TRUTH IN TRAVEL OCTOBER 2016

EATING OUR WAY AROUND THE WORLD TOKYO • TEL AVIV JAMAICA • MIAMI • IRELAND AND OF COURSE ... ITALY THE LIST

SOUTH AFRICA The Pot Luck Club Cape Town “My favorites: the chickpea fries, pig’s head, and carrots WHERE IN THE with goat cheese ricotta. There’s also sweeping views of Table Mountain. Make res- ervations months in advance.” Cherae Robinson

East Head Café Knysna “It’s touristy because it over- looks the Knysna Heads, but I had two utterly memorable breakfasts here.” Sarah Khan, food and travel writer

TO Max’s Lifestyle Umlazi “The best place to getbraai, amazing South African– style grilled meat. Go on a Friday or Saturday night to hear local Kwaito music.” Cherae Robinson

ISRAEL Machneyuda Jerusalem “A joyfully chaotic spot just off the Machane Yehuda market using fresh Israeli- grown ingredients.” Peter Jon Lindberg, contributing editor

147 OF THE Studio Arcadia by Chef Ezra Kedem Jerusalem “It’s a glass-enclosed dining GREATEST RESTAURANTS AROUND THE GLOBE, room atop an olive tree– covered hill outside the city. ACCORDING TO THOSE WHO The food is simple but extraordinary.” Anita Lo, EAT, COOK, AND TRAVEL FOR A LIVING chef/owner of Annisa Muscat Restaurant Rosh Pina “It’s the kind of place that raises its own lamb and picks There’s no shortage of food-focused Instagram feeds Africa + The Gold Coast Restaurant & fresh produce at 2 P.M., then P.M. that will direct you to the tastiest avocado toast in cities Middle East Cocktail Bar Accra serves it at 7 ” Michael “Sundays are for soup. The like Paris, London, New York, L.A.—hell, even Charleston. But Solomonov, chef/co-owner of nkatenkwan, or groundnut Zahav and Dizengoff in when you’re faced with the make-or-break travel dilemma of soup, is best eaten with your Philadelphia where to eat in Hong Kong, Mendoza, Dakar—destinations hands.” Cherae Robinson where trustworthy recommendations are harder to come GHANA Tzfon Abraxas Tel Aviv SENEGAL Chez Clarisse Accra “Sit at the counter and eat by but all the more vital—you have one shot to get it right. Chez Loutcha Dakar “Ivorian cuisine that’s heavy whatever the chef is prepar- (Who knows when you’ll be back in Chengdu . . .) That’s why “Massive flavor. The best on seafood. Get the wild ing that day. If they have we enlisted and cross-referenced the impassioned guidance thiéboudienne, or Senegalese tilapia with attiéké (cassava the baked hraime with from the real experts, our network of chefs, food writers, and fish and rice, you’ll find couscous) and alloco (sau- tomato and tahini, order it.” outside a local’s home.” most-in-the-know travelers. What follows is a tear-it-out, téed sweet plantains).” Alon Shaya, chef/partner of Cherae Robinson laminate-it, take-a-phone-pic-of-it globe-spanning hit list Cherae Robinson, founder/ Shaya, Domenica, and Pizza so you will never waste a meal again. CEO of Tastemakers Africa Domenica in New Orleans

58 Condé Nast Traveler / 10.16 illustrations by TIM ENTHOVEN THE LIST

Elbabor Umm al-Fahm Bukhara New Delhi Ishikawa Tokyo “Outstanding Palestinian “We love that nothing about “Thekaiseki meals are food, and the Kebab Elbabor this place—the decor, the perfectly assembled, multi- brings me to tears every yogurt and cane-vinegar course progressions that time.” Michael Solomonov marinated barrah kebab (leg rarely hit a false note.” Gabe

