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Northern Africa: Morocco Africa Travel Magazine 

IT Index

2-5 I am Morocco I AM MOROCCO ... 6-9 Moroccan Handicrafts 10-13 Mountain & Desert Treks 14-15 Return to Mogador 16-19 Riads and Kasbahs 20-21 Sahara Ecotours 22-23 Medieval Schools 24-25 Berber Wedding 26-27 Berber Gites 28-31 Moroccan Vegetarian Menus 32-33 Moroccan Travel Market 34-35 Tourism Investment 36-37 Royal Air Maroc 38-39 Faces of Africa 40-64 Great Cities of Morocco Discover Marrakech Discover Casablanca Discover Tangier Discover Agadir Discover Rabat Discover Fez Discover Meknes and more ...

 Africa Travel Magazine I am Morocco, home of Africa’s oldest mon- archy, consitutional in form, with an elected parliament. I rank high on the list Africa’s I AM MOROCCO ... prime tourism destinations, generating over 2 billion per year in foreign currency. I am located in Northern Africa, with coastlines along the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. I am a stable and democratic country linking Sub-Saharan Africa and Western Europe, separated by the Straits of Gibraltar, a short ferry ride. In area I am slightly larger than the state of California and the same size as Iraq. I am bordered by Algeria to the east, Spain to the north, three small Span- ish enclaves and Mauritania to the south via my Western Saharan territories. Most of my south east area is in the Sahara Desert and as such is generally sparsely populated My status I am a member of the Arab League, Arab Maghreb Union, Francophonie, Organization of the Islamic Conference, Mediterranean Dialogue group, and Group of 77. I received my independence from France in 1956. My current population is more than 30 million. My official language is Arabic, Berber dia- lect - with French popular as the language of business, government and diplomacy and English widely spoken. My Ethnic groups are as follows: Arab-Berber 99.1%, other 0.7%, Jewish 0.2% My religions: Muslim 98.7%, Christian 1.1%, Jewish 0.2%. I am the third most populous Arab country, after Egypt and Sudan. Most of my people practice Sunni Islam and are of Berber, Arab or mixed Arab-Berber stock. Great Cities of Morocco I am famous for my Imperial Cities. Casa- blanca is my business and economic capital, and has the Northern Africa’s largest seaport. A modern autoroute connects Casablanca with other major centers, and the railways system is well advanced, with seamless ser- vice to the Mohammed V International Air- port, with over 6.2 million passengers annually. Continued on page 40

Africa Travel Magazine  I AM MOROCCO , FROM THE ATLANTIC OCEAN AND MEDITERRANEAN SEA TO MOUNTAINS AND DESERT From page 2

It is home base to RoyalAir Maroc, Jet4you, Air Arabia Maroc and Regional Air Lines. Rabat is my administrative capital - tradi- tional yet modern and elegant, with wide boulevards with trees, flowers, gardens and luxurious boutiques. Small wonder they call in the Garden City. An exciting development currently un- derway is a rapid light rail system linking Rabat to its sister city of Sale. Fés, the Imperial City, is my spiritual and cultural center and original capital, dating back to the 800s. Meknes is famous for its picturesque and exotic souks (markets) with colorful displays of foods, handicrafts and textiles. Close by is the Roman City of Volubilis, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Marrakech has many historical sites as well as exquisite shopping bazaars. Opportuni- ties to experience luxurious palaces, exotic kasbahs, museums, casinos, golf courses, mountains, lush oases, and fabulous market- places. Other cities include Agadir, Essaouira, Fes, Marrakech, Meknes, Mohammadia, Oujda, Ouarzazat, Safi, Salè, Tangier and Tétouan. My climate is Mediterranean, becoming more extreme towards my mountainous interior regions. My coastal plains are rich and accordingly, they comprise the back- bone for agriculture. Forests cover about

 Africa Travel Magazine I AM MOROCCO , FROM THE ATLANTIC OCEAN AND MEDITERRANEAN SEA TO MOUNTAINS AND DESERT 12% of the land while arable land Mellal, Ben Slimane, Boulemane, Cadi Ayyad University, accounts for 18%. 5% is irrigated. Casablanca*, Chaouen, El Marrakech I am known for my wildlife biodi- Jadida, El Kelaa des Srarhna, Chouaib Doukkali University , versity, with birds representing the Er Rachidia, Essaouira, Fes, El Jadida most important fauna Figuig, Guelmim, Ifrane, Kenitra, Hassan II Ain Chok University , I m an ethnically diverse country with a rich culture and civilization, Khemisset, Khenifra, Khouribga, Casablanca having hosted many people com- Laayoune, Larache, Marrakech, Hassan II Mohammedia Univer- ing from East (Phoenicians, Car- Meknes, Nador, Ouarzazate, sity , Mohammedia thaginians, Jews and Arabs), South Oujda, Rabat-Sale*, Safi, Settat, Hassan Premier University , (Sub-Saharan Africans) and North Sidi Kacem, Tanger, Tan-Tan, Settat (Romans, Vandals, Andalusians (in- Taounate, Taroudannt, Tata, Taza, Ibn Tofail University , cluding Moors and Jews)). All those Tetouan, Tiznit . note: three ad- Kenitra civilizations have had an impact on ditional provinces of Ad Dakhla Ibnou Zohr University , Agadir my social structure. (Oued Eddahab), Boujdour, and Institute of Management and I am any ally of the United States Es Smara as well as parts of Tan- Business Technology (IMBT) via the Moroccan-American Treaty Tan and Laayoune fall within Rabat of Friendship, the oldest non-broken Moroccan-claimed Mohamed Premier University , friendship treaty. It was negotiated by Thomas Barclay and signed by Executive branch: Chief of state: Oujda John Adams and Thomas Jefferson. King MOHAMED VI (since 23 Mohammed V University, Rabat It has been in continuous effect July 1999), Mohammed V University since 1787. Head of government: Prime Min- Agdal, Rabat Portuguese efforts to invade and ister ___. Mohammed V University control the Atlantic coast in the Education is free and compulsory Souissi, Rabat fifteenth century did not profoundly through primary school (age 15). Moulay Ismail University , affect the Mediterranean heart of List of universities in Morocco Meknès Morocco. Many former Portuguese Main article: List of universities Sidi Mohamed Benabdellah Uni- forts are integrated into my coastal in Morocco versity , Fes cities. Abdelmalek Essaâdi University , University of Al Karaouine, With my capital at Rabat, there Tétouan - Tanger Fes are 37 provinces and 2 wilayas; Al Akhawayn University, Université Moulay Slimane (for- Agadir, Al Hoceima, Azilal, Beni Ifrane merly called Cadi Ayyad Univer

Africa Travel Magazine  La Mamounia, Marrakech. A Grand Hotel’s Joyous Return to Elegance

by Jerry W. Bird ing the Art Deco style so popular Association held its first Cultural in the 1920s, com- and Ecotourism Symposium here Muguette Goufrani, our maga- bined with tradi- in 1996, our zine’s Associate Editor, whose tional Moroccan magazine was father owned a thriving tour opera- designs that were represented by tion in Morocco, has fond memo- carried through to editors Muguette ries of La Mamounia. “This grand the furnishings and Goufani and hotel was a favorite meeting decor. Karen Hoffman, place in Marrakech for our fam- A Magnet both of whom ily, friends and clients,” she said. for Prestige have participat- Muguette mentioned that the hotel Events ed in ATA events got its name from the beautiful, Marrakech is well for 15 years. spacious, and perfumed gardens known for its conference facili- Marrakech captured the hearts of - a wedding gift to Prince Moulay ties -as a magnet for prestige all delegates, including African Mamoun from his father over 200 events - meetings, international Tourism Ministers and travel- years ago. Prost and Marchisio ar- events, trade missions and sum- tourism professionals from the chitects designed the hotel, featur- mits. When the Africa Travel USA, Canada and Africa.  Africa Travel Magazine La Mamounia, Marrakech. A Grand Hotel’s Joyous Return to Elegance

We were not disappointed! Photo Ops galore! cock’s “The Man Who Knew Too During this summer’s visit for a Much.” Charlton Heston, Omar Where else are many walls and Bastille Day gala evening hosted buildings tinted in a rich pastel Sharif, Nicole Kidman, Sylves- by the French Consulate, we ter Stallone and Tom Cruise are peach, with broad boulevards and were simply amazed at the major promenades lined with rows and a few of the celebrities who’ve development and the sophistica- stayed here. Modern as today’s rows of orange trees, with ripe tion of the city since 2002. More fruit dangling from their branches most elegant world class hotels in recently we did a complete city terms of facilities, yet furnished like holiday ornaments? tour. Learning that La Mamounia In 2002, following the ATA Con- and decorated in the art deco tra- was closed for major renovations dition, with an authentic Moorish ference in Fez, our media team of at the time, we waited eagerly for Muguette Goufrani, Broadcaster touch. starters. its grand reopening. The result For more information on La Ma- Ogo Sow and myself inspected is a fitting tribute to well known a wide cross-section of hotel moounia, e-mail airhwy@smartt. Speaking of movies, several well com facilities in Marrakech to give known films used La Mamounia our readers and listeners a word as a setting, including “Morocco” picture of the choices available. with Marlene Dietrich, Hitch- Africa Travel Magazine  La Mamounia: A World Class Dining Experience  Africa Travel Magazine A Grand Dining Experience According to Muguette and her family, La Mamounia has always ranked among the leading hotels in North Africa and the world for the quality and variety of cui- sine. Now, with new facilities and world class service, the experience is better than ever, with five bars and four outstanding restaurants - Le Marocain, Le Marocain, Le Framamouniançais, L’Italien, and Le Pavillon de la piscine. Author Habeeb Salloum, one of the top contributors to Africa Travel Magazine, speaks highly of traditional Moroccan cuisine of which you will find the finest on the menu at Le -Mo rocain in addition to dishes from around the world.

