pm) Thisstylish hauntistheperfect venue ETA EAA • oh Cci) CENTRAL KERALA••Kochi(Cochin) Olavipe Homestay

(Map (Map p1004 ; Peter CelliSt;snacksRs30-50,meals Thisarty andfunkycaféat Draa-

(Map (Map p1004 ; BazaarRd;mealsRs30-75;

(Map p1004 ; p1004 (Map

( % de rigueur de rigueur % 0478-2522255; www 2215461; brunton at most at most This as

) New AnandaBhavan (Rs 1200)orglass (Rs250). Indian)winebythebottle (quaffable, Estate European-stylemenuandGrover’sbased, ismovie-starHouse cool.There’s aseafood- pavilion, thisclassyrestaurant atMalabar Ground Rd;mainsRs300-1000) (Rs150)get ourvote.mussels cuted (Rs250)andbaked –Spanish-style beef internationalthoughtful menuiswellexe- mains fromRs160) off localartists. for Rs5perlitre, andasmallgalleryshows are excellent.Youcanfillplasticwater bottles daily Western breakfast andlunch specials coffee isasstrongitshould be,andthe The vibe, alongwithhip-but-casual service. institution, thisplacehasahip-but-casual lunch Rs70/75; pared Indiandishes whippeduphere. don’t missoutonthecheap andexpertlypre- St; mealsRs30-120) looking thehubbubof thestreet below. over-ting. Ithassomeupstairs veranda seats lunch coloured inabrightly andfriendlyset- are deservedly popular.are deservedly 18 to35), aswellfish-curry meals(Rs15), The cheap veg, chicken andmeat biryanis(Rs restaurant bythe gregarious captained Sherief. 35; Spices Food Joint ERNAKULAM you (aboutRs40perkilogramof fish). itto a shackwhere theywillcookitandserve scampi, lobster), to thentake yourselection from whomyoucanbuyfish (orprawns, of fishingnetsare theChinese acouple Behind Restaurant History Salt ’n tipple (Rs80). tables bustlenightlywithpuntershavingaspecial-teapot h spotless veggierestaurant. abeelineforthisbasicbut 11-35) Herbivores: make Jewish, Syrian, Arabic and Portuguese history. ArabicandPortuguese Syrian, Jewish, menutracingKochi’s historical restaurant hasamarvellous Rd; mainsRs350-425)AttheBruntonBoatyard,this Malabar Junction Malabar Old Courtyard Café Art Kashi Talk oftheTown Also recommended: h fishmongers 24 hr)Superblyaveragefood,butthestreet-side ’ 5am-12pm) Pepper Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h (Map (Map p1004 ; TowerRd;dishesRs35-120; (Map (Map p1004 Rs 50-300) ; seafoodperkg Afamily-runhole-in-the-wall Seafood (Map (Map p1008 ; CannonShedRd; dishesRs7-

Upstairs, casualandbreezy, Mp p1004; (Map 8.30am-7pm) Mp p1004; (Map (Map (Map p1004 ; cnrKBJacobsRd&Bastion

(Map (Map p1004 ; (Map (Map p1004 ; (Map (Map p1004 Rd;dishesRs ; River

focused Set inanopen-sided Set % Somethingof an Burgher St;breakfast/ % % 2216302; Princess St; 2216302; Princess , 2215461; River 2215461; River the smallbut 2216666; Parade , KERALA 1011 . The . The . Run by a Run by a kalari This place is leg- This place is theyyam 2225678; Boat Jetty Rd; Rs 140). Service is % lunch & dinner) h lunch & dinner)

(Map p1004 ; Lobo Junction, Mattancherry; p1004 (Map (Map p1008 ; Shanmugham Rd, Ernakulam; p1008 (Map

(Map p1004 ; h

Screens films in Malayalam, Hindi, films in Malayalam, Screens Caza Maria poisson à la Provençale, poisson Entertainment Entertainment CINEMAS Shenoy Cinema tickets Rs 40) and English. Tamil KATHAKALI you several where places in Kochi are There ). below text, (seecan view Kathakali the boxed MATTANCHERRY & JEW TOWN & JEW TOWN MATTANCHERRY Ramathula Hotel biryani Rs 22-38; and meat locals for its chicken endary among out. It’s early or you’ll miss here biryanis – get name, Kayee. the chef’s known by better mains from Rs 100-200; space with an enchanting this is Frenchman, a good music but slightly bland food. There’s dishes French Indian and a few small menu of ( and the ambience delightful. great lunch h and crab and crab ; Veekshanam ; Veekshanam This cafete- This 7.30am-10.30pm) (hand gestures) and facial expressions. Traditionally, performances Traditionally, and facial expressions. (hand gestures)

h (traditional Sanksrit drama), and in ritual arts such as called Gurukkal, teach their craft inside a special arena called a called Gurukkal, arena their craft inside a special teach (Map p1008 p1008 (Map

pollichathu (Cannon Shed Rd; dishes Rs 60- (Cannon Shed Rd;

lunch & dinner) lunch & ) For a hip coffee hit. ) For a hip coffee (Cannon Shed Rd) Also has movements – the foundation of choreography that uses the actors’ bodies and that uses the actors’ bodies and – the foundation of choreography movements h kootiattam (WarriomRs 75-150; Rd; dishes CENTRAL KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) kalarippayat, a is an ancient tradition of martial training and discipline. Still taught throughout is an ancient tradition of martial taught throughout Still discipline. training and (Veekshanam Rd; (Shanmugham Rd; breakfasts Rs 20-60; Rs 20-60; (Shanmugham Rd; breakfasts Restaurant

(Durbar Hall Rd; medium pizza Rs 90-120; (Durbar Hall Rd; medium pizza is part gymnasium, part Its construction school and part traditional principles: its follows temple. Good Chinese food served in a plush- Kalarippayat Masters of Masters Preparation for the performance is lengthy and disciplined. Paint, fantastic costumes, highly fantastic costumes, highly for the performancePreparation Paint, is lengthy and disciplined. Kathakali are and there performances the state, You’ll can see cut-down in tourist hot spots all over Drummers and singers accompany the actors, who tell the story through their precise move- precise the story through their Drummers and singers accompany the actors, who tell lunch & dinner) For when the junk-food cravings win. lunch & dinner) For when the junk-food lunch & dinner; kalari in each corner. represented and Hindu design is always aligned east–west deities are rectangular – can be traced in Kerala’s performing as the primary tools of expression gestures arts, such as Kathakali and Kerala, some believe it is the forerunner of all martial it is the forerunner arts.Kerala, Its roots can be traced back to the 12th some believe common. were in the region principalities century, when skirmishes among the many feudal Kalarippayat Kalarippayat Kalarippayat decorated headpieces and meditation transform the actors both physically and mentally into the headpieces and meditation transform the actors into the both physically and mentally decorated about to play. gods, heroes and demons they are Many temple ) that encourage visitors. p1017 (see and near Thrissur ) p966 schools in Trivandrum (see traditional all-night Kathakali feature shows; ask at DTPC offices. across the state festivals took place in temple grounds and went from 8pm until dawn; now shorter grounds and went from performancestook place in temple in also popular. other open-air locales, as well as indoor halls, are ments, particularly mudras TRADITIONAL KERALAN ARTS TRADITIONAL KERALAN ARTS Kathakali artThe form of Kathakali was scribbling his crystallised at around the same time as Shakespeare Kathakali The rituals. 2nd-century temple from performanceplays, though elements of it stem of a play, usually based on the Ramayana, epics is the dramatised presentation the and evil, frailty – righteousness covered themes are All the great Mahabharata and the . and prosperity, war and peace. and courage, poverty Other options: City Park Chinese Garden Frys Village Restaurant City Park has a well-prepared and varied and varied has a well-prepared City Park h Delivery is available. h Well-stocked supermarket. Pizza Hut Coffee Beanz Indian Coffee House Spencer’s Daily & dinner) moodily lit interior. red, masala tangy is especially tea (Rs 8). menu (Indian, Chinese,menu (Indian, continental). The seafood, as fish such Rs 65). roast (both ria-like family restaurant is the best place in in is the best place family restaurant ria-like food, especially Keralan town for authentic Rd; dishes Rs 15-70; Rd; dishes lonelyplanet.com branches on Jos Junction and MG Rd near Padma Junction.branches on Jos Junction and MG Rd near Padma 90) KERALA in FortCochin. dian clothesandhomewares. individually designedIn- high-quality, sells lam; Air India thefollowing airlines: through Book flights AIR Getting There& Away Cochin; % There’s amuch smallerKairali (Map p1004 ; emporium withqualityitems atfixed prices. handicraft shopsaroundhere, agovernment price) justfordroppingtouristsatthedoor. ting huge kickbacks (which are addedto your commission rackets, withrickshawdrivers get- Many shopsinFortCochin operate lucrative antiquesandreproductions.shops selling tancherry (Map p1004 ), there’s aplethoraof is thetextiles centre. OnJew TownRdinMat- Market Jew Rd,between andPress ClubRds, there’s a huddleof tailors, andonaround bazaar feel. AroundConvent andMarket Rds local shopping, spiceshops, clothinganda Broadway inErnakulam( p1008 ) isgoodfor Shopping 350 perhour)are alsoavailable. classical dance,musicandmake-up (from Rs in translations of story.Classes thenight’s performances. Itprovides printed useful 5pm, show6.30-8pm) Cochin; Rd,Fort River www.kathakalicentre.com; and provides aprintoutof story. thenight’s in 1977,thisplacestages rooftop performances Lane, Ernakulam; roots of Kathakali. emphasis onthereligious andphilosophical in Kerala, ithassmall-scaleshowswithan 6.30-8pm) Lane,Ernakulam; Kalathiparambil charge aroundRs125. dance andthentheperformance. Allplaces onthe plication, followedbyacommentary withtheintricategramme starts make-up ap- pro- this intriguingartform.Thestandard ists, butthey’re alsoagreat introductionto The performancesare madefortour- certainly 1012 1pm &1.45-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Cinnamon Kairali Kerala Art IndiaFoundation See Kerala Kathakali Centre Centre Kathakali Kerala 221544; River Rd; h h ETA EAA • oh Cci) CENTRAL KERALA••Kochi(Cochin) 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) (Map (Map p1003 ; Oneof theoldestKathakali