LEBANON of lamb)—has changed in 30 Ulla, food writer years. The result is the most Tawlet Beirut Jimbocho Den Tokyo masterful North-West “It began as a development See “Tokyo Counter Frontier tandoor-style cook- project, bringing together Culture,” page 80. female home cooks from ing imaginable. Best of all, various religious sects. It’s you eat everything with your Kadowaki Tokyo since become a living catalog hands.” Pilar Guzmán “I loved the abalone with fish-liver soy sauce—the of Lebanon’s food tradition.” Indian Accent New Delhi ideal combination of briny- David Prior, contributing “Unquestionably the best fresh seafood and umami.” editor restaurant in New Delhi, Dominique Ansel, baker thanks to the baingan bharta, a classic Punjabi Katsukura Tokyo eggplant dish served inside “Get the tonkatsu, or fried Asia a cornetto cone made with pork cutlet. The panko sun-dried tomato. Dinner crust is light and crisp, the WHERE reservations are tough— pork juicy and rich.” go for a weekday lunch.” Mitchell Davis, executive Justin Bergman vice president of the James OBAMA EATS SUSHI Beard Foundation JAPAN CHINA Takotsubo Hiroshima Kyubey Tokyo Duck de Chine Beijing Sukiyabashi Jiro Tokyo “The freshest seafood from “The fish is insanely fresh, “My go-to place for Beijing “The best sushi in the world. Come the Seto Inland Sea. My and the attention to detail is duck. They’re crisped in hungry—Jiro serves his nigiri one right after the order is different every time, remarkable. Theomakase ovens using date wood to other, so each piece is super fresh and the depending on what the is downright perfect.” Jose enhance the flavor.” Justin perfect temperature. To get a reservation, have a chef recommends. Trust Garces, chef/owner of Bergman, Shanghai corre- friend who speaks Japanese call months in advance.” him.” Masaharu Morimoto, Amada, Distrito, Tinto, and spondent for Monocle Deana Saukam, food writer chef and TV personality others in Philadelphia

Yu Zhi Lan Chengdu Otomezushi Kanazawa L’Effervescence Tokyo “Try the free-range duck “You’ll get a tour of Toyama “A feeling of calm washes egg-yolk noodles, hand cut Bay and beyond: four species over you the moment you and served in a soup with walk into this beautiful Your reward is some of uncommonly paired with of ebi; deep-sea bream, two slices of truffle and baby crunchy and sweet; raw fire- dining room. Don’t miss the most inventive Japanese- persimmons, and the the tableside tea service. bok choy. Reservations are fly squid; plus a duo of anago inspired seafood menus super-tender Kagoshima It’s exquisite.” Sean Brock, a must.” Justin Bergman and unagi. It’s a meal you’ll around: flower crab with a beef with mushroom that’s chef/co-owner of Husk and The Chairman Hong Kong never forget.” Luke Burgess, sliver of uni, sea bream served with egg yolk, to McCrady’s in Charleston “Call ahead to reserve the karaage (deep fried) with name a few. While the menu former chef at Garagistes in steamed crab set atop fresh, pickled jalapeño tosazu, changes daily, the organizing Hobart, Australia Mikawa Zezankyo Tokyo wide rice noodles in a sauce “I remember eating battered saba (mackerel) sashimi principle—‘raw,’ ‘smaller,’ Aronia de Takazawa Tokyo of aged Shaoxing wine and and fried uni wrapped in and ‘bigger’—remains “This four-table tasting- chicken oil.” Bill Addison, shiso leaf and never wanting the same.” Pilar Guzmán, menu restaurant pushes the restaurant editor at Eater.com it to end.” Gabe Ulla editor in chief boundaries of Japanese Lung King Heen Hong Kong Tim Ho Wan Hong Kong cooking. You’re at the mercy Sushi Saito Tokyo “The best dim sum in the 72 “The baked buns with of the chef, but that is a great “One of the greatest sushi world. Get a double order barbecued pork and thing. Book far in advance.” omakases in the world.” of the BBQ pork buns.” Number of chefs, steamed egg cake are to die Grant Achatz, chef/co-owner Ken Oringer, chef/co- Deana Saukam, food writer restaurateurs, food writers, for.” Justin Bergman of Alinea in Chicago owner of Uni, Toro, and and hospitality veterans Coppa in Boston Rōnin Hong Kong who submitted restaurant INDIA Eatrip Tokyo “From Matt Abergel and recommendations. Bombay Canteen Mumbai “This place is an island of Sushi Sho Tokyo Lindsay Jang, the duo behind “Amazing vibe, some of warmth in Tokyo.”Sam “The most extraordinary Yardbird, comes the nearly- the best Indian/fusion food White, co-owner of Ramen omakase sushi meal no one impossible-to-find 24-seater. I’ve ever had.” Sarah Khan Shop in Oakland, California can find.” Gail Simmons,