La Mamounia: A World Class Dining Experience Africa Travel Magazine  by Habeeb Salloum

In this rushed 20th century there are not many of us who know that in Morocco there still ex- ists a medieval world of crafts- men who are creating, with their hands, masterpieces of art. Incorporating a synthesis of the Libyco-Berber, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, African and An- dalusian artistic traditions, these artisans have a long and honored history. Whole families, century after- century, handing down the trades from father to sons, have kept Motional fee based on number of nights. Prices and dates for each of the tours are subject to change based on total number of partici- pants. Photo (above right) Rabat, Mor.rocco’s artistic traditions alive. The families know-how, always open to contributions from the outside world, are con- stantly improved without deviat- ing from tradition. New ideas are assimilated, brewed, melted, then re-created to become genu- ine Moroccan art. These craftsmen who, in our time, compete with modern mechanical technology, are able to survive and, in fact, prosper. Unbelievably, these Moroccan skilled workmen, unlike their brethren in other parts of the world, have fought against the machines of the modern age and have not lost the battle. With skills inherited from their fa-

Photos: Left- Craftsman at ITB Ber- line, 2009. Right- ornate lamp at Atlas Hotel,, Essaouira, a Royal Air Marox\ property.

10 Africa Travel Magazine The Splendid Handicrafts of Morocco frames and countless other ar- thers, they produce, today, some arabesque designs and intricate ticles were being decorated with of the finest handmade products floral motifs are produced with sumptuous motifs comprising in the world. hands inheriting the skills of geometric designs, arabesques If one wishes to be transported centuries. and stylized flowers or stars. to a world of ancient oriental Candelabra and lanterns with The artistry of these Moroc- splendor, Fez el-Bali or the old green, red and yellow glass in- can craftsmen was dazzling and section of Fez is the place to visit. serts are in demand by the many breathtaking. However, this Within its walls no automobile visitors Morocco hosts annually. should not have come as a sur- is allowed to enter and, as it was Numerous restaurants and night- prise since the ancestors of these in the medieval ages, all work is clubs make use of them to create leather artisans have been world- carried on by man or donkey. The for their clients a relaxed aura. renowned hundreds of years. In craftsmen, like their forefathers in The colored lights project to the the Middle Ages Moroccan leath- the days when Moorish Spain and customers an haunting and ro- er was so famous that the best Morocco were one, still turn out mantic atmosphere. leather of that time and Moroccan superb handmade articles which Artistry in Lighting were synonymous terms. dazzle the onlooker. In Morocco, a room lit with Brass and Copper In the same way as they have colored lanterns is always com- Next to leather products, the been for hundreds of years, these plemented with attractive hand- craftsmen of Fez and Marrakesh artisans are grouped in numerous made carpets. The oldest of that are world famous for their brass streets specializing in different country*s handicrafts, they come and copper utensils. In the shops crafts. Fascinating to any visitor, in basically two types: rural and and homes, gleaming brass and the souks not only in Fez but also urban. However, these are di- copperware entice the tourist in the other cities of Morocco, ap- vided into a wide range of many and Moroccan alike. Trays in all pear to come straight out of The styles. sizes, ashtrays, braziers, incense Arabian Nights. World Famous Carpets burners, door knockers, kettles, Artistry in Fine Leather Rural carpets, known as Berber sugar boxes, teapots and other I will never forget the first time I carpets, are the oldest type and articles decorated with interlacing walked down into the heart the most common. Some of the medieval part of Fez have very thick woolen and saw artisans working piles while others have amid shops displaying their short goat or camel hair colorfully embossed ar- piles. In almost all cases, ticles of leather. they reflect the colors of Green, red, violet, white the landscapes where they and yelow, marvelously are made. Hence, they treated by that city*s cel- come mostly in beige, ebrated tanners and dyers, brown and tan with a few leather was being gilded in black, red and white. and transformed into doz- Some have designs recall- ens of products. Book cov- ing prehistoric inscriptions ers, wallets and purses in while others have geomet- all shapes and forms, desk ric compositions made up sets, belts, hassocks, photo of lozenges, arrows and Africa Travel Magazine 11 saw-tooth lines. In Fez, the crafts- Urban carpets are a men are well newer type of rug. known for their They were only skill in decorating introduced from the all types of struc- East into Morocco tures with cedar in the 18th century. wood, which is Rabat and Sale be- abundant in the came the production nearby forests. centers of these rich Ceilings, doors carpets. Tradition- and windows ally, the urban carpets are made attrac- have a harmony of tive with zouak, seven colors and a a type of decor multitude of designs. dominated by Three bands of un- geometric fig- equal width frame a ures. The city*s rectangular field with artisans, as well a star-shaped motif as those in neigh- in the center. Bands boring Meknes, of different colors in also specialize geometric or floral in masharabiehs designs encompass and geometric patterns. By using (screens made these and, at each end, there is a thin veneers of the same wood of small pieces of cedar wood kind of mihrab arch. Fine carpet in a checkered design, or with turned on a lathe and then assem- experts indicate that these color- chevrons, stars and other forms bled in clever designs). Delicate ful rugs bring to mind garden alternating with mother-of-pearl, and appealing these screens make paths around a pool surrounded ebony and silver they bring out the windows of the traditional by flowers and pet birds. the subtleties of the they wood. homes attractive. In the homes of the wealthy in The saying that the wood crafts- Ceramics Morocco the handmade rugs are men of the city combine and Alongside the inlaid articles are usually associated with inlaid fur- harmonize their inlaying to sing a the ceramics which beautify, niture and other wooden knick- song of beauty has much merit. besides the homes, fountains, knacks usually made from they palaces, mosques and wood (a type of oak). Es- public buildings. The saouira, famous for its mar- tile-makers whose an- quetry, is where many of these cestors made Andalusia charming pieces of furniture, an earthly paradise still desks, all kinds of tables, practice their trade in Fez chests and jewelry boxes are and Meknes. Through- made. out Morocco, tiled green Artistry in Woodwork roofs harmonizing with The city’s skilled artisans the surrounding greenery polish the hard they to a satin and breathtaking tiled finish, then inlay it with cedar, blue, turquoise, white and lemon wood, ebony, mother- yellow patios, rooms and of-pearl and silver in floral hallways are all the handi-

12 Africa Travel Magazine work of these master craftsmen. For the preparation of their food the Moroccans, in the main, employ glazed red or brown pottery. However, enameled ornamental pottery made in Fez, Meknes, Sale and Safi are pro- duced with the finesse of Italian or Spanish wares. Amphoras, dishes, jars, pots and vases are decorated mainly with cobalt blue on an enamel background. Cross-stitch designs, interlaced curves, polygonal stars and geo- metric or floral designs are then applied in black to these colorful utensils. In addition, in Safi, ce- ramic artisans produce in darker colors the metallic sheen found in Malaga pottery which itself was initiated by the Arabs. In all aspects of the handiwork industries, nothing is created hastily. The taste for the su- perb, along with the passage of time has created perfection. For export, the production of handicrafts is strictly regulated by the Moroccan government which allows only the topnotch products to be exported outside the country. In the country itself, the cooperative shops Coopartim sell handmade goods of guaran- teed quality at reasonable prices. Hence, a visitor need not worry about bargaining if he/she is not inclined. Nevertheless, whether sold in these regulated stores, in the tra- ditional shops, or laid out on the sidewalks or on the bare ground