10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Mp p1008; (Map

Mp p1004; (Map Mp p1008; (Map h make-up 6pm,show7-8.15pm) make-up Thisplacestages big,showy % % 2351295; MG Rd; h % Thisisoneof many

% Mp p1008; (Map 2354507; MGRd,Ernaku- Thisexquisite shop

9am-7pm Mon-Sat) 2217124; Post Office Rd, Fort Rd,Fort 2217124; PostOffice Mp p1004; (Map 2375238; Kannanthodath 2375238; Kannanthodath h make-up 6pm,show make-up h % % h

theatres Started Started 9.30am- 2376471; 2215827; make-up make-up (Cannanore), Kasaragod andontoMangalore toKannur Calicut run upthecoastthrough fromErnakulam. information onbuses theboxedNadu. See text, below , formore toTamil windowforreservations a separate originatinghere.advance forbuses There’s uptofive daysin You canmake reservations have tojointhescrumwhenbuspullsin. Ernakulam originate inothercities–youmay Ammankovil Rd.Many passing through buses near thetrainstations, way, halfwaybetween vations 6am-10pm) The BUS of destinationsfornearly70%less. these Trivandrum (US$142).Kingfisherfliestomost to toGoa(US$172)anddailyflights a week prices,andalsohastwoflights ies forthesame cit- (US$126). IndianAirlinesfliesdailytothese (US$442),andtwodailytoBengaluru (US$239), onedailytoChennai(US$164)and toMumbai Jet Airwayshasthree dailyservices Airlines Kingfisher Airways Jet Indian Airlines (Rs 304). Rd; 7pm Mon-Sat,to4pmSun) dath Rd; In addition, two daily buses (6amand9pm) In addition,twodailybuses KSRTC busstand. operate fromtheThe followingbusservices MAJOR BUSESFROMERNAKULAM h uiy 7 5 6daily 5 every 5 127 Trivandrum 20min 40 Thrissur 73 2 2 167 Madurai 9 every (for Periyar) 2 daily Kumily daily Kottayam 38 2 15min 8 every Kollam 84 9 166 Kanyakumari 3½ daily 4½ Coimbatore 127 20min 2 every Chennai 425 6 15 Calicut 118 hourly 5 Bengaluru 304 14 daily daily Alleppey 33 20min 1½ (Rs) every Destination Fare Frequency Duration (hr) 20min KSRTC busstand KSRTC 9.45am-1pm &1.45-5pm) h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) (Map (Map p1003 ; (Map (Map p1008 ; isinErnakulam,alongtherail- (Map (Map p1003 ; (Map p1008; (Map

% % 2293231; MGRd; 2370235; DurbarHall % % lonelyplanet.com 2351144; Sreekan- 2372033; h h 9am- reser- KERALA 1013 Car to Vypeen cross and passenger ferries Ferries run every 20 minutes to Willing- run every 20 minutes Ferries 293/771/1082 12 7.10pm Cochin and , but it’s an Palace, and Mattancherry Cochin through walk enjoyable 30-minute the busy along Bazaar Rd. Autorick- area warehouse cost around Rs 20, but you’ll needshaws should to haggle. Most autorickshaw trips around Er- than Rs 25. nakulam shouldn’t cost more don and Vypeen (6am to 10pm) – Islands to Vypeenalthough these bridge with the new empty. often are Fort Cochin to Ernakulam run from Customs Jetty Ferries also run be- Ferries from 6.20am to 9.50pm. and tween Customs Jetty about 18 times a day from 6.40am to 9.30pm (Monday to Saturday). virtually nonstop Island from Fort Cochin from 6am until 10pm. LOCAL TRANSPORT bus services no real are There between Fort west one, opposite Mattancherry, is Termi- Mattancherry, opposite west one, stop at Fort and the main ); p1003 nus (Map ), with another p1004 (Map is Customs Cochin the syna- near Jetty stop at the Mattancherry all around are fares ). Ferry p1004 gogue (Map on board. tickets Rs 2.50; buy Ernakulam services are There every 40 to Fort Cochin from the main (4.40am to 9.30pm) minutes di- six ferries are ). There p1008 jetty (Map (5.55am Jetty to/from the Mattancherry rectly office in Ernakulam to 6.45pm). The ticket sailing. each before opens 10 minutes 261/705/1000 11 6.05pm 477/1313/1878 41 12.50pm Exp

Exp

8am-8pm

is at Ne- h ( 116/395** 10 11.15am 10 116/395** 190/505/716 10½ 11.50pm 10½ 190/505/716 Exp

