Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal

March 2018 Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Council Contents

Introduction...... 2 Part One Part Three Conservation Areas...... 2 Historical Development, General Planning Guidance Purpose of a Conservation Area Character and Boundary Local Development Plan ...... 22 Appraisal...... 2 Historical Development...... 4 New Development Supplementary Using this document...... 3 Archaeological Interest ...... 10 Guidance ...... 22 Character Areas...... 10 Article 4 Directions...... 23

Part Two Preservation and Enhancement Part Four Key Challenges...... 18 Background Historical Information Building Repair and Reuse...... 19 The Thread of Paisley...... 24 Gap Sites...... 20 Paisley’s Protagonists and Principal Public Areas...... 20 Buildings...... 26 Summary of Issues...... 21 Conclusion...... 21 References and useful contacts...... 30

Prepared by The Heritage Place. Based on earlier drafts by Renfrewshire Council. Survey work undertaken Autumn 2015. Updated by Renfrewshire Council, Summer 2017.

| 1 Introduction

Renfrewshire Council is committed to the regeneration of its town centres. Paisley’s community has at its historic core outstanding architecture and a wealth of cultural assets and collections to help drive the regeneration of a vibrant town Council to formulate and publish to promote and support a sustainable economy. This proposals for their preservation document provides an appraisal of the character of the and enhancement. Local residents and property owners also have a Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area (Figure 1), outlining major role to play in protecting its unique character and distinguishing the assets that set and enhancing the character and it apart. The Conservation Area extends from Wellmeadow appearance of the Conservation Area by ensuring that properties are Street to the west, down to Canal Station (Causeyside Street) regularly maintained and original to the south, out to and Gauze Street at the features retained. east and to Gilmour Street Station and the boundary of Purpose of a Conservation Area Oakshaw to the north. Appraisal The purpose of an appraisal of the area unacceptable, but care must be taken Conservation Areas is to define its important features, its to ensure that the new development salient and significant characteristics Conservation areas were first will not harm the character or and to identify unique qualities. introduced by the Civic Amenities appearance of the area. Act 1967. The Planning (Listed This is the starting point for deciding Buildings and Conservation Areas) Conservation Area designation brings what should be protected and () Act 1997 provides the the following works under planning enhanced by planning authorities, current legislative framework for the control: residents and property owners, and designation of conservation areas. Demolition of buildings what problems need to be addressed. The Act defines each as an area • It informs effective management of ‘of special architectural or historic • Removal of, or work to, trees the historic fabric of the town. interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve • Development involving small house The appraisal explains the area’s or enhance’. All planning authorities extensions, roof alterations, stone historic development, its special are required by this Act to determine cleaning or painting of the exterior, townscape and architectural interest, which parts of their area merit provision of hard surfaces, and and includes consideration of Conservation status. Renfrewshire • Additional control over satellite significant buildings and open spaces currently has 8 conservation areas dishes. which establish the character of the varying in character from this town area. centre, to elegant suburbs, planned Where a development would, in the or industrial villages, an historic opinion of the planning authority, The appraisal provides a context weaving centre and a commuter affect the character or appearance for the assessment of development dormitory. of a conservation area, the proposals within the area, identifies application for planning permission opportunities and priorities for In a Conservation Area the will be advertised in the local press enhancement, and sets out the policy architectural interest applies both providing an opportunity for public framework for the determination to the buildings and to the spaces comment. Views expressed are taken of development proposals. This between them. Planning legislation into account by the local planning appraisal is supplementary to the and policy is aimed at maintaining authority when making a decision on policies for Paisley Town Centre the integrity of the area and the application. and its built heritage set out in the promoting its special character. Renfrewshire Local Development Conservation Area status does not In order to protect the Conservation Plan (see Part 3, General Planning mean that new development is Areas, their designation requires the Guidance).

2 | Introduction

Using this document

The appraisal follows the recommendations set out in the Scottish Government’s PAN71: Conservation Area Management (2004). This sets out a series of issues which should be assessed in order to determine and thereafter manage the special character of a conservation area. 2 • A description of the general It is recognised that the successful location, geography, and geology management of conservation areas of the area. can only be achieved with the • A brief historical overview setting support and input from stakeholders out the development of the town. and in particular local residents and property owners. • An appraisal of key townscape features. Figure 1: (above) Paisley Town Centre • An assessment of the overarching Conservation Area character of the conservation area Figure 2: View of Paisley Abbey Identifcation of key issues in the 3 • Figure 3: Timothy Pont’s plan of Paisley future management of the site.

| 3 Part One

Historical From St Mirin’s church to the great From dependent village to Development, Abbey and its village market burgh Character and Paisley is sited on the White Cart The village was made a burgh with Boundary River at its highest navigable point trading privileges in 1488: the original from the Clyde and the lowest point ecclesiastical village was enlarged where it could be forded, on the and a planned burgh was established important route between the south- with the right to hold a market, Historical Development west and central belt of Scotland. held at the Cross. The construction As a result of its topography and a St Mirin is said to have built a chapel of the first bridge over the Cart (St long and fragmented history, Paisley at Seedhill on the east bank in the 6th James) about 1490 helped make town centre has great complexity and century, and Benedictine monks who it the principal market centre of variety concentrated in a relatively were granted lands here in 1163 built Renfrewshire. But the closure of small area. Even individual streets the abbey nearby (Figure 2). Their the monastery in the Reformation rarely have one consistent character monastic precinct occupied most of (1560) ended this stage of Paisley’s and most have exceptional fabric and the level east bank, so the dependent development. When the monastic an interesting story to tell. village grew up subsequently at way of life was swept away, with it Causeyside, between two burns on one of the main drivers for the town’s This brief history of the town is the more undulating west bank and economic growth disappeared. provided to assist the understanding next to a ford close to the Abbey. of why and how the town came to (Figure 3) This established the have its present form and character, distinct character of the east and and to help to make an assessment of west sides of the town. Without the the elements which make it today. legal rights and privileges of burgh Paisley’s history can be outlined status, it did not (indeed could not) as having fve distinct periods of expand greatly, nor have a distinct development separated by four economic presence. In the later periods of stagnation. The breaks medieval period Paisley was a major in this history have created a town pilgrimage destination. centre which is irregular in layout, has areas of contrasting character, and buildings which often differ from their neighbours in scale and character.

Plan 3: William Roy’s military map, 1754, showing New St and Orchard St added.

Figure 4: William Roy’s military map, 1754, Figure 5: View from Saucel Hill by John Slezer, 1693 showing New St and Orchard St added. Old Tollbooth Bridge Abbey River Plate 1: View from Saucel Hill by John Slezer, 1693.

and Causeyside Street. Starting with New Street in with slates. The only surviving landmark public building 4 | 1724, new streets were laid out incrementally without of this period is the High Church (Oakshaw Trinity) on the any overall plan, adding to the irregularity of the street east end of the long Oakshaw hill above the town centre. pattern (see Plans 3 and 4). The only new public open space created was County The old thatched cottages at the heads of the long Square, laid out in front of the County Buildings (1820, medieval burgage plots were redeveloped one by one demolished c 1971). The construction of the Plan 4: William Semple’s map, 1787, showing many with two to four storey buildings and the back courts to Johnstone canal in 1810 and the railway in 1840 additional streets laid out since Roy’s map and built up. Most of these new Georgian buildings were defined the centre from its southern and northern development extending along them. modest, built with local buff sandstone and roofed satellites (see Plate 2).

Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area 6 Character Appraisal Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Rapid expansion to major cottages or two-storey houses in the 18th century included the textile town with shop or booth at ground and knocking down of abbey walls in 1760 family accommodation above, were and works to the nave in 1788-9. The opening up of trade with the redeveloped and the back courts Empire following the Act of Union Like many towns in the later 18th built up. Most of the new Georgian in 1707 saw a rapid expansion of century, Paisley began resurfacing buildings were modest, built with manufacturing, especially of textiles. roads and providing better drainage. local buff sandstone and roofed with Trades incorporations sprang to life in slates. The Town Council in 1733 The ancient gardens to the north- the town. Paisley’s population grew decried thatch and timber fronts but east of the monastery were laid out faster than anywhere else in Scotland some remained as late as 1900. New on a regular plan (known as the New until, by 1820 it was the third largest Street was laid out in 1724 to cope Town) thanks to the Earl of Abercorn settlement in the nation. Muslin and with the rapid expansion of the town. from 1781. New public open spaces silk production started around 1710, Orchard Street followed in 1746. were created. A Police Act of 1806 assisted by the free trade joining that set out to modernise the centre. of linen in the town’s output. The The most prominent public building This included the demolition of old population in 1695 was 2200 but of this period is the High Church buildings in Moss Row and their grew by 1755 to 6800. By 1801, it (1756, now Oakshaw Trinity) on uniform replacement with elegant had risen to 24,324 and by 1821 to the east end of the long Oakshaw houses, shops and a warehouse. Orr 47,000. hill above the town centre whose Square was laid out from 1808 on the towering steeple was added in 1770. Development extended out along site of the former almshouse. County The Laigh Kirk (now the Arts Centre) the old routes into the village - Square was created in front of the on lower ground in New Street is the High Street, Moss Street and County Buildings (1820, demolished however older, opening in 1738 and Causeyside Street. The irregularity circa 1971). the second oldest church in Paisley of the street pattern followed from after the Abbey. The church presence The construction of the Glasgow the fossilisation of major routes into in the town became considerable to Johnstone canal in 1810 and the the burgh in the 15th century. Starting with the Middle Parish Church on with New Street in 1724, new arrival of the railway in 1840 divided Church Hill designed by Samuel streets were laid out in a systematic the centre from its southern and Henning from 1789 and the Gaelic response to the needs of the growing northern satellites but considerably Church, Oakshaw built from 1793. town (Figures 4 and 5). improved communications (Figures Plan 3: William Roy’s military map, 1754, showing New The town boundaries remained those 6 and 7). St and Orchard StThe added. long medieval burgage plots, of the Parish but divided into three by headed with either thatched 1781. Development around the Abbey

Old Tollbooth Bridge Abbey River Plate 1: View from Saucel Hill by John Slezer, 1693. and Causeyside Street. Starting with New Street in with slates. The only surviving landmark public building 1724, new streets were laid out incrementally without of this period is the High Church (Oakshaw Trinity) on the any overall plan, adding to the irregularity of the street east end of the long Oakshaw hill above the town centre. pattern (see Plans 3 and 4). The only new public open space created was County

The old thatched cottages at the heads of the long Square, laid out in front of the County Buildings (1820, High Church Tollbooth Jail & Abbey Canal Figure 6: William Semple’s map, 1787, Figure 7: View from Saucel Hill by Clark, 1825, with Bridgecanal to right and High Church to left. medieval burgage plots were redeveloped one by one demolished c 1971). The construction of the Glasgow Plan 4: William Semple’sshowing many map, additional 1787, showing streets laid many out Plate 2: View from Saucel Hill by Clark, 1825, with canal to right and High Church to left. with two to four storey buildings and the back courts to Johnstone canal in 1810 and the railway in 1840 additional streetssince laid Roy’s out mapsince and Roy’s development map and extending along them. development extending along them. built up. Most of these new Georgian buildings were defined the centre from its southern and northern Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area 7 Character Appraisal modest, built with local buff sandstone and roofed satellites (see Plate 2). | 5

Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area 6 Character Appraisal Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Late Victorian and early twentieth opened in 1875 providing a more century rebuilding direct route to Causeyside Street. Peddie and Kinnear, masters in such Slow recovery following the re-planning, provided Paisley with a Napoleonic Wars and the blow fne run of tenements at the western of a further trade recession in the edge, as signifcant as their Edinburgh town in 1842, brought years of equivalent (Figure 10). The necessary severe depression and growth only clearances created the site for Dunn resumed in the 1860s. Steam- Square, laid out by James Donald in power had arrived at the mills from 1894. the 1820s. The economy came to be dominated by larger scale 8 Improvements to Causeyside Street manufacturing, notably in the created a handsome approach to the thread works of the Coats and Clark Figure 8: High Street in 1906 showing town centre from the Canal Street families to the west and east of the awnings and regularity station (1885). Almost all of the four- centre. The one exception was the Figure 9: Causeyside Street showing Paisley’s storey tenements were developed formation of County Square to give characterful mix of building periods, Georgian separately giving an interesting an appropriately grand setting for and Victorian. variety to the street scene. The County Buildings in 1818. Figure 10: 2-10 St Mirren Street most prominent features of these tenements are their corners, which By the second half of the 19th of King Solomon in a niche at frst were often given special treatment century, Paisley’s wealthy floor, and the Liberal Club (1886, No. such as round or facetted towers industrialists were determined to 32) add to the mix, with shops at and fnialled ogee-caps, marking the improve the appearance of the ground floor. The Beaux Arts YMCA junctions and creating distinguished streets and buildings of their town, (1908) set back on the south side, streetscape (Figure 11). and instituted a Town Improvement brought Edwardian vivacity and Scheme. To cope with increasing continued the characteristic diversity The character of the town was most traffic most of the streets in the of Paisley’s main retail street. dramatically changed by the erection centre were widened from 1862. of several large public buildings The High Street’s Tolbooth was taken The urban renewal included the in contrasting architectural styles down in 1821 and its tower in 1870. demolition of the north side of (Figure 12), notably the John Neilson the High Street in the 1880s and At times the rebuilding was more Institution (Charles Wilson, 1852) their replacement with commercial piecemeal and created diverse and the classical Museum (John chambers which rivalled their best streetscapes, making the irregularity Honeyman, 1868-1871), both by contemporaries in Glasgow and and mixed quality of the retained Glaswegian architects. Honeyman provided a high quality streetscape Georgian facades more apparent was also responsible for Paisley’s (Figure 8). The Masonic Hall (dated (Figure 9). The traffic bottleneck of Coats Observatory, which graced 1879, No. 20), evidenced by a statue the medieval St Mirren Street was Oakshaw’s quiet streets in 1881. The

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monumental George Clark Town Hall, designed by William Lynn of Belfast (1879-82) provided an appropriate civic centre for Scotland’s sixth most populous town. Statues representing the seasons by James Young of Glasgow, adorn the campanile. The great public buildings and their concentration within a small area gave the centre the character of a city more on a par with Glasgow than any 11 other Scottish town. Most of these later great buildings were slotted into Figure 11: Montage of Paisley’s eye-catching corner towers. the existing fabric with little change to their surroundings. Figure 12: Montage of Paisley’s later Victorian landmarks (John Neilson Institution, Museum, Town Hall, Coats Observatory) The Italianate Churches continued Figure 13: The Coats Memorial Church, 1894. to proliferate, with Oakshaw Hill a favoured location, and the north transept, choir and massive tower interpretation of perpendicular gothic The Abbey was in the later nineteenth were added to the Abbey nave in four on a diffcult corner site. Had its century the focus of a sustained stages (between 1862 and 1928). The belfry been built it would have added campaign of restoration. This involved Post Offce Directory 1891-92 lists 20 further distinction to the skyline works to the nave and partial repair churches within the boundaries of the of the town. In 1908, Watson and of the transepts by James Salmon, current Conservation Area but more Salmond designed the vast Methodist 1859-62, and then further restoration were to come. Central Halls in Gauze Street, their by Robert Rowand Anderson of the In 1894, the Thomas Coats Memorial scale showing the strength of the transepts and the central tower. Baptist Church a soaring monument Methodist faith in Paisley. Between 1912 and 1922, Peter McGregor Chalmers was responsible in outstanding French Gothic (Figure Paisley Cross was formed by the for rebuilding the choir area of the 13), (won in competition in 1885 demolition of a block of High Street Abbey, and two sides of the cloister. by the eminent architect, Hippolyte tenements between Moss and Robert Lorimer then continued until J Blanc) was gifted to the town in Gilmour Street in 1906 as part of 1928 altering Chalmers work, vaulting honour of its namesake. ‘The United town improvements. The Square the choir and adding the upper stage Free Church employed W D McLennan became known as Polson Square, to the tower. in 1907 to design St Matthew’s in honour of its sponsor, Mrs John Church in Gordon Street (originally St Polson of Westmount. George’s): an influential Art Nouveau

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The clearance of the run down streets urban fabric. Paisley College of by landscaping, it served as a neutral surrounding the Abbey (1873-1920s) Technology, 1963 (now the University though over-scaled backdrop to the (Figures 14 and 15) was part of the of the West of Scotland) opened a Abbey. Demolition of the castellated town improvements (secured by an wide gap in the west end High Street Old County Buildings and jail (1818 Act of 1877) and exposed the newly frontage and added a bulky six-storey and 1850) flanking County Place in restored building. Part of The Place tower into views of the Oakshaw 1969-1971 made way for the Piazza of Paisley had been used as a tavern skyline from the south. (1968-70) shopping mall with three before its pre-Reformation west long office slab blocks and a towering The ambitious Civic Centre (1966- wing was demolished in 1874. The multi-storey car park built over the 71) in Cotton Street replaced yet new open setting partly restored the river from St James Bridge to the more of the New Town and the contrasting characters of the town on railway viaduct. the two banks of the river. notable Tontine building. Softened

After the interruption of the First World War, some of the pre-war changes were continued, notably the completion of the Abbey, clearance of the buildings around it, and the widening of streets from The Cross down to the Town Hall and Forbes Place. The Housing (Scotland) Act 1935 brought necessary improvements in congestion, relieving Paisley’s from a near record 32% overcrowding.