Photos: From top left- (1) Metal sculptures of Gnaoua musicians, Atlas Hotel, Essaouira. Moroccan crafts at ITB Berlin (3) Leather handbags, souk, Essaouira. Africa Travel Magazine 13 MOROCCO: FROM MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS TO ROMANTIC KASBAHS AND DESERTS Story and photos by It was a fabulous beginning city’s enchanting medieval pal- Habeeb Salloum for the trip we intended to take aces and skilled craftsmen when across the Atlas Mountains to the suddenly, the voice of Abdelatif, Thanks to the Africa Travel land of kasbahs (mud castles) and magnified by our small auto bus’s Association’s 6th Cultural and deserts. microphone, boomed, “During Ecotourism Symposium in Fez, Fez, with its air of the Arabian this journey, we will see some of Morocco during the Interna- Nights, was still on my mind the most magnificent scenery in tional Year of Ecotourism, as our tour the world. It will our ATA web site is receiving group of five, be a journey of a flood of e-mail requests for along with make-believe”. information on the historic host Abdelatif, A lady next to city. The following article by our guide, me snickered, Habeeb Salloum captures the traveled “He’s like all magic of Fez and its surround- through the the other guides, ing area thanks to the writer’s foothills of always exagger- professional style. the Atlas ating.” “We will For two days we had explored Mountains see!”, I thought Fez, Morocco’s historic city, towards the to myself as we glorifying in its ancient section desert fron- drove through a which remains enclosed within tier town green fertile val- its ancient ramparts. Inside no of Erfoud, ley, covered with auto is allowed. Only donkeys some 480 olive trees, many contest with humans the few km ( 298 mi) newly planted, feet wide medieval streets. away. I was set in the midst Seemingly, we had traveled still dream- of sprouting back a thousand years in time. ing of the wheat fields. 14 Africa Travel Magazine MOROCCO: FROM MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS TO ROMANTIC KASBAHS AND DESERTS After about a 40 km (24 mi) privately built Al-Akhawayn Uni- a calm and friendly atmosphere. drive, we turned and began to versity , specializing in foreign Besides being a rest stopover, travel upward on a road edged language training. travelers come to this town to vis- by stately maple trees, into the Downward, we drove through it the nearby convent of Kasbah Middle Atlas Mountains. Further oak forests until, on the outskirts Myriem - a nunnery staffed by a away, small apple orchards and of Azrou, we turned upward. A handful of European nuns who patches of pine trees, increasing short drive and the oak forests make their living selling carpets. as we moved along, dotted the were soon inter-mixed with the We stopped to refresh ourselves slope of the hills. Past the 1,220 majestic cedar. However, this at the Kasbah Hotel Restaurant m (4,000 ft) high red-roofed all-encompassing greenery was Asmaa - a traditional kasbah- resort town of Imeuzzer der followed by a barren countryside style building whose interior is Kandar, we passed through an - the home of shepherds and their beautified by fountains and tiles oak forest, then barren land until flocks. We drove through this in traditional Moroccan fashion. we entered the attractive 1,650 arid Middle Atlas landscape, in Soon thereafter, we were driv- m (5,412 ft) high skiing town of the shadows of the snow-capped ing in the barren High Atlas until Ifrane with its red-sloped roofs. peaks of the High Atlas Moun- we passed a spot 1,907 m (6,255 A modern and prosperous resort tains, until we stopped at Midelt ft) above sea level - the highest town, it is labeled by travelers as - a town of 70,000, located at point we were to reach during our the ‘Switzerland of Morocco’. the entrance to the Berber region journey. From this high pass, the Located 60 km (37 mi) from Fez, in Morocco - 200 km (124 mi) road wound its way downward this European-looking town is southeast of Fez. through an arid landscape until snow-bound in winter and ideal Situated between the Middle and we reached the Ziz River - a thin for skiing. It is the playground of High Atlas Mountains, 1,525 m line of greenery in an otherwise the rich - the place where afflu- (5,000 ft) above sea level, this barren countryside. ent Moroccans build their second windswept town, an important Habeeb Salloum (continued) home. Ifrane is also noted for the center for local carpets, defuses

Africa Travel Magazine 15 Habeeb Salloum. From page 7 Once known as Kasr es Souk, ocean and sea creatures from its name was changed in 1979 that era are found in abundance, At places, the road wound its to honor Moulay Rachid, father fossilized in the local rock forma- wayhigh above the river, then of Morocco’s ruling Alaouite tions. A thriving tourist indus- suddenly it would descend to the dynasty. Built at the crossroads try has been established by the water’s edge where vegetables of the main caravan routes to the fashioning into works of art these thrive under olive, palm and Dadés Valley and the Tafilalet fossilized creatures of the sea and many other type of trees. The area, Errachida us by the beauty the manufacture of black marble scene brought to mind the words of its kasbak-like structures, found in the area of the poet-astronomer Omar seemingly all newly built. A city The last town in Morocco to Khayam, “Between the desert of some 200,000, with agriculture be occupied by the French who and the sown.” the main source of revenue, it ap- thereafter made it into a military After passing a dam on the Ziz peared attractive and had an air of outpost, Erfoud is a typical tourist River, which supplies the nearby prosperity. destination. A bustling place of city of Errachida with drinking From Errachida, the highway some 40,000, its dusty streets, all water, we entered that town - continued to hug the Ziz River, year round, are usually filled with some 400 km (248 mi) from Fez. forming the largest valley oasis in travelers from the four corners Morocco. The of the world, coming to examine whole valley is its fossils and exploring it’s sand covered with dunes. This is especially true aspin trees when the annual Date Festival is and date palm. held in October. This shimmer- October had long gone when we ing field of landed in Erfoud, but there was green stayed still much to do in and around with us until that desert town. After resting we reached the that night in our kasbah-like desert town hotel, the next day we set out of Erfoud, for nearby Rissani where the Ziz saturated with River disappears into the desert. modern build- Just before entering that town, ings, built in we stopped at the spot where the replicas of the now almost disappeared historic ancient kas- city of Sijilmassa once stood. bahs - huge Erected in 757 A.D., it was the fortress struc- first true Muslim city in North tures, once Africa. Subsequently, it became castle-homes a major staging post on the trans- of emirs, tribal Saharan caravan route, especially chiefs and in the trading of salt. It once had government a population of 100,000 and was officials. the capital of the Tafilalt region. Some 350 Today, only the desert wind and million years blowing sand swirl around the ago the region little of what remains of Sijil- around Erfoud massa. was a huge In a few minutes we passed the

16 Africa Travel Magazine town’s gate and entered Rissani, that Hilary’s grandfather, a Mo- the law. a town of 30,000. Strangely, the roccan Jew living in Rissani, 6) Tips are expected for every setting of the town and its en- married an American woman, service - always carry small virons along the Ziz River with then immigrated to the U.S.A. He change. heavily populated villages, seem- went on, “You know that Hilary 7) Bargain for all tourist items ingly living in the past, its canals, visited her grandfather’s home in - never shop with a guide - his building styles and the nature of Rissani and along with our king’s commission is usually about its inhabitants, have often re- sister Lalla Myriem visited the 30%. minded travelers of the villages Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Chérif 8) At night, avoid dark alleyways. edging the Nile in Egypt. - forbidden to non-Muslims.” He Morocco is safer than many other Just inside the city gates, we continued, “At the same time, she countries, but muggers still stalk stopped at a tiny museum where also visited her sister’s daughter the lonely streets. we examined artifacts found in who is married to a Berber tour- 9) When in Erfoud, for a breath- Sijilmassa. We then moved on to ist guide and lives in the Atlas taking taste of the desert, one visit the Mausoleum of Moulay Mountains.” I looked at Muham- should make a trip to Merzouga, Ali Chérif, ancestor of Moulay el mad in disbelief. Was he telling an oasis near the Algerian border Rachid, the founder of the pres- the truth? I had no idea! But it surrounded by sand dunes - some ent ruling Alaouite dynasty. A was an interesting story which more than 50 m 164 ft) high. The colorful authentic Berber market capped our thrilling mountain oasis’s lake is a favorite spot for was our next stop after which we journey to the land of kasbahs migrating birds, especially in drove to the Kasbah of Moulay and desert. February and March, when the Ismail - a tiny town inside the Dayet Srji flamingos appear. On city walls. Here, we spent some Facts About Morocco: the other hand, if traveling the time examining beautiful rugs for (1) Nationals of most countries desert is on one’s mind, trips to sale in converted old homes. do not need visas to enter Mo- the desert can be arranged by tour Back in Erfoud, while my travel- rocco- only valid passports. companies in Erfoud. ing companions left to view the 2) If you know French, its is easy 10) Two good places to stay in spectacular sunset over some to get around in Morocco. Every- Erfoud: Hotel Salem - a 4 star of the highest sand dunes in one speaks French, but many also abode - from $56. To $80. A the world, I explored the town. know English. room; Hotel Ziz, an excellent 3 Tired, I sat down on a bench by 3) Unit of currency in Morocco star abode located in the heart a well-dressed young man and is the dirham which fluctuates at of town - $34. a room.Note: All introduced myself. Soon my new around 10 to 12 to a dollar. Ex- prices quoted are in U.S. dollars. found companion, Muhammad, change money at banks or hotels For Further information, Contact: and myself were talking together - rates are all the same with no Moroccan National Tourist in a friendly fashion. commission. Office: Suite 1460, 2001 rue Uni- When he found out that I would 4) When traveling in Morocco, versité, Montreal, Quebec, Can- be writing an article about the Er- trains are the most comfortable. ada H3A 2A6. Tel: +1 514 842 foud region, Muhammad asked, Buses are inexpensive - CTM the 8111/2. Fax: +1 514 842 5316. “Did you know that Hilary Clin- best. Small autos, with unlimited Moroccan Tourist Office: 20 East ton is from here?” Taken aback, mileage and fully insured, rent 46th St., Suite 1201, New York, I looked at him in astonishment, for about $50. a day, fully in- NY 10017, U.S.A. Tel.: 212-557- “Hilary Clinton from here! You sured. 2520. Fax: 212-949-8148. Web must be kidding!” He smiled, 5) The mass of hustlers which Site: http://www.tourism-in-mo- “Haven’t you heard about her once infested the tourist spots rocco.com/ Moroccan origin?’ in Morocco have been greatly Muhammad went on to explain diminished by the strong arm of Habeeb Salloum

