Decolonial/Anti-Racist Work
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The Cheongsam—The Treasure of Chinese National Apparel
Asian Culture and History January, 2009 The Cheongsam—the Treasure of Chinese National Apparel Hongxia Liu Fashion & Art College Tianjin Polytechnical University No. 66 Chenglin Road, Tianjin 300160, China E-mail: [email protected] Abstract The cheongsam, the typical national apparel of the internal and external harmonious unity, is known as the representative of the Chinese clothing culture. It has expressed the virtuous, elegant, and gentle temperament of the Chinese women through flowing melody, rakish picturesque conception, and strong poetic emotion. The paper studies several aspects of the origin, evolution, techniques and communication to let China and the world know better about cheongsam, the national apparel of China. Keywords: Cheongsam, Nation, Garments Cheongsams, the traditional national apparel, are owned and cherished by all Chinese of all regions. A cheongsam is a special garment favored by people all over the world. Its elegance is known by the Chinese people, and appreciated by the world. The cheongsam, as the Chinese name suggests, refers to the gown that women of Eight Banners wore before Manchu rulers went across Shanhaiguan, the important pass in north part of China. It was actually the daily dress mainly for women of Manchu and Mongolia. Its basic style is loose with standing collar, bottoms on the right chest, long sleeves, and spacious downswing without side vents by linear tailoring. Usually there is decorative embroidery or other colors of lace in the front collar or at the downswing or the mouth of the sleeves. A Chinese Cheongsam, with the oriental artistic aesthetics as the cultural heritage, has displayed various beauties, youthful beauty of young ladies and the maturity of women grow-ups. -
Sự Tiếp Biến Trong Nghệ Thuật Thiết Kế Áo Dài Của Phụ Nữ Việt Từ Những Năm 1930 Đến Năm 2017
BỘ GIÁO DỤC VÀ ĐÀO TẠO BỘ VĂN HÓA, THỂ THAO VÀ DU LỊCH VIỆN VĂN HÓA NGHỆ THUẬT QUỐC GIA VIỆT NAM Nguyễn Thị Loan SỰ TIẾP BIẾN TRONG NGHỆ THUẬT THIẾT KẾ ÁO DÀI CỦA PHỤ NỮ VIỆT TỪ NHỮNG NĂM 1930 ĐẾN NĂM 2017 LUẬN ÁN TIẾN SĨ NGHỆ THUẬT Hà Nội – 2020 BỘ GIÁO DỤC VÀ ĐÀO TẠO BỘ VĂN HÓA, THỂ THAO VÀ DU LỊCH VIỆN VĂN HÓA NGHỆ THUẬT QUỐC GIA VIỆT NAM Nguyễn Thị Loan SỰ TIẾP BIẾN TRONG NGHỆ THUẬT THIẾT KẾ ÁO DÀI CỦA PHỤ NỮ VIỆT TỪ NHỮNG NĂM 1930 ĐẾN NĂM 2017 Chuyên ngành: Lý luận và Lịch sử Mỹ thuật Mã số: 9210101 LUẬN ÁN TIẾN SĨ NGHỆ THUẬT Người hướng dẫn khoa học: PGS. TS. Đoàn Thị Tình TS. Trần Thủy Bình Hà Nội – 2020 i LỜI CAM ĐOAN Tôi xin cam đoan bản luận án tiến sĩ với đề tài: Sự tiếp biến trong nghệ thuật thiết kế áo dài của phụ nữ Việt từ những năm 1930 đến năm 2017 là công trình do chính tôi viết. Tôi xin chịu trách nhiệm về lời cam đoan này. Hà Nội, ngày tháng năm 2020 Tác giả luận án Nguyễn Thị Loan ii DANH MỤC CHỮ VIẾT TẮT Chữ viết tắt Chữ viết đầy đủ BST Bộ sưu tập GS Giáo sư H Hình PGS Phó giáo sư PL Phụ lục NCS Nghiên cứu sinh NTK Nhà thiết kế Nxb Nhà xuất bản TK Thế kỷ TS Tiến sĩ tr Trang iii MỤC LỤC Trang LỜI CAM ĐOAN……………………………………………………… i DANH MỤC CHỮ VIẾT TẮT……………………………………….. -
Washington Museum by Sir David Adjaye Named Best Design of 2017 London, 25 January 2018
Washington Museum by Sir David Adjaye named best design of 2017 London, 25 January 2018 The Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C. is crowned the Beazley Design of the Year 2017 The project is the culmination of a decades-long struggle to recognise the importance of the black community in the social fabric of American life Further category winners on the night include a high-performance hijab by Nike, a stairclimbing wheelchair and ink manufactured from air pollution The National Museum of African American History and Culture, designed by Adjaye Associates, The Freelon Group, Davis Brody Bond, and SmithGroupJJR for the Smithsonian Institution, has been named the winner of the Beazley Design of the Year award. The annual prize and exhibition curated and hosted by the Design Museum in London has included previous winners such as IKEA and UNHCR’s Better Shelter, the London 2012 Olympic Torch and the Barack Obama Hope poster. Now in its tenth year, the award was presented at an exclusive dinner held inside the stunning central atrium of the Design Museum in Kensington. Selected as the winner of the Architecture category, the landmark project designed by the recently knighted Sir David Adjaye overcame the other five category winners to claim the overall award. 2017 saw Adjaye knighted by Her Majesty the Queen for services to Architecture, following the previous award of an OBE in 2007. In 2017 he was also recognised as one of the 100 most influential people of the year by TIME magazine. BEAZLEY DESIGNS OF THE YEAR 1 Architecture and overall winner: Name: Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