Tenement construction was not resumed and no further city scale buildings were commissioned. However, the architectural sophistication of several new additions showed a continuing pride and originality, most notably the Cenotaph (Robert Lorimer and Meredith Williams, 1922) (Figure 16) and the Russell Institute (James Steel Maitland, 1926). 14 As old industries closed down, the high chimneys were removed from the skyline. Town centre slum residents were rehoused on suburban council housing estates. Manufacturing decline set in seriously in the 1950s, and service industries became dominant.

The town centre was adapted to this by three major comprehensive redevelopment schemes which replaced large areas of the inherited 15 16

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Conservation and adaptation, by being adeptly fitted into the High through heritage-led regeneration. 1970s - present Street-Causeyside Street-New Street Shopfront improvements have block behind retained historic facades returned some of Paisley’s rich The damage which the comprehensive and new ‘contextual’ ones. While streetscape interest. (Nos 35, 36, redevelopment approach was doing giving additional modern shopping 38, 41, 44 and 62 Causeyside Street) to the historic towns and cities of accommodation, the two indoor (Figure 17). Extensive repair has Britain was recognised in the 1960s, shopping centres made the old main brought T G Abercrombie’s 1903 as was the contrasting contribution street shops less viable, and increased tenement at 43 Causeyside Street to made by historic buildings and areas the problem faced today of retail a sustainable future (Figure 18). to economic regeneration. Starting business loss. Works to the public realm and in 1971, buildings of architectural circulation routes have provided a interest were protected from Although known about from more appropriate backdrop for the demolition and unsympathetic Victorian period, the Abbey Drain exceptional architecture, creating a alteration. (under the old grounds of the pleasing environment. The Council Abbey, the Conservation Area’s The Cross and Oakshaw were has since secured funding to deliver only Scheduled Monument) was a further Townscape Heritage and designated as Conservation Areas in not opened until the 1990s. It is 1975 and amalgamated and extended Conservation Area Regeneration fnely built in stone with a vaulted Scheme with a particular focus on in 1980, to an area which today roof and arguably the fnest of its has 101 listed buildings of which High Street, New Street, Shuttle type in Scotland. The excavation of Street and George Place. Public realm 14 are Category A. The three major extremely informative artefacts from 1960s redevelopment schemes were improvements are also planned the drain has highlighted that other within this area. excluded from the Conservation Area. signifcant fnds may potentially lie Oakshaw, where the John Neilson along the burns around the town and In 2014, the Council committed to a Institution stood derelict from 1971 the White Cart River. targeted plan for the regeneration of was picked out for major public the town in the Paisley Town Centre Following the extension of the Heritage Regeneration Strategy and investment in 1985, a process which Conservation Area in 2008, the resulted in a tripling of the number of Paisley Town Centre Action Plan to be Council, with additional funding realised over the next 10 to 15 years dwellings on the hill, most of them in from the Heritage Lottery Fund former redundant listed buildings. (Paisley: The Untold Story.) This aims and Historic Scotland has delivered to draw together the town’s history, A new approach to redevelopment a successful Townscape Heritage character and story to revitalise the was set by the Paisley Urban Design Initiative and Conservation Area town and release the potential of its Regeneration Scheme focused on Framework adopted by the Council in unique selling point. 1990. The Paisley (shopping) Centre the Causeyside area of the town development (1992) followed this centre aiming to support investment

Opposite Figure 14: 2nd edition OS, 1893 Figure 15: View from Saucel Hill c 1890, with the Town Hall in the centre and Abbey nave to its right Figure 16: The Cenotaph. Robert Lorimer (architect), Meredith Williams (sculptor). This page Figure 17: 41 Causeyside Street shopfront (restored)

Figure 18: 43 Causeyside Street, T G 17 18 Abercrombie (restored)

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Archaeological Interest Character Areas Townscape Detail

In an historic town such as Paisley The Conservation Area has three Paisley Town Centre is rich in with its rich evolution and an main contrasting areas: the Town architectural detail and skilled early settlement in the core of the Hall-Abbey-riverside area, Oakshaw craftsmanship. In particular, Conservation Area, it is important to hill, and the urban shopping streets. attention should be paid to: remember the underground potential This last area can be divided into • Carved stonework (Figure 19) in taking forward any development. A four parts, making six areas in which • Wrought and cast ironwork defned Historic Settlement polygon certain characteristics or features (Figure 20) in the Historic Environment Record predominate. Each has several • Corner towers (Figure 11) (HER) recognises the concentration important and memorable buildings. • Sculpture (Figure 49) of this built environment asset, The Areas of Intervention identifed in Conservation Area Boundary including the area of the Abbey the Heritage Regeneration Strategy drain which has provided an insight are enveloped within these, being the The Cross and Oakshaw Conservation into pre-Reformation monastic life. West End Cultural Quarter, the High Areas were designated in 1975 and In addition to this, the HER also Street and the Abbey Quarter. amalgamated and extended in 1980. includes other sites of potential The three major 1960s redevelopment Following the successful delivery of archaeological signifcance where schemes were excluded from the the THI/CARS Project in Causeyside, remains may survive in small pockets Conservation Area (Figure 1). or at depth, such as the prehistoric the TH.CARS2 project is being hillfort site under and around the delivered in the High Street area In 2008, the area was extended former John Neilson Institute. linking the cultural quarters and to the south-east ring road and developing the economic potential of re-named the Paisley Town Centre Paisley’s exceptional character. Conservation Area. This has a clear edge with the former fire station building and the St Matthews Church recognised in the extension as belonging to the heart of the town. Although interrupted by the ring road, the late Victorian character of Causeyside Street as far as the Canal Street railway line is strong where both sides of the street were redeveloped with tenements. The Conservation Area has some obvious boundary features to define its edges in the Cotton Street buildings to the 19 east, the Piazza, railway viaduct and foot of Oakshaw hill to the north and west. The enlarged Conservation Area now extends over 41 hectares. It contains 122 Listed Buildings of which 14 are Category A, 79 are Category B and 29 are Category C. There is one Scheduled Monument.