589/1601//2282 48 3.50pm 48 589/1601//2282 2610113) Exp (Map (Map p1004 ); the

% (

Kanyakumari–Bangalore Mail Trivandrum–Chennai Kerala Exp Kerala Malabar Kanyakumari–Mumbai Parasuram reservations office . CENTRAL KERALA •• Kochi (Cochin) (Rs Sleeper/3AC/2AC) (hr) Destination Train No & Name Sleeper/3AC/2AC) Bengaluru 6525 (Rs Fare Duration Departures Chennai 2624 Delhi* 2625 Mangalore 6329 Mumbai 1082 6349 Parasuram * Departs from Ernakulam Junction chair in 2nd class/AC ** Fare MAJOR TRAINS FROM ERNAKULAM TRAINS FROM ERNAKULAM MAJOR major long-distance trains departing following are from Ernakulam Town. The There are a number of private bus compa- private of a number are There There are daily trains to Trivandrum (2nd daily trains to Trivandrum are There tweenthe mainland. The and Fort Cochin Willingdon Is- side of stop on the eastern land is called Embarkation BOAT BOAT transport be- form of the fastest are Ferries TO/FROM THE AIRPORT TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Kochi International Airport 57/281/402, five hours, seven daily) and Kannur seven hours, daily) and Kannur 57/281/402, five (Rs 75/361/518, seven seven hours, daily). For . below text, long-distance trains, see the boxed Getting Around daily), via either Alleppey (Rs 28/188/266, (Rs 28/188/266, daily), via either Alleppey or Kottayam (Rs 28/188/266, 1½ 1½ hours) Thrissur (Rs also trains to are There hours). 10 daily), Calicut30/188/266, two hours, (Rs nakulam Junction Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Town and Ernakulam Junction. ReservationsTown and Ernakulam Junction. to be made at the Er- for both stations have TRAIN TRAIN stations,Ernakulam has two train Ernakulam nakulam. The main private bus stand main private nakulam. The (the the city. bus stand) is north of than the government buses, and there are are buses, and there than the government Er- shops and stands all over selling tickets Coimbatore; prices are around 75% higher are prices Coimbatore; lonelyplanet.com nies that have super-deluxe, AC, video buses video AC, super-deluxe, have nies that and daily to Bengaluru, Mangalore Chennai, class/3AC/2AC Rs 60/335/470, 4½ hours, 13 Rs 60/335/470, 4½ hours, class/3AC/2AC dumbassery, 30km northeast of Ernakulam. dumbassery, 30km northeast of to Ernakulam cost around Rs 400, and Taxis Rs 550. around from Fort Cochin KERALA beachresorts.com; VypeenIsland;rRs1000-2500,withAC beachresorts.com; % regularly open lagoon-side wi-fi.100/300/300) and even (breakfast/lunch/dinnerdaily buffets Rs by walkways.There isarestaurant serving individually hammocked isletsconnected growing insideoneroom.Welove thetiny, outs ontothebackwaters –there’s atree even orlook- walls,split-levels with eithercurving signed usingnaturalmaterials, inconjunction on theother. Bungalows are individually de- with thebeach ononesideandbackwaters cottages liesaroundameanderinglagoon, 3500; resorts around. there are ahandfulof stylish butunobtrusive Kochi. tovisitonadaytripfrom enough it’s close of all, just 300mbackfromtheseashore. Best oped white withmilesof sand, lazybackwaters secret. It’sanenchanting stretch of undevel- Beach Cherai island,25kmfromFortCochin,On Vypeen Cherai Beach Rs 225return withone-hourwaitingtime. anautorickshawCentre; shouldcostaround Rd,behind theTouristReception mugham the bustoTripunithurafromMGRdorShan- ings, andtemple models.FromKochi, catch oil paintings,oldcoins,sculptures andpaint- of theroyalfamilies,aswell 19th-century thecollections palace complex.Itnowhouses royal familyandisanarresting, 49-building wasformerlytheresidencetayam, of theKochi 12km southeastof Ernakulamenroute toKot- h Palace Hill Museum Tripunithura AROUND KOCHI per day. Cochin) Fort around Rs150. toFortCochin shouldcost Town trainstation ifyouonlygooneway–Ernakulameven charge round-tripfares theislands, between Rd (Rs6),southof DurbarHall Rd.Taxis running, catch abusinErnakulamonMG 1014 For abudget option,you cantrytheir- formoreIf youplanonstaying thanaday, InformationCentre Vasco Tourist To get toFortCochin after ferries stop Cherai Beach Resort Cherai BeachResort 9am-12.30pm &2-4.30pmTue-Sun) 2216215; [email protected]; BastionSt,2216215; [email protected]; ai ETA EAA • rudKci CENTRAL KERALA••AroundKochi rents bicycles/scooters forRs45/200 ) This excellentcollectionof unique might justbeKochi’s best-kept might Fisherman’s Village

( % ( % 0484-2781113; admissionRs15; 0484-2481818; www.cherai atTripunithura,

(r Rs500-750; Mp p1004; (Map

cess St) plus guide).Italsohasan as wellMuslimandJewish 2.30pm Sun) On thewayyou’llpassa16th-century temple spot. Fromhere youcanalsowalktothe inthispartofused Kerala) wasprinted onthis first bookinTamil (thewritten language then Chennamangalam in1577andsoonafter the Jesuit college nearby.TheJesuits first arrived in to 1269.There’s a inscribed withtheHebrew date corresponding Just outsideistheoldesttombstoneinIndia, woodenark. ours andanintricately carved door andceilingwoodreliefs indazzlingcol- galam, around8kmfromParur. Ithasnotable derfully renovated andsitsin Chennaman- (Rs 2; 35km northof Kochi. Theoldest that isIndiamore apparent thaninParur, Nowhere wovenis thetightly religious cloth Parur &Chennamangalam the frequent (Rs10,onehour). buses from thejetty(aroundRs250)orcatch oneof Rs 1.50/3)andeitherhire anautorickshaw cle ferry Island(perperson/scooter toVypeen it wasbeingrehabilitated byaFrenchman. the beach here isrocky.Atthetimeof research neartheshore,has simplebungalowsright but h brash festivals aslong as atemple elephant’s cherry on thefestival cake. Withalist of celebrations, Thrissur remains thecultural While the rest of Kerala% hasitsfairshare of THRISSUR (TRICHUR) autorickshaw (Rs45)toChennamangalam. 10 minutes). FromParur catch abus(Rs3) or inKochi bus stand (Rs15,onehour, every Heera House,MGRd,Ernakulam; p1003; (Map galam isbestvisited withaguide. direction,in theright Chennaman- though fairytale-like appearance.houses’ well have gardengnomesjudgingbythe been byTamilsettled itmayas Brahmins,though packed coloured Itwas andbrightly houses. (place of Brahmins)–asmallstreet of closely In Parur town,you’llfindthe To get here fromFortCochin, catch avehi- For Parur, catch abusfromthe KSRTC Parur iscompactandlocalscanpointyou Nov-Mar) 0487 /pop330,067 h inFortCochin. onthehilloverlooking thePeriyar River. 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) canorganise tours (aroundRs600 % afew kilometres furthernorth.It 0484-2367818; www.indoworldtours.com; Jesuit church Jesuit inKerala won- hasbeen h office 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,to andtheruinsof a lonelyplanet.com burial grounds burial

Mp p04; Prin- p1004; (Map agraharam synagogue Indoworld mosque, Hindu .

KERALA B2 B3 A3 A4 B3 A3 C2 B3 B3 B2 B3 A4 B1 B4 B3 C1 B2 B3 B3 B4 C2 B4 C3 B1 B2 1015 9am- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 h Our Lady of D Vadakkunathan 2445668; TB Rd; 2445668; TB Rd; (Kuruppam Rd; per hr Rs 20; Rd; per hr Rs (Kuruppam % (

Indian Coffee House...... Indian Coffee House...... Navaratna Restaurant...... Pathans Hotel...... KSRTC Bus Stand...... Priyadarshini (North) Bus Stand... Bus Stand... HDFC ATM...... (see 19) Lava Rock Internet Café...... Paragon Web Inc...... UAE Money Exchange...... UTI ATM...... Archaeology Museum...... (see 10) Chaldean (Nestorian) Church...... Puttanpalli (New) Church...... Sakthan Thampuran Palace...... Temple...... Bini Tourist Home...... Hotel Elite International...... Hotel Luciya Palace...... Siddhartha Regency...... Hotel Akshaya Palace...... Hotel Sapphire...... India Gate...... Canara Bank...... DTPC Office...... Federal Bank ATM...... Ramanilayam Government Guest House...... C1 Vadakkunathan Kshetram INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT Museum Rd Museum crowns the hill at the epicen- (2nd fl, High15; Rd; per hr Rs 00 500 m 0.3 miles

mound surrounding the temple temple mound surrounding the State Museum

ὈὈ ὈὈ Cherur Rd Cherur Peechi (20km) To Our Lady of 15

Town Hall & Public Library Palace Rd Palace 8.30am-10.30pm) 8am-10.30pm) 9

Lourdes Cathedral (1km);

Town Hall Rd Hall Town Hospital

Stadium Rd Stadium 7 2

has sweeping views and is a popu- metropolis also a number are There lar spot to loiter. including inspiring churches, of Lava Rock InternetLava Rock Café h Web Inc Paragon Money Exchange UAE Sights & Activities the oldest in the state, One of Finished in classic Keralan Thrissur. of tre inside, allowed only Hindus are architecture, though the Kshetram Temple Kshetram Temple h 6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun) Next6.30pm Mon-Sat, to the Casino Hotel.