Africa Travel Magazine 17 HAPPY RETURNS TO MOGADOR FOR FESTIVAL D’ESSAOUIRA GNAOUA, A MUSICAL BANQUET By Jerry W. Bird Known as the “windy city,” Essaouira is and their clients. It’s been seven long years Morocco’s wind-surfing capital, where We are enjoying a nautical view of Es- since we first toured Mo- the sky is ablaze with multi colored saouira’s historic seaport, once known as rocco with the Ministry kites from dawn to dusk every day. Mogador, from our dockside table at “ Chez of Tourism as part of the Flashback 2002 Sam. ”Highly recommended by locals in the ATA media team. This Here we are, basking in the noonday sun on know, this charming waterfront restaurant is surrounded by fishing boats and marine activ- time, our purpose is to set North Africa’s Atlantic Coast at Essaouira, ity. Men repairing fish-nets, shucking shrimp up Africa Travel Maga- Morocco, following a journey of discovery which began in the Imperial City of Fès and and sorting sardines, looming skeletons of zine’s first office in Africa, here at continued via Rabat, Casablanca and Mar- boats under construction add to the scene. Essaouira, a beautiful Atlantic Coast rakech. In a few days, we will drive south The interior of Chez Sam reminds me of city, once known as Mogador. A world- to the resort city of Agadir, with its luxury Trader Vic’s, once a popular hang-out in our class golf course development, with beach front hotels and lavish casinos, cater- home port of Vancouver, and Ivar’s in Seat- multi-star hotels is underway and many ing to the jet set of Europe, Africa and Mid- tle. The fresh seafood, decor and atmosphere other attractions are on the horizon. dle East. Most North Americans have yet are magnificent and the impressive gallery of Since arriving from Paris on Royal Air to really discover Morocco’s coastal resort celebrity photos; Louis ‘Satchmo’ Armstrong, Maroc, we have visited Rabat, with cities - and that’s a prime opportunity for Stevie Wonder and others, attests to the fact that the owner comes from the world of jazz. brief stops at Safi and Al Jaddida, spent our magazine, read by travel professionals Sam and his huge, jet black dog Nikita joined two days in Casablanca and another our table a few days later, and thanks to that in Marrakech, meeting old friends and rendezvous, I was able to learn the history of new. Some of our positive impressions this outstanding restaurateur and the origin were a new Autoroute, with divided of the Essaouira (Mogador) seaport’s most highway and the start of a Tramway popular eatery. system in Rabat. Muguette’s brother, Freshness is the order of the day, every day Maurice Goufrani of the Pompidou at Chez Sam and also at the many outdoor Centre in Paris, asked us to make sure stalls, perched side-by-side along the dock we covered Festival Gnaoua ( Gnawa) area. Each offers visitors fresh caught products from the sea to the table and each Essouira, a unique musical experience, competes vigorously with its neighbour June 24-29, 2009. This event is high on for our attention. Barkers, menu boards our agenda and is in the Venues World and tempting displays of fresh catch from Edition, now available for download at the Atlantic is their marketing approach. I www.africa-ata.org/venues.pdf/ enjoyed a generous portion of sole fillet and

18 Africa Travel Magazine HAPPY RETURNS TO MOGADOR FOR FESTIVAL D’ESSAOUIRA GNAOUA, A MUSICAL BANQUET fresh salad for less than five dollars U.S. My the weather is as balmy as any spring We then moved to the hotel’s beach side two colleagues split a large crab for a similar afternoon, and the buyers and browsers restaurant, where the music was going full tab. Overhead a flotilla of sea gulls was are out in force, filling the Medina with its tilt. One of local girls modeled Muguette’s dipping and diving against a background of dozens of shops and stalls. We found an bottle- green gown with shoulder wrap- one crashing whitecaps, rocky outcrops and rug- excellent Cyber Cafe right by the entrance of several gifts we received from our friend ged remnants of the centuries old Portuguese and are getting our dozens of e-mail letters and former Tourism Minister, Hon. Sylla fort that marks the city’s place in history. ready to send around the world. It’s a great Diakite of Conakry, Guinea. The Moroccan Some call this the “city of winds ... and when way to stay in touch, which is why we al- Khaftan fashion segment of the evening we visited Essaouira earlier this same week, ways carry our ‘portable office - a reliable proved highly popular. a minor storm was brewing. Gusts swept the Macintosh laptop computer. Doors of Hospitality area clear of surfers, bathers, wanderers and Arabian Nights On New Years Another friendly, convenient place to meet beachcombers. A few lonesome camel driv- Eve in Morocco is the Hotel des Isles. Next to the Medina ers still tended their stalls near the far end One of my favorite meeting places in and offers a full range of services. Since we of the crescent shaped beach, and the waves Essaouira is the 5-star Sofitel Mogador, spent almost two weeks in the immediate grew even more fierce as they pounded the located on the main promenade facing the area, we are pleased to recommend a stay shore. But today, near the end of December, beach. Here’s where we spent one of the in Essaouira to any traveler looking for most enjoyable New Year’s something different. Photos courtesy: Thi- Eve celebrations in years. erry Mareschal and the Essaouira Cultural It started with an invitation Center. to a Fashion Show, which continued into the wee Mistral Travel Ltd. hours. For starters, the ho- A tourist transport company for Travel tel’s dining room staff were Agents sending clients to Morocco. New all decked like Aladdin (of Toyota Land-Cruisers, latest model Ford the lamp), and the entire Transit 14 seat Mini-Buses, 32/46 Coaches. ballroom looked like a Tours and accommodation arranged also scene from Arabian Nights, Airport Transfers. Business clients wel- complete with belly danc- comed.Contact us for your requirements. ers, mariachis with their Tel/Fax: (00 212) (0) 44476129 Spanish guitars, Magicians E-Mail: [email protected] and special visual and Web Site: www.mistraltravel .com musical effects. The entire George David Cook, Directeur, Essaouira, evening was unforgettable. Maroc . Tel/fax 212 0444 76129. Africa Travel Magazine 19 SCENES OF MOROCCO’S ATLANTIC COAST LIFESTYLE: THE HARBOR AT ESSAOUIRA RETAINS THE MAGICAL SPIRIT OF OLD MOGADOR

From our magazine’s African office at Essouira our It’s a photographer’s delight with and interesting kalei- editors explore this ageless city, so rich in culture, from doscope of activities - seagulls fighting for scraps, fish- art galleries and strolling musicians to the dawn to dusk ermen mending their nets, workmen applying coats of activity at the medina and adjoining harbor - one of the paint to the hulls of fishing craft. On this warm, sunny best anchorages on Africa’s Atlantic Coast. day in mid October, the weather was the best we’ve

20 Africa Travel Magazine SCENES OF MOROCCO’S ATLANTIC COAST LIFESTYLE: THE HARBOR AT ESSAOUIRA RETAINS THE MAGICAL SPIRIT OF OLD MOGADOR

experienced since summer. However wonder Essouira is the wind-surfing beach for Marrakech, but in return, with the powerful trade winds and capital of Morocco. We often meet families from Essouira often drive to current from the Canary Islands, groups of people from Marrakech Marrakech for upscale shopping in the visitor can expect a refresh- which is only a few hours away by its many stores and boutiques. ing breeze most of the year. Small car. Many consider this area the Continued on page 52. Africa Travel Magazine 21 Behold what treasures African Lifestyles await in the heart of a typical Moroccan Medina. THE RIADS OF MOROCCO. VIVE LA DIFFERENCE!

by Muguette Goufrani

Homes of Character These traditional homes of Morocco, which many referred to as riads, villas, dars, kasbahs or guest homes, range from the simplest structures to the most sumptuous, luxurious palaces. Legendary comparisons are made to the Garden of Eden, with its fruit- laden trees, or a treasure-filled hideaway from A Thousand and One Nights. Cascading waterfalls, inner fountains with roses petals and bird baths, interior and rooftop tented patios, refreshing sauna-like hammams - you will find all of this and much more. Many riads are showpieces of Moroccan architecture and culture, a constant challenge to innovative decorators attracted by the opportunity to renovate and improve, with amazing transformations from ugly ducklings to graceful swans. While the concept is the same, each riad is unique in its own way, as in the hands and eyes of the owner or designer. Africa Travel Magazine’s editorial team never tires of visiting a riad, whether it be in the heart of a médina, a desert oasis or a retreat high in the Atlas Mountains. In our first Morocco edition, Habeeb Salloum describes the experience this way, “We stopped to refresh ourselves at the Kasbah Hotel Restaurant Asmaa - a traditional kasbah- style building whose interior is beautified by fountains and tiles in traditional Moroccan fashion. Soon thereafter, we were driving in the barren High Atlas until we passed a spot 1,907 m (6,255 ft) above sea level - the highest point we were to reach during our journey. From this high pass, the road wound its way downward through an arid landscape until we reached the Ziz River - a thin line of greenery in an otherwise barren countryside. At places, the road wound its way high above the river, then suddenly it would descend to the water’s edge where vegetables thrive under olive, palm and many other type of trees. The scene brought to mind the words of the poet- astronomer Omar Khayam, “Between the desert and the sown.” 22 Africa Travel Magazine African Lifestyles

THE RIADS OF MOROCCO. VIVE LA DIFFERENCE!