Figure 19: Carved stone panels/datestones 20 Figure 20: Decorative iron work

10 | Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

The Town Hall - Abbey Area front can be seen as it was designed to impress approaching medieval This area’s predominant features pilgrims fording the river. are its two contrasting monumental buildings and the green spaces The Abbey with the Place of Paisley and the river across which they are form the eye-catching landmarks viewed. While the Town Hall relates from Forbes Place, River Cart to the Cross and High Street, this Walk and Abbey Bridge, where not area is otherwise a quiet backwater, excessively screened by trees. The protected from the impact of ring definition of the wider space to the road traffic to the east by the high south-west of the Abbey, and the walls of the Cotton Street buildings. special character of the riverside are 21 weakened somewhat by the gap site The Abbey and the Town Hall relate in Forbes Place and the single storey obliquely to each with their sides former industrial building on Bridge defining the spaces facing each Street. other’s fronts. The green area which the Town Hall overlooks is the The open space between the river town’s oldest graveyard. However, and the Abbey and Place of Paisley its character has been changed has potential to enhance the historic by laying flat the gravestones and importance of the buildings. The allowing them to become covered by greenspace could be re-landscaped to turf, and by removal of surrounding provide a unifed public space suited walls and railings. The presence of to the stature of the Abbey. the gravestones, lack of paths and 22 the shade cast by the Abbey inhibits The presence of the river, shielded its use for relaxation, closer viewing by the high embankment wall, could of the Abbey, and taking short cuts be accentuated in a fresh design along its north side. to revive the town centre’s former relationship with the river which To the north, the space in front of is hidden except in the graveyard the Town Hall is well defined by the beside the Town Hall. Under this Central Methodist Halls (Figure 21) area lies one of Scotland’s best and the former Arnott’s, but less preserved monastic drains, over so further east. The Cotton Street which were sited major buildings of building is too distant to define this the monastery (Figure 23). space well. The Town Hall’s imposing Only Gauze, Lawn, Silk, and entrance front commands the view 23 down Gauze Street from as far off as Smithhills Streets remain of the the end of Glasgow Road. pattern of the late 18th century New Town built on the Abbey grounds, Figure 21: Central Methodist Halls, Watson and Salmond. The contrasting west front of the with nine original buildings and the Town Hall rises sheer from the river’s later Mission Hall by T G Abercrombie Figure 22: Town Hall and Abbey from Dunn Square edge; its twin towers providing on the area’s buffer zone. dramatic vertical features which Figure 23: Approximate lines of medieval drain and abbey precinct wall. dominate views downstream from the Abbey Bridge and Forbes Place.

The Town Hall (Figure 22) screens the Abbey from the bustle of the Cross, and it is only from the end of Causeyside Street that its west

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Oakshaw

Oakshaw provides the dominant skyline for Paisley Town Centre as seen from outside the area, especially from the north and east (Figures 24 and 25). From here it appears as a wooded hill, topped with a line of the varied silhouettes of towers, spires and domes.

Set apart from the rest of the town by 24 the steepness and narrowness of the seven lanes up to it, Oakshaw Street of the architectural interest. Selective Only in a few places surprisingly retains its ancient narrow width and surgery would be welcome. distant views open over the town winding alignment along the ridge of below. Although in the past Oakshaw The north side has well-spaced 19th the hill, limiting views up and down has been the site of three schools century detached villas, two small the street. It is enclosed by informal and nine churches, the conversion blocks of flats of a similar width and lines of buildings and high garden of seven of these to housing and the three former churches. The south side walls overhung by trees on the north closing of the road to through traffic has mainly terraced two-storey villas side, giving the street an intimate has reinforced the sleepy residential and three to four-storey tenements, pedestrian character. Several trees character of the area. Emphasising trees in whose large back garden add have reached a maturity that causes the access possible through Orr to views of the hill from the south. the area’s seclusion to be threatening Street would encourage pedestrian and deprives the pedestrian of vistas through traffc from the High Street and extend the welcome of the area.

Oakshaw has an exceptional concentration of category A-listed buildings, each of a very different character. Other buildings range between one to four storeys, and the architecture is varied. Sandstone predominates and almost all roofs are slated, giving coherence to views up to the hill and across from the Observatory balcony. The new infill 25 development between Church Hill and Orr Street fits comfortably into this pattern.

The public realm has been respectfully detailed with setted roads and flagstones. There is also (as throughout the town centre) some exceptionally fne ironwork distinguishing the quarter and requiring regular repair and attention (Figure 26).

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The Cross and High Street (Figure 27), is a fne Art Deco The east part of the High Street statement with faience cladding, a maintains a roughly even width, Though radically altered over the notable example by Henry Wilson of and, with three and four-storey centuries, Paisley Cross retains its Leeds, the architect to the Montague buildings, it has good proportions character as the centre or hub of Burton tailoring chain. and urban character. Improvements the town. It is a busy junction of five made to the public realm encourage routes, lying between the indoor High Street runs along the side of footfall and it retains its identity as shopping centres, the main railway Oakshaw Hill, rising gently as far as the town’s prime shopping street station, bus stops and the university. Townhead Terrace where it curves but this is fragile. Vacancies and Public realm improvements have out of sight becoming Wellmeadow disproportionate shop fascias pose a signifcantly revived the area’s stature Street. It retains something of the threat to the exceptional chambers and a concerted programme to enclosure of a medieval high street, that line the north side.(Figure 29) regenerate the exceptional historic with four of the five streets linked Details such as the ironwork parapet fabric of the area is underway. allowing only narrow views out to to No 18 merit careful attention. The left and right. Though quite modest The openness of the space to the Liberal Club (Figure 30) turns the in length, the High Street is given south-east over Dunn Square affords steep corner adeptly and acts as an a grander scale by the view in the views out to the Town Hall and even eye-stopper from New Street. The distance of the crown spire of the the Anchor Finishing Mill, but it is reinstatement of the former galleried Coats Memorial Church at one end still defined by the way the land and fnialed cupola which crowned and the presence of the Town Hall slopes away outside the space. The the tower and decorative ventilators at the other (Figure 28). The Coats 1875 tenements at the head of St to the roof would return the elegance Church, rich in detail and material, Mirren Street provide an outstanding of this High Street group and echo forms a ftting close to the West End backdrop. Diagonally opposite, the the historic signifcance of the club. Cultural Quarter. former Burton’s building (1929-30)

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Opposite page: Figure 24: Oakshaw skyline Figure 25: Oakshaw buildings Figure 26: Ironwork details This page: Figure 27: Stone carved lintel (Burton’s rear doorway) Figure 28: Aerial view, Town Hall Figure 29: Regeneration on High Street 30 Figure 30: The Liberal Club – then and now)

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31 32

Figure 31: High Street Moss Street - County Square Figure 32: Townhead Terrace tenements Moss Street from the Cross to Figure 33: Former TA building County Place retains the pedestrian Figure 34: Moss Street from the Cross scale of Georgian Paisley. This part may be the only late medieval street which was not widened. opposite the Museum. It provides an The facades are very mixed, with important enclave and distinctively Georgian predominating. The former suburban mix to the area (Figure 32). Empire Music Hall at Nos 8-10 with restoration could be appreciated as 33 A development similar to a west wing the last lay public building to balancing the library extension of survive from the Georgian period From New Street / Church Hill 1904 (as originally intended) would (Figure 34). to Storie Street the High Street strengthen this key public building’s The rest of Moss Street is another suffers from the reduction of presence in relation to the tenements unbalanced wide Victorian some four-storey tenements to opposite, close the long view up thoroughfare, with individually two storeys. A signifcant gap site the High Street, and form a visual designed four-storey tenements at 55 High Street, together with gateway to the last section of the on one side. At the north end, No vacant upper floors, small shops, High Street. 30 Moss Street is a fne French and some unsympathetic modern Beyond Townhead Terrace the High Renaissance design and with its redevelopments require investment Street changes character to be an contrasting polychrome brick to reinforce the street lines. open setting for large detached neighbour No 22 to the south The fine late 19th century four-storey buildings: on the north side the (cleverly answering the red sandstone tenements between Storie Street former Territorial Army (TA) Building of its other neighbour, the former and the university have a remarkable (Figure 33) and Coats Memorial coherence and urbanity Church, set back with landscaped (Figure 31), and complement the frontages. The widening of the elegant museum opposite. roadway in front of the university draws attention to the blank severed Townhead Terrace, built on the site gable of Townhead’s last tenement of the home of Christopher North, but new landscaping has brought is a fne street of mirrored, four- a positive change of contrast. The storey, red sandstone tenements. colourful Scottish Renaissance TA It is a single development of about Building sits hauntingly, unoccupied 1900, distinguished by the ripples and in need of investment. Beyond, of canted bays that articulate their Wellmeadow Street leads into the 34 unity, and an important focus directly town’s western suburbs.

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Causeyside Street - Gordon Street

Causeyside Street with St Mirren Street is equal to the High Street in importance to the structure of the town centre. It has continuity of character over a greater length, a greater width, and a longer run of shop fronts, interrupted only by the ring road at Gordon Street. Imaginative re-working of the public 35 realm has brought a new freshness to the street and eye-catching detail capturing the town’s formative industries (Figure 37).