Temple 19 East Round

Medical College

St Thomas College Rd Paramekkavu High Rd High Trivandrum (302km) 5 10 8 To Sabarimala (272km);

Stadium Pattalam Rd Park

h 20 Tank t ce Rd 26 r Children's

o Municipal Offi

N 1

Karunakaran Nambiar Rd Nambiar Karunakaran

d n

11 u

25 o 17 B

12

23 R

10am-5pm Chembottil Lane (32km) To Kerala

21 TB Rd TB Kalamandalam 13

h South 3

Railway Station Rd Station Railway 4 Rd Kuruppam

ὈὈ ὈὈ Round West Round Round 6

Shoranur Rd 22 14 Rd Veliyannur Rd

Marar MG Rd MG Post 24 Office 18 16 •• Thrissur CENTRAL KERALA (Trichur)

2320800; Palace Rd; 2320800; Palace (33km); Sri Rd Masjid To Guruvayur Krishna Temple (Calicut; 143km) (33km); Kozhikode % AC ( To Irinjalakuda (20km); Natana Kairali Research Arts (20km); Ernakulam (74km) & Performing Centre for Traditional Train Station THRISSUR (TRICHUR) 2 3 1 4 DTPC office There’s HDFC, UTI and Federal Bank ATMs Bank ATMs HDFC, UTI and Federal There’s cards. in town, accepting all foreign Plan to get here during the rambunctious fes- here Plan to get to mid-May). tival season (November Orientation & Information Mon-Sat) Sri Krishna Temple (33km northeast of Thris- of (33km northeast Temple Sri Krishna ) and performing-arts school p1017 sur; see nearby. ) are p1017 (see Kalamandalam Kerala of Nestorian Christians, whose denomination of 3rd century AD. The popular back to the dates Keralan performing arts back to health. It is arts back to health. It is performing Keralan place, home to a community a busy, bustling trunk, the whole region supports multiple multiple supports region the whole trunk, classical the dying nursing that are institutions lonelyplanet.com KERALA can bebrisk.Breakfast isincluded. somearebalconies –though noisy.The staff than average andthedecent rooms allhave their heads. lack of pictorialrepresentations of Jesus. Church rian) from allroundtown;andthe which has rooms are withAC. nicer thanthose rooms. Someofably comfortable the non-AC inside, thishotel Marar off Rdhasreason- ably more splendidfromthe outsidethan .com; s/dRs450/575,with ACRs675/775; AC Rs517/644; einternational.com; ChembottilLane;s/dfromRs391/483, with dered byforeign visitors. rooms –allwithTV. bewil- seem The staff complex hasbig,cleanandrespectable-value 300/350, withACRs400/550) them. talking up andtrysweet inbiggrounds.Ringahead,orjustshow set particularly calmingshade of green, andit’s in. Huge roomswithbalconiesare painted a the best-value placeintown,ifyoucanget cnr Palace Rds;s/dRs165/220; &Museum GuestHouse Government Ramanilayam Sleeping ornatecarry tall, structures called dance) processionwhere hundreds of dancers tacular Maholsavam 20 elephantscirclingtheshrine;and (March/April), where theclimacticdaysees processions of elephants; and mostcolourfultemple festival –expect Pooram Thrissur ple revelry. include Someof thehighlights districtfortem- Thrissur isthestandout iron spikes andlocks. 1500kg woodentreasury box covered with nants of Kochi’s royalty,andanextraordinary tocookchildrenbig enough in,decadentrem- Keralan bronzesculptures, earthenware pots worthy artefacts, including12th-century its arrow-guided some mazeyouget tosee Palace than Thampuran h underground shrine; Lourdes Cathedral 1016 Hotel LuciyaPalace Hotel International Elite Hotel The Bini Tourist Home Bini Tourist whereIn astate festivals are awayof life, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) ETA EAA • hisr(rcu) (Trichur) CENTRAL KERALA••Thrissur kavadiyattam Archaeology Museum

towering, pure-white spires visible , which isuniqueinitscomplete ai (January/February), withaspec- (April/May), Kerala’s biggest , amassive cathedralwithan isinthe200-year-old ) Notquite elite, butbetter

( (

% % Thismassive U-shaped . Wanderingthrough (aformof ritualistic Puttanpalli (New)Church 2424731; luciyapalace@hotmail 2335703; Round North; s/dRs 2335703; RoundNorth; (

% Uthralikavu Pooram Uthralikavu 2421033; mail@hotelelit

Chaldean (Nesto- (admission Rs6; a a Consider- ) ( kavadis %

) Thisis Thypooya Thypooya 2332016; Sak- on ,

pleasant décor–andthere’spleasant apool! with comelyroomsdecked outinsimplebut Railway StationRd. Railway BUS Getting There&Away Indian CoffeeHouse AkshayaPalace Hotel excellent lunch-time meals(Rs60). this upmarket, NorthIndianveg placehas h cashew versions. range of and includingjam,cheese dosas, pure-veg an unbeatable bright, placeserving thisisa buildingastheHDFCBank, same trips. foraquickmealbetween stations tothetrainandbus 32 toRs49),thisone’sclose other placebustlingforlunch-time biryanis(Rs countersweets downstairs. is popularwithfamiliesforlunch andhasa and cafeteria-esque, thisatmosphericplace Pathans Hotel Eating Rds; s/dRs750/900; Rs 101/188/266, twohours) viaShoranur. trains running toPalakkad (sleeper/3AC/2AC cut (Rs41/213/295, 3½hours). There are also 3AC/2AC Rs 30/188/266,twohours) andCali- run regularly toErnakulam (2ndclass/ Services TRAIN ruthy (Rs17,1½hours, 10minutes). every There are fromhere alsobuses toCheruthu- ranur andPalakkad, Pollachi and Coimbatore. boundforSho- hasmanybuses north) stand The smaller,private Priyadarshini (alsocalled hour) andIrinjalakuda(Rs11,45minutes). forGuruvayur(Rs14,one hasbuses stand hours), forconnectionstoMunnar. 25, 1½hours) andPrumpavoor (Rs30,two hours). There are toPonnani(Rs also buses gotoCoimbatoreHourly buses (Rs61,three 1½ hours) (Rs64,fourhours). andKottayam (Rs72,3½hours), PalakkadCalicut (Rs37, (Rs 170,7½hours), Kochi (Rs46,twohours), from theKSRTC forTrivandrum busstand KSRTC leave buses 30minutes aroundevery 15-50) Veg andbiryanidishes. India Gate Sapphire Hotel Regency Siddhartha The large, private SakthanThampuran Also try: Navaratna Restaurant lunch &dinner; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(Palace Rd;dishesaroundRs25) (Round South;dishesfromRs20) as a (Railway StationRd;dishesRs20-60) (Railway

BranchesatRoundSouthand ) Cooldarkandintimate, (ChembottilLane;dishesRs (

% ) Thisisexcellentvalue,

(Round West;dishesRs30-80; 2424773; cnrTB&Veliyan-nur

Inthe Clean An- KERALA 11

1017 C1 C2 C1 C1 D1 C2 Taluk Rd Taluk 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 mohiniyat- Kalpetta (74km); D Sultanbatheri (99km) To Jet Airways (500m); 6 21 Scale

Approximate Stadium Rd Stadium 0480-2825559; natanakairali@gmail0480-2825559; 00 0.5 miles 1 km 9 % Indian Coffee House...... Indian Coffee House...... Indian Airlines...... KSRTC Bus Stand...... New Bus Stand...... Old Bus Stand...... Paragon Restaurant...... B1 TRANSPORT Stadium ( 16 Tali

Temple

MM Ali Rd C2 A1 D2 B1 C2 B2

Mavoor (Indira Gandhi) Rd 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Pavamani Rd 20 22 13 (dance of the temptress) performances, a performances, the temptress) (dance of , 20km south of Thrissur near Irinjalakuda, Thrissur of , 20km south 0495 / pop 880,168 Natana KairaliNatana Research & Performing Centre for 15

7 GH Rd 17 19 KOZHIKODE (CALICUT) KOZHIKODE (CALICUT) % trading town, Calicutprosperous was a Always the formidable Zamorinonce the capital of dy- landed near Calicut da Gama first Vasco nasty. the of a share snatch in 1498, on his way to country (Portugalsubcontinent for king and that is). These depends mostly on days, trade Middle East. to the exporting Indian labour not a lot for tourists to see, thoughThere’s it’s in the journey and is the jumping- a good break Sanctuary. point for Wayanad Wildlife off .com) including in traditional arts, training offers ap- Short dance. puppetry and forms of rare month) one (usually about courses preciation each In December to foreigners. available are days of holds five year, the centre NORTHERN KERALA tam women’s dance. Keralan classical form of Traditional ArtsTraditional 1

Bank Rd MP Rd 5 Rd SM Park El- 4 Ansari 8 12

Palayam Rd 3 Tank Airport (25km); 14 Palakkad (137km)

To (10km);

www

18

Station Railway Rd Town Hall Rd Hall Town 2 mohiniat- Alakapuri...... Beach Hotel...... Hotel Maharani...... Hyson Heritage...... Dawn Restaurant...... Hotel New Kerala...... Hotel Sagar...... C1 SLEEPING EATING Post B Office (traditional

at Guruvayur, RC Rd Train Station B1 B2 B1 D1 C1 B1 C1 AG Rd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 04884-262418;