David Adjaye:Public Engagement and Private Retreat
For Immediate Release Media Contact: Kitty Dumas 305-348-3892 / [email protected] Acclaimed British Architect to Speak at FIU David Adjaye:Public Engagement and Private Retreat Miami- (March 1, 2008) - Internationally acclaimed British architect David Adjaye will speak on Friday, March 14, at 8:00 p.m. as part of The Frost Art Museum’s Steven & Dorothea Green Critics’ Lecture Series. The lecture will be held in the Green Library, GL 100 on the University Park Campus of Florida International University, 11200 SW 8th Street, Miami. The event is free and open to the public. Adjaye will discuss the creative process that has made him one of the most sought-after architects of his generation in the UK, and brought him international recognition. His ingenious use of materials and ability to sculpt and showcase light have attracted both critical success and admiration from the public. Adjaye built his reputation in London’s East End, designing houses and studios in this older, gentrifying area, for artists and celebrities including Ewan McGregor and Juergen Teller. Known for his use of light in creating spaces that blur the lines between art and architecture, he has said that he works “more like an artist than an architect.” Last year, Adjaye celebrated what he has described as the pinnacle of his career thus far with the opening of the Museum of Contemporary Art/Denver, his first major public building in the United States. The museum is recognized by the Leadership in Energy and Environment Design (Leed) as one of the country’s first “green” art museums, because of Adjaye’s use of recycled materials and energy efficient systems. -
Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979
Asian Social Science; Vol. 16, No. 2; 2020 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979 Yuru Ma 1 & Xiangyang Bian1 1 Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai, China Correspondence: Xiangyang Bian, Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, 1882 West Yan’an Road, Changning District, Shanghai, China. Tel: 137-0171-5417. E-mail: [email protected] Received: November 28, 2019 Accepted: December 28, 2019 Online Published: January 31, 2020 doi:10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 URL: https://doi.org/10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 Abstract The decade of 1970s was a peak of Chinese influence on Western fashion. This article was intended to reveal the categories and design characteristics of Chinese-influenced clothing with classified statistical method based on collecting a total of 295 sets of designs presented during 1970-1979 from four fashion magazines. The underlying reasons for the popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing on western fashion were also analyzed and summarized. The research results showed that the Chinese-influenced clothing included three categories: outdoor daily clothes, indoor home wears and evening dresses, presenting neutral, romantic and luxury respectively. The popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing was mainly a result of some national and international factors, including anti-fashion aesthetics in the western society, the normalization of Sino-American relation and the development of Hong Kong trade. Keywords: China, dress, history, design, western Chinoiserie was originated from French when the maritime trade developed between China and France in 16th century. -
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ISABEL SUN CHAO AND CLAIRE CHAO REMEMBERING SHANGHAI A Memoir of Socialites, Scholars and Scoundrels PRAISE FOR REMEMBERING SHANGHAI “Highly enjoyable . an engaging and entertaining saga.” —Fionnuala McHugh, writer, South China Morning Post “Absolutely gorgeous—so beautifully done.” —Martin Alexander, editor in chief, the Asia Literary Review “Mesmerizing stories . magnificent language.” —Betty Peh-T’i Wei, PhD, author, Old Shanghai “The authors’ writing is masterful.” —Nicholas von Sternberg, cinematographer “Unforgettable . a unique point of view.” —Hugues Martin, writer, shanghailander.net “Absorbing—an amazing family history.” —Nelly Fung, author, Beneath the Banyan Tree “Engaging characters, richly detailed descriptions and exquisite illustrations.” —Debra Lee Baldwin, photojournalist and author “The facts are so dramatic they read like fiction.” —Heather Diamond, author, American Aloha 1968 2016 Isabel Sun Chao and Claire Chao, Hong Kong To those who preceded us . and those who will follow — Claire Chao (daughter) — Isabel Sun Chao (mother) ISABEL SUN CHAO AND CLAIRE CHAO REMEMBERING SHANGHAI A Memoir of Socialites, Scholars and Scoundrels A magnificent illustration of Nanjing Road in the 1930s, with Wing On and Sincere department stores at the left and the right of the street. Road Road ld ld SU SU d fie fie d ZH ZH a a O O ss ss U U o 1 Je Je o C C R 2 R R R r Je Je r E E u s s u E E o s s ISABEL’SISABEL’S o fie fie K K d d d d m JESSFIELD JESSFIELDPARK PARK m a a l l a a y d d y o o o o d d e R R e R R R R a a S S d d SHANGHAISHANGHAI -
Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 Pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004
2004; Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004 Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture Chinese Textiles Historic English Costumes and How to Make Them English Costume from the Seventeenth Through the Nineteenth Centuries Traditional Chinese costumes ä¸å›½ä¼ 统æœé¥° Costumes of the Greeks and Romans Ert 's Fashion Designs Nineteenth-century Costume and Fashion, Volume 6 The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid. 15  Women's dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China's history. Chinese Cheongsam  The cheongsam, or Qipao in Chinese, is evolved from a kind of ancient clothing of Manchu ethnic minority. In ancient times, it generally referred to long gowns worn by the people of Manchuria, Mongolia.  In the early years of the Qing Dynasty (16441911), long gowns featured collarless, narrow sleeves in the shape of a horse's hoof, buttons down the left front, four slits and a fitting waist. For thousands of years, traditional Chinese family structure was strictly patriarchal, with the father or eldest male as the head of the household as well as provider and guide. Women had little power in the family system, and the patriarch held absolute authority. Both tradition and laws upheld this patriarchal structure. Yang, Shaorong. "Traditional Chinese clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture." Long River Press, 2004. (Aug. The basic features of traditional Chinese clothing are cross-collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left and tying with sash. -
David Adjaye: Making Memory 02 February – 05 May 2019 the Design Museum
Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, Credit: Alan Karchmer David Adjaye: Making Memory 02 February – 05 May 2019 the Design Museum #MakingMemory @DesignMuseum The Design Museum presents a new exhibition that explores the role of monuments and memorials in the 21st century, through seven projects by celebrated British–Ghanaian architect, Sir David Adjaye OBE. The exhibition features projects such as the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C, the new National Cathedral of Ghana in Accra and the UK Holocaust Memorial and Learning Centre1 in London. Highlights include a full-scale section of the Sclera Pavilion for London Design Festival 2008, a replica library area from the Gwangju River Reading Room in South Korea, as well as inspiration materials including a sculpture by the early 20th-century Yoruba artist Olowe of Ise. In this exhibition, celebrated architect Sir David Adjaye OBE will examine the idea of the monument and present his thinking on how architecture and form are used as storytelling devices. Monuments are a record of who we are and are deeply ingrained in our psyche as a way of memorialising our 1 Led by Adjaye Associates, with Ron Arad Architects as Memorial Architect, and Gustafson Porter + Bowman as Landscape Architect. 1 triumphs and failures. However, the form that monuments take, and the way they are experienced, is constantly changing. This exhibition shows that contemporary monuments are no longer static objects in a field – plaques, statues or neo-classical sculptures – but are dynamic and complex spaces that serve a wider purpose. -
Sir David Adjaye and Cai Guo-Qiang to Receive 2020 Isamu Noguchi Award