Looking down St Mirren Street the city scale and pride of the restored former Co-operative building at 25-29 Causeyside Street impresses, while the entrance to the Paisley Centre and bus stops makes this a busy area (Figure 38). Approaching from the south, Dunn Square can be seen 36 from as far away as Gordon Street, but what attracts attention is the Figure 35: Surviving historic shopfronts (James Harvie, Moss St and Wm Houston, High St). Russell Institute’s richly embellished Figure 36: County Square – former Post Offce corner entrance façade (Figure 39). This is one of no less than ten eye- Post Offce), forms a characterful west side. The square has been catching corners up the street’s entire stretch of streetscape on the east. divided between vehicular traffic length, eight of them belonging to This is weakened on the west by and pedestrians presenting some tenements. two gap sites, the car park against uncertain priorities for those arriving the railway viaduct, once occupied by train. Being level and sheltered, The whole of the street has been by a four-storey block and No. 23 it is the most useful space in the widened, with the east side from Moss Street awaiting redevelopment town centre for outdoor events and Forbes Place to Gordon Street and with buildings of similar height to activities. both sides from there to the station its neighbours. It boasts the historic tobacconist shop front at No 20 Figure 37: Causeyside Street pavement carvings which sets an example in scale and detail. (Figures 35 and 36)

County Square is well defined by contrasting buildings on three sides - County Place, the former Post Office, and the railway station and viaduct. However, the Piazza is set too far back to contain the space, allowing it to bleed away into Central Road and Gilmour Street, where Gilmour House fails to relate to interesting 37 mainly Georgian elevations on its

| 15 Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

redeveloped in the late 19th century Matthews Church (Figure 40). with individually designed four- Bridge Street makes a poor link and storey tenements. All but one of the approach to the Abbey area, and the nine side streets have themselves wider setting here does not make a been widened giving views out to positive contribution to this sector or left and right, notably of the former to the Abbey. Free Renaissance Fire Station down Johnston Street and Gordon Street. Development of a river frontage similar to Forbes Place could further The strong character of the street define and protect the Abbey’s established by the four-storey precinct from the impact of ring 38 tenements is contrasted by the road traffic without blocking any more historic two and three-storey important views of the Abbey, the buildings on the west side from Oakshaw skyline or Finishing Mill. It Laigh Kirk Lane to Canal Street for could return an active engagement which shopfront improvements are with the river in contrast with the returning character. Recent reduction high banks by the Town Hall and its in the oversized shop fascias has submersion under the Piazza. lessened competition for attention and enabled the simple Georgian character of some of the elevations to continue their distinctive presence in the street.

The runs of tenements up the east side of Causeyside Street return down Orchard, Johnston and Gordon Streets, but the area’s quality and coherence was redefned by demolition of tenements to form the east bound traffic lanes of the ring road.

The eastern ends of Orchard Street and George Street could be repaired by landscaping to provide a better context for the former landmark Fire Station and extraordinary St 39

Figure 38: Former Co-operative, Causeyside Street Figure 39: Russell Institute (Restored) Figure 40: St Matthews Church Figure 41: View along Shuttle Street to George Place

40 41

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New Street - George Street

Although New Street was also widened and partly lined with tenements, this area retains more than most the character of Georgian Paisley. Buildings range from one to four storeys. Excepting George Street and the end of Witherspoon Street, the streets and alleys of this area are pedestrian in scale. 42 The quiet presence of the small former Laigh Kirk and its small graveyard, now the Paisley Arts an important terminal landmark Centre, forms a green oasis able previewed from the narrow, cobbled, to withstand the effect of the high industrial interest in Browns Lane Paisley Centre on one side and and a signifcant survival. 26 New the wide open road junction of Street with quadrant bays flanking Witherspoon Street with New Street sits opposite the Laigh Kirk (Paisley and Shuttle Street (Figure 41) on Arts Centre) (Figure 43) adds the other. This would be reduced gravitas to the flanking junction by development of the gap sites at with Witherspoon Street, screening the end of Shuttle Street. A diverse the historic core from the modern streetscape in this street enjoys developments behind and heralding 43 a fnely fnished public realm and the incline of New Street (Figure eye-catching end point in the former 44). St George’s Church. Removal of No 42 George Street, (Figure 45) roller shutters and improvements part of the University of the West to the elevations here would allow of Scotland, is a fne Renaissance Shuttle Street to be a welcoming institution by T G Abercrombie, 1898 thoroughfare. (won in competition as the Technical The area contains two distinct and College). The former Baptist Chapel, pivotal classical mansions. 5 George and the New Jerusalem Church Place, (Figure 42) once occupying diagonally opposite in George Street, generous ground was abutted by seal the historic core effectively from a towering tenement by 1900, but the 20th century tenements to the 44 with its fne perron stair remains south and east.

Figure 42: 5 George Place Figure 43: Paisley Arts Centre (Laigh Kirk) Figure 44: View up New Street with Bull Inn Figure 45: 42 George Street (T G 45 Abercrombie, 1898)

| 17 Part Two

Preservation and better place to live and work with THI/CARS in providing for tenement Enhancement opportunities to learn and develop refurbishment. Reducing the level skills, based on Paisley’s rich built of vacancy serves to improve heritage. investment confdence. Working with local businesses, cultural and Building on the success of the Key Challenges community bodies and property previous town centre Townscape owners is beginning to drive new The Paisley Town Centre Heritage Heritage Initiative (THI) and activity into the centre. Regeneration Strategy 2014 outlined Conservation Area Regeneration the key challenges faced by the Scheme (CARS) , the current The challenges are understood, town centre and set out strategic Townscape Heritage and tangible improvements have been objectives and an action plan to Conservation Area Regeneration achieved but the drive continues. address them. Two key objectives Scheme (TH.CARS2) (Figure 46) For example while occupancy levels are ‘To tell the story and defne the operates in conjunction with the in Causeyside Street have been visitor product for Paisley and to Heritage Regeneration Strategy to improved following investment, the subsequently display, curate and achieve these aims of heritage-led problem remains in the High Street. align the town’s heritage assets’ and regeneration. ‘To develop consistency in terms The accelerating integration into the of the visitor experience in relation Considerable investment has been Glasgow conurbation with increasing to town centre cohesion, function secured to address the empty shops mobility in road and rail travel has and management’. Essentially, the and the vacant upper floors, and a brought with it a loss of retail custom aim is to return to Paisley a vibrant continuing investment programme to Paisley’s centre and an increased economy in the centre, creating a will build on the successes of the demand for housing.

46

47

Figure 46: Paisley TH.CARS 2 logo Figure 47: Arnott’s Store – as was 48 Figure 48: Restored Arnott’s building

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Figure 49: Paisley sculpture (Dunn Square, Russell Institute, Town Hall)

Building Repair and Reuse adapt to secure their relevance, as education and regular reminders are targets to reduce carbon emissions required to ensure that regeneration Since the designation of the Oakshaw loom large and rainfall increases. is heritage-led. and Cross Conservation Areas, there Several vacant B-listed buildings in has been a number of successful Several key unlisted properties within the Conservation Area are currently conservation initiatives to preserve the conservation area are in need of at risk- for example, the former the buildings in the Conservation repair and investment. Successful Territorial Army Drill Hall in the High Area. investment in Causeyside Street has Street (vacated in 1996). shown what can be done to improve Of the seven major skyline landmark Efforts to promote regular the older and smaller Georgian buildings, two of which were at risk maintenance in the centre have property (Figure 50). The effort to have been rescued and converted been ongoing but blocked gutters stem the flow of vacant or underused to flats with major public subsidies and damaging foliage require regular upper floors must continue, notably in - the John Neilson Institution in attention. Advice on maintenance the High Street. 1992, and Orr Square Church in 1997. programmes to safeguard historic The former Arnott’s Store and the Most of the Victorian tenements assets is part of the TH.CARS2 Russell Institute have been restored appear structurally sound, but Heritage Education, Training and and removed from the Buildings are in need of modernisation and Events Activity Plan. at Risk Register (Figures 47 and the restoration of original details. 48). Similarly, a scheme to extend The Paisley Town Centre However, the occasional introduction and restore the Museum and Art Conservation Area Maintenance of out-of-character windows has Gallery is in the pipeline. Previous Guide provides property owners with undermined their quality and reduced investments have been made in the the essentials on how to protect their their value as historic assets. High Church, the Abbey, St Matthews historic asset. The implementation Church, Coats Memorial Church, and of the TH.CARS2 Heritage Education, the Town Hall. Training and Events (HETE) Activity Plan will also encourage improved Fourteen other buildings in the maintenance, management and Conservation Area have been rescued understanding of historic properties. from a derelict state, most of them It proposes activities that will provide for residential use or re-use. Eight accessible advice to prevent out-of- redundant church buildings have character alterations and detrimental been found new uses, but those with works to the fabric of listed buildings the finest interiors are among the six and conservation areas. Early remaining places of worship discussion, guidance and resource The need to monitor continues as provides a more successful outcome. congregations fluctuate, buildings Dissemination of this advice, Figure 50: 36 Causeyside Street (restored)