How it started Médina. My brother Maurice Goufrani infested the tourist spots in Morocco have The idea for our World Edition supplement of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris been greatly diminished by the strong arm on Moroccan homes and lifestyle was often stays when he visits the Essaouira of the law. born in 1996 during the first Africa Travel Cultural Complex, or attends the popular 6) Tips are expected for every service - Association (ATA) Conference held in Ganaoua Festival, a three day banquet of always carry small change. this fascinating country. The venue was music. 7) Bargain for all tourist items - never shop Marrakech and the focus was on Cultural Our current stay in Essaouira has given with a guide - his commission is usually and Ecotourism. The stage was set in the Homes and Lifestyles project a giant about 30%. 2002, when myself, Editor Jerry Bird and leap forward. In recent months, we have 8) At night, avoid dark alleyways. Morocco broadcaster Ogo Sow toured the major traveled the Atlantic Coast from Agadir is safer than many other countries, but cities from Fez to Rabat, Casablanca, in the South, via Safi, Al Jaddida and muggers still stalk the lonely streets. Essaouira and Marrakech. One of the Casablanca to beyond Rabat. Other areas 9) When in Erfoud, for a breath-taking highlights was our visit to several of are in our sights as we develop the Africa taste of the desert, one should make a trip the boutique hotels, riads and luxury Travel Library through our series of World to Merzouga, an oasis near the Algerian resorts, such as the Amanjena with its 32 Editions and supplements. border surrounded by sand dunes - some Pavilions, six, two-storey maisons and the Living the Moroccan Lifestyle more than 50 m 164 ft) high. The oasis’s Al-Hamra Maison, with its pools and oasis We are actually living in a riad. When my lake is a favorite spot for migrating birds, of palms and olive trees in the foreground mother retired over a decade ago, she had especially in February and March, when the and the High Atlas Mountains as a an architect friend design her a villa in the Dayet Srji flamingos appear. On the other backdrop. Our editor has these comments traditional Moroccan style and during the hand, if traveling the desert is on one’s interim the place has taken shape. Now mind, trips to the desert can be arranged by that we have arrived to stay it will become tour companies in Erfoud. the African base for our magazine and 10) Two good places to stay in Erfoud: growing library of magazines, books and Hotel Salem - a 4 star abode - from $56. To media resources. At the moment we are $80. A room; Hotel Ziz, an excellent 3 star developing the garden area, which will be a abode located in the heart of town - $34. a pleasant retreat, with additional shade trees, room. flowers, birds and fish pools. The roof Note: All prices quoted are in U.S. dollars. terrace has an outstanding view of the new This feature continues on the world class golf course, with construction following page. about Marrakech, “Where else are all the well underway - confounding the walls and buildings tinted in a rich pastel skeptics who said it could not be done. peach, the broad avenues and promenades Facts About Morocco: lined with rows and rows of orange trees, Courtesy of Habeeb Salloum. with ripe fruit dangling from their branches 1) Nationals of most countries do not like holiday ornaments?” need visas to enter Morocco- only valid Riads of Mogador passports. We stayed an extra few weeks through New 2) If you know French, its is easy to get Years at Essauoira, formerly Mogador. around in Morocco. Everyone speaks Here we were treated to a visit of the French, but many also know English. superb facilities and park-like grounds 3) Unit of currency in Morocco is the at the elegant Dar Mimosas, situated dirham which fluctuates at around 10 to a few miles south of the city. At the 12 to a dollar. Exchange money at banks Médina, inside the walls of a centuries old or hotels - rates are all the same with no Portuguese fortress, a variety of attractive commission. riads offer fine food and accommodation. 4) When traveling in Morocco, trains I was introduced to Les Terrasses are the most comfortable. Buses are d’Essaouira, a luxurious riad which offers a inexpensive - CTM the best. Small autos, scenic view of the bay. with unlimited mileage and fully insured, One of our favorite stops while doing rent for about $50. a day, fully insured. business or shopping is the Riad Al 5) The mass of hustlers which once Africa Travel Magazine 23 THE RIADS OF MARRAKECH ARE EVERYTHING A FINE HOTEL SHOULD BE - AND MUCH MORE by Muguette Goufrani modern communities anywhere, decor, pools and oriental lounges, with upscale shops, famous name spacious bed rooms, cosy fireplaces While I was born in hotels, leafy parks and treed and luxury bathrooms. Want to Morocco and began boulevards. enjoy the fresh air of Southern my career there with Hidden Treasures Morocco and a bird’s eye view of our family’s tour Within the Médina itself you will the exotic surroundings within the company and Royal find several huge doors, which Médina? Each riad provides guests Air Maroc, before like the entrance to Ali Baba’s with access to a roof terrace or working my way cave, open up to reveal what North sundeck. How did we know about around the world, my return as part Africans call a ‘riad.’ During a stop these two attractive riads? We spent of the Africa Travel Association, has in Marrakech enroute to Casablanca, some time learning about them been a true rediscovery. Marrakech we had the pleasure of staying from the general manager herself was ATA’s host city for a Cultural at the Hotel Riad Shama, and - during our weeks at ITB Berlin and Ecotourism Conference in visiting several and the Salon International 1996 and Fez had the same honors others including de Tourism in Paris. After in 2002. As Morocco’s third the Hotel Riad checking in at the Hotel largest city and a bustling center of Oasis. Both are Riad Shama, we took a commerce, Marrakech is high on our operated by the walk through the souk, list as an ideal convention site and same company a huge marketplace with place to visit. The metropolitan area and each has its products and services of comprises the Médina, a walled city unique attractions every description - and built centuries ago as a fortification, - magical Arabian plenty of bargains awaiting surrounded by one of the most architecture and your pleasure. Close by is

24 Africa Travel Magazine THE RIADS OF MARRAKECH ARE EVERYTHING A FINE HOTEL SHOULD BE - AND MUCH MORE Djemaa el Fna, one of the busiest design of these courtyard dwellings on the exterior clay or mud brick market squares in Africa, with in the coastal regions of Morocco walls. Entrance to these houses is snake charmers, acrobats, story- were an adaptation and modification a major transitional experience and tellers, dancers, and musicians. of the Roman villa. When the encourages reflection because all By night, the square turns into an Almoravids conquered Spain in of the rooms open into the central open-air restaurant where traditional the 11th century they sent Muslim, atrium space. In the central garden Moroccan dishes, such as cous cous Christian and Jewish artisans from of traditional riads there are often and tangine are on the menu. Spain to Morocco to work on four orange or lemon trees and What is a Riad? monuments. These artisans brought possibly a fountain. The walls of A traditional Riad is a Moroccan with them the idea of arranging the riads are adorned with tadelakt home or palace, the rooms of the house plaster and zellige tiles. The style which often around the central open-air of these riads has changed over the includes an interior courtyard that has become years, but the basic form is still used garden. The today’s riads. The riads in designs today. Many riads are ancient Roman were inward focused which now used as hotels or restaurants. city of Volubilis, allowed for family privacy Photos from the Riad Shama are on which we visited and protection from the the above page (left) and those from in 2002, during weather in Morocco. This the Riad Oasis are on above page our conference in inward focus was expressed (right). To find out more or to book Fez, provides a in the central location of rooms for yourself or group at either reference for the most of the interior gardens hotel, contact Muguette Goufrani by beginnings of riad and courtyards and the e-mail: [email protected] architecture. The lack of large windows CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE Africa Travel Magazine 25 DESERT ECOTOURS WITH THE BLUE MEN OF MOROCCO INCLUDE LA CHANCE DESERT HOTEL AND EXCITING CAMEL EXCURSIONS