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author, special projects setting—a rarity here, since Chin Chin Melbourne Golden Century director for Food & Wine, and the best authentic food “One of the few places I’ve Seafood Sydney judge on Bravo’s Top Chef is usually dished out in dives been that really lives up “Dave Chang called the pipis with plastic tables.” to the hype. I went there with XO sauce and SushiYa Tokyo Peter Jon Lindberg twice on a three-day visit.” vermicelli his favorite dish See “Tokyo Counter Nahm Sarah Khan on earth. Nobody goes Culture,” page 80. Bangkok here before midnight.” Peter Sean’s Panaroma THE PHILIPPINES Jon Lindberg North Bondi Your Local Makati Australia “Down-to-earth fresh Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney “I still dream of the pomelo seasonal cooking that oozes “Try the live South salad with shrimp, winged with the endless warmth Australian clams steamed beans, wild rocket, yuzu, “EYE-ROLLING and charm of chef/owner with serrano ham, nam jim, pickled quail eggs, DELICIOUSNESS” Sean Moran.” Kylie Kwong, white wine, and flageolet and Thai coconut ‘ice Myffy Rigby, food writer chef/co-owner of Billy Kwong beans.” Kylie Kwong cream.’ ” Ashlea Halpern, Brae Birregurra in Sydney contributing editor “Faultless service and Spice I Am Sydney “POWERFUL, PUNGENT, delicious food that’s seam- Bennelong Sydney “Still the best down-and- SINGAPORE AND MOUTH- lessly paired with killer “Reclaimed its spot in dirty Thai food in town, and Burnt Ends SCORCHINGLY HOT” beverages. Simple as that.” Sydney’s top tier when Peter that’s saying something in “Sit at the bar and watch David Prior, Luke Burgess contributing editor Gilmore took over the Sydney.” Peter Jon Lindberg them break down a whole kitchen and made the tourist Franklin Hobart side of beef, then roast it landmark the Opera House “Impeccable ultra-locavore in a 1,000-degree wood-fired “STRATOSPHERIC” smart and respectable again.” cooking from one of Andy Ricker, chef/owner of oven or grill it over coals.” Peter Jon Lindberg Canada + Australia’s top youngish Peter Jon Lindberg Pok Pok Restaurants Mexico chefs, who’s doing justice to Bills Sydney Restaurant André the incredible bounty of “IMPRESSIVELY “Pretty much invented Aussie “French technique, Asian Tasmania.” Peter Jon Lindberg COMPLEX” breakfast culture, then influences, and seamless Mitchell Davis, executive exported it worldwide.” Peter Attica Melbourne service.” Tim Ryan, vice president of the James Jon Lindberg “Ben Shewry’s cuisine president of the Culinary Beard Foundation Institute of America is thought-provoking and Billy Kwong Sydney QUEBEC unusual . . . in a good “Delicious Chinese Liverpool House Montreal Sin Huat Eating House way.” Simon Rogan, chef/ food with intriguing “Exactly the kind of offal-y, “A sweltering dump open owner of L’Enclume Australian notes.” Joanna hearty cooking you crave on to the street and the prosti- in Cartmel, England Savill, food writer a winter’s night in Quebec.” tutes of Geylang. The chef Peter Jon Lindberg wears shorts, a grotty T-shirt, and rubber wellies. It’s Au Pied de Cochon Sugar also delicious. Get the crab Shack St. Benoît de Mirabel bee hoon on rice vermicelli.” “Chef Martin Picard is a Anthony Bourdain, chef, demigod of French-Canadian writer, and TV personality decadence. There’s no telling what he’ll prepare. SOUTH KOREA Reservations are taken via Mingles Seoul the website and usually “The modern restaurant fill up long before the season movement has arrived even opens. Be flexible in Seoul, and Mingoo Kang with your travel dates if you is its leader.” Matt Rodbard, can.” Gail Simmons food editor/writer WHERE EVERY MEAL IS MEXICO CITY TAIWAN Contramar Din Tai Fung Taipei “Gabriela Cámara’s ex - “The best soup dumplings in ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS traordinary restaurant is the world.” Deana Saukam always my first stop. It feels Cumulus Inc., Melbourne like the city’s dining room.” VIETNAM “Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day. Have a Alice Waters of Chez Panisse Cuc Gach Quán full English breakfast, foie gras parfait, sparklingly fresh oysters, or Ho Chi Minh City the famous whole roast lamb shoulder. Order two lemon El Bajío “Traditional Vietnamese curd–filled madeleines, baked to order, to take back to your hotel.” “Their empanadas, made served in an elegant Julie Gibbs, cookbook publisher with plantain dough and