| 19 Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Neglected shop fronts and empty Gap Sites Public areas units are evidence of declining retail activity, together with inappropriate At the core of the Heritage Most of the public areas within fascia signs and solid roller shutters. Regeneration Strategy and the the conservation area have been Restoration of shop fronts should TH.CARS2 project is the intention upgraded to a good standard follow the positive examples of to preserve and enhance the special and are being well maintained. improvements shown in Causeyside interest of the Conservation Area. The programme of public realm Street. (Figures 51 and 52) Projects, whether public realm, repair improvements in the 1990s at The grants, or shopfront improvements, Cross and as part of the THI/ CARS Some of the unlisted Georgian are selected on the basis of heritage project in 2014 in Causeyside Street, buildings have been badly maintained merit, and are part of a wider view evidence the positive return of such making their restoration difficult to on how economic sustainability and investment. achieve. These can be found in Moss regeneration can be best encouraged. Street and the High Street. Their The traditional street surfaces regeneration is desirable to retain Gap sites can have a signifcant of signifcant sections of the the Georgian aspect to the area’s impact on the character and amenity conservation area have been character. of the Conservation Area. Paisley reinstated as a result. Caithness slabs Town Centre Conservation Area and granite setts were used for the Future investment should focus on contains a number of such sites pedestrianised High Street, The Cross, the principal stretches of the High and in most cases redevelopment Gilmour Street, and County Square. Street to create a critical mass, limit would be preferred, helping reinforce Forbes Place, Smithhills Street, Moss vacancy rates and contribute to the street lines, boost confidence and Street and Shuttle Street have also vibrancy of the area. strengthen the coherence of the been repaved. Around the Abbey, urban fabric. Priority is given to Abbey Close has been resurfaced and those sites which are critical to the the river bank railings replaced. approved purposes of grant. The TH.CARS2 and Heritage Regeneration Minor green spaces such as at the Strategy are focusing attention on Arts Centre (graveyard of former the High Street, the link between the Laigh Kirk), have been re-landscaped. Museum Quarter and the Abbey and The graveyard at Meeting House Lane Town Hall Quarters. has been tidied up and the perimeter of the Wynd Centre (former St John’s The development of gap sites in the Church) is open as a public space. historic core needs to consider the The green spaces at the Abbey Close possibly signifcant archaeological offer scope for future archaeological survival on or below the terrain excavation of monastic remains before (or during) development. As and for fresh presentation of their such, greater priority is accorded relationship with the Abbey and the 51 to problems more immediately river amenable to improvement, such as (Figure 53). vacant floorspace or envelope repairs.

Figure 51: 41 Causeyside Street shopfront (restored)

52 Figure 52: 62 Causeyside Street shopfront detail (restored)

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Summary of issues • Making the road layout more Conclusion legible to motorists without • Reduction in commercial activity, reducing pedestrian amenity Paisley town centre’s diverse and and an increasing number of and by reducing unnecessary complex character is the result of empty shops and premises above proliferation of signage. centuries of radical change - in its them. economy, society and culture, and • Reducing the impact of traffic on its relationship with the county, Lack of investment in repair and • Gordon Street and repairing the the central belt of Scotland and modernisation /retroftting of damage done to the urban fabric the world. This has left a rich and tenements. by road widening. unique built heritage which should be preserved as a valuable asset with • Installation of inappropriate shop Improving the public realm in the • which to face ongoing challenges. fronts, roller shutters and signage. Conservation Area. Harnessing and reviving the character • High levels of vacancy undermine • Enhancing the character and use of of Paisley is key to heritage-led investment confdence. Need to public green spaces including grave regeneration. This overview sets out diversify the High Street economy. yards. the town’s unique and distinguishing qualities and the calibre of the • Bringing vacant historic floorspace • Ensuring redevelopment makes resource. back into active use. provision for the appropriate This appraisal informs the • Finding compatable uses for treatment of surviving management of continuing changes churches whose interiors are too archaeological remains within the in a way that safeguards and fine for conversion to be allowed. Conservation Area. enhances the special character of the • Redevelopment of gap sites • Conservation Area Management town centre, directing those who are and of buildings which do not Plan to be utilised to address issues leading its regeneration. contribute to the character of of management and maintenance. the Conservation Area with new development which is appropriate in design and enhances it.

53 Figure 53: Abbey Close

| 21 Part Three

New Development Listed Buildings General Planning Supplementary Guidance Guidance Listed buildings and their settings The New Development require to be protected and Relevant policies covering Paisley Supplementary Guidance enhanced. Sensitive restoration, Town Centre and its built heritage accompanies the Local Development re-use and maintenance of listed are detailed in Renfrewshire Local Plan and sets out detailed buildings is encouraged. Development Plan (adopted development criteria aiming to Development proposals relating to in August 2014) and the New ensure that the character and listed buildings and their settings Development Supplementary integrity of listed buildings and will require to consider ‘Historic Guidance (adopted November 2014). sites within Conservation Areas Environment Scotland’s Managing The key points of relevance are set are not signifcantly compromised Change’ in the Historic Environment out below. and the enhancement of the Guidance Notes. Local Development Plan characteristics, historic value and setting are considered. Enabling Development POLICY P1:Renfrewshire’s Places. Built Heritage Conservation Areas: The Council may consider enabling POLICY ENV3: Built Heritage. development as a potential Development within Conservation POLICY E1: Renfrewshire Economic generator of funding to assist in the Areas Investment Locations consolidation and/or rehabilitation of POLICY E4: Tourism Development within conservation buildings. POLICY C1: Renfrewshire Network of areas will require to protect, preserve, The Council must be satisfed that Centres or enhance the visual amenity and the enabling development does not historic / architectural character, POLICY P8: Open Spaces materially harm the heritage values including the setting, buildings and Economy of the place or its setting and also open space. meets certain criteria. The Renfrewshire Local Development The New Development Plan aims to promote sustainable Demolition of Listed Buildings economic growth by indicating Supplementary Guidance sets out opportunities for change and the criteria which requires to be There is presumption against supporting investment. This helps considered for development within demolition or other works that to regenerate, create and fnance Conservation Areas. adversely affect the special interest of a listed building or its setting. Criteria communities and place, helping to Development adjacent to must be satisfed before demolition provide high quality development in Conservation Areas the right locations. can be considered. Proposals for development adjacent Scheduled Ancient Monuments and Paisley Town Centre is identifed as to a conservation area should not Archaeological Areas a Strategic Economic Investment have a signifcant adverse effect Location and is also identifed as a on its architectural and historic Scheduled Ancient Monuments Strategic Centre within Renfrewshire character and wider setting. and their settings require to Network of Centres. be safeguarded, proposals for Paisley West End is a Mixed Use Area. development which would adversely Acceptable uses include residential, affect the site or setting of a retail, restaurants and cafes, offces, Scheduled Ancient Monument will educational facilities, nurseries and not be permitted. residential institutions.

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Unscheduled Sites of Archaeological Significance

The Council will seek to protect and enhance unscheduled sites of archaeological signifcance and their setting.

Proposals for development which may have an adverse impact on sites of archaeological signifcance shall not be permitted. Where it is demonstrated that preservation cannot be achieved, excavation and recording of the site may be undertaken. Development will not be permitted to proceed until suitable excavation and recording has taken place. Article 4 Directions Article 4 Directions have been in place in the pre-2008 extent of the Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area since 1987. The effect is to control minor works which, over time could erode the character and appearance of the area. In February 2012 the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Amendment Order 2011, removed Householder Permitted Development Rights within conservation areas. Properties within conservation areas now have no Permitted Development Rights and therefore all changes to the external appearance of a building in the area, particularly changes to windows, roof materials and painting external walls, require formal planning approval. There are a few minor exceptions, such as small sheds and decking.

| 23 PartPaisley Town Centre Four Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Background Historical Information

The Thread of Paisley This rich legacy is fundamentally that of thread and weaving which have woven their mark into Paisley, each aspect of their productive and variable journeys leaving a physical 54 presence on the town, determining its scale, content, character and fascination.

