TRUTH IN TRAVEL OCTOBER 2016 EATING OUR WAY AROUND THE WORLD TOKYO • TEL AVIV JAMAICA • MIAMI • IRELAND AND OF COURSE ... ITALY THE LIST SOUTH AFRICA The Pot Luck Club Cape Town “My favorites: the chickpea fries, pig’s head, and carrots WHERE IN THE with goat cheese ricotta. There’s also sweeping views of Table Mountain. Make res- ervations months in advance.” Cherae Robinson East Head Café Knysna “It’s touristy because it over- looks the Knysna Heads, but I had two utterly memorable breakfasts here.” Sarah Khan, food and travel writer TO Max’s Lifestyle Umlazi “The best place to get braai, amazing South African– style grilled meat. Go on a Friday or Saturday night to hear local Kwaito music.” Cherae Robinson ISRAEL Machneyuda Jerusalem “A joyfully chaotic spot just off the Machane Yehuda market using fresh Israeli- grown ingredients.” Peter Jon Lindberg, contributing editor 147 OF THE Studio Arcadia by Chef Ezra Kedem Jerusalem “It’s a glass-enclosed dining GREATEST RESTAURANTS AROUND THE GLOBE, room atop an olive tree– covered hill outside the city. ACCORDING TO THOSE WHO The food is simple but extraordinary.” Anita Lo, EAT, COOK, AND TRAVEL FOR A LIVING chef/owner of Annisa Muscat Restaurant Rosh Pina “It’s the kind of place that raises its own lamb and picks There’s no shortage of food-focused Instagram feeds Africa + The Gold Coast Restaurant & fresh produce at 2 P.M., then P.M. that will direct you to the tastiest avocado toast in cities Middle East Cocktail Bar Accra serves it at 7 ” Michael “Sundays are for soup. The like Paris, London, New York, L.A.—hell, even Charleston. But Solomonov, chef/co-owner of nkatenkwan, or groundnut Zahav and Dizengoff in when you’re faced with the make-or-break travel dilemma of soup, is best eaten with your Philadelphia where to eat in Hong Kong, Mendoza, Dakar—destinations hands.” Cherae Robinson where trustworthy recommendations are harder to come GHANA Tzfon Abraxas Tel Aviv SENEGAL Chez Clarisse Accra “Sit at the counter and eat by but all the more vital—you have one shot to get it right. Chez Loutcha Dakar “Ivorian cuisine that’s heavy whatever the chef is prepar- (Who knows when you’ll be back in Chengdu . .) That’s why “Massive flavor. The best on seafood. Get the wild ing that day. If they have we enlisted and cross-referenced the impassioned guidance thiéboudienne, or Senegalese tilapia with attiéké (cassava the baked hraime with from the real experts, our network of chefs, food writers, and fish and rice, you’ll find couscous) and alloco (sau- tomato and tahini, order it.” outside a local’s home.” most-in-the-know travelers. What follows is a tear-it-out, téed sweet plantains).” Alon Shaya, chef/partner of Cherae Robinson laminate-it, take-a-phone-pic-of-it globe-spanning hit list Cherae Robinson, founder/ Shaya, Domenica, and Pizza so you will never waste a meal again. CEO of Tastemakers Africa Domenica in New Orleans 58 Condé Nast Traveler / 10.16 illustrations by TIM ENTHOVEN THE LIST Elbabor Umm al-Fahm Bukhara New Delhi Ishikawa Tokyo “Outstanding Palestinian “We love that nothing about “Thekaiseki meals are food, and the Kebab Elbabor this place—the decor, the perfectly assembled, multi- brings me to tears every yogurt and cane-vinegar course progressions that time.” Michael Solomonov marinated barrah kebab (leg rarely hit a false note.” Gabe LEBANON of lamb)—has changed in 30 Ulla, food writer years. The result is the most Tawlet Beirut Jimbocho Den Tokyo masterful North-West “It began as a development See “Tokyo Counter Frontier tandoor-style cook- project, bringing together Culture,” page 80. female home cooks from ing imaginable. Best of all, various religious sects. It’s you eat everything with your Kadowaki Tokyo since become a living catalog hands.” Pilar Guzmán “I loved the abalone with fish-liver soy sauce—the of Lebanon’s food tradition.” Indian Accent New Delhi ideal combination of briny- David Prior, contributing “Unquestionably the best fresh seafood and umami.” editor restaurant in New Delhi, Dominique Ansel, baker thanks to the baingan bharta, a classic Punjabi Katsukura Tokyo eggplant dish served inside “Get the tonkatsu, or fried Asia a cornetto cone made with pork cutlet. The panko sun-dried tomato. Dinner crust is light and crisp, the WHERE reservations are tough— pork juicy and rich.” go for a weekday lunch.” Mitchell Davis, executive Justin Bergman vice president of the James OBAMA EATS SUSHI Beard Foundation JAPAN CHINA Takotsubo Hiroshima Kyubey Tokyo Duck de Chine Beijing Sukiyabashi Jiro Tokyo “The freshest seafood from “The fish is insanely fresh, “My go-to place for Beijing “The best sushi in the world. Come the Seto Inland Sea. My and the attention to detail is duck. They’re