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filled with black beans black scallop unless you and cheese, are phenomenal. have a stomach of steel.” So are the carnitas and Frank Castronovo and Frank crab with black salsa.” Falcinelli, chefs/co-owners of Ken Oringer Frankies Spuntino and Prime Meats in New York City Pujol + “Chef Enrique Olvera’s A WRITER A CHEF URUGUAY ‘living’ mole has been stew- FACE OFF ON La Huella Maldonado ing for hundreds of days— “Pretty much your fantasy of ingredients are added a beachside grill, albeit a daily, so it’s different every WHERE TO EAT haunt of the ultra-wealthy.” time you try it. This place Peter Jon Lindberg is elegant but not stuffy. And INTULUM,T MEXICO it won’t break the bank.” Gabe Ulla Europe VERACRUZ Cetli Hartwood El Negro del Estero “It serves authentic Yucatán dishes “I could eat here every night for the “The focus is on the mariscos, in a dreamy setting, run out of a family rest of my life. The ceviches are prepared as simply as possi- home. You simply cannot go otherworldly, and the whole grouper ble. Crab claws, shrimp, and wrong with the delicious white mole in the wood oven is a must.” lobster are all served plat- with fish and a spicy margarita.” Ken Oringer, chef/co-owner Deana Saukam, food writer of Uni, Toro, and Coppa in Boston ter-style with lime and salt. AUSTRIA Try the pulque, made from Gut Purbach Purbach agave, that tastes like a sweet “This elegant country inn in tequila.” Cherae Robinson eastern Austria, close to the Hungarian border, spe- something made close Irajá Rio de Janeiro CHILE cializes in Austrian game by. Eventually, that perfect- “Wildly creative Brazilian Boragó Santiago “They’ve been creating a dishes like sandpiper and Central + ly wood-fired ojo de dishes served inside (and database of Chilean ingredi- red-legged partridge.” South bife will arrive, and you’re outside) a beautiful old ents for years. So when an Georges Desrues, food writer America capping dinner with a mansion.” Peter Jon Lindberg brandy. Or two.”Paul Brady, Atacama Desert herb is at its CROATIA D.O.M. São Paulo senior editor peak, which may be only a Toklarija Sovinjsko Polje “An amazing culinary few days per year, a foraging “The most memorable dish BOLIVIA celebration of Brazil.” community collects it for the is in the hills of Istria: a tangle Gustu La Paz Margot Janse restaurant. They put out ARGENTINA of homemade tagliolini “Every glass of wine and around 500 dishes annually, piled high with a bounty of La Cabrera Buenos Aires beer is produced in Bolivia. some of which might truffles shaved tableside.” “Unbelievable steaks and The caiman sashimi is only appear during a single Fiorella Valdesolo, editor in grilled sweetbreads and caught by indigenous Tacana service.” Nicholas Gill chief of Gather Journal great Argentine wines. It’s hunters within a quota B.A.’s most assured parrilla.” PERU DENMARK system that allows popula- 4 Peter Jon Lindberg Central Lima tions to stay healthy. Kadeau Bornholm TO “Chef Virgilio Martínez’s “Precise and delicious cook- Miramar Buenos Aires When you’re there, you have menu is based on the ing in one of the most “This off-the-beaten-path the feeling that you’re part altitudes of Peru, and while beautiful locations on the cantina porteña is the of something important.” it might sound like a preten- planet.” Matt Duckor, senior perfect lunch spot.” Ignacio Nicholas Gill, food writer 6 tious conceit, it’s actually editor at Epicurious Mattos, chef/co-owner BRAZIL MONTHS the clearest way to taste and of Estela and Café Altro Amass Copenhagen Bira de Guaratiba Rio de understand the country’s Paradiso in New York City That’s how far in advance “One simply cannot live Janeiro endemic ingredients. It’s an you should book a without Matt Orlando’s 1884 Restaurante Mendoza “The authenticmoqueca, adventure into a food table at Asador Etxebarri, in fermented potato bread.” “Francis Mallmann’s lavish Brazilian fish stew, is amaz- Apatamonasterio, frontier, and Martínez is a Seen Lippert, former Chez steak house inside the ing, as are the large prawns Spain—the most recom- keen guide.” David Prior Panisse chef and world Escorihuela Gascón winery topped with crispy garlic mended restaurant in the world, according to traveler crumbs.” Margot Janse, exec- La Mar Lima isn’t in a hurry—and you our experts. shouldn’t be either. Have a utive chef of Le Quartier “The definition of ceviche Manfreds Copenhagen Fernet and soda at the bar. Français in Franschhoek, in Peru, and therefore the “The kind of place you can Switch to a Malbec, South Africa world. Pro tip: Don’t eat the while away an afternoon,