Court Rd ὈὈ

% ( Rd Cherooty

(70km) kootiattam kootiattam (per person incl lunch US$18; (per person incl lunch US$18;

Big Bazaar Rd

To Thalasseri Convent Rd Convent Sri Krishna Temple Sri Krishna Temple visits NORTHERN •• Kozhikode (Calicut) KERALA , 32km northeast of Thrissur , 32km northeast of

are available, including a tour including a available, are Corporation Rd Corporation AC is held here in February or March. in February is held here To Kuttichira Mosque (1km)

10 Beach Rd Beach State Bank of India ATM...... UAE Exchange...... Church of South India...... Square...... Cat’s Net...... HDFC ATM...... (see 13) ICIC ATM...... KTDC Tourist Reception...... Net Ride...... B1 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

(classical dance), 9.30am-1pm)

Kerala Kalamandalam Kerala Kalamandalam KOZHIKODE (CALICUT) 2 3 1 Beach around Rs 1500 per month, plus Rs 1500 for accommodation). subject at a time (between six and 12 months; subject at a time (between six and 12 months; lin. Structured lin. Structured h tam Gurukula system of learning, students un- of Gurukula system Kathakali, study in intensive dergo .kalamandalam.com) Punnathur Kota. An annual and spectacular An annual Punnathur Kota. ephant Race voice and vio- Sanskrit drama), percussion, ing powers. The temple’s elephants (over 50 at elephants (over temple’s The ing powers. at an old kept palace,last count) are Guru, preceptor of the gods, and , god gods, and Vayu, the of Guru, preceptor from is believed to date wind, the temple of heal- for its and is renowned the 16th century 33km northwest of Thrissur, is perhaps the is perhaps Thrissur, of 33km northwest by Said to be created in Kerala. most famous AROUND THRISSUR THRISSUR AROUND The Hindu-only lonelyplanet.com around the theatre and classes. Individually around the theatre one offered are introductory courses tailored

at Cheruthuruthy, is a champion of Kerala’s Kerala’s of at Cheruthuruthy, is a champion an ancient Using traditional art renaissance.

ὄ ὄ KERALA to stay inCalicut. to stay plenty of character. Thisiseasily thebestplace all theroomsare tastefully furnished andhave rooms have verandas; bathtubsandsecluded is nowadainty10-room hotel. Beach-facing theMalabarin 1890tohouse BritishClub,this .com; BeachRd;rwithout/withACRs1200/1400; bad art. deluxe AC roomscomewithbathtubsand whilethemassivespacious andcomfortable, roomsare Thestandard your rupee. tidy, At thisplaceyouget afairbitof swankfor Bank Rd;s/dfromRs475/600,withAC900/1200; place toget awayfromthecitynoise. andabitworn.Regardless,it’sgreatspartan palms allaround,it’sashame theroomsare With abundantgreenery, alush gardenand .com; Taluk Rd;dwithout/with ACfromRs400/800; are tidyandreasonable value. ent sizesandprices,whilealittlescuffed quieter than most.Roomscomeinalldiffer- thisplaceisoff theroadandalittletain!) Around agreen lawn(complete withfoun- MM AliRd;s/dfromRs150/550,withAC450/650; Alakapuri Sleeping a lovely placetostrollinthelate afternoon. architecture. aries in1842andhasuniqueEuro-Keralan South India cued andrebuilt totell The thetale. in1510,itwasres-down bythePortuguese painted brilliantaqua,blueandwhite. Burnt building supported bywoodenpillars and Mosque spring-fed The650-year-old tank. theoriginal andpreserves of theZamorins, Square Mananchira Sights UAE Exchange Net Ride Reception Tourist KTDC Net Cat’s ATMs intown. There are of Bank HDFCand State India Information 1018 Mansion, SM Rd) Rudimentary tourist information. SMRd)Rudimentarytourist Mansion, though notalwaysinarow. 6pm Mon-Sat,to1.30pmSun). Beach Hotel Hyson Heritage Maharani Hotel Calicut’s OTENKRL • Kzioe(aiu) KERALA••Kozhikode(Calicut) NORTHERN is inanattractive four-storey wooden (BankRd;perhrRs20; ( Rd;perhrRs20)Open24hours– (Mavoor ( was established bySwiss wasestablished mission- % beach ( %

2723451-54; www.alakapurihotels.com; 2723451-54; www.alakapurihotels.com; ( % (

% 2723164; Mavoor Rd; 2723164; Mavoor

, north of the Beach Hotel, is , northof theBeach wastheformercourtyard ( /fax 2762055;www.beachheritage % 2766726; www.hysonheritage.com; 2766726; www.hysonheritage.com; ( 2723101; www.hotelmaharani % 2722391; Malabar 2722391; Malabar h 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) h a Kuttichira 9.30am- Church of Built ) a a a ) )

) This isastylish andbreezy veg andnonveg 126; BUS toGoa(US$200). flights twice-weekly Delhi (US$382)andCoimbatore (US$77),and toChennai(US$137), It alsohasdailyflights ( to Mumbai(US$200)–asdoes Airways Jet AIR Getting There&Away lunch-time setmeals(Rs30)andbiryanis. NewKerala Hotel also abranchonGHRd. Indian CoffeeHouse awful, loudmuzak. Indian dishesandKeralan specials totruly inventive multicuisinewell, serving does come lunchtime toprove it. and nonveg dishesandispacked totherafters recommendedthis placecomeshighly forveg as flashthesignwouldhave youbelieve, meals atlunchtime. place withbiryanis(includingfish, Rs60)and Sagar Hotel Eating hours). drum (sleeper/3AC/2AC Rs190/505/716, 11 (Rs 41/213/295,3½ hours), andtoTrivan- (Rs 57/281/402, five hours) viaThrissur (Rs 34/188/266, two hours), Ernakulam 2AC Rs64/310/445,five hours) viaKannur There are trainstoMangalore (2ndclass/3AC/ issouth ofThe trainstation Mananchira Sq. TRAIN private buses. voor Rd,haslong-distance (Rs 45,twohours). (Rs57,threetanbatheri hours) viaKalpetta leavebuses 15minutes every headingtoSul- hours, 13 daily).ForWayanaddistrict, seven (Rs146, 10 hours, daily)andKottayam eight (going viaAlleppeyandErnakulam;Rs248, Thrissur (Rs74,three hours), Trivandrum four daily).There are alsofrequent to buses four daily)andtoOoty(Rs83,5½hours, 10 daily),Mangalore hours, (Rs148,seven (viaMysore, hours, Rs188,eight Bengaluru The % For tasty, cheapFor tasty, mealsalsotrythefollowing: Paragon Restaurant Dawn Restaurant The new bus stand, further eastalongMa-The newbusstand, a 2766243; ErothCentre, BankRd) KSRTC busstand KSRTC ) Therestaurant attheHotel Malabar

(Mavoor Rd;dishesfromRs20; (Mavoor ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % 2740518; 29 Mavoor Rd) 2740518; 29Mavoor (SMRd;dishesRs12-50)Full dailyfor (Mavoor Rd)Great forbreakfast; there’s (Mavoor

(GH Rd;dishesRs60-150,buffet Rs (Kannur Rd;dishesRs28-90) (Kannur

(Mavoor Rd) (Mavoor for the same price. forthesame has buses to hasbuses Indian Airlines fliesdaily h 6am-2am) Not

KERALA

, a jeep are are 1019 (Rs 350 , with of the

trekking 8am-noon 9am-5pm) dawn-dusk)

(Rs 300) h h ( h

. Permits are are . Permits ( 9am-5pm)

jeep tours Pakshipathalam h Wayanad Heritage guided walks waterfalls Jain temple are a great way to spot to spot way a great are (admission Rs 5; , at 2100m the tallest summit; Thirunelly Temple , with great views and lots of wild- views and lots of , with great (up to five people, Rs 1700 to Rs 2000) (up to five people, Rs 1700 to Rs (; admission Rs 5;

and four-hour and four-hour , near Sultanbatheri, has splendid , near Sultanbatheri, has splendid (Rs 500 incl guide) (Rs 500 incl guide)