crisped in hungry—Jiro serves his nigiri one right after the order is different every time, remarkable. The omakase ovens using date wood to other, so each piece is super fresh and the depending on what the is downright perfect.” Jose enhance the flavor.” Justin perfect temperature. To get a reservation, have a chef recommends. Trust Garces, chef/owner of Bergman, Shanghai corre- friend who speaks Japanese call months in advance.” him.” Masaharu Morimoto, Amada, Distrito, Tinto, and spondent for Monocle Deana Saukam, food writer chef and TV personality others in Philadelphia Yu Zhi Lan Chengdu Otomezushi Kanazawa L’Effervescence Tokyo “Try the free-range duck “You’ll get a tour of Toyama “A feeling of calm washes egg-yolk noodles, hand cut Bay and beyond: four species over you the moment you and served in a soup with walk into this beautiful Your reward is some of uncommonly paired with of ebi; deep-sea bream, two slices of truffle and baby crunchy and sweet; raw fire- dining room. Don’t miss the most inventive Japanese- persimmons, and the the tableside tea service. bok choy. Reservations are fly squid; plus a duo of anago inspired seafood menus super-tender Kagoshima It’s exquisite.” Sean Brock, a must.” Justin Bergman and unagi. It’s a meal you’ll around: flower crab with a beef with mushroom that’s chef/co-owner of Husk and The Chairman Hong Kong never forget.” Luke Burgess, sliver of uni, sea bream served with egg yolk, to McCrady’s in Charleston “Call ahead to reserve the karaage (deep fried) with name a few. While the menu former chef at Garagistes in steamed crab set atop fresh, pickled jalapeño tosazu, changes daily, the organizing Hobart, Australia Mikawa Zezankyo Tokyo wide rice noodles in a sauce “I remember eating battered saba (mackerel) sashimi principle—‘raw,’ ‘smaller,’ Aronia de Takazawa Tokyo of aged Shaoxing wine and and fried uni wrapped in and ‘bigger’—remains “This four-table tasting- chicken oil.” Bill Addison, shiso leaf and never wanting the same.” Pilar Guzmán, menu restaurant pushes the restaurant editor at Eater.com it to end.” Gabe Ulla editor in chief boundaries of Japanese Lung King Heen Hong Kong Tim Ho Wan Hong Kong cooking. You’re at the mercy Sushi Saito Tokyo “The best dim sum in the 72 “The baked buns with of the chef, but that is a great “One of the greatest sushi world. Get a double order barbecued pork and thing. Book far in advance.” omakases in the world.” of the BBQ pork buns.” Number of chefs, steamed egg cake are to die Grant Achatz, chef/co-owner Ken Oringer, chef/co- Deana Saukam, food writer restaurateurs, food writers, for.” Justin Bergman of Alinea in Chicago owner of Uni, Toro, and and hospitality veterans Coppa in Boston Rōnin Hong Kong who submitted restaurant INDIA Eatrip Tokyo “From Matt Abergel and recommendations. Bombay Canteen Mumbai “This place is an island of Sushi Sho Tokyo Lindsay Jang, the duo behind “Amazing vibe, some of warmth in Tokyo.” Sam “The most extraordinary Yardbird, comes the nearly- the best Indian/fusion food White, co-owner of Ramen omakase sushi meal no one impossible-to-find 24-seater. I’ve ever had.” Sarah Khan Shop in Oakland, California can find.” Gail Simmons, 62 Condé Nast Traveler / 10.16 THE LIST author, special projects setting—a rarity here, since Chin Chin Melbourne Golden Century director for Food & Wine, and the best authentic food “One of the few places I’ve Seafood Sydney judge on Bravo’s Top Chef is usually dished out in dives been that really lives up “Dave Chang called the pipis with plastic tables.” to the hype. I went there with XO sauce and SushiYa Tokyo Peter Jon Lindberg twice on a three-day visit.” vermicelli his favorite dish See “Tokyo Counter Nahm Sarah Khan on earth. Nobody goes Culture,” page 80. Bangkok here before midnight.” Peter Sean’s Panaroma THE PHILIPPINES Jon Lindberg North Bondi Your Local Makati Australia “Down-to-earth fresh Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney “I still dream of the pomelo seasonal cooking that oozes “Try the live South salad with shrimp, winged with the endless warmth Australian clams steamed beans, wild rocket, yuzu, “EYE-ROLLING and charm of chef/owner with serrano ham, nam jim, pickled quail eggs, DELICIOUSNESS” Sean Moran.” Kylie Kwong, white wine, and flageolet and Thai coconut ‘ice Myffy Rigby, food writer chef/co-owner of Billy Kwong beans.” Kylie Kwong cream.’ ” Ashlea Halpern, Brae Birregurra in Sydney contributing editor “Faultless service and Spice I Am Sydney “POWERFUL, PUNGENT, delicious food that’s seam- Bennelong Sydney “Still the best down-and- SINGAPORE AND MOUTH- lessly paired with killer “Reclaimed its spot in dirty Thai food in town, and Burnt Ends SCORCHINGLY HOT” beverages.