We first met Elena Hall during Merzouga is a poor village that few hours to 6 days into the sand the Africa Travel Association’s has little or nooutside support dunes. Many of their guests are Cultural and Ecotourism Sym- - so tourism is the main source inclined to slow down their pace posium in the Im- and mingle with perical City of Fez, the families, play 1992. Originally with the children from the state of or watch local Maryland, USA, women make Elena has spent bread, tangine and over 15 years cous-cous. bringing visitors to Sharing with Merzouga, a small Berbers village in the Sahara Some guests will Desert of southern offer advice to the Morocco. Recently, Berber men on ag- Elena and her part- riculture, modes of ner Hmad Ourdaras, construction, well a local Berber from digging and other Merzouga, estab- skills. They are lished the Haven La in a completely Chance Desert Hotel different world in to facilitate their many Ecotours. Southern Morocco. Amenities include a restaurant, of income for residents. With the Elena and Hmad travel back and camping, bivouac, camel excur- Blue Men of Morocco, visitors forth regularly from their base in sions and a unique Sahara experi- spend several days or longer if Malaga, Spain and some of the ence amidst the sand dunes and they wish, and can enjoy camel Ourdaras brothers manage the palm trees. excursions in the desert from a business when the partners are 26 Africa Travel Magazine DESERT ECOTOURS WITH THE BLUE MEN OF MOROCCO INCLUDE LA CHANCE DESERT HOTEL AND EXCITING CAMEL EXCURSIONS not in the Moroccan desert. Other Desert Hotel, which generates brothers travel throughout Moroc- employment for locals. The co on and expanded series of tours combination of skills, educa- that may include the Imperial cit- tion and background of Elena ies of Fez, Marrakech, Rabat, Me- and Hmad provides a reli- knes and Casablanca, Essaouira, able, professional tour with no Safi, El Jaddida and other fortified surprises. Close contact with towns along the coast. The travel local Berbers and their way includes the desert treks, moun- of life is a special extra to the tain villages and kasbah routes. rest of the tours. It is important Berbers are unique to make friends and provide Elena has been accepted by the an unforgettable experience local people who were originally into their homes to share meals which entices one to return to nomads but have decided to settle and refreshing mint tea. Guests are Morocco. down in the smaller villages. also welcome at special feasts and Contact information: Other nomads live in the desert weddings where they can watch BLUE MEN OF with their camels or goats and can the rituals, and enjoy the meals like MOROCCO CO. be seen during camel excursions. part of the family. C/Heroes Dos de Mayo 5, H Like many guides who keep in Elena Hall has great respect for Fuengirola, Malaga, Spain regular contact with tourists who these desert people, poor as they Tel. 34 952 467562 travel to Morocco, Hmad speaks may be. She and her partner try to www.haven-la-chance-desert- several languages. help the locals by bringing tourists hotel-merzouga.com Berbers are not Arabic, although to the area. They like to acquaint http://www.bluemenofmoroc- most belong to the Muslim faith. guests with these special Berber co.com The Berber women are seldom people, their humble food, and gen- involved with tourists, but Hmad’s erosity. Profits from tour operations family and friends invite visitors are invested in Haven La Chance Africa Travel Magazine 27 The Medieval Schools which is edged by a large room, meals, slept and studied. Their Morocco’s Intellectual serving both as a lecture hall and lodgings, bread and drinking Heritage a place for prayer. The student water were supplied free, but they by Habeeb Salloum rooms or cells were mostly lo- had to buy their own books and cated on the second level but, in most of their food. Hence, many Called the “Holy City of Mo- a few of the schools, there were were compelled to work part-time rocco‚“ Fez is, above all, noted a number on the first level. as lecturers in mosques or as ser- for its Qarawiyin mosque - the The medersas were all exquisite vants in the homes of the affluent. symbol of the country’s intel- works of art, decorated with The mother of all of Fez’s med- lectual life and its most presti- carved wood, geometric designs ersas is Bou Inania, built in the gious historic site. For more than and floral motifs and lace-like mid 14th century by Sultan Abu eleven hundred years Inan, the first ruler of it has been the haven the Marinid Dynasty. for Islamic scholars Incorporating direct and religious offi- importation of 14th cials. Enhancing this century Andalusian aura of learning are building techniques, medersas (Islamic the school is different schools) which dot than the other med- the city and hug the ersas in that it had Qarawiyin in a lov- an imposing minaret ing embrace. In- and served both as a spired by the schools mosque and a school. in Baghdad, they Its doorways, col- were, in the main, umns, courtyard and built by the Marinid hall are all extrava- sultans, during the gantly decorated with 14th century. As Is- dark cedar, exquisite- lamic colleges with ly carved; floral and lodgings for students geometrical patterns; who came to study, delicate lace-like besides religion, the stucco, toughened Arabic language, with egg white; astronomy, math- marble floors; and ematics and medicine, they were plaster-work. Each one is a ceramic-tiled lower walls covered unequaled, in their time, as places creation of perfect handiwork by in Arabic script with academic of learning. The majority of these master craftsmen. messages - one reading, “This is schools were built in the same Yet, in spite of the ostentatious a place of learning‚”. The whole fashion. Each medersa had two splendor of the buildings, the inside is a stunning combination levels and a central courtyard, students, living two in each of decorative artwork. However, incorporating a fountain, used in cell-like room, led a frugal like the other medersas, its stu- ritual ablutions. A colonnade or life. In these usually damp and dent cells are barren and forlorn. gallery surrounded the courtyard dark rooms, they prepared their It is said that Sultan Abu Inan 28 Africa Travel Magazine built the school to rival the city’s In fame, it comes second to Bou rine square (from the Arabic afar grand Qarawiyin mosque and its Inania. Some claim it is more - brass) where craftsmen hammer The Medieval Schools cost almost broke the treasury. beautiful and delicate, and more metal into huge urns and pots. Because of the great expense, a perfect than that medersa. The medersa still houses some story is told that the Sultan threw It is an incredible structure, with students and is only worth a visit away the account books into the a profusion of fine pattering in if one has time to spare. river saying, “A thing of beauty is blue and white tile, wood and Edging the medersa on the beyond reckoning.” stucco. Verses from the Koran are square, stands a marble fountain, Opposite Medersa Bou Inania, incised in continuous friezes and decorated with a carved fleurs-de- but connected to this school, is are breath-taking in their intri- lis and one side of the Qarawiyin a medieval water clock, consist- cacy. Even though some renova- mosque’s library - one of the ing of 13 windows and platforms tion has been made, basically the most important libraries in the - seven of which still retain their school is in an excellent state of Arab world. brass bowls. High over them on a preservation. Without question, The newest of these medieval carved lintel of cedar is a decay- its graceful proportions, elegant schools is Medersa El Cher- ing row of 13 windows. Forgot- geometrical carved-cedar orna- ratin, built in the 17th century ten for centuries, the clock is mentation and distinctive brass by the Alaouite Sultan, Moulay being renovated and hopefully, in doors make it a living medieval el-Rachid, founder of the present the future, experts will be able to work of art. Moroccan dynasty. Noted for its have it working again. Medersa Shrij is the third finest double bronze-faced doors and The grandest, most elaborate and of the Fez medersas. Erected in fine door knockers, it is much less beautiful of all the Marinid mon- the 14th century, it was named ornate than the medersas built uments, Bou Inania comes close after its beautiful ablution pool by the Marinids. However, as a to perfection in every aspect of its (from the Arabic saharaj - pool). school it is much more function- construction. It is the one historic Noted for its rich carvings and al. Designed to hold more than site not to be missed by travel- its aura of calmness and tranquil- 200 students, it contrasts vividly ers, in fact, it is the only structure ity, it is worth a visit. However, with the intricate craftsmanship still in religious use which non- if one has visited Bou Inania and of the medersas erected during Muslims can enter. Almost every El Attarine, this school does not the earlier Marinid era. first-time tourist in Fez takes a have anything really new to offer. Rarely visited by travelers are photo of Bou Inania’s green-tiled Medersa es Seffarine, con- the few remaining less important minaret through the Boujeloud structed in the 13th century is the schools like Medersa Misbahiya, Gate - the most utilized point of oldest medersa built in Fez. Un- now under renovation. Built in entry into the old walled medi- like the other schools, it is built the 14th century by Sultan Abu eval town into which no auto is like a traditional Fasi (Fez) home Hassan, it is noted for the lavish allowed to enter. and gets its name from the Seffa- use of marble in its construction. The Medersa El Atta- For visitors seeking histori- rine, next door to the cal architectural gems, these Qarawiyin mosque schools have few equals as was built in the 14th relics from the medieval era. century by the Mari- Yesterday, they drew stu- nid Sultan Abu Said. dents from the whole Islamic He built it on the lands; today they draw tour- edge of the spice souk ists from the four corners of - hence, its name, the world. Attarine (from the Arabic air (spices). Africa Travel Magazine 29 by Muguette Goufrani

My father, who owned and oper- ated a tour company in Casablan- ca, Morocco for many years, took me along with a German tour group to visit a traditional “Wed- ding Fair” at Hadiddou Imilchil, a Berber village in southern Mo- rocco. While I knew that many Berber Fairs combine a local Saint’s Day with a regional mar- ket event, only at September’s ‘moussem’ (pilgrimage) of Im- ilchil, have I seen such a colorful pageant, with instant engagement, and a mass exchange of marriage vows. Berbers have inhabited North Africa for centuries, some being of Caucasian ancestry, with fair complexions and blue eyes. Visitors may think of Berbers as exotic outsiders, yet they preced- ed the Arabs in settling Morocco, and they remain the country’s main culture. This is expressed by the phrase, “Morocco is Ber- ber - the roots and the leaves of freedom.” While the Wedding Fair is key part of Berber marital custom, families usually arrange marriag- es in their home village. Women are free to divorce and remarry. At the moussem, divorced and widowed women form the ma- jority, and are identified by their pointed headdress. The courtship is a family affair as I learned after accepting an invitation to drink mint tea in the goat hair tent of a Berber elder. His oldest daughter Malika, prettied up her divorced 18 year old sister Yasmina with traditional beauty aids - rubbing