Edakal Caves At Tholpetty, early morning 1½-hour early morning 1½-hour At Tholpetty, Thought to be one of the oldest on the on the the oldest Thought to be one of The 13th-century At Muthanga, two-hour At Muthanga, two-hour The DTPC and most hotels arrange guided arrange The DTPC and most hotels only permitted with a park guard (Rs 200); (Rs 200); a park guard with only permitted this throughyou can organise the DTPC of- or at the park’s entrance hotel fice, with your offices. formation of large boulders deep in the for- boulders large formation of est; and a number of years and awe-inspiring views of Wayanad and awe-inspiring views of years district. In the same area, Museum carved weapons, pottery, exhibits headgear, dating back to the stone and other artefacts 15th century that shed light on Wayanad’s significant population (around 17% four-hour bamboo rafting trips (Rs 950) from bamboo four-hour June to December. subcontinent, is around 10km from Tholpetty. While non- the ancient and intri- Hindus cannot enter, and stone carvings, pillars cate set against a peaks, is an soaring, mist-covered backdrop of astounding sight what your creed. no matter & 2-6pm) stone carvings and is an important monu- strong historical Jain ment to the region’s are Close by, near Ambalavayal, presence. the OTHER SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS OTHER for some top opportunities are There the precipice around the district, including of officers from forest necessary and available in South or North Wayanad. The accom- organises modating DTPC officein Kalpetta guides (Rs 500 per day), permits, trekking and equipment (Rs 200 per person) anything you might much transport – pretty It also runs need own trek. you to organise tours also available. are tours afternoon wildlife; wild- ) arranges p1020 (see Palace Pachyderm surrounding into the areas treks life-spotting the Tholpetty sanctuary. incl guide) opportunities; life-spotting sanctuaries and surrounding sights. petroglyphs thought to date back over 3000 thought back over to date petroglyphs available. jeep tours

is in 04936- 10am-5pm % Muthanga

(Indian/for-

( 7am-5pm) 04936-207636; h in the south, h

% ( sanctuary in the north, on the in the northwest. DTPC office DTPC office Kalpetta UAE Exchange UAE Tholpetty NORTHERN Sanctuary •• Wayanad Wildlife KERALA Mananthavadi (also known as Sultan Battery) in 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1.30pm Sun)

can help organise tours, permits and tours, can help organise h

04936 The extremely helpful The extremely

Heading southeast, there are trains to Coim- are southeast, there Heading

VISITING THE SANCTUARY VISITING THE SANCTUARY the Entry to both parts of towns, as well as internet cafés. towns, as well as internet Sights & Activities Kalpetta, and Federal Bank or Canara Bank and Federal Kalpetta, main the three of can be found in each ATMs trekking. There’s a There’s trekking. Main Rd; 202134; www.dtpcwayanad.com; Kalpetta; Mon-Sat) the east and Sultanbatheri border with Karnataka. Three major towns major Three border with Karnataka. good bases for ex- in make ploring the sanctuary – consists of two separate pockets – two separate pockets consists of the district, on the border of in the east of Nadu, and Tamil The sanctuary, covering an area of 345 sq km, of an area The sanctuary, covering casionally tigers. Orientation & Information here include sambar and spotted dear, Indian include sambar and spotted here and, drumroll, oc- bison, langur monkeys ephants. Other wildlife that roam the forests that roam the forests ephants. Other wildlife and Kochi, the region gets surprisingly few surprisingly few gets the region and Kochi, places the few though it’s one of visitors, almost guaranteed to spot wild el- you’re and more rice paddies (the name translates name translates rice paddies (the and more paddy fields’). A convenient to ‘country of point between Bengaluru stopover or Mysore beauty, the landscape is a green medley of rice medley of a green beauty, the landscape is spice plantations forests, paddies, untouched cocooned in the hills of the Western Ghats. Ghats. the Western cocooned in the hills of for its jaw-dropping among Keralans Famed serve in into national parks that spills over Nadu, Wayanad lies and Tamil Karnataka If Kerala is ‘ God’s Country’, this must be his Country’, God’s is ‘ Kerala If re- forest a remote of Eden. Part garden of WAYANAD WILDLIFE SANCTUARY SANCTUARY WAYANAD WILDLIFE % or most hotels. Getting Around Getting Around It’s about Calicut autorickshaws. has a glut of stand bus stationRs 10 from the to the KSRTC hours), via Palakkad (Rs 101/221/316, three three (Rs 101/221/316, Palakkad via hours), Thesehours). to the trains then head north Bengaluru,of Delhi. Chennai and centres batore (sleeper/3AC/2AC Rs 101/271/388, five five 101/271/388, Rs (sleeper/3AC/2AC batore lonelyplanet.com eigner Rs 10/100, camera/video Rs 25/150; KERALA Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) from Rs350/400,withAC750/800; stroll aroundthelake’s perimeter. peaceful, particularlyifyoutake ahalf-hour for rent (Rs30/50per20minutes). It’sstill cafeteria, playgroundandpaddle/rowboats for visitors, gardens,a ithaswell-maintained tares of pepper,coffee, vanillaand cardamom isin themiddleofous homestay 160hec- €270/340; Kuppamudi Estate,Kolagapara; s/d€190/240,deluxe s/d meals are available (Rs250perday). there’s peacehere aplenty.TraditionalKeralan with kitchen, livingarea separate andbalcony, road before Vythiri.Fullyself-contained, the main among thehills,about2.5kmoff modern cottages are byasmall stream set .streamvalleycottages.com; dRs2500) Vythiri; nakulam (see p1005 ). theTouristDeskinEr- through reservations ter. TheKeralan Make foodisoutstanding. surrounded byforest are thepickof thelit- simple andspotless,butthestilt-bungalows hoc wildlife viewing.Thevariedroomsare handy forearlymorningtreks, tours andad the gate of TholpettyWildlife Sanctuary– lieshuddledoutside house This comfortable satyam.net.in; Tholpetty;rperpersoninclmealsRs1250-1500) in priceonly. ones deluxe fromthestandard roomsdiffer tidy andquietroomsit’sstillawinner. The particularly inspired, butwithlarge, restful, thisnewplaceisnot deal inSultanbatheri, hikes upChembraPeak (Rs600,sixhours). to Wayanad(Rs1700percarload)here or good sizedandcomfy.Youcanarrange trips middle of Kalpetta hasroomsthatare clean, 550; s/dRs150/250,deluxe dRs500- Kalpetta; touristhome.com; the you’ll have tobringyourownfood.Contact entrance,though petty nearthesanctuary There’s a Sleeping &Eating h what’s ondisplay. but thefriendlyguardianishappytoexplain of population).Thelabellingispoor, thetotal 1020 Stream Valley Cottages Stream Pachyderm Palace Home PPS Tourist The picture-perfect Tranquil Regency Hotel a 9am-6pm) wildlife warden ) at Sultanbatheri for details. fordetails. at Sultanbatheri OTENKRL • Knu Cnaoe (Cannanore) KERALA••Kannur NORTHERN This agreeable andfriendlyplaceinthe s

seramby ( ) is3kmbefore Vythiri.Geared up Thistrulycharming andluxuri- % 04936-220244; www.tranquilresort.com; 04936-220244; www.tranquilresort.com;

( %

( (wooden hut;dRs900) %

(

04936-220512; Sultanbatheri; s/d 04936-220512; Sultanbatheri; % ( % 04936-220454; Pookot Lake 0484-2371761; touristdesk@

04936-203431; www.pps ( % 0436-255860; www a These huge, These (admission Rs5; h

) Thebest at Thol- 10am-5pm blend ofmodernandnaturalmaterials. Rs 2750/3000; s/dRs1250/1500,cottages gateshotel.com; Kalpetta; . s fromRs150/200)Theonlyhalf-decentplacetostayin performances (see session opposite ). way –lookforthemlinedupnearthebus the next;theycostabout Rs450to600each You canrent toget jeeps fromonetownto (Rs 12toRs18,45minutes to1¼hours). 10to20minutes every andSultanbatheri petta for Mysore leave 30minutes. every way toOoty(Rs76,fourhours), andbuses at1pmonits Sultanbatheri through passes minutes (Rs 48,2½hours). Onebusperday Kannurbetween andMananthavadi 45 every 30minutes.45) every alsorun Private buses (Rs57)viaKalpetta (Rs and Sultanbatheri braveBuses Calicut thewindyroadsbetween Getting There&Around Hotel Gates Green Dew Drops meals andtax. (single/double€240/300).Pricesinclude seen have themostluxurioustreehouse we’ve ever arrange tours of thearea (included).Theyalso niture. Theowners are excellenthostsand verandas filledwithplantsandhandsomefur- hassweeping Theeleganthouse plantations. supply maps of Kannur and afew brochures. counter site theKSRTC andthe busstand, The Information MalabariCosta andincredible and cashewtrade,withanexcellent beach at town knownmostlyforitsweaving industry Today it’sanagreeable, unexciting, though and British, have hadagoatshaping Kannur. Dutch suspects, includingthePortuguese, of spicetrade’.Sincethen,theusualcolonial plorer Marco Polochristened ita‘great emporia port bristlingwithinternational trade–ex- Under the Kolathirirajas, Kannur wasamajor % KANNUR (CANNANORE) car rental (fromaroundRs1300perday). around thedistrict,andDTPCcanarrange stands. Local buses connectMananthavadi,Local buses Kal- There are plentyof autorickshaws fortrips You couldalsotry: 0497 /pop498,175 DTPC