‘The history of Paisley, may, properly speaking, be said to be the history of her trade’ John Parkhill, 1857. Figure 54: Emblems of Coats and Anchor Mills ‘It was to all intents and purposes a Figure 55: Tear drop motif in pavement weaving town. During the entire day, in the old-fashioned crooked side- Figure 56: Plan of Abercorn’s New Town, showing ‘textile’ street names streets, the monotonous click of the loom and the sharp whir of the shuttle Figure 57: Handloom weaving were continually heard’. 55 Figure 58: Paisley Shawl pattern – from Paisley Museum’s textiles collection Alexander Smith, describing Paisley in c1830, ‘Alfred Hagart’s Household’.

The vision for Paisley set out in the Heritage Regeneration Strategy (2014) seeks that ‘The town will build a new vibrancy by developing sustainable uses within the historic core of the town centre, rebuild its high street economy using the audience power of its rich legacy and bring all its historic buildings into use for the ultimate benefit of the community of Paisley and Renfrewshire’.

By the mid 18th century, Paisley was synonymous with textiles and weaving. Accordingly, the built form of the town tells their story and shares their inheritance. The cultural contributions to the town historically are part of the picture with outstanding collections of art, industry and scientifc interest. Paisley’s unique selling point is a 56

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was a hive of industry, undeniably a best in India and France but with world-leader in textile production individually characteristic details. and leaving a colourful trail. The 19th century was marked by The area of the Abbey was not to the development of signifcant escape the impact of the yarn. The civic and cultural buildings – Coats Earl of Abercorn chose to name the Observatory, the Museum and streets of the New Town laid out Art Gallery, the Town Hall, each on the monastery’s ancient garden landmark the philanthropic product Gauze, Lawn, Incle, Thread and Silk- of the industries’ magnates, the the fabrics used in the manufacture physical symbols of the town’s 57 of the town. (Figure 56). material success. ‘They almost literally overshadow Paisley’, Sheila Fine linen manufacture caused the Clark. burgeoning of the town after its pre-burghal infancy supporting the The thread works were highly monastery. There may have been as successful between the World Wars many as 900 weavers in the town in despite a wage cut in 1922 following 1744. By 1812 the Paisley Directory a price-fxing agreement. After the told of 7 thread manufacturers (each Second World War the Paisley thread with many machines) and more than mills had 10,000 employees on the a dozen independent thread makers. pay roll. The complimentary frms of Coats and Clark amalgamated Just as many of the town’s in 1952. The signifcant shift from streetscapes are irregular so were 58 thread production to that of the fortunes of its home industries. garments and other fabrics came in The market fluctuated and income 1961 when Coats merged with Patons fused medley, created by these with it. For example, the production and Baldwins. In 1986 a merger strong resources and giving direction of silk gauze which joined the range with Vantona Viyella created Coats to heritage-led regeneration. from 1759, in imitation of that at Viyella. In 2003 the Guinness Peat Spitalfelds, enjoyed only a short The Slaters Trades Directory of Group plc took-over Coats Ltd. prominence, falling rapidly from 1784 1846, shows the extent and diversity when fashions changed. Similarly, Recent decades have seen Paisley of Paisley’s industries early in the silk reached prohibitive prices during ignore its identity. The heritage- Victorian period, listing the addresses the Napoleonic War. While global led regeneration, in reviving the of bleachers, buckram manufacturers, challenges damaged productivity character of the town, will however calenderers, cloth-lappers, calico and employment in the short- give pride of place to the wealth printers, cotton spinners, cotton term, the industry was resourceful of cultural assets that currently lie and silk yarn merchants , drapers, and responded with progressive dormant. dyers, muslin manufacturers, alternatives. The arrival in the mills muslin factories, pattern drawers, of the Jacquard loom and steam rag and cotton waste dealers, silk power in the early 19th century, manufacturers, shawl cutters, shawl provoked a Luddite reaction and and plaid manufacturers, shuttle shifted the balance of home weaving makers, thread manufacturers, but maintained Paisley’s position in warpers, weavers, wool spinners and terms of output. The manufacture worsted yarn merchants. Together of ‘Paisley shawls’, in silk, cotton, with these are listed the many spun silk and mixtures of the three, supporting trades and industries: became for many years the lead hatters and hosiers, milliners, industry of the town. The patterns starchers, weavers’ wrights, mill of the shawls made reference to the wrights, dressmakers and tailors. It

| 25 Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Paisley’s Protagonists and Principal Buildings Paisley possesses some of Scotland’s most signifcant contributions in the development of architecture, each outstanding and distinctly unique example showing the town’s status, shaping its exceptional character and rich streetscape. The town embodies a series of distinct architectural styles including late 19th century French Free Renaissance and French Gothic, and early 20th century Art Nouveau and Art Deco. ‘Fortunately for Paisley and unlike many other towns within Scotland of this size, the quality of the built heritage, and in particular that of buildings which date roughly between 1750 and 1930, is exceptional.’ (Paisley: The Untold Story, p14). Six fgures and their landmark buildings dominate the narrative of the Conservation Area.

Thomas Coats by the time of his death the frm had 1809-1883 over 6000 staff, half of whom were in The hand of Thomas Coats in Paisley. Through his younger brother, shaping Paisley in the 19th century Andrew, Coats sustained a strong was immense and the wealth that market in America too. Thomas had he brought to the town centre is 11 children. An active Baptist, he evidenced in the outstanding quality made many gifts to the church in the of the commercial, educational and town. He was a Liberal and chaired ecclesiastical buildings. the town’s school board, giving regularly to the four local schools. Thread manufacturer and benefactor, In 1866, he employed the landscape born at Ferguslie, Paisley. He was architect, James Niven to re-design Figure 59: Thomas Coats, inscription the 4th of ten sons of James Coats, the former Love St gardens: these one of the frm’s founders. Thomas were then gifted to the community, trained as a textile engineer at re-named Fountain Gardens adorned combined with management Johnstone before becoming a with a decorative fountain (restored skills that brought the frm such partner in the family frm. He worked by Renfrewshire Council 2015), tremendous growth. frst with his brothers James and to be used as a ‘place of healthful Peter. Productivity was expanding recreation and resort’. With his The town square was presented – capacity doubled in the 1840s brother Peter, he gifted the Free with a statue in his memory. His and again in the 1850s stimulated Public Library and Museum to family however, ensured that his by demand from America. Thomas the town in the 1860s. Thomas’s contribution to the town should be led Coats to be the most important biggest single gift was in 1882, the linked to his Baptist faith and gifted company in the world market. By Coats Observatory. It was Thomas’s the Thomas Coats Memorial Church 1860, Coats employed 1100 workers: outstanding technical knowledge in 1894.