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE [email protected] 718.204.7088 x 206 Sir David Adjaye and Cai Guo-Qiang to Receive 2020 Isamu Noguchi Award Award to be presented in a virtual celebration as part of The Noguchi Museum’s annual benefit on November 16, 2020 Sir David Adjaye OBE. Photo: Chris Schwagga Cai Guo-Qiang. Photo: Lin Yi, courtesy Cai Studio WHAT New York, NY (September 14, 2020) — The Noguchi Museum will present the 2020 Isamu Noguchi Award to architect Sir David Adjaye OBE and artist Cai Guo-Qiang in a virtual celebration on Monday, November 16, 2020, at 8 pm EST. Previously planned for May 19, 2020, the Museum’s annual benefit and Isamu Noguchi Award presentation was postponed due to the pandemic. In its seventh year, the Isamu Noguchi Award is conferred on individuals who share Noguchi’s spirit of innovation, global consciousness, and commitment to Eastern and Western cultural exchange. noguchi.org/award WHO Widely recognized as one of the leading architects of his generation, Ghanaian-British architect Sir David Adjaye OBE has received international acclaim for his impact on the field. Adjaye, who was born in Tanzania to Ghanaian parents in 1966, cites influences ranging from contemporary art, music, and science, to African art forms and the civic life of cities. In 2000, he founded Adjaye Associates, which today has projects spanning the globe. In 2017, he was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II. 1 of 3 Adjaye is widely viewed as an architect with an artist’s sensibility and vision. Also like Noguchi, he is committed to a multidisciplinary practice, with projects ranging from private houses, bespoke furniture collections, product design, exhibitions, and temporary pavilions to major arts centers, civic buildings, and master plans. -
Trabajo Final De Gra Do
TRABAJO FINAL DE GRA DO DISEÑO S DE MODA INSPIRADOS EN EL ESTILO CHINOISERIE Presentado por Pan Xinyun Tutor: Rodrigo Pérez Galindo Facultat de Belles Arts de San Carles Grado en Bellas Artes Curso 201 3-2014 Y Diseños de moda inspirados en el estilo chinoiserie. Pan Xinyun 2 RESUMEN Y PALABRAS CLAVES. El presente trabajo final de Grado en Bellas Artes consiste en una reflexión personal sobre el diseño de moda inspirado por la indumentaria tradicional china y su evolución a lo largo de los siglos y las dinastías que han gobernado China y que han ejercido gran influencia en la sociedad de cada época, en lo que a vestimenta se refiere. Esta reflexión personal ha sido materializada en forma de diversos diseños de indumentaria con características propias del estilo oriental. Tanto los diseñadores occidentales como los orientales han hecho a lo largo de la historia diseños similares inspirados en el ¨orientalismo¨ o más concretamente de estilo “chinoiserie ”. Tomando como referencia sus colecciones así como los estilos de moda que han tenido éxito a lo largo de la historia de China, se ha elaborado una colección de indumentaria que incluye tanto elementos tradicionales de la cultura asiática como diseños contemporáneos y actuales de acuerdo a las necesidades del presente mercado tanto asiático como occidental. Defino mi colección como parte exclusiva del llamado Prêt-à-porter (listo para llevar), de buena calidad y hecha a medida pero que tiene como objetivo principal el poder llegar al público, puesto que no olvidemos que el objetivo central del proyecto es difundir este tipo de diseño. -
Award Steering Committee
Aga Khan Award for Architecture 2 0 1 6 AWARD STEERING COMMITTEE His Highness the Aga Khan, Chairman. David Adjaye is founder and principal architect of Adjaye Associates, which was established in June 2000 and currently has offices in London, New York, and Accra. He was born in Tanzania in 1966. After gaining a Bachelor of Architecture from London South Bank University, he graduated with a master’s degree in architecture from the Royal College of Art in 1993, where he won the RIBA Bronze Medal. His completed works include: the Sugar Hill affordable housing project in Harlem, New York City (2015); two community libraries in Washington DC (2012); the Moscow School of Management SKOLKOVO (2010); The Nobel Peace Centre in Oslo (2005); the Museum of Contemporary Art in Denver (2007); and the Idea Stores (libraries) in London’s Tower Hamlets (2005). The practice is currently engaged in the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C, due to open in 2016. Mr. Adjaye’s belief in working together with partners has led to a number of notable collaborations on both building projects and exhibitions. His photographic survey of 52 cities across the continent of Africa, Urban Africa, exhibited at the Design Museum London (2010), has shifted the understanding of Africa’s metropolitan centres. His first midcareer retrospective exhibition, entitledMaking Place: The Architecture of David Adjaye, is currently running at the Art Institute of Chicago. Mr. Adjaye is currently the John C. Portman Design Critic in Architecture at Harvard University. He is a RIBA Chartered Member, an AIA Honorary Fellow, a Senior Fellow of the Design Futures Council and a Foreign Honorary Member of the American Academy of Arts and Letters.