( h

( ( % % as Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 8am-7pm) 2706336; 04935-242; Mysore Rd, Mananthavadi; 04935-242; Mysore Rd,Mananthavadi; ( ) Well-designedcottageswitha % h at the train station canat thetrain station 04936-202001; www.green 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) theyyam information , oppo- pos- KERALA 1021 This has This has 0484-2371761; 0484-2371761; ) In a big herit- 2703182; Mill Rd; s/d % ( 2706426; d Rs 220, with a

% (

2708445; s/d Rs 700/900, 2768270; MA Rd; s/d Rs s/d Rs Rd; 2768270; MA %

( , located 20km north 20km north , located ) Near the Government Near the Government % % ( (

as 0460-2243460) Ostensibly only for government only for government Ostensibly ) Costa Malabari Costa Malabari

% ( a performances morphed to incor- have In a small village and five minutes’ walk minutes’ and five In a small village Kairail Mascot Beach Resort Government Guest House o Palmgrove Heritage Retreat is believed to predate Hinduism and to have Hinduism and to have to predate is believed meals) from Rs 200/350, with AC Rs 700/800; quiet, smallish- variety of a there’s bric-a-brac, greenery. but-snug rooms set around lots of AC Rs 575; in if there’s officials (but it will let visitors bright rooms, huge, value – room), this is great complex by all with balcony, in a sprawling ahead. the ocean. Phone with AC Rs 1000/1200; Guest House, this also has grand views of rooms, though the ocean from its comfy AC away and a tucked options are the cheaper bit dark. of Kannur, is starting to offer houseboat is starting trips to offer Kannur, of backwaters. northern Kerala on the unspoilt Day cruises Rs 3500, for up to 10 people cost Rs trips for two are overnight and 24-hour 5000. Eating Sleeping & Centaur Tourist Home across the road basic, spacious, clean rooms, plenty of are from the train station. There in this area. similar lodges 175/290, with shared bathroom Rs 120/230) bathroom 175/290, with shared [email protected]; r Rs 1250-1500 per person incl age house packed with antique furniture and with antique furniture house packed age theyyam theyyam, s, each with a distinct costume; face paint, bracelets, s, each with a distinct costume; face paint, bracelets, (sacred groves) that are abundant throughout northern abundant that are groves) (sacred , near , near 2835280; he larg-

(admission t %

( kavus is . NORTHERNKannur KERALA •• (Cannanore) theyyam 2778090) % ( Kausallaya Weavers’

9am-6pm) St Angelo Fort h Co-Operative

s are also often held to bring good fortune also often to importants are such as events, on somewhere reason- on somewhere 2708818; Mahatma Mandir Junction; season is October to May, during which time there will be an annual ritual at will be an annual ritual at season is October to May, during which time there Beedi

2835279; , with a factory at , in 1505 from brilliantly red red in 1505 from brilliantly % (

Theyyam refers to both the form or shape of the deity or hero portrayed, the ritual. and to refers theyyam % . (

theyyam (see the boxed text, below ); there ); there below text, (see boxed the kavu 9am-6pm) The performer prepares for the ritual with a period of abstinence, and meditation, and meditation, for the ritual with a period of abstinence, fasting performerThe prepares The Theyyam

Kerala Folklore Academy h Kerala Dinesh 8-5pm Tue-Sat) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) 9.30am-5.30pm breastplates, skirts, garlands and especially headdresses are exuberant, intricately crafted and and crafted skirts, intricately exuberant, are breastplates, garlands and especially headdresses sometimes huge (up to 6m or 7m tall). Today’s which extends into the laborious make-upwhich extends and costume session. During the performance, the as if he were performer and blesses the devotees his physical identity and speaks, moves loses otherworldly atmosphere dancing and wild drumming, and a surreal, is frenzied the deity. There itself manifest the kind in which a deity indeed might, if it so desired, of atmosphere is created, in human form. porate popular and even Muslim characters. popular Hindu deities and even porate There are around 450 different 450 different around are There THEYYAM THEYYAM form, Kerala’s most popular ritualistic art up to 800 in Kannur are district alone). Kerala (there marriages and house warmings. See above for details on how to find one. above See marriages and house warmings. developed from folk dances performed developed local in conjunction An intensely harvest with celebrations. performedritual, it’s often in the each Established in 1955, the

The Portuguese built UAE Exchange UAE Co-Operative 7km south of Kannur. Either of these coop- Either of Kannur. 7km south of ride autorickshaw is a Rs 80 (return) eratives town. from Kannur the the h est, and purportedly best, manufacturers is best, manufacturers est, and purportedly clicking with the sound of looms. You can looms. of clicking with the sound stop by for a quick tour – it’s 8km south of is known for the manu- This region Kannur. beedis, those of tiny Indian cigarettes facture the larg- One of leaves. deftly rolled in green free; free; northwest stone on the promontory views and has excellent town. It’s serene of beaches. some palm-fringed of Chirakkal Pond, Valapattanam. Chirakkal Pond, Valapattanam. it, ask at Costa Malabari (see right ), or try right (seeit, ask at Costa Malabari the should be a To find ably close the year. by most nights of Sights Sights place to see is the best Kannur dance the ritual theyyam HDFC ATM about 50m from it, along with about 50m HDFC ATM a There are Federal Bank and State Bank of Bank State and Bank of Federal are There stand, to the bus adjacent and an India ATMs Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book h est in Kannur and occupies a creaky building and occupies a creaky est in Kannur KERALA sandbars. and calmwater,sand butbeware of shifting rediffmail.com; Kottappuram) small Hindutemple andplentyof goats. a rocky headlandandhouses sits onBekal’s 5/100; sibilities inmind,especiallyatthebeach. Muslim area, to keep localsen- it’simportant adventurers. it’sapredominantly Because it aDIYdestinationforoff-the-beaten-track and getting aroundcanbeareal pain,making (andnonenearabeach)decent placestostay into thenextKovalam. As yet,there are few luxury resorts hopingtotransformthearea palm-fringed large-scale, finish lineforseveral beaches. Wordonthestreet istheyformthe Kerala’s farnorthboastunspoiltwhite-sand (andnearbyPalakunnuBekal andUdma)in % BEKAL &AROUND hours). Ernakulam (Rs75/361/518,seven (Rs34/188/266,twohours) hours), and Calicut (2nd class/3AC/2AC Rs44/221/316,three the trainstation. located theKSRTCstand, between and stand Rs 48,2½hours) leave fromtheprivate bus toMananthavadiprivate buses (forWayanad, (via Wayanad,Rs170,ninehours). Frequent There’sand evening. onebusdailytoOoty hours)(Rs 170,eight leave intheafternoon (Rs52,2½hours) andErnakulamCalicut lore (Rs76,fourhours). Mostdepartures to hours)(Rs 136,eight andafew toManga- There are frequent toMysore dailybuses Getting There&Away vations attheTouristDeskinErnakulam. isaroundRs80.Makethe trainstation reser- visit. It’s8kmfromKannur from town;ataxi boxed(see text, p1021 ) andcanhelparrange a an expertontheastonishing in thecountry.Kurien,yourgracioushost,is justbethebest plentiful and,frankly,might Thehome-cooked Keralan cliff. sea foodis perched dramaticallyona house a second the outside,plusithasexpandedtoinclude space andlotsof comfyloungingareas dot hand-loom factory.There’s ahuge communal has afew spaciousroomsinanold bright, beach, thisplace from anidyllicandsecluded 1022 Bekal BoatStay Bekal Kpi Beach Kappil The laterite-brick There are dailytrainstoMangalore several 0467 h LAKSHADWEEP 8am-5pm) , 6km north of Bekal, hasfine , 6kmnorthof Bekal, , built between 1645and1660, , builtbetween