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George Aitken Clark 1823-1873 merged with the original family frm as Clark & Co with the anchor Like Coats, George Clark was a thread trademark. The striking Atlantic and manufacturer and philanthropist, Pacifc Mills graced Paisley’s skyline born into an existing frm in Paisley. until a few years ago. Anchor Mill The Clarks had found by the early stands as a symbol of an extensive 19th century the market for ‘sewing’ former complex of buildings, its thread and made this their main line conversion pointing Paisley’s of business. The spools for the thread regeneration in a positive direction. brought another string to Paisley’s Clark bequeathed a considerable sum economic bow, with wood imported towards the building of the town for the purpose. hall in Paisley and his frm, Clark & Co contributed twice as much. The Figure 61: James Donald George was sent as a young boy to a George A Clark Town Hall opened in business in Ontario before returning 1882. punctuating and defning cross roads to join a frm of shawl makers, across the town. He followed the becoming Ronald and Clark. He James Donald Glasgow penchant for round-arched joined his brother-in-law, Robert Kerr 1852 or 1854-1917 bays, stone transoms and mullions in in 1851 to set up a thread factory and decoratively articulated elevations. Born on a farm near Paisley, Donald after further experience in the United Further examples of this work in the began his career as an architect States, the frm opened a successful conservation area are 19-21 Moss with Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson branch in Newark in 1864. The frm Street and Meeting House Lane, before setting up his own practice 1897-99, 51 Causeyside Street, in 1881, in Caledonia Street, during circa 1900, Turf Tavern, 9 Orchard a boom period for the burgh. He Street, and 67 Causeyside and 4 used an eclectic range of style with Gordon Street. Donald would also a preference for Free Renaissance. design for the suburbs where many His best-known and frst major villas and semi-detached houses are project was the Liberal Club, 32 High by him. Typical of Paisley’s artistic Street, in 1886, the design of which progeny, he was also a multi-talented suggests he had some acquaintance musician and a photographer. with the work of James Sellars and John Burnet & Son. The Liberal Party ran the Town Council from 1895 and Donald was an active member. He was a Councillor himself from 1886-1912, and this activity was key to his commissions. It led to accusations, following a long-running court case over payment, that he had mis-used his role on the Town Council’s Improvement Committee to secure work. The patron for his Dunn Square (Figure 62) designs was the Liberal MP, Sir William Dunn. Working with the new street- widening policies of the 1880s and 1890s he contributed many of the tenements and chambers along Figure 60: Statue of George Aitken Clark, the burghs thoroughfares, often Figure 62: Dunn Square – general view of (John Mossman, 1885), standing bronze on layout granite by the Town Hall with distinctive corner towers,

| 27 Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area Appraisal | Renfrewshire Council

Thomas Graham Abercrombie William Daniel McLennan 1862-1926 1872-1940

T G Abercrombie was a native William Daniel McLennan was the of Paisley. He trained with John son of a Paisley shawl manufacturer, Hutchison in Glasgow, before born in Glen Street, Paisley. He was spending a decade in North America. educated frst at Mr Watson’s Public In 1886 he set up practice in Paisley’s School in Stevenson Street, but in High Street and in 1888 won a 1880 he was enrolled at the John competition for Greenlaw Church, Neilson Institute. By 1895 he was Paisley. His church work was clearly working in Belfast, and by 1896 in inspired by the designs of Burnet Cahir, Co Tipperary. Son and Campbell. Abercrombie Figure 63: T G Abercrombie He called himself an engineer as developed close links with the Coats Weighhouse Close, 1900, and the well as an architect and it is possible and Clarks, the leading patrons palazzo-like University of the West he began as such. By 1895 he in the burgh. His practice began of Scotland, 42 George Street, 1898 was known in Paisley and invited with successive partners, Robert (former Technical College) and the to compete for Paisley Technical Symington and William Kerr, while Beaux Arts YMCA, High Street, 1908. School. While he did not win this he worked with carefully chosen In 1923 he took James Steel Maitland commission, Rowand Anderson’s assistants 1902-23 from offces at (1887-1982) into partnership, a report accounted for a distinguished 1 County Place. His work in Paisley pupil of Leiper who had worked in submission. This encouraged him to was prolifc and during these years Montreal. The partnership was brief set up practice in Paisley late in 1896 he provided some of the town’s most as Abercrombie died suddenly at his or early in 1897. prestigious buildings, including the home, Redholme, Castlehead, on 16 Royal Alexandra Infrmary 1894- He emerged as one of Paisley’s most February 1926. Maitland continued 1900, the Nethercommon Carpet original architects and was widely the practice under the existing name Works, 1912, Wallneuk Church, known for his adoption of bold and of Abercrombie & Maitland. 1913. He developed a free style original Art Nouveau variations blending elements from traditional with perpendicular Gothic and Free Scottish architecture. Among Renaissance. With St Matthew’s the most signifcant buildings in Church, Gordon Street, 1905-07, he the town centre by him are: the graced the burgh with a watershed in Scottish Renaissance buildings of the architectural design and at The Bull Territorial Army Drill Hall, 76 High Inn, New Street, 1900, with a lively Street, 1896; Peter Brough Nurses tenement design and a characterful Home, 56 Oakshaw, 1897 and 25-31 Glasgow pub interior (Figure 66).

Figure 64: Abercrombie buildings – YMCA, School for Girls, UWS

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James Steel Maitland 1887-1982

James Steel Maitland was born into a well-connected family, his mother Kate Coats Steel being an adopted sister of the thread magnate George H Coats. He was educated in Greenock and Glasgow before studying with William Leiper and at Glasgow School of Art. He practised in partnership 65 with William Hunter McNab from 1903. At the end of his apprenticeship Figure 67: James Steel Maitland in 1909 Maitland, advised by T G Abercrombie, left to work in Montreal, later years he became committed to Canada. In 1914, he married the the conservation of Paisley, leading embroiderer, Ellison J F Young. During an unsuccessful campaign to save the First World War, Maitland learned New Street. He died at the house he to fly in New York before joining the had designed for himself, Littlecroft, British Royal Naval Air Service. By Stonefeld Avenue, Paisley in 1982. the end of the war, when a senior instructor, he was awarded the Air He designed a large number of Force Cross for his services. buildings in Paisley, which at this period were distinguished by their 66 Early in 1920, Maitland joined well-proportioned Art Deco facades the offce of Thomas Graham and bands of horizontal glazing Figure 65: W D McLennan Abercrombie at 1 County Place, such as 35 and 50 High Street and 1 Paisley as principal assistant, to Figure 66: The Bull Inn, New Street Orr Square, 1934. His most famous become partner in 1923. After buildings are the Russell Institute. Abercrombie’s death in 1926 he Causeyside Street/New Street, As a person he is said to have been continued the practice. One of the 1924-27; Arnotts, Gauze Street, somewhat remote but ‘clubbable’ town’s artistic leaders, Maitland was 1925; Kelvin House, Marshall’s Lane and wryly amusing with his own also a painter, wood-carver, theatrical and Cart Walk, 1937 and 1949. Steel circle of friends. He lived in the family scene painter and costume designer Maitland was the town architect of home at Carriagehill until the closing and among his many interests he Paisley from 1930 and led further decade of his life, which was spent at was President of the Paisley Burns, sensitive restoration of The Place of Beltrees, Linwood, Paisley. Rotary and Bohemian Clubs. In his Paisley in 1957.

Figure 68: Russell Institute, Arnotts, 50 High Street, Burtons

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References and Useful Contacts

Select Bibliography Sylvia Clark, Paisley: a History, 1988.

F H Groome, Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland, vol 5, 1884.

David Rowand, David Rowand’s Paisley, 2001.

Mary McCarthy, A Social Geography of Paisley, 1969.

John Malden, Let Paisley Flourish, 1991.

Anne Turner Simpson, Sylvia Stevenson, Historic Paisley: The Archaeological Implications of Development, 1982.

Renfrewshire Council, SSR Consulting Paisley: The Untold Story, Paisley Town Centre Heritage Regeneration Strategy and Action Plan, 2014.

Frank Walker, The South Clyde Estuary: An Illustrated Architectural Guide to Inverclyde and Renfrew, 1986.

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Useful websites Useful Contacts Abbreviations Development Standards CA Conservation Area Buildings at Risk Register Renfrewshire Council CARS Conservation Area www.buildingsatrisk.org.uk Renfrewshire House, Cotton Street Regeneration Scheme Paisley PA1 1LL Dictionary of Scottish Architects CPD Continuing Professional www.scottisharchitects.org.uk Email: [email protected] Development Tel: 0300 300 0144 Historic Environment Scotland HER Historic Environment Record www.historicenvironment.scot Historic Environment Scotland Heritage Directorate HES Historic Environment The Engine Shed Longmore House Scotland www.engineshed.org Salisbury Place HLF Heritage Lottery Fund National Library of Scotland Edinburgh LDP Local Development Plan EH9 1SH www.nls.uk NLS National Library of Email: [email protected] Pastmap Scotland Tel: 0131 668 8600 www.pastmap.org.uk RC Renfrewshire Council RCAHMS Royal Commission on Canmore Heritage Centre the Ancient & Historical www.canmore.org.uk Paisley Central Library Monuments of Scotland 68 High Street Scotland’s Places SCRAN Scottish Cultural Paisley PA1 2BB www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk Resources Network Email: [email protected] TA Territorial Army SCRAN Tel: 0300 300 1188 www.scran.ac.uk TH Townscape Heritage THI Townscape Heritage West of Scotland Archaeology Service Initiative www.wosas.net

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March 2018