30 Africa Travel Magazine Berber Wedding Fair at Imilchil saffron colored powder into her the bride-to-be lend advice, often Arab descent), whose ancestors sister’s eyebrows, applying kohl making snap judgment calls at built the mighty Moorish empire to outline her eyes and carmine first sight. If rejection is signaled that once ruled Spain, Portugal rouged to her cheeks. A wool by a broken handclasp, it’s time and most of Northern Africa. cape, striped in tribal colors, to look elsewhere. Most Berbers dwell in the moun- covered her white dress; then When a bride does give consent, tains, while the Arabs and Moors a cone shaped headdress was she may speak the magic phrase,” live on the plain and desert. Most assembled, held on by loops You have captured my liver.” cities have a European section of spangled Since a healthy liver aids di- a Jewish enclave, and a Medina wool. gestion and promotes well- (Arab-Moorish section). Over the I gave Yas- being, in Berber culture it’s past 3,000 years, its geographic mina a silver the liver, not the heart that’s location has given Morocco a chain as a considered the location of strategic importance far beyond wedding gift, true love. Might one say, its small size. The country has since silver “Darling, my liver pines for taken the best from the Phoeni- brings good you?” Often snowbound be- cians, Romans, Arabs, Berbers, luck. Many hind village walls for up to Portuguese, Spanish and French. Westerners six months a year, the new think that couples must learn to live Letter from a reader Moroccans in harmony. Despite those purchase their wives at the fair, old Foreign Legion movies from Dear Muguette, but in truth, marriage depends the 50s, which showed Berbers Since I read your article about on mutual consent and family as being fierce, hot tempered and Morocco, we took a group of approval. warlike, they believe in “paix African American Female edu- A nod and a wink: The language chez eux” (peace at home). cators there last year and had a of gesture is as clearly under- Moroccan food wonderful time. Hope to take a stood by these people as the Who wouldn’t enjoy steamed group again next year. Briefly, the spoken word. By having a friend semolina, topped with a meat and experience was wonderful. We help him choose a bride (with vegetable sauce called couscous? spent most of our time in Agadir often no more than a silhouette Or tajines. a vegetable stew that with a one night excursion to and two dark eyes as a clue) the may contain rabbit, lamb, goat Marrakech. We stayed at Club groom gets overcomes his shy- and chicken meat, combined with Valtur and the resort was great, ness. All day long, in pairs, these prunes, apricots or raisins. Pas- albeit very Italian. I didn’t learn men weave in and out amongst a tilla (baked pigeon pie) is made much about the people or culture cluster of anxious brides. Then, of layered filo pastry, with nuts of Morocco, hence the need for a welcomed by a shy glance or a and spices, and coated with sugar. second trip. However, I did make quick nod, the suitor will stop to With your morning coffee, try a a few friends (smile). Morocco is speak to the lady, encouraged by light deep fried Spanish dough- a fascinating if you love sensory a signal from his friend’s reas- nut, we call sfinj, or cornes de experiences or sensory overload!! suring hand. gazelle pastries. The experience started as soon as Once this happens, the newly History and culture we boarded the Royal Air Ma- acquainted boy and girl unite, Most of the 27 million Moroc- roc flight, and continued for the holding hands as a sign of intent. cans are Berbers, Arabs or Moors entire trip. I’ll never forget the Male relatives who accompany (people of mixed Berber and Africa Travel Magazine 31 32 Africa Travel Magazine Night in the Berber Gites by Karen Hoffman of their flat-roofed homes. Built to spend a night under the stars in into the mountain slopes, these one of the many mountain sheep- Our one-day adventure began house fit into each other. Al- folds (AZIB), but in winter it is in Marrakech; an enchanting though the summit of this moun- advisable to pitch a tent. walled city at the foot of the Atlas tain was Toubkal, at 4167m, our “The Great Trek Through the Mountains. We drove about 48 destination was the tiny village of Moroccan Atlas”, a brochure km into the mountain foothills to Aremd. As the group arrived, we distributed by the Moroccan Imlil, a charming hamlet which were greeted with National Tourist Office, was the starting point of our trek. a loud fanfare of is a detailed guide full We were welcomed by the villag- Berber horns. of practical information, ers with mint tea and a delicious On the terrace, we including local customs array of Moroccan pastries. The were able to relax and the environment. mountain guides gave a briefing and appreciate the This is an excellent on the area, and on the culture dramatic mountain example of how govern- and tradition of its inhabitants, panorama before ment tourist boards can the Berbers (“Chleuhs”). Moroc- us. Rested, we encourage responsible co is a land of mountains which were invited to tourism by reminding cover an area of 100,000 square feast on a seem- visitors to respect the kilometres. The High Atlas alone ingly endless environment and an- cover more than 700 square ki- array of traditional cestral traditions of the lometres, with a dozen summits dishes made of local population. exceeding 4000m and more than couscous, lamb Luxurious antidote to 400 reaching 3000m. and chicken. Our adventure: A secretive Trekking on foot and on skis “digestive”was the return trek to hideaway are popular mountain sports in Imlil, once again taking in the In Palmeraie, a lovely suburb of Morocco. The summits are eas- peaceful scenery and fresh moun- Marrakech, hidden in a park full ily accessible, with a good net- tain air. of bougainvillea, rose bushes work of mule tracks. The peaks For those unable to make the trek and jasmine, is an exquisite, new are permanently snow-capped, on foot, Aremd is also accessible ‘Palais”. Completed a few years but there is a mild climate with by four-wheel drive vehicles. And ago as a private residence, the sunshine most of the year. But it for visitors who prefer a more owners recently decided to open is the opportunity to explore less challenging mountain experience, it to guests as an exclusive villa frequented areas and interact with you can arrange overnight treks, and “hideaway” an extremely hospitable local staying in one of three types of The architecture, a magnificent population that make the Atlas accommodation: mountain inns, blend of Greco-Roman and ori- particularly attractive to hikers. mountain refuges (cabins built ental styles, maximizes the use Our trek was an easy 60-90 by the French) and Gites, over- of natural light. A double row of minute hike up a winding path night stays in the homes of local majestic columns, together with which we shared with cargo-bear- people. Many GITES are classi- the five guest rooms and two ing mules. Each turn revealed fied according to the amenities suites, gracefully form a semi- a breathtaking vista. One could and facilities available (toilets, circle around the Hollywood- only envy the views enjoyed by running water, shower, bedrooms, style swimming pool. these villagers from the terraces kitchen terrace) Another option is Already discovered by jet-set Africa Travel Magazine 33 come and gone. Phoenicians, ley are blended with the spices: Greeks, Romans, Arab’s, Span- aniseed, cayenne, cinnamon, MOROCCO’S ish Muslims, and the Berbers, the cumin, ginger, paprika, pep- original inhabitants of the coun- per, saffron, turmeric and ras try, all had their day. They ruled el-hanout (a blend of spices) to the country for awhile then faded produce mouth-watering dishes. VEGETABLE To give these non-meat creations into history. Their cuisines, with a touch of Portuguese, Turkish and even more zest, onions, olives, Jewish influences, helped in the pickled lemons, almonds and FOODS creation of the modern Moroccan. sesame seeds are utilized exten- by Habeeb Salloum Well-known culinary experts sively. have written that great food and Soups, the mainstay of the poorer No one who has enjoyed cous- glorious civilizations complement peasants and at times their only cous, the national dish of Mo- each other. They go on to say that meal of the day, are based mostly rocco, in all its meat varieties, what creates a noteworthy cuisine on chickpeas and lentils. Infused will dream that in many peas- are: abundance of ingredients; with herbs and spices, they be- ant homes this delicacy outside influ- come delightful creations. The is prepared solely from ences; a noble most widely prepared of these vegetables and semolina. civilization; soups is harira - the ultimate of These toilers of the soil and refined Moroccan soups. In the cities, the who never taste meat for palace life. wealthy, in addition to the veg- weeks at a time prepare, Hence, in the etables, utilize all types of meat not only their couscous, elegant palaces to create their mouth-watering but almost all their dishes of the rich in hariras. Yet, the peasants’ meat- from grain and veg- Fez and Mar- less hariras are a match for any of etables. With the right rakesh where these soups.. amount of herbs and spic- the great Arab- Moroccan salads differ to some es they create incredibly Islamic civili- extent from the usual well-known tasty meals, forming an zation of Spain had its greatest salads. They are, in most cases, important part of the Moroccan impact, the culinary art of Moroc- prepared from cooked vegetables kitchen - a cuisine with an illus- co reached its epitome of perfec- and are somewhat zesty but not trious history. A great number of tion. Paula Wolfert in her book, spicy hot. In the homes of the the Moroccans firmly believe that Couscous and the Other Good affluent, they are served at the no other country’s culinary art Foods From Morocco, writes that beginning of the meal as appetiz- has reached the exalted heights Moroccan cooking is the last of ers. However, for the poor, like of their cooking. A number of the great undiscovered cuisines. the soups, they are usually the travellers support this assess- Included in this relatively un- main course. ment, stating that if the food of known kitchen with a distin- As to stews, the Moroccan this North African country is not guished past are the tasty dishes kitchen would be much poorer the greatest in the world, it stands of the workers and peasants. In without the delectable vegetable near the top as one of the world’s their daily Menues, little meat tajines. Fragrant, zesty, spicy or eminent cuisines. is utilized. The grains and veg- sweet, they are always delicious Ethnic Variety etables are combined with numer- and inviting. Simmered to pro- In that spellbinding land with its ous herbs and spices to produce duce tasty sauces, their enticing long sandy coasts, rich plains, savory and satisfying meals. aromas, as they cook, makes even towering mountains , and endless The herbs: chervil, garlic, fresh the one who has just eaten yearn deserts, many civilizations have coriander leaves, mint and pars- to sample the simmering dish. 34 Africa Travel Magazine at the end of diffas (great feasts) Perhaps, more than any other Spain. to satiate the hunger of guests. food, couscous, Morocco’s na- With an illustrious background Hence, complying with Arab tional dish, is cooked by the and centuries of evolvement, hospitality that ‘no guest can go peasants solely from vegetables. Moroccan cuisine has made for home hungry’. A Berber dish embellished by the itself a notch in the cooking of For sweets, the Moroccans are Arabs and Spanish Muslims, it the world. In all strata of society, known for their creations based is prepared in endless varieties. the housewife prepares her dishes on honey, almonds, sugar and Pleasing to the eye, it is served so perfectly that it is considered flaky dough. The honey and al- on a platter and the couscous is vulgar to place salt on the table. monds have always been utilized heaped pyramid style with a hol- Usually, she keeps secret her own in Moroccan pastry. The sugar low on top which is filled with recipes and improves them with and flaky dough were introduced the stew. Known as the king of the passing years until they reach by the Arabs to North Africa and the Moroccan kitchen, it is served perfection. For one visiting Morocco there is not much chance to try these home-cooked meals. Nevertheless, travellers should not leave the country without having a meal in restaurants set in a converted Moorish- Andalusian palace which are to be found in every large city. Here, with haunting Arab mu- sic as a background, one can enjoy a sumptuous Moroccan repast which always includes a number of tempting vegetarian dishes. Such a meal will leave with most visitors, when they return to their native lands, a deep nostalgia for that coun- try’s food . On the other hand, if a person cannot journey to the enchant- ing and fascinating land of the Moors, these few vegetarian foods will give an insight into their great cuisine. VEGETABLE HARIRA Serves about 12 5 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium sized onions, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves 1 small hot pepper, finely Africa Travel Magazine 35 chopped adding more water if necessary. lemon slices and olives evenly 1 cup lentils, soaked overnight In the meantime, in a frying pan, overtop, then re-cover and bake 2 cups cooked chickpeas heat oil, then sauté onions over for a further 10 minutes. Serve 2 cups stewed tomatoes medium heat for 15 minutes. Add hot from the casserole. 8 cups water garlic, coriander leaves and hot VEGETABLE COUSCOUS 3 teaspoons salt pepper, then stir-fry for further 5 Serves about 12 2 teaspoons ginger minutes. Add frying pan contents A couscousiere is needed for this 1 teaspoon paprika and remaining ingredients to recipe. However if one is not 1 teaspoon pepper beans, then bring to boil, adding available a double boiler with a 1 teaspoon cumin more water if necessary. Re- perforated top may be substituted. 1 teaspoon turmeric cover, then cook for 30 minutes, 2 cups couscous 1/4 cup rice adding a little more water if nec- 5 tablespoons butter, melted 4 tablespoons lemon juice essary. Stir in lemon juice, then 4 tablespoons cooking oil serve hot or cold. 1 large onion, chopped In a large saucepan, heat oil, then VEGETABLE TAJINE 4 cloves garlic, crushed sauté onions over medium heat Serves 6 to 8 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cori- for 10 minutes. Add garlic, cori- 4 tablespoons butter ander leaves ander leaves and hot pepper, then 2 medium onions, chopped 1 hot pepper, finely chopped stir-fry for a further 5 minutes. 4 cloves garlic crushed 1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml), Stir in remaining ingredients, 4 tablespoons finely chopped with its water except the lemon juice, then bring fresh coriander leaves 2 cups stewed tomatoes to a boil. Cover and cook over 1 small hot pepper, finely 1/2 cup lentils medium heat for 35 minutes or chopped 2 medium carrots, scraped and until the rice and lentils are well 4 medium potatoes, peeled, the quartered, then cut lengthwise done, adding more water if neces- sliced into l/4 inch thick slices into 2 inch long pieces sary or if a more liquid soup is 2 medium sized carrots, scraped, 2 medium parsnips, peeled and desired. Stir in lemon juice, then then cut into thin rounds quartered, then cut lengthwise serve. 1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml), into 2 inch long pieces BROAD BEAN PURÉE - with its water 2 medium sized potatoes, peeled BIESAR Serves about 8 2 cups stewed tomatoes and diced into 1 inch cubes 2 cups large dried broad beans, 1 teaspoon salt 1 small turnip, about 3 inch in soaked for 24 hours, then skinned 1 teaspoon ginger diameter, peeled and diced into 1 5 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 teaspoon pepper inch cubes 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon cumin 1/4 cup raisins 4 tablespoons olive oil pinch of saffron 3 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 lemon, quartered, then sliced 1 teaspoon pepper 1 1/2 teaspoons salt into thin slices 1 teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon oregano 1/2 cup pitted green olives 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon thyme In a casserole, melt butter, then 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1/8 teaspoon cayenne sauté onions, garlic, coriander pinch of saffron 1/2 teaspoon paprika leaves and hot pepper over me- 6 cups water In a pot, place broad beans, garlic dium heat for 10 minutes. Stir 1 teaspoon paprika and cumin, then cover with water in remaining ingredients, except 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds and bring to boil. Cover sauce- the lemon slices and olives, then Place couscous and butter in a pan, then cook over medium heat place in a 3500 F preheated oven, bowl, then thoroughly mix until for 50 minutes or until beans are then cover and bake for 1 hour, or all kernels are coated. Place in cooked. Drain, but reserve the until vegetables are cooked. Place top part of the couscousiere, then