( % Fort Bekal ,

0476-3953311; bekalboats@ 22km south of Bekal, 22km south of Bekal, (Indian/foreigner Rs theyyam ritual 550; s/dfromRs200/350,dwithAC Kanhangad; bekal.com; the roadandhasbig,cleanrooms. therailwayand ment, it’ssquished between passingmuster inthehygienedepart- Bekal surrounded bypaddyfields.It’sanintimate intheinlandvillages, thisplaceisdeep Bekal, maculate (green) rooms. ’70s chairs, andabigchoice of spacious,im- has agreen fetish, fromwallsto ineverything Thehuge complex it’s 12kmsouthof Bekal. the village of Palakunnu 3kmfromBekal. Frequent localtrainsstopatKotikulum,in Getting There&Around with ancestralfurniture andpolishedwood. roomsfilled higgledy-piggledy comfortable, inagracefulheritage home,with homestay .com; s/dwithmealsUS$50/75) s/dfromRs200/350) .com; Bekal; (10km north). Kanhangad (12kmsouth)andKasaragod optionsareSleeping mostlyscattered between Sleeping &Eating hours fortwo/fourpeople). offer trips(Rs6000/8000per24 houseboat is oneof thefirst intheregion enterprises to pelago lagoons, unspoiled coralreefs and the4200sq km of pristine archi-the water: Malmi (sailors) andMelachery (farmers). the islanders Koya(landowners), between traditionalandacaste systemhighly divides of income,locallife ontheislandsremains fishing andcoirproductionthemain sources onahandful ofallowed tostay With these. Muslim fishermen, andforeigners are only of theislandsare inhabited, mostlywithSunni toget to.is asstunningitdifficult Only10 thecoastof300km off Kerala, Lakshadweep A string of 36palm-covered coralislands pop 60,595 LAKSHADWEEP to/from Palakunnu andUdma(Rs20to30). Junctioncantake you autorickshaw atBekal 10, 20minutes), thenearest bigtown,andan There are to/fromKasaragod manybuses (Rs Kanhangad, 13kmsouth,isthemajor stop. Hotel Bekal International Bekal Hotel Gitanjali Heritage K-Tees Residency The real attraction of theislandsliesunder a ) The most comfortable hotel around, Themostcomfortable Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (

( % % 2234159; www.gitanjaliheritage 3950208; www.kteesresidency Five kilometres from Theonlyplacenear

( % 2204271; www.hotel KERALA 1023 N A D U T A M I L 00 100 km 60 miles K A R N A T A K A Kollam (Quilon) (Trivandrum) K E R A L A Kochi Thiruvananthapuram (Cochin) Thrissur (Trichur) For Kadmat, there are scheduled boat de- scheduled are there For Kadmat, partures from Kochi between from Kochi October and partures seats, including in AC (US$75 return May way) – allow a stay each food, 18 to 20 hours Get time. in days plus travelling to five three of details. for with Sports in Kochi touch BANGARAM ISLAND with pure island is fringed hectare The 50- sand, the moon slipping be- and the sight of nearly worth neath the lagoon horizon is very is a tiny Dornier 228 propeller aircraft and aircraft 228 propeller Dornier is a tiny luggage. 10kg of to restricted are passengers book went to this As advance. Book well in Airlines had just started Kingfisher up press, Island with flights and Agatti between Kochi (around and for half the price planes bigger Tuesday, Kochi Flights leave US$200 return). return Saturday at 12.50pm and and Thursday the same day at 2.40pm – though this may all (www its website to check so its best change information. for the latest .flykingfisher.com) to by boat from Agatti A 1½-hour transfer A boat Bangaram costs an extra US$50 return. is US$50 one way from Kochi trip to Agatti (16 to 20 hours).

S e a l

L a k s h a d w e e p e

n

n

a

h

C e Cherian

Kalpeni e

10am-5pm Mon-Sat) r g

h e D Kiltan

Minicoy Kadmat e Chetlat

Amini n

Kavaratti i 0484-2668387; www.lakshadweeptour Bangaram ISLANDS

•• Bangaram Island LAKSHADWEEP N LAKSHADWEEP % Suhell ISLANDS AMINDIVI S e a Bitra Agatti

Par (Society for the Promotion of Recreational(Society for the Promotion Tourism &

A r a b i a n

Perumal

LAKSHADWEEP

day to Saturday from Kochi to Agatti Island to Agatti day to Saturday from Kochi The plane way, 1¼ hours). (US$200 each Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Indian Airlines has daily 9.15am flights Mon- Kadmat, and Indians can stay in resorts on and Indians can stay in resorts Kadmat, and . tors, hotels or Sports in Kochi. Foreigners and Foreigners or Sports in Kochi. hotels tors, and Indians can stay Bangaram, on Agatti resorts; a special permit (one month’s notice) a special permit resorts; by tour opera- and is organised is required PERMITS PERMITS to staying in pricey limited are Foreigners

Sports; Map p1003 ; ism.com; IG Rd, Willingdon Island; Information Information Sports only be visited on a pre-organised package package on a pre-organised only be visited for are accommodation prices trip – all listed season and include to May the peak October meals. permits and warm waters are a magnet for flipper-toting for flipper-toting a magnet are waters warm Lakshadweep can alike. and divers travellers lonelyplanet.com is the main tourism organisation. is the main tourism organisation. KERALA the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake twperpersonfor3nightsUS$305-345, .agattiislandresorts.com; ranged. trips andjauntstonearbyislandscanbear- Snorkelling, kayaking,glass-bottom boat modestly. There’s noalcohol ontheisland. eral mosques,which youcanvisitifdressed The village onthis2.7-sq-kmislandhassev- AGATTI ISLAND tors cansecure abetter deal. around before youleave home–someopera- is administered from itshotel inKochi. Shop ( with mealsUS$525) US$280/290,4-persondeluxe cottages with fullboardOct-Apr fishingandsailing. kelling, deep-sea Activitiesincludediving,snor-the expense. 1024 © LonelyPlanetPublications % Bangaram IslandResort Agatti IslandBeachResort Agatti City. AroundBangaram,goodspotsincludethe32m-deepwreck ofthe Cave,the North Wall,JackPoint,SharkAlley,PotatoPatch, CrossCurrents andStingRay severely andmanydive outfitscloseupshop. limittheseopportunities seas are calmandvisibilityis20mto40m.Duringthemonsoonweatherstrongcurrents undisturbed coralreefs. The besttimetodive andmid-Maywhenthe isbetweenmid-October Lakshadweep isadiver’s dream, withexcellentvisibilityandaplethoraofmarinelife livingon DIVING Island isrunby Mumbai; itswebsite The alsohasdetailsaboutaccommodationpackages. divingschoolonAgatti for multipledives. Informationisavailablethroughthehotels ordirectly throughLacadives in while experienceddivers payUS$40perdive (plusequipmentrental), withdiscountsavailable Islands.centres coursecostsUS$400, Costscanvary:aCMAS onBangaramandKadmat one-star the islands. Foraguidetoenvironmentallyfriendlydiving,seetheboxed text, p94 . Point, Life, GrandCanyon andtheimpressive reef sunken atPerumal Par. 0484-2668221; [email protected]) From ,dives rangefrom9mto20mindepthandsomeofthebetterFrom Kadmat sites include Lacadives Because ofweightrestrictions mostdivers on aircraft(10kg), rely onequipmentprovided on ASAWE • Aat sad LAKSHADWEEP ••Agatti Island isrunbythe ( % Diving 022-66627381-82; www.lacadives.com; E-20Everest Bldg,Taredo Rd,Mumbai)

(www.cghearth.com; s/d (www.cghearth.com; (

%

( 0484-2362232; www % CGH Earth group CGH Earth 0832-2555117; www.goadiving.com) , and

2500/4000, s/dforforeigners US$75/125,withACUS$100/ [email protected]; s/dforIndiansRs2000/3000,withAC 175; BeachResort Kadmat KADMAT ISLAND out AC, andarestaurant for20people. coolwith- cottages, designedtobecomfortably packages. Theresort beach hassimple,low-rise southern tipof theislandandoffers arange of with ACUS$430-470; prices. 3500/6000/7000 return) mustbeaddedtothe port fromKochi (tourist/1st/deluxe classRs (s/d Rs2000/3000,withAC2500/4000; can rent newlybuiltcottages at onremoteIndians wishing tostay Minicoy MINICOY ISLAND a ) isadministered by Sports(see p1023 ). . a ) sitsontwobeaches atthe

Princess Royale ( % 0484-2668387; laksports lonelyplanet.com a runsdive . Boattrans- Swaying Palm ) , Manta