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drinking natural and makes biscuits with pine. the goose confit, smoked eel one of the few brasseries biodynamic wines paired He’s a freaking savant.” Peter salad, golonka, and steak tar- to brew its own beer.” with edible haiku like Jon Lindberg tare.” Kate Sekules Georges Desrues spring onions with pistachio Kitty Fisher’s London The Quality Chop House Paul Bocuse Lyon cream and elderflower.” “A devilishly cozy restaurant London “Everything on the menu is Bill Addison hidden away in Shepherd “Warm, unpretentious, and classic and delicious. Eat it all, Noma Copenhagen Market, with wood-paneled 42 just plain delicious—with if you can.” Frank Castronovo “Name a restaurant trend of walls, dusty-pink velvet food and wine to match.” and Frank Falcinelli the past ten years and it is banquettes, and raffish, Number of countries Danny Meyer, CEO of Union Restaurant Chez Michel likely to have originated from our sources nominated Square Hospitality Group informal service. The aged Marseille the mad mind of chef René restaurants in. and founder of Shake Shack Galician beef is a must.” “The best bouillabaisse I’ve Redzepi. There are plenty Skye McAlpine, food writer The River Café London ever had in my life.” Daniel of imitators, but there’s only and Instagrammer “Quite possibly my favorite Humm, chef and co-owner of one master.” David Prior Lyle’s London Italian restaurant in Eleven Madison Park and Relæ Copenhagen “Chef James Lowe’s food— the world.” Danny Meyer The NoMad in New York City “Any restaurant that opens like his springy salad use of Mediterranean herbs. Rochelle Canteen London Le Bistrot du Paradou these days promising afford- of pea shoots, podded peas, Sit at the communal “Everything works for me Paradou able tasting menus and and Ticklemore cheese— table downstairs, right by inside the walls of Margot “Stone floors and walls, fam- creative cooking probably represents an evolution of the kitchen pass, with a view Henderson and Melanie ily tables, pastis, and beauti- owes chef Christian Puglisi a British cuisine from of all the action.” Steve Arnold’s art-world lunch fully executed recipes that great debt. Six years in, and sturdy nose-to-tail cooking Wilson, co-founder/CEO of spot.” Andrew Tarlow, Grandmother would have now overseen by executive to an elegant celebration the 21c Museum Hotels owner of Wythe Hotel, cooked. Go for Friday lunch.” chef Jonathan Tam, Relæ of the delicacy of the English Diner, and Marlow & Sons Libby Travers, food writer Ognisko London remains one of the most seasons.” David Prior in New York City influential and thoughtful in “Like being invited to the Au Vieux Comptoir Paris the world.” Gabe Ulla Nopi London most fabulous dinner party. I Spring London “It would be a shame to miss “Amazing and surprising love the blini with herring, “By far the prettiest dining the magret de canard, but ENGLAND room in London—and you can never go wrong with Market Bistro King’s Lynn the food is exquisite.” the specials. I plan layovers “This place is a revelation— Skye McAlpine in Paris just so I can devour unpretentiously locavore-ish, their mind-bending sweet- welcoming, and personal. St. John London breads.” Dawn Hagin, The house-made breads are “Buttery Eccles cakes with chief inspiration officer at brilliant.” Kate Sekules, food Lancashire cheese, meat pies, Lark Hotels and travel expert and tongue with pickled walnuts—all cooked to per- Chez L’Ami Jean Paris The Clove Club London fection. You’ll wonder how “Still a top contender for best “This is where young British Britain ever came to suffer traditional bistro in town, chefs take aspects of gourmet from a poor culinary reputa- albeit more Basque-inflected pub fare and good local tion.” Skye McAlpine than your typical place.” ingredients and bring them FRANCE Peter Jon Lindberg to a whole new innovative La Ferme de la Ruchotte level. I had super-tender Clamato Paris Bligny-sur-Ouche fried chicken with pine salt “I go for a glass of wine and “Frédéric Menager trained in that was excellent.” wonderful-quality oysters. some of Paris’s best kitchens Dominique Ansel It reminds me of how the city before turning his hand to was when I first lived there.” Gymkhana London rearing poultry. Every week- Alice Waters “The city’s most ambitious end he cooks lunch beneath and luxurious Indian his family home, serving Clown Bar Paris restaurant, right in the heart the best local produce from “Where you’ll find all the of elegant Mayfair.” Peter L’Arpège Paris the area.” James Henry, best chefs on a Sunday night Jon Lindberg chef at Belon in Hong Kong after their own restaurants close. There’s insanely good Kitchen Table London “CHEF ALAIN PASSARD IS Brasserie Georges Lyon offal dishes and a natural- “James Knappett harvests “An Art Deco jewel serving wine list.” Peter Jon Lindberg his own samphire from the A VEGETABLE VIRTUOSO.” traditional local cuisine Cornish coast, collects ver- like tablier de sapeur, or Frenchie Paris bena from his mom’s back- Tim Ryan, president of the pan-fried tripe, and wonder- “I usually secure a reserva- yard in Cambridgeshire, and Culinary Institute of America fully fresh seafood. It’s also tion before our flights are

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even booked. Chef Grégory virtually vanished from Marchand’s technique Roman menus: skate and blows me away.” Ford Fry, romanesco soup, brisket chef/owner of The meatballs, and roasted liver.” Optimist, BeetleCat, and Katie Parla, co-author of others in Atlanta Tasting Rome

L’Ambroisie Paris Roscioli Rome “Everything here is special, “If you love French wine from the gorgeous TST RUS S,T US , and Italian food like we do, eighteenth-century decor you’re in the right place.” to the chocolate tart, STCHISS P LAC E IS Frank Castronovo and Frank which is the absolute best.” Falcinelli Daniel Humm WORTH THE TREK Dal Pescatore Runate L’Astrance Paris “The cooking emphasizes excellence and comfort “The most balanced and Da Laura San Fruttuoso, Italy over gimmicks: chestnut joyfully bright tasting menu. “It’s likely that the food would taste just as incredible even if you didn’t have gnocchi with bottarga, Always inspired and per- to hike over a mountain or take a ferry to get there. But the simple food is saffron risotto in a pool of fectly executed.” Seen Lippert worth crawling here for: fat sheets of fresh pasta napped in Ligurian pesto; spaghetti aged balsamico, and grilled Le Baratin Paris with chopped mussels; grilled fish filleted tableside. All enjoyed with bottles eel from the Po River.” “The lovely veal brains of house wine, of course.” Christine Muhlke, editor at large for Bon Appétit Alan Sytsma, food editor of with lemon butter sauce, NYMag.com/Grub Street chives, and soft baby potatoes are simple and per- Ardigna Sicily fect.” Dominique Ansel “Deep in the Trapani alongside a delightful a stew of offal and cock’s hills, you’ll find a never-end- Le Chateaubriand Paris wine list and an ambience crests.” Georges Desrues ing parade of old-school “The tasting menu is that feels like home.” Buca dell’Orafo Florence Sicilian hits prepared by executed at just the right Libby Travers Italian grandmothers— rhythm, and the wine “I long for the tortino, a Le Club 55 Ramatuelle simple omelet made with literally.” Frank Castronovo pairings are phenomenal. and Frank Falcinelli Call exactly three weeks “This place near St-Tropez artichokes or porcini, ahead for a reservation.” has some of the best beach- depending on the season. Da Vittorio Sicily Deana Saukam front dining anywhere. It’s so delicious it defies sci- “The spaghetti with sea Crudités with anchovy dip- ence.” Mitchell Davis urchin is the best in the Le Comptoir du Relais Paris ping sauce and whole Lo Scoglio Marina del world.” Deana Saukam “It’s always crowded. Go grilled fish are my go-tos.” Cantone for lunch and order the oeufs Ken Oringer Viri Ku Cè Sicily mayonnaise, terrine of “You could try to reproduce “Seafood served straight GERMANY pâté, and whatever seems the three-ingredient from the boat—raw, Shiso Burger Berlin seasonal.” Mitchell Davis The Ledbury London zucchini-garlic spaghetti. marinated, fried, grilled. “I’d fly back for the bulgogi But even with the addition There’s no menu, they Le Servan Paris cheeseburger alone.” of the secret ingredient—a just bring you whatever is

“The super-talented Levha Sarah Khan bit of starchy pasta water, fresh that day until you sisters have updated the clas- ITALY which gives it an ineffable tell them to stop.” sic bistro.” Peter Jon Lindberg Ristorante da Cesare “SOPHISTICATED creaminess—the whole Deana Saukam experience is the very defini- Miznon Paris Albaretto della Torre Da Celeste Venice TWEEZER FOOD tion of gestalt.” Pilar Guzmán “Probably the best lunch “I have fever dreams about “A family-run restaurant on THAT’S NEVER spot in Paris. Get the whole Giaccone’s local wild L’Alchimista on the Piazza one of Venice’s fishing roasted head of cauliflower, mushroom and peach CLOYING, Montefalco islands. You sit out on the legendary in the inner circles salad.” Fiorella Valdesolo “This is Umbria on a plate. pier, with lagoon views and of Paris.” Ken Oringer JUST EXACTLY Ristorante Battaglino Bra Rabbit worth crossing not a soul in sight. The the globe for.” Julie Gibbs, Septime Paris “A traditional Piedmontese PRECIOUS ENOUGH.” whole oven-baked turbot is cookbook publisher “Thoughtful food that lets restaurant with dishes exquisite.” Skye McAlpine the produce tell its story, like the mythical finanziera, Peter Jon Lindberg, Cesare al Casaletto Rome THE NETHERLANDS contributing editor “Thoughtfully rendered Rijks Amsterdam Our contributors had a few opinions about where to eat in this classics like cacio e pepe and “Great people, stunning food country too. For their domestic recommendations, go to cntraveler pasta alla gricia, and so and concept—I go here to be .com/best-restaurants. many dishes that have inspired.” Margot Janse