36 Africa Travel Magazine set aside. ing sauce in a gravy bowl and In the bottom part of the couscou- remaining vegetables in a sepa- siere, heat oil, then sauté onion, rate bowl. garlic, coriander leaves and hot Habeeb Salloum pepper over medium heat for 10 58 Langbourne Place minutes. Add remaining ingredi- Don Mills, Ontario, Canada M3B ents, except paprika, and sesame 1A9 seeds, and bring to a boil, then fit Tel: 416/445-4558, Fax: 416/510- the top part of the couscous filled 2143 couscousiere with the couscous E-mail: habeeb.salloum@sym- on the bottom part and seal the patico.ca two parts together with a piece of cloth impregnated with flour. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring couscous once in a while to make sure no lumps are formed, then slowly sprinkle, while constantly stirring, a cup of water over couscous. Cook for further 30 minutes, continuing to stir couscous every few minutes. Remove top part of the couscous- iere and ensure the vegetables are cooked. If not, cook for further few minutes. Place couscous on a large serving platter, pyramid shape, then make well on top. Place cooked vege- tables with a little of the sauce in the well, then decorate couscous with paprika and sesame seeds. Serve immediately with remain-

Africa Travel Magazine 37 MOROCCAN TRAVEL MARKET, MARRAKECH 2010 INTERNATIONAL FAIR FOR TOURISM PROFESSIONALS January 14-17, 2010 country as a whole. Where else ing adding an undeniable feeling will be here soon. Make are all the walls and buildings of the past. Marrakech is now plans now! tinted in a rich pastel pink, the something of a Moroccan tourism broad avenues and promenades Mecca and is home to the south’s About Marrakech lined with rows and rows of or- premier souq (market). by Muguette Goufrani ange trees with ripe fruit dangling Founded almost 1,000 years We have known what a great from their branches like holiday ago, the character of Marrakech host city Marrakech is since we ornaments? In recent years and remains quite unchanged, being were part of the Africa Travel from our magazine’s new base hot, full of energy and somewhat Association’s 3rd Cultural and in Morocco, we managed to visit African. However, the city of Ecotourism Symposium in 1996 a and photograph a wide cross today has been greatly influenced at Le Palais du Congrès, one year section the city’s of riads and by arriving Europeans and fea- after Africa Travel Magazine was hotels, in order to give our read- tures outdoor swimming pools, founded. Born in Morocco, edu- ers an idea of the choice available mountain parties, and street cafes, cated here and having traveled for all price ranges. The follow- as well as Moroccan palaces, much of the country with my fa- ing are comments from Morocco mosques and kasbahs, spread ther, one of Morocco’s major tour Tourism: Serving as the capital around the Medina and its centre operators, I knew about Marrake- of southern Morocco, the city of Djemaa El Fna square. For the ch, its reputation and amazing Marrakech is one of the country’s latest in Marrakech tourist in- potential for tourism. Today, 14 most visited and this colorful oa- formation, head to the New City years later, that statement is borne sis retains a rather exotic flavour, (Ville Nouvelle) and pay a visit out by outstanding growth in with some 16 km / 10 miles of to the Office National Marocain the city’s tourism sector and the mid-brick ramparts still stand- du Tourism (ONMT). Morocco and Africa are developing their own tourism event, the Moroccan Travel Market (MTM), the Inter- national Tourism Fair dedicated to industry professionals, which will take place from 14 to 17 January 2010 in Marrakech. An International Event, MTM’s first edition in 2008 brought together tourism professionals from over 20 countries; with 230 exhibitors, 8689 visitors and 120 38 Africa Travel Magazine New higher resolution photos and maps to be added. Text to receive final editing before pub- lication.

MOROCCAN TRAVEL MARKET, MARRAKECH 2010 INTERNATIONAL FAIR FOR TOURISM PROFESSIONALS foreign journalists who took part information and accommodation to tourism professionals in the in the inaugural event, which has visit http://www.mtm.ma/Home_ region, this is confirmed by the been unanimously described as a a71.html international echo which it had master piece. Why Exhibit at MTM? that by the trust and the loyalty of An excellent business platform, A single quote summarizes the the participants. Indeed, 97 % of the fair is the ideal opportunity satisfaction of the participants to the exhibitors renew their partici- for all Moroccan and foreign the Moroccan Travel Market, that pations to the second edition and tourism professionals to expose of a Tour Operator who addressed the majority of exhibitors double their products and services and the organizers: “What has been their spaces of exhibition. This meet fellow professionals, deci- noted here far exceeds what we trust is a strong signal expressed sion makers and buyers from generally expect at some shows by satisfied professionals. around the world. Enjoying its that are more internationally fa- Exhibiting at the Moroccan Trav- strategic geographical situa- mous. Morocco gave evident that el Market it is benefiting from the tion, between Europe and Africa, it can organize its own event and contribution of an integral event: Morocco, through the Moroc- succeed.” • Business and development op- can Travel Market, is becoming In one edition, The MTM became portunities for your company the vector of development of the the first Travel Fair dedicated • Fruitful and beneficial meetings North-South exchanges. For fill • Professional visitors and deci- sion-maker • A rich and diverse program in a friendly atmosphere • A meeting space for profession- als to promote destinations MTM offers you the possibility to: • Materialise commercial oppor- tunities and finalise partnership agreements • Follow new market trends and stay up-to-date • Promote your offering to the leaders of the industry • Boost your image and stress your positioning

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