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NORWAY Anya von Bremzen, food Elkano Getaria Maaemo Oslo critic and memoirist “Most of the seafood is “Chef Esben Holmboe Bang prepared on a large outdoor SPAIN may be Danish, but he’s grill, which you can smell Asador Etxebarri redefining Norwegian cui- as you approach the restau- Apatamonasterio sine at this innovative rant.” Daniel Kessler, “There’s a considered eight-table spot by turning co-owner of Bergen Hill in approach to every dish— ingredients like salted New York City mutton and pine butter house-salted, house-churned, into craveable tasting menu house-made—and then Ca Na Toneta Mallorca staples.” Matt Duckor there’s that ice cream. “The owners source every- Incredible.” Libby Travers thing from the island, PORTUGAL even some of the clay for the Zé Bota Porto La Paradeta Barcelona plates.” Andrew Tarlow “Big multi-ingredient platters “Queue outside until they blend the flavors of sea and let you in, choose the raw Rafa’s Roses land. Standouts include the seafood and the way you “The sweetest percebes veal in Madeira sauce, the want it cooked, then pay and (goose barnacles), briny miraculous cod, and the leite collect it from the kitchen. house-cured anchovies, and creme for dessert.” Super-simple, canteen-style.” John Dory on the bone Dawn Hagin Margot Janse almost brought tears to my eyes.” Luke Burgess RUSSIA Paco Meralgo Barcelona SWEDEN White Rabbit Moscow “A breezy tapas bar doing Fäviken Järpen “Vladimir Mukhin gives the classics right. Order cut- “The breakfast is outra- a futuristic twist to obses- tlefish fritters, grilled fish, geously good: porridge sively researched sixteenth- Iberian sausage, and lots of served with cloudberry century Russian recipes wine.” Matt Rodbard and archaic Slavic ingredients compote, fresh whey cheese, most Russians know only Quimet & Quimet Barcelona and black currant juice.” from fairy tales. Get the “An always-packed, always- Matt Duckor fun wine bar where every- Forward to the Past tasting Ekstedt Stockholm menu, which might include thing comes out of a can or “Niklas Ekstedt took all moose milk or the caviar a jar, conservas-style.” the electricity out of the of an albino sturgeon.” Ken Oringer kitchen and cooks purely with live fire.” Peter Jon Lindberg

Matbaren Stockholm “The beauty, tradition, and craftsmanship of Scandinavian food. The best seat is at the bar.” Marcus Samuelsson, chef, restaura- teur, and cookbook author

SWITZERLAND Kronenhalle Zurich “The food is delicious, the champagne and wine list extensive, and it has a museum-quality collection A CASE STUDY IN of art from the likes of Miró, Chagall, Picasso, and Matisse.” Daniel Humm

FRESH INGREDIENTS TURKEY Kantin Istanbul De Kas, Amsterdam “Chef Semsa Denizsel’s Black “The truest definition of farm to plate: Sea anchovies with spiced It’s literally inside a greenhouse.” rice alone are worth the trip.” Steve Wilson, co-founder/CEO of the 21c Museum Hotels